Care

1.1 Soil Loosening

Why do it. Loosening, or "dry watering," breaks up the soil crust and capillaries through which moisture rises to the surface and evaporates. This improves gas exchange in the soil, which is critical for root respiration, and helps retain moisture in the root zone (Westwood, 1993).

When and how to do it. Loosening is carried out several times per season: in early spring, after snowmelt, to seal in moisture; after each heavy rain or watering; and during summer to control weeds.

Depth and technique. This is a key point. Deep digging with a spade in the trunk circle causes serious injury to the roots, especially the absorbing rootlets. Deep tillage disrupts soil structure and can stimulate the formation of root suckers (Agustí, 2010). The optimal tillage depth is 8–10 cm near the trunk and up to 15 cm at the periphery of the trunk circle. The best tools for this are a hand cultivator, a hoe, or a flat cutter. In commercial orchards, regular digging is increasingly being abandoned in favour of other systems, as it is expensive, destroys soil structure, and offers no direct benefit to the tree (Agustí, 2010).

1.2 Mulching

Why do it. Mulch is the gardener's best friend. It solves several problems at once: it prevents weed growth, reduces moisture evaporation from the soil surface, protects roots from summer overheating and winter freezing, and, as it decomposes, becomes a source of organic matter (Srivastava, 2020).

What to use. As mulch, you can use:

• Organic: well-rotted compost, manure, mown grass (without seeds), straw, wood chips, or bark.
• Inorganic: black polyethylene film or agrofabric.

Important rule. When laying organic mulch, leave a gap (5–10 cm) around the trunk. If mulch is placed right against the bark, it will cause the bark to sweat, which can lead to fungal diseases and the death of the tree. The layer of organic mulch should be 8–10 cm thick. Polyethylene film or agrofabric is laid on a previously cleared and levelled area.

1.3 Weed Control

Why do it. Weeds in the trunk circle are direct competitors of the plum for water and mineral nutrients, primarily nitrogen. In arid regions, competition for moisture becomes a critical factor affecting fruit size and quality (Srivastava, 2020). In addition, dense weed growth creates a favourable microclimate for pests and diseases.

Main methods:

• Regular loosening and weeding. A traditional but labour-intensive method. It is important to remove weeds while they are young.
• Mulching. This is the most effective and environmentally friendly way to suppress weeds.
• Herbicide use. This method is rarely used in amateur gardening and requires great care to prevent chemicals from getting on the bark, leaves, and fruit of the plum. Preparations can be used spot-wise or in tank mixtures, strictly following the instructions.

1.4 Management of the Trunk Strip

What to choose: lawn or "bare fallow". This is one of the key questions in fruit orchard care.

• "Bare fallow" (soil without vegetation, kept loose) retains moisture well and provides good air access to the roots. This is the best choice for young orchards and in regions with insufficient moisture, where every millimetre of water is precious (Kurennoi et al., 1985). However, it requires constant cultivation and over time depletes the soil of organic matter.
• Sodding (sowing grasses in the rows). For plums, it is good to keep the trunk strip under mulch or "bare fallow" 1–1.5 m wide, while grasses can be sown in the inter-rows. In this case, the grass is regularly mown, and the clippings are left in place as mulch. This prevents soil erosion, improves soil structure, and creates a healthier ecosystem in the orchard, which is beneficial for pest control (Rodrigues & Arrobas, 2020). However, in arid regions, sodding requires mandatory irrigation.

Which method to choose. For the amateur gardener, I recommend the following universal approach: keep the trunk circles under organic mulch (e.g., compost or mown grass). This solves most weed and moisture problems and gradually improves the soil. Inter-rows can be sown with lawn grass and mown regularly. In hot and dry summer conditions in southern regions, sodding is not recommended without drip irrigation, as the grass will become a strong competitor for the tree (Rodrigues et al., 2011).

Mature trees with a developed root system are more tolerant of grass in the trunk circle, but it should not be allowed to become completely overgrown. A well-maintained trunk circle is the key to the health and stable fruiting of the plum.

2.1 Crop Thinning (Fruitlet Thinning)

Why do it. Plums have a very large number of flowers and fruitlets. If left unregulated, the tree will spend all its resources on producing an enormous number of small, tasteless fruits, and branches may break under their weight. Moreover, an overloaded tree will not be able to form flower buds for the next year's crop, leading to biennial bearing (Buckingham, 2010).

When and how to do it. Thinning is done manually and is the most effective, albeit labour‑intensive, method. The process is carried out in two stages:

1. After the natural June drop. In early summer (June), the tree itself sheds some of the fruitlets that it could not support. This is the so-called "June drop." After this, assess the situation and proceed with thinning (Buckingham, 2010).

2. Manually. The optimal time is when the fruits reach the size of a hazelnut (1–1.5 cm in diameter). Use sharp scissors or just your fingers to carefully remove excess fruitlets.

Basic rule for leaving fruit:

• For small‑fruited varieties (e.g., for jam), the distance between remaining fruits should be 5–8 cm.
• For large‑fruited varieties (dessert types), increase the distance to 8–10 cm (Buckingham, 2010).

Ideally, no more than 2–3 fruits should be left on each fruiting branch, especially if it is a young or weak tree.

2.2 Supporting Fruiting Branches

Why do it. Even after thinning, plum branches, especially in varieties with large and heavy fruits ('Warwickshire Drooper', 'Giant'), may not withstand the load. This risks breaking branches – a serious injury that opens the door to infections and can kill the tree (Hessayon, 1993).

When and how to do it. Supports are installed when the fruits begin to swell and the branches noticeably bend towards the ground. This should be done before breakage occurs.

• Props (forks). The easiest way is to place strong wooden or metal forked supports under heavy branches. To avoid damaging the bark, wrap the top end of the support with soft cloth or rubber (Westwood, 1993).
• Tying (maypoling). For tall trees with spreading crowns, the "maypoling" method can be used: the central trunk and main branches are tied together with rope, creating a single strong structure. This prevents the trunk from splitting and the skeletal branches from breaking under the weight of the crop (Hessayon, 1993).

Important: Props and ties should be removed immediately after harvest so that they do not restrict growth or cut into the bark.

2.3 Preventing Branch Breakage

Why know this. Breakage is the most severe injury to a tree. It can occur not only from the weight of fruit but also from strong wind, snow, or simply from an acute angle of branch attachment to the trunk.

How to prevent:

• Correct formative pruning. From the start, you need to build a crown with wide angles of attachment for skeletal branches (45–60°). If branches grow at an acute angle, they create a weak spot that easily splits (Krivko, 2014).
• Timely pruning. Removal of dry, diseased, and weak branches that could become sources of problems.
• Reducing crown height. In over‑tall trees, the centre of gravity shifts upwards, increasing the risk of wind‑induced breakage. In commercial orchards, machine contour pruning is used for this purpose (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

By regulating the load and supporting the crown, you are not just getting large and tasty fruits – you are investing in the health and longevity of your plum. Remember: it is better to harvest a bucket of large, sweet plums than a bag of small, tasteless ones and lose the tree in the process.

3.1 Tree Inspection

Why do it. Regular inspection allows you to spot problems at an early stage: cracks, frost cracks, signs of pest activity (e.g., bark beetles), or early symptoms of diseases such as bacterial canker and cytosporosis. The sooner you spot a problem, the easier it is to fix (Buckingham, 2010).

When and how to do it.

• Early spring, after the snow melts but before sap flow begins. This is when winter damage to the bark is most visible.
• Late autumn, after leaf fall, before preparing for winter.

Inspect not only the trunk but also the forks of skeletal branches, as these are the most vulnerable places. Pay attention to any cracks, peeling bark, spots of unusual colour, gummosis (amber‑coloured exudates), and hollows.

3.2 Bark Cleaning

Why do it. Dead, peeling bark is an ideal shelter for overwintering pests (codling moths, scale insects, mites) and fungal spores. Removing it is an important sanitary procedure that deprives "uninvited guests" of their home (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

When and how to do it. The best time is early spring or late autumn, when the tree is dormant. The weather should be damp but not rainy.

1. Spread a tarp or film under the tree to collect all the loose bark and debris.

2. Use a wooden or plastic scraper, or a stiff brush. Never use metal scrapers, knives, or brushes with steel bristles – they injure living bark tissue.

3. Carefully, without pressing hard, scrape off dead bark scales, working from top to bottom.

4. Burn all collected debris and bark to destroy pests.

3.3 Whitewashing

Why do it. Whitewashing serves two key functions:

1. Protection against sunscald (frost cracks). In winter and early spring, the sun reflecting off the snow strongly heats the dark bark. During the day, tissues thaw and start to vegetate, but at night the temperature drops sharply and they freeze. These fluctuations cause tissue rupture – frost cracks. White bark reflects sunlight and prevents overheating (Hessayon, 1993; Westwood, 1993).

2. Protection against pests. Whitewash with copper sulphate added kills pests and fungal spores overwintering in bark crevices.

When and how to do it. The optimal time is late autumn (November), when there have already been frosts but temperatures have not dropped below zero. It is important to whitewash the trunk before persistent frosts set in. Spring whitewashing (February–March) is also possible, but it mainly serves to protect against sunscald.

Composition and technique. Use a special garden whitewash or make your own: mix lime (2–3 kg), copper sulphate (500 g), and wood glue (100 g) in 10 litres of water. The glue helps the whitewash adhere longer to the bark.

• Apply the whitewash with a brush, carefully painting all cracks and crevices.
• The whitewash should cover not only the trunk but also the bases of the skeletal branches.

3.4 Protection against Mechanical Damage

Why do it. Any wound on the bark is an entry point for infection. Mechanical damage can be caused by a lawnmower or trimmer strike, branch breakage, incorrect cutting, rodent activity (hares, field mice), and even strong wind.

How to prevent and treat:

• Trunk circle. Regular loosening and mulching protect the roots and lower part of the trunk from accidental tool damage.
• Rodent protection. This is a separate major topic, which will be covered in detail in Chapter 5 "Protection against Adverse Factors." For now, just note: in autumn, the trunk must be wrapped with fine‑mesh netting, spruce branches, or special protective material up to a height of 1 metre (Buckingham, 2010).
• Wound treatment. If damage does occur, it must be treated immediately. First, clean the wound with a sharp knife down to healthy tissue. Then disinfect with a 1% copper sulphate solution and cover with grafting wax, a special paste like "RanNet," or oil paint based on natural drying oil. This will prevent drying out and wood infection (Krivko, 2014).

A healthy trunk means a strong and long‑lived tree. Taking a little time for inspection and prevention will save your plum from many serious problems.

4.1 Spring Work

Spring is the time of awakening and laying the foundation for the future harvest. Main tasks:

• Sanitary and formative pruning (before bud break). Remove all dry, frost‑damaged, broken, and diseased branches. In mature trees, cut out branches that thicken the crown to ensure good light and ventilation. Important: in regions with cold winters, prune as late as possible to reduce the risk of frost injury, as cut branches lose part of their cold hardiness (Westwood, 1993). For stone fruits (plum, cherry), pruning is recommended not in the dormant period but after the start of sap flow to reduce the risk of silver leaf infection and bacterial canker (Buckingham, 2010).
• Fertilising. In early spring, when the ground thaws, apply nitrogen fertilisers. Nitrogen stimulates shoot and leaf growth – that is, the creation of the "factory" for producing nutrients (Westwood, 1993; Kurennoi et al., 1985). Suitable options are urea (carbamide), ammonium nitrate, or well‑rotted manure (incorporated into the soil). Autumn nitrogen application is unacceptable because it stimulates shoot growth and hinders winter preparation (Westwood, 1993).
• Whitewashing. If for any reason whitewashing was not done in autumn, it is carried out in early spring, before bud swelling. This protects the bark from sunscald during active snowmelt.
• Trunk circle care. Loosen the soil to seal in moisture and renew the mulch layer (Agustí, 2010).
• Frost protection. Prepare for possible return frosts (see Chapter 5). This may include preparing smoke piles or covering material.
• Disease and pest control. At the "green cone" stage (when buds begin to burst), carry out a preventive spray with 3% Bordeaux mixture or other approved copper‑based preparations to kill overwintering stages of disease pathogens (Krivko, 2014).

4.2 Summer Care

Summer is the most active period: the tree flowers, sets fruit, and grows its crop. Care at this time is aimed at creating conditions for maximum fruit quality.

• Watering. Regular and abundant watering is the key to large, juicy fruits. In hot weather, the tree needs intensive watering, especially during fruit growth and swelling (July–August). Waterings should be deep (to 40–60 cm) to wet the entire root zone. Lack of moisture at this time will lead to small size, drop, and cracking of fruit (Westwood, 1993; Buckingham, 2010).
• Fertilising. After flowering, during active fruit growth, apply phosphorus‑potassium fertilisers to improve fruit taste, colour, and storage ability. You can use potassium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, or complex fertilisers with a predominance of these elements (Gull et al., 2023).
• Summer pruning (pinching). To direct nutrients to the fruit rather than unnecessary shoot growth, in early summer pinch the tips of overly vigorous green shoots (especially on young trees). This limits their growth and stimulates the formation of fruit buds for the following year (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Crop thinning. If there are too many fruitlets, thin the fruit in June (see Chapter 2). This improves the quality of the remaining fruit.
• Pest control. During summer, monitor for pests (aphids, plum codling moth, sawfly) and, if necessary, treat with approved insecticides. Remember the pre‑harvest intervals.
• Harvesting. Plums are picked as they ripen, in several passes. For long‑term storage, pick fruits with the stalk, a few days before full ripeness. For fresh consumption, pick at full ripeness, when they are soft and sweet (Gull et al., 2023; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

4.3 Autumn Care

Autumn is the time when the tree completes its cycle and prepares for winter dormancy. The main aim of autumn work is to help the tree survive winter and set a good crop for the following year.

• Pre‑winter watering. In late September – October, after leaf fall, carry out abundant watering (10–15 buckets of water per mature tree). Moist soil freezes less deeply than dry soil, protecting roots from freezing, and the watering itself helps roots accumulate moisture and nutrients (Westwood, 1993).
• Fertilising. In autumn, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilisers (superphosphate, potassium sulphate, wood ash). Do not apply nitrogen fertilisers in autumn. Phosphorus and potassium promote wood maturation, increase winter hardiness, and set fruit buds for the next year (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Westwood, 1993).
• Sanitary pruning. Remove all dry, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as suckers and water sprouts that thicken the crown.
• Collecting fallen leaves and dropped fruit. This is a very important sanitary measure. Fungal spores and pest larvae overwinter in fallen leaves and fruit. All of this must be collected and burned or buried outside the plot (Agustí, 2010; Buckingham, 2010).
• Digging the trunk circle. Light, shallow (8–10 cm) digging of the trunk circle helps destroy pests that overwinter in the soil.
• Whitewashing. Carry out autumn whitewashing of the trunk and bases of skeletal branches to protect against winter sunscald and frost cracks.
• Rodent protection. Install protective netting or wrapping on the trunk (see Chapter 5).

4.4 Winter Preparation

Winter is a period of dormancy. The main task is to protect the tree from harsh weather conditions.

• Root system insulation. After the first frosts, the trunk circle can be additionally mulched with a layer of peat, compost, or dry leaves (10–15 cm thick) to protect roots from freezing in snowless winters.
• Protection against sunscald. If whitewashing was not done, it can be done in early winter during thaws.
• Snow shaking. During heavy snowfall, it is advisable to shake heavy, wet snow from the branches so they do not break under its weight (Hessayon, 1993).
• Rodent protection. Regularly check the condition of protective materials on the trunk and renew them if necessary.

Following these seasonal recommendations will allow your plum not only to survive in challenging climatic conditions but also to delight you annually with abundant, high‑quality harvests.

5.1 Spring Frosts

What is the danger. Plums bloom early – often during the period when return frosts are still possible. Temperatures below -2 °C during flowering can destroy flowers, and thus the entire crop. The most vulnerable parts are the pistils and ovaries (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Buckingham, 2010).

How to protect:

• Site and variety selection. This is the most effective preventive method. Avoid planting plums in low‑lying areas, so‑called "frost pockets" (Cornell Guide). Choose late‑flowering varieties that are more likely to escape spring frosts.
• Sprinkling. Fine‑mist overhead watering (spraying the canopy with water) on the night before a frost can save flowers. As the water freezes, it releases heat, which protects the flowers. This method is effective at temperatures not lower than -5 °C (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Smoking. Lighting smoke piles in the orchard on the night before frost creates a smoke screen that prevents heat radiation from the soil. Use wet straw, sawdust, or special smoke bombs. The effectiveness of this method is limited, especially in strong wind (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Covering. In small gardens, non‑woven covering material (spunbond, agrotex) can be used to protect flowering trees. This is the most reliable but labour‑intensive method.

5.2 Drought

What is the danger. Lack of moisture during fruit growth and swelling leads to smaller fruits, premature drop, and poor taste. In arid regions, competition for water with weeds and grass becomes critical (Westwood, 1993; Srivastava, 2020).

How to protect:

• Regular watering. The most obvious and effective method. In hot weather, a mature plum should be watered at least 2–3 times a month, using 5–10 buckets of water per tree. The soil wetting depth should be 40–60 cm (Westwood, 1993).
• Mulching. A layer of organic mulch (8–10 cm) significantly reduces moisture evaporation from the soil surface (Agustí, 2010).
• Drip irrigation. The most efficient method, delivering water directly to the roots and minimising evaporation losses. In commercial orchards, drip irrigation dramatically increases water‑use efficiency (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

5.3 Heat

What is the danger. Extremely high temperatures (above 35 °C), combined with dry wind, can cause "sunburn" on fruit and leaves, as well as strong evaporation, leading to tree stress.

How to protect:

• Abundant watering. In heat, evaporation from leaves increases, and the tree may suffer from dehydration even in moist soil. Watering becomes even more critical.
• Mulching. Protects the soil from overheating, keeping roots in a comfortably cool environment (Agustí, 2010).
• Fine‑mist overhead spraying (cooling irrigation). During the hottest hours of the day, you can spray the canopy with water. This lowers the temperature and increases humidity around the tree, improving its condition (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

5.4 Severe Frost (Winter Freeze)

What is the danger. Plum is not the most winter‑hardy crop. Severe frosts (below -30 °C) can damage not only fruit buds but also the wood, leading to branch death or the entire tree (Cornell Guide).

How to protect:

• Choosing winter‑hardy varieties. This is a fundamental factor. For regions with harsh winters, choose zoned varieties adapted to the local climate (Cornell Guide; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Pre‑winter watering. Autumn watering (late September – October) increases tree winter hardiness. Moist soil freezes more slowly and protects the roots (Westwood, 1993).
• Mulching the trunk circle. An extra layer of mulch (peat, compost, dry leaves) protects the root system from freezing in snowless winters.

5.5 Rodents

What is the danger. In winter, when food is scarce, hares and field mice may gnaw the bark off the trunk and roots, leading to tree death. Young trees are especially vulnerable (Buckingham, 2010; Cornell Guide).

How to protect:

• Mechanical protection. This is the most reliable method. In autumn, wrap the trunk with fine‑mesh metal netting, roofing felt, tar paper, or special plastic protective tape. Make sure the protection reaches the ground and is securely fastened (Buckingham, 2010).
• Repellents. You can spray with special repellents (e.g., with predator scent) or place bundles of mint, wormwood near the tree.
• Keeping order. Regular removal of weeds and plant debris around the tree removes shelter for mice.

5.6 Sunscald (Frost Cracks)

What is the danger. Sunscald occurs on the bark in late winter and early spring, when bright sun heats the dark bark and it freezes again at night. These fluctuations cause tissue ruptures that become entry points for infection (Westwood, 1993; Hessayon, 1993).

How to protect:

• Whitewashing. Autumn (and spring) whitewashing of the trunk and bases of skeletal branches is the main and most effective method of preventing sunscald. The white colour reflects sunlight and prevents bark overheating (Hessayon, 1993; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Wrapping. In small gardens, the trunk can be wrapped with white non‑woven material or paper to reflect sunlight.

5.7 Strong Wind

What is the danger. Strong winds can break branches, especially those overloaded with fruit, disrupt stomatal function (the small openings on leaves through which gas exchange occurs), reducing photosynthesis, and cause mechanical damage to fruit (Agustí, 2010).

How to protect:

• Correct shaping. Building a strong skeleton with wide branch attachment angles makes the tree more resistant to wind loads (Westwood, 1993).
• Timely pruning. Removing excess, weak, and overburdening branches reduces the crown's sail area.
• Props. Installing supports under heavy, fruit‑laden branches prevents breakage (Buckingham, 2010).
• Windbreaks. In regions with constant strong winds, it is recommended to create protective plantings (e.g., of tall trees) on the windward side of the orchard, but at a distance so they do not cast shade (Agustí, 2010).

Understanding these threats and applying timely protective measures will help your plum remain healthy and productive even in unfavourable weather conditions.

6.1 Removal of Dry and Damaged Branches

Why do it. Dry, diseased, broken, and frost‑damaged branches are not just an aesthetic flaw. They are a source of infection (fungal spores, bacteria) and a place for pest overwintering. In addition, they thicken the crown, reducing light penetration and ventilation, which creates a favourable environment for disease development (Krivko, 2014; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

When and how to do it. This work can be done throughout the season, but major sanitary pruning is done:

• Early spring (before sap flow) – remove frost‑damaged and broken branches from winter.
• Autumn (after leaf fall) – remove all dry and diseased branches that could be a source of infection in winter.

Technique. Cut branches with a sharp pruner or saw, making the cut "on the ring" – at the very base, leaving no stubs. When removing large branches (thicker than 2–3 cm), first make an undercut from below to prevent the branch from tearing the bark. After pruning, all cuts larger than 1–2 cm in diameter should be covered with grafting wax or a special paste like "RanNet" to protect against infection and speed healing (Kurennoi et al., 1985). All cut branches should be burned or removed from the site.

6.2 Collecting Dropped Fruit

Why do it. Dropped fruit (windfalls) are often affected by diseases (e.g., moniliosis, fruit rot) or pests (codling moth larvae). If left uncollected, pest larvae will enter the soil to overwinter, and disease spores will infect the tree next season (Buckingham, 2010; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

When and how to do it. Dropped fruit should be collected regularly throughout the ripening period, at least 1–2 times a week. It is especially important to collect all fallen fruit in autumn after harvest.

• Diseased and damaged fruits must be buried in a deep hole outside the garden or burned.
• Healthy windfalls can be composted, but not in the trunk circle.

6.3 Removal of Plant Debris

Why do it. Fallen leaves, weed residues, mown grass – all of these are potential shelters for pests and sources of infection, especially in high humidity. For example, spores of scab and other fungal diseases overwinter on fallen leaves, and mites and insect larvae in dry grass (Cornell Guide; Srivastava, 2020).

When and how to do it. The main collection of plant debris is done in late autumn, after leaf fall.

• Digging in. In dry weather, dig the trunk circles to a depth of 8–10 cm, incorporating the leaves into the soil, where they will decompose and become fertiliser. This method is suitable only for healthy, disease‑free plants.
• Composting. If the leaves are not diseased, they can be added to the compost heap.
• Burning. If there were outbreaks of disease (scab, moniliosis, coccomycosis) in the garden, fallen leaves and remains of diseased fruit should be burned to destroy the infection.

6.4 Monitoring Tree Condition

Why do it. Regular tree inspection allows you to detect early signs of disease, pest appearance, or stress symptoms (wilting, leaf deformation, gummosis). The earlier you notice a problem, the easier and more effective the treatment will be (Buckingham, 2010).

What and when to inspect.

• Root collar. The most vulnerable place, where signs of disease and damage often appear first. Inspect it every spring and autumn.
• Trunk and skeletal branches. Look for cracks, wounds, spots on the bark, gummosis (amber‑coloured exudates), and presence of bracket fungi.
• Leaves. Pay attention to colour changes, spots, curling, premature wilting, and leaf drop.
• Fruits. The appearance of rot, spots, deformations, or signs of pest presence (tunnels, frass) is a signal for urgent action.

What to do when a problem is found.

1. Identify the cause. As accurately as possible, determine what you are dealing with (disease, pest, nutrient deficiency, drought).

2. Take action. Depending on the problem, this may be sanitary pruning, spraying, changing the watering regime, or fertilising.

3. Consultation. If you are unsure of the diagnosis, take a photo and seek advice from a specialist at your regional horticultural centre.

Remember: Attentive and regular garden inspection is the simplest and most effective way to prevent serious disease and pest problems. Cleanliness and order are the best friends of a healthy garden.