Growing Eggplant in Open Ground

When to plant eggplants in open ground?

The main rule that every gardener should remember: do not rush! Unlike cabbage or carrots, eggplant is a strictly heat-loving crop. You should focus not on the calendar date, but on the actual weather and soil condition.

The universal principle for determining the planting time is as follows:

1. The soil should warm up at planting depth (10–15 cm) to a temperature of +15…+18 °C. At lower temperatures, the eggplant's root system develops poorly, the plant experiences stress, growth slows down, and it becomes more susceptible to diseases (Autko et al., 2012; Swiader, 1992). In cold, wet soil, the roots may simply rot.

2. The threat of return spring frosts must have completely passed. Eggplant is such a delicate plant that even a short-term drop in temperature to 0 °C can kill it (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). Do not take risks, even if the forecast promises only a slight cooling.

Practical advice: If you have the opportunity, measure the soil temperature with an ordinary outdoor thermometer, burying it 10 cm into the ground for several hours. When the temperature is consistently above +15 °C — you can plant.

In most regions, this period occurs:

• In the south (Lower Volga region, North Caucasus, southern Ukraine, Moldova, Central Asia): late April – first ten days of May (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Panteleev, 1986).
• In the middle belt (Non-Black Earth zone of Russia, Belarus): late May – early June, when the danger of frost has finally passed (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986).

Important: For open ground in the middle belt and more northern regions, it is necessary to use only ultra-early ripening varieties with a growing season of 80–100 days and grow them through seedlings (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992). If you plant late or use late-ripening varieties, the fruits simply will not have time to ripen before the autumn cold.

Age and quality of seedlings

Well-developed, hardened seedlings are planted in open ground. Their age should be 60–70 days from germination (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986). Quality seedlings have:

• 6–8 true leaves (sometimes up to 10) (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).
• Stem thickness of 0.6–0.8 cm.
• Plant height of 20–30 cm (Autko et al., 2012).
• It is desirable to have the first buds (but not flowering plants — this will delay establishment).

7–10 days before planting, seedlings begin to be hardened: they are taken out into the fresh air, gradually increasing the time spent in the sun and reducing the storage temperature (Autko et al., 2012).

Planting scheme: give the eggplant space!

The correct planting scheme provides each plant with sufficient feeding area and good illumination, which is critically important for the formation of large and healthy fruits. Dense planting leads to competition for light, water, and nutrition, which reduces yield and increases the risk of diseases.

The planting scheme depends on the variety (bush vigor) and the region:

• For vigorous and medium-vigorous varieties (most common): distance between rows 70 cm, distance between plants in the row — 40–45 cm. This gives a planting density of about 32–36 thousand plants per hectare (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). In a home garden, this means planting with an interval of about 40–50 cm between bushes.
• For ultra-early, low-growing varieties: the scheme can be tightened to 70 × 30 cm, which increases the number of plants to 48 thousand per hectare (Autko et al., 2012). In the middle belt, to accelerate ripening, sometimes a denser planting is used (Swiader, 1992).
• In the south, with good lighting and a long season, sparser schemes may be used, for example, 70 × 50 cm for vigorous varieties, to allow them to develop as much as possible (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Belt method: In commercial vegetable growing, two-row belts are often used, for example, (90 + 50) × 35–40 cm. This means that two rows are placed close to each other (50 cm), followed by a wide row spacing (90 cm). This method is convenient for mechanized care and irrigation (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986). In a small garden, the usual row method with row spacings of 60–70 cm can be used.

Important: Eggplant is a plant that is grown exclusively through seedlings in most of the territory. Direct sowing of seeds in open ground is possible only in the southernmost regions with a very warm climate, and even there it is often grown through seedlings to obtain an earlier harvest (Swiader, 1992; Kemble, 2022). In the middle belt, direct sowing is a waste of time and effort.

So, remember the main thing: plant seedlings only in warm soil, use high-quality planting material, and follow the recommended planting scheme. This is the key to a healthy and rich harvest. In the next chapter, we will examine the planting technique in detail.

Soil preparation before planting

A few days before planting the seedlings, the site needs to be prepared. The task is to create a loose, moist, and nutritious layer for the roots.

1. Digging and loosening. The soil is dug to a depth of at least 20–25 cm, breaking up clods. This improves aeration and water permeability, which is critically important for eggplant, whose root system recovers poorly when damaged and needs oxygen access (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992). If the soil is heavy, clayey, sand and humus can be added to improve the structure (Autko et al., 2012).

2. Fertilizer application. If fertilizers were not applied in the fall, they are added during digging. Ideally, rotted manure or compost is applied to eggplant at the rate of 40–60 t/ha (4–6 kg/m²) (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Autko et al., 2012). Of mineral fertilizers, depending on soil fertility, you can apply, for example, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in a ratio of approximately 30:60:90 kg/ha of active ingredient (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Panteleev, 1986).

Planting technique: step-by-step instructions

1. Marking. Mark out the beds according to the chosen planting scheme (e.g., 70 cm between rows). Stretch a string or make furrows for straight rows.

2. Preparing holes. Dig holes at the distance recommended for your variety (usually 35–45 cm in the row). The depth of the hole should be about 20 cm (Autko et al., 2012). This is necessary to bury the plant up to the cotyledon leaves when planting, which stimulates the formation of additional roots (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

3. Watering the holes. This is a mandatory and most important step! Pour 0.5–1.5 liters of warm water into each hole (Autko et al., 2012). Eggplant is very sensitive to lack of moisture in the first time after transplanting. Moist soil in the root zone will provide them with a comfortable start (Panteleev, 1986). Karataev and Sovetkina (1984) emphasize that potless seedlings planted in dry soil often die.

4. Removing seedlings. Carefully remove the seedlings from cups or boxes, trying not to damage the roots and preserve the root ball. The eggplant's root system recovers poorly, so any damage is stress and a delay in development (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). If the seedlings are grown in peat pots, plant them directly in the hole without disturbing the clod.

5. Planting. Place the plant in the hole. Bury it up to the first cotyledon leaves or slightly lower (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Autko et al., 2012). Cover the roots with moist soil, lightly compacting the soil around the stem to avoid voids. It is important that the root collar is not covered (Swiader, 1992).

6. Mulching (optional). Immediately after planting, if you do not plan to use a film cover, you can mulch the soil around the plants with a thin layer of peat or humus. This will help retain moisture and prevent the formation of a soil crust.

Important nuances and planting time

• Time of day. It is best to plant seedlings in the evening or in cloudy weather. This reduces stress from bright sunlight and gives the plants time to adapt overnight.
• Planting depth. This is a key point. Burying to the cotyledons is a standard practice for solanaceous crops (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Autko et al., 2012). Unlike tomatoes, which can be planted very deep, eggplants should not be deeply buried, as their stem does not form adventitious roots well, and excessive deepening can lead to stem rot (Panteleev, 1986; Swiader, 1992).
• Protection from wind and sun. If hot, sunny weather is expected after planting, the plants should be shaded for the first 2–3 days. You can use burdock leaves, lightweight non-woven material, or simply cover them with newspapers. This will help them avoid sunburn and establish better.

After the seedlings are planted, all holes are watered, and the plants are shaded (if necessary), the next stage begins — care, which we will discuss in the following chapters. Proper planting is 50% of success in growing eggplant!

Why mulch eggplants?

Mulch (covering the soil surface) performs several important functions at once:

1. Moisture retention. Mulch prevents rapid evaporation of water from the soil surface, especially in hot weather. This is critically important for eggplant, which is very demanding of soil moisture (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992). An even and stable moisture level reduces the risk of blossom-end rot and other problems.

2. Soil temperature regulation. In cool weather, black mulch (film) accumulates solar heat, helping the soil to warm up faster (Kemble, 2022). In hot weather, light mulch (straw, white film) reflects sunlight, protecting the roots from overheating, which is especially relevant for southern regions.

3. Weed suppression. Weeds are the main competitors of cultivated plants for water and nutrition. Mulch creates a physical barrier that greatly hinders their growth, especially in the first weeks when eggplants are still weak (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992).

4. Fruit cleanliness. With mulching, fruits do not come into contact with the soil, remain clean, and are less affected by soil rots.

Types of mulch for eggplant

Depending on your goals, climate, and availability of materials, you can choose one of the options:

1. Organic mulch (straw, hay, sawdust, cut grass, humus, compost, bark)

• Advantages: Improves soil structure as it decomposes, serves as an additional source of nutrition, available, environmentally friendly. Protects well against soil overheating.
• Disadvantages: Can attract slugs, requires renewal during the season. In cold and rainy summers, it can slow down soil warming.

How to use: After planting the seedlings, spread a layer of organic mulch 5–8 cm thick around the plants and in the row spacings, leaving a small space around the stem to avoid rotting. In cool regions, it is better to use black film for warming in spring, and add organic mulch later, when the soil has warmed up well.

2. Polyethylene (synthetic) mulch

• Black film: The most popular option for early and spring planting in cool and temperate regions. It warms the soil well, retains moisture, and completely suppresses weeds (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992). Use film at least 30–40 microns thick. Disadvantages include that the soil underneath can overheat on the hottest days, requiring additional monitoring.
• White or reflective (metallized) film: Ideal for plantings in hot regions or for summer plantings (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992). It reflects sunlight, cooling the soil and reducing heat stress on plants. In addition, reflective properties repel aphids and other insect pests (Kemble, 2022).

How to use: The film is spread on the prepared beds before planting, pressing it tightly to the soil at the edges. Cuts (cross-shaped or round) are made at the planting sites and seedlings are planted in them.

Important rule when using synthetic mulch: A drip irrigation system must be organized under the film, as water cannot penetrate through it from above (Kemble, 2022). Without drip irrigation, the plants will die from lack of moisture.

3. Combined approach (most effective for many regions)

Use black film for early warming and weed protection. When severe heat sets in, you can shade the film with a layer of straw or light white mulch to prevent root overheating.

Protection from adverse conditions

Even with proper planting and mulching, weather surprises can cause damage. Be prepared to protect your plants.

1. Protection from spring frosts. The greatest danger for eggplant. Young plants can die already at -0.5 °C (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). For protection, use:

• Individual covers: Cut off the bottom of plastic bottles and cover each plant at night.
• Non-woven cover material (spunbond, agrotex): Cover the beds at night, using arcs or simply throwing the material over the plants. In the morning, when the temperature rises, the cover should be removed to prevent plants from overheating and stretching.
• Tunnel covers made of film or spunbond on arcs: This method is used for early planting of seedlings. It creates a warm microclimate, protects from wind, and promotes faster plant development (Panteleev, 1986; Kemble, 2022). On sunny days, such covers must be ventilated.

2. Protection from overheating and sunburn. In southern regions, summer heat (temperatures above +30 °C) can cause flower and fruit drop, as well as fruit sunburn (Autko et al., 2012). For protection, use:

• Shading: During the hottest hours, you can shade the plants with lightweight non-woven material or special shading netting.
• Light mulch: White or straw mulch on the soil surface will help keep roots cool.
• Regular watering: Watering in hot weather helps the plant tolerate high temperatures.

3. Protection from wind. Strong winds can damage delicate stems and reduce pollination efficiency. In areas exposed to wind, use windbreaks or plant eggplants next to tall plants (nurse crops), such as corn or sunflowers (Panteleev, 1986).

Brief summary:

• Mulching is a must! It saves your time, retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and stabilizes soil temperature.
• Choose mulch according to climate: Black film for spring and cool regions, light (white, straw) — for hot regions.
• Protect from frost! Use cover material at the slightest threat of cold weather.
• Prevent overheating in severe heat: use shading and abundant watering.

In the next chapter, we will move on to one of the most important aspects of care — watering.

Why is eggplant so demanding of moisture?

Eggplant has a powerful above-ground mass and a relatively shallow, poorly branching root system (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). The bulk of the roots is located in the upper soil layer (20–30 cm). To "feed" large fleshy fruits, the plant needs a lot of water. At the same time, due to the large leaf surface, it actively evaporates moisture, especially in hot weather (Swiader, 1992).

Thus, eggplant constantly needs a sufficient amount of available moisture in the root zone, but does not tolerate waterlogging.

Basic watering rules

1. Water only with warm water. This is a fundamental rule! Cold water (from a well, borehole, or tap) causes severe stress in eggplant. Root activity decreases, and the plant can wilt even in moist soil. In addition, cold water promotes the development of root rot (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). Use water that has been warmed in the sun to a temperature of at least +20…+22 °C.

2. Water deeply, not often. Frequent surface watering moistens only the top layer of soil, forcing the roots to develop superficially. This makes the plant dependent on frequent watering and more vulnerable to drought (Swiader, 1992). Water abundantly so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of 30–40 cm — the main root zone. In hot weather, watering 1–2 times a week is enough, but abundantly (10–15 liters per 1 m² or more, depending on the soil) (Autko et al., 2012; Swiader, 1992).

3. Water at the root. Avoid getting water on the leaves, especially in hot sunny weather — this can cause burns. It is best to water directly into the furrows or holes, trying not to erode the soil around the stem. This is important for preventing fungal diseases.

4. The best time for watering is morning or evening. Watering during the heat of the day is undesirable, as water evaporates quickly and can cause burns on leaves in bright sun. Morning watering is preferable, as it allows moisture to be absorbed before the heat sets in. Evening watering is also acceptable, but be careful: in cool nights, moisture can linger and contribute to the development of diseases (Autko et al., 2012; Kemble, 2022).

Watering by development phases

The need for water changes depending on the growth phase:

• Before flowering (after planting seedlings): Moderate watering, enough to support plant establishment and growth. Do not over-moisten the soil to avoid diseases.
• During flowering and fruit formation: This is the most critical period! A lack of moisture during flowering can cause flowers and ovaries to drop (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). During this period, watering should be regular and especially abundant. The soil should not dry out.
• During fruiting: Watering continues regularly. It is especially important during the period of active fruit filling. Reduce watering only 2–3 weeks before the final harvest to improve fruit quality and storage.

How to determine that eggplants need watering?

• By the condition of the soil. At a depth of 10–15 cm, the soil should be moist, but not wet. You can check by digging with a stick or your finger.
• By the state of the plants. In the morning, the leaves are turgid and elastic. If by midday the leaves begin to droop and lose turgor — this is a clear signal that the plants need urgent watering (Swiader, 1992). However, do not wait for wilting; it is better to water in advance.

Watering and mulching: a perfect tandem

Mulching greatly facilitates watering. Mulch prevents rapid evaporation of moisture, keeping the soil moist and preventing the formation of a crust. With mulch, you can water less often. When using black film, watering is carried out exclusively through a drip irrigation system laid under the film (Kemble, 2022).

Important: After watering or rain, if the soil is not mulched, be sure to loosen the soil surface shallowly (to a depth of 3–5 cm) to destroy the crust and improve aeration. However, loosen carefully so as not to damage the superficial roots of the eggplant (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Signs of improper watering

• Waterlogging: Leaves turn pale, become yellowish, plants look depressed, flowers and ovaries may drop. Root rot may develop (Autko et al., 2012; Swiader, 1992).
• Lack of moisture: Leaves lose turgor, droop, curl, become brittle and dry out at the edges. Plant growth stops, flowers and ovaries fall off. Fruits become bitter, small, ugly (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992).

Brief summary:

• Water only with warm, settled water.
• Water abundantly (to a depth of 30–40 cm), but less frequently (1–2 times a week in moderate weather, more often in heat).
• The most critical periods for watering are flowering and fruit formation.
• Combine watering with mulching — this saves moisture and reduces the need for frequent watering.
• Do not allow either drying out or waterlogging of the soil.

In the next chapter, we will look at the features of fertilizing eggplants in open ground.

What nutrients are important for eggplant?

• Nitrogen (N): Necessary for the active growth of green mass (stems and leaves) at the initial stage of development. However, excess nitrogen during the fruiting period leads to "fatting" — excessive leaf growth at the expense of fruit formation (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).
• Phosphorus (P): A key element for the development of a powerful root system, flowering, and fruit setting. Phosphorus is especially important at early growth stages and during budding (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Autko et al., 2012).
• Potassium (K): The most important element for eggplant, especially during the fruiting period. Potassium is responsible for fruit filling, their taste, pulp density, and also increases plant resistance to diseases and drought (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992).
• Microelements (boron, magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc): Play an important role in metabolism. Boron deficiency, for example, leads to flower and fruit drop, and magnesium deficiency leads to leaf chlorosis (Autko et al., 2012).

Fertilizing scheme by growth phases

1. First fertilizing (10–14 days after planting seedlings)

This is a starter fertilizing, the purpose of which is to help the plant establish faster in the new location and begin actively building vegetative mass. During this period, the plant needs nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

• What composition: It is best to use a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, nitroammophoska (16:16:16) or a special fertilizer for tomatoes and peppers. You can use an infusion of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20), but in this case it is important to add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, as there is little of them in organic matter.
• Dosage: Approximately 30–40 g of complex fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Consumption: 0.5–1 liter per plant (Autko et al., 2012). If using organic matter, add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate per bucket of infusion.

2. Second fertilizing (before mass flowering, 20–25 days after the first)

A critical period begins — the setting of flowers and future harvest. Now the plant needs phosphorus for better flowering and fruit setting.

• What composition: Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. A mixture of superphosphate (30–40 g) and potassium sulfate (15–20 g) per 10 liters of water (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). You can use monopotassium phosphate according to instructions.
• Dosage: 1–1.5 liters per plant.

3. Third and subsequent fertilizing (during the fruiting period)

These are the most important fertilizing, as during this time the plant forms the bulk of the fruits and needs enhanced potassium nutrition.

• What composition: With a potassium emphasis. For example, potassium sulfate (20–25 g per 10 liters of water) or a specialized fertilizer for fruit crops with a high content of potassium and phosphorus (Kemble, 2022). You can alternate root fertilizing with foliar fertilizing, which we will discuss below.
• Dosage: 1.5–2 liters per plant.
• Frequency: Carry out such fertilizing every 10–14 days throughout the fruiting period (Swiader, 1992). Stop fertilizing 2–3 weeks before the final harvest.

Methods of fertilizer application

1. Root fertilizing (in liquid form). The main method. Fertilizers are dissolved in water and applied under the root. This allows nutrients to quickly reach the root system. Important: water with fertilizer only on moist soil (after the main watering) to avoid burning the roots.

2. Foliar fertilizing (on the leaf). This is spraying plants with a weak fertilizer solution. Especially effective for the rapid delivery of microelements (boron, magnesium, manganese) and for supporting plants in stressful situations (e.g., in heat or drought) (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986).

• When: During flowering to improve fruit set (spray with a solution of boric acid — 1 g per 1 liter of water). During fruiting to improve the taste and quality of fruits (spray with a solution of potassium sulfate — 5 g per 1 liter of water).
• Important: Carry out foliar fertilizing better in the evening or in cloudy weather, so that the solution stays on the leaves longer and does not cause burns.

Signs of nutrient deficiency: how to understand what is missing?

• Nitrogen deficiency: Leaves become pale green, small, lower leaves turn yellow and fall off. Plant growth slows down.
• Phosphorus deficiency: Leaves acquire a purple tint (especially on the underside), grow small. Flowering is weak, few ovaries set.
• Potassium deficiency: A dry border (marginal burn) appears along the edges of the leaves. Leaves become wrinkled, fruits — small and tasteless.
• Boron deficiency: Dropping of flowers and ovaries, fruit deformation. Apical growing points die off.
• Magnesium deficiency: Leaves become spotted — chlorotic (yellow) areas appear between the veins, especially on the lower leaves (Autko et al., 2012).

Brief summary:

• Eggplant is a crop with high nutritional requirements.
• Fertilizing scheme: first — nitrogen for growth; second — phosphorus-potassium for flowering; subsequent — potassium for fruiting.
• Alternate root and foliar fertilizing, not forgetting about microelements.
• Carefully observe the plants: they themselves will tell you what they need.

Proper nutrition combined with mulching and competent watering creates all the conditions for vigorous growth and abundant fruiting. In the next chapter, we will consider the issues of formation and staking of eggplants in open ground.

Why form and stake eggplants in open ground?

1. Improving illumination and ventilation. A properly formed bush is better ventilated and receives more sunlight. This reduces the risk of fungal diseases, especially in damp and rainy weather (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

2. Redirecting nutrition. Removing excess shoots (suckers) allows the plant to direct all its energy to the formation and ripening of fruits, rather than to building unnecessary green mass (Autko et al., 2012; Swiader, 1992).

3. Protection from damage. Staking to supports prevents stems from lodging and branches from breaking under the weight of fruits, especially in tall varieties.

4. Fruit cleanliness. Fruits raised above the ground have less contact with the soil, remain clean, and are not affected by soil rots.

Do eggplants need to be formed in open ground?

Yes, in most cases formation is necessary, especially in regions with short and cool summers. However, the degree of formation depends on the variety and climatic conditions.

Basic principles of formation:

1. Removal of suckers (suckering). Suckers are side shoots that develop in the leaf axils. If they are not removed, the bush turns into a dense, shaded "giant bush" that produces a lot of greenery and small fruits. Remove suckers when they reach a length of 5–7 cm (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). It is better to do this regularly, preventing them from overgrowing. Suckers are carefully broken out or cut off with a sharp knife, leaving a small stump (1–2 cm) so as not to damage the main stem.

2. Pinching the apical growing point (topping). This technique is used to stop the plant's growth in height and redirect nutrients to the ripening of already set fruits. It is usually carried out 30–40 days before the onset of autumn frosts (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Panteleev, 1986). The top of the main stem is pinched, leaving 2–3 leaves above the last ovary. In southern regions with a long season, topping is often not carried out or is done much later.

3. Removal of lower leaves and yellowed foliage. Lower leaves touching the ground, as well as all yellowed or damaged leaves, should be removed regularly. They do not perform a photosynthetic function, but serve as a source of infection and create excess humidity in the root zone (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992).

Formation schemes in open ground

The choice of scheme depends on the variety and region.

1. For medium-vigorous and vigorous varieties (most common) — formation into 2–3 stems (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

• How to form: Leave the main stem and 1–2 strongest upper suckers (those located under the first flower cluster). Remove the remaining suckers. The result is a bush of 2–3 powerful shoots, on which the main harvest will set.

2. For ultra-early and low-growing varieties (for the middle belt and northern regions) — formation into 1 stem (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Panteleev, 1986).

• How to form: Remove all suckers, leaving only one main stem. Leave 2–3 lower flower clusters on it and allow 4–6 fruits to form. Remove the remaining flowers and ovaries. This allows obtaining an early and uniform harvest even in short summer conditions.

3. For southern regions (with a long warm season) — formation into 3 stems or more (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

• In warm regions, where the season lasts up to 5–6 months, eggplant can be formed into 3 stems, leaving more shoots and not limiting the number of fruits on the bush. This gives the maximum total yield.

Staking to supports

Staking is a mandatory element, especially for varieties with large fruits and for regions with windy weather.

• When to stake: 1–2 weeks after planting, when the plants have established and started growing. As the bush grows, staking is repeated 2–3 times per season.
• Staking methods in open ground:

1. Stakes. The simplest and most common method. A wooden or metal stake 50–70 cm high (higher than the adult plant) is driven near each plant. The stem is tied to the stake with soft twine or strips of fabric in several places as it grows. The tie should be loose so as not to constrict the stem.

2. Trellis. A more reliable method for tall varieties. Strong posts are driven along the row (every 3–4 meters) and wire or twine is stretched between them at a height of 1.5–2 meters. Each shoot is tied separately to this upper support. This method provides better illumination and ventilation of the bushes.

Regional features

• For southern regions (Lower Volga region, North Caucasus, Moldova, Central Asia): Formation is often carried out into 3 stems or more. Topping is not practiced or is carried out very late. Staking may not be mandatory for low-growing varieties, but for tall ones — it is recommended (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Autko et al., 2012).
• For the middle belt (Non-Black Earth zone, Belarus): Formation into 1–2 stems is mandatory, active suckering and mandatory topping 30–40 days before frost. Without these techniques, the fruits simply will not have time to ripen. Staking is mandatory (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986).

Brief summary:

• Formation is a must! Without it, you will get a bush with small fruits that will be diseased.
• Choose a scheme depending on the region and variety: 1 stem for cold climates, 2–3 stems for warm ones.
• Regularly remove suckers and lower leaves — this improves ventilation and redirects nutrition to the fruits.
• Be sure to stake tall and vigorous varieties to protect the stems from damage.
• Topping is a key technique for accelerating ripening in regions with short summers.

Proper formation and staking, combined with other agrotechnical techniques, is a direct path to obtaining a healthy and abundant eggplant harvest. In the next chapter, we will move on to issues of protection against major diseases and pests.

Major eggplant diseases in open ground

1. Late blight (Phytophthora infestans)

One of the most dangerous and widespread fungal diseases, affecting all above-ground parts of the plant: leaves, stems, and fruits (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Symptoms: Brown, blurry spots appear on the leaves, which rapidly expand. On the underside of the leaf in wet weather, a white cobweb-like coating (fungal sporulation) forms. Brown, hard spots appear on stems and fruits, which gradually rot (Autko et al., 2012).

Conditions for development: The disease actively develops at high air humidity (dew, fogs, rains), moderate temperatures (+10...+22 °C), and sharp fluctuations in day and night temperatures (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Autko et al., 2012).

Control measures:

• Prevention: Crop rotation (do not plant eggplants after potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers). Removal of plant residues. Planting seedlings in well-ventilated areas. Regular removal of lower leaves.
• Protection: Preventive treatments with copper-containing preparations or biological fungicides, starting from the budding phase, especially in wet weather (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

2. Alternaria, or dry spot (Alternaria solani)

A fungal disease that often affects eggplants in hot and humid weather (Autko et al., 2012).

Symptoms: Dry, round brown spots with concentric rings resembling a target appear on the leaves. Spots may merge, causing leaf death. Dark, depressed spots covered with black bloom appear on fruits (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Control measures: Prevention and treatment are the same as for late blight. It is important to alternate preparations with different active ingredients to avoid resistance.

3. Blossom-end rot (Blossom-end rot)

A physiological (non-infectious) disease associated with calcium deficiency in fruits, which often occurs with uneven watering (Kemble, 2022; Autko et al., 2012).

Symptoms: At the top of the fruit (on the side opposite the stem), a watery, depressed spot appears, which quickly darkens, becomes dry or weeping, and increases in size. Affected fruits become inedible (Kemble, 2022; Autko et al., 2012).

Causes: Calcium deficiency in the soil or its unavailability to the plant due to:

• Sharp fluctuations in soil moisture (from dryness to waterlogging), which disrupts calcium absorption by roots (Swiader, 1992).
• Excess nitrogen fertilizers, especially in ammoniacal form, which competes with calcium.
• High soil acidity.

Control measures:

• Regular and uniform watering — the main prevention.
• Application of calcium fertilizers (e.g., calcium nitrate) as root or foliar fertilizing at the first signs of the disease (Kemble, 2022; Autko et al., 2012).
• Maintaining an optimal pH level (6.0–6.5).

4. Gray mold (Botrytis cinerea)

A fungal disease that affects weakened plants, especially in damp and cool weather (Kemble, 2022).

Symptoms: Brown, weeping spots covered with fluffy gray bloom appear on leaves, stems, and fruits. Injury sites and lower leaves touching the ground are particularly often affected.

Control measures:

• Removal of affected plant parts.
• Ensuring good ventilation (regular removal of suckers and lower leaves).
• Treatment with biological or approved fungicides.

Major pests of eggplant in open ground

1. Colorado potato beetle (Leptinotarsa decemlineata)

The most dangerous pest of solanaceous crops. Adult beetles and their larvae eat leaves, leaving only veins, which can completely destroy the plant (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Symptoms: Detection of bright orange egg clusters on the underside of leaves, orange larvae (resembling little worms), and the beetle itself with characteristic black-yellow stripes. Leaves eaten down to bare stems.

Control measures:

• Regular inspection and manual collection of egg clusters, larvae, and beetles (especially effective in small areas).
• Use of biological preparations (e.g., based on Bacillus thuringiensis) against young larvae.
• At high numbers — treatment with approved insecticides, strictly observing waiting periods (interval between treatment and harvest).

2. Aphids (Aphididae)

Small sucking insects that colonize the underside of leaves, young shoots, and flowers. Aphids suck sap, weaken the plant, and are carriers of viral diseases (Kemble, 2022).

Symptoms: Leaves curl, turn yellow, become covered with sticky residue (honeydew). Clusters of small insects are visible on the underside of leaves.

Control measures:

• Attracting natural enemies — ladybugs and lacewings.
• Spraying with soap solution or herbal infusions (garlic, onion, nettle) at early stages.
• In case of severe infestation — treatment with systemic insecticides.

3. Spider mite (Tetranychus urticae)

A tiny pest that feeds on leaf sap, especially in hot and dry weather (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992).

Symptoms: Small yellowish dots (punctures) appear on leaves. In severe infestation, leaves become mottled, turn yellow, become covered with fine webs, and dry out. Mites live on the underside of the leaf.

Control measures:

• Maintaining increased air humidity (spraying plants with water, especially in heat) — mites do not like humidity (Kemble, 2022).
• Regular inspection of the underside of leaves.
• Upon detection — treatment with acaricides (special preparations against mites) or biological products (e.g., based on avermectin).

4. Cutworms (Agrotis spp.)

Nocturnal moths, whose caterpillars gnaw the stems of young plants at ground level, causing their death, or eat fruits (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Symptoms: Wilted plants with stems gnawed at the base. Large, irregular cavities on fruits.

Control measures:

• Regular weeding, especially around the plot.
• Soil loosening to destroy pupae and caterpillars.
• Manual collection of caterpillars in the evening.
• Application of biological products (e.g., based on Bacillus thuringiensis) or approved insecticides.

Plant protection system: key principles

For successful protection of eggplants in open ground, use an integrated approach combining agrotechnical, biological, and chemical methods (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Kemble, 2022).

Brief summary:

• Regularly inspect plants — this will allow you to notice the problem at an early stage.
• Prevention is the best cure. Healthy, well-cared-for plants are much less susceptible to diseases and pests.
• Use biological methods first and foremost, especially during the fruiting period.
• Resort to chemical preparations only as a last resort and strictly according to the instructions.
• Remember the waiting periods — a certain time must pass (indicated on the package) before you can harvest the fruits for food.

In the next chapter, we will look at the features of harvesting eggplants in open ground.

When to harvest eggplants? Determining ripeness

Eggplants, unlike tomatoes, do not ripen after harvest. If you pick a fruit green, it will remain that way and will be bitter. Therefore, it is very important to wait for the correct stage of maturity.

Main rule: Harvest eggplants at the stage of technical ripeness, when they have reached the size and color characteristic of the variety, but the seeds inside are still tender and not hardened (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992).

The main signs by which you can determine that an eggplant is ready for harvest:

Important: Do not let eggplants overripen on the bush! Overripe fruits become bitter, with coarse, fibrous flesh, unsuitable for food (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992). As soon as you notice that the gloss has disappeared and the color has become dull — harvest immediately!

Harvesting features in open ground: the time factor

1. Start of harvest: The first fruits are ready for harvest 30–40 days after flowering (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). For early varieties in open ground, this may be early July, for mid-season and late varieties — late July – August.

2. Harvest frequency: Pick fruits regularly, 1–2 times a week, and in hot weather — even more often (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992). This stimulates the plant to set new flowers and fruits, prolonging the fruiting period. If you leave ripe fruits on the bush, the plant will direct all its energy to their "ripening" (seed maturation) and stop forming new ovaries (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

3. End of harvest: In open ground, the harvest season is limited by weather. In the middle belt and more northern regions, harvesting must be completed before the first autumn frosts. Even a light frost can damage the fruits, making them unsuitable for storage (Swiader, 1992). In southern regions, harvesting can continue until October.

How to properly harvest eggplants: safety technique

1. Use tools: Do not tear or twist the fruit by hand! The eggplant has a very strong and rigid stem, and if you try to tear it off, you can break the stem or branch, damaging the plant itself (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992).

• Correct: Cut the fruit with a sharp knife or pruner, leaving a stem 1.5–2 cm long (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

2. Careful handling: Place the cut fruits carefully in containers. Eggplants are very easily damaged; their skin is thin and sensitive to impacts, pressure, and scratches (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992). Even small damage reduces shelf life and makes the fruit vulnerable to rot.

• Tip: Use baskets or boxes for harvesting, the bottom of which is lined with soft cloth. Place fruits in 2–3 layers, no more, so that the lower ones do not get crushed.

3. Harvest time: The best time for harvest is morning hours, when the fruits are still cool and firm (Kemble, 2022). In heat, eggplants wilt faster and lose their marketable appearance.

Features of storing eggplants from open ground

Eggplants are a perishable product. They store poorly compared to root crops or cucurbits.

• Short-term storage: At room temperature, fruits stay fresh for 2–3 days. In the refrigerator (in the vegetable drawer, at +7...+10 °C and 90–95% humidity), the shelf life increases to 1–2 weeks (Swiader, 1992). Important: do not store eggplants in plastic bags without air access — they will suffocate and spoil.
• Long-term storage: Eggplants are not suitable for long-term storage. It is best to freeze, dry, or process them (make caviar, preserves) immediately after harvest (Kemble, 2022).
• Important: Do not wash eggplants before storing. Moisture on the surface promotes rot development. Simply wipe the fruits with a dry cloth if they are dirty (Swiader, 1992).

What to do with fruits that did not have time to ripen?

If the autumn is cold and fruits remain on the bushes that have not had time to reach technical ripeness (small, uncolored), they can be harvested and used for canning, for example, for making caviar or pickling (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). They will not ripen, but in processed form they can be tasty.

Brief summary:

• Harvest eggplants at the stage of technical ripeness: bright color, gloss, firmness.
• Do not allow overripening — fruits will become bitter and tough.
• Cut fruits with the stem using a knife or pruner, not by tearing by hand.
• Harvest regularly (1–2 times a week) to stimulate further fruiting.
• Complete harvesting before the onset of autumn frosts.
• Store fruits carefully, avoiding impacts and damage.
• Eggplants are not suitable for long-term storage — it is better to process them.

In the next chapter, we will analyze typical problems of open ground and ways to solve them.

1. Weather and climatic problems

Problem 1: Cold weather and frosts

As we already know, eggplant is the most heat-loving of the solanaceous crops. A drop in temperature below +15 °C stops its growth, and frosts can completely kill the plant (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992).

Symptoms: Plants look depressed, leaves droop, lose turgor. During frosts — leaves and stems become watery, turn black, and die (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Solution:

• Prevention: Do not plant seedlings in open ground until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to +18 °C.
• Protection against cold snaps: Keep cover material (spunbond, agrotex, film) on hand. If frost is threatened, cover the plants overnight. You can use plastic bottles for individual protection.
• Biostimulants: In case of prolonged cold weather, treat plants with anti-stress preparations (e.g., epin, zircon) to increase resistance to adverse conditions (Autko et al., 2012).

Problem 2: Extreme heat and overheating

At temperatures above +30...+35 °C, the processes of pollination and fruit setting in eggplant are disrupted. Pollen becomes sterile, flowers and ovaries drop (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). Sunburn on fruits is also possible.

Symptoms: Massive dropping of flowers and ovaries. Fruits that have set may be misshapen. Light, dry spots appear on fruits — sunburn.

Solution:

• Shading: During the hottest hours (from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.), shade the plants with lightweight non-woven material, shading netting, or simply branches.
• Mulching: Use light mulch (white film, straw) to protect roots from overheating (Kemble, 2022).
• Abundant watering: Increase the frequency of watering in heat. Root watering with warm water helps the plant tolerate high temperatures.
• Spraying: In the evening, you can carry out refreshing spraying of leaves with water to increase air humidity and lower temperature.

Problem 3: Strong wind

Wind can damage the delicate stems of eggplant, knock off flowers, and contribute to rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil surface and leaves (Panteleev, 1986).

Solution:

• Choosing a location: Plant eggplants in areas protected from prevailing winds (e.g., on the south side of a house, fence, hedge).
• Windbreaks: Create artificial barriers from netting, shields, or tall plants (e.g., corn, sunflowers) (Panteleev, 1986).
• Staking: Be sure to stake plants to strong supports so that wind does not break them.

2. Problems with watering and nutrition

Problem 4: Blossom-end rot

This non-infectious disease is associated with calcium deficiency, which often arises from uneven watering (Kemble, 2022; Autko et al., 2012).

Symptoms: At the top of the fruit (the flower end), a dark, watery, depressed spot appears, which gradually enlarges and becomes dry or weeping (Autko et al., 2012).

Solution:

• Regular watering: The most important method of prevention. Do not allow sharp fluctuations in soil moisture (Swiader, 1992).
• Mulching: Keeps soil moisture stable.
• Foliar feeding: At the first signs of the disease, spray the plants with a solution of calcium nitrate (1–2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) (Kemble, 2022; Autko et al., 2012).
• Acidity control: Apply lime or dolomite flour to maintain pH 6.0–6.5.

Problem 5: Leaf chlorosis (yellowing)

Leaf yellowing can be caused by several reasons: nitrogen, magnesium, iron deficiency (especially on alkaline soils), excess moisture, or waterlogging.

Symptoms:

• Nitrogen deficiency: Leaves are pale green, small, lower leaves turn yellow and fall off (Autko et al., 2012).
• Magnesium deficiency: Yellowing between veins on lower leaves, the veins themselves remain green (Autko et al., 2012).
• Iron deficiency: Yellowing between veins on young upper leaves (chlorosis).

Solution:

• Check the watering regime. Chlorosis often occurs due to overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
• Apply fertilizers: If the problem is nutritional deficiency, carry out foliar feeding with a complex fertilizer with microelements or special formulations (e.g., iron chelates).

3. Problems with flowering and fruiting

Problem 6: Dropping flowers and ovaries

One of the most common problems, especially in hot and rainy weather.

Causes (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992):

• Temperature stress: Above +35 °C or below +15 °C — pollen becomes sterile.
• Moisture deficiency: Soil drying out during the flowering period.
• Excess moisture: Water stagnation at the roots.
• Nutritional deficiency: Especially phosphorus and potassium.
• Poor pollination: Due to lack of wind or insects.

Solution:

• Temperature control: Use shading in heat and covering in cold.
• Stable watering: Maintain soil moisture at a constant level.
• Balanced fertilizing: Especially phosphorus-potassium during the flowering period. Treatment with boric acid (1 g per 1 liter of water) improves fruit set (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986).
• Attracting pollinating insects: Plant honey plants (calendula, phacelia) next to eggplants.

4. Problems with fruits

Problem 7: Small or misshapen fruits

Causes:

• Dense planting: Plants lack light and nutrition.
• Nutritional deficiency: Especially potassium during the fruiting period.
• Poor pollination: Partial pollination leads to fruit asymmetry.
• Stress: Any stress (drought, waterlogging, diseases) affects fruit size and shape.

Solution: Compliance with all agrotechnical rules: correct planting scheme, timely watering, balanced fertilizing, protection from stresses.

Problem 8: Fruit bitterness

Bitterness in eggplants is caused by the accumulation of solanine and other alkaloids. Normally, fruits at technical ripeness contain little of them, but during overripening or stressful conditions, their content may increase (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Causes:

• Overripening: The most common case.
• Moisture deficiency: Stress promotes bitterness accumulation.
• Temperature fluctuations: Cold weather also increases bitterness.

Solution:

• Harvest fruits on time — at the stage of technical ripeness.
• Provide plants with regular watering and protection from stresses.

5. Problems with diseases and pests

(Detailed in chapter 8. Here is a brief summary and general principles)

• Late blight and Alternaria: Prevention (crop rotation, ventilation) and preventive treatments with fungicides (biological or chemical) in wet weather.
• Blossom-end rot: Regular watering and foliar feeding with calcium nitrate.
• Colorado potato beetle: Manual collection, biological products against larvae, as a last resort — insecticides.
• Aphids and spider mites: Regular inspections, biological products, insecticides in case of severe infestation.

Brief summary:

Most problems in open ground are related to weather conditions and violations of agrotechnics. Carefully observe your plants: they always signal their state. Timely reaction is the key to success. Do not be afraid to adjust care depending on the weather: water more often in heat, cover in cold, fertilize as needed. And remember that a strong, healthy plant copes with stress much more easily and is less susceptible to diseases.

In the next, concluding chapter, we will analyze typical mistakes gardeners make when growing eggplants in open ground, so that you can avoid them.

Mistake 1: Planting in cold soil

What the mistake is: Planting seedlings in open ground too early, when the soil has not yet warmed up to +15...+18 °C. Gardeners often focus on calendar dates or on the fact that "neighbors have already planted."

Consequences: In cold, wet soil, the eggplant roots do not work, do not absorb water and nutrients. The plant "freezes," stops growing, starts to get sick. Rotting of the root collar and plant death are possible (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992). Even if the plant survives, it will be severely stunted, and the harvest will be late and meager.

How to do it right: Do not rush! Wait for stable warmth. Check the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm. The optimal temperature is not lower than +18 °C. If in doubt — it is better to wait another week or use temporary covers to protect from cold (Autko et al., 2012).

Mistake 2: Watering with cold water

What the mistake is: Watering eggplants with water straight from a well, borehole, or tap, without prior warming.

Consequences: Cold water causes severe stress in eggplant. Roots stop absorbing moisture, the plant wilts even in moist soil. With regular watering with cold water, the root system weakens, the plant becomes susceptible to diseases, growth slows down, flowers and ovaries drop (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

How to do it right: Always use only warm water, heated in the sun, for watering. To do this, place a barrel or other container in the sun and fill it with water a day before watering. The water temperature should be not lower than +20 °C (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Mistake 3: Shallow and frequent watering

What the mistake is: Watering eggplants often, but little by little, superficially wetting only the top layer of soil.

Consequences: With surface watering, the eggplant roots do not go deep, but develop in the surface layer, where the soil quickly dries out and overheats (Swiader, 1992). The plant becomes dependent on each watering, cannot extract moisture from deep layers, and suffers at the slightest drought. In addition, surface watering provokes weed growth.

How to do it right: Water eggplants rarely (1–2 times a week), but abundantly, so that the water wets the soil to a depth of 30–40 cm (Autko et al., 2012). Check the wetting depth by digging the soil with a shovel. Use mulching to retain moisture (Kemble, 2022).

Mistake 4: Excess nitrogen fertilizers

What the mistake is: Excessive enthusiasm for nitrogen fertilizers (manure, bird droppings, urea, ammonium nitrate) to the detriment of phosphorus-potassium, especially during the fruiting period.

Consequences: Plants "fat" — build up a huge green mass (leaves, stems) to the detriment of fruit formation. Flowering is delayed, few ovaries set, fruits are formed small and tasteless (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). In addition, excess nitrogen makes plant tissues loose, which attracts aphids and increases susceptibility to fungal diseases.

How to do it right: Follow a balanced fertilizing scheme (see chapter 6). At the initial stage, give nitrogen for growth, but with the transition to flowering and fruiting, sharply increase the proportion of phosphorus and potassium. At the first signs of "fatting" (huge dark green leaves), stop nitrogen fertilizing and increase potassium-phosphorus (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).

Mistake 5: Ignoring suckering and formation

What the mistake is: Leaving all suckers on the eggplant, growing the bush "as is," without formation.

Consequences: A dense, overgrown bush is poorly ventilated and illuminated, which creates ideal conditions for the development of fungal diseases (late blight, gray mold) (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). Nutrients are spent on the growth of numerous shoots, and not on fruit filling. As a result, there are many fruits, but they are small, and the total yield is significantly lower than potential (Autko et al., 2012).

How to do it right: Form the bush depending on the region and variety (see chapter 7). In the middle belt — be sure to sucker and form into 1–2 stems. In southern regions, you can leave 3–4 stems. Regularly remove suckers and lower leaves touching the ground (Kemble, 2022; Swiader, 1992).

Mistake 6: Overgrown seedlings

What the mistake is: Growing seedlings at home for longer than 70–75 days or in conditions of insufficient light, which leads to their stretching and weakening.

Consequences: Overgrown, stretched seedlings establish very poorly in open ground. They have a weak root system, a thin stem, and suffer greatly from wind and sun. Plants are sick for a long time, enter fruiting late (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). This is especially critical for the middle belt with a short season — the harvest simply will not have time to ripen.

How to do it right: Observe the optimal timing of seed sowing. Seedlings should be planted in the ground at the age of 60–70 days, have 6–8 true leaves, and a stocky stem (Autko et al., 2012; Panteleev, 1986). If the seedlings begin to stretch, provide them with additional lighting and reduce the storage temperature (especially at night).

Mistake 7: Ignoring crop rotation

What the mistake is: Planting eggplants in the same place or after other solanaceous crops (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes) for several years in a row.

Consequences: Pathogens of diseases (especially late blight, fusarium, verticillium) and pests (e.g., Colorado potato beetle) that affect all solanaceous crops accumulate in the soil (Autko et al., 2012; Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). Yield drops sharply, plants get sick.

How to do it right: Observe crop rotation. Return eggplants to their previous place no earlier than after 3–4 years (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Kemble, 2022). Best predecessors: cabbage, onions, cucumbers, cucurbits, legumes, root crops.

Mistake 8: Harvesting overripe fruits

What the mistake is: Leaving fruits on the bush until full "ripening" (biological ripeness), when they lose their gloss and become dull, brownish.

Consequences: Overripe fruits become bitter, with coarse, fibrous flesh and hard seeds, unsuitable for food (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader, 1992). In addition, ripe fruits left on the bush signal the plant that the seeds have ripened, and it stops forming new ovaries, reducing the overall yield.

How to do it right: Pick fruits regularly, at the stage of technical ripeness (see chapter 9). Focus on the gloss of the skin and its bright, saturated color. Even if the fruit has reached its size but has not yet gained color — give it time, but do not miss the moment when it begins to fade (Kemble, 2022).

Mistake 9: Planting on heavy, acidic soil

What the mistake is: Growing eggplant on clayey, heavy, poorly drained, acidic soils without prior improvement.

Consequences: The roots of eggplant in heavy, waterlogged soil suffocate from lack of oxygen, are subject to rot. On acidic soils, nutrients (phosphorus, calcium, magnesium) become unavailable to the plant (Autko et al., 2012; Swiader, 1992). Plants become stunted, often suffer from root rots, yield is minimal.

How to do it right: Eggplant needs light, fertile, well-drained soils with a neutral reaction (pH 6.0–6.5) (Kemble, 2022; Autko et al., 2012). Before planting, add humus, compost, sand (to improve structure), and liming acidic soils.

Mistake 10: Planting in shade

What the mistake is: Planting eggplants in partial shade or in areas where the sun is only present half the day.

Consequences: Eggplant is a light-loving crop. With a lack of light, stems stretch, become thin, leaves become smaller, flowering is weak, fruits set poorly and are small (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984). Plants become more susceptible to diseases.

How to do it right: Plant eggplants only in the sunniest area. The day length should be at least 10–12 hours (Karataev and Sovetkina, 1984).