Grafting

2.1. Seedling Rootstocks

Seedling rootstocks are grown from stones. This is the oldest and most traditional method.

How it works: Gardeners collect stones from certain cultivars or species of trees, stratify them (keep them in a moist environment at low temperature to awaken) and sow them. The resulting seedlings are used as rootstocks.

Advantages:

• Availability and simplicity: Seeds can be obtained independently or purchased.
• Good compatibility: Seedlings of most cherry species and cultivars graft well with cultivated varieties.
• Powerful root system: Seedling rootstocks often form a deep taproot, making trees more drought‑resistant and long‑lived (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Disadvantages:

• Non‑uniformity: Even stones from the same tree produce seedlings that differ in vigour, crown shape, and other traits. This creates difficulties in orchard management.
• Vigorous growth: Most seedling rootstocks produce very large trees. Caring for them (pruning, spraying, harvesting) requires more time, effort and special equipment (ladders, etc.). Moreover, such trees come into bearing later (Westwood, 1993).

Which seedling rootstocks are used for cherries:

As seedling rootstocks, seedlings of cultivated cherry varieties (e.g., 'Vladimirskaya', 'Shubinka') or wild species adapted to local conditions are most often used. The main species used in different zones are:

• Sour cherry (Cerasus vulgaris): Seedlings of local winter‑hardy cultivars.
• Mahaleb cherry ( Cerasus mahaleb ): This is one of the most popular rootstocks for sweet cherries in southern and dry regions. Mahaleb grows well on light, calcareous soils, is drought‑ and frost‑resistant, and also resistant to root rots. However, it may be incompatible with some cultivars and grows poorly on heavy, wet soils (Webster and Schmidt, 1996; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Seedlings of cultivated sour cherry cultivars: In the central zone of Russia, seedlings of 'Vladimirskaya', 'Lyubskaya', and other regionalised varieties are often used. This ensures good compatibility and winter hardiness (Tarasov et al., 1981).

2.2. Clonal (Vegetatively Propagated) Rootstocks

Clonal rootstocks are the result of many years of breeding work. They are propagated not by seeds but vegetatively: by cuttings, layering, or micropropagation. This makes it possible to obtain thousands of identical plants with absolutely identical properties.

Advantages of clonal rootstocks:

• Uniformity: All trees in the orchard grow alike, simplifying planting plans, care, and harvesting.
• Control of vigour: Among clonal rootstocks, you can choose a rootstock of any vigour – from super‑dwarf to vigorous. This allows you to create intensive orchards with high planting densities.
• Early bearing: Trees on dwarf clonal rootstocks begin to bear fruit significantly earlier than on seedlings – as early as 2–4 years (Potapov et al., 2000; Long et al., 2021).
• Disease resistance and adaptability: Many clonal rootstocks have been specially selected for resistance to dangerous diseases such as bacterial canker (Pseudomonas), root rots (Phytophthora), and viruses (Webster and Schmidt, 1996).

Disadvantages:

• Higher cost and more difficult propagation.
• Demanding on soils and care: Dwarf rootstocks often have shallow root systems, requiring regular irrigation and fertilisation. They may also be less winter‑hardy than their seedling counterparts.
• Need for support: Trees on dwarf rootstocks are poorly anchored in the soil and require staking (Potapov et al., 2000).

Main groups of clonal rootstocks for cherries:

1. For sour cherry (mainly in Russia and CIS countries):

Izmaylovsky, AVCh‑2, VP‑1, OVP‑2, OVP‑3, Rubin, Moskoviya: These rootstocks were bred in Russia. They are propagated vegetatively, ensure good sapling yield and vigorous growth in the nursery, and early bearing of trees (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2. For sweet cherry and dwarf sour cherry (international assortment):

• Gisela series (Gisela): One of the most popular and successful series of clonal rootstocks, developed in Germany. It is based on hybrids of different species: Prunus cerasus (sour cherry) and P. canescens.
• Gisela 5: Dwarf rootstock, reducing tree vigour by about 40–60% compared to vigorous rootstocks. Very early‑bearing and productive. Demanding on soil fertility and irrigation, needs support. Well suited for intensive orchards and container growing (Long et al., 2021; Webster and Schmidt, 1996).
• Gisela 6: Semi‑dwarf rootstock. Produces trees 20–40% smaller than vigorous ones. Less demanding than Gisela 5, better anchored, but still needs support. Well proven on fertile soils and under irrigation (Long et al., 2021).
• Gisela 12: Semi‑dwarf rootstock. Depending on the cultivar and conditions, it can produce trees larger or smaller than on Gisela 6. Noted for good adaptability to different soils and a deeper root system, improving drought resistance (Long et al., 2021).

• Krymsk series: Bred in Russia. They are distinguished by good winter hardiness, resistance to bacterial canker, and adaptability to heavy soils. Also early‑bearing and productive (Long et al., 2021).
• Krymsk 5: Semi‑dwarf rootstock. Trees on it are comparable in vigour to Gisela 12 but less productive, which is beneficial for high‑yielding cultivars. Resistant to diseases, well anchored.
• Krymsk 6: Semi‑dwarf rootstock, similar in vigour to Gisela 6. Noted for good productivity.

Colt: Hybrid of sweet cherry (P. avium) and sand cherry (P. pseudocerasus). Semi‑dwarf rootstock. Widely used, especially in humid climates. Produces trees 25–30% smaller than vigorous ones. Better anchored than some other clonal rootstocks and does not require obligatory staking (Webster and Schmidt, 1996). However, under irrigation it can be more vigorous.

MaxMa 14: Hybrid of sweet cherry and mahaleb (P. mahaleb). Semi‑dwarf rootstock. Valued for resistance to bacterial canker and good adaptation to calcareous and dry soils. Produces trees intermediate in size between Gisela 6 and vigorous rootstocks (Long et al., 2021).

2.3. Compatibility of Rootstock and Scion

This is a key condition for success. If rootstock and scion are incompatible, even if they unite, the trees will be weak and short‑lived. Compatibility is a genetic property. Ideally, the rootstock and scion should be close relatives.

How incompatibility manifests:

• Poor take in the nursery.
• Weak union at the graft site (the tree may break in wind or under crop load).
• Overgrowth of rootstock or scion at the union.
• Stunted growth, yellowing leaves, dieback of branches, and death of the tree 5–10 years after planting.

Examples of incompatibility for cherries:

• Mahaleb cherry: Although it is a good rootstock, some sweet cherry cultivars, e.g., 'Lapins', 'Chelan', 'Titon', are incompatible with it. Trees may grow for 6–8 years and then die (Long et al., 2021).
• Some clonal rootstocks: Certain clonal rootstocks, e.g., Weiroot 13 or some hybrids from the Gisela series (1, 4, 7, 10, 11), have shown sensitivity or incompatibility with some cultivars (Webster and Schmidt, 1996; Long et al., 2021).

Gardener's note: The best guarantee of compatibility is to use verified and recommended “rootstock‑cultivar” pairs for your region. Information can be obtained from local nurseries, horticultural farms, or regional recommendations. For cherries, seedlings of cultivated sour cherry varieties are often recommended as a reliable “backup” option – they are compatible with most cultivars.

2.4. Influence of Rootstock on Growth and Fruiting

The influence of the rootstock is so great that the same cultivar tree on different rootstocks will look and fruit differently (Webster and Schmidt, 1996).

• Vigour: The rootstock determines the final size of the tree. Dwarf rootstocks (Gisela 5) will produce a compact tree of 2.5–3.5 m, while on a vigorous rootstock (seedling of mahaleb or cultivated variety) it can grow to 6–8 m or more.
• Early bearing and productivity: Dwarf rootstocks significantly accelerate the onset of fruiting. A tree grafted onto Gisela 5 may give its first crop as early as the 3rd year, while on a cherry seedling you might wait 6–8 years. Moreover, trees on dwarf rootstocks often yield higher cumulative production in the early years, although they live shorter (Potapov et al., 2000).
• Fruit quality: With proper care (especially crop thinning), trees on dwarf rootstocks produce larger and better‑quality fruits due to better crown illumination and an optimal balance between vegetative growth and fruiting.
• Resistance to environmental conditions: This aspect has already been mentioned. For example, mahaleb is indispensable on light, calcareous soils but perishes on heavy, waterlogged ones. Clonal rootstocks such as Gisela 6 or Krymsk are more adaptable to different soils but require good care and irrigation. Resistance to diseases also varies greatly. For instance, Gisela 6 is sensitive to bacterial canker, while MaxMa 14 is more resistant (Long et al., 2021).

Practical conclusion: Choosing a rootstock is always a compromise. If you have fertile, well‑drained soil and are willing to devote much attention to the orchard (irrigation, fertilisation), then the best choice is dwarf or semi‑dwarf rootstocks (Gisela 5, Gisela 6, Krymsk 5). If the soil is poor or heavy, or you do not have the ability for frequent watering, opt for more vigorous rootstocks (cherry seedlings, mahaleb, MaxMa 14, Colt). And always consider the compatibility of the chosen rootstock with the cultivar you want to grow.

3.1. Selecting Shoots for Cuttings

For harvesting cuttings (also called scion material), choose only healthy and high‑yielding mother trees. These are the ones from which you will “clone” your future trees.

• Which shoot to choose: Use only one‑year‑old shoots (current season's growth). They must be well ripened, i.e., having lignified, firm bark. To the touch, such a shoot should be hard and, when bent, produce a characteristic crackling sound.
• Where to take shoots from: The best cuttings come from the middle part of the crown, on the south or south‑west side of the tree. Shoots from there ripen better and have higher quality wood. Do not use water sprouts (vertically growing vigorous shoots inside the crown) for cuttings; they usually give weak scions.
• Length and thickness: The ideal length of a shoot for cutting is 30–40 cm, and thickness 6–10 mm (like a standard pencil) (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). Too thin or too thick shoots take less well.
• Important condition: The shoot must have a well‑developed terminal bud. This indicates that the shoot has completed its growth and matured. If the terminal bud is missing or damaged, such a shoot is not suitable for cuttings.

Why this matters: A cutting is not just a “stick”; it is a living organism with a reserve of nutrients. The quality of the shoot directly affects its ability to form callus (the swelling at the cut from which roots later develop) and to unite with the rootstock. A well‑ripened shoot is rich in carbohydrates and has the correct hormone balance, which stimulates the union process.

3.2. Timing of Harvesting

The optimal time for harvesting cherry cuttings is winter, before severe frosts set in. In most regions, this is the period from late November to late December (Tarasov et al., 1981; Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

• Why harvest in winter: At this time, the tree is in a state of deep dormancy. The shoots have already accumulated maximum nutrients and hardened. Cuttings cut at this time withstand storage better.
• What happens if you are late: If you harvest too late (in February or March), you may encounter problems of bud freezing or premature awakening. Moreover, sap flow has already begun, and cuttings will store less well.
• Can you harvest in spring: Spring harvesting is also allowed, but only before bud swelling. It is usually used as a last resort if the winter material was lost. Such cuttings are less reliable and have lower take rates (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

3.3. Rules for Cutting and Preparing Cuttings

1. Cutting: Cut the shoots with sharp secateurs or a grafting knife. The cut should be smooth and clean, without bark tears.

2. Sorting: Immediately after cutting, sort the shoots. Discard those that are too thin, crooked, or damaged by pests or diseases. Keep only the best.

3. Bundling: Tie the selected cuttings into small bundles. They should be roughly the same length. Each bundle should contain 10–30 cuttings, no more, so that they are well ventilated and do not sweat. Do not forget to attach a label to each bundle indicating the cultivar, date of cutting, and possibly the place where it was taken (Tarasov et al., 1981). This is very important to avoid mixing varieties in spring.

4. Storage: Immediately after cutting and bundling, the cuttings must be properly stored.

3.4. Storage Conditions for Cuttings

The main goal of storage is to keep the cuttings dormant, preventing them from drying out or, conversely, starting to sprout prematurely. The storage temperature should be stable, about 0–2 °C, and humidity high (around 80–90%).

There are several proven storage methods:

1. Storage in snow (snow‑heaping): This is one of the most reliable and simple methods for the central zone. Bundles of cuttings are tied into larger bundles, wrapped in burlap or thick paper, and placed in a snow pile on the north side of buildings or in a shady place. The pile is covered with a layer of sawdust or straw 15–20 cm thick to keep the snow from melting as long as possible in spring. This method is good because the cuttings “breathe” and do not mould, and they are kept in natural conditions (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Tarasov et al., 1981).

2. Storage in a cellar or basement: Bundle cuttings are buried with the lower ends in moist sand, sawdust, or peat. The substrate should be moist but not wet! You can completely cover the cuttings with sand or sawdust, but they must be in open containers to prevent sweating.

3. Storage in a refrigerator: If you have only a few cuttings, they can be kept in a domestic refrigerator. Tie the cuttings in bundles, wrap them in a moistened cloth (e.g., several layers of wet gauze) and place them in a plastic bag with ventilation holes. Store in the vegetable compartment where the temperature is most stable. Periodically check the moisture of the cloth.

Important nuances during storage:

• Do not allow over‑moistening. Excess moisture leads to bark rot and bud death.
• Do not allow drying out. If the substrate or cloth dries, the cuttings lose moisture and union becomes impossible.
• Protection from rodents: When storing in snow or a cellar, be sure to take measures against mice, which love to nibble on the tender bark of young shoots. You can use metal mesh, chemical repellents, or simply hang the bundles.
• Inspection: 2–3 weeks before the planned grafting (usually in late March – early April), the cuttings should be checked. If the substrate is dry, moisten it. If you notice mould, the cuttings can be gently washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Why this matters: Storage conditions mimic natural wintering. If you keep the cuttings at the optimal temperature, they will remain “sleeping” and, after grafting, will quickly start growing together with the rootstock.

By following these simple but important rules, you will provide yourself with high‑quality scion material and lay a solid foundation for successful union.

4.1. Spring Grafting

Spring is the main and most reliable season for grafting with cuttings (methods such as whip‑and‑tongue, cleft grafting, bark grafting, etc.).

Optimal timing: Late April – early May, when the rootstock begins active sap flow (bark easily separates from wood) while the buds on the scion are still dormant (not swollen) (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004; Tarasov et al., 1981).

How to determine the right moment: The surest sign is the beginning of bud swelling on the rootstock. At this time, the cambium of the rootstock is already actively working, ensuring rapid callus formation and union. The scion, however, should still be “dormant”. That is why it is so important to store cuttings until spring.

Why this matters: In spring grafting, the scion does not yet have its own roots and depends entirely on the rootstock. The active cambium of the rootstock “takes over” the scion and supplies it with nutrients. If you graft too early, when the cambium has not yet awakened, union will be slow and the cutting may dry out. If you graft too late, when buds on the scion have already opened, it may not take because all its energy will go into shoot growth rather than callus formation.

Peculiarities of spring grafting for cherries:

• Sap flow in cherries begins early, so it is important not to be late.
• 1–2 days before grafting, the cuttings should be brought into a warm room to “wake up” (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• If spring is cold and prolonged, grafting can be shifted to early May.

4.2. Summer Grafting (Budding)

In summer, the main grafting method is budding – grafting with a single bud (eye) with a thin layer of wood or without it.

Optimal timing: Second half of July – early August (in the central zone) or slightly later in southern regions (Tarasov et al., 1981; Kurennoi et al., 1985). At this time, there is a second wave of sap flow, and the bark of the rootstock separates well.

How to determine readiness for budding:

• The bark on the rootstock should easily separate from the wood when making a T‑cut.
• Shoots on mother trees for collecting shields must be well ripened, with large, well‑formed buds. Usually these are current season's shoots that have completed growth.

Why summer: Summer budding allows you to obtain a sapling by the next autumn. The bud does not sprout in the year of budding (it is a “dormant” bud) but remains dormant until spring. Over autumn and winter, it unites well with the rootstock. This saves a whole year compared to spring grafting with cuttings.

Important: For stone fruits (cherries), summer budding should be done 2–3 weeks earlier than for pome fruits. This is because stone fruits begin differentiation of flower buds earlier, and if you are late, the shield may not take or may produce a weak shoot (Tarasov et al., 1981).

4.3. Autumn Grafting

Autumn grafting with cuttings is rarely done because sap flow declines and union is slow. In most regions, autumn grafting of cherries is not recommended due to the high risk of winterkill.

Exception: In southern regions with mild winters, autumn budding is sometimes done, but this is more an exception than a rule. In the central zone, autumn grafting is generally not practised.

4.4. Winter Grafting

This is a special method performed indoors during the winter period (from December to March) (Tarasov et al., 1981; Kurennoi et al., 1985). It is mainly used in commercial nurseries, but it is also accessible to experienced amateur gardeners.

Essence of the method:

1. Rootstocks (seedlings or clonal) and scions harvested in autumn are stored in a refrigerator or cellar.

2. 5–8 days before grafting, rootstocks and scions are brought into a warm room to activate processes.

3. Grafting is performed using improved whip‑and‑tongue (if diameters match) or side‑graft (if rootstock is thicker than the cutting).

4. Grafted plants are placed in boxes with moist sawdust or peat and kept at about 20–25 °C for 2–3 weeks for union (stratification).

5. Then they are moved to a cold place (0–2 °C) and stored until spring planting in the ground.

Advantages of winter grafting:

• Allows efficient use of time and labour during a period when there is no other work in the garden.
• Gives very high take rates (up to 90–95%).
• Allows you to obtain ready‑made saplings by autumn of the same year.
• Suitable for double grafting (with an interstock) to create dwarf forms (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Disadvantages:

• Requires a special room and equipment.
• More labour‑intensive process.

For an amateur gardener, winter grafting is an interesting experiment that allows obtaining quality saplings if you can organise a place for stratification and storage.

Practical recommendations on timing:

• For beginners: The best time for your first cherry grafting is spring (late April – early May). This is the simplest and most reliable method, giving high take rates.
• For experienced gardeners: Summer budding (late July – early August) is an excellent way to obtain a large number of saplings in one season with minimal time and material costs.
• Winter grafting: Use it if you have a warm room and are ready to master the stratification technique. This will allow you to obtain strong one‑year‑old saplings by the next autumn.

5.1. Whip Grafting (Cleft‑graft with a cutting)

Whip grafting is a method in which slanting cuts of rootstock and scion of equal diameter are joined. This is the main method for spring grafting.

5.2. Cleft Grafting

This method is used when the rootstock is significantly thicker than the scion. It is often used for top‑working adult trees, when you need to replace the cultivar on thick branches or the trunk (Tarasov et al., 1981; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Technique:

1. The branch or trunk (rootstock) is cut off to a stump.

2. The cut surface is cleaned with a grafting knife.

3. Using a special hatchet or a strong knife, make a longitudinal split in the centre of the stump, 4–5 cm deep.

4. Insert a wedge into the resulting slit to keep it open.

5. On the lower end of the scion cutting, make two slanting cuts on opposite sides to form a wedge about 3 cm long. One side should be slightly narrower than the other.

6. Insert the cutting into the split so that the cambium on one side of the cutting matches the cambium of the rootstock.

7. If the rootstock is thick, you can insert 2–4 cuttings on different sides.

8. Remove the wedge; the slit closes and firmly grips the cuttings.

9. Seal all open wounds with grafting wax and bind the graft site.

Why it works: The split creates a large contact area of cambial layers, allowing even thick branches to take. This method is also simple to perform and does not require precise matching of diameters.

5.3. Bark Grafting

A method similar to cleft grafting but used when the rootstock is very thick and its bark separates easily from the wood (during spring sap flow) (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Technique:

1. Cut the branch to a stump and clean the cut surface.

2. On the cut surface, make a longitudinal cut in the bark 2–3 cm long.

3. Carefully peel the bark back on one or both sides of the cut.

4. On the lower end of the cutting, make a slanting cut 2–3 cm long.

5. Sharpen the cut to a wedge, but on one side remove bark and some wood to make the wedge flatter.

6. Insert the cutting between the bark and the wood of the rootstock, into the “pocket” formed.

7. Repeat with several cuttings, evenly distributing them around the circumference of the stump.

8. Bind tightly and carefully seal all open wounds with grafting wax.

Why it works: During active sap flow, the bark peels easily, and the cutting quickly forms callus in contact with the living tissue of the rootstock. This method gives very high take rates.

5.4. Budding (Grafting with a Bud or Eye)

This is the main method for summer grafting, which saves material and gives a ready sapling by the next autumn. For stone fruits, budding is done 2–3 weeks earlier than for pome fruits (Tarasov et al., 1981).

5.5. Side‑Grafting (Side‑veneer)

Another method for spring grafting, when the rootstock is 2–4 times thicker than the scion (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Technique:

1. On the rootstock, make an oblique or straight side cut (incision) through the bark and wood, without cutting off the top of the rootstock.

2. On the cutting, make two slanting cuts on opposite sides.

3. Insert the cutting into the incision.

4. Bind the graft site.

5. The upper part of the rootstock (above the graft) is removed only after the cutting has taken and started to grow.

Advantage: The rootstock remains intact during grafting, reducing the risk of its death if the cutting does not take.

Quick Recommendations for Choosing a Grafting Method

• Spring, rootstock and scion of equal diameter: Improved whip‑and‑tongue. This is your main choice for raising a cherry sapling.
• Spring, rootstock thicker than scion: Cleft grafting or bark grafting (for very thick branches) or side‑grafting.
• Summer: Budding (T‑bud or chip). An excellent way to rapidly increase planting stock.
• For beginners: Start with improved whip‑and‑tongue and T‑budding. These are the most studied and reliable methods.

6.1. Checking Take

After spring grafting with a cutting (whip, cleft, etc.):

• First signs of success: In 2–3 weeks, if the graft succeeded, the buds on the cutting begin to swell and start growing. If after a month the cutting remains dry and shrivelled and the buds do not open – the graft failed.
• How to check: Gently scratch the bark on the cutting with your fingernail. If you see a greenish, moist layer (cambium) under the bark – all is well. If the bark is dry and brown – the cutting is dead.

After summer budding (bud graft):

• First signs of success: 2–3 weeks after budding, take is easy to check. If the shield has taken, the leaf petiole (stalk) comes off easily with a light touch. If it has dried and does not detach – the bud did not take (Tarasov et al., 1981; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• What to do with a failed bud: If possible, budding can be repeated on the same rootstock slightly below or above, as long as the season allows (usually within 2–3 weeks). This is called re‑budding (Tarasov et al., 1981).

6.2. Removing Binding

Binding is needed to press the cut surfaces of rootstock and scion firmly together and protect them from drying out. But once union has occurred, the binding becomes a hindrance: it starts to cut into the thickening trunk, disrupting nutrient flow and can lead to tree death.

• When to remove binding:
• For summer budding: The binding is removed about 1.5–2 months after budding (closer to autumn), when the shield has united well with the rootstock (Tarasov et al., 1981). If a special photo‑degradable or fast‑degrading film is used, you can leave it – it will break down by itself.
• For spring grafting with a cutting: The binding is removed when the shoot from the scion has reached 15–20 cm in length and the graft site has noticeably thickened. This usually occurs in June–July. The main thing is not to miss this moment to avoid constriction.
• How to remove properly: Cut the binding carefully with a sharp knife on the side opposite the graft, trying not to damage the bark, and remove it completely.

Why this matters: Constriction by binding is one of the most common mistakes of novice gardeners. It leads to the formation of swellings, weakened growth, and even tree death after several years. Remove the binding in time!

6.3. Removing Rootstock Suckers (Wild Shoots)

The rootstock, especially seedling, often produces its own shoots – suckers that grow from roots or from the trunk below the graft site. This happens because the rootstock tries to restore its above‑ground part.

• Why it must be done: Rootstock suckers are “weeds” that steal water and nutrients from the grafted cultivar. If they are not removed, they can smother the cultivated shoot, and you will end up with a wildling instead of a cultivar cherry.
• When and how to remove: Suckers must be removed regularly throughout the season as soon as they appear. It is better not to cut them at ground level, as this stimulates even more active regrowth. The most effective way is to break out or cut them at the very base, at the root collar or slightly below, with a small piece of bark (the so‑called “cut to the ring”) (Tarasov et al., 1981). In autumn or spring, when digging around the trunk, it is useful to dig up and completely remove large root suckers.

6.4. Shaping the New Shoot

Your task is to help the grafted cutting or awakened bud develop into a strong, properly shaped sapling.

• For spring grafting with a cutting:
• When a shoot starts growing from the top bud of the cutting, it will grow very quickly. If you grafted a cutting with 3–4 buds, leave the strongest shoot for growth (usually the top one) and remove the rest, so that all the plant's energy goes into developing one strong stem.
• If flowers open on the cutting (which sometimes happens), they should be removed. Flowering will take too much energy from the still‑weak scion and may kill it.
• When the young shoot reaches a height of 50–60 cm, it can be pinched (tip removed) to stimulate branching and crown formation. This technique is especially important for cherries to form a compact crown (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

• For summer budding:
• In the spring of the following year, before sap flow starts, the rootstock is cut off at a height of 1–2 cm above the bud that has taken. This cut stimulates the bud to grow actively.
• When the shoot emerges from the bud, it can also be pinched for crown shaping.
• During summer, regularly remove any shoots that may appear on the remaining part of the rootstock (above the bud) or below it.

6.5. Fertilisation and Irrigation

The grafted tree experiences stress, and your task is to provide it with comfortable conditions for recovery and growth.

• Irrigation: Regular watering in the first month after grafting (especially in dry weather) is critically important. Soil moisture promotes active sap flow and rapid union.
• Fertilisation: 3–4 weeks after grafting, you can apply a complex mineral fertiliser with a predominance of nitrogen (e.g., urea, ammonium nitrate) to stimulate shoot growth. Apply fertilisers strictly according to instructions, avoiding overdoses that can burn roots. In autumn, nitrogen fertilisation should be stopped to allow shoots to ripen and prepare for winter.

Brief summary of post‑grafting care:

1. Check take regularly.

2. Remove binding in time, as soon as the graft site begins to thicken.

3. Remove rootstock suckers without mercy and immediately.

4. Leave one strong shoot for the trunk and remove the rest.

5. Ensure regular irrigation and balanced fertilisation.

Conclusion

Grafting is truly the magic of horticulture, allowing you to combine the best qualities of different plants. For cherries, it is the key to obtaining healthy, productive trees adapted to your conditions.

We have gone through all the steps: from understanding the essence of grafting and choosing the right rootstock, to harvesting cuttings, selecting optimal timing and techniques, and caring for the grafted plant. Each step is important, and success is built on details.

Do not be afraid to experiment! Gardening is a constant learning process. If something does not work out the first time, analyse your mistakes and try again. The time spent on mastering grafting will be repaid many times over when your own, hand‑grown cultivar cherries begin to delight you with a bountiful harvest. Good luck with your gardening endeavours!