Care

Why loosen

Loosening serves several purposes:

• Eliminating weeds at early stages of their development
• Improving soil aeration
• Retaining moisture by breaking the capillaries through which water rises to the surface and evaporates
• Facilitating the penetration of rainwater and irrigation water deeper

How to do it correctly

The depth of loosening depends on the age of the tree:

• For young trees (first 3–4 years), the soil is loosened to a depth of 10–15 cm, taking care not to damage superficial roots
• For mature fruiting trees, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5–10 cm, since most absorbing roots are located in the topsoil

It is important to remember that excessive loosening can be harmful. Research shows that with continuous soil tillage (for example, monthly loosening during the growing season), the organic matter content in the topsoil decreases significantly, whereas with mulching or sodding it is preserved and even increases (Merwin et al., 1994). Loosening should not turn into deep digging — that damages soil structure and injures roots.

Timing

• Early spring — after snowmelt and when the soil dries out, to seal in moisture and destroy the first weed seedlings
• During the growing season — as weeds appear and a crust forms on the soil surface
• Autumn — shallow loosening after harvest

What is mulching

Mulching is the covering of the soil surface with a layer of organic or inorganic material. It is one of the most effective techniques for trunk circle care, especially in organic horticulture (Phillips, 2005).

Types of mulch

Organic mulch:

• Compost
• Rotted sawdust and wood shavings
• Straw and hay
• Bark and wood chips
• Leaf litter
• Mown grass

Inorganic mulch:

• Black polyethylene film
• Non-woven cover fabric (agrotextile)
• Stones, gravel

For apple trees, organic mulch is considered most effective. Bark and wood chips are particularly good — they decompose slowly, do not attract rodents, and create a favourable environment for beneficial soil microflora (Phillips, 2005).

How to mulch correctly

1. Preparation — before applying mulch, remove weeds and loosen the soil

2. Watering — if the soil is dry, be sure to water the tree before mulching

3. Mulch layer — the optimal thickness is 5–10 cm (2–4 inches). A thinner layer will not effectively suppress weeds, while a layer that is too thick may impede air access to the roots

4. Gap from the trunk — it is important to leave free space around the trunk (5–10 cm) to avoid bark rot and attraction of rodents

Benefits of mulching

• Suppression of weed growth
• Moisture retention — mulch reduces evaporation
• Temperature moderation — soil overheats less in summer and freezes more slowly in winter
• Improvement of soil structure as organic mulch decomposes
• Gradual enrichment of soil with nutrients
• Reduction of soil erosion

Possible problems and solutions

Despite all its advantages, mulching has drawbacks that are important to know (Merwin, 2003):

• Attraction of rodents — especially if mulch lies right against the trunk. Solution: leave free space around the stem and use mechanical protective netting
• Excessive moisture — on heavy soils, mulch can contribute to waterlogging and root rot. Solution: on such soils, use a thinner mulch layer and monitor drainage
• Delayed soil warming in spring — this may delay the start of vegetation. For cold regions this can even be an advantage, as it postpones flowering and reduces the risk of frost damage to blossoms
• Increased risk of fungal diseases — if mulch accumulates moisture around the stem. Solution: keep mulch away from the trunk and aerate the trunk circle

Black fallow

This is a system where the soil in the trunk circle and between rows is kept free of weeds and loose. Formerly the main method, it is gradually being abandoned in modern horticulture.

Advantages:

• No competition from weeds for water and nutrients
• Enhanced tree growth at a young age (Potapov et al., 2000)

Disadvantages:

• Destruction of soil structure, decrease in organic matter content
• Increased water erosion, especially on slopes
• Higher irrigation demand due to rapid evaporation from the surface
• Need for frequent tillage

Sodding (sward–humus system)

Under this system, perennial grasses are sown between rows, while the trunk strips are left fallow or mulched. In a home garden, natural sodding with regular mowing is acceptable.

Advantages:

• Prevention of soil erosion
• Improvement of soil structure and fertility due to decomposition of grass root residues
• Reduction of tillage costs

Disadvantages:

• Competition between grass and the tree for moisture and nutrients (Agustí, 2010)
• Particularly dangerous for young orchards in arid regions

Important recommendation: in arid regions, especially for trees on dwarf rootstocks with shallow root systems, sodding can be detrimental. It is permissible only with regular irrigation.

Optimal system for the home garden

For the amateur gardener, the most practical solution is a combination: mulched trunk circle + sodding between rows with regular mowing (Merwin, 2003).

The width of the mulched strip should be at least 1–1.5 m (for young trees) or up to the crown projection (for mature trees). Mulch suppresses weeds, while grass between rows protects the soil from erosion and improves its structure.

Why weeds are dangerous

Weeds in the trunk circle:

• Compete with the apple tree for water — especially critical during drought
• Compete for nitrogen and other nutrients (Agustí, 2010; Jackson, 2003)
• Create a favourable environment for pests and diseases
• Hinder air access to roots and impair aeration

Control methods

1. Hand weeding — the safest and most environmentally friendly method. Best done after rain or watering, when weeds are easily pulled out with roots. Removing weeds at a young age (before seed formation) significantly reduces future infestation.

2. Regular mowing — effective for controlling weeds between rows. As Michael Phillips notes in his book "The Apple Grower" (2005), mowing grass should not be too low or too frequent. The optimal approach is to mow when grass reaches 15–20 cm, leaving a height of 5–7 cm. This encourages denser turf, which itself suppresses many weeds.

3. Mulching — especially effective in combination with cover materials (agrotextile, black film). Under dark cover, weeds receive no light and do not develop.

4. Periodic loosening — mechanical destruction of weeds at early growth stages.

Special features of perennial weed control

Perennial rhizomatous weeds — couch grass, sow thistle, bindweed — require special attention. They are difficult to remove completely in one go. For effective control:

• Carefully pick out all rhizomes during digging
• Regularly remove emerging shoots — exhausting the root system is one of the most reliable methods (Potapov et al., 2000)
• Use dense mulching (layer 10–15 cm) or black agrotextile — perennial weeds cannot penetrate such a covering

1. Improving fruit size and quality

The apple tree sets far more flowers and fruitlets than it can "feed" to full maturity. As a result, the tree distributes its limited resources among all the fruit, and each gets too little. The consequence — apples grow small, insufficiently sweet, and poorly coloured.

Studies show that with timely thinning, fruit size increases several times. For example, in the variety Miller’s Seedling, fruits on thinned trees were four times heavier than on unthinned ones (Denne, 1960, cited in Jackson, 2003). The reason is that early removal of some fruitlets directs nutrients to the remaining fruit, increasing both the number of cells in the flesh and their size (Jackson, 2003).

The earlier thinning is done, the greater the effect. If carried out before the onset of active fruit growth (at the "walnut" stage), the remaining fruitlets complete a full cycle of cell division and reach the maximum possible size for that variety (Phillips, 2005).

2. Preventing biennial bearing

Biennial (or alternate) bearing is a scourge of many apple varieties. The tree gives a heavy crop one year ("on-year") and almost none the next ("off-year"). The mechanism of this phenomenon is linked to hormonal changes caused by overcropping.

Excessive fruitlets stimulate the production of gibberellins in developing seeds. These hormones, on the one hand, promote fruit growth, but on the other, suppress the formation of flower buds for the next year (Luckwill, 1974; Jackson, 2003). The tree "throws all its strength" into the current crop, and the future is ensured only if some energy remains for bud formation.

Thinning within a month after flowering (usually in May–June) breaks this vicious circle: gibberellin production decreases, and the tree has time to set enough flower buds for next year’s crop (Phillips, 2005). Thus, thinning is not just "quality improvement" but an investment in next season's harvest.

3. Conserving tree vigour and health

An overcropped tree expends enormous energy on ripening fruit. Besides producing the fruit themselves, it must form seeds, synthesise sugars, and support cell growth. As a result:

• Shoot growth weakens (annual increment length decreases)
• Root system development deteriorates
• Resistance to pests and diseases declines
• The tree overwinters less well because it fails to accumulate sufficient nutrient reserves and harden off before cold weather (Potapov et al., 2000)

Regulating the crop load balances the burden, and the tree remains strong, able to withstand adverse factors.

4. Disease and pest prevention

Fruits growing too closely touch each other. In the contact areas, high humidity develops, favouring fungal diseases (fruit rot, moniliosis). Moreover, many pests move more easily from one fruit to another when they are densely packed. Thinning creates air gaps between fruits, improving ventilation and reducing the risk of infection spread (Phillips, 2005).

First timing — after natural drop (physiological June drop)

About 2–3 weeks after flowering (late May – early June in temperate zones), some fruitlets drop naturally. This is natural selection: the tree sheds the weakest, damaged, or poorly pollinated fruits. It is best to thin immediately after this natural drop has finished, i.e., when the remaining fruitlets are about 1–1.5 cm in diameter (Phillips, 2005). At this point, it is already clear which fruit are strong and viable and which are not.

Why this is important: if thinning is done earlier, you may accidentally remove fruit that would have remained after natural drop and lose part of the crop. If later, the effect on fruit size will be smaller because cell division in the flesh will have almost finished (Jackson, 2003).

Second timing — before the start of intensive fruit growth

Later thinning (at the stage when fruit reaches the size of a walnut, 2–2.5 cm) is still beneficial, but the effect on size is already lower. However, even then it helps prevent overloading and promotes flower bud formation for the next year (Phillips, 2005). If the gardener missed the first timing for some reason, it is better to thin later than not at all.

Important: thinning is pointless if done after fruit has begun to swell intensively (mid-July and later) — by then the removed fruits have already taken many nutrients, and the remaining ones will not significantly increase in size due to completed cell division.

1. Assess the overall crop load of the tree

Before starting, inspect the tree as a whole. If flowering and fruit set were abundant (as is most often the case), be prepared to remove from 50 to 80 % of the fruitlets (Phillips, 2005). Do not be alarmed — the remaining fruit will be larger, and the total weight of the crop may even be greater than without thinning.

2. Leave one, at most two, fruits per inflorescence

Apple trees flower in corymbs, usually with 5–6 flowers. The central flower (the so‑called "king bloom") opens first and produces the largest and highest‑quality fruit. Therefore, in each inflorescence it is preferable to leave the central fruitlet and remove all lateral ones (Agustí, 2010). If the central fruitlet is damaged or weak, leave the strongest lateral one, but no more than one fruit per inflorescence.

An exception may be made for small‑fruited varieties (e.g., crab apples) or in years with very light flowering, when two fruits per inflorescence may be left on strong branches.

3. Maintain spacing between fruits

Most guides recommend leaving fruits spaced 10–15 cm apart on a branch (Cornell Guide, 2003; Phillips, 2005). For large‑fruited varieties (e.g., Granny Smith, Fuji), the spacing may be greater — up to 20 cm. For small‑fruited ones, slightly less (8–10 cm).

How to measure: do not rely on a ruler; use the size of an adult palm. The distance from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the little finger (15–20 cm) is a good visual guide.

4. Remove first those fruits showing signs of problems

When thinning, follow these criteria:

• Damaged — with punctures, scratches, insect bites
• Misshapen — ugly, asymmetrical
• Weak and small — lagging in development compared to neighbours
• Growing downward or into the centre of the crown — where they will be shaded and poorly coloured

Leave the largest, healthiest, and well‑positioned fruitlets.

5. Use the correct technique

The fastest and most effective method for most varieties is to pinch the pedicel with the nails of thumb and forefinger, squeezing it at the base (Phillips, 2005). The fruit should separate cleanly without tearing wood. You can also use secateurs, but that is slower.

For some varieties with very short pedicels (e.g., Redfree), small scissors are more convenient (Phillips, 2005). The main thing is not to damage the remaining fruitlet and not to break the fruiting spur on which it grows. Hold the spur with one hand, and remove the fruitlet with the other.

Important: do not pull the fruit downward or upward so as not to damage remaining fruits or pull out the spur. A gentle twisting motion helps cleanly separate the pedicel.

6. Start from the top of the crown

Experienced gardeners advise working from top to bottom. This prevents missing shaded inner sections and avoids trampling under already thinned branches (Phillips, 2005). Use a stable ladder or garden platform. Wear gloves — they protect your hands and provide a better grip.

When and why

In autumn, after leaf fall, and in early spring, before bud swell, is the optimal time for cleaning. Purpose: to remove dead, cracked bark, lichens and mosses, and to destroy overwintering stages of pests.

Studies show that under old bark, up to 60–70 % of the apple tree pest population overwinters, including aphid eggs, codling moth cocoons, and scale insect larvae (Krivko, 2014). Cleaning is the most environmentally friendly way to reduce their numbers without chemicals.

How to clean correctly

1. Spread a film, burlap, or thick fabric under the tree. This is to collect all scraped‑off particles — they contain pests and pathogens. After work, gather the film and burn its contents (Potapov et al., 2000).

2. Use the right tools: Metal brushes and scrapers with sharp edges are unsuitable — they injure healthy bark. Better to use:

• A wooden scraper or a blunt (not sharp!) chisel
• A stiff‑bristled brush (e.g., horsehair)
• As a last resort, an old knife with a blunted blade

It is important to work with longitudinal strokes (top to bottom), not circular, so as not to damage the ring flow of sap.

3. Remove only dead parts: Dead bark easily peels off, has a dark colour and cracks. Healthy bark adheres tightly, is smooth or has characteristic longitudinal cracks, but does not peel. Do not try to make the trunk perfectly smooth — small irregularities are acceptable; the main thing is to remove everything that peels off.

4. Do not clean young trees: Seedlings and trees up to 5–6 years have smooth bark; cleaning is not required. Removing living tissue from young trees can cause serious wounds and retard growth.

5. Treat wounds after cleaning: If healthy areas were damaged during cleaning, or cracks were found, they should be cleaned back to healthy wood, disinfected, and covered with grafting wax. For disinfection, you can use a 3% solution of copper sulfate or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

What to do with lichens

Lichens on apple bark are not parasites; they do not feed on tree sap. But their accumulations create a moist environment under which rot pathogens can develop. In addition, they hinder air access to the bark.

Lichens can be removed by careful scraping with a wooden scraper. More effective is spraying with a 5–7% solution of iron sulfate in late autumn (when the tree is dormant). This product does not harm the tree and simultaneously destroys fungal spores on the bark (Potapov et al., 2000).

Why whitewash an apple tree

The main function of whitewashing is protection of bark from sunburn and frost cracks. In late winter – early spring, sunlight heats the dark bark on the south and south‑west sides of the trunk. During the day, tissues thaw, and at night, with a sharp drop in temperature, they freeze. This damages cambial cells and creates longitudinal cracks (frost cracks). A white surface reflects sunlight, the bark heats less, and temperature fluctuations become less severe (Phillips, 2005).

Additional functions of whitewashing:

• Destruction of some pests and fungal spores overwintering in bark cracks (lime has fungicidal and insecticidal properties)
• Protection from hares and mice — the bitter taste of lime repels rodents
• Disinfection of wounds and cracks (when copper sulfate is added)

When to whitewash

The best time is late autumn (November), after leaf fall, when temperatures are consistently above zero but there is no rain. Autumn whitewashing protects the tree from winter sunburn and frost cracks.

Spring whitewashing (in March) is also beneficial, but it does not prevent winter damage. However, it protects against spring overheating and disinfects the bark. The ideal option is to whitewash twice a year: in autumn and early spring (before bud break).

Important: Whitewashing in midsummer (in heat) is useless and even harmful, as lime can clog lenticels and impair bark respiration.

How to prepare the mixture

Classic whitewash is lime milk. But it is better to use a more durable composition that is not washed off by rain:

Recipe for whitewash:

• 2 kg of freshly slaked lime (or 1.5 kg of hydrated lime)
• 1 kg of clay (for viscosity and adhesion)
• 300–400 g of copper sulfate (for disinfection)
• 8–10 L of water
• You may add 1 glass of skimmed milk or wallpaper paste (100 g) for better adhesion

All components are thoroughly mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. The mixture should adhere well to the bark and not run off.

Garden centres sell ready‑made water‑based paints for tree whitewashing — they are convenient and durable. Choose those containing fungicidal additives.

How to whitewash correctly

1. Whitewash the trunk from the ground to the first scaffold branches (at least 1.5–2 m high). Also cover the bases of the scaffold branches for 15–20 cm from the trunk — these are the areas at greatest risk of burns.

2. Apply in 2–3 layers with a brush or roller. The first layer is thinner, to fill small cracks. After drying, apply a second, thicker layer. Ideally, the coating thickness should be 2–3 mm.

3. Do not whitewash young trees (under 3 years) with smooth bark — lime can clog lenticels and impair gas exchange. For such trees, there are special "gentle" whitewashes based on acrylic paints with fine‑particle fillers, or they can be left unwhitewashed and instead shaded on the south side with any available method (white cloth, screen).

4. Renew the whitewash in spring (March) if the autumn application has washed off or lost its whiteness.

Remember: whitewashing does not replace wound care! All cracks, frost cracks, and wounds must first be treated (cleaned, disinfected, covered with grafting wax), and then whitewashed over.

3.1. Protection from rodents (hares, mice, voles)

In winter, when food is scarce, hares and voles gnaw the bark of apple trees, sometimes ring‑barking, which leads to the death of the tree above the damaged area. Voles are especially dangerous; they can tunnel under snow and gnaw bark at the root collar.

Protection measures:

1. Mechanical protection — the most reliable method:

• Wrap the trunk with small‑mesh metal netting (1×1 cm mesh) to a height of at least 1 m from the ground. Bury the netting 10–15 cm into the soil to prevent mice from burrowing underneath.
• Use plastic spiral protective sleeves (available at garden centres) — they fit snugly around the trunk, protect against rodents and also against sunburn. Be sure to remove them in spring to prevent moisture accumulation and disease development underneath.
• Wrapping with spruce branches (needles downward) — an old but effective method. Spruce branches not only protect the bark but also repel rodents by smell.

2. Agronomic measures:

• In autumn, before frost, thoroughly mow and remove all grass in the trunk circle — mice nest in dense grass.
• Compact snow around the trunk in winter — dense snow prevents mice from making tunnels.
• Regularly check the condition of protection, especially after snowfalls.

3. Repellents:

• Special repellents (based on natural oils) — applied to the bark in autumn, they repel rodents by smell but need renewal after rain.
• Important: the use of poisoned baits in the home garden is not recommended due to the risk to pets and birds.

3.2. Protection from sunburn and frost cracks

We have already mentioned whitewashing, but there are additional methods:

• Shading — on the south side of young trees in late winter (February–March), place shields of white material, reflective screens. This prevents sudden heating of the bark.
• Wrapping with light cover material (agrospan, white non‑woven fabric) — wrap the trunk in 2–3 layers, leaving a ventilation gap. Remove when consistently warm weather sets in.

Signs of sunburn: brown or dark longitudinal spots appear on the bark on the south side. The bark cracks and peels. If this happens, cut out damaged areas to healthy wood, disinfect, and cover with grafting wax.

3.3. Treatment of wounds and frost cracks

If cracks (frost cracks) or dead areas form on the bark, follow this algorithm (Potapov et al., 2000):

1. Clean the damaged area — remove dead bark down to healthy tissue with a sharp knife. The edges of the wound should be smooth, without splinters.

2. Disinfect the wound with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture. Allow to dry for 10–15 minutes.

3. Cover the wound with grafting wax or a special sealing paste (e.g., "RanNet") — this protects the wound from fungal infection and allows it to heal.

4. If the wound is large, a "bridge" graft can be applied — graft scions (bridges) across the damaged area to restore sap flow. But this is a complex operation; for a non‑professional, it is better to call a specialist, or if the wound encircles more than 70 % of the trunk circumference, the tree is likely doomed and should be replaced.

3.4. Protection from mechanical damage

• When working in the garden (mowing, loosening), try not to damage the bark with lawnmowers, trimmers, or hoes. Install protective guards (e.g., cut the bottom of a plastic bottle and fit it over the trunk).
• When pruning in spring and autumn, make proper cuts — do not leave stubs, but do not cut into the wood. Always cover pruning wounds with grafting wax if the cut diameter is greater than 1 cm (Phillips, 2005).

1. Props (stakes)

These are vertical supports placed under a branch to take part of its weight. Traditionally made of wood, but other materials can be used.

Wooden props:

• Use strong, straight poles of hardwood (oak, beech, ash, birch) with a diameter of at least 4–5 cm at the base.
• The length of the prop should be such that the upper end is at the fork of the branch, supporting it at its most vulnerable point — where it branches from the trunk or another large branch.
• The lower end of the prop should rest on the ground, sunk 5–10 cm to prevent slipping. You can cover with soil or weigh down with a stone.

Metal and plastic props:

• Garden centres sell special telescopic props with adjustable height and rubber tips. They are convenient, durable, and do not injure bark.
• You can use strong metal pipes, but the upper end must be wrapped with soft cloth or a cut plastic bottle to avoid damaging the branch.

Important rule: always place a soft pad (a piece of rubber, felt, thick fabric) on the upper end of the prop — this prevents the support from pressing into the bark and causing wounds.

Installation scheme:

• Place the prop vertically, slightly inclined toward the branch, so that the load is transmitted strictly along the prop axis.
• If supporting a long branch, you may need several props along its length (every 1–1.5 m).
• Install props before the branch bends too much. If the branch has already dropped, first gently lift it with another pole and then place the prop underneath.

In commercial orchards of past decades, so‑called "chatalas" were used — a system of permanent props under each scaffold branch (Potapov et al., 2000). In modern home orchards, this is usually not required if the tree is properly shaped, but for old or particularly heavily cropping trees, individual props are very useful.

2. Tying to the central leader and higher branches

Sometimes it is more convenient not to use a prop but to pull the branch up to the trunk or to a higher strong branch. This relieves the crotch and prevents splitting.

Materials:

• Soft twine, cotton rope, old tights cut into strips
• Garden tying tapes (biodegradable or plastic, but always soft)
• Never use thin wire or fishing line — they cut into the bark as the branch thickens.

Tying scheme:

• Tie the supported branch at a distance of 30–50 cm from its base (closer to the trunk, where it is most vulnerable).
• Tie the other end to the trunk above the attachment point, or to a stronger branch located higher.
• Leave a small gap (loop) so that the rope does not constrict the branch too tightly — this is important because branches and the trunk continue to thicken.
• After 1–2 months, loosen the tie; if necessary, replace with a looser one.

Important: tying should not prevent the branch from moving freely with the wind — this is natural training for the wood. Complete rigid fixation is harmful.

3. Guy wires and tension ties

In trellis orchards, where trees are trained as flat crowns (palmette, cordon, spindle), fruiting branches are often fixed using guy wires — ropes tied to stakes driven into the ground beside the branch, or to lower branches.

Anchor tie:

• Drive a stake into the ground outside the crown projection (1–2 m from the trunk).
• Tie a rope to the middle of the fruiting branch, bring it vertically down and secure to the stake.
• Tension should be moderate — the branch should not be lifted upward; it remains in its natural position but receives lower support.

Tie between neighbouring branches — if branches grow symmetrically, they can be tied together, providing mutual support. This is especially effective for branches at the same height on opposite sides of the trunk.

1. Wide crotch angles

The angle between the branch and the trunk should be at least 45–60° (ideally 60–70°). Branches with such angles have a strong connection, with a full "collar" of tissues that can withstand heavy loads.

How to correct a narrow angle:

• For young trees (first 3–4 years), use spreaders — wooden or plastic sticks inserted between the trunk and the branch to bend it to the desired angle.
• You can use tension ties — tie the branch to a stake driven into the ground on the opposite side, bending it outward.
• If the branch is already mature and the angle remains narrow, do not try to bend it by force — it will break. Instead, gradually replace this branch with a new one grown from a side shoot.

2. Maintaining branch hierarchy

In a properly formed crown, the central leader should always be higher and thicker than the side branches. Side branches should not outgrow the central leader, otherwise they become too powerful and may split off under their own weight (Krivko, 2014).

• When pruning, ensure the central leader stands 20–30 cm above the scaffold branches.
• If a side branch becomes too strong, shorten it or thin it out by cutting back to a weaker side branch.

3. Removing "competitors" and water sprouts

Competitors are branches growing almost parallel to the trunk and competing with it. Water sprouts are vertical, vigorous shoots arising from dormant buds. Both types have acute crotch angles and weak attachment. They should be removed as early as possible.

Installing support

• Early July — the best time to assess the load and install props, when fruit have reached a noticeable size but have not yet finished swelling.
• If you noticed branch bending earlier (in June), do not wait — install immediately.

Removing props

• After harvest, props can be removed (usually in September–October).
• Why it is important to remove: props left over winter may damage bark during snowfalls, become shelters for rodents, and simply interfere with pruning and care.
• Store props in a dry place until the next season.

Regular inspection

During the season, check the condition of supports:

• Has the rope cut into the bark? Loosen if necessary.
• Has the prop shifted? If the upper end has slipped and presses on the bark, reposition it.
• Has a new crack appeared at the branch base? If so, immediately add a prop and treat the wound.

Inspection and identification of problematic branches

Inspect the tree at least twice a year to identify dry, diseased, and broken branches:

• In autumn, after leaf fall, when the crown is "transparent" and easily visible.
• In early spring, before bud break, before sap flow begins.

What to look for:

• Dry branches — bark is peeling, wood underneath is dark and brittle. They often appear on old trees or after severe winters.
• Branches with signs of disease — dark spots and cankers on bark (canker), blackened, "scorched" shoots with a characteristic shepherd's crook bend (fire blight), swellings and galls (black canker, cytosporosis).
• Broken branches — from wind, snow, fruit weight, with open wounds that are easily infected.

How to remove correctly

Removal of dry and diseased branches is done "on the collar": the cut is made at the collar swelling at the branch base, leaving no stub. Stubs do not heal and become sources of rot (Agustí, 2010; Phillips, 2005). Detailed cutting technique is described in pruning materials — the principle is the same.

Special cases:

• Fire blight requires a special approach. Infected shoots should be cut with at least 30–40 cm of healthy wood below visible symptoms, and make a so‑called "ugly stub cut" — leaving a 10–15 cm stub, which is removed during winter pruning. This is done to avoid spreading bacteria through fresh cuts. Mark the location of such a cut (e.g., with coloured tape) so that you do not forget to remove it in winter (Phillips, 2005).
• Branches with signs of black canker (Botryosphaeria spp.) should be cut out completely, removing at least 10–15 cm of healthy wood beyond the lesion boundary.

All removed branches with signs of disease must be burned or removed from the orchard and buried deeply. Do not use them for mulch or compost — spores and pathogens remain viable for years (Phillips, 2005).

How to collect windfalls

1. Regularly, at least once a week from late June until harvest, and especially in August–September, when most varieties ripen.

2. Collect preferably in the morning, after the cool of the night, when fruits are firmer and less damaged.

3. Use a garden scoop, basket, or bucket. Collect not only visible fruit but also look for those fallen into grass, under bushes — they often go unnoticed.

4. Do not leave windfalls on the ground even for one day — codling moth larvae may have time to leave the fruit and enter the soil.

What to do with collected windfalls

• The best option — burn the windfalls the same day. This guarantees destruction of larvae and spores.
• Second option — bury them at least 30–40 cm deep away from the orchard. At such depths, larvae cannot emerge to the surface.
• Third option — remove them from the site.
• Never bury windfalls in the trunk circle or compost them (unless using industrial high‑temperature composting).

What to do with leaves under the apple tree

Option 1: Removal and burning

• If scab was present in the past season (and it almost always is in wet years), leaves are best collected and burned or removed from the garden.
• Collect leaves conveniently with a rake, but try not to dig too deep to avoid damaging surface roots. Fan rakes are better.

Option 2: Deep incorporation

• If burning is not possible, leaves can be buried between rows to a depth of 20–30 cm. Scab spores do not germinate at such depths, and they are decomposed by soil microorganisms (Potapov et al., 2000; Krivko, 2014).
• Ploughing or digging with soil inversion is an effective way to incorporate leaves.

Option 3: Treating leaves with urea

• In recent years, spraying fallen leaves with a 4–5% solution of urea has been practised. This accelerates leaf decomposition and destroys scab spores. The treatment is carried out after complete leaf fall, but before frost, when temperatures are still above +5 °C.

Important: Leaves with obvious signs of disease should not be left in trunk circles as mulch, nor should they be put into ordinary compost — spores remain viable for 1–2 years.

What to do with pruning debris

• Healthy branches can be chipped and used as mulch, but not in the trunk circle of the same apple tree — rather on flower beds or between currant bushes.
• Diseased, dry, and cankered branches — burn only! Canker pathogens (Nectria, Valsa, Phomopsis spp.) live in dead wood for up to 5–6 years and can infect neighbouring trees (Phillips, 2005).

Spring (before bud break)

• Sanitary pruning — remove branches that froze over winter (easily identified by dark wood on the cut).
• Cleaning of trunk from old bark (if not done in autumn).
• Collection and burning of plant residues left from autumn.
• Removal of trapping bands (if placed in autumn).

Spring–Summer (during the growing season)

• Regular collection of windfalls (once a week).
• When disease symptoms appear on leaves, remove and burn the most affected leaves and shoots.
• Pruning of branches with signs of fire blight (with mandatory tool disinfection).

Autumn (after leaf fall)

• Collection and destruction of fallen leaves (especially those with scab symptoms).
• Removal of mummified fruits remaining on branches (they are clearly visible after leaf fall).
• Cleaning of trunk from old bark, mosses, lichens.
• Sanitary pruning of dry and diseased branches (if not done earlier).
• Whitewashing of trunk and bases of scaffold branches.
• Collection and destruction of all windfalls not removed during the season.
• Installation of trapping bands (for winter, to catch caterpillars overwintering under bark).

Winter (during thaws)

• Regular checks: have any branches broken under snow weight? If necessary, remove (with subsequent spring treatment of wounds).

Spring (from bud swell to flowering)

Spring is the time of awakening. In this period, winter damage and early signs of disease are clearly visible.

What to check:

1. Bud and shoot condition:

• Live buds are firm, with a greenish cut (if cut open). Frost‑killed buds are brown and dry.
• Check for dark, drying areas on branches — this may indicate fire blight (Erwinia amylovora) or frost cracks.

2. Bark of trunk and scaffold branches:

• Are there fresh cracks, peeling, exudation of sap (gummosis) — especially on the south side (consequences of sunburn).
• Have any swellings or black spots appeared (canker, cytosporosis).
• If in doubt, clean the suspicious area to healthy wood — colour and smell can indicate the degree of damage.

3. Leaves at the start of unfolding:

• If leaves unfold slowly, curl, or turn yellow — roots may be damaged or there is a nutrient deficiency.
• Presence of dark spots on young leaves — an early sign of scab (Venturia inaequalis) (Ferree & Warrington, 2003).

4. Signs of pests:

• Aphid eggs on shoot tips or on the undersides of young leaves.
• Tunnels and damage from blossom weevils (buds do not open, dry up).

What to do upon detection: eliminate the problem immediately: remove affected shoots, treat wounds, and if necessary, spray with approved products according to the tree's developmental stage (before flowering — stronger products can be used; during flowering — only mild ones).

Summer (from flowering to fruit ripening)

In summer, the main attention is on fruit, leaves, and shoot growth.

What to check:

1. Leaves:

• Scab: dark brown, oily spots on the upper side of leaves, later a velvety coating. Particularly active in rainy weather.
• Powdery mildew: whitish coating on young leaves and shoots, they curl and deform.
• Chlorosis (yellowing between veins) — a sign of iron deficiency (especially on calcareous soils) or excess moisture (Jackson, 2003). If it affects young upper leaves — probably iron deficiency; if older lower leaves — possibly magnesium or nitrogen deficiency.
• Premature yellowing and leaf drop — a signal of serious stress: drought, waterlogging, root rot, or severe disease infestation.

2. Fruit:

• Codling moth (Cydia pomonella): entry holes on fruit, frass (sawdust‑like excrement) at the entrance, wormy apples.
• Scab on fruit: dark spots, cracks, deformation.
• Moniliosis (brown rot): rapidly enlarging brown spots that later become covered with cream‑coloured spore cushions (Agustí, 2010).
• Fruit drop — if massive and premature, check for caterpillars inside dropped fruit (likely codling moth or apple sawfly damage).

3. Shoots:

• Annual growth is an important health indicator. Normally, for a mature fruiting apple tree, the length of one‑year shoots should be 20–40 cm (depends on variety and rootstock) (Cornell Guide, 2003; Potapov et al., 2000).
• If growth is less than 10–15 cm — the tree is weakened (lack of nutrition, water, root disease, or overcropping).
• If growth is more than 60–80 cm — the tree is "luxuriating" (excess nitrogen), fruiting will be poor; fertilisation needs adjustment.

4. Pests and their traces:

• Aphids: colonies on young shoots, curled leaves, sticky honeydew.
• Spider mites: fine webbing on the underside of leaves; leaves become greyish, then brown and drop. Noticeable in hot, dry weather.
• Apple blossom weevil (Anthonomus pomorum): buds turn brown and do not open; inside is a small larva.

5. Signs of water shortage or excess:

• Wilting of leaves even in the morning, curling of edges, browning — a clear sign of drought. Urgent watering needed.
• Yellow, limp leaves in wet weather — possible water stagnation at roots.

What to do: record all changes. If a localised problem is found (isolated pest nests, a few spotted leaves) — remove affected parts by hand. For mass infestation, use approved plant protection products, strictly observing pre‑harvest intervals.

Autumn (after harvest until leaf fall)

Autumn inspection is important for assessing the completion of vegetation and winter preparation.

What to check:

1. Leaf condition before fall:

• If leaves drop prematurely (in August–September) without turning yellow — this may indicate fungal diseases (scab, leaf spots) or severe stress.
• If leaves remain green until frosts and do not drop — the tree has not prepared for winter, risk of freezing. Cause: excess nitrogen late in the season, watering (Potapov et al., 2000).

2. Bark and branch condition:

• Inspect all large branches for cracks, wounds, hollows. If in doubt, gently tap the bark — a dull sound may indicate internal rot.
• Check for swellings (galls) on branches — possibly canker or cytosporosis.

3. Wood maturity:

• One‑year shoots should be well‑ripened — bark brown, shiny. If shoots are greenish and soft — they will not survive winter.

4. Signs of rodents:

• Examine the base of the trunk and root collar — are there gnaw marks, bark eaten away (if so, treat wounds immediately and install protection).

What to do: plan autumn work based on the inspection (sanitary pruning, whitewashing, leaf removal, rodent protection). All this is detailed in previous chapters.

Winter (in dormant state, during thaws)

In winter, the tree sleeps, but inspections are still needed, especially after heavy snowfalls and blizzards.

What to check:

1. Snow and wind damage: have any branches broken under the weight of wet snow or ice? If you suspect cracks, gently shake snow off branches (using long poles with soft tips). If fresh breaks are found, cut them off to avoid extra load in spring.

2. Rodent signs: tracks in snow, gnaw marks on bark. If damage is found, take immediate measures: install protective netting, lay out repellents (if not done in autumn), compact snow around the trunk to deny mice passages.

3. Bark condition: on sunny days, inspect the south side of the trunk for signs of sunburn (reddening, peeling bark). If found, treat in spring.

Important: do not use metal tools to shake off snow — they damage bark and buds. Use wooden battens with soft tips or a soft broom.

1. Autumn diagnosis and planning

• Assess the harvest and tree condition. If the tree was overloaded, plan earlier and more thorough thinning next year.
• Note which varieties or individual trees were particularly affected by diseases, so that preventive measures can be taken in spring.

2. Wound treatment and sanitary pruning (carried out in dry weather)

• All wounds, cracks, and cuts >1 cm diameter should be treated and sealed.
• Remove all dry, diseased, and broken branches.
• Collect and destroy all plant residues (leaves, windfalls, pruning debris).

3. Winter protection

• Whitewashing of the trunk (main autumn application, protects against burns).
• Installation of protective netting against rodents.
• Compacting snow around the trunk after the first snowfall.

4. Fertilisation (if necessary)

• Autumn fertilisation with potassium‑phosphorus fertilisers (no nitrogen!) helps wood maturation and increases frost resistance. Apply in late September – October in the trunk circle at a rate of 20–30 g superphosphate and 15–20 g potassium salt per 1 m² (Potapov et al., 2000; Jackson, 2003).

5. Keeping a gardener's diary

• Record dates of inspections, problems found, and actions taken. This helps track trends, identify patterns, and make better decisions in the future. Experience shows that the most valuable adviser is your own records over several years.