Care

What Happens Underground During Hilling?

When you draw moist, loose soil to the base of the stems, you are not just "covering" the plant higher. You create new opportunities for it.

1. Protecting tubers from light: green poison

Potato tubers are modified underground shoots. In light, they initiate photosynthesis: they turn green, accumulating chlorophyll and, concurrently, the toxic alkaloid solanine (Jong et al., 2011). Even slight greening makes tubers bitter and unfit for consumption. Solanine is not destroyed by cooking, and an excess can cause poisoning. Hilling creates a layer of soil at least 5–8 cm thick over young tubers—enough to prevent light from reaching them (Jong et al., 2011; Swiader, 1992). Without hilling, even tubers that accidentally appear on the surface lose marketable quality.

2. Stimulating the formation of new stolons and roots

The potato stem has an underground part—the "epicotyl" and nodes from which additional stolons (shoots at the ends of which tubers set) and adventitious roots can develop (Swiader, 1992; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). When you add soil, you extend the portion of the stem that is underground. At each new node placed in a moist, dark environment, buds are activated, giving rise to new stolons. The more stolons, the more potential tubers (Navarre & Pavek, 2020). Furthermore, additional roots formed from the buried nodes improve plant nutrition—the stronger the root system, the more water and minerals it can absorb.

3. Soil loosening and oxygen access

Hilling is not just about adding soil; it also involves deep loosening between rows. It breaks the soil crust that often forms after rains or watering. Roots and tubers breathe—they consume oxygen. In dense, compacted soil, gas exchange is hindered, roots suffocate, tuber growth slows, and in wet weather, the risk of fungal diseases increases (Dean, 1994; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). Loose soil around stems ensures air flow to roots and stolons and also promotes better warming of the top layer, accelerating development.

4. Weed control—mechanical and strategic

Hilling simultaneously cuts weeds in the rows and covers small seedlings with soil. This is especially important in the first 4–6 weeks after emergence, when potato foliage has not yet closed in and weeds can smother it (Burke & Everman, 2013; Jabran et al., 2023). Moreover, hilling destroys the root system of perennial weeds (sow thistle, couch grass), weakening them for a long time. If hilling is done on time, weeds will not have time to produce seeds, and there will be noticeably fewer of them next year.

5. Temperature and moisture regulation

The loose hill retains moisture better in spring and early summer when drought has not yet set in. It also protects the root system from sharp temperature fluctuations: the soil in the hill warms up faster during the day and cools down slower at night, creating more stable conditions for tubers (Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

Why Does Hilling Work So Effectively?

The answer lies in potato physiology. This plant has a unique ability to form new organs from stem nodes if they are placed in suitable conditions. Hilling is the only way to "trick" nature and make the potato grow more stolons and roots than it would on its own. It also combines protective, nutritional, and health-improving functions that no single mulch or watering alone can provide.

Key takeaway: hilling is not a one-time action but a system of techniques aimed at increasing tuber numbers, quality, and protection. Done correctly, it can increase yield by 20–40% (Jong et al., 2011; Swiader, 1992). But if you do it too late, too deep, or, conversely, too shallowly—the effect will be lost, and in some cases, it may even be harmful.

The First Hilling: When Plants Grow Up

The optimal height of the foliage for the first hilling is 15–20 cm (about 6–8 inches) (Jong et al., 2011). It is during this period that potatoes actively begin to form stolons, and if you give them an "extra floor" of loose soil, they will more readily set new tubers (Swiader, 1992). Usually, this happens 3–4 weeks after full emergence.

Some gardeners rush and hill as soon as the sprouts emerge. This should not be done: young stems are still fragile and easily damaged; instead of stimulating growth, you risk delaying development. Moreover, the first hilling should be done when the plants are already growing vigorously but have not yet begun to close in the row.

What to do if there is a drought? If the soil is dry, water before hilling (or wait for a good rain). Hilling on dry ground will have little effect, and moisture in the root zone will be quickly lost. It is better to moisten the soil first, let it dry a little—so there is no mud—and then hill (Dean, 1994).

The Second Hilling: Consolidating Success

Hill for the second time when the bushes reach a height of 25–30 cm—about 2–3 weeks after the first. By this time, the rows are usually starting to close in, and weeds in the inter-rows are growing actively. The second hilling allows you to:

• finally cover all the weeds that were not destroyed during the first pass;
• create a higher and wider hill to protect growing tubers from light;
• add moist, loose soil to the base of the stem, stimulating the formation of new roots and stolons.

The second hilling is usually the final one. After it, until harvest, inter-row cultivation is no longer carried out to avoid damaging roots and young tubers (Burke & Everman, 2013). Important rule: the second hilling must be completed before the potato begins to flower, that is, about 30–40 days after emergence (Jong et al., 2011). After flowering, most varieties stop actively growing stolons, and additional soil addition no longer increases tuber yield and may only injure roots.

The Third Hilling: Is It Necessary?

In most cases, a third hilling is unnecessary, especially on medium and heavy soils. A third inter-row cultivation often damages surface roots and tubers and also compacts the soil with tractor or motor-cultivator wheels. On light sandy soils that dry out and wash away quickly, a light topping up is sometimes done—but this is more the exception than the rule (Swiader, 1992; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

An exception is if you use high ridge planting (for example, on peatlands or in areas of excessive moisture), where hilling helps drain excess water away from the roots. In such cases, 3–4 hillings may be done, but these are already specialized agronomic techniques (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

General Timeliness Rules

What Not to Do During Hilling

1. Hill plants higher than 8–10 cm at a time. A sudden large addition of soil can delay the growth of foliage because the stems spend energy on forming additional roots and stolons rather than leaves. It is better to do two small operations than one deep one.

2. Hill in dry, hot weather without pre-watering. Loosening dry soil only increases evaporation, and moisture escapes faster. In addition, hilling on dry ground often results in clods that do not cover the stems well.

3. Allow soil to fall into the "heart" of the bush—the central growing point. If soil covers the growing point, the plant may stop developing or even die. Therefore, when hilling, try to let the soil lie around the stems, not on them.

Regional Dependence

The timing of hilling depends on your climate zone. In warm regions (subtropics, southern Europe), potatoes develop faster, and the intervals between hillings can be shorter—10–14 days. In cool climates (northern regions), plants grow slower, and the interval can be extended to 3 weeks. The main guide is not the calendar, but the plant development phase (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

Conclusion

The optimal scheme for most gardeners is two hillings per season: the first when the foliage is 15–20 cm tall, the second—2–3 weeks before flowering, forming a high hill. In most cases, this is enough to form a good harvest and protect the tubers from greening.

Why Are Weeds So Dangerous to Potatoes?

Potato is a crop with a relatively weak root system at a young age. Its roots penetrate 30–60 cm deep, but the bulk of the absorbing rootlets is in the top 20-centimeter layer (Navarre & Pavek, 2020). Weeds, especially aggressive ones like lamb's quarters (Chenopodium album), pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus), and sow thistle (Cirsium arvense), develop powerful root systems much faster and intercept moisture and nitrogen before the potatoes can use them (Burke & Everman, 2013). In addition, tall weeds (e.g., field mustard, sow thistle) shade young plants, reducing photosynthesis and delaying development. As a result, tubers set later, there are fewer of them, and they are smaller.

Some weeds act as reservoirs for diseases and pests. Black nightshade (Solanum nigrum) and hairy nightshade (Solanum sarrachoides)—close relatives of potatoes—are alternative hosts for potato virus Y and late blight, as well as for the Colorado potato beetle (Jabran et al., 2023; Nitzan et al., 2009). Quackgrass (Elymus repens) and field sow thistle not only take resources but their rhizomes can physically grow through tubers, making them unfit for storage (Burke & Everman, 2013).

The Critical Weeding Period

For potatoes, the critical period for weed control begins with the emergence of seedlings and lasts until the foliage closes in the rows—about 30–40 days after emergence (Jabran et al., 2023). During this period, weeds compete most actively with the crop. If weeds are not removed during this time, even subsequent weeding will not restore the lost yield, because the number of tubers set has already been determined (Dogan et al., 2015). In practice, this means that the first weeding should be done no later than 2–3 weeks after emergence, and the second—another 2–3 weeks later, before flowering.

Main Weed Species in Potato Fields

By life cycle type, weeds are divided into three groups, and the approach to each is different.

Weed Control Methods

When and How Often to Weed?

The optimal strategy for most regions:

1. First weeding — 2–3 weeks after emergence, when weeds are in the "thread" stage (2–4 true leaves). At this time, they are most vulnerable and easily destroyed by loosening or light hilling. If you miss this moment, they will quickly outgrow and become more resilient.

2. Second weeding — 2–3 weeks before flowering, simultaneously with the second hilling. By this time, some weeds may re-emerge from seeds, and perennials may regrow from roots. The second treatment allows you to "finish them off" before the rows close.

3. Third, selective weeding — after flowering, if particularly noxious perennials (sow thistle, bindweed) or tall weeds that rise above the foliage appear. It is better to remove them by hand without damaging the potato root system.

In hot and humid climates, weeds grow faster, and intervals between weedings may be shortened to 10–14 days. In cooler regions—3 weeks (Jabran et al., 2023; Kemble, 2022).

Specifics for Organic Farming

In organic potato growing, herbicides are not used, so emphasis is placed on mechanical and agronomic methods. Key techniques:

• Crop rotation — including crops with high competitive ability (cereals, legumes, rapeseed), as well as green manure fallows that suppress weeds (Burke & Everman, 2013).
• False seedbed — provoking weed germination before planting, followed by their destruction with surface tillage. This technique can significantly reduce weed infestation (Jabran et al., 2023).
• Use of row-crop cultivators with rotary tools that cut weeds between rows without damaging roots.
• Hand weeding at the final stage—to remove weeds that have emerged in the row.

Typical Weeding Mistakes

1. Delaying the first weeding. The 3–4 weeks most critical for potatoes after emergence—if weeds are not removed, they can significantly outpace the crop in growth, and even thorough subsequent weeding will not restore yield (Burke & Everman, 2013).

2. Too deep loosening. Depth more than 10–12 cm in the inter-row can damage roots and stolons, leading to a reduction in tuber numbers. The optimal depth for the first cultivation is 4–6 cm, for the second—6–8 cm (Kemble, 2022).

3. Leaving weeds on the field after cultivation. Pulled weeds, especially perennials (sow thistle, quackgrass), can root if not removed from the plot. They may also produce seeds if they have flowers.

4. Ignoring perennials. If the plot has quackgrass or sow thistle, they should either be carefully removed during digging or treated with non-selective herbicides 2–3 weeks before planting. Surface loosening will not destroy them (Burke & Everman, 2013).

5. Excessive use of the same herbicides. This leads to the emergence of resistant weed biotypes that are no longer controlled by standard doses. It is necessary to alternate products with different mechanisms of action (Jabran et al., 2023).

Weeding Conclusions

• The main thing is not to be late. The critical period is the first 4–6 weeks after emergence.
• Combine methods: mechanical cultivation + manual removal of perennials (or spot herbicide application) gives the best results.
• Remove weeds before flowering, preventing seeding—this will reduce infestation next year.
• On organic plots, use false seedbed, crop rotation, and mulching.

Loosening: The "Lungs" for Potatoes

Loosening is the surface (3–6 cm deep) breaking of the soil crust and compaction between rows and around plants. It is often confused with hilling, but these are different operations:

• Hilling — drawing soil to the stems (forming a hill).
• Loosening — simply loosening the top layer without moving soil to the plants.

Mulching: A "Blanket" for the Soil

Mulching is covering the soil surface around plants with organic material (straw, hay, cut grass, compost, sawdust, bark) or synthetic film (black or clear polyethylene, agro-fabric). Unlike loosening, mulch creates a permanent protective layer that works all summer.

Loosening or Mulching: What to Choose?

Both techniques are beneficial, but combining them gives the best results:

• Loosening — a quick but temporary effect. It needs to be repeated after every rain or watering.
• Mulching — a long-term solution that works all season but requires initial costs (material, labor).

On small plots, it is better to combine: at the beginning of the season (before rows close), carry out loosening, and after the first hilling, lay mulch—and then just maintain its layer. On large areas where manual mulching is labor-intensive, they often limit themselves to loosening and hilling, and use mulch only on the most valuable or problematic areas (Jabran et al., 2023; Kemble, 2022).

Chapter Conclusions

• Loosening is necessary for aeration, moisture conservation, and weed destruction in the early period. Do it after every rain or watering until the rows close, at a depth of 3–6 cm.
• Mulching is long-term protection against weeds, overheating, and evaporation. Use organic mulch (straw, hay, compost) in a 5–10 cm layer after the first hilling, or black film for an early harvest.
• In hot regions, mulching is critical; in cool regions, it is better to postpone it until the soil warms up.

Potato Flowering: What Is It For?

Potato flowers are not "parasites" stealing energy. They are natural reproductive organs that, in nature, should produce seeds (berries with "seeds" called "fruits" or "potato berries"). Flowering is a complex physiological process associated with the hormonal restructuring of the entire plant.

In potatoes, flowering coincides with the phase of active tuber growth. During this period, the plant has already formed its leaf apparatus and actively photosynthesizes, producing carbohydrates that are distributed among all organs—leaves, stems, roots, flowers, berries, and tubers (Swiader, 1992; Navarre & Pavek, 2020). The main "consumer" of carbohydrates at this time is the tubers, not the flowers. Flowers and ovaries do consume some assimilates, but their share in the overall plant balance is small—no more than 2–5% of the total organic mass produced (Jong et al., 2011; Dean, 1994).

Where Did the Myth Come From?

The myth about removing flowers likely arose because in some older varieties, flowering was abundant and long, and berries ripened in large quantities. Gardeners noticed that after flowering, tubers began to grow intensively, and they made the erroneous conclusion: "flowers are in the way." Moreover, in the 1970s–1980s, studies were conducted that showed that removing flowers in some varieties could indeed slightly increase tuber mass—but only under conditions of moisture and nutrient deficiency, when resources were severely limited (Jong et al., 2011; Dean, 1994). However, these results were valid only for those specific conditions and are not universal.

What Does Modern Research Say?

Numerous field experiments conducted in different countries and climatic zones have shown that removing flowers and buds generally does not produce a significant yield increase (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020). Moreover, in some cases, removing flowers can even reduce yield or worsen tuber quality. Why?

1. Photosynthesis of flowers. The green sepals and petals of potatoes also participate in photosynthesis and supply carbohydrates that can be used for tuber growth (Jong et al., 2011). By removing flowers, we also remove this additional "photosynthetic platform."

2. Hormonal changes. Flowering is associated with the production of hormones (particularly gibberellins and cytokinins) that regulate the distribution of nutrients in the plant. The sudden removal of buds and flowers can disrupt this balance, and the plant in response may start growing new shoots (suckers) instead of directing resources to tubers (Dean, 1994; Swiader, 1992).

3. Stress for the plant. Flower picking is a mechanical injury that requires additional resources from the plant for wound healing and restoration of hormonal balance. This can slow tuber growth, especially in hot or dry weather when the plant is already stressed (Jong et al., 2011).

4. Varietal influence. The response to flower removal varies greatly depending on the variety, growing conditions, and even the stage at which flowers are removed. In some varieties with very abundant flowering and large berry set, removal may have a slight positive effect—up to 5–7% increase in tuber mass (Navarre & Pavek, 2020). But in most modern varieties, especially those that flower weakly or drop buds without setting berries, the effect is zero or negative.

What Do Authoritative Sources Say?

• The classic guide "The Complete Book of Potatoes" (De Jong et al., 2011) explicitly states that flower removal is not recommended, as it does not provide a significant yield increase and can damage plants.
• Vegetable growing textbooks (Swiader, 1992; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003) also note that flower removal is an extra labor-intensive operation that does not justify the time and effort.
• Research on potato physiology (Navarre & Pavek, 2020) confirms that the main factor limiting yield is the leaf surface area and the duration of active photosynthesis, not the number of flowers.

When Can Flower Removal Be Justified?

There are only a few situations where removing flowers and berries might make sense:

1. Breeding work. If you are growing potatoes for seed (botanical seeds), berries are needed. In all other cases—no.

2. Disease and pest control. Sometimes potato berries attract pests (e.g., caterpillars) or become a focus of infection (late blight). In such cases, removal of berries may be justified, but not the flowers, but already set fruits (Jong et al., 2011).

3. Varieties with very large and numerous berries. In some old varieties (e.g., some Indian or South American ones), berries are very large and their formation can consume significant resources. In such cases, berry removal can give a slight increase in tubers (Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

4. Extreme conditions. Under severe drought or on very poor soils, when resources are strictly limited, removing berries and flowers can help direct more carbohydrates to tubers. However, in practice, this is rarely economically justified (Dean, 1994).

Practical Conclusion: What Should the Gardener Do?

For the vast majority of varieties and conditions — nothing. Do not spend time picking off flowers. This will not increase the yield, but can take hours of work on a small plot. If in doubt, conduct a simple experiment: remove flowers on a few plants and leave them on neighboring ones. Compare yields and see for yourself that there is no difference.

An exception is if you notice that the berries are heavily crowding the bush and look diseased (e.g., with late blight). In this case, remove the ovaries to avoid creating a nutrient medium for the fungus.

The main principle: potato care should be directed at creating a powerful leaf apparatus and a healthy root system—they determine the yield. Loosening, watering, fertilizing, and disease protection have a much greater effect than fighting flowers (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

Additional Considerations

• In some varieties, flowers and berries can be poisonous (contain solanine). It is better to warn children not to eat them, but removal is not necessary.
• If you need planting material from berries (hybrids), then you should preserve the berries. But this is already a topic for another article—for beginners, it is better to use tubers.

Brief Chapter Summary

Mistake #1. Late Hilling or Skipping the First Hilling

How it manifests. The first hilling is done when the foliage has already grown to 30–40 cm, or they only do it once in mid-summer. As a result, the bushes form few stolons, fewer tubers are set, and some of them green in the light.

Why it is harmful. The main period of tuber set occurs at 3–6 weeks after emergence. If hilling is delayed, stolons do not get an additional "floor" for growth, and some buds on the underground nodes remain unrealized (Swiader, 1992). Moreover, exposed tubers quickly green (Jong et al., 2011).

How to do it right. Do the first hilling when the foliage is 15–20 cm tall, the second—2–3 weeks later, before flowering. It is two hillings with an interval that gives the maximum effect (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

Mistake #2. Too Deep Hilling and Loosening

How it manifests. The gardener tries to "bury" the potato higher, drawing soil up by 10–15 cm at once, or loosens the inter-rows to a depth of 10–12 cm. As a result, the plants do not start growing for a long time, the foliage turns yellow, and the yield drops.

Why it is harmful. Too deep cultivation damages surface roots and young stolons, which are located close to the surface. Restoring the root system takes energy from the plant, and tuberization is delayed. In addition, a sudden large addition of soil blocks air access to the stems, which can cause rotting of the lower leaves and even plant death (Dean, 1994; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

How to do it right. Hill gradually: in the first hilling, add 4–5 cm of soil; in the second, another 4–5 cm. The total height of the hill should not exceed 15–20 cm (depending on the variety and soil type). The depth of inter-row loosening is 4–6 cm for the first treatment and 6–8 cm for the second. After the rows close, loosening stops (Kemble, 2022; Burke & Everman, 2013).

Mistake #3. Exposing Tubers During Loosening or Watering

How it manifests. After heavy rains or sprinkler irrigation, the top layer of the hill is washed away, and young tubers end up on the surface. The gardener does not notice this or does not rush to cover them.

Why it is harmful. Tubers exposed to light turn green, accumulating solanine, which makes them inedible (Jong et al., 2011). In addition, exposed tubers suffer from overheating, drying out, and can be damaged by pests.

How to do it right. Regularly inspect the plantings after heavy rains and, if necessary, immediately hill up or add soil around the exposed tubers. If this is not possible, use mulch (straw, hay)—it will protect the tubers from light and retain moisture (Jabran et al., 2023; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Mistake #4. Allowing Weeds to Grow Until Flowering

How it manifests. The gardener weeds the potatoes once a month after emergence, and then forgets about the weeds until they overgrow the potatoes. As a result, the potato foliage is weak, and the harvest is small.

Why it is harmful. In the first 4–6 weeks after emergence, weeds are the main competitors of potatoes. They take away nitrogen, water, and light, reducing tuber set. If they are not removed before flowering, yield losses can reach 30–50% (Burke & Everman, 2013; Jabran et al., 2023). Moreover, weeds that have produced seeds will contaminate the soil for years to come.

How to do it right. Carry out two weedings (or inter-row treatments): the first 2–3 weeks after emergence, the second—2–3 weeks before flowering, combined with hilling. After the rows close, weeds are no longer as dangerous, but if tall ones appear (sow thistle, bindweed), remove them selectively to prevent seeding (Burke & Everman, 2013; Kemble, 2022).

Mistake #5. Watering by Schedule, Not by Need

How it manifests. The gardener waters the potatoes once a week "out of habit," without checking soil moisture. As a result, in hot weather, the soil dries out, and in rainy weather, it becomes waterlogged.

Why it is harmful. Potatoes are sensitive to both lack and excess of water. When the soil dries out, tubers stop growing, forming small and misshapen tubers, increasing the risk of "translucent end" (Translucent end)—when the tip of the tuber becomes glassy and unsuitable for storage and processing (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020). When waterlogged, roots suffocate, the risk of fungal diseases increases (late blight, rhizoctoniosis), and tubers can rot directly in the ground (Dean, 1994).

How to do it right. Water only when the soil at a depth of 15–20 cm starts to dry out (check by hand or with a stick). In hot weather, watering may be needed 1–2 times a week at 20–30 l/m² (depending on soil type). It is better to water rarely but deeply so that water saturates the root zone. In rainy weather, reduce watering or cancel it altogether. Water by sprinkling in the morning or evening so that the leaves dry before night (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

Mistake #6. Excess or Lack of Nitrogen

How it manifests. Applying large amounts of fresh manure or over-fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers causes vigorous foliage growth at the expense of tubers. Conversely, on poor soils without fertilization, the foliage is pale, and tubers are small.

Why it is harmful. Excess nitrogen stimulates vegetative growth but delays tuberization. Tubers set later, grow small, and starch content decreases (Navarre & Pavek, 2020; Swiader, 1992). Nitrogen deficiency, on the contrary, leads to premature leaf aging, and tubers do not gain mass. In addition, excess nitrogen can lead to nitrate accumulation in tubers, which is harmful to health (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

How to do it right. Apply nitrogen moderately. On medium-fertility soil, 50–100 g of active ingredient per 100 m² (in terms of urea or ammonium nitrate) is enough—about one matchbox per 1 m². It is better to split nitrogen into two applications: the first—at planting (in the hole or furrow), and the second—2–3 weeks after emergence, 1–2 weeks before the first hilling. Apply organic matter (manure, compost) only well-rotted and preferably in autumn for digging, not in spring. During tuberization, stop nitrogen fertilization to avoid stimulating foliage growth (Navarre & Pavek, 2020; Dean, 1994).

Mistake #7. Ignoring Diseases and Pests in Care

How it manifests. The gardener notices signs of late blight or Colorado potato beetle only when the damage is already widespread. Measures are taken too late.

Why it is harmful. Diseases and pests can destroy a crop in a few days. Late blight is especially dangerous in rainy summers—it affects not only foliage but also tubers, making them unfit for storage (Jong et al., 2011). The Colorado potato beetle also multiplies quickly and can completely eat the foliage.

How to do it right. Include prevention in your care routine:

• Regularly inspect plantings (every 3–5 days).
• At the first signs of late blight (brown spots on lower leaves), apply approved fungicides (Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, mancozeb-based preparations, etc.) or, in organic farming, biofungicides (Jong et al., 2011; Kemble, 2022).
• Against Colorado potato beetle, use hand collection (on small plots), or insecticides (e.g., preparations based on imidacloprid, thiamethoxam—but strictly according to instructions, no later than 20–30 days before harvest) (Burke & Everman, 2013).
• Remove and burn plant residues after harvest to reduce the infection load and overwintering pests.

Mistake #8. Excessive Zeal: Removing Flowers and Suckering

How it manifests. The gardener spends hours picking off flowers and buds, as well as removing side shoots (suckering), believing this will increase the yield.

Why it is harmful. As we have already discussed in detail in the previous chapter, removing flowers does not provide a significant yield increase, and suckering in potatoes is generally not practiced—the plant does not form typical suckers like tomatoes. Any unnecessary mechanical manipulation injures plants and wastes time that is better spent on watering, weeding, or disease prevention (Jong et al., 2011; Navarre & Pavek, 2020).

How to do it right. Leave the flowers alone. Instead, provide the plants with sufficient nutrition and moisture—this will have a real effect.

Mistake #9. Planting in the Same Place for Several Years in a Row

How it manifests. The gardener plants potatoes in the same plot year after year because "it is convenient."

Why it is harmful. Monoculture leads to the accumulation of pathogens (late blight, rhizoctoniosis, scab, gall nematodes) and pests (wireworms, Colorado potato beetle) in the soil, as well as soil depletion, especially of potassium and phosphorus. Yields decrease every year (Burke & Everman, 2013; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

How to do it right. Practice crop rotation: return potatoes to the same place no earlier than after 3–4 years. Use legumes (peas, beans, clover), cereals (oats, barley), green manures (mustard, lupine, phacelia) as predecessors. This reduces the disease background and restores soil fertility (Burke & Everman, 2013; Jabran et al., 2023).

Mistake #10. Ignoring Pre-Planting Soil Preparation

How it manifests. In spring, the gardener simply digs over the plot without adding organic matter and without deep loosening. As a result, the soil is compacted, roots develop poorly, and tubers are small and misshapen.

Why it is harmful. Potatoes are demanding of soil looseness. In dense soil, tubers become deformed, cannot gain mass, and suffer from oxygen deficiency (Swiader, 1992; Navarre & Pavek, 2020). In addition, moisture is less well retained in dense soil.

How to do it right. Prepare the soil in autumn: add well-rotted manure or compost (3–5 kg/m²), dig to a depth of 25–30 cm, removing weed rhizomes (especially quackgrass). In spring, loosen again to a depth of 15–20 cm, breaking up large clods. For heavy soils, it is advisable to add sand (a bucket per 1–2 m²) or peat (for structure) (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Summary Table of Mistakes and Correct Solutions