Features of growing everbearing raspberries

Last updated: July 20, 2026 Español Русский

1. What Is Remontancy

For a gardener used to classic raspberries, remontant varieties can seem almost magical. Imagine a plant that flowers and bears fruit on canes that grew just a few months ago. This is the main secret of remontancy, and to successfully grow such raspberries, we need to understand how it works.

1.1. The Main Difference: Not Two Years, but One

For most familiar raspberry varieties (called summer-bearing or floricanes), the cane life cycle takes two years (Yaroslavtsev, 2003; Rieger, 2010).

  • First year: A green shoot emerges from the ground (a replacement shoot or sucker). It gains strength, grows foliage, but does not flower. This is a primocane.
  • Second year: The overwintered cane becomes a floricane. From its buds, fruiting laterals grow in spring, on which buds, flowers, and berries form. After fruiting, this stem dies.

Remontant varieties (often called fall-bearing, primocane-fruiting, or more recently, rushbush) follow a different principle. Their uniqueness lies in their ability to set flower buds and bear fruit on the current year's canes, in their very first year of life (Weber, 2013; Dankov, 2015).

This means that a cane that just began growing in spring turns into a fruiting plant by late summer. Its life cycle fits into a single season. As the Russian scientist E. I. Yaroslavtsev noted, breeders aimed to create plants in which "the development cycle from the start of shoot growth to ripening of the crop fits into one season" (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).

1.2. Remontancy Is Not "Magic", but a Genetic Trait

The ability to bear fruit on young canes is a genetically fixed property. Moreover, the expression of this trait can vary among different varieties. Some varieties (e.g., the old variety 'Progress') produce a small autumn crop only at the very top of the cane (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). Others, more modern ones (such as 'Indian Summer', 'Hercules', 'Augustina'), form fruiting laterals along the entire length of the cane, allowing for a full harvest (Dankov, 2015; Yaroslavtsev, 2003).

In English-language literature, such intensively fruiting varieties are sometimes grouped separately as rushbush (or rushberry), emphasizing their rapid development (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). However, for practical gardening, it is important to remember the key principle: remontant raspberries can produce a crop on one-year-old canes, and this fundamentally changes the approach to their cultivation.

1.3. What Is the Main Advantage for the Gardener

Understanding the one- or two-year cycle gives us the key to managing the harvest. The main advantage of remontant varieties is flexibility. The gardener can choose a strategy themselves:

  • Get two harvests per season: a small summer crop (on overwintered canes) and a main autumn crop (on young canes).
  • Or get one, but very abundant and high-quality autumn crop, completely removing all canes after fruiting.

This also helps solve many problems inherent in common raspberries: combating diseases and pests, and the problem of overwintering complex and tall canes (Martin, 2019). That is why remontant varieties are becoming increasingly popular among gardeners worldwide, especially in regions with short but warm summers or mild winters.

In the next chapter, we will analyze in detail how the life cycle of a remontant raspberry is structured and how this knowledge helps to obtain stable yields.

2. Life Cycle Features

To manage a plant, not just observe it, it is important to understand its internal calendar. The life cycle of a remontant raspberry is not just "it grows faster"; it is a completely different strategy for survival and fruiting.

2.1. Primocanes and Floricanes: An Inside Look

As we have already established, in remontant varieties, unlike ordinary ones, first-year canes — primocanes — can bear fruit (Rieger, 2010). This process is controlled by hormones, and the key point here is the initiation (setting) of flower buds.

  • In summer-bearing varieties (floricanes): Flower buds on the cane are set by late summer of the first year, but they pass through a period of winter dormancy. Only in the spring of the second year do they start to grow and produce flowers and berries. Without this cold period (stratification), there will be no flowering.
  • In remontant varieties (primocane-fruiting): Flower bud initiation occurs in the same year, in summer, on the growing cane. They do not need a long dormant period for this (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). They immediately transition from vegetative growth to the reproductive phase. This allows them to fit the entire cycle into one warm season. Modern breeders (especially in Russia, e.g., I. V. Kazakov) have developed varieties in which this process occurs so intensively that fruiting laterals form along almost the entire length of the cane (Dankov, 2015).

2.2. Phenology: From Shoot to Berry in One Season

For the practical gardener, the entire process of turning a tiny sprout into a fruiting bush can be divided into several key stages.

Stage What Happens Notes for the Gardener
Spring (start of growth) New canes (primocanes) emerge from the ground and grow rapidly in height. In remontant varieties, the formation of suckers (shoots from roots) is often weaker than in summer varieties, and the bulk of the canes are replacement shoots from the rhizome (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
Summer (bud initiation) This is the most important stage. On the cane, which has already reached a certain height, flower buds begin to form. In the earliest and "fastest" varieties (rushbush group), this happens in early to mid-summer. Good lighting and nutrition are very important during this period, as the future harvest is being set.
Late summer – early autumn (flowering and fruiting) The upper buds of the cane open first. Flowers open sequentially, from top to bottom, and berries also begin to ripen from the upper part of the cane. The period from flowering to berry ripening averages 30–45 days (Rieger, 2010; Dankov, 2015). The total duration of fruiting can be very long — right up to frost.

2.3. What Happens to the Cane After Fruiting?

After the primocane bears fruit in autumn, it dies, just like in ordinary varieties. This is where the main practical conclusion lies:

  • If we leave the cane for winter, then in the second year, new fruiting laterals will grow from the lower, overwintered buds, and we will get another (summer) harvest. But this harvest will not be as abundant as the main autumn one, and the cane itself will no longer be as strong.
  • If we cut the fruited cane to the ground in autumn, we get rid of it completely. The following spring, new canes will grow from the ground, which will set buds in summer and again produce a crop by autumn.

This is the key understanding: we ourselves choose whether our plant is "annual" or "biennial." Moreover, in regions with frosty winters, where the above-ground part of the raspberry freezes in winter, annual removal of canes is not just an agronomic technique but a way to protect the crop and ensure its stable fruiting. As Martin writes in his book on organic gardening, a proper understanding of the life cycle allows us to change the very paradigm of care: instead of fighting the consequences of winter damage, we simply restart the system every year (Martin, 2019).

To summarize: The life cycle of a remontant raspberry is a vivid example of adaptation. Knowing these features, the gardener gains a tool for managing the harvest. He himself decides whether he wants to get two harvests (summer and autumn) or focus on one powerful, high-quality autumn yield. The choice depends on the climate, goals, and the time we are willing to devote to the plant.

In the next chapter, we will analyze in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of these approaches and help you make the right decision.

3. One Harvest or Two?

This is perhaps the most important question facing a gardener who decides to plant remontant raspberries. The ability to choose is the main advantage of these varieties, but it also requires understanding the trade-offs.

3.1. Two Harvests: The Classic Strategy

This approach assumes that we leave the fruited canes for winter to get another harvest from them the following summer.

How it works: In autumn, we harvest from the upper part of the canes. In winter, these canes are preserved. The following spring, fruiting laterals grow from buds located in the lower and middle parts of these same stems. From them, we get the summer harvest. At the same time, new young canes grow from the ground, which will produce their harvest by autumn.

  • Advantages:
  • Maximum return from the plant: We use the cane's potential 100%, getting berries twice a season.
  • Extended harvest season: Fresh berries can be collected from early summer (from overwintered canes) to late autumn (from young canes), which is very convenient for family consumption and farms focused on long-term sales (Yaroslavtsev, 2003; Dankov, 2015).
  • Disadvantages:
  • Reduced quality of the autumn harvest: The plant is forced to divide its resources between old fruiting stems and growing young canes. As a result, the illumination and nutrition of the new canes deteriorate, causing the autumn harvest to be smaller and the berries to be smaller.
  • More complicated care: The bush simultaneously contains old fruiting stems and young canes. This makes pest and disease control difficult, as chemical treatments during flowering and fruiting are limited (Dankov, 2015). In addition, old stems create shade and hinder ventilation, which can provoke the development of fungal diseases.
  • Risk of winter damage: In regions with frosty winters, overwintered canes may freeze, and the summer harvest will be lost or significantly reduced (Martin, 2019). In harsh climates, this risk becomes unjustified.

3.2. One Harvest: A Modern and Reliable Strategy (Annual Renewal)

This strategy is the most popular among modern gardeners and farmers. Its essence is to get only one, but maximally powerful, harvest on the current year's canes.

How it works: After autumn frosts kill the above-ground part or after the entire crop has been harvested, all canes are cut to the ground. In spring, new, strong canes grow from the ground, which during the summer receive maximum light, nutrition, and moisture, as they do not need to compete with old stems.

Advantages:

  • Maximum quality and yield: The harvest ripens uniformly, the berries are larger and sweeter, as all the plant's resources are directed towards their formation (Dankov, 2015). Research shows that productivity can be 2–2.5 times higher compared to the two-harvest scheme (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
  • Ease of care and harvesting: There is no need for complex pruning of overwintered stems, staking, and combating thickening. Bushes can be formed more compactly, making berry picking easier.
  • Environmentally friendly: The absence of old canes, where pests and pathogens (e.g., gall midge, spider mite, purple blotch) can overwinter, allows significantly reducing or even completely eliminating the use of pesticides (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). Many diseases, such as gray mold and verticillium wilt, primarily affect overwintered stems.
  • Reliability in cold regions: This method is ideal for regions with harsh winters, where ordinary raspberries often freeze out. With annual removal of the above-ground part, we simply remove what would not survive the winter anyway, and in spring we get healthy canes.

Disadvantages:

  • One, albeit abundant, harvest per year: The berry picking period falls at the end of summer – autumn. There will be no berries at the beginning of the season.
  • Need for additional nutrition: Intensive growth of canes and powerful fruiting require more nutrients, so regular fertilizing is essential.

3.3. Influence of Climate on Strategy Choice

Climate is the main factor determining the choice of strategy.

Regions with short but warm summers (North-West Russia, the Urals, Siberia, Scandinavia): The one-harvest strategy is unequivocally recommended. Here, it is important that the canes have time to grow and set flower buds during the short day length. Removing old canes ensures the plant has maximum resources for rapid development and also eliminates the risk of underprepared canes freezing in winter.

Regions with a long warm season and mild winters (Southern Russia, the Black Sea region, Central Asia, Southern Europe): Here you can try the two-harvest strategy. The summer harvest will be guaranteed, as the canes will overwinter well. However, even in this case, many commercial producers prefer the one-harvest technology to obtain the highest quality product in a short time, especially for freezing.

Regions with hot summers (subtropics, Mediterranean): For remontant raspberries, extreme heat is a stress that can reduce berry quality (Weber, 2013). Under such conditions, the choice of strategy may be related to shifting the peak of fruiting to the cooler autumn period. Consequently, the one-harvest strategy is often preferable here, as the harvest occurs in autumn.

To summarize: The choice between one and two harvests is not a matter of "right or wrong," but a matter of your goals and climatic conditions. If your goal is to diversify your summer table with fresh berries as much as possible and you have enough strength for care, choose two harvests. If you want to get a guaranteed and high-quality harvest for preserves or sales, and you also live in a region with an unstable climate, your choice is annual renewal.

In the next chapter, we will look at how the crop is formed on the current year's canes and how to manage this process.

4. Features of Crop Formation

The harvest of remontant raspberries is not an accident but the result of a clearly organized process that we can direct. Understanding exactly how a cane turns into a fruiting branch allows us to make the right decisions throughout the season.

4.1. From Bud to Fruiting Lateral: Stages of Development

Crop formation in remontant varieties goes through several key stages, and each of them requires attention.

Stage 1: Vegetative growth of the cane. In spring, a shoot (primocane) emerges from the ground and grows in height and leaf mass over the first few weeks. During this period, the foundation of the future harvest is laid: the more powerful and healthier the cane, the more nodes it will have, and therefore, more flower buds. This is why good nutrition and watering at the beginning of the season are so important.

Stage 2: Flower bud initiation. This is a turning point. Unlike summer varieties, in which flower buds are set only after a dormant period, in remontant raspberries this occurs in mid-summer on growing canes (Weber, 2013; Yaroslavtsev, 2003). The speed and completeness of bud initiation depend on several factors:

  • Day length and temperature: Most remontant varieties respond to day length. As a rule, bud initiation accelerates with decreasing day length (second half of summer), so the peak of flowering and fruiting occurs at the end of summer – autumn (Dankov, 2015).
  • Lighting: In the shade, the process of bud initiation slows down, and the buds themselves are weak. Therefore, remontant raspberries require a maximally sunny location.
  • Nutrition: It is during this period that the plant especially needs phosphorus and potassium, which are responsible for flowering and fruiting. Excess nitrogen, on the contrary, can stimulate leaf growth at the expense of flower bud initiation.

Stage 3: Flowering and ripening. After the buds are set, they begin to open — first at the top of the cane, then gradually downward. The flowers are gathered in clusters (inflorescences), and flowering also proceeds from top to bottom. The period from flowering to berry ripening is 30–45 days (Rieger, 2010). Berry ripening occurs sequentially, so the harvest period can be stretched over several weeks.

4.2. Factors Determining the Quality and Quantity of the Harvest

Crop formation is influenced not only by internal mechanisms but also by external conditions. Here are the key points to pay attention to.

Shoot-forming ability. It varies among different varieties. For example, varieties with very low shoot-forming ability (e.g., 'Kaliningradskaya', 'Tarusa') produce few canes, but they are powerful, and the harvest on them is larger. Varieties with high shoot-forming ability (e.g., 'Lazarevskaya', 'Kirzhach') have many canes, but they may be thinner, and the fruits are smaller (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). For remontant raspberries grown in a one-crop system, varieties with a moderate number of strong canes are considered optimal so that each receives enough resources.

Timely cane thinning. If there are too many canes, they compete for light, water, and nutrition. This leads to:

  • Canes stretching out and becoming thin.
  • Flower bud initiation is weaker.
  • Berries become smaller, and their ripening time is extended.

Recommendation: Leave 10–15 of the strongest canes per 1 meter of row, and remove the rest when they reach a height of 5–10 cm (Yaroslavtsev, 2003; Dankov, 2015). This will allow all the plant's resources to be directed toward forming a quality harvest.

Effect of tipping (pinching). In some remontant varieties, especially those with high shoot-forming ability, summer tipping of the shoot tips is used when they reach a height of 60–90 cm. This stimulates the awakening of lateral buds and the formation of additional fruiting laterals (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). However, this technique is not always necessary and depends on the variety. For modern "rushbush" varieties, tipping is often not required, as they branch themselves and bear fruit abundantly along the entire length of the cane.

4.3. Features of Ripening and Harvesting

Knowing how the crop is formed makes it easier to plan harvesting.

  • Sequential ripening: On one cane, berries do not ripen simultaneously. First the upper ones, then the middle ones, and finally the lower ones. Therefore, harvesting must be done regularly — every 2–3 days during the peak of fruiting.
  • Long shelf life on the bush: In many remontant varieties, even overripe berries do not fall off for a long time and do not lose their marketable appearance (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). This is very convenient for gardeners who cannot harvest every day.
  • Weather influence: In cloudy or rainy weather, berries ripen more slowly, and their taste may be less sweet. In hot and dry weather, ripening times are shortened, but berries may become smaller.

To summarize: Crop formation in remontant raspberries is a manageable process. The main thing is to provide the canes with sufficient space, light, and nutrition, especially during the period of flower bud initiation (mid-summer). Timely cane thinning is a key technique for obtaining large and sweet berries. And, of course, the correct choice of a variety adapted to your climate largely determines success.

In the next chapter, we will move on to practical cultivation principles and answer the question of how to properly establish a plantation and care for it to maximize the potential of remontant raspberries.

5. Basic Principles of Cultivation

To make the most of remontant raspberries, it is important to lay the right foundation. Success begins with choosing a site and proper planting, and continues with competent care throughout the season. In this chapter, we will discuss the key principles that work in any region.

5.1. Annual Renewal: The Main Agronomic Practice

As we discussed in Chapter 3, the strategy of obtaining one powerful autumn harvest is the choice of most modern gardeners and farmers. Its essence is the annual complete removal of the above-ground part.

How it works: After autumn frosts kill the foliage (or after the entire harvest is collected, if frosts come late), all canes are cut at ground level. The cut mass is removed from the site or burned to destroy possible pests and pathogens (Yaroslavtsev, 2003; Dankov, 2015).

Why it is needed:

  • Pest and disease control: Many pathogens (fungi, viruses) and pests (e.g., cane gall midge, raspberry fly, spider mite) overwinter in the stems. By removing the above-ground part, we break their reproductive cycle (Dankov, 2015). As the authors of the textbook "Fruit Growing" note, this is one of the most effective preventive measures in combating infections (Krivko, 2014).
  • Easier wintering: In regions with frosty winters, there is no need to bend down and cover the canes — they will be cut anyway. This saves time and effort and also guarantees that in spring the plants will start growing healthy.
  • Stimulation of growth: In spring, the root system directs all stored nutrients to grow new, powerful canes that will produce an abundant harvest (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).

Important clarification: If you decide to get two harvests, the canes are not cut in autumn. In this case, care more closely resembles the care of ordinary summer raspberries: old fruited canes (the tops that produced the autumn harvest) are removed in spring, and the remaining part of the stem is tied to a support for the summer harvest.

5.2. Site Selection and Soil Preparation

Remontant raspberries are a demanding crop, but they respond well to good care.

  • Light: This is the key requirement. Remontant raspberries should receive maximum sunlight throughout the day. In the shade, flower bud initiation slows down, canes stretch out, berries become smaller and less sweet (Martin, 2019; Dankov, 2015). The site should be protected from cold winds but at the same time well-ventilated to prevent moisture stagnation.
  • Soil: Fertile, loose, well-drained soils with a pH of 5.6–6.7 (slightly acidic) are optimal (Rieger, 2010; Yaroslavtsev, 2003). Raspberries do not tolerate stagnant water — roots begin to rot, and phytophthora develops.
  • Predecessors: It is not recommended to plant raspberries after plants of the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants) and strawberries, as they share common diseases (in particular, verticillium wilt) and pests (Rieger, 2010; Cornell Guide, 2003). The best predecessors are legumes (peas, beans, lupine), green manures (mustard, phacelia), or fallow.
  • Soil preparation: It is carried out at least a year before planting. The site is dug over to the depth of a spade, removing weeds, especially perennial ones (couch grass, sow thistle). Organic fertilizers (manure, compost) are applied at the rate of 10–15 kg per 1 m², as well as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers according to recommendations for your soil type (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). If the soil is acidic, liming is carried out (dolomite flour or lime is added).

5.3. Planting and Spacing

Proper planting is the key to rapid development and abundant fruiting.

  • Planting dates: In regions with warm autumn, you can plant in September–October. In colder regions, spring planting (April–May) is preferred, when the threat of frost has passed (Cornell Guide, 2003). Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted throughout the season.
  • Planting scheme: With a one-harvest strategy, you can plant more densely than ordinary raspberries, as the bush is formed from current year's canes.
  • Row method (for farms and large plots): Distance between rows 1.5–2 meters, between plants in a row — 0.5–0.7 meters (Yaroslavtsev, 2003; Dankov, 2015).
  • Clump method (for small plots): Bushes are planted according to a 1.5 x 1.5 meter scheme (or 1.5 x 1.0 m). 2–3 seedlings can be planted in one hole to create a more powerful bush (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
  • Planting depth: The root collar (the place where the roots transition into the stem) should be at ground level. Deep planting can lead to rotting, while shallow planting can lead to drying out of the roots (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). After planting, water abundantly (at least 5–10 liters of water per plant) and mulch the root circle with peat, humus, or cut grass with a layer of 5–8 cm. Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weed growth, and protects roots from overheating.

5.4. Heat Requirements and Season Length

This is a key factor determining how successfully remontant raspberries will realize their potential in your region.

  • Sum of active temperatures: For remontant raspberries to have time to grow, set flower buds, and produce a crop, they need a certain sum of active temperatures (above +10 °C). For most remontant varieties, the beginning of flowering occurs at a sum of active temperatures of 700–1000 °C, and the beginning of ripening at 1500–2000 °C (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
  • Growing season length: From the moment canes emerge in spring to the onset of persistent autumn frosts, at least 120–150 days must pass. In regions with short summers (northern areas), choose the earliest varieties (e.g., 'Indian Summer', 'Augustina'), whose crop ripens before the cold weather.
  • Cold adaptation: In regions with harsh winters, annual removal of canes not only facilitates care but also allows the cultivation of varieties that are not sufficiently winter-hardy themselves. Only the root system overwinters, which withstands much lower temperatures than the above-ground part (Dankov, 2015).
  • Accelerating ripening: In cool regions, temporary film covers in early spring can be used to accelerate ripening, or raspberries can be planted in warm, well-warmed areas (e.g., on the south side of buildings) (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).

5.5. Care During the Season: Fertilizing, Watering, Training

  • Watering: Raspberries are moisture-loving but do not tolerate stagnant water. Watering is especially important during the period of active cane growth (May–June) and berry filling (August). In arid regions, regular watering is necessary, preferably drip irrigation or along furrows. The watering rate is 30–50 liters per 1 m² of row (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
  • Fertilizing:
  • Spring (start of growth): Main emphasis on nitrogen fertilizers (urea, ammonium nitrate) — 8–10 g/m². Nitrogen stimulates the growth of powerful canes.
  • Mid-summer (flower bud initiation): Apply a complete complex fertilizer (N:P:K) or focus on phosphorus and potassium to stimulate flowering and fruiting. Foliar feeding with micronutrients works well.
  • Autumn (after cutting the canes): Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied during digging to set flower buds for the next year and strengthen the root system (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
  • Loosening and mulching: The soil in the rows is regularly loosened to a small depth (5–8 cm) to avoid damaging the surface roots. Mulching (with peat, sawdust, straw) helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and improves soil structure.
  • Cane thinning: As mentioned in Chapter 4, at the beginning of summer (when the canes reach 10–15 cm), leave 10–15 of the strongest canes per 1 meter of row, and cut out the rest. This will ensure a quality harvest (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).
  • Staking (trellis): Even in upright varieties, canes can bend under the weight of the crop. Therefore, for remontant raspberries, especially when grown in regions with winds or rain, it is recommended to install a trellis: one or two rows of wire at a height of 1.2–1.5 meters, to which the canes are tied (Cornell Guide, 2003; Rieger, 2010).

5.6. Wintering (with the Two-Harvest Strategy)

If you choose the two-harvest strategy, the canes need to be preserved for winter.

  • In regions with frosty winters: The canes are bent to the ground and covered with snow. This is done before the onset of severe cold, while the canes are still flexible (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). On top, you can additionally cover with non-woven material (spunbond) or spruce branches for snow retention.
  • In regions with mild winters: The canes are left on the support, but sanitary pruning is carried out, removing weak and damaged ones.

To summarize: The basic principles of growing remontant raspberries boil down to a few key rules: good lighting, fertile and well-drained soil, a proper planting scheme, regular watering and fertilizing, and timely cane thinning. Annual removal of fruited canes (or the one-harvest strategy) is the most reliable and effective method, especially in regions with unstable climates. Following these simple rules will allow you to obtain stable and abundant harvests of large, sweet berries.

In the next, final chapter, we will summarize and answer the question: for which conditions is remontant raspberry best suited and how to choose the optimal strategy for your region.

6. For Which Conditions Is Remontant Raspberry Best Suited

Remontant raspberry is a surprisingly flexible crop, but for it to truly reach its potential, it is important that your site conditions and goals align with its biological characteristics. In this chapter, we will help you understand whether this crop is right for you and which strategy to choose.

6.1. Climate Zones: Where Remontant Raspberry Feels at Home

Regions with short but warm summers (North-West Russia, the Urals, Siberia, Scandinavia, northern US states, Canada):

  • Verdict: Remontant raspberry is an ideal choice. Here, it often outperforms ordinary summer varieties, which may freeze or fail to ripen in time.
  • Why: The short growing season and early frosts prevent ordinary raspberries from producing a stable crop. Remontant raspberries, grown as annuals, manage to complete their full cycle during the warm season (Yaroslavtsev, 2003). Annual cane removal solves the wintering problem, and the powerful autumn harvest ripens due to intensive summer growth.
  • Recommendation: Choose the earliest varieties (e.g., 'Indian Summer', 'Augustina', 'Polka', 'Himbo Top'), use techniques to accelerate ripening (black mulching film to warm the soil, installing arches with covering material in early spring, placing on southern slopes). Strategy — only one autumn harvest (annual renewal).

Regions with long, warm, and humid summers (Central Russia, Eastern Europe, northeastern US):

  • Verdict: Remontant raspberry is excellent, especially for gardeners who value ease of care and high berry quality.
  • Why: There is enough heat for the full ripening of the autumn crop. At the same time, high humidity and frequent rains contribute to the spread of fungal diseases in ordinary summer varieties. Annual removal of canes in remontant varieties allows breaking the disease cycle and obtaining an environmentally friendly harvest without frequent treatments (Dankov, 2015; Krivko, 2014).
  • Recommendation: You can choose both the one- and two-harvest strategy, but priority is given to the one-harvest as more reliable and of higher quality. Choose varieties resistant to fungal diseases and well adapted to your region.

Regions with hot, dry summers and mild winters (Southern Russia, Black Sea region, Central Asia, Mediterranean, California):

  • Verdict: Remontant raspberry is suitable for cultivation, but requires special attention, especially regarding irrigation.
  • Why: Extreme heat (above +30 °C) suppresses plants, slows down flower bud initiation, and berries can "bake" in the sun (Weber, 2013). However, the long growing season allows for very abundant autumn harvests when the heat subsides.
  • Recommendation: Ensure mandatory drip irrigation to prevent roots from drying out. Use mulching to protect roots from overheating. To protect from scorching sun, light shading during the hottest hours can be used. In mild climates, the two-harvest strategy can be applied, but the autumn harvest will still be the main one.

Regions with cold summers and early frosts (highlands, polar regions):

  • Verdict: Remontant raspberry can be grown, but only with the use of covers.
  • Why: There may not be enough heat even for the earliest remontant varieties.
  • Recommendation: Use raised beds for better soil warming, plant raspberries in unheated greenhouses or under film covers in early spring. Strategy — one autumn harvest with mandatory growth acceleration.

6.2. Soil Type and Site Conditions: What Is Needed for Success

  • Light: This is an absolute requirement. Remontant raspberry should receive at least 6–8 hours of sun per day. Even partial shade reduces yields by 2–3 times.
  • Soil: Light and medium loams with good drainage are ideal. Heavy clay soils, as well as areas with high groundwater levels, are unsuitable without prior drainage or planting on raised beds (Rieger, 2010; Cornell Guide, 2003). Soil acidity (pH) should be in the range of 5.5–6.7.
  • Wind protection: The site should be protected from cold winds, but at the same time well-ventilated. Stagnation of humid air promotes disease development, while strong winds can break canes, especially during fruiting (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).

6.3. Growing Strategies Depending on the Gardener's Goals

Your choice of strategy depends on what you want to achieve.

Your Goal Recommended Strategy
Get maximum berries for preserves (jam, compotes, freezing) One autumn harvest with annual renewal. This will provide the most abundant and high-quality harvest in a short time, convenient for processing.
Have fresh berries from early summer to autumn for family consumption Two harvests. You will get a small summer harvest on overwintered canes and an abundant autumn harvest on young ones. However, care will be more difficult, and the autumn harvest will be smaller.
Minimize labor costs for raspberry care One autumn harvest. Minimum pruning (single cutting to the ground in autumn), no need to bend canes for winter or treat for diseases.
Grow raspberries in extreme climatic conditions (harsh winters, short summers) One autumn harvest. This is the only reliable way to get a harvest, as overwintered canes often die in such conditions.
Obtain an environmentally friendly harvest without pesticides One autumn harvest. Removing canes in autumn destroys most of the overwintering pests and pathogens, so the need for chemical treatments is significantly reduced (Yaroslavtsev, 2003).

To summarize: Remontant raspberry is a crop that offers the gardener unique flexibility. It is suitable for a wide variety of climatic zones: from harsh northern regions to hot southern ones. The key success factor is the correct choice of strategy and variety adapted to your conditions. If you value ease of care, high berry quality, and reliable harvests, your choice is the one-harvest strategy. If you want to extend the fresh berry consumption season and are willing to put in a bit more effort, the two-harvest strategy will give you that opportunity.

In any case, remontant raspberry is a rewarding crop that generously rewards proper care. We hope this article helps you make an informed choice and enjoy delicious and healthy berries for many years.

Conclusion

Remontant raspberry is a true breakthrough in the gardening world. Its ability to bear fruit on first-year canes opens up new opportunities for gardeners, allowing for stable, high-quality harvests in a variety of climatic conditions. Understanding the life cycle features, making a wise choice of strategy (one or two harvests), and following basic agronomic principles are the keys to success. This crop not only delights with tasty and healthy berries but also gives the gardener a sense of control and confidence in the future. Grow remontant raspberries with pleasure and enjoy the fruits of your labor!

References

  1. (2003). ‘Brambles’, in Cornell Guide to Growing Fruit at Home. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Cooperative Extension, pp. 65-76.
  2. Martin, O. (2019). ‘Pruning and Training Pome and Stone Fruit Trees’, in Fruit Trees for Every Garden. New York: The Speed Press, ch. 6.
  3. Rieger, M. (2010). ‘Blackberry and Raspberry (Rubus spp.)’, in Introduction to Fruit Crops. New York, NY: Food Products Press, pp. 89-104.
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  7. Ярославцев, Е.И. (2003). ‘Биологические особенности [Biological features]’, in Малина и ежевика [Raspberries and blackberries]. Москва: Издательский дом МСП, pp. 9-14.
  8. Ярославцев, Е.И. (2003). ‘Возделывание малины и ежевики [Cultivation of raspberries and blackberries]’, in Малина и ежевика [Raspberries and blackberries]. Москва: Издательский дом МСП, pp. 70-122.
  9. Ярославцев, Е.И. (2003). ‘Сорта малины и ежевики [Varieties of raspberries and blackberries]’, in Малина и ежевика [Raspberries and blackberries]. Москва: Издательский дом МСП, pp. 24-62.