Grafting

Why Graft a Pear?

Most pear varieties do not retain their valuable qualities when propagated by seed. If you sow seeds from, for example, a tasty 'Bartlett' pear, the resulting trees will be completely different—with small, often unpalatable fruit, varying winter hardiness, and different ripening times (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Why does this happen?

The pear is a cross-pollinated plant. The flowers of one variety are pollinated by the pollen of another, and the seeds combine the traits of both "parents." The offspring are heterozygous (genetically diverse) and do not replicate the mother plant (Krivko, 2014). Moreover, pear seedlings come into bearing very late—at 7–10 years or even later—and grow too large, which is inconvenient for orchard management.

Grafting solves all these problems:

What Are Rootstock and Scion?

Scion — is a cutting or bud (eye) taken from a cultivar tree that you wish to propagate. The scion produces the branches, flowers, and fruit of the desired variety.

Rootstock — is the plant onto which the graft is made. Its job is to provide the root system and supply the tree with water and nutrients. The rootstock determines growth vigor, longevity, drought tolerance, frost resistance, and resistance to soil-borne diseases (Rieger, 2010). Rootstocks can be grown from seeds (the most common option) or propagated vegetatively (by cuttings, layers).

For pears, rootstocks can vary. The main options are discussed in the next chapter.

Diagram of a Grafted Tree

• Scion (variety) ← cultivar branches, flowers, fruit
• Graft union ← fusion zone
• Rootstock (roots) ← root system, trunk (stem)

It is important to understand: the scion and rootstock must be compatible with each other—that is, they should belong to closely related botanical groups. Pears can be grafted onto other pear species or onto quince, but not onto apple (such grafts are unreliable). More details on this in the next chapter.

Brief summary: grafting is the only reliable way to preserve a favorite pear variety, obtain tasty fruit as early as possible, and adapt the tree to your growing conditions. It is the foundation of modern horticulture, allowing even in a small garden to grow several excellent varieties on a single tree.

2.1. Seedling Rootstocks (Pear Seedlings)

This is the most common and reliable option. The rootstock is grown from seeds of various pear species. A sapling grafted onto a seedling rootstock produces a large, long-lived, vigorous tree with a deep taproot system that tolerates drought well and does not require staking (Rieger, 2010).

Which species are used as seedling rootstocks?

• Common (wild) pear — Pyrus communis – the most popular rootstock worldwide, including in Russia, Europe, and North America. Compatible with most varieties, producing strong, long-lived trees. Roots tolerate excess moisture but are sensitive to salinity (Mandal et al., 2021).
• Callery pear — Pyrus calleryana – often used in southern regions (USA, China) due to its resistance to fire blight and nematodes. However, it may have compatibility issues with some varieties and is less winter-hardy (Rieger, 2010).
• Betulifolia pear — Pyrus betulifolia – produces very vigorous trees (30% larger than usual) and is drought-tolerant, but susceptible to some diseases.
• Ussurian pear — Pyrus ussuriensis – the most winter-hardy rootstock, tolerating temperatures down to –50 °C. Used in Siberia and the Far East. However, many European pear varieties are incompatible with it or produce small fruit (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Asian pear — Pyrus pyrifolia – the standard rootstock for Asian pears, but not recommended for European varieties: they suffer severely from "dieback" (wilting) and produce fruit with hard "gritty" flesh (Hartmann et al., 2011).

What should a gardener choose?

If you live in a region with cold winters—look for seedlings of Ussurian pear or local winter-hardy varieties. In milder climates, seedlings of common pear (e.g., from 'Winter Nelis' or 'Bartlett') work perfectly. A seedling rootstock is a choice for decades: the tree will be large (up to 6–8 m or more) and live 50–80 years. But such a tree requires plenty of space, and you'll wait 5–7 years for the first harvest.

2.2. Quince as a Rootstock

Common quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a unique rootstock for pear. When grafted onto quince, the pear becomes dwarf (the tree grows to only 2.5–4 m) and begins bearing fruit as early as 2–3 years after planting (Rieger, 2010). Additionally, on quince, the fruit grow larger and sweeter, and the tree enters full production sooner (Mitcham and Mitchell, 2007).

Popular quince clones:

• Quince A (Angers) – the most widespread, producing trees 50–60% of seedling size. Propagates well from cuttings.
• Quince C – the most dwarfing option (30–40% of seedling size), but requires the most fertile and well-drained soils.
• Quince B – an intermediate option, somewhat more vigorous than Quince A.
• Provence quince (BA-29) – more winter-hardy and vigorous than Quince A, producing trees 60–70% of seedling size (Hartmann et al., 2011).

Important limitation: not all pear varieties are compatible with quince. Varieties such as 'Bartlett' (Williams), 'Bosc', 'Packham's Triumph', 'Abbé Fétel', and 'Conference' graft directly onto quince poorly or fail to take (Mandal et al., 2021). For such varieties, an interstock (intermediate piece) is required—a 10–20 cm piece of a compatible intermediate variety grafted between the quince and the main scion. 'Old Home' or 'Hardy' are often used as interstocks. This interstock "softens" incompatibility and allows the production of a dwarf pear of any variety.

Quince is the choice for an intensive orchard: compact trees, early harvests, convenient management. However, quince is demanding of soil (prefers fertile, moist but not waterlogged soils), poorly tolerates drought and severe frosts (below –25 °C is critical). In regions with harsh winters, quince is best avoided—roots may freeze (Krivko, 2014).

2.3. Clonal Rootstocks

These are rootstocks propagated vegetatively (by cuttings, layers, micropropagation) rather than from seed. The most well-known clonal rootstocks for pear are the OH × F (Old Home × Farmingdale) series, developed in the USA. They are compatible with most varieties, resistant to fire blight, and produce trees of varying vigor:

These rootstocks produce trees with excellent fruit quality, are resistant to root rot and pear decline, but are susceptible to nematodes (Rieger, 2010). In Europe, the clones 'EMH' (semi-dwarf) and 'Sydo' (semi-vigorous) are also used. Clonal rootstocks are convenient because they ensure uniformity in the orchard, but they are more difficult to propagate on your own—it is easier to buy ready-made nursery trees.

2.4. Scion–Rootstock Compatibility

Even if the rootstock seems suitable externally, the scion may "not get along" with it. Incompatibility is when the union is poor or short-lived. Signs of incompatibility include:

• poor union at the graft site, presence of swellings or cracks;
• weak scion growth, yellowing leaves, premature leaf drop;
• tree breakage at the graft union after several years (clean, smooth fracture);
• severe thickening of the rootstock with a thin scion, or vice versa.

How can a gardener avoid problems?

1. Use only proven combinations. For example, European varieties grow well on common pear seedlings or on OH × F.

2. If you want a dwarf pear on quince but the variety is incompatible—use an interstock (as mentioned above).

3. Do not experiment with grafting onto apple, mountain ash, or other genera—these are almost always incompatible (Krivko, 2014).

Brief Rootstock Selection Recommendations

Next chapter: how to properly prepare and store scion cuttings so they remain viable and ready for grafting.

3.1. Selecting Shoots for Cuttings

For scion wood, use one-year-old, mature shoots (last year's growth) from cultivar trees you wish to propagate. It is important to select and cut these shoots correctly:

• Cut shoots only from healthy, productive, and verified cultivar trees. If the tree is infected with viruses or fungal diseases, the scion will transmit them to the new plant—this is how many dangerous infections spread (Potapov et al., 2000). It is best to take cuttings from mother plants that have been tested and are virus-free.
• Choose shoots from the peripheral, well-lit parts of the crown. There, the wood matures better, and buds develop more fully and strongly (Tarasov et al., 1981). Avoid shoots grown in the shade—they are often thin, with underdeveloped buds.
• Optimal shoot length – 30–50 cm, thickness – 6–10 mm (about pencil diameter) (Tarasov et al., 1981). Shoots that are too thick (over 12 mm) often have a large pith and fuse less well; those too thin (under 5 mm) contain few nutrients and dry out faster.
• The shoot must be fully mature: bark – dense, glossy, without wrinkles; buds – large, well-formed; wood – when bent, does not break but springs back elastically. A sign of an immature shoot – green, wrinkled bark and small buds. Such cuttings are unsuitable for grafting.
• Remove the upper, thinnest part of the shoot (about 1/5 of the length)—it matures least well and contains fewer reserves. For cutting, use the middle part of the shoot, where buds are most developed (Tarasov et al., 1981).

3.2. Timing of Collection

The optimal time for collecting cuttings depends on when you plan to graft.

For spring grafting (whip-and-tongue, cleft grafting, bark grafting):

• It is best to collect cuttings in early winter, before severe persistent frosts (usually in December), when the wood has fully matured and buds are still in deep dormancy (Krivko, 2014). At this time, shoots have accumulated maximum reserves and are best preserved.
• Collection in early spring, before bud swelling begins (February–March, as soon as weather permits) is also acceptable. However, in regions with mild winters where there is no risk of shoot freezing, this is quite feasible. The main thing is to do it before buds start growing.
• It is not recommended to collect cuttings during winter thaws or during severe frosts below –20 °C – in such periods, wood becomes brittle, and buds may be damaged even without external signs (Tarasov et al., 1981).

For summer grafting (budding with an "eye"):

• Cuttings are collected immediately before budding (in July–August). Use current season's shoots that have sufficiently matured but are not yet fully lignified. They are cut in the morning, leaves are immediately removed (leaving a small petiole), and used within a few hours, avoiding wilting (Tarasov et al., 1981).

For winter grafting (indoors):

• Rootstocks and cuttings are collected in autumn, after leaf fall, and stored until mid-winter, when grafting is performed in a grafting workshop (Tarasov et al., 1981). This method is mainly used in large nurseries, but amateur gardeners can use it if they have a cool room.

3.3. Storage Conditions

To keep cuttings viable until spring, three conditions must be ensured: low positive temperature (0…+3 °C), high humidity (to prevent drying), and good aeration (to prevent rotting).

Methods for storing cuttings:

1. In a cellar (basement) in moist sand or sawdust. The most common method. A layer of moist (but not wet!) sand or softwood sawdust (which is less prone to rotting) is placed at the bottom of a box. Cuttings are tied in bundles of 20–30, placed vertically (cut ends down) or laid horizontally, covered with sand. The top is covered with plastic film to prevent the sand from drying out. Temperature should be 0…+3 °C, sand moisture about 60–70% (a lump holds together but water doesn't drip). Check condition once a month: if mold appears—treat with a weak potassium permanganate solution; if drying—spray with water (Tarasov et al., 1981).

2. In snow piles (snow storage). Where there is heavy snowfall, cuttings can be stored outdoors. For this, a trench 30–40 cm deep is dug in a dry place; a layer of spruce branches or straw is placed on the bottom, then bundles of cuttings are placed, layered with dry sawdust or peat. Cover with a layer of sawdust 10–15 cm, then straw, and cover with snow 50–80 cm thick. This "layer cake" protects cuttings from temperature fluctuations and drying. Importantly: under the snow, the temperature remains around 0 °C even in severe frosts, and cuttings are perfectly preserved until spring. Just protect the pile from mice—for example, surround it with spruce branches or metal mesh (Tarasov et al., 1981).

3. In a refrigerator. If there are few cuttings, they can be stored in a household refrigerator at +1…+2 °C. Bundles are first wrapped in moist (but not wet!) cloth or moss, then placed in a plastic bag with ventilation holes. Check for condensation once a week—if water appears, open the bag for ventilation and slightly wring out the cloth. In this state, cuttings can be stored for up to 3–4 months without losing viability.

4. In a trench on the site. If winters are mild, you can simply bury the cuttings in a shady spot at a depth of 30–40 cm, laying them horizontally and covering with moist sand. Cover with agro-fabric or polyethylene to prevent waterlogging, and top with soil. This method is suitable for southern regions where the ground does not freeze deeply.

What NOT to do:

• Store cuttings in a dry, warm place (in a room, on a radiator)—they will quickly dry out and lose their ability to fuse.
• Keep cuttings in water—they may rot or start growing prematurely.
• Store them with fruits or vegetables that emit ethylene (apples, potatoes)—ethylene accelerates bud germination, which is harmful for winter cuttings.
• Repeatedly freeze and thaw cuttings—sharp temperature changes damage tissues.

Before grafting (1–2 days prior), bring cuttings into a warm room (+18…+20 °C) to "wake them up"—activate the cambium. Place their lower ends (2–3 cm) in water at room temperature. Within a day, the cuttings will absorb moisture, and the cambium will become more active—improving take rate (Krivko, 2014).

Quick Scion Preparation Checklist

Next chapter: when is the best time to graft pears—spring, summer, autumn, or even winter—and how to choose the timing for your climate.

4.1. Spring Grafting (Main Period)

Spring is the most reliable and popular time for grafting pears. The rootstock cambium is actively dividing, ensuring rapid and strong fusion with the scion.

When exactly in spring?

Timing depends on the region and current weather, but the guideline is: 1–2 weeks before active sap flow begins in the rootstock and about 2–3 weeks before bud break. In central Russia, this is usually late March – early April; in the south—late February – March; in northern areas—mid-April (Krivko, 2014).

How to determine the right moment?

• Rootstock buds are swelling but not yet open.
• Bark begins to separate easily from the wood (this is the main sign of the start of active sap flow).
• When cutting bark, moist, shiny cambium is visible.

Important: if you are late with spring grafting and perform it during leaf emergence, cuttings take less well because a significant portion of reserves has already been used for leaf growth (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Which methods are used in spring?

• Whip-and-tongue grafting – when rootstock and scion are approximately the same thickness.
• Cleft grafting – for thick rootstocks (re-grafting old trees or thick branches).
• Bark grafting – when the rootstock is significantly thicker than the scion and the bark separates easily.
• Side-insertion grafting – for medium-diameter rootstocks (Tarasov et al., 1981; Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Spring grafts, especially those done before bud break, have the highest take rate—90–100%. Therefore, for beginning gardeners, this is the best choice.

4.2. Summer Grafting (Budding)

In summer, pears are grafted mainly by bud (eye) —this method is called budding. It is done during the second wave of sap flow, when the bark on the rootstock separates easily from the wood.

Optimal time – second half of July – August. In the Non-Black Earth region, budding is carried out from July 20–25; in the Black Earth region—early August; in the south—second half of August (Tarasov et al., 1981). The main guideline: 2 months before steady cold weather sets in, so that the grafted bud has time to fuse with the rootstock but does not start growing before spring. Therefore, budding with a dormant eye is completed no later than mid-August (in the central zone) or early September (in the south).

What does summer grafting provide?

• Saves scion material—one bud per rootstock is sufficient.
• High productivity—an experienced gardener can perform up to 800–1000 buddings per day (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• By autumn, the shield with the bud fuses with the rootstock, and in the following spring produces a strong shoot.
• Allows "saving" rootstocks that were not grafted in spring.

Limitation: summer budding requires good skill and precise execution. It is also only possible if the rootstock bark separates easily—in dry hot weather this can be difficult (Tarasov et al., 1981). Therefore, in extreme heat, budding is done in the morning or evening, and work is stopped in the rain.

4.3. Autumn Grafting

In garden practice, pears are rarely grafted in autumn. Cambium slows division, bark begins to separate less well, and there is little time left before steady frosts. The scion does not have time to fuse, and the graft site often freezes or suffocates over winter.

When is autumn grafting justified?

• In southern regions with a warm and long autumn, where at least 1.5–2 months remain before the first frosts (in Krasnodar Krai, Crimea, Transcaucasia), early autumn budding with a "dormant eye" can be done in September.
• When re-grafting mature trees using the bark grafting method in late August – early September, if necessary for production reasons (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Risks: In most regions of Russia and Europe, autumn grafting of pears is not recommended for amateur gardening—take rates are unstable, and overwintering is often unsuccessful. Better to wait until spring.

4.4. Winter Grafting (Indoors)

Winter grafting is a technology of large nurseries, but it can also be mastered by gardeners who have a heated room (or at least a warm veranda) and a cold cellar for stratification.

How is it done?

1. Rootstocks and scions are collected in autumn. Rootstocks are dug up, the above-ground part is cut to 10–12 cm above the root collar, and roots are shortened to 12–15 cm.

2. Cuttings and rootstocks are stored until mid-December–January at 0…+3 °C in moist sand or sawdust.

3. 5–8 days before grafting, rootstocks, and 1–2 days before, scions are brought into a warm room (+18…+22 °C) to activate the cambium.

4. Grafting is done in January–February indoors, using whip-and-tongue or side-veneer grafting (if diameters don't match).

5. After grafting, the union sites are tightly wrapped, sometimes dipped in molten paraffin (to protect from drying).

6. Grafted plants are placed in boxes with moist sawdust and kept at +16…+24 °C for 2–3 weeks for stratification (fusion). Then they are moved back to a cold place (+1…+3 °C) and stored until spring planting in the ground (Tarasov et al., 1981; Krivko, 2014).

Advantages of winter grafting:

• Can be done during the winter downtime.
• Rootstocks and scions are in the same dormant phase, making control easier.
• After warm stratification, fusion occurs quickly, and plants are ready for planting by spring.
• Makes it possible to obtain a ready sapling by the end of the current season (speeds up the process by 1–2 years compared to traditional summer budding).

For amateurs, this method requires equipment (grafting table, stratification containers, temperature-controlled cellar), so it is mainly used in northern regions with short summers where sapling production needs to be accelerated.

Summary Table of Timings and Methods

What the Gardener Should Know About Choosing the Timing

1. If you are a beginner—choose spring. It forgives minor mistakes and gives the highest chance of success.

2. If you are in a warm region (southern Russia, Mediterranean, subtropics)—you can use both spring and summer, and in some cases even early autumn.

3. If you want to quickly propagate a valuable variety and have a cellar—try winter grafting, but first master the technique on inexpensive rootstocks.

4. In regions with short and cool summers (North-West, Siberia), budding is done earlier—in late June – early July, so that the bud has enough time to prepare for winter.

5. The main rule—do not graft in heat (+30 °C and above) or in rain, especially in summer. In such conditions, tissues dry out or rot faster, and bark separates poorly.

Next chapter: main grafting methods—how to correctly join the rootstock and scion for a reliable and fast union.

5.1. General Principles of Any Graft

Before moving on to specific methods, remember four universal rules that determine success:

• Aligning the cambium. Cambium is the thin layer of actively dividing cells between the bark and the wood. Its cells form callus—a swelling that fuses rootstock and scion. Therefore, in any graft, aim for maximum alignment of the cambial layers of both components (at least on one side) (Krivko, 2014).
• Cleanliness and sharpness of the tool. Cuts must be smooth, without tears or burrs. A dull knife crushes tissues, reducing contact and increasing the risk of infection. The grafting knife must be razor-sharp (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• Tight wrapping. It presses rootstock and scion together, eliminates air gaps, and prevents the cuts from drying out. For wrapping, use polyethylene or PVC tape (width 8–10 mm) that stretches and does not hinder thickening (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• Protection from drying. All open cuts (especially the top cut of the scion and the rootstock end) must be coated with grafting wax or another protective compound to prevent moisture loss and infection (Krivko, 2014).

Now let's examine each method in order.

5.2. Whip Grafting (Simple)

When applied: when rootstock and scion are of equal or similar thickness (difference not more than 25%) (Tarasov et al., 1981). Most often used in nurseries, and also for winter grafting. In the amateur garden—for grafting young rootstocks the thickness of a pencil (6–10 mm).

Technique:

1. Make identical slanting cuts 2.5–5 cm long (3–5 times the diameter) on both rootstock and scion. The cut should be even, made in one knife stroke.

2. Align the cuts so that the cambial layers match as closely as possible. If thickness differs slightly, align on one side.

3. Tightly wrap the union with polyethylene tape "solidly"—from the bottom to the top of the cut, leaving no gaps.

4. Cover the top cut of the scion with wax.

Advantages: simplicity, speed, minimal material use.

Disadvantages: during wrapping, cuts may shift; union strength is lower than with whip-and-tongue grafting (Tarasov et al., 1981).

5.3. Whip-and-Tongue Grafting (with a "tongue")

When applied: same conditions—equal thickness of rootstock and scion. This is an improved version of simple whip grafting that provides a stronger and faster union.

Technique:

1. Make slanting cuts on both rootstock and scion (as for simple whip grafting).

2. Then, on each cut (about 1/3 from the pointed end), make a longitudinal slit ("tongue")—first on the rootstock, slightly above the middle of the cut, then on the scion, slightly below the middle (Tarasov et al., 1981).

3. Bring the components together so that the "tongues" interlock. This creates mechanical interlocking that holds the scion even without wrapping.

4. Wrap tightly with tape, coat the top cut of the scion with wax.

Why it works: the "tongues" increase the contact area of the cambium and create an additional fusion zone. They also prevent shifting during wrapping and growth (Tarasov et al., 1981). Take rates with whip-and-tongue grafting reach 95–100%.

Advice: this method is the gold standard for grafting with a cutting when rootstock and scion are the same diameter. Master it first.

5.4. Cleft Grafting

When applied: when the rootstock is significantly thicker than the scion (2–5 times or more). Used for re-grafting mature trees, changing varieties on thick branches, or when growing saplings on vigorous seedlings (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Technique:

1. Clean the cut end of the rootstock (branch or trunk) with a knife to a smooth surface.

2. In the center of the end, make a cleft (split) 4–6 cm deep using a special hatchet or wide knife. Insert a wedge-spacer into the cleft to keep it from closing (Tarasov et al., 1981).

3. On the scion cutting, make a double wedge—two slanting cuts on opposite sides, 3–5 cm long. The upper cut should be slightly longer than the lower one, making the wedge asymmetrical—this facilitates insertion.

4. Insert the scion into the cleft so that the cambium on one side aligns with the cambium of the rootstock (if the rootstock is thick, you can insert 2–4 scions around the circumference).

5. Remove the wedge-spacer—the cleft closes and grips the scion.

6. Wrap the graft site tightly (if diameter permits) and thoroughly coat all open surfaces with wax, including the rootstock end and the top cuts of the scions.

Special note: if the rootstock is very thick (diameter over 10 cm), instead of a single cleft, you can make wedge-shaped cuts around the circumference and insert scions into them—this is a variant of "wedge grafting." It is less traumatic to the rootstock (Krivko, 2014).

Advantages: allows grafting cultivar scions onto already mature trees, quickly changing the variety.

Disadvantages: traumatic for the rootstock, healing takes a long time, requires careful aftercare.

5.5. Bark Grafting

When applied: the rootstock (or branch) is significantly thicker than the scion, and the bark separates easily from the wood—i.e., during the period of active sap flow (spring, after cambial activity begins) (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Technique:

1. Clean the cut end of the rootstock.

2. Make longitudinal cuts 3–5 cm long in the bark around the circumference (usually 2–4 cuts, depending on thickness).

3. Gently separate the bark from the wood with a knife, slightly widening the cut.

4. On the scion cutting, make a single slanting cut 3–5 cm long. You can make a "shoulder" (horizontal cut) at the top of the cut so the scion rests on the rootstock end—this improves contact (Tarasov et al., 1981).

5. Insert the scion, cut side inward, between the bark and wood of the rootstock, all the way.

6. Wrap the graft site tightly with twine or tape, coat all open surfaces with wax.

Important nuance: for better cambium contact, sometimes a narrow strip of bark is removed from the side of the scion that contacts the rootstock wood—this increases the area of cambial contact (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Advantages: very simple and fast method, gives high take rates during sap flow.

Disadvantages: only applicable in spring (or early summer), when bark separates easily; does not work at other times of year.

5.6. Budding (Bud Grafting)

When applied: in summer (July–August), less often in spring or winter. This is grafting not with a cutting, but with a single bud (eye) with a piece of bark and a thin layer of wood (shield). Budding is the main method for mass propagation in nurseries, but it can also be mastered by amateurs (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Two main budding methods are distinguished:

Which Method to Choose – Brief Recommendations

Important Practical Tips

• Keep your knife sharp. Hone the blade every 20–30 cuts on a fine-grained stone or whetstone (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• Do not touch fresh cuts with your fingers—this contaminates the wound surface and reduces take rate.
• Wrap firmly, but not too tight—so as not to constrict tissues, but without gaps. Polyethylene tape stretches, which is ideal.
• Coat with wax not only the top cut of the scion, but also the rootstock ends and all open wounds—this reduces evaporation and protects against infection.
• For summer budding, try to work in cloudy weather or in the morning/evening—in heat, bark separates less well and shields dry out faster (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• Do not rush. A carefully made cut and proper cambium alignment are more important than speed. Master the technique on unwanted branches (e.g., willow or poplar) before grafting valuable varieties.

Next chapter: how to care for grafted plants after grafting—checking take rate, removing wrapping, removing rootstock suckers, and shaping the new shoot.

6.1. Checking Take Rate

The first important step is checking whether the graft has taken. The timing and indicators depend on the grafting method.

For budding (summer, by bud):

• After 2–3 weeks following grafting, perform a check. Sign of successful union: the leaf petiole on the shield falls off with a light touch, and the bud itself looks fresh, green, and swollen (Tarasov et al., 1981). If the petiole has dried but does not fall off, and the bud has blackened or shriveled—budding has failed.
• In case of failure, you can perform a re-budding—a repeated bud graft on the same rootstock, slightly below or above the first site, if time allows (before the end of the growing season) (Tarasov et al., 1981). This is usually done in the same week while the bark still separates.

For spring grafting with a cutting:

• Sign of success—within 2–4 weeks, buds on the grafted cutting begin to swell and open. If buds have not started growing and the cutting has dried—the graft did not take.
• Unlike budding, repeated cutting grafting in the same season is not done—you will have to wait for next spring.

Important: do not rush to conclusions. Sometimes buds open a little later (especially in a cool spring). Give the cutting 3–4 weeks before concluding failure.

6.2. Removing the Wrapping

The wrapping material serves two purposes: pressing the components together and protecting the graft site from drying. But after fusion, the wrapping becomes an obstacle—it can constrict tissues, disrupt nutrient flow, and even cause the scion to die.

When to remove the wrapping?

• For budding (summer): remove the wrapping after 6–8 weeks after grafting—usually in September–October, before cold weather sets in. If left over winter, it may cut into the bark, especially on fast-growing rootstocks (Tarasov et al., 1981). If using self-destructing (photodegradable) film, it can be left—it breaks down in sunlight.
• For spring grafting with a cutting: remove the wrapping when active thickening of the shoots begins—after 1.5–2 months after grafting (approximately in June–July) (Krivko, 2014). By this time, the cambium has formed callus and the union is strong. If removed earlier—the union may be weak; if later—a constriction may form.

How to remove:

• Carefully cut the tape lengthwise on the side opposite the graft union to avoid damaging the bark. It is better to use a sharp knife rather than scissors to avoid crushing tissues.
• If the tape has grown into the bark, do not forcibly tear it off—leave it; it will eventually fall off on its own.

6.3. Removing Rootstock Suckers

After grafting, the rootstock often tries to "regain initiative"—producing its own shoots from dormant buds below the graft union (from roots, stem, or stump). These shoots are called suckers or wild shoots. They grow quickly and divert water and nutrients from the scion, choking the cultivar shoot.

What to do:

• Remove suckers regularly, systematically, not allowing them to grow. It is best to break or cut them off at the base as soon as they appear (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• This is especially important in the first year after grafting, when the cultivar shoot is still weak. If neglected, suckers can completely overwhelm the scion.
• For bud grafts: in spring, before bud break, cut off the upper part of the rootstock (everything above the grafted bud)—this is called "lopping" (in English-speaking practice) or "cutting back to a stub." In Russian nurseries, it is customary to leave a stub (stake) 5–10 cm above the graft union, to which the young shoot is later tied to prevent wind breakage (Tarasov et al., 1981). Once the shoot is strong, the stub is removed.
• For spring grafting with a cutting: if the graft was done by cleft or bark grafting on a thick branch, suckers also appear from dormant buds on the rootstock. Cut them out before they become woody.

6.4. Shaping the New Shoot

From the grafted bud or cutting, one or several shoots usually grow. The gardener's task is to obtain one strong, straight shoot that will become the basis of the future tree.

Step-by-step actions:

1. For budding (spring after wintering): when a shoot emerges from the bud and reaches 10–15 cm, select one strongest, vertically growing shoot. Remove the others (if more than one). If a stub was left, tie the young shoot to the stub so it grows straight and does not break (Tarasov et al., 1981).

2. For spring grafting with a cutting: usually 2–3 buds are left on the cutting. If all start growing, leave one strongest shoot (usually the top one), pinch out the others while they are still small (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

3. Pinching (tipping): to induce branching, when the shoot reaches 60–80 cm in height (on dwarf rootstocks—40–50 cm), pinch off its tip (remove 5–10 cm). This stimulates the growth of lateral shoots, which will later form the crown. However, if you want a high trunk (stem without branches)—do not pinch in the first year (Krivko, 2014).

4. Removing all shoots on the trunk: all lateral shoots that appear below the intended crown level (on the trunk) should be regularly removed so they do not drain energy from the central leader.

6.5. Protection from Breakage

Young scion shoots in the first year are very fragile. They are easily broken by wind, rain, birds, or accidental touch.

How to protect:

• If the graft was made on a tall rootstock (or on a branch of a mature tree), immediately install a support—a wooden stake or wire arch. Tie the young shoot with soft twine (in a "figure-eight" pattern to avoid constriction) (Tarasov et al., 1981).
• For budding, as mentioned, the rootstock stub serves as a natural support.
• In windy locations, you can set up temporary protection from a plastic bag or paper cap (after the shoot has started growing), but this is rarely needed.

6.6. Special Case: Care for Re-grafted Trees

If you are re-grafting a mature tree (thick branches), aftercare has its specifics:

• Leave temporary "nurse" branches. When re-grafting large branches, some thin branches on the tree are deliberately left untouched. Their leaves produce nutrients for the roots while the grafted scions are still weak (Tarasov et al., 1981). These temporary branches are removed in the 2nd–3rd year, when the scion is sufficiently developed.
• Remove "water sprouts" —vigorous vertical shoots that appear at the base of re-grafted branches and on the trunk. They drain energy and should be broken out systematically.
• Tie each grafted cutting to a support or to the left stub.

Post-Grafting Care Calendar

Final Advice

The most important thing in post-grafting care is regularity. Check your grafted plants at least once a week in the first month, then every 2–3 weeks until autumn. Pay attention not only to the scion but also to the condition of the rootstock. Timely removal of suckers and removal of wrapping are simple actions that often determine whether your graft becomes a successful tree or fails.

Remember: even if a graft fails the first time, do not despair. This is a skill that comes with practice. Use failure as experience and try again in the next season.

This concludes the article. We have covered all the key stages: what grafting is, how to choose a rootstock, prepare and store scion wood, select timing and method, and care for the grafted plant after the operation. By following these recommendations, you can successfully propagate any pear variety, create compact or vigorous trees, and adapt them to your conditions. Good luck in your garden!