Planting and laying out a orchard

Site Selection: Where Cherry Trees Feel at Home

Cherry is a demanding but rewarding crop. To ensure your trees reward you with abundant harvests for many years, consider several key factors when choosing a site.

Topography and Air Drainage

Sweet and sour cherries prefer elevated, well‑lit locations (Mikheev, 2004). Why is this important? Cold air is heavier than warm air and, like water, flows into low‑lying areas, creating “frost pockets.” If your plot is in a hollow or at the foot of a slope, the risk of spring frost damage to blossoms increases sharply (Webster, 1996). The ideal site is a south‑, southwest‑, or west‑facing slope with a gradient of 4–8°, where air circulates freely and does not stagnate (Quero‑García et al., 2017; Martin, 2019). In central regions of Russia, areas near fences and buildings are particularly favourable—they create a warmer microclimate and accumulate more snow to protect roots in winter (Mikheev, 2004).

Light – The Basis of Life

Cherry is a light‑loving crop. For full growth and abundant fruiting, the tree needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day (Martin, 2019). In the shade of tall trees, buildings, or fences, cherry trees will stretch, set fewer flower buds, and produce small, sour fruit. If your plot is limited, try to place cherries on the south side of structures.

Soil: Roots Breathe and Feed

Cherries prefer light, well‑drained loamy or sandy‑loam soils with a pH of 6.0–6.8 (near neutral) (Long et al., 2021; Mikheev, 2004). What does this mean for the grower?

• Drainage – a critical factor. Cherry roots are extremely sensitive to waterlogging. In waterlogged soil, roots suffocate from lack of oxygen, and the tree may die within 1–2 years after planting (Mikheev, 2004). The groundwater table must be no higher than 1.5–2 m from the surface (Potapov et al., 2000). On heavy clay soils with poor drainage, cherries suffer from root rots (Phytophthora) and bacterial canker (Webster, 1996).
• Acidity. In acidic soils (pH below 5.5), the solubility of aluminium and manganese increases to toxic levels, inhibiting root growth (Mandal et al., 2021). If the soil is acidic, it must be limed well in advance—apply lime or dolomite flour in autumn during digging. Application rates depend on acidity: on heavy loams with pH 4.5–5, apply 700–900 g/m²; on light soils, 300–400 g/m² (Mikheev, 2004).

How to Assess the Soil on Your Plot?

• Check drainage. Dig a hole 30–40 cm deep and fill it with water. If the water does not drain within 4–6 hours, drainage is needed, or plant on mounds.
• Determine soil type. Roll a moist handful of soil into a sausage. If the sausage bends easily into a ring, it is clay (heavy soil). If it crumbles, it is sand or sandy loam. The ideal soil is when the sausage forms but cracks when bent—this is loam.
• Measure pH. Use litmus paper or a portable pH meter. If pH is below 5.5, autumn preparation with liming is required (Westwood, 1993).

Wind Protection

Constant strong winds dry out the soil, damage flowers, reduce pollinator activity, and can break young branches (Long et al., 2021). If the site is open, provide protection—a living hedge of shrubs (e.g., acacia or hazel) on the windward side or install a picket fence that will shade the trees. Windbreaks should not excessively shade the cherry orchard—the distance from protective plantings to cherry rows should be at least 10–14 m (Potapov et al., 2000).

Planting Layouts and Tree Spacings

The distance between trees determines how much light, water, and nutrients each plant receives. Overcrowding leads to competition, shading, and reduced yields. Too wide a spacing wastes land area.

General rule: the more vigorous the variety and rootstock, the greater the spacing (Quero‑García et al., 2017).

Typical spacings for sour and sweet cherries:

Data compiled from: (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000; Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Why are these spacings important? In the early years, the root system spreads within about 1.5–2 m of the trunk. If canopies of neighbouring trees close too early, they compete for light—lower branches become bare, fruit size decreases, and colouration worsens (Westwood, 1993). In addition, dense plantings are poorly ventilated, promoting fungal diseases (coccomycosis, moniliosis). Conversely, if cherries are planted too far apart, land is used inefficiently, and you lose potential yield per unit area.

Staggered planting (checkerboard pattern). If planting multiple rows, place trees not directly opposite each other but offset (checkerboard). This ensures more uniform illumination and improves light access to each tree (Tarasov, 1981).

Self‑fertility and Pollinators

Many novice gardeners make the mistake of planting a single tree and then wondering why the yield is poor. The reason often lies in pollination characteristics.

Two groups of cherries regarding pollination:

1. Self‑fertile cultivars – can set fruit from their own pollen. They do not need a pollinator neighbour to produce a crop. However, even self‑fertile cultivars benefit from cross‑pollination, with higher yields and larger fruit (Choudhary, 2003). Examples of self‑fertile sour cherry cultivars: ‘Lyubskaya’, ‘Vladimirskaya’, ‘Molodyozhnaya’, ‘Shokoladnitsa’, ‘Griot Moskovsky’.

2. Self‑sterile cultivars – require cross‑pollination with another cultivar flowering at the same time. Most old sour cherry cultivars and virtually all sweet cherry cultivars (except ‘Stella’, ‘Lapins’, ‘Sweetheart’) belong to this group (Buckingham, 2010; Mandal et al., 2021).

What to do if you have a self‑sterile cultivar?

• Plant nearby (within 15–25 m) at least two pollinator cultivars that bloom simultaneously. For sweet cherries, planting at least two compatible cultivars is mandatory (Long et al., 2021).
• For ‘Vladimirskaya’, good pollinators are ‘Lyubskaya’ and ‘Griot Moskovsky’; for ‘Shubinka’ – ‘Vladimirskaya’ and ‘Korostynskaya’.
• For sweet cherry ‘Bing’, suitable pollinators are ‘Van’, ‘Stella’, ‘Lapins’; for ‘Regina’ – ‘Stella’ and ‘Lapins’ (Buckingham, 2010).

Important: if there are already cherries in neighbouring gardens, your tree may receive pollen from them. But relying on that is risky—it is better to have your own pollinators.

How to select pollinators by flowering time?

Cherry cultivars are classified into flowering groups (early, mid‑early, mid‑late, late). For successful pollination, the flowering periods of the main cultivar and the pollinator must overlap by at least 2–3 days (Long et al., 2021). When purchasing seedlings, ask the seller for the flowering times. Appendix 1 to this article lists the flowering times of major sour and sweet cherry cultivars for different regions.

“Family tree” as a solution for small plots. If the plot allows only one tree, there is a solution – buy a “family tree” (2–4 different cultivars grafted onto one tree) (Buckingham, 2010). Such a tree pollinates itself and provides fruit of different ripening periods.

Brief conclusions from the chapter “Orchard Planning”:

1. The site should be sunny, elevated, with good air circulation and no stagnation of cold air in spring.

2. Soil – light, drained, pH 6.0–6.8. Waterlogging is unacceptable.

3. Spacings depend on vigour of cultivar and rootstock: from 2 to 4 m between trees.

4. Self‑fertility is an important characteristic; for self‑sterile cultivars, planting pollinators (another cultivar blooming at the same time) is mandatory.

5. Start planning 6–12 months before planting: conduct soil analysis, correct pH, improve drainage, plan irrigation and access paths for orchard maintenance (Martin, 2019).

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Sapling Age: One‑Year or Two‑Year?

Nurseries offer saplings of different ages. Which one to choose?

One‑year‑old saplings – plants grown from a bud (budding) during one growing season. Their height for sour cherry is 80–150 cm, for sweet cherry 120–150 cm, trunk diameter 1–1.5 cm (Mikheev, 2004). They have a well‑developed root system (at least 20 cm long) and a single straight stem – a “whip”.

Two‑year‑old saplings – one‑year‑olds grown for another year. They have a developed crown of 3–5 side branches, height up to 1.5–2 m, trunk diameter 1.5–2.5 cm.

What is better for the hobby orchard?

In most cases, experienced gardeners recommend one‑year‑old saplings. Why?

• Better survival rate. A young plant with a compact root system tolerates transplanting more easily, adapts faster, and begins to grow more quickly. Two‑year‑olds have more damaged roots during digging, and survival is lower (Mikheev, 2004).
• Flexibility in crown shaping. A one‑year‑old is a “clean slate”. You shape the crown from scratch, setting the correct structure. A two‑year‑old already has branches that may not grow in the desired direction—you have to correct or remove them, which wounds the plant.
• Less risk. Two‑year‑olds on dwarfing (clonal) rootstocks are heavily developed; their roots suffer more during digging. Therefore, intensive orchards prefer to plant one‑year‑olds (Potapov et al., 2000).

Exception: for northern regions with harsh winters, two‑year‑olds are sometimes recommended – they accumulate more nutrients and are more winter‑hardy (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). But overall, a one‑year‑old sapling is the optimal choice for amateurs.

Rootstocks: The Foundation That Determines Everything

Most cherry cultivars are propagated by grafting onto special rootstocks. The rootstock provides the root system onto which the desired scion is grafted. Rootstock selection determines:

• Vigour and final tree size (from 2–3 m to 6–8 m and above);
• Precocity (on some rootstocks the tree begins to bear fruit in 2–3 years, on others in 5–7 years);
• Winter hardiness of roots and frost resistance;
• Soil and irrigation requirements;
• Orchard longevity.

Major rootstocks for sour and sweet cherries:

Data compiled from: (Krivko, 2014; Long et al., 2021; Mandal et al., 2021; Mikheev, 2004).

Which rootstock to choose for your orchard?

Important caveat! Dwarfing clonal rootstocks (Gisela, Krymsk) have shallow root systems. They do not tolerate drought and require regular irrigation. In regions with snowless frosty winters, the roots of such trees may freeze (Long et al., 2021). Therefore, they are not recommended for northern areas – there, use seedlings of common cherry or mahaleb.

Bare‑Root vs. Containerised (Open‑Root and Closed‑Root Systems)

Nurseries sell saplings with bare roots (open‑root system – ORS) or with closed roots (containerised, in bags or pots – CRS). What is the difference?

Why is CRS better for survival? The roots of such a sapling are not injured during transplanting – they are moved together with the soil ball in which they have already adapted. This is especially important for young trees, as damage to absorbing roots is the main cause of poor establishment (Krivko, 2014). CRS saplings can be planted even in midsummer, provided regular watering is ensured (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

What to do if you bought an ORS sapling?

• If you cannot plant immediately, heel it in: dig a trench, lay the saplings obliquely (at 30–45°), cover the roots with moist soil, water abundantly. This keeps roots alive until planting (Mikheev, 2004).
• If roots dried out before planting, soak them in water for 6–12 hours (no more than a day) to restore turgor (Martin, 2019).

Signs of a Quality Sapling: 10 Rules for Selection

How to choose a healthy, productive sapling? Here is a checklist to help you avoid mistakes (based on recommendations from Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019; Long et al., 2021):

1. Cultivar and rootstock designation. The sapling must have a label stating cultivar, rootstock, age, and category (standard). Do not buy “nameless” saplings at roadside markets – you risk getting something unknown.

2. Root system condition (for ORS):

• Length of main roots – at least 20–25 cm for one‑year‑olds, 25–30 cm for two‑year‑olds.
• Roots should be moist, pliable, with no signs of drying, mould, or rot.
• In a healthy sapling, the root system is proportional to the top – if roots are too short and there are many branches, the tree will suffer from nutrient shortage (Martin, 2019).
• Presence of fibrous absorbing roots (fine white or light‑coloured rootlets) – a good sign.
• Not allowed – galls on roots (crown gall caused by bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens) (Webster, 1996).

3. Trunk quality:

• For sour cherry: trunk diameter (at 5–10 cm above the root collar) – 1–1.2 cm for a one‑year‑old, 1.5–2.5 cm for a two‑year‑old (Mikheev, 2004).
• For sweet cherry: 1.2–1.5 cm for a one‑year‑old.
• Trunk should be straight, without cracks, sunburn, mechanical damage, swellings, or signs of disease (Westwood, 1993).

4. Root collar – the transition zone between trunk and roots. It should be clearly marked, without swellings or damage. The root collar is the most important landmark when planting (see Chapter 5).

5. Above‑ground part:

• For a one‑year‑old: well‑developed terminal bud (leader), undamaged. Presence of 2–3 lateral shoots is acceptable.
• For a two‑year‑old: 3–5 well‑developed lateral branches evenly spaced around the trunk, with branch angles of 45–60° (not acute!) (Martin, 2019).
• Branch length – at least 40–50 cm.
• Buds must be alive, plump, without signs of drying or blackening (the latter indicates frost damage).

6. Bark condition. On the trunk and branches, there should be no wrinkles, peeling, spots, cracks with gum exudation (for stone fruits this indicates bacterial canker). Bark colour should be typical for the cultivar (e.g., for sweet cherry – dark grey, for sour cherry – dark brown).

7. No suckers. If there are shoots below the graft union – this is undesirable (poor compatibility or rootstock suckering). Such shoots should be removed at planting, but it is better to choose a sapling without them.

8. Graft union. In a grafted sapling, a swelling (thickening) at the graft site is clearly visible. It should be clean, without cracks or dark necrotic areas. Above the graft – scion, below – rootstock.

9. Cultivar zoning. Be sure to check whether the chosen cultivar is recommended for your region. Some sour cherry cultivars (e.g., ‘Shokoladnitsa’, ‘Molodyozhnaya’) overwinter well in the middle belt but cannot tolerate southern heat. For sweet cherries this is especially important – most cultivars are heat‑loving and only suitable for the south (Buckingham, 2010).

10. Origin. Buy saplings only from reputable nurseries that have licences and certificates for planting material. Avoid spontaneous markets – there is a high risk of buying diseased, mislabelled, or non‑zoned plants.

Quick checklist when buying a sapling:

• [ ] Cultivar and rootstock specified
• [ ] Roots moist, pliable, at least 20 cm
• [ ] Trunk straight, undamaged, diameter 1–1.5 cm
• [ ] Buds alive, not dried
• [ ] Root collar clearly marked
• [ ] No shoots below the graft
• [ ] Suitable for your climatic zone

In the next chapter we will discuss planting times – when and how best to plant cherries depending on climatic zone and sapling type.

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General Principle: Time Depends on Sapling Type and Climate

The key rule: saplings with open‑root systems (ORS) should be planted only when dormant – when the tree is “asleep” and not expending energy on growth. Saplings with closed‑root systems (CRS) are less demanding, but they also have limitations (Martin, 2019).

Why is this important? Transplanting inevitably damages roots. If at that time the tree is already actively growing (buds swelling, leaves opening), it experiences severe stress: roots cannot supply moisture and nutrients to the rapidly growing top. As a result, the sapling may die or lag severely in development (Long et al., 2021).

Spring Planting: The Classic Choice for Most Regions

Optimal timing: as soon as the soil thaws and dries slightly, but before bud break. In the middle belt of Russia – typically late April to the first decade of May (Mikheev, 2004). In Siberia and the Urals – second half of May. In the south – late March to April.

Why is spring a good choice?

• Over summer, the sapling manages to root, grow new roots, and strengthen before winter.
• The risk of winter root freezing is minimal – the tree has a whole growing season to adapt.
• No worries about winter damage typical of autumn planting (frost injury, smothering) (Webster, 1996).

Disadvantages of spring planting:

• The window is very short. If you are even a week late, the tree may already be growing, and survival drops sharply (Potapov et al., 2000).
• In spring it is harder to find quality planting material – many nurseries sell saplings in autumn, and the spring assortment is poorer (Martin, 2019).
• In spring the soil is often still too wet and cold – planting in “mud” can lead to root rot (Long et al., 2021).

Spring planting is recommended:

• In all regions with harsh, low‑snow winters (Siberia, Urals, north‑east of European Russia) – here autumn planting is too risky (Mikheev, 2004; Tarasov, 1981).
• If you acquired ORS saplings in late autumn – heel them in until spring rather than risk autumn planting.

What if you missed the spring window? If buds have already opened, an ORS sapling can no longer be planted. Better to keep it heeled in or potted (CRS) and transplant to a permanent site the following spring. For CRS saplings, planting in May–June is acceptable, but with mandatory shading and abundant watering (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Autumn Planting: For Southern and Central Regions

Optimal timing: 20–30 days before soil freezing. In the middle belt – late September to the first half of October. In the south – October to the first decade of November. In southern areas with mild winters, planting can be done in November if the ground is not frozen (Mikheev, 2004).

Why is autumn planting advantageous?

• Roots of an autumn‑planted tree have time to establish and grip the soil before cold weather – this ensures a good start in spring (Mikheev, 2004). Root regeneration in autumn is more active than shoot growth, so the tree uses energy for rooting (Potapov et al., 2000).
• Autumn offers a rich selection of saplings – you can choose the best specimens rather than make do with leftovers in spring (Martin, 2019).
• Autumn planting lightens the spring workload – you have more time and energy for proper pit preparation and planting.

Risks of autumn planting:

• If planted too late, the sapling may not root before frost – roots can freeze, and the top can dry out from winter winds (loss of moisture through bark without root uptake). This is called “winter desiccation” (Mikheev, 2004; Long et al., 2021).
• In low‑snow frosty winters, roots of saplings that have not established may be damaged – especially on dwarfing rootstocks with shallow root systems (Webster, 1996).
• Autumn saplings are more susceptible to damage by mice and hares – they gnaw the bark at the base of the trunk (Potapov et al., 2000).

Autumn planting is recommended:

• In southern regions with mild winters and stable snow cover – here the risk of freezing is minimal (Mikheev, 2004; Tarasov, 1981).
• In central areas of European Russia in years with a favourable winter forecast – provided planting is done within the optimal window.
• For winter‑hardy sour cherry cultivars (e.g., ‘Vladimirskaya’, ‘Shubinka’, ‘Molodyozhnaya’) – they tolerate autumn planting better than sweet cherry or less hardy cultivars (Mikheev, 2004).

Sweet cherry – a special case. Sweet cherry is less winter‑hardy than sour cherry. In the middle belt it is more often planted in spring so that the tree can strengthen over summer. In southern regions, autumn planting is acceptable (Mikheev, 2004). On dwarfing rootstocks (Colt, Gisela), autumn planting in the middle belt is also risky due to shallow roots.

Climatic Zone Specifics: A Table for Gardeners

To make it easier for you, we have compiled recommendations for major climatic zones of Russia and other temperate‑climate countries.

Data compiled from: (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000; Tarasov, 1981; Webster, 1996; Martin, 2019; Long et al., 2021).

What if You Bought a Sapling but the Planting Window Has Passed?

Situation: you bought an ORS sapling in late autumn, but the weather has turned bad and the ground is freezing. Planting late means the sapling will not root and will die. What to do?

Heeling‑in (proper storage until spring). This is a proven method to keep the sapling alive until spring planting (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019).

1. Dig a trench 30–35 cm deep and about 40 cm wide, oriented west‑east.

2. Make the south wall of the trench sloping (at 30–45°).

3. Lay the saplings in the trench obliquely, with tops (crowns) facing south. This protects trunks from sunburn in winter.

4. Cover roots and lower trunk (up to the graft union) with soil, pack firmly to eliminate air gaps.

5. Water abundantly (even if soil is moist – water settles and removes air voids).

6. Cover with spruce branches – protects against mice and hares.

7. In spring, as soon as the soil thaws, dig out the saplings and plant in their permanent place (before bud break).

Alternative – storage in a cellar or refrigerator. Wrap roots in a moist cloth, place in a plastic bag (not airtight!) and keep at 0…+2 °C until spring. But heeling‑in is more reliable – the sapling experiences natural temperature and moisture conditions (Mikheev, 2004).

How to Know the Soil Is Ready for Planting?

• For spring planting: soil has thawed to a depth of 20–25 cm, when squeezed in a fist it does not stick strongly to hands and does not crumble to dust (optimal moisture 50–80% of field capacity). If soil is too wet – wait 2–3 days until it dries slightly, so that planting does not create muddy “paste” that seals pores (Martin, 2019).
• For autumn planting: soil temperature at 10–15 cm depth has not dropped below +4…+5 °C, and there are at least 3–4 weeks before sustained frosts (below -3 °C). During this period, roots can grow new absorbing rootlets even at low positive temperatures (Long et al., 2021).

Brief Conclusions from the Chapter “Planting Times”

1. The most important rule – plant only when the tree is dormant (before bud break or after leaf fall). For ORS this is mandatory; for CRS it is desirable but less critical.

2. Spring planting – a reliable choice for most regions, especially with harsh winters. The window is short – do not be late.

3. Autumn planting – good for southern and central regions, but requires precise timing (20–30 days before frost).

4. For sweet cherry in the middle belt, spring planting is preferred; for sour cherry both seasons are acceptable.

5. If you are late with planting – do not risk; heel the sapling in until spring.

6. Pay close attention to the weather forecast and soil condition – do not plant in frozen, waterlogged, or bone‑dry soil.

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Planting Hole Dimensions: Don't Skimp, but Don't Overdo

Optimal dimensions for sour and sweet cherries:

Data compiled from: (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000; Tarasov, 1981).

Why these dimensions? The bulk of active absorbing roots of cherry lies in the soil layer down to 50–60 cm (Long et al., 2021). A hole of this size allows:

• Roots to spread freely in the early years – without bending or twisting, which slows growth.
• Creating a “reserve” of fertile, loose soil that roots will gradually colonise. In the first 2–3 years, the root system expands to about 1–1.5 m in diameter, and an 80 cm hole is a starting “buffer” that feeds the tree until roots grow beyond it (Martin, 2019).
• Ensuring good aeration – roots need oxygen; in dense, uncompacted soil they suffocate (especially in clayey ground) (Webster, 1996).

If you have poor, highly compacted, or depleted soil – increase the hole diameter to 1–1.2 m (or even more if space allows). This is the so‑called “long‑term” or “multi‑year” method, used in poor soils to give the plant more fertile space from the start (Martin, 2019). But remember: the hole should not be deeper than 60–70 cm – at great depth, soil is poorer, colder, and less aerated; roots do not go there readily.

Digging Technique: When and How to Prepare the Hole

The best time to prepare the hole is 1–3 months before planting, and even better 6–12 months ahead (for poor soils) (Martin, 2019). Why so early?

• The soil in the hole must settle and compact naturally. If you plant immediately after digging, after some time the soil will settle, and the root collar may become buried – one of the most common and fatal mistakes (more on this in the next chapter).
• Applied fertilisers need time to dissolve and mix with the soil so they do not burn roots (Westwood, 1993).
• During this time the soil “ripens” – restoring capillary structure that ensures moisture supply to roots (Potapov et al., 2000).

Step‑by‑step hole‑digging technique:

1. Remove the top fertile soil layer (usually 15–25 cm, darker and looser) and set it aside separately. This is the most valuable material – we will use it to fill the hole.

2. The lower, infertile layer (lighter, denser, with clods of clay or sand) set aside separately. It can be used to make a berm around the hole or simply spread around the plot (it is not useful for backfilling) (Mikheev, 2004; Tarasov, 1981).

3. The bottom of the hole (especially in clay soil) must be loosened to a depth of 10–15 cm with a fork or spade. This breaks the “pan” – a compacted layer that forms after digging and hinders root penetration and excess water drainage (Martin, 2019).

4. The walls of the hole should also be slightly loosened (with a fork or cultivator) – this improves root contact with the “native” soil outside the hole and makes it easier for roots to grow into the surrounding ground (Long et al., 2021).

5. If you dug the hole well in advance, before planting simply loosen the bottom and walls slightly – they may have compacted over winter/spring.

Important! On heavy clay soils with poor drainage, do not dig a hole like a “glass” with smooth compacted walls (especially if an auger was used). Smooth walls will turn into a “pot” – water will stagnate, roots cannot escape the hole, and the tree will die from root rot (Potapov et al., 2000; Mikheev, 2004). On such soils:

• Dig the hole wider and shallower (diameter up to 1–1.2 m, depth 40–50 cm) – roots will develop horizontally where there is more oxygen.
• Make the walls rough with a fork or rake.
• Place a drainage layer (gravel, broken brick, expanded clay, 10–15 cm thick) at the bottom to ensure excess water drainage.

Filling the Hole: The Key Is Not to Overfeed!

Fertiliser and organic matter should be added to the hole, but it is easy to make mistakes. Excessive amounts of fertiliser, especially mineral, can burn young roots and kill the sapling (Westwood, 1993; Martin, 2019). Therefore, filling should be moderate and well mixed with soil.

Recipe for the ideal filling mixture (per planting hole):

Dosages compiled from: (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000; Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012; Krivko, 2014).

Important precautions:

1. Never apply fresh manure, poultry manure, or any uncomposted organic fertiliser to the hole. Decomposition releases ammonia and heat, burning roots. Only well‑rotted manure (aged at least 1–2 years) or well‑composted organic matter (Westwood, 1993).

2. Nitrogen fertilisers (ammonium nitrate, urea) should not be added to the planting hole. Nitrogen stimulates shoot growth, and a tree weakened by transplanting should first grow roots, not top growth. Moreover, nitrogen can burn roots. Nitrogen fertilisation should be given only from the second year after planting (Krivko, 2014; Potapov et al., 2000).

3. Lime, ash (alkaline materials) and mineral fertilisers (especially superphosphate) should not be mixed together before planting – they may react chemically (phosphorus fixation). Apply them in layers or mix thoroughly only immediately before backfilling (Mikheev, 2004).

4. All fertilisers must be thoroughly mixed with the soil to avoid localised concentrations. Roots should “find” nutrients gradually, not be placed into a “chemical soup” (Martin, 2019).

Step‑by‑step filling of the hole:

1. On the bottom, on the loosened surface, pour 1–2 buckets of the mixture (topsoil + humus + superphosphate + ash) and mix well right in the hole (with a fork).

2. Form a mound (cone) from this mixture in the centre of the hole. On this mound you will place the sapling so that its roots hang naturally down the slopes – this helps avoid roots bending upward and ensures better soil contact (Mikheev, 2004).

3. Place the remaining mixture beside the hole (it will be used to cover roots during planting). Just before planting, mix it again to make it homogeneous and loose.

4. Water the hole (1–2 buckets) 2–3 days before planting to allow the soil to settle and compact. If you plant a few days later, check moisture – it should be moderate (not wet, but not dry) (Martin, 2019).

Important nuance: if you fill the hole in autumn (and plant in spring), the mixture should “rest” for 2–3 months. For this, the hole is filled with the prepared mixture and left until spring. Over winter, fertilisers distribute evenly, and the soil settles naturally (Tarasov, 1981).

Typical Mistakes When Preparing the Hole

Errors summarised from: (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019; Long et al., 2021; Westwood, 1993).

Special Cases: High Water Table and Heavy Soils

If on your plot the groundwater level is closer than 1.5–2 m, or the soil is very heavy clay, the standard hole will not work. Cherry does not tolerate “wet feet” – roots suffocate and rot (Mikheev, 2004). The solution is planting on mounds (raised beds).

Technique for planting on a mound (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000):

1. Preliminarily drain the site (dig ditches to remove excess water).

2. Build an earthen mound 40–50 cm high and 1.3–1.5 m wide at the base.

3. Drive a stake into the centre of the mound.

4. Apply fertilisers (humus, superphosphate, ash) in the same doses as for a standard hole and mix thoroughly with the mound soil.

5. On the top of the mound, make a depression, spread out the roots, and plant the tree.

6. As the tree grows, “feed” the root system with earth – annually increase the mound size until at full bearing it reaches 3–4 m in width.

7. Make a watering basin on the mound, but not deep, so that water does not stagnate near the trunk.

Why this works? Roots are located in an elevated, well‑aerated zone; excess water drains into the alleys. Even in rainy periods, the root collar remains dry. This method is often used in the Leningrad region, the Non‑Chernozem zone, and other areas with waterlogged soils (Potapov et al., 2000).

Brief Conclusions from the Chapter “Preparing the Planting Hole”

1. Hole size for sour cherry – 60–80 cm diameter, 50–60 cm deep. For sweet cherry and on poor soils – wider (up to 1 m).

2. Advance preparation (1–3 months) – key to success: soil settles, fertilisers distribute.

3. Top fertile layer – the basis for filling; lower layer is not used for planting.

4. For filling add humus (10–15 kg), superphosphate (150–200 g), potassium sulphate (50–60 g), wood ash (0.5 kg). Nitrogen fertilisers and fresh manure – prohibited.

5. Mandatory loosening of bottom and walls – especially on clay soils, where drainage is vital.

6. On waterlogged sites – only planting on mounds (raised beds).

7. Hole walls must be rough so roots can freely grow into surrounding soil and water does not stagnate.

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Root Preparation: How to “Wake Up” the Roots

Before placing the sapling in the hole, prepare its root system. This simple procedure significantly improves survival.

Root inspection and pruning

Carefully examine the sapling’s roots (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019):

• Remove all damaged, dried, broken, rotten, or skinned roots – cut them back to healthy tissue with secateurs (the cut should be light, without brown spots).
• Trim overly long roots that do not fit in the planting hole. Roots should not bend upward or coil – this slows growth and can lead to a “root pot” where roots cannot develop properly (Westwood, 1993).
• Refresh cuts on roots even on healthy roots that were cut during digging. A fresh cut heals faster, forming callus and new absorbing rootlets (Krivko, 2014).

Why does this work? Pruning stimulates the formation of new active absorbing roots. Removing damaged roots prevents the development of rots and infections that can enter through wounds (Webster, 1996).

Soaking roots: when needed

• If roots dried out during transport or storage – soak the sapling in water for 6–12 hours (no more than 24 hours!). Immerse only roots, not the trunk, to prevent water entering the graft union (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019). Water should be clean, at room temperature.
• Do not soak CRS saplings – the root ball may become waterlogged and disintegrate, negating all the advantages of a closed‑root system.

Clay slurry (for ORS)

Before planting, it is useful to dip roots in a clay slurry (a thick paste of clay, water, and optionally cow manure). This keeps roots moist, protects them from drying during planting, and improves soil contact (Mikheev, 2004; Krivko, 2014).

Slurry recipe:

• Clay + water to the consistency of thick sour cream (you can add 1 part cow manure to 5 parts clay).
• Dip roots in the slurry and let dry slightly (not completely!) – this forms a protective “coat” on the roots.

Treatment with root‑stimulating substances (optional)

Some gardeners use solutions of growth stimulants (e.g., “Kornevin”) for roots before planting. This can accelerate the formation of new absorbing rootlets, especially in weakened or older saplings. But for a healthy one‑year‑old it is not necessary (Long et al., 2021).

Planting Depth and Root Collar Position: The Most Important Point

This is critically important! The planting depth error is one of the most common and most destructive (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019; Long et al., 2021).

Root collar – the transition zone between trunk and roots. In grafted saplings, it lies below the graft union (usually 3–5 cm). The root collar is the anatomical boundary between root system and trunk.

Rule No. 1: The root collar must be 3–5 cm above the soil surface (after settling). It must not be buried – this leads to bark rotting and tree death. It must not be left too high – roots may dry out and freeze (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000).

Why is burying the root collar so dangerous?

1. Bark smothering. When buried, the bark at the transition zone is constantly in a moist environment without air access. This causes cracking, rotting, and death of the cambium. The tree may die within 1–2 years.

2. Scion rooting. If the graft union (which is above the root collar) is buried, the scion may take root. This means the tree “leaves” the intended rootstock and becomes vigorous, losing all advantages of a dwarfing rootstock – precocity, compactness, drought tolerance (Potapov et al., 2000; Krivko, 2014).

3. Nutritional disruption. When buried, the root system is in a zone with oxygen deficiency, suppressing growth and development (Westwood, 1993).

How to determine the root collar level?

• In an ORS sapling, the root collar is clearly visible – the point where the trunk (lighter, smoother bark) transitions to roots (darker, rougher bark with side roots).
• In CRS saplings, the root collar is at the surface level of the root ball (visible if you gently scrape away the top layer of substrate).

How to set the correct planting level? (Mikheev, 2004; Tarasov, 1981)

1. Use a planting board or batten. Lay a board (batten) across the hole – it will show the true soil level. Use it to determine where the root collar should be.

2. Make a mound of fertile mixture on the bottom of the hole.

3. Place the sapling on the mound, spreading the roots over the slopes.

4. The root collar should be 5–10 cm above the edges of the hole (accounting for subsequent soil settling). On dense, heavy soils, settling is greater – up to 5–10 cm; on light soils – less (3–5 cm) (Potapov et al., 2000).

5. Cover the roots with the prepared mixture, periodically shaking the sapling so that soil fills all voids between roots.

6. Tamp the soil with your feet (placing toes toward the trunk) – first around the trunk, then over the whole hole area (Mikheev, 2004).

7. Check the level – after tamping, the root collar should be 3–5 cm above the soil surface.

8. Make a watering basin – an earthen rim 10–15 cm high around the perimeter of the hole. This retains water during irrigation (Mikheev, 2004; Tarasov, 1981).

For saplings on dwarfing (clonal) rootstocks: the graft union should be 5–10 cm above the soil surface to prevent scion rooting and loss of dwarfing (Potapov et al., 2000; Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Staking: Wind Protection and Proper Training

A young tree with an undeveloped root system is very unstable to wind. Even moderate wind can rock the sapling, damage young absorbing roots, and slow establishment. Therefore, staking is mandatory (Mikheev, 2004; Long et al., 2021).

Stake installation:

• The stake must be installed before planting (to avoid damaging roots).
• Stake height – 110–120 cm above ground (total length 130–150 cm, with 20–30 cm driven into the ground).
• Stake thickness – 4–6 cm (from strong wood like oak or larch, or a metal stake).
• Number of stakes: for vigorous rootstocks – one; for dwarfing (Gisela, Colt) – definitely one, and in windy regions possibly two (one on each side of the trunk) (Long et al., 2021).

Tying technique:

1. Only with a “figure‑eight”! Pass the twine or special tape between the stake and trunk, crossing it in a figure‑eight. This does not constrict the trunk but holds it firmly (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019).

2. Material: soft twine, special garden tapes, strips of fabric. Do not use wire, fishing line, or other rigid materials – they cut into the bark and can pinch the vessels (Westwood, 1993).

3. Do not overtighten! A finger should pass freely between the trunk and the tie. The tie should not grow into the trunk.

4. Check and loosen the tie every year – the trunk thickens, and the tie may become too tight.

On dwarfing rootstocks, staking is not temporary but a permanent support. Trees on these rootstocks have weak root systems and may fall over under the weight of the crop. They should be tied to stakes or trellises throughout their life (Long et al., 2021; Potapov et al., 2000).

First Watering: “Sealing” the Soil Around Roots

Water immediately after planting, regardless of soil moisture! (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019).

Why is this important?

• Water “settles” the soil, filling all voids and ensuring close contact between roots and soil. Without this, roots may end up in “air pockets” and fail to receive moisture.
• Water “draws” roots toward moist soil areas, stimulating their growth.

Watering amount: 2–3 buckets (20–30 L) per tree (Mikheev, 2004; Tarasov, 1981). On light sandy soils – up to 3–4 buckets; on heavy clay – 2 buckets, but slowly to allow absorption.

Watering technique:

1. Pour water into the watering basin (around the trunk), trying not to wash away soil right at the trunk.

2. Water slowly so that water soaks in, not runs off.

3. If soil settles after watering, add a little more soil (to the level where the root collar is 3–5 cm above the surface).

4. After watering, be sure to mulch the soil (see below).

Subsequent watering (first season):

• In dry weather – once every 7–10 days with 1–2 buckets (Long et al., 2021).
• Use not cold water, preferably sun‑warmed (Martin, 2019).
• Stop watering 2–3 weeks before the onset of autumn frosts to allow the tree to harden off (Potapov et al., 2000).

Mulching: Conserving Moisture and Nutrition

Mulch is a layer of organic material placed over the root zone after planting. It is not just decoration – it is an important agronomic practice (Martin, 2019; Mikheev, 2004).

What does mulching provide?

1. Retains moisture – reduces evaporation by 30–50%.

2. Suppresses weeds – they do not compete with the young tree for water and nutrients.

3. Protects roots from overheating in summer and from freezing in winter (Potapov et al., 2000).

4. Feeds the soil – as it decomposes, mulch enriches it with organic matter (Westwood, 1993).

Which material to use?

Data summarised from: (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019; Long et al., 2021; Potapov et al., 2000).

Recommendation for the hobby gardener: best to use humus, compost, or well‑rotted manure mixed with peat. This is the “gold standard” – it feeds, retains moisture, and improves soil structure.

How to mulch correctly?

1. Mulch layer – 5–10 cm (no more!).

2. Do not place mulch right against the trunk! Leave a free space around the trunk (10–15 cm diameter). This prevents bark smothering and root collar rot (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019). Reason: moist mulch in contact with the trunk creates a greenhouse effect, causing bark decay.

3. Spread the mulch evenly over the entire watering basin (diameter 50–70 cm).

4. Renew the mulch periodically (autumn and spring) – it gradually rots and its layer thins.

Typical Planting Mistakes (Self‑Check Checklist)

Errors compiled from: (Mikheev, 2004; Martin, 2019; Long et al., 2021; Potapov et al., 2000).

Brief Conclusions from the Chapter “Planting the Tree”

1. Prepare roots – remove damaged, trim long, soak if necessary, dip in slurry.

2. Root collar – the main reference. It must be 3–5 cm above soil level. Do not bury!

3. Set the stake before planting; tie the sapling in a figure‑eight with soft material.

4. First watering – mandatory and abundant (2–3 buckets). Water into the basin, slowly.

5. Mulch the root zone with a 5–10 cm layer, but leave free space around the trunk (10–15 cm).

6. Monitor the root collar level after watering and settling – add or remove soil if needed.

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The First Month: Closest Attention

Immediately after planting, the sapling is under stress. Its root system was severely damaged during digging, and the tree spends all its energy on root regeneration and adaptation to the new site (Westwood, 1993). During this period, your main task is to minimise stress and create the most comfortable conditions for rooting.

Second – Third Month: Maintenance and Prevention

After the sapling has established (which usually takes 4–6 weeks), you can move to less intensive but regular care. Now the main task is to lay the foundation for healthy growth and prepare the tree for winter.

Autumn and Winter Preparation: The First Hurdle

The first winter is particularly hard for a young tree. Its root system is not yet strong, and the above‑ground part – bark, wood – has not accumulated sufficient reserves of protective substances (Westwood, 1993). Your task is to help the tree survive the cold without losses.

When to Fertilise and Prune? (First 1–2 Years)

The young sapling does not need nitrogen fertilisers in the first year – they are applied only from the second year (Potapov et al., 2000; Krivko, 2014). Why?

• All necessary nutrients for 2–3 years were already added to the planting hole.
• Excess nitrogen in the first year encourages overly vigorous shoot growth that may not ripen before winter and freeze.
• The tree should channel all its energy into rooting, not growth.

When to start fertilising? From the second year, you can apply complex mineral fertilisers (without nitrogen in early summer, and potassium‑phosphorus in autumn for winter preparation). For specific doses and timing, consult local conditions and the cultivar (Long et al., 2021).

Pruning after planting – a debated topic (Mikheev, 2004; Westwood, 1993; Martin, 2019). Most sources recommend delaying formative pruning until the second year to allow the tree to establish and gain strength. However, some believe that light pruning of a one‑year‑old (by 1/3 of length) stimulates lateral branching and crown formation (Martin, 2019). If you decide to prune in the planting year:

• Do it early spring (before bud break).
• Remove only weak, damaged, or inward‑growing branches.
• Severe pruning in the first year is prohibited – it may weaken the young tree.

Best strategy for the hobby gardener: Do not prune in the planting year; let the tree establish. From the second year, begin formative pruning according to the chosen crown system (sparse‑tiered, bush‑shaped, spindle) (Mikheev, 2004; Potapov et al., 2000; Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

First‑Year Calendar: Seasonal Tasks (Brief Overview)

Brief Conclusions from the Chapter “Post‑Planting Care”

1. The first month – decisive. Water abundantly and regularly (every 3–4 days), loosen soil, remove weeds.

2. In summer switch to maintenance watering (once in 7–10 days) and watch tree health.

3. In autumn prepare the tree for winter: water‑charging irrigation, mulching, trunk protection.

4. Do not apply nitrogen fertilisers in the planting year. Start fertilising from the second year.

5. Formative pruning is best postponed to the second year to avoid weakening the young plant.

6. The main rule of the first year – let the tree establish quietly and gain strength. Protect it from stress and do not overload it!

Overall Conclusion

We have covered all stages – from site planning to the first year of the sapling’s life. Each step is important, and each requires attention. But remember: gardening is not only work but also joy. Joy in seeing a tiny sapling grow into a flowering tree, and then into a generous source of tasty, healthy fruit. Follow these recommendations, observe your trees, experiment (within reason) – and your orchard will surely reward you!

Good luck and abundant harvests!