Planting

Why Is This So Important?

Potato is a crop of temperate climates. It has a clear temperature minimum for initiating growth:

• Bud eyes begin to sprout at +5°C (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).
• Roots begin to form at +7°C (Dean, 1993).
• Optimal temperature for fast and uniform sprouting is +10…+12°C (Wohleb et al., 2020).
• At soil temperatures below +8°C, tubers may lie in the ground for 3–4 weeks without visible growth, increasing the risk of rot and disease infection (De Jong et al., 2011).

How to Measure Soil Temperature

A simple and reliable method: insert an ordinary outdoor thermometer into a pre-dug hole at a depth of 10 cm, cover it with soil, and leave it for 15–20 minutes. Ideally, the temperature should remain steady at +10…+12°C for 3–5 days.

Folk method: if the soil at the depth of a spade blade no longer sticks to the tool and crumbles into small clods — it is ready.

Regional Considerations

Since this article addresses gardeners from different regions worldwide, it's important to remember:

• In temperate climates (Northern Europe, northern US, Canada, central Russia), planting times fall in April–May, when the soil warms to the required temperature (Wohleb et al., 2020).
• In subtropics (southern US, Mediterranean, Central Asia), two planting seasons are possible: spring (February–March) for an early crop and summer (July–August) for seed potatoes, as high summer temperatures inhibit tuber formation (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

The main rule: wait until the soil has warmed up, even if the calendar says it's "already time."

What Happens If You Plant Too Early?

1. Tubers lie in cold soil for a long time without sprouting.

2. The risk of rhizoctonia (black scurf) infection increases, which develops actively at temperatures of +4…+6°C (Wohleb et al., 2020).

3. Emergence is delayed, plants are weaker, and yields decrease.

Conversely, planting in overly warm soil (above +22°C) is also undesirable — tubers may "steam" and rot, and development slows down (De Jong et al., 2011).

Temperature — the First, but Not the Only Signal

As we discussed in the first chapter, the minimum temperature for initiating growth is +5…+7°C at planting depth (10 cm), with the optimum being +10…+12°C (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003; Wohleb et al., 2020). However, even when these figures are reached, don't rush — check moisture and structure.

Moisture: The "Soil Sausage" Test

Overly wet soil is the main enemy of planting. In wet soil:

• tubers suffocate from lack of oxygen,
• the risk of rot increases,
• soil structure breaks down during tillage and planting, forming dense clods that remain unbreakable all season (De Jong et al., 2011).

A simple field test:

Take a handful of soil from a depth of 8–10 cm and squeeze it in your fist.

• If water seeps from the clump — too wet, wait 3–5 days.
• If the clump easily crumbles under light pressure — soil is optimally moist, ready to work.
• If the clump is dense, doesn't crumble, but doesn't release water — moisture is slightly above optimum, but if it dries out in 1–2 days, it will be fine.
• If the soil crumbles to dust and doesn't form a clump — soil is too dry, pre-planting irrigation is needed (especially relevant for southern arid regions) (De Jong et al., 2011; Hochmuth and Sideman, 2023).

This test works well on all soil types — from loams to sands.

Structure: Soil "Maturity"

Physical maturity occurs when the soil has warmed up and dried out sufficiently but hasn't dried out completely. In this state, it:

• is easy to till,
• doesn't stick to tools,
• crumbles into small clods rather than large slabs or dust.

Check: insert a spade to full depth and turn over a slice of soil.

• If the slice crumbles into fist-sized clumps or smaller — the soil is ready.
• If the slice breaks into large clods — it's still too wet.
• If the slice turns to dust — it's too dry, needs watering.

Why is this important?

Working overly wet soil destroys its natural structure: pores collapse, gas exchange is disrupted, roots can't develop properly, and tubers turn out misshapen and small. Restoring the structure within the same season is impossible (De Jong et al., 2011).

The "Boot" Folk Method

In central Russia and other regions with cold springs, gardeners often look at the top layer: if soil stops sticking to footwear and doesn't leave muddy footprints — it's time to dig. This is a rough but effective sign that the top layer has dried out.

Regional Nuances

• In arid zones (Central Asia, southern US, Australia), soil may already be dry by the time optimal temperatures are reached. In this case, pre-planting irrigation is carried out before planting to create a moisture reserve for tuber germination (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). Watering is done 2–3 days before planting so the water soaks in and the soil dries slightly for cultivation.
• In regions with cold, prolonged springs (northern US states, Canada, Scandinavia), ridge planting is often used: ridges warm up faster and dry better than flat ground (De Jong et al., 2011).

Quick Soil Readiness Checklist

1. Temperature at 10 cm depth is consistently above +8°C, ideally +10…+12°C.

2. Moisture: squeezed clump doesn't release water, but doesn't crumble to dust.

3. Structure: overturned slice crumbles into small and medium clods, doesn't stick to the spade.

4. Weather forecast for the next 5–7 days: no frost or prolonged rain.

When all four conditions are met, you can confidently take out seed tubers and prepare for planting. In the next chapter, we'll discuss at what depth to plant potatoes to avoid burying them too deep or drying out the future harvest.

Basic Rule

In most cases, optimal planting depth is 5 to 10 cm (from the top point of the tuber to the soil surface). In regions with dry, hot summers (southern steppes, Central Asia), depth is increased to 12–16 cm — this protects tubers from overheating (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). In northern areas with a short, cool growing season, planting is shallower — 6–8 cm — to warm up faster and produce an early crop (De Jong et al., 2011).

What Does Depth Depend On?

How to Measure Depth in Practice

Depth is measured from the top point of the tuber to the soil surface (excluding mounds or ridges). In practice, this is measured with a ruler placed next to the buried tuber. It's convenient to pre-mark the required level on a planter or spade.

Special Cases

Most Common Mistakes

1. Planting too shallow (less than 5 cm) — emergence is early, but tubers may green, dry out, and suffer from temperature fluctuations. Additionally, stolons (underground shoots on which tubers form) develop higher on shallow-planted plants, increasing the risk of tubers reaching the surface.

2. Planting too deep (more than 15 cm) — significantly delays emergence, weakens plants, and reduces yield. Particularly critical for early potatoes and small tubers (De Jong et al., 2011; Wohleb et al., 2020).

3. Incorrect depth for specific soil type — on heavy clays, shallow planting leads to "steaming" of tubers in conditions of excess moisture, while on sands, it leads to drying out.

Recommended Depth by Conditions (Summary Table)

The main principle: depth should ensure the tuber has reliable contact with warm, moist (but not waterlogged) soil while allowing sprouts to reach the surface without effort.

Why Is Spacing So Important?

Potato is a light-loving plant. Its yield directly depends on how much solar energy the leaf canopy captures (Firman and Allen, 1989). When plants are planted too densely:

• leaves close canopy prematurely, competition for light begins,
• photosynthesis of lower leaves weakens,
• tuber count and mass decrease,
• disease risk increases due to poor ventilation.

When planted too sparsely:

• plants develop excessive foliage that shades row middles,
• many tubers form, but they may be overly large (which isn't always marketable),
• field area is underutilized (De Jong et al., 2011).

Row Spacing

Optimal row spacing for amateur and commercial potato growing is 60–90 cm. The specific figure depends on:

1. The equipment you use. If using a motor-block or mini-tractor, it's better to stick to the standard 70–75 cm (track width of most machines). For hand planting, you can vary from 60 to 90 cm (Swiader, 1992).

2. Regional conditions:

• In arid regions (southern steppes, Central Asia), rows are made wider — 80–90 cm — to give each plant more moisture (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• In areas with adequate moisture (Northwest Russia, Non-Chernozem zone, Eastern Europe), 70–75 cm is used — the standard for most varieties (De Jong et al., 2011).
• Under irrigated conditions, row spacing is sometimes narrowed to 60–65 cm, compensating for reduced area with irrigation and increasing overall yield per hectare (Dean, 1993).

3. Variety and growing purpose:

• For late, tall varieties with vigorous foliage (Russet Burbank, Ranger), row spacing is wider — 80–90 cm (Wohleb et al., 2020).
• For early compact varieties (Norland, Zhukovsky early), spacing can be reduced to 60–70 cm (Pavek and Thornton, 2009).

In-Row Tuber Spacing

This parameter varies widely — from 15 to 40 cm (Swiader, 1992; Kemble, 2022). Main guidelines:

Planting Patterns for Different Conditions

1. Standard row pattern (70 × 25–30 cm)

• Most common in temperate climates.
• Provides a good balance between tuber size and total yield.
• Convenient for mechanized maintenance.

2. Dense planting (60 × 20–25 cm)

• Used for early harvest or seed potato production.
• Tubers are smaller but more uniform.
• Requires more intensive nutrition and irrigation (Dean, 1993).

3. Wide planting (90 × 35–40 cm)

• Used for late varieties in arid zones.
• Produces very large tubers but reduces total yield per unit area.
• Requires more inter-row cultivation due to vigorous foliage growth (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Mistakes in Choosing a Pattern

1. Too dense planting — tubers become smaller, risk of late blight increases due to poor air circulation (Wohleb et al., 2020).

2. Too sparse planting — tubers become excessively large, may develop hollow heart (hollowness), reducing total yield (Pavek and Thornton, 2006).

3. Uneven distribution — even with correct average density, uneven spacing reduces large tuber yield and increases the proportion of small ones (Pavek and Thornton, 2006).

Practical Recommendations

For gardeners and small farmers:

• Optimal pattern for most varieties and the central belt: 70 × 30 cm.
• For large tubers (for market, for seed), increase spacing to 70 × 35 cm.
• For early production and "new" potato harvest, you can plant at 60 × 25 cm.

Important: try to keep the distance between individual tubers in the row uniform — this ensures even light and nutrition for each plant. In practice, it's convenient to use a measuring tape or pre-tensioned string with markers.

1. Ridge Planting (on Beds)

Ridge planting is one of the most common methods in commercial and amateur potato growing, especially in regions with excessive moisture and cold springs.

2. Furrow Planting (on Flat Ground)

This is the traditional method for large areas and manual planting. Furrows are cut on flat ground, tubers are laid out and covered with soil. As plants grow, hilling is done — forming ridges around plants (De Jong et al., 2011).

3. "Under the Spade" Planting (Classic Manual Method)

This is a simplified version of furrow planting, often used by gardeners on small areas.

4. Planting Under Mulch (straw, hay, black film)

This is a relatively new but increasingly popular method among gardeners, especially in organic farming.

Comparative Table of Methods

How to Choose a Method for Your Site?

1. Assess the soil. Heavy, clayey, and wet — choose ridges. Light, sandy, quickly drying — furrows or mulch work well.

2. Consider the climate. In cold regions with short summers, warming the soil quickly is more important — ridges or furrows. In hot arid zones, mulch helps save water.

3. Evaluate your resources. If you have equipment — ridges and furrows. If only a spade and free time — "under the spade" or mulch.

The main rule: whichever method you choose, the key is to maintain optimal depth and spacing, and avoid planting in waterlogged or overly dry soil (Chapters 2 and 3).

In the next chapter, we'll discuss what to put in the hole when planting — fertilizers, stimulants, pest protection — to give tubers a starter boost.

The Main Principle: No Nitrogen in the Hole!

This is a rule worth remembering once and for all: nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea, fresh manure) should not be placed directly in the hole (Wohleb et al., 2020; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). Why?

• Nitrogen stimulates excessive foliage growth at the expense of tuber formation.
• In high concentration (at the point of contact with the tuber), nitrogen causes "burns" and rotting of seed material (Dean, 1993).
• Excess nitrogen in the tuberization zone delays tuber formation, reduces starch content, and impairs storage quality (Wohleb et al., 2020).

All nitrogen (if needed) should be applied in advance, during digging, distributed over the entire area, or used in top dressing after emergence (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). Only phosphorus, potassium, and low-nitrogen organics are placed in the hole.

1. Organics: Compost or Well-Rotted Manure

This is the foundation — what should be in every hole. Organics improve soil structure, provide roots with carbon dioxide, nourish beneficial microorganisms, and create a favorable water-air regime (De Jong et al., 2011).

What to use:

• Well-decomposed compost (2–3 years old).
• Well-rotted manure (humus).
• Vermicompost (biohumus).

How much to put:

• Per hole — a handful (200–300 g) of compost or manure (Swiader, 1992).

Important:

• Only well-rotted organics! Fresh manure in the hole causes burns and tuber rot (Dean, 1993).
• If the compost is acidic (peat-based), mix it with ash or dolomite flour.

2. Wood Ash — An Essential Element for Potatoes

Ash is a unique fertilizer for potatoes that provides several important effects:

• Source of potassium, essential for forming large, starchy tubers (Wohleb et al., 2020).
• Phosphorus in available form — stimulates root system development (De Jong et al., 2011).
• Deacidifies soil, especially important on acidic podzolic soils — potatoes don't like pH below 5.5 (Swiader, 1992).
• Calcium, magnesium, and micronutrients (boron, zinc, copper) — improve metabolism and increase disease resistance (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

How much to put:

• In the hole — 1 handful (about 40–50 g) of sifted wood ash (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• For poor sandy soils — 1.5–2 handfuls; for rich chernozems — 0.5 handfuls.

Important:

• Use only ash from burning wood, straw, or grass. Ash from coal or household waste is unsuitable — contains heavy metals (Hochmuth and Sideman, 2023).
• Ash should not be mixed with ammonium nitrate or urea — nitrogen loss occurs (Kemble, 2022). Apply them separately and at different times.
• Ash can be mixed with compost or manure.

3. Mineral Fertilizers for the Hole

If organics and ash aren't enough, or you want maximum results, add limited amounts of mineral fertilizers.

What is acceptable in the hole:

Absolutely NOT to be placed in the hole:

• Ammonium nitrate, urea, or any concentrated nitrogen fertilizers — they burn tubers and cause rot (Dean, 1993).
• Potassium chloride — chlorine is toxic to potatoes, reduces starch content. Use potassium sulfate instead (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Practical tip: instead of individual fertilizers, you can use specialized compound fertilizers for potatoes (e.g., "Potato Formula," "Kemira Potato") at the dosage specified on the package. They are already balanced in composition and safe for hole application.

4. What Else Can Be Added to the Hole

• Crushed eggshells — a source of calcium, which strengthens tuber cell walls, making them more resistant to diseases (De Jong et al., 2011).
• Onion peels — a natural antiseptic, repels wireworms and some other pests (Kemble, 2022).
• Mustard cake — suppresses soil pathogens, effective against wireworms, but dosage strictly according to instructions (Hochmuth and Sideman, 2023).
• Biopreparations ("Fitosporin," "Trichocin") — for protection against fungal diseases. Can be added to the hole or used to soak tubers before planting (Swiader, 1992).

5. How to Properly Combine Components in the Hole

Option 1: Minimal (works well on all soils)

• A handful of compost or manure + 1 handful of ash.
• Mix with soil at the bottom of the hole, place the tuber, cover with soil.

Option 2: Enhanced (for poor sandy or depleted soils)

• A handful of compost + 1 handful of ash + 5 g superphosphate (or 1 tsp) + 5 g potassium fertilizer.
• Thoroughly mix with soil in the hole so fertilizers don't contact the tuber directly (otherwise burns may occur).

Option 3: Organic (chemical-free)

• A handful of manure + 1.5 handfuls of ash + a handful of crushed eggshells.
• You can add a handful of wood sawdust (only well-rotted!) to improve soil structure.

The main rule: regardless of composition, fertilizers should be mixed with soil at the bottom of the hole and not directly touching the tuber (especially mineral fertilizers) (Wohleb et al., 2020).

Typical Mistakes in Hole Fertilization

1. Too much fertilizer — causes "overfeeding," tubers may rot or produce excessive foliage at the expense of yield (De Jong et al., 2011).

2. Fresh manure or undecomposed compost — causes burns and root rots (Swiader, 1992).

3. Fertilizers touching the tuber — especially dangerous for dry mineral fertilizers (Dean, 1993).

4. Ignoring ash — potatoes are very responsive to potassium, and ash is the most accessible and safe source (Wohleb et al., 2020).

5. Incorrect combination — mixing ash and nitrogen fertilizers in the same hole leads to nitrogen loss and inefficiency of both components (Kemble, 2022).

Quick Summary: What to Put in the Hole

Basic Rule: One Tuber – One Hole

In the vast majority of cases (for both amateur and commercial potato growing), the standard is one tuber per hole (Swiader, 1992; De Jong et al., 2011). Why?

• Each plant needs individual feeding space (light, moisture, nutrients).
• When planting two tubers in one hole, plants begin to compete with each other from the first weeks of growth (Wohleb et al., 2020).
• As a result, competition weakens both plants, and yield per unit area may be lower than with proper single planting with optimal spacing (Pavek and Thornton, 2006).

Exception: two tubers per hole is acceptable only with very small seed material (tubers weighing 20–30 g), when one tuber is insufficient for forming a strong plant (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

When Are Two Tubers Planted Per Nest?

In the history of potato growing, the so-called square-cluster planting method was popular: at 70×70 cm or 60×60 cm spacing, with two tubers per nest (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). This method was used in the south (in steppe and semi-desert zones) for better moisture utilization and reduced soil overheating through sparse planting. However, as Soviet agronomists already noted, this method has serious drawbacks:

• mutual suppression of two plants in one nest,
• soil overheating due to sparse bush placement,
• ultimately, yields were lower than with row planting with optimal density (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Today, this method is rarely used, mainly for elite seed potato production (to get more stems and, consequently, more small but uniform tubers) or on very poor soils where one plant cannot fully utilize the feeding area (De Jong et al., 2011).

Stem Load – The Main Secret

In fact, what matters is not so much the number of tubers in the hole, but the number of stems they will produce. It is known that yield directly depends on the number of stems per unit area — more stems mean more potential tubers, but each individual tuber will be smaller (Wohleb et al., 2020; Knowles and Knowles, 2006).

• One large tuber (80–100 g) produces 3–5 strong stems — optimal for obtaining large marketable tubers (Pavek and Thornton, 2006).
• Two small tubers (30–40 g each) can produce a total of 4–6 stems, comparable to one large tuber, but the plants will compete with each other if planted too closely (De Jong et al., 2011).
• If you place two large tubers (over 60 g each), there will be too many stems — plants become overcrowded, tubers become smaller, disease risk increases (Wohleb et al., 2020).

Thus, it's better to think not about the number of tubers, but about the total weight and number of eyes (buds) per planting material. The optimal load is 3–5 stems per planting site (De Jong et al., 2011).

When to Plant Two Tubers – Practical Recommendations

Alternative: Increasing Planting Density Instead of Two Tubers

If you want more stems per unit area but don't want to risk competition from two plants in one hole, there's a more effective method — reduce the spacing between tubers in the row (Pavek and Thornton, 2006).

For example, if you normally plant at 30 cm, try planting at 25 cm, keeping one tuber per hole. This gives more plants on the same area (and therefore more stems), but competition between neighboring plants will be uniform rather than localized (as with two tubers per hole). This approach gives more stable results (De Jong et al., 2011).

Planting "Two Per Nest" – When Is It Really Justified?

1. Very poor soils where one plant cannot fully utilize the feeding area. Two plants in one nest (with increased spacing between nests) help use the area more efficiently (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

2. Small seed material — when tubers are very small (less than 30 g), they are planted 2–3 per hole to get sufficient stem numbers (De Jong et al., 2011).

3. Elite seed production — to produce many small but healthy tubers for further multiplication (Wohleb et al., 2020).

4. Areas with high humidity where plants tiller heavily and need thinning — but this is rare.

Summary: How Many Tubers Per Hole?

For most gardeners and farmers, the optimal option is one tuber per hole with observance of the recommended planting pattern (Chapter 4).

Two tubers per hole is a special technique that only makes sense in the cases described above. In other situations, it leads to:

• uneven plant development,
• reduced total yield per unit area,
• increased proportion of small tubers (Wohleb et al., 2020; Knowles and Knowles, 2006).

Rule: one tuber = one plant. Exceptions are made only for very small seed material or under special seed production technologies.

1. Planting Too Deep

What the mistake is. The gardener buries tubers deeper than 12–15 cm (sometimes up to 20 cm) hoping they will root better and be protected from drought.

Consequences. Sprouts spend too much energy penetrating the thick soil layer. Emergence is delayed by 1–2 weeks, plants are weakened, stems are thin, and stem numbers decrease. Ultimately, yield drops by 20–30% (De Jong et al., 2011; Wohleb et al., 2020).

Why this happens. Potatoes have a limited nutrient reserve in the mother tuber. The longer the sprout's path to the surface, the more of these reserves are consumed by respiration, and the less remains for forming a strong plant. Additionally, deeper soil layers warm up more slowly in spring, further delaying development (Dean, 1993).

How to avoid. Follow the depth recommended in Chapter 3: for most soils — 8–10 cm. On light sandy soils — up to 12 cm. On heavy clay — 5–7 cm. Never plant deeper than 15 cm, even in arid regions (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

2. Planting Too Dense

What the mistake is. Wanting more yield from a small area, the gardener reduces spacing to 15–20 cm or plants two to three tubers per hole.

Consequences. Plants compete for light, water, and nutrients. Foliage stretches, leaves become smaller, photosynthetic productivity drops. Many tubers form, but they are small (Wohleb et al., 2020). With severe crowding, the risk of late blight and other fungal diseases increases due to poor ventilation (De Jong et al., 2011).

Why this happens. Potatoes are light-loving plants. They need space to form a strong canopy that will supply the tubers with carbohydrates. With dense planting, each plant receives less sunlight, and photosynthesis decreases. Additionally, root systems of neighboring plants intertwine and compete for water and nutrients (Swiader, 1992).

How to avoid. Follow the optimal pattern (Chapter 4): for most varieties — 70×30 cm, for early — 60×25 cm, for late — 70×35 cm. Use one tuber per hole (exception: very small seed material, Chapter 7). When in doubt, make spacing slightly larger rather than smaller (Pavek and Thornton, 2006).

3. Planting in Cold Soil

What the mistake is. Following the calendar or folk signs, the gardener rushes planting when the soil at 10 cm depth hasn't yet warmed to +8°C.

Consequences. Tubers lie in the ground for a long time without signs of growth. They become vulnerable to rhizoctonia (black scurf), which actively develops at +4…+6°C. Instead of uniform emergence — sparse, weakened plants. Some tubers may rot (Wohleb et al., 2020; Dean, 1993).

Why this happens. Potato bud eyes only begin to awaken at +5°C, but active growth requires at least +8…+10°C. In cold soil, metabolism is slowed, the tuber's defense mechanisms work less effectively, and pathogens gain the upper hand (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

How to avoid. Wait until the soil at 10 cm depth warms to +8…+10°C (ideally +12°C). Use a thermometer, not the calendar (Chapter 1). If spring is cold, consider ridge planting — ridges warm faster. Or use pre-planting warming of tubers 2–3 weeks before planting (see Chapters 1 and 3 on preparation) (De Jong et al., 2011).

4. Planting Un-sprouted Tubers

What the mistake is. The gardener plants tubers straight from storage, without allowing them to "wake up" and produce sprouts.

Consequences. Emergence is delayed by 1–2 weeks compared to using sprouted material. Plants are less uniform; some tubers may not emerge at all. Early potato yields drop by 20–40% (Balashev and Zeman, 1981; De Jong et al., 2011).

Why this happens. In storage, tubers are in a state of enforced dormancy (low temperature). After being moved to warmth, they need time to activate enzymes and start growing. If planted immediately, they will "wake up" in the ground, delaying emergence. Additionally, un-sprouted tubers resist cold and disease less effectively (Wohleb et al., 2020).

How to avoid. 2–4 weeks before planting, remove tubers from storage and place them in a bright room at +12…+16°C. Light sprouting produces thick, green, sturdy sprouts — they tolerate planting better and emerge faster (De Jong et al., 2011). If no bright room is available, sprout in boxes with moist sawdust or peat at +15…+18°C — this method produces sprouts with roots but requires more care during planting (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

5. Other Common Mistakes

Checklist: Check Yourself Before Planting

Before covering the last hole, check:

• ✔ Soil has warmed to +8…+10°C at 10 cm depth.
• ✔ Soil is moist but not wet (clump holds shape but doesn't release water).
• ✔ Planting depth matches soil type and tuber size (5–12 cm).
• ✔ Spacing between tubers in row is 25–35 cm (depending on variety).
• ✔ Organics and ash (and fertilizers if needed) have been added to each hole.
• ✔ Tubers are sprouted with strong sprouts (at least 0.5–1 cm).
• ✔ Crop rotation is observed (previous crop is not a solanaceous).

Final Conclusion

Planting potatoes is not just about burying a tuber in the ground. It is a set of agronomic practices, each of which influences the future harvest. Correct timing, optimal depth and spacing, starter nutrition, and tuber preparation — all work together. Missing one element risks losing a significant portion of your harvest, even if everything else is done right.

By following the recommendations in this article, you lay a solid foundation for healthy, strong plants and a bountiful, high-quality harvest. And most importantly — you do it with understanding, knowing why each practice works.

Good luck with your planting and a great harvest!