Diagnosis

Seasonal Inspection: Observation Schedule

Diagnosis is not a one‑time action but a systematic observation throughout the growing season. The most informative periods are:

• Spring (bud break and flowering): Examine the buds—they should be firm and alive. Pay attention to flowering: is it uniform, are there any browning or drying of flowers?
• Early summer (active shoot growth): Assess the length and colour of new shoots, the size and colour of young leaves. This is the time when most nutritional disorders become apparent.
• Mid‑ to late summer (fruit set and ripening): Many diseases (scab, moniliosis) and pests become active during this period. Inspection of the fruit will provide you with important information.
• Autumn (preparation for winter): Evaluate how well the wood has matured and whether leaf fall began on time.

Tools for Inspection

You will not need complex equipment. It is enough to have on hand:

• A sharp knife or secateurs: for cutting suspicious branches and removing bark.
• A magnifying glass (preferably 10x): indispensable for detecting small pests (mites, aphids) and fungal spores.
• A white sheet of paper: you can shake small insects onto it for better examination.
• A notebook and pencil: for recording observations. Write down the date, weather conditions, and location of the problem. This will help track the dynamics.

Inspection Plan: from General to Specific

Start your inspection with the overall appearance of the tree and move to the details.

1. General overview: Step back a few paces and assess the tree’s habitus. Is the crown symmetrical? Are there areas with obvious wilting or depression? Pay attention to the foliage: does it look healthy and uniformly green, or are there areas with chlorosis (yellowing)?

2. Inspection of the trunk and scaffold branches: Carefully examine the bark on the trunk and at the base of the scaffold branches. The presence of cracks, peeling, wounds, or gummosis (hardened amber or brown droplets) is a serious cause for concern.

3. Inspection of shoots: Examine the current year’s growth. Assess their length (this is an indicator of vigour). Are there any signs of damage (dieback of tips, swellings, punctures)?

4. Inspection of leaves: This is the most informative stage. Examine leaves from both sides, paying attention to:

• Colour (pale, bright green, yellow, with a reddish tint).
• Spots (their colour, shape, presence of a border).
• Deposits (powdery, velvety, sooty).
• Deformation (curling, blistering, crinkling).
• Presence of insects or their traces (webs, sticky residue, excrement).

5. Inspection of fruits (if present): Check fruits for spots, rot, deformations, puncture marks, or bite marks.

6. Checking the root system (in extreme cases): If the tree is wilting without obvious above‑ground reasons, the problem may be in the roots. Carefully scrape away soil at the base of the trunk and examine the root collar and surface roots for rot, bark beetle damage, or signs of rodents (Westwood, 1993).

Proper Sampling for Analysis

If you suspect a nutritional disorder, the most accurate diagnostic method is leaf analysis (Agustí, 2010; Faust, 1989).

• When to sample: For most fruit crops, including pear, the ideal time is mid‑July to August. It is during this period that the concentration of elements in leaves becomes relatively stable.
• Which leaves to take: Collect leaves from the middle part of non‑fruiting current‑season shoots. They should be healthy and without visible damage. A sample of 50‑100 leaves from 5‑10 trees of the same variety is sufficient.
• How to store: Place the leaves in a clean paper bag and deliver them to an agrochemical laboratory as soon as possible. Do not use plastic bags, as the leaves may sweat and spoil.

Following this sequence and methodology is the first and most important step towards saving your pear. Remember that timely diagnosis allows you to correct most problems at an early stage, without resorting to heavy artillery in the form of aggressive chemicals.

Leaves

Leaves are the most informative and easily inspected organ. They are a “litmus paper” reflecting the state of the tree. Leaf problems fall into two broad groups depending on leaf age.

• Young (apical) leaves:
• What we see: Yellowing (chlorosis), with veins remaining green (Fig. 1). Leaves may become smaller, curl, and shoot tips may die back.
• Most likely causes: Deficiency of iron (Fe) (lime‑induced chlorosis), zinc (Zn), or manganese (Mn) (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010). This is because these elements are immobile in the plant and cannot be redistributed from old tissues to young ones. This can also be a sign of viral infection (Buckingham, 2010).

• Old (lower, near the base of the shoot) leaves:
• What we see: Yellowing that begins at the margins or between the veins. Leaves may take on a reddish or bronze hue, and in severe cases, they may die (necrosis) at the edges.
• Most likely causes: Deficiency of magnesium (Mg) or potassium (K) (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010). These elements, on the contrary, are very mobile. In case of their shortage, the tree “translocates” them from old leaves to young ones and fruits, sacrificing the lower parts of the crown. This can also be a symptom of nitrogen (N) starvation—then leaves become pale green or yellow across the entire blade (Westwood, 1993).

Important nuance: Similar symptoms on young leaves can also be caused by magnesium deficiency, but only when the problem arises against the background of overall tree exhaustion (Buckingham, 2010). Always assess the picture comprehensively.

Shoots and Branches

One should distinguish between problems affecting young growth and those affecting perennial branches.

• Young growth:
• Wilting and blackening of tips: Often a sign of fire blight (Erwinia amylovora)—especially in regions with wet and warm springs (Mandal et al., 2021; Трунов, 2012). Shoots often bend into a “shepherd’s crook” shape.
• Drying and dieback: May be caused by scab (under severe infection), as well as by insect pests that gnaw shoots at the base (e.g., the pear bud weevil) (Buckingham, 2010).
• Curling and deformation: Often the result of aphid or leafroller attack (Buckingham, 2010).

• Perennial branches and scaffold limbs:
• Gradual branch dieback: Starting from the upper or peripheral parts. This may be a sign of cytospora canker or canker (Buckingham, 2010). These diseases often occur against the background of trees weakened by frost or drought.
• Cracks and wounds on limbs: Indicate mechanical damage, winter sunscald, or frost cracks, through which infection then enters (Тарасов, 1981).

Bark and Trunk

Bark is the tree’s armour. Its damage is the most alarming sign because it protects the conducting tissues.

• Peeling and dieback of bark: Appearance of dry, sunken areas—canker (European or bacterial). In these places, the bark cracks, peels off, and dark fungal spores are often visible underneath (Buckingham, 2010).
• Bleeding wounds (gummosis): Exudation of amber or brown viscous droplets. This is not an independent disease but a defensive reaction of the tree to damage. Causes: mechanical injuries, frost cracks, bacterial canker, bark beetle infestation (Тарасов, 1981; Трунов, 2012).
• Presence of small holes and “flour‑like” dust: A sure sign of bark beetle or other trunk pests. The holes are entry points for larvae, and the dust is their excrement mixed with sawdust.
• Signs of gnawing: Bark gnawed at the base of the trunk—work of hares or mice. This is especially relevant in winter (Buckingham, 2010).

Flowers

Problems with flowers are most often “spring‑related.”

• Browning and wilting of flowers: Sudden wilting and browning of flowers is a characteristic sign of fire blight (Buckingham, 2010; Трунов, 2012). The infection spreads rapidly and can affect not only flowers but also leaves.
• Flowers drop without setting fruit: In most cases, this is related to adverse weather conditions: frosts during flowering, rain, or strong wind that hinders the work of pollinating insects (Тарасов, 1981). It can also be a consequence of boron (B) deficiency—this micronutrient is critically important for pollination and fertilisation (Agustí, 2010).

Fruits

Symptoms on fruits help to distinguish storage diseases from infections that appeared in the orchard.

• Rot (brown, rapidly spreading): Most likely moniliosis (brown rot). Fungal spores enter through wounds on the skin (after hail, insect bites) (Buckingham, 2010).
• Dark, velvety spots: This is scab. Fruits may become deformed, and the skin may crack. The fungus causing pear scab (Venturia pirina) affects not only leaves but also fruits (Mandal et al., 2021; Трунов, 2012).
• Hard, sunken spots (“bitter pit”): This is a physiological disorder related to calcium (Ca) deficiency (Agustí, 2010). More common in apples, but can also affect pears. It mainly develops during storage but is set in the orchard due to uneven watering or excess nitrogen and potassium fertilisers.
• Misshapen fruits, small and hard: Boron (B) deficiency (Agustí, 2010).
• Tunnels and surface damage: Traces of pest activity: codling moth (worminess), leafroller caterpillars, etc. (Buckingham, 2010).

Roots

Diagnosing problems with the root system is the most difficult, as they are “hidden from view” and manifest above ground with a delay.

• Signs of root problems:
• General depression: The tree grows poorly, leaves are pale, growth is weak, flowering is sparse or absent.
• Sudden wilting of the tree: Often occurs in hot, dry weather. The tree cannot compensate for moisture loss through the leaves because of damaged roots.
• Water shoots (suckers): Intense growth of vertical shoots in the lower part of the crown may indicate death of the main root system or severe trunk damage.

• Most likely causes:
• Flooding and waterlogging: Pear does not tolerate stagnant water. Roots begin to suffocate and rot (Трунов, 2012).
• Fungal root diseases: Phytophthora (phytophthora root rot) or honey fungus (Mandal et al., 2021; Buckingham, 2010).
• Damage: by mice, moles, or improper planting (deep planting of the root collar).
• Soil pests: Larvae of cockchafers, wireworms can gnaw roots (Buckingham, 2010).

Important: During inspection, always use the “from general to specific” scheme. First, assess the overall condition of the tree, then move to its individual parts. This will help you not to miss the interrelation between seemingly different symptoms (Тарасов, 1981).

Colour Changes (Chlorosis, Necrosis, Reddening)

Change in leaf colour is the most frequent and noticeable symptom. However, its causes can be very diverse.

• Chlorosis (yellowing):
• Uniform yellowing of all old leaves: Most often indicates nitrogen (N) deficiency. The plant moves nitrogen from old tissues to young ones to support their growth (Agustí, 2010; Westwood, 1993).
• Yellowing of young leaves while veins remain green (interveinal chlorosis): A classic sign of iron (Fe) deficiency, often occurring on alkaline (calcareous) soils (Buckingham, 2010; Agustí, 2010). Iron in such soils becomes unavailable to plants. This condition is called “lime‑induced chlorosis.”
• Yellowing between veins on old leaves, starting from the margins: Indicates magnesium (Mg) deficiency (Buckingham, 2010; Тарасов, 1981). Magnesium is a constituent of chlorophyll. When it is lacking, the photosynthetic process is disrupted.
• Yellow, then red and purple tints: Deficiency of phosphorus (P) or potassium (K) (Westwood, 1993; Тарасов, 1981).

• Reddening and bronze colouration:
• Leaves, especially old ones, may take on a reddish, purplish, or bronze hue. This often accompanies phosphorus (P) and magnesium (Mg) deficiencies (Agustí, 2010; Westwood, 1993). This symptom can also indicate infestation by spider mites (Buckingham, 2010).

• Blackening:
• Young shoots and flowers turn black and wilt: Symptom of fire blight (Erwinia amylovora) (Buckingham, 2010; Трунов, 2012). This disease is very dangerous and spreads quickly.

Spotting

The appearance of spots on leaves and fruits is a common sign of fungal and bacterial infections.

• Dark, velvety, rounded spots on leaves and fruits: A characteristic sign of scab (Venturia pirina). On fruits, spots may eventually crack (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).
• Orange or yellow spots with black dots (“rust”): This is pear rust (Buckingham, 2010). This fungal disease often requires a host plant (juniper) for its development.
• Small reddish‑brown spots that drop out, creating “shot‑hole”: Bacterial spot or clusterosporiosis (Buckingham, 2010; Тарасов, 1981). Often occurs on stone fruits, but can also affect pears.
• Pale, greasy spots that later darken and crack: May indicate bacterial canker.
• Necrotic, sunken spots on fruits: “Bitter pit”—a result of calcium (Ca) deficiency (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).

Deposits

The presence of a coating on leaves, shoots, or fruits is a sure sign of fungal disease.

• White, powdery coating: Powdery mildew (Podosphaera leucotricha). Affects leaves, shoots, and fruits. Initially appears on the upper side of young leaves, then may spread over the entire shoot (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).
• Sooty, black coating: This is not an independent disease but sooty mould, which develops on sticky secretions (honeydew) of aphids and other sucking pests (Buckingham, 2010). The mould itself is not dangerous, but it interferes with photosynthesis and is a signal of pest presence.
• Grey, fluffy coating: Grey mould (botrytis). Affects berries and fruits, especially in wet weather (Buckingham, 2010).

Deformations

Changes in the shape of leaves, shoots, and fruits are also important diagnostic signs.

• Leaf curling and crinkling:
• Young leaves curl into a tube and become sticky—symptom of aphid infestation (Buckingham, 2010).
• Leaves are deformed, crinkled, with yellow veins—boron (B) deficiency (Agustí, 2010; Тарасов, 1981).
• Small leaves and “rosetting”: Leaves at shoot tips become small, narrow, deformed, and gathered into a “rosette.” This is a classic sign of zinc (Zn) deficiency (Agustí, 2010; Тарасов, 1981).
• Shoot bending: Young shoots may bend into a “hook” when affected by fire blight (the “shepherd’s crook” symptom) (Buckingham, 2010).

Dieback (Necrosis)

Tissue death is an alarming signal that may indicate serious problems.

• Dieback of shoot tips: May be caused by zinc (Agustí, 2010) or copper starvation (Buckingham, 2010), as well as fungal diseases (Buckingham, 2010).
• Branch dieback (dieback): Can be caused by many factors: canker, cytospora canker, moniliosis, or root damage (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).
• Bark dieback: Appearance of dry, sunken areas of bark—symptom of canker (Buckingham, 2010; Тарасов, 1981).

Abscission (Falling)

Premature dropping of leaves, flowers, or fruits is a protective reaction of the tree to stress.

• Drop of young fruitlets (“June drop”): Often normal—the tree sheds fruits it cannot “support” (Тарасов, 1981). However, severe drop can be caused by lack of water, starvation, pest damage (sawfly, codling moth) (Buckingham, 2010).
• Summer leaf fall: Premature leaf fall in midsummer often indicates severe infestation by spider mites, rust, or scab (Buckingham, 2010).
• Pre‑harvest fruit drop: May be caused by heat and drought, as well as nutrient deficiency (Тарасов, 1981). It can also be a consequence of codling moth attack.

Cracks and Bark Damage

Any break in the integrity of the bark is a “gateway” for infection.

• Longitudinal bark cracks (frost cracks): Occur in winter during sharp temperature fluctuations. Fungal infection can then enter through these cracks, causing canker.
• Peeling bark, formation of swellings and wounds: Affected by canker (Buckingham, 2010).
• Small holes in the bark and traces of “flour‑like” dust: Sign of bark beetle activity (Buckingham, 2010).

Damage

• Tunnels, bites on fruits: Result of codling moth caterpillars, leafrollers, sawflies (Buckingham, 2010).
• Gnawed bark at the base of the trunk: Work of rodents (hares, mice) (Buckingham, 2010).

Remember the main rule: Never make a diagnosis based on a single symptom. Always consider them in combination. For example, pale leaves, thin growth, and small fruits may indicate both nitrogen deficiency and poor root development due to drought. Analyse the complete picture, and you will never be wrong.

Diseases

Diseases are the most frequent and dangerous cause of pear problems. They are caused by fungi, bacteria, and viruses.

Pests

Insects and mites can cause no less damage than diseases. Many of them are vectors of infections.

• Gnawing and sucking pests:
• Aphids: Small insects that suck sap from young leaves and shoots. Cause curling, deformation, and yellowing of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew, on which sooty mould grows (Buckingham, 2010).
• Pear psylla (Psylla pyri): A serious pear pest. Adults and larvae suck sap from leaves, shoots, and fruits. They excrete huge amounts of honeydew, which coats leaves and fruits. Leaves blacken and fall, fruits become small and hard (Mandal et al., 2021).
• Spider mites: Microscopic arachnids that cover leaves with fine webbing. They feed on sap, causing yellowing, wilting, and leaf drop. Especially active in dry, hot weather (Buckingham, 2010).
• Pear sawfly (pear slug sawfly): Sawfly larvae skeletonise leaves, eating the flesh between veins (Buckingham, 2010).
• Fruit pests:
• Codling moth (apple and oriental): Caterpillars bore tunnels in fruits, making them inedible. The entry hole is surrounded by dark excrement (“frass”) (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).
• Blossom weevil: Gnaws buds and flowers, damages ovaries.
• Trunk pests:
• Bark beetles: Beetles that bore tunnels under the bark and into the wood. Characteristic signs: small holes on the bark and brownish “flour‑like” dust (excrement mixed with sawdust). Weakened trees die (Buckingham, 2010).

Nutritional Disorders (Element Deficiencies)

Often the tree looks outwardly healthy, but grows poorly, does not bear fruit, or has atypical leaf colour. This may be due to a lack of mineral elements (Agustí, 2010; Westwood, 1993). Remember: deficiency is easier to prevent than to cure. Regular balanced fertilisation is the best prevention.

• Nitrogen (N): General depression, pale green and yellow small leaves, thin shoots, weak flowering. Old leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).
• Phosphorus (P): Leaves become dull green, sometimes with a purplish or bronze tint. Flowering and fruiting are weakened. Shoots ripen poorly (Agustí, 2010; Westwood, 1993).
• Potassium (K): Old leaves turn yellow at the margins, margins dry out (“marginal scorch”). Leaves may curl. Fruits become small, and their storage quality deteriorates (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).
• Magnesium (Mg): Interveinal chlorosis on old leaves (veins green, tissue between them turns yellow). Symptoms appear first on lower, older leaves (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).
• Calcium (Ca): Young leaves become light, almost white, deformed. Tip necrosis appears. Fruits develop bitter pit (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).
• Iron (Fe): Interveinal chlorosis on young, apical leaves. Veins remain green on a bright yellow background (Buckingham, 2010; Agustí, 2010). Occurs on alkaline soils.
• Boron (B): Young leaves are deformed, crinkled. Fruits are misshapen, may have corky areas. Shoot growing points die (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).
• Zinc (Zn): Small leaves, narrow, deformed, gathered into a “rosette” at shoot tips. Internodes shortened (Agustí, 2010; Тарасов, 1981).

Weather Conditions and Care Mistakes

External factors are often triggers for disease development or tree weakening.

• Frosts (spring): Damage opened buds, flowers, and ovaries. Flowers turn brown and drop. Frost cracks on bark—cracks that occur in winter during sharp temperature fluctuations (Buckingham, 2010).
• Drought: Lack of moisture causes leaf wilting, yellowing, and drop. Fruits become smaller and fall. The tree weakens and becomes vulnerable to diseases and pests (Buckingham, 2010; Westwood, 1993).
• Waterlogging (stagnant water): Roots suffocate and begin to rot. Above‑ground parts show wilting symptoms, leaves turn yellow (chlorosis) because roots cannot absorb nutrients (Тарасов, 1981).
• Sunscald: In spring, when the bark is still cold and the sun is already strong, burns may appear on the trunk and southern side of branches—dry, discoloured areas of bark that later crack (Тарасов, 1981).
• Mechanical damage: Bark wounds (e.g., from a lawnmower), broken branches—all are “entry gates” for infection (Buckingham, 2010).
• Rodent damage: In winter, mice and hares can gnaw bark at the base of the trunk, which can lead to tree death (Buckingham, 2010).
• Improper planting: Deep planting of the root collar is a common cause of depression and death of pear (Тарасов, 1981).

Key takeaway: Success in solving a problem depends on how accurately you can match symptoms to causes. Use tables and keys found in specialised literature. But most importantly, do not try to treat what you do not know. A wrong diagnosis will not only fail to help but may also cause harm.

Rapid Spread of Symptoms

The speed at which a disease or pest spreads is one of the main criteria for urgency. If you notice that the problem is engulfing new parts of the tree literally within a few days, this is a serious cause for concern.

• Fire blight (Erwinia amylovora)—the main threat: This disease spreads at lightning speed. If you see that flowers and young shoots are turning black and wilting, and then this phenomenon moves to older branches—you must act immediately (Buckingham, 2010; Трунов, 2012).
• What to do: As early as possible, preferably the same day, remove all infected shoots, cutting 20–30 cm of healthy wood below the last sign of wilting. Disinfect your tools after each cut (e.g., with alcohol or a potassium permanganate solution). Burn the infected parts. In case of severe spread, treatment with copper‑containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture) at the green cone stage or after flowering may be needed, but this is more preventive than curative.

• Massive leaf and branch dieback: If within 1–2 weeks you observe widespread yellowing and drying of foliage, and then of entire branches, this may indicate root system infection (e.g., phytophthora) or a rapidly developing vascular disease (verticillium wilt) (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).

Damage to the Trunk and Root Collar

The trunk and root collar are the tree’s “highways” through which water and nutrients move. Their damage is often fatal.

• Ring damage to the bark (complete or nearly complete): If the bark on the trunk is damaged around the entire circumference—it is a death sentence. The tree loses connection between roots and crown and is doomed (Buckingham, 2010).
• Causes: These can be mechanical damage (e.g., from a lawnmower), winter sunscald, frost cracks, or, most often, rodent damage (hares, mice) in winter (Buckingham, 2010; Тарасов, 1981).
• What to do: If the damage is incomplete (less than 50% of the circumference), you can try to save the tree with a “bridge” graft in spring (Тарасов, 1981). This is a complex procedure, but it may give a chance. If the bark is ring‑damaged—the tree can only be cut down.

• Deep cracks and ulcers on the trunk: Cracks that go deep into the wood, or large sunken wounds (cankerous ulcers), also require immediate intervention. They weaken the tree and can cause death by dieback.
• What to do: Wounds should be cleaned back to healthy wood (remove all dead bark with a sharp knife), disinfected (3‑5% copper sulphate solution), and covered with a special tree wound dressing (grafting wax, “Rannet” paste). Large hollows are best filled with cement mixed with sand (Тарасов, 1981).

Massive Crown Dieback (Dieback)

If the problem is not limited to a few branches but affects a significant part of the crown, this indicates a systemic issue.

• Why it is dangerous: Massive dieback means the tree is losing its leaf surface, cannot accumulate nutrients, and consequently dies. This can be caused by diseases (canker, cytospora, fire blight), as well as root damage or bark beetles (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).
• What to do:
• Immediately prune and burn all dead branches. This will prevent further spread of infection.
• Carefully inspect the trunk and bark. If you find bark beetle holes—the tree is unlikely to be saved. It must be urgently cut down and burned to prevent infection of neighbouring trees.
• If the bark is clean but dieback is progressing—this indicates a serious problem with the vascular system. Apply systemic fungicides (preparations that penetrate tissues) at recommended doses, and be sure to carry out comprehensive strengthening: enhanced watering and fertilisation.

Root and Root Collar Infection

These problems are often “hidden” and manifest only when the tree is already on the verge of death.

• Urgency symptoms:
• The tree wilts sharply in hot weather, even with sufficient watering.
• Wet, dark areas appear at the base of the trunk, bark peels off.
• Mushrooms (honey fungus) appear around the trunk (Buckingham, 2010).
• What to do: If you suspect root rot, the only chance is to dig out the root collar, clean it of rot, treat with fungicides, and, if possible, improve drainage (e.g., divert water away from the tree with ditches). Unfortunately, in late stages, the tree cannot be saved (Mandal et al., 2021).

Signs of Tree Death

There are situations when fighting is useless. Signs that the tree is in a terminal stage:

• More than 70% of the crown is bare in midsummer.
• Nearly all scaffold branches are completely dry.
• Massive trunk infestation by bark beetles.
• Complete ring damage to the bark on the trunk.

In such cases, your main task is to urgently cut down and destroy the tree (burn it) to rid the garden of the source of infection, which could spread to neighbouring trees (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).

Emergency Action Algorithm

To avoid confusion in a critical moment, follow this simple algorithm:

1. Stop and assess: Step back a few steps and assess the scale of the disaster. How quickly is the problem spreading?

2. Isolate: Immediately remove and burn all affected parts (branches, leaves, fruits, bark) to stop the spread of infection or pest. This is the most important first‑aid measure.

3. Confirm the diagnosis: Try to accurately determine the cause using the methods described in previous chapters. This will determine the further strategy.

4. Apply emergency measures:

• Diseases: Treat the tree with an appropriate fungicide (copper‑based for bacterial diseases, systemic for fungal diseases).
• Pests: Apply insecticides or acaricides (for mites).
• Care issues: Urgently adjust watering, apply necessary fertilisers.
• Remember safety: Always work in protective gloves, mask, and goggles. Follow the instructions for the products used.
• Do not give up: If part of the tree has been saved, provide supportive therapy throughout the season (regular fertilisation, watering, treatments with stimulants).

Remember: The best treatment is prevention. Regular tree inspection, timely pruning, proper watering, and balanced nutrition—these are what make your pear strong and resilient to any adversity. Use this knowledge as a tool to maintain the health of your garden, and it will reward you with generous harvests.