Grafting

1.1. Why Apple Trees Are Not Grown from Seeds

Most apple varieties we know and love are heterozygous, meaning they possess a complex set of genes (Agustí, 2010). Moreover, they are generally self‑sterile and require cross‑pollination with another variety (Krivko et al., 2014). This means that two different parent trees participate in the formation of the seed.

When we plant a seed from, say, a 'Golden Delicious' apple, we do not obtain an exact copy of that tree but a new, unique hybrid. The offspring of such an apple tree will be genetically heterogeneous: some seedlings may inherit large fruit, others disease resistance, but most will bear small, sour, or even inedible fruits (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Westwood, 1993).

The second reason is the long juvenile (youthful) period. A tree grown from seed goes through all the stages of maturation characteristic of a wild plant. It grows tall and vigorous for a long time, forms thorns, and—most importantly for the gardener—is unable to flower and bear fruit for many years, from 5 to 10 or even more (Agustí, 2010). This makes seed propagation practically unsuitable for preserving valuable varieties and obtaining a quick harvest.

1.2. Rootstock and Scion

This is precisely why fruit growing uses vegetative propagation, and the main method among them is grafting. Grafting is the artificial joining of parts of two different plants so that they fuse and form a single organism (Jackson, 2003; Westwood, 1993).

The result of grafting is a "composite" tree consisting of two main parts:

• Rootstock — the lower part of the tree, including the root system and a short section of the trunk up to the graft union. The rootstock serves as the "foundation" for the future apple tree (Kurennoi et al., 1985). It draws water and nutrients from the soil and determines many important properties of the tree: its vigour and longevity, resistance to frost, drought, and diseases.
• Scion — the upper part of the tree, which is a cutting or bud of the desired cultivated variety. The scion, when fused with the rootstock, forms the canopy and will produce the cherished fruit for which we undertake all these complex manipulations.

1.3. Why Grafting Is Done: 5 Key Objectives

Grafting is not just a propagation technique. It is a powerful and flexible tool that allows you to solve many tasks in the garden:

1. Preservation and propagation of a variety. This is the main goal. A scion taken from a fruiting tree is genetically identical to the mother plant. The resulting offspring—a clone—is guaranteed to inherit all the traits of the original variety (size, taste, colour, ripening time) (Potapov et al., 2000).

2. Controlling growth and tree vigour. By choosing a specific rootstock, you can grow a giant apple tree for a spacious orchard or a compact dwarf tree for a small plot. As I. V. Michurin said, "the rootstock is the foundation of the fruit tree" (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Vigorous rootstocks produce large, long‑lived trees that enter fruiting late. Dwarf and semi‑dwarf rootstocks, on the other hand, provide early and abundant yields and significantly simplify care and harvesting (Ferree and Webster, 2003; Phillips, 2005).

3. Adaptation to environmental conditions. The rootstock can act as a "conductor," helping the scion adapt to adverse conditions. For instance, using a frost‑hardy rootstock allows growing heat‑loving varieties in colder climates, and a drought‑tolerant one in regions with low moisture (Westwood, 1993).

4. Healing and restoring trees. Grafting is "first aid" for the garden. If a tree has been damaged by rodents or frost, the vascular system can be restored through bridge grafting, connecting the bark below and above the damaged area (Tarasov et al., 1981; Phillips, 2005). This can save the tree from dying.

5. Rapid variety change. Why uproot a mature tree and wait years for a new one to grow? You can top‑work it by inserting cuttings of a new, more interesting variety into the crown. This method, called top‑working, allows updating the varietal composition of the orchard in 2–3 years (Phillips, 2005; Tarasov et al., 1981).

Thus, grafting is not merely a horticultural technique but a whole philosophy of managing the tree’s life, enabling you to get what you want under the conditions you have. In the following chapters, we will analyse in detail how to choose the right rootstock and scion, master the basic grafting techniques, and ensure excellent results.

2.1. Vigorous (Seed) Rootstocks

These are rootstocks grown from seeds. Seedlings of cultivated apple varieties, forest apple (Malus sylvestris), or plum‑leaved apple (Chinese apple, Malus prunifolia) are most often used (Potapov et al., 2000; Westwood, 1993).

Advantages:

• Vigour and longevity: Such trees grow tall (up to 6–8 metres and more) and live 60–80 years or longer (Agustí, 2010). They create a majestic orchard and produce huge harvests.
• Deep root system: The roots go deep into the soil, providing the tree with excellent wind resistance and the ability to extract water during dry periods (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Hardiness: Seed rootstocks are generally less demanding on soil and adapt better to local conditions.

Disadvantages:

• Late entry into fruiting: You will get the first harvest from such a tree only after 5–8 years from planting (Westwood, 1993).
• Non‑uniformity: Since the trees are grown from seeds, they are not genetic clones. Even within a single batch of seedlings, there may be trees with different vigour and other characteristics, which creates difficulties in care and harvesting (Ferree and Webster, 2003).
• Difficult management: Pruning, treatment, and picking apples from tall trees require ladders and special equipment.

When to choose: Vigorous rootstocks are ideal for large homestead plots where there is room for tall trees. They are also indispensable in areas with severe winters, where the roots of dwarf rootstocks may freeze, and on poor, dry soils, where the powerful root system of a seed rootstock is the key to tree survival (Phillips, 2005). In addition, they are used for growing trees on trunk‑formers—frost‑resistant inserts onto which a valuable variety is then grafted (Trunov et al., 2012).

2.2. Semi‑dwarf and Dwarf (Clonal) Rootstocks

These rootstocks are obtained vegetatively (by layering, cuttings, micropropagation), so they are exact genetic copies of each other. This ensures uniformity and predictability in the behaviour of all trees in the orchard (Ferree and Webster, 2003; Westwood, 1993).

2.3. How the Rootstock Affects the Tree: A Brief Summary

The influence of the rootstock on the scion is enormous and multifaceted. It is important to understand that the rootstock does not just "support" the tree, but actively participates in its life activities, altering:

• Vigour and tree size: This is the most obvious effect (Agustí, 2010). By choosing a rootstock, you set the "ceiling" for the height of your orchard.
• Precocity (time of entry into fruiting): Dwarf rootstocks significantly accelerate this process. The tree transitions faster from the juvenile stage to maturity and begins to spend energy on flowering and fruiting rather than only on growth (Agustí, 2010; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Yield and efficiency: Trees on dwarfing rootstocks often give a greater yield per unit area than their tall counterparts (Westwood, 1993).
• Resistance to abiotic factors: The rootstock determines how well the roots tolerate frost, drought, or waterlogging (Agustí, 2010). For example, seedlings of Antonovka or Chinese apple are winter‑hardy, while M9 roots may freeze.
• Resistance to diseases and pests: Some rootstocks show resistance to root rots, woolly aphid, and other pathogens (Ferree and Webster, 2003).
• Nutrient uptake: Different rootstocks absorb nutrients differently, which may affect the mineral composition of leaves and even the taste and colour of fruits (Agustí, 2010).

Advice for the gardener: There is no "best" rootstock; there is a rootstock suitable for your conditions and goals.

• For harsh climates (Siberia, the Urals) — choose winter‑hardy seed rootstocks (seedlings of Siberian apple, ranetkas) or clonal rootstocks bred in your region (e.g., Budagovsky series) (Potapov et al., 2000).
• For a small plot in the middle belt — semi‑dwarf rootstocks (M26, MM106) or dwarfs (M9, 62‑396) on fertile, well‑irrigated soils are an excellent choice.
• For lovers of "monument trees" and large spaces — seed rootstocks will produce those mighty apple trees under which you can sit in the shade and from which you can harvest by the bucketful.

Remember: The "foundation" of your orchard must be laid correctly. Careful selection of the rootstock is the key to a long and happy life for your apple trees and your garden. In the next chapter, we will tell you how to properly prepare the material for grafting—the scion.

3.1. Selecting Shoots for Scion Wood

Only one‑year‑old growths—shoots of the current year—are used for scion preparation. This is the part of the tree on which buds formed during the summer and which by winter has matured (lignified) (Tarasov et al., 1981; Westwood, 1993).

How to choose a shoot correctly:

• Take shoots from healthy and productive trees. Remember: the scion is an exact copy of the mother plant. If the tree is diseased or produces small, tasteless fruit, all these flaws will be passed on to the new sapling (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• The shoots must be well‑ripened. A mature shoot has dense, hard wood. The bark is smooth and shiny. If you bend such a shoot, it springs back elastically rather than breaking (Tarasov et al., 1981). The buds on a mature shoot are large and plump. Unripened wood is loose, the bark is dull, and the shoot breaks easily.
• Use shoots of medium vigour (30–50 cm long). Over‑vigorous, "water‑sprout" shoots (suckers) have large but weak buds. Very weak, short shoots often have poorly formed buds from which no good growth will develop (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• The shoots must be clean, without signs of disease or pest damage. Do not take shoots with signs of scab, powdery mildew, cracks, or swellings on the bark.
• Take shoots from well‑lit parts of the crown. As a rule, the best shoots are found on the periphery of the crown, on the southern or south‑western side (Tarasov et al., 1981). There they receive maximum light and ripen better.
• Cut the shoot correctly. For preparation, use the middle part of a mature one‑year growth, 30–40 cm long. The upper part is usually too thin and unripened, while the lower part has weaker buds (Potapov et al., 2000; Tarasov et al., 1981).

Important! The shoots must not have flower buds. They are easily distinguished from vegetative buds: they are more rounded and noticeably thicker. Using shoots with flower buds for grafting is pointless.

3.2. Timing of Scion Collection

This is one of the most important points. The best time to collect cuttings is the very beginning of winter, after stable cold has set in but before severe frosts arrive (Tarasov et al., 1981). This may be late November–December, depending on the region.

Why exactly this timing?

• The plant is dormant. By this time, all growth processes in the plant have ceased, reserve nutrients have accumulated, and the buds have entered deep dormancy. Cuttings collected during this period keep better and tolerate the "trauma" of cutting more easily.
• Protection from freezing. Severe winter frosts (below –15...–20 °C) can damage the tender tissues of shoots. Harvesting before the onset of extremely low temperatures guarantees that you obtain healthy, non‑frozen material (Tarasov et al., 1981).

If for some reason you did not manage to collect cuttings in winter, they can be cut in early spring, before sap flow begins and buds swell (Ferree and Webster, 2003). But you must do this as soon as the snow melts and you can work in the garden. Spring cuttings should be used for grafting as soon as possible.

3.3. How to Store Scion Wood Properly

The main task of storage is to keep the cuttings dormant and prevent them from sprouting or drying out before grafting.

Storage rules:

1. Preparation. Immediately after cutting, tie the cuttings into small bundles by variety. Label each bundle with a tag bearing the variety name (Tarasov et al., 1981). It is very easy to forget which variety is which and then mix them up during grafting.

2. Optimal conditions. The best temperature for storage is 0 °C to +3 °C (or even –1 °C). At this temperature, the buds remain dormant. Humidity should be high (about 85–90%) to prevent the cuttings from drying out (Westwood, 1993; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

3. Storage methods:

• Snow pile (clamp). This is the most reliable and simple method for most gardeners. The storage location should be on the north side of buildings or in the shade so that the snow lasts as long as possible. Bundles of cuttings are laid on the ground, layer by layer, and covered with clean snow at least 30–50 cm thick. The pile can be covered with sawdust or straw on top to slow melting. It is important to protect the cuttings from mice—for this, you can surround the bundles with spruce branches or fine metal mesh (Tarasov et al., 1981; Ferree and Webster, 2003).
• In a refrigerator or cellar. If you do not have the opportunity to store cuttings outdoors, the bottom compartment of the refrigerator (for vegetables) will do. Wrap the cuttings in a damp cloth (or clean sawdust, moss) and pack them in a plastic bag with holes for air access (Tarasov et al., 1981). It is important to ensure that the cloth (or sawdust) remains constantly moist.
• In a trench (heel‑in). This method is suitable for storing a large number of cuttings. In a dry, elevated place (to avoid water accumulation), dig a trench 30–40 cm deep. Pour moist sand on the bottom. Lay the bundles of cuttings in the trench, covering them with moist sand, and fill with soil (Kurennoi et al., 1985). The place should be protected from mice.

What not to do:

• Store cuttings with fruit. Ripening apples release ethylene gas, which stimulates buds to break dormancy. If cuttings are stored near fruit, they may start growing prematurely and perish (Phillips, 2005).
• Allow drying out. If cuttings lose moisture, their tissues (especially the cambium) will die, and they will not take.
• Allow rotting. Excess moisture without air access will lead to mould and rot. Therefore, bags must have ventilation holes.
• Freeze and thaw. Sharp temperature fluctuations can damage tissues.

If you have approached the selection, collection, and storage of scion wood responsibly, consider that half the work is already done. In the next chapter, we will move on to the most interesting part—the practical aspects and timing of grafting.

4.1. Spring Grafting

This is the most common and reliable method for amateur gardeners. In spring, nature awakens, active sap flow begins—the cambium (meristematic tissue) becomes active, ensuring rapid and high‑quality union of the components (Jackson, 2003).

Spring grafting is divided into two periods:

• Early spring (before sap flow). This is when the buds on the trees are still dormant, but frosts have receded, and daytime temperatures are consistently above 0 °C. In the middle belt, this is usually late March – early April. During this period, grafting is done with scion wood (whip‑and‑tongue, improved whip‑and‑tongue, cleft grafting, bark grafting). The main condition is that the scion (cuttings) must be dormant—which is why they are kept in the cold (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• Spring during active sap flow. This is when the bark on the rootstock begins to separate easily from the wood—"the sap is rising." Determining this moment is simple: make a cut in the bark on the rootstock and try to lift it. If it separates easily, the time has come. In the middle belt, this is usually May. During this period, bark grafting with scion wood works well (Jackson, 2003). It is important that the rootstock has already "woken up" while the scion is still dormant. Therefore, the cuttings are kept in the refrigerator until the last moment.

Why is spring the best time? At this time, the "winner’s rule" applies: the rootstock actively sends sap to the grafting site, nourishing the scion, and the awakening buds of the scion give a powerful initial growth (Westwood, 1993). The success rate of spring grafting is the highest—90–95% and above.

4.2. Summer Grafting

In summer, the main method is budding, or grafting with an eye (bud). It is carried out during the second sap flow period, when the bark on the rootstock again separates easily (usually late July – August, depending on the region) (Potapov et al., 2000; Westwood, 1993).

Essence of the method: A shield with one bud of the desired variety is inserted into a T‑shaped cut in the bark of the rootstock. The scion bud does not sprout in the current year but "sleeps" until the next spring. Thus, budding is performed with a "dormant eye" (Agustí, 2010).

Advantages of summer budding:

• Economy of material. From one shoot, you can take 5–10 buds, whereas grafting with a scion requires an entire cutting.
• Less trauma to the rootstock. The bark incision is minimal, and the rootstock continues to grow.
• Opportunity for "re‑budding." If you did not manage to graft in spring, summer is your second chance.

In some southern regions with a long growing season, so‑called "growing‑eye" budding in spring is possible, when buds are prepared in advance (Westwood, 1993). For stone fruits, early summer budding (in May–June) with young, unripened shoots is sometimes used to accelerate the production of saplings (Potapov et al., 2000).

4.3. Autumn Grafting

In autumn, grafting apple trees in open ground is practically not done. Plants are preparing for winter, all processes slow down, sap flow ceases, and the bark stops separating. The take rate of autumn grafts is extremely low (Ferree and Webster, 2003).

Exception: In autumn (late September – October), grafting with root cuttings can be performed to obtain clonal rootstocks or to restore the root system. In this case, root cuttings are grafted onto each other and immediately planted in the ground (Westwood, 1993).

Winter grafting (bench grafting).

This is a special, very effective method that, nevertheless, is not accessible to every amateur gardener. It is performed indoors in the middle of winter, when trees are in deep dormancy (January–February) (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Essence of the method: In autumn, both rootstocks (seedlings or root segments) and scions (cuttings) are prepared. All are stored in the refrigerator. In mid‑winter, they are brought into a warm room and grafting is performed (usually improved whip‑and‑tongue).

Advantages of winter grafting:

• Time saving. The gardener does not have to be distracted by grafting during the peak of summer work.
• Better working conditions. Everything can be done in the warmth, without haste.
• Possibility to obtain one‑year‑old saplings in a single season. After grafting, the plants are placed in a cool place for union, and in spring they are planted in a nursery bed or directly into the orchard (Potapov et al., 2000).

Important condition: For successful winter grafting, conditions for union must be created: the optimal temperature for callus formation in apple is +12...+20 °C (Jackson, 2003; Trunov et al., 2012). After union, the grafted plants are again placed in the cold so that they do not start growing before spring.

Brief Summary of Timing:

Choosing the time for grafting is not just a calendar date. It is a subtle art of reading the "language" of plants. Once you learn to understand it, you can choose the most suitable moment and achieve maximum success. In the next chapter, we will move on to practical techniques and master the basic methods of apple grafting.

5.1. Simple Whip‑and‑Tongue Grafting (Cleft? Actually simple whip graft without tongue – but we'll call it "Simple Whip Graft" or "Simple Cleft Graft"? Actually simple whip graft is just a sloping cut without tongue. In Russian "простая копулировка" – simple whip‑and‑tongue? Actually "копулировка" is whip grafting. Simple whip grafting is just a slanting cut. We'll translate as "Simple Whip Graft".)

What it is: The simplest method of grafting with a scion, used when the rootstock and scion are of equal thickness (about 0.5–1.5 cm in diameter) (Westwood, 1993; Tarasov et al., 1981).

Technique:

1. On the rootstock and on the scion, make identical long sloping cuts. The length of the cut should be about 3–5 times the diameter of the scion (Tarasov et al., 1981). The cut must be perfectly smooth and even, made in one motion with a sharp grafting knife.

2. Join the rootstock and scion so that their cambial layers (the thin green layer between bark and wood) align. If the diameters differ slightly, align the cambium on at least one side.

3. Wrap the union tightly with grafting tape to ensure immobility and close contact.

4. Seal the top cut on the scion (above the top bud) with grafting wax to prevent drying.

Advantages: simplicity, speed.

Disadvantages: mechanical strength of the union is not high; requires perfect diameter match.

5.2. Improved Whip‑and‑Tongue Grafting (with a tongue)

What it is: A modification of simple whip grafting that provides much stronger union. This is the most popular spring grafting method for thin rootstocks (Tarasov et al., 1981; Westwood, 1993).

Technique:

1. Make the same sloping cuts on rootstock and scion as for simple whip grafting.

2. Then, on the cuts, about 1/3 from the top edge, make a longitudinal notch‑barb ("tongue") downwards.

3. Join the rootstock and scion so that the tongues interlock. This creates a mechanical "catch" that holds the components very firmly (Tarasov et al., 1981) (see Figure 4.1 in Jackson, 2003).

4. Wrap and seal the top cut with wax.

Advantages: excellent fixation, larger cambial contact area, high success rate. Improved whip‑and‑tongue is the "gold standard" for spring grafting with scions on rootstocks of suitable diameter.

5.3. Cleft Grafting

What it is: A method for grafting on a thick rootstock that is significantly thicker than the scion (2–5 times or more). This is the classic method for top‑working (re‑grafting) mature trees, when you need to completely change the variety on a sturdy trunk or thick scaffold branch (Tarasov et al., 1981; Phillips, 2005).

Technique:

1. Saw off the trunk or branch of the rootstock at the desired height, making a smooth cut. Clean it with a grafting knife.

2. Using a special small axe or chisel and mallet, make a deep longitudinal split ("cleft") in the centre of the stump (Westwood, 1993).

3. Insert a wedge (this could be a special spreader or the handle of the tool) into the cleft to open it.

4. On the scion cutting, make two long sloping cuts on opposite sides, forming a wedge. The length of the cuts should correspond to the depth of the cleft (Tarasov et al., 1981).

5. Insert the scion into the cleft so that its cambium aligns with the cambium of the rootstock on the outside. If the cleft is wide, two scions can be inserted on opposite sides.

6. Remove the spreader—the cleft closes and tightly grips the scions.

7. Carefully seal all exposed cuts with grafting wax, including the top cut of the scion and the surface of the stump.

Advantages: Allows grafting a valuable variety onto an existing powerful root‑stocked tree, giving rapid growth and early fruiting.

Disadvantages: Requires special tools and some skill; technically more complex than whip grafting.

5.4. Bark Grafting

What it is: Another method for top‑working thick rootstocks, but used in spring during active sap flow, when the bark separates easily from the wood (Jackson, 2003; Tarasov et al., 1981). Unlike cleft grafting, this method allows inserting more scions and better utilises the cambium.

Technique:

1. As in cleft grafting, saw off the rootstock and clean the cut.

2. On the bark around the stump, make vertical cuts 3–4 cm long (mark the bark). Carefully separate the bark from the wood, opening "pockets" (Westwood, 1993).

3. On the scion cutting, make one long sloping cut 3–4 cm long.

4. Insert the scion between the bark and the wood so that the sloping cut faces the wood of the rootstock. The cambium of the scion must press tightly against the cambium of the rootstock (which is on the inner side of the bark).

5. Depending on the thickness of the stump, you can insert 3–5 or more scions around its circumference.

6. Wrap all inserted scions firmly around the stump to secure them, and carefully seal all exposed cuts with grafting wax (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Advantages: very high success rate during sap flow; ability to use multiple scions to create a new crown.

5.5. Budding (Grafting with a Bud or "Eye")

What it is: Grafting with a single bud of the desired variety. This is the main method for mass propagation in nurseries and a very convenient method for amateur gardeners, especially in summer (Agustí, 2010; Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

Types of budding:

• T‑budding (the main method). Technique: make a T‑shaped cut in the bark of the rootstock (short cross‑cut and long vertical cut). Fold back the edges of the bark and insert under them a shield—a piece of bark with a bud and a thin layer of wood, cut from the scion (Ferree and Webster, 2003; Tarasov et al., 1981). After insertion, press the shield firmly and wrap with tape, leaving the bud exposed.
• Patch budding (or chip budding). A more modern method used when the bark on the rootstock does not separate well (e.g., on overgrown rootstocks or for stone fruits). On the rootstock, cut an "opening"—a strip of bark and wood of the same shape as the scion shield—and insert it into that place (Westwood, 1993; Potapov et al., 2000).

Timing: Classic summer budding is performed in July–August with a "dormant eye." The eye does not sprout until the following spring (Agustí, 2010). In spring, before sap flow begins, the rootstock is cut off just above the eye, and a shoot of the new variety grows from it.

Advantages: maximum economy of scion material (from one shoot you can get 5–10 saplings), minimal wounding of the rootstock, high work efficiency.

Brief Summary of Grafting Methods

5.6. Important Rules for All Grafting Methods

To ensure grafting success, regardless of the chosen method, follow these golden rules:

1. Sharp and clean knife. The blade must be razor‑sharp and clean. A dull knife crushes tissues, and union will be poor (Tarasov et al., 1981).

2. Speed. All cuts should be made as quickly as possible so that they do not dry out or oxidise in the air (Westwood, 1993).

3. Carefulness. Do not touch the exposed cut surfaces with your hands. Hands have oils and microorganisms that can hinder union.

4. Correct alignment. In any method, align the cambial layers of rootstock and scion. This is the primary condition for success.

5. Firm wrapping. The tape must be tight but not constricting. Use specialised polyethylene or polypropylene tape that does not rot and holds the union firmly (Westwood, 1993).

6. Protection from drying. All exposed cuts (especially the top cut of the scion) must be sealed with grafting wax or a special paste.

By mastering these five methods, you will be able to solve virtually any task in your orchard—from growing new saplings to rejuvenating and changing the variety of mature trees. In the next chapter, we will discuss how to care for grafted plants so that they successfully take and begin to bear fruit.

6.1. Checking Union Success

The first and most important step is monitoring how the union progresses. You need to regularly inspect the graft site to spot problems in time.

Timing and signs:

• 2–3 weeks after spring grafting with a scion, you can already assess whether the process is proceeding. If the buds on the scion have swelled and begun to open, and the scion looks fresh and turgid—the process is going well (Tarasov et al., 1981; Jackson, 2003). If the scion has dried up, shrivelled, and the buds show no signs of life—the graft failed.
• 2–3 weeks after summer budding, check the condition of the shield. If the left‑over leaf petiole on the shield falls off easily with a light touch—budding succeeded (Potapov et al., 2000). If the petiole has dried and does not fall off, and the bud itself has darkened or shrivelled—the graft did not take. In that case, if time permits, you can perform re‑budding—repeat budding on the same rootstock slightly lower or higher (Westwood, 1993; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Important! In spring grafting with a scion, bud swelling and opening may occur using the nutrients stored in the scion itself. Therefore, the final conclusion about success can only be made when young shoots begin to grow actively from the buds.

6.2. Removing the Tying

The tying serves its main role—ensuring tight contact of the components in the first weeks after grafting. But as tissues grow, it may start to constrict them, leading to disruption of sap flow and death of the scion (Agustí, 2010; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Timing for removing the tie:

• For summer budding: the tie is removed 1–1.5 months after budding, usually in autumn (September–October) or early spring of the following year, when it becomes clear that the shield has taken (Westwood, 1993; Potapov et al., 2000). If a special self‑destructing film is used, it can be left on—it will break down under UV light (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• For spring grafting with a scion: the tie is removed when the graft union thickens significantly and there is a risk of constriction. This usually happens 2–3 months after grafting, when young shoots have reached 10–15 cm in length. If you see that the film is beginning to cut into the bark, loosen or remove it immediately (Ferree and Webster, 2003).

The rule is simple: it is better to remove the tie a little early than to allow constriction. If you fear that the still‑weak union might fall apart, you can remove the tie and re‑apply a new one, a little looser.

6.3. Removing Suckers

One of the most important and most frequent tasks in caring for a grafted tree is removing wild suckers that appear on the rootstock below the graft union.

Why do it:

• The rootstock is a strong and viable plant. It will constantly try to restore its own crown by sending shoots from dormant buds on the roots and trunk. These shoots are "competitors" to the scion: they take nutrients, moisture, and energy that should go to the new variety. If not removed, they can overwhelm the weak scion (Agustí, 2010; Tarasov et al., 1981).

How and when:

• Frequency: Remove suckers several times a season, especially in the early period. As soon as you notice a shoot growing from below the graft union, remove it.
• Technique: The best way is to snap off suckers when they are young and herbaceous, just starting to grow. In this state, the wound on the rootstock heals quickly. If the shoot has become woody, cut it with secateurs "on the ring," trying not to leave a stump (Potapov et al., 2000).
• For budding: Particularly careful removal of suckers that appear in spring before the bud begins to grow is needed. This gives it the maximum start (Ferree and Webster, 2003).

6.4. Shaping the New Shoot

When the bud on the scion starts to grow (for budding) or from the top bud of the scion a strong shoot emerges (for spring grafting), our task is to help it form a proper crown.

Basic shaping techniques:

• Selecting a leader. Several shoots often start growing from the awakened buds on the scion. Our task is to leave the strongest and most vertical one, which will become the central leader (trunk). All other shoots, especially those growing below the graft union, are removed (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• Pinching (tip pruning). When the central leader reaches 40–60 cm in length, you can pinch its tip (remove 5–10 cm) to stimulate growth of lateral shoots—future scaffold branches (Tarasov et al., 1981; Potapov et al., 2000). This allows the formation of a compact and branched crown already in the first year.
• Forming scaffold branches. In the first year, on strong grafts, you can establish the first tier of 3–4 well‑developed lateral shoots. It is important that they diverge from the trunk at an angle of at least 45–60°. Narrow angles (less than 30°) increase the risk of splitting under the weight of future crops (Agustí, 2010). In the early years, you can use spreaders or tying to adjust angles.

Important nuance: Many gardeners are afraid to prune and shape a young grafted tree for fear of harming it. But it is precisely proper and timely formative pruning that lays the foundation for a healthy and productive tree for decades. It is better to slightly delay its growth in the first year than to fight an incorrect crown for the rest of its life.

6.5. Protection and Fertilisation

Do not forget general care for the young plant:

• Watering. Young grafted plants need regular and abundant watering, especially during dry periods (Westwood, 1993). They lack their own root system to draw water.
• Fertilisation. 1–2 months after successful take, when active shoot growth begins, you can apply a complex mineral fertiliser (mainly phosphorus and potassium to strengthen tissues and roots) (Potapov et al., 2000).
• Pest and disease control. Young, actively growing shoots are a delicacy for aphids, caterpillars, and pathogens. Carry out preventive treatments according to the recommendations for your region.
• Staking. If you have a dwarf rootstock or a weak graft union, immediately install a supporting stake and tie the growing shoot to it. This will protect it from wind breakage (Phillips, 2005).

Conclusion

Grafting is not just a horticultural technique. It is a true art that allows you to be not merely a consumer but a real creator of your orchard. By mastering it, you can preserve your favourite varieties, obtain harvests earlier and more abundantly, adapt trees to your conditions, and heal and renew old orchards. Yes, this path requires patience, attention to detail, and practice. But the very first successful graft, from which a healthy and fruiting tree will grow, will become a real reward and open new horizons in gardening. Good luck, and may your garden delight you with its fruits!