Shaping and pruning

1.1. Regulating Growth and Balancing Roots and Canopy

Cherry is a crop with vigorous growth, especially when young. When planting a sapling, its root system is severely damaged, while the above-ground part remains the same. If pruning is not performed, the natural balance between the roots and the canopy is disrupted: the roots cannot supply nutrients to all the shoots. This leads to a weakened tree, poor survival rates, and delayed fruiting (Potapov et al., 2000).

How it works: Pruning stimulates the awakening of dormant buds and enhances the growth of new shoots. When we shorten branches, we reduce the number of "consumers" of nutrients, allowing the remaining buds to receive more nourishment. This activates the growth of absorbing roots and promotes the formation of a fibrous root system, which better supplies the tree with moisture and minerals (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Why it's important: Without pruning, the cherry tree expends its energy on excessive shoot growth at the expense of fruit bud formation. By regulating growth, we direct the tree's energy towards crop production rather than useless green mass.

1.2. Canopy Illumination: The Foundation of Health and Fruit Quality

Cherry trees are light-loving plants. For flower bud formation and fruit ripening, leaves need to receive at least 70–100% of sunlight (Krivko, 2014). In a dense canopy, the inner and lower branches are shaded. Leaves there do not photosynthesize but rather "parasitize"—they consume nutrients without contributing to the yield.

Consequences of poor illumination:

• Fruit-bearing structures (bouquet branches, ringlets) die off.
• Fruits become small and pale-colored.
• Their sugar content and flavor deteriorate.
• The formation of new fruit buds decreases or stops altogether (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Goal of pruning: To create a canopy with an open center and evenly distributed branches, allowing sunlight to penetrate all its parts. The optimal tree height for cherry is 2–3 m for bush varieties and up to 3.5 m for tree varieties. At this height, all branches receive enough light, and the gardener can easily care for the tree and harvest the fruit (Tarasov, 1981).

1.3. Yield: What Determines Fruiting Stability

In cherries, unlike apple trees, fruiting is concentrated on one-year-old growth (in bush varieties) and on bouquet branches (in tree varieties). When growth weakens, shoot length decreases to 15–20 cm, and flower buds cease to form on them (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

How pruning increases yield:

1. Stimulation of new growth. By shortening branches, we encourage the development of strong one-year-old shoots, which will bear the future crop.

2. Prevention of alternate bearing. Without pruning, cherries often bear fruit every other year: one year abundantly, the next almost nothing. Regular pruning balances the load and ensures annual yields.

3. Combination of old and young branches. A properly formed canopy should contain branches of different ages—from 1 to 6–8 years old. This guarantees that each year some branches will bear fruit while others prepare for fruiting (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Important fact: In bush cherry varieties (e.g., Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya), the bulk of the crop is formed on the previous year's growth. Without annual rejuvenation, fruiting quickly shifts to the periphery of the canopy, leaving the center bare (Tarasov, 1981).

1.4. Extending the Tree's Life: Combating Aging

The lifespan of a cherry tree is 15–25 years, but its productive period is significantly shorter. Causes of aging include:

• Gradual dieback of fruit-bearing structures (bouquet branches, spurs).
• Bare branches due to the death of lateral shoots.
• Accumulation of diseased, dry, and damaged branches.

How pruning prolongs life:

1. Rejuvenation pruning. When growth length decreases to 15–20 cm, pruning back to 2–3-year-old wood awakens dormant buds and gives a powerful boost for new shoot growth. The tree gains a "second youth" (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2. Sanitary pruning. Removing dry, diseased, and broken branches prevents the spread of diseases (coccomycosis, moniliosis) and pests. Clean wounds heal faster, and the tree does not waste energy fighting infections.

3. Thinning. Removing overcrowding branches improves canopy aeration, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. This is especially important in regions with a humid climate (Potapov et al., 2000).

Note: For own-rooted (ungrafted) cherries, the tree can be rejuvenated using suckers—leave 2–3 strong shoots from the root and form new branches from them. In grafted cherries, suckers are removed as they belong to the rootstock and do not produce quality fruit (Tarasov, 1981).

Chapter summary:

Pruning cherry trees is not just "trimming" but a system of measures that:

• Regulates growth, directing energy towards fruiting.
• Provides light to all parts of the canopy, improving fruit quality.
• Guarantees annual and stable yields.
• Extends the productive life of the tree by 10–15 years.

In the next chapter, we will analyze the structure of the cherry tree—this knowledge will help you understand what exactly and how to prune to help the plant, not harm it.

2.1. Central Leader (Trunk)

The central leader is the main vertical trunk of the tree, from which all scaffold branches originate. It serves as the "axis" of the entire canopy and performs two key functions:

• Support. The leader bears the entire weight of the scaffold branches, leaves, and fruit. The strength of its connection to the roots and scaffold branches determines the tree's longevity.
• Transport. Water and minerals move up from the roots to the canopy through it, while products of photosynthesis (sugars, amino acids) move down from the leaves to the roots.

What a gardener needs to know:

• In tree-type cherry varieties (e.g., Anadolskaya, Zhukovskaya), the central leader is maintained throughout the tree's life and can reach heights of 4–6 m. It gives the canopy a pyramidal or rounded shape (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• In bush-type cherry varieties (e.g., Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya), the central leader is less pronounced: it is often absent or dies off quickly, and the canopy forms from several equal-sized trunks arising from the ground. Such trees have a bush-like form and do not exceed 2.5–3 m in height (Tarasov, 1981).

Practical takeaway: When forming a tree-type cherry, we purposefully create and maintain a strong central leader, subordinating all scaffold branches to it. In the bush form, we limit height and make the canopy more spreading to facilitate harvesting.

2.2. Scaffold Branches (First-Order Branches)

Scaffold branches are the largest branches that originate directly from the central leader (or from the base of the bush in bush forms). They form the canopy framework and determine its shape and strength.

Characteristics of cherry scaffold branches:

• In tree varieties, there are usually 5–6, arranged in whorls or singly on the leader with intervals of 10–15 cm (Tarasov, 1981).
• In bush varieties, there can be up to 10–15, originating from the ground and having roughly equal growth vigor.
• Scaffold branches bear all other branches—secondary scaffolds, lateral shoots, and fruit-bearing structures.

Why the branch angle is critical: Branches growing at an acute angle (less than 45°) to the trunk do not fuse well with it. Under the weight of fruit, they can break off, leaving deep wounds that heal slowly and serve as entry points for infections. When forming the canopy, aim to keep branches with an angle of at least 45–50° (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Practical takeaway: During pruning, we remove branches with sharp angles, as well as those growing inward or rubbing against each other. We keep 5–8 well-placed scaffold branches evenly distributed around the trunk.

2.3. Secondary Scaffold Branches (Second and Third-Order Branches)

Secondary scaffold branches originate from the main scaffold branches. They are thinner and shorter but play an important role in filling the canopy volume and creating the fruiting zone. Their length usually does not exceed 1.5–2 m, and they do not compete in vigor with the main scaffold branches.

Why they are needed:

• They support the bulk of the fruiting wood—short branches where fruit directly sets.
• They provide "flexibility" to the canopy: removing some secondary branches can open light to the center of the tree without removing large scaffolds.

Practical takeaway: When forming the canopy, we limit the number of branching orders: it's better to have 2–3 orders than many small branches that overcrowd the canopy (Krivko, 2014). During pruning, shorten secondary branches to an outward or lateral bud to direct their growth appropriately and prevent shading.

2.4. Fruiting Wood (Fruit-Bearing Structures)

This is the most important part of the tree for fruiting—small branches located on the scaffold and secondary branches. Flower buds set here, and the crop forms. The fruiting wood of a cherry tree consists of three main types:

2.5. How the Structure Differs Between Tree-Type and Bush-Type Cherries

These two types of cherries have fundamentally different canopy architectures and fruiting strategies.

Practical takeaway: Before picking up the pruners, determine which type your cherry belongs to. For bush-type varieties, it is unacceptable to heavily shorten one-year-old growth—you will remove the future crop. For tree-type varieties, it's important to preserve bouquet branches, only removing old, spent, or overcrowding ones (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2.6. What Does Knowing the Tree's Structure Give the Gardener?

Understanding the internal arrangement of a cherry tree allows you to:

1. Choose the right pruning goals. You will know what to remove (crowding branches, sharp angles) and what to keep (bouquet branches, strong scaffolds).

2. Predict the tree's response. If you know that bush-type cherries bear fruit on last year's growth, then spring pruning should be minimal, or you will lose that year's crop.

3. Assess the tree's condition. Bare scaffolds, lack of bouquet branches, short growth—signals for rejuvenation pruning.

4. Prolong productive life. Regular renewal of secondary branches and fruit-bearing structures prevents the canopy from aging and growing too tall, and keeps the fruit from shrinking.

In the next chapter, we move to practice: how to form a young tree so it grows correctly from the first years and rewards you with stable yields.

3.1. Why the First Years Are the Most Important

During the 5–6 years after planting, the main scaffold branches of the cherry tree are established, which will determine the tree's shape and size for life. The gardener's task during this period is not just to let the tree grow "as it wants," but to consciously direct its development (Tarasov, 1981).

Goals for forming a young tree:

1. Create a strong framework—branches must be well-fused with the trunk and each other to withstand the weight of the crop without props and breakage.

2. Ensure uniform illumination—all parts of the canopy must receive enough light, otherwise, fruiting structures inside the canopy will die.

3. Limit height—the tree should be convenient for care and harvesting. The optimal height for cherries is 3–3.5 m for tree-type and 2–2.5 m for bush-type forms (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

4. Accelerate the onset of fruiting—a properly formed tree starts bearing fruit 1–2 years earlier than a neglected one (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Important warning: In the first 3–4 years after planting, the main focus is on forming the framework, not on getting a harvest. Therefore, it is best to remove any flowers that appear on the young tree—they consume energy needed for growth and branching. An exception can be made for 1–2 fruits to sample the variety (Potapov et al., 2000).

3.2. Choosing the Canopy Shape: Which Type Suits Your Cherry?

All cherry varieties are divided into two main groups based on their growth and fruiting type, and each group has its own formation system. Before picking up the pruners, determine which group your tree belongs to.

3.3. Forming Tree-Type Cherries (Open-Center Canopy)

This system is most common for tree-type varieties and provides a strong, well-lit canopy.

3.4. Forming Bush-Type Cherries

Bush-type varieties require a different approach. Their canopy consists of 8–15 equal-strength branches originating from the ground or a very short trunk (20–30 cm).

3.5. General Principles of Formation for Any Variety

Regardless of the cherry type, there are several universal rules:

1. Trunk height. In the middle zone of Russia and northern regions, a low trunk of 30–40 cm is recommended. In southern regions, up to 50–60 cm is acceptable. A low trunk protects the tree from sunburn and frost cracks (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

2. Removal of root suckers. For grafted cherries (which is most of them), all suckers from the roots belong to the rootstock and do not produce the variety's fruit. Remove them as early as possible, cutting them at ground level, capturing the bark ring at the shoot's base (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

3. Correcting sharp angles. Cherry branches often grow at sharp angles, posing a risk of breakage. In young trees, such angles can be corrected using spreaders—inserting a wooden slat between the trunk and branch, or tying the branch to the trunk to deflect it. If the angle cannot be corrected, remove the branch (Tarasov, 1981).

4. Limiting branching orders. The canopy should not have more than two or three orders of branching. Excessive branching leads to crowding and reduced illumination. Remove extra branches instead of shortening them (Krivko, 2014).

5. Regularity. Formation is a 4–6-year process. Each spring, check the canopy, remove competitors, adjust angles, and monitor growth balance.

3.6. Features of Formation in Different Climatic Zones

Although general formation principles are universal, climate introduces its own adjustments:

• Southern regions (North Caucasus, southern Ukraine, Mediterranean). Higher trunk (50–60 cm), sparse canopy to avoid sunburn. Formation ends faster—in 3–4 years, as growth is more vigorous (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Middle zone of Russia (Moscow Oblast, Central Chernozem region). Low trunk (30–40 cm), more compact canopy. Important not to delay pruning—spring is short, and delaying can cause gumosis. In regions with harsh winters, bush forms are preferred as they are easier to cover with snow (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).
• Northern regions (Urals, Siberia, Far East). Use creeping (prostrate) forms or very low-trunk bush canopies that are completely covered by snow in winter. Trunk—no more than 15–20 cm. Pruning is minimal—mainly removing dry and damaged branches. The main emphasis is on annual rejuvenation (Tarasov, 1981).

3.7. Typical Mistakes When Forming Young Cherries

1. Excessive pruning in the first years. Many gardeners fear a "large" canopy and heavily shorten all branches. This delays fruiting by 1–2 years and leads to the formation of water sprouts—vertical, vigorous shoots that overcrowd the canopy and do not bear fruit.

2. Leaving too many scaffold branches. For tree varieties, leave no more than 5–6; for bush varieties, up to 10–12. More leads to shading and weakening of all branches.

3. Ignoring the branch angle. Leaving a branch with a sharp angle will cause it to break under the weight of the first decent crop. This is not only the loss of a branch but also a serious wound through which diseases can enter the tree.

4. Late pruning. Pruning young trees should only be done in early spring, before bud break. Autumn pruning in the middle zone and northern regions weakens the tree before winter.

5. Removing all annual growth from bush-type varieties. Remember: the crop of bush-type cherries is on last year's growth! Short pruning will deprive you of the current year's crop.

In the next chapter, we will move from formation to regular maintenance pruning of an adult fruiting tree—how to maintain its productivity for many years.

4.1. Thinning—Light and Air for the Canopy

Thinning is the removal of entire branches at their base ("on the ring"). No stubs are left, and the wound heals quickly (Krivko, 2014).

Which branches are removed during thinning:

1. Overcrowding. Branches growing into the canopy, crossing, or rubbing against each other. They not only interfere but also create wounds where infections can enter.

2. Weak and low-yielding. Branches with few or no fruit-bearing structures, or those that are bare.

3. Diseased, dry, broken. This is essentially sanitary pruning, which can be done throughout the season.

4. Competitors. For tree varieties—shoots growing almost vertically and trying to replace the central leader. For bush varieties—overly strong branches that suppress their neighbors.

5. Branches with sharp angles. If you didn't correct them when the tree was young, it's better to remove them now before they break under the weight of fruit (Tarasov, 1981).

Why do this:

• Improves illumination of the inner canopy parts where fruit buds set.
• Enhances air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases (coccomycosis, moniliosis)—especially important in rainy regions.
• Nutrients are directed to the remaining fruit-bearing branches, fruits become larger and sweeter.
• Facilitates pesticide application and harvesting—branches are not intertwined, and all parts of the canopy are accessible (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Features for different cherry types:

• For tree-type varieties, thinning is the primary method of maintenance pruning. Removing 1–2 large overcrowding branches per year noticeably improves the light regime. Old bouquet branches don't need to be removed—they are long-lived and productive for up to 10–12 years (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• For bush-type varieties, thinning is also important, but it is combined with the removal of branches that have finished fruiting (see section 4.3). Since branches age quickly, they need to be cut out more often—every 3–4 years.

Technique: The cut should go exactly along the branch collar—the swelling at the branch's base. Do not leave stubs—they won't heal and can become a source of rot. Do not cut too deep, damaging the trunk bark—this slows healing (Krivko, 2014).

4.2. Heading Back—Stimulus for Growth and Renewal

Heading back is the removal of a portion of a branch. Unlike thinning, it leaves buds that will produce new shoots. Heading back is used for two main purposes:

1. To stimulate the growth of new shoots on aging branches.

2. To direct growth in the desired direction (e.g., to an outward bud to widen the canopy).

When and how to head back:

• For bush-type varieties, one-year-old growth longer than 50 cm is lightly headed back—only by 1/4–1/3 of its length. This stimulates branching and increases the number of fruit buds. Short pruning (to 2–3 buds) is undesirable—it removes the future crop (Tarasov, 1981).
• For tree-type varieties, heading back is used less frequently, mainly for branch subordination—to maintain the leader's dominance. If growth exceeds 50–60 cm, it can be shortened by 1/3, cutting to an outward bud (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).
• General rule: only head back branches with strong growth (over 40–50 cm). Do not head back weak growth (less than 20 cm)—they already carry fruit buds, and pruning would remove them (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Effect of heading back: After the cut, the top bud produces a strong continuation shoot, while the lower buds produce weaker lateral shoots. Thus, we "force" the branch to branch and grow new fruit-bearing structures, preventing it from becoming bare (Potapov et al., 2000).

Important! Heading back on cherries, especially bush-type varieties, should be used cautiously. Unlike apples, where short pruning stimulates fruiting, in cherries it often causes severe overcrowding and reduces the current year's yield. The main focus in cherry maintenance pruning is on thinning, not heading back (Tarasov, 1981).

4.3. Regulating Fruiting—Managing Load and Aging

This section combines several techniques aimed at ensuring the tree produces an annual and quality yield without overloading or alternate bearing.

4.4. How Often and When to Do Maintenance Pruning

• Annually, ideally in early spring (before bud break). The exception is sanitary pruning (diseased, dry branches), which is done as needed.
• For tree-type varieties, one annual pruning (in spring) is sufficient. Thinning combined with light heading back gives good results.
• For bush-type varieties, summer pruning is sometimes practiced (immediately after harvest) to remove spent branches and give young shoots more light and space until autumn (Tarasov, 1981).

Important: In regions with cold winters (Middle zone, Urals, Siberia), maintenance pruning is done only in spring, after the threat of severe frost has passed. Autumn pruning in such regions weakens the tree before winter and increases the risk of frost damage (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

4.5. Typical Mistakes in Maintenance Pruning

1. Removing too many branches at once. This causes vigorous growth of water sprouts (vigorous shoots) that overcrowd the canopy and don't bear fruit. It's better to remove a little each year.

2. Neglecting thinning in favor of heading back. For cherries, especially bush-type, thinning is more important than heading back. Heading back often leads to overcrowding and shifts fruiting to the periphery.

3. Not removing spent branches on bush-type varieties. They clutter the canopy, shade young shoots, and become a source of disease.

4. Too much heading back of annual growth. On bush-type varieties, this removes the current year's crop.

5. Ignoring sanitary pruning. Dry and diseased branches are a source of infection; they should be removed immediately, without waiting for spring.

Chapter summary:

Maintenance pruning of cherries is a system of annual, primarily thinning interventions that ensures:

• Uniform illumination of the entire canopy.
• Regular renewal of fruiting wood.
• Annual fruiting without sharp declines.
• A long productive life for the tree.

Key techniques: removal of overcrowding, weak, dry branches; rejuvenation of aging parts; regulating the load of flower buds. The emphasis differs for tree-type and bush-type varieties—remember this when approaching each tree.

In the next chapter, we will cover the most radical, but sometimes necessary, stage—rejuvenation pruning of old trees, when regular maintenance pruning is no longer sufficient.

5.1. When Is Rejuvenation Pruning Necessary?

As it ages, shoot growth in cherry trees inevitably slows down. This is a natural process, but if not corrected, it leads to an irreversible decline in productivity.

Main signs of an aging tree:

1. Annual shoot length decreases to 15–20 cm or less. This is a key indicator. As long as growth stays at 30–40 cm, the tree can bear fruit without rejuvenation. When it becomes shorter than 20 cm, fruit buds cease to form on them, and yield drops sharply (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2. Bare branches. On old branches, bouquet branches and fruit-bearing structures die off, leaving the branches "naked" for a significant length. Fruiting shifts to the periphery, to the tips of the branches (Tarasov, 1981).

3. Small and pale leaves. An aging tree cannot provide enough nutrition to its leaves; they become small and lose their rich green color.

4. Shrinking fruit and declining yield. Even if there are many fruits, they become small, sour, and less aromatic.

5. Appearance of dry, dying branches. This is an advanced stage where part of the canopy begins to die (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Age when rejuvenation is usually required:

Important! Do not delay rejuvenation pruning until the tree has completely stopped growing. It's better to do it 1–2 years earlier than a year later. A weakened tree may not survive severe intervention (Potapov et al., 2000).

5.2. Basic Principles of Rejuvenation Pruning

Rejuvenation is not just heavy pruning. It's a systematic approach requiring knowledge of cherry biology and patience. Too drastic an intervention can kill the tree.

5.3. Restoring Fruiting After Rejuvenation

Rejuvenation pruning is stressful for the tree. To help it recover successfully and start yielding again, ensure good care in the following 2–3 years.

What needs to be done:

1. Enhanced nutrition. In the year of rejuvenation and the following season, increase the dose of nitrogen and complex fertilizers by 30–40% compared to the usual rate. This helps the tree grow new shoots. In spring—urea or ammonium nitrate (40–50 g per 10 L of water, applied to the roots or foliage). In autumn—phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for wood ripening (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

2. Ample watering. After rejuvenation, the root system experiences increased stress. Regular watering (at least once every 10–14 days in dry weather) helps the tree recover faster.

3. Mulching the tree circle. A layer of compost or well-rotted manure (5–8 cm) retains moisture and provides additional nutrition.

4. Removing excess shoots. After rejuvenation, many water sprouts often appear—strong vertical shoots. Some can be used to form new branches, but most should be removed to prevent canopy crowding. Keep 2–3 of the strongest and best-placed ones on each branch, and remove the rest while they are young and soft (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

5. Crop load regulation. In the first year after rejuvenation (sometimes the second as well), remove some flowers or young fruit. Let the tree spend its energy on restoring the canopy, not on producing fruit. The yield will return in the 2nd–3rd year, but it will be of higher quality.

What to expect: 2–3 years after rejuvenation, the tree should produce vigorous growth of 40–60 cm. This indicates successful recovery. In subsequent years, yield will gradually increase and reach previous (or even higher) levels.

5.4. Features of Rejuvenation in Different Climatic Zones

Climate affects the timing and intensity of rejuvenation:

• Southern regions (North Caucasus, Kuban, Crimea). Rejuvenation can be done in late winter—early spring (February–March), and also in autumn after leaf fall. Growth is more vigorous here, so rejuvenation is done more often (every 5–7 years), but less drastically (Krivko, 2014).
• Middle zone (Moscow, Voronezh, Saratov oblasts). Only early spring (March–April, before bud break). Autumn rejuvenation is dangerous: wounds won't heal before frost. Rejuvenation is recommended every 5–8 years, depending on the tree's condition (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).
• Northern regions (Urals, Siberia, Far East). Rejuvenation is done only in spring, after the threat of severe frost has passed (April–May). In these regions, rejuvenation is often replaced by completely replacing the old bush with a new one, as cherries are less long-lived there (Tarasov, 1981). For own-rooted varieties, rejuvenation using root suckers is practiced—leave 2–3 strong shoots from the root and form a new bush from them.

5.5. When Rejuvenation Is Useless

Rejuvenation pruning is effective only if the tree is healthy and its root system is still viable. In some cases, it cannot be helped:

• More than 70% of the canopy is dry or damaged by disease (especially coccomycosis, moniliosis). Such a tree will not recover.
• Deep cracks and frost cracks on the trunk and scaffold branches, causing gumosis. This indicates critical weakening.
• The tree's age exceeds 25–30 years (for bush-types) or 35–40 years (for tree-types). Even with rejuvenation, the productive period will be very short, and it's better to replace the tree.

In these cases, the only sensible solution is uprooting and planting a new sapling (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Chapter summary:

Rejuvenation pruning is a powerful tool that can extend the life and yield of an old cherry tree by 10–15 years. Its main principles are:

• Gradualness—spread over 2–3 years.
• Pruning to the zone of strong growth (2–5-year-old wood).
• "Transfer" cut to a lateral branch.
• Protection of large wounds with grafting wax.
• Enhanced care after rejuvenation (watering, fertilizing, removing water sprouts).

Rejuvenation is particularly effective for bush-type varieties with their system of annual branch replacement. For tree-type varieties, it's a rarer but necessary procedure to rejuvenate the canopy and restore its productivity.

In the next chapter, we will discuss the timing of pruning—when exactly to use the pruners and how climate influences the choice of time.

6.1. Spring Pruning—The Main and Safest Time

For cherries, as for most stone fruits, spring pruning is the primary and preferred method. It is done during the dormant period, but after the threat of severe frost has passed.

Optimal timing:

• In southern regions (North Caucasus, Kuban, Crimea)—late February to March, before bud swelling.
• In the middle zone of Russia (Moscow, Voronezh, Saratov oblasts)—late March to early April, before bud break.
• In northern regions (Urals, Siberia, Far East)—April to early May, after severe frosts have passed (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Why spring is the best time:

1. Minimal risk of gumosis. Stone fruits (cherry, sweet cherry, plum) commonly suffer from excessive gum exudation. Spring pruning, done before sap flow begins, gives wounds time to dry and start healing before the active movement of sap. Pruning during or after sap flow increases gumosis (Tarasov, 1981).

2. Good visibility. In winter, when leaves have fallen, the entire canopy structure is clearly visible—which branches are overcrowding, which are dry, and where adjustments are needed. In spring, before bud break, the picture remains clear.

3. Fast healing. In spring, with the start of the growing season, cambium cell division activates, and wounds heal faster than with autumn pruning. By summer, the cuts are already covered with callus (tissue swellings) (Potapov et al., 2000).

4. No winter damage. If you prune a branch in winter during severe frost, the wood becomes brittle, the cut is jagged, and the tissues around the wound freeze. Such wounds heal poorly. Spring pruning at positive temperatures gives a clean cut that heals quickly (Krivko, 2014).

5. Ability to assess frost damage. If the winter was harsh and some buds or branches froze, spring pruning allows you to accurately determine the extent of the damage. If you prune immediately after winter, you might accidentally remove live tissue while leaving damaged parts. Experienced gardeners recommend waiting until bud break to see which branches didn't wake up (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Important addition: For cherries, unlike apples, very early pruning in late winter is not recommended. Young trees in all zones should only be pruned in spring, closer to the start of the growing season. For stone fruits, cold and wet weather at the time of pruning is undesirable—it increases gumosis (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

6.2. Summer Pruning—An Additional and Corrective Stage

Summer pruning of cherries is used less frequently in Russian horticulture than spring pruning, but in certain cases, it is very useful. Its main task is not to stimulate growth, but to slow it down, directing energy towards fruiting.

When and why to do summer pruning:

1. After harvest (July–August). For bush-type varieties, this is the time to remove spent branches. While they remain on the tree, they shade young shoots and interfere with fruit bud set for the next year. Removing them immediately after harvest gives young shoots more light until autumn (Tarasov, 1981).

2. In a low-yielding year (June). Summer thinning of overcrowding branches helps reduce the setting of excess flower buds, thereby preventing the alternation of "on" and "off" years. This is a way to level out alternate bearing (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

3. Pinching (summer tipping) of young shoots (June). If a shoot is growing too vigorously and vertically, pinch its tip (remove 5–10 cm). This stops growth and stimulates the formation of lateral shoots and fruit buds. The operation reduces the volume of winter pruning and accelerates the onset of fruiting (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Features of summer pruning:

• It's more "softer" than spring pruning. Mainly thin, green shoots are removed.
• It is not recommended to remove large branches in summer—wounds heal worse than spring ones.
• In regions with cold winters (Middle zone, Siberia, Urals), summer pruning should only be done until mid-July. Late pruning stimulates the growth of new shoots that won't ripen before frost and will freeze (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).
• For tree-type varieties, summer pruning is used less often than for bush-types. Spring pruning is usually sufficient for tree-types.

Effect of summer pruning:

• Reduces leaf surface area, thus decreasing water evaporation during dry periods.
• Improves fruit lighting; they ripen faster and color better.
• Stimulates fruit bud set for the following year (Krivko, 2014).

6.3. Autumn Pruning—Permissible but Risky

Autumn pruning of cherries is a topic debated among gardeners. Most guides do not recommend it, especially for northern and middle regions.

When autumn pruning is still possible:

• In southern regions (North Caucasus, Crimea, Krasnodar Krai), where winters are mild and short, autumn pruning is acceptable. It is done after leaf fall, in October–November, before the onset of stable frost. It was previously used for pruning the most winter-hardy varieties (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Why autumn pruning is undesirable in most regions:

1. Wounds don't have time to heal before frost. During autumn pruning, the cambium is no longer active, and wounds remain open until spring. Frost can damage the tissues around the cut, and unhealed wounds allow infections to enter (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2. Increased gumosis. Sap flow hasn't completely stopped in autumn, and pruning can provoke excessive gum exudation, weakening the tree before winter.

3. Reduced winter hardiness. Removing part of the canopy in autumn reduces the tree's stored nutrients for winter. This makes the cherry more vulnerable to frost (Potapov et al., 2000).

If autumn pruning is unavoidable (e.g., a broken branch):

• Do it as early as possible, in late September–early October, to give the tree time to heal.
• Seal all cuts larger than 1 cm in diameter with grafting wax.
• Limit yourself to removing only dry, diseased, or broken branches. Leave formative and rejuvenation pruning for spring.

6.4. Timing Features for Different Climatic Zones

The choice of pruning time directly depends on your region's climate. What works in the south can kill a tree in Siberia.

Southern zone (North Caucasus, Kuban, Crimea, southern Ukraine):

• Main time: late February–March (before bud break).
• Additional time: autumn (October–November) for the most winter-hardy varieties.
• Winter pruning: permissible during thaws at temperatures not below –8 °C. In stronger frosts, wood becomes brittle, and cuts are uneven.
• Feature: Spring comes early, so don't delay pruning. As soon as the threat of severe frost has passed (usually in February–March), start working (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Middle zone of Russia (Moscow, Voronezh, Saratov, Samara oblasts):

• Main time: late March–April (before bud break).
• Summer pruning: permissible in June–July (until mid-July).
• Autumn pruning: not recommended.
• Feature: Spring is short, so pruning must be done in a tight timeframe. If you delay, buds will start to open, and pruning will cause severe gumosis. If winter was harsh and the tree froze, postpone pruning until bud break to accurately determine damage boundaries (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Northern zone (Urals, Siberia, Far East):

• Main time: April–early May, after the threat of severe frost has passed.
• Summer pruning: only until mid-July.
• Autumn pruning: categorically not recommended.
• Feature: Harsh winters require special caution. When pruning, leave protective stubs 6–15 cm long to protect buds from freezing. Remove these stubs after 1–2 years. In these regions, low-trunk bush forms are preferred and pruned minimally (Tarasov, 1981).

Brief pruning timing table by zone:

6.5. Special Case: Pruning Frost-Damaged Trees

Winter damage to cherries is common in regions with cold winters. Frost can damage wood and buds, and spring frosts can damage flowers and fruit sets. How to prune such a tree?

Rules for pruning frost-damaged cherries:

1. Don't rush. If the tree is frozen, don't prune it immediately after winter. Wait until the start of the growing season (late April–early May), when new shoots emerge from dormant buds on healthy parts of the branches. This will make the damage boundaries clearly visible (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2. Prune back to healthy tissue. Shorten each damaged branch to the first normally developing shoot, directed upward or obliquely upward. Remove all wood that didn't produce shoots.

3. Protect large wounds. Immediately seal cut ends larger than 1 cm with grafting wax to prevent drying and cracking.

4. For bush-type varieties, use root suckers. If the above-ground part is severely damaged but the root system is alive, leave 2–3 strong sucker shoots and form a new bush from them (Tarasov, 1981).

Frost damage can be assessed in advance: Cut several branches from the tree (in late February–early March), place them in water at room temperature, and observe how buds open. If buds don't open or open partially, there is damage. This helps assess the extent of the problem before active growth begins (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

6.6. General Recommendations on Pruning Timing

1. At planting. Planting pruning is done before the first growing season. For autumn planting, this is done in early spring; for spring planting, immediately on planting day or the next day (Potapov et al., 2000).

2. Formative pruning. In southern regions—autumn or early spring (before bud swelling). In northern regions—only spring, after frosts have stopped.

3. Regulatory (maintenance) pruning. In the south, can be done in autumn, winter (during thaws), and early spring. In northern regions—only early spring.

4. Rejuvenation pruning. Always in spring, before sap flow starts. If delayed, results will be poorer—recovery shoots will be weak.

5. Sanitary pruning (removing dry, diseased, broken branches)—at any convenient time, but preferably in spring. It is especially important to remove diseased branches to prevent disease spread (Krivko, 2014).

Remember: Cherries, like other stone fruits, react poorly to pruning in cold and wet weather. This increases gumosis. Always choose a dry, relatively warm day for the work. After pruning, seal large wounds (diameter > 1 cm) with grafting wax.

Chapter summary:

Choosing the pruning time depends on three main factors: the climatic zone, the tree's condition, and the type of pruning.

• Spring—the optimal time for most types of pruning in all regions.
• Summer—an additional time for growth correction and removal of spent branches (especially for bush-type varieties).
• Autumn—only permissible in the south; not recommended in northern regions.
• Winter—only possible in southern regions during thaws, at temperatures not below –8 °C.

The main rule: do not prune cherries in rainy or cold weather, especially during sap flow. It's best to prune on a dry, warm spring day when wounds will heal quickly and the risk of gumosis is minimal.

In the next, final chapter, we will cover typical mistakes in forming and pruning cherry trees—so you can avoid them and achieve the best results.

7.1. Excessive Pruning (Severe Heading Back)

The mistake: The gardener heavily shortens annual growth (leaving 2–3 buds) or removes too many branches at once.

Why it's harmful:

1. For bush-type varieties (Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya, Turgenevka), most of the crop sets on the previous year's annual growth. Severe heading back removes this growth, and the tree loses most of the current year's yield (Tarasov, 1981).

2. In all varieties, excessive pruning causes vigorous growth of water sprouts—vertical, non-fruiting shoots that overcrowd the canopy and consume nutrients (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

3. Weakening the tree. After heavy pruning, gumosis often appears on the trunk and thick branches, and infections (coccomycosis, moniliosis) enter through the wounds. This is especially dangerous for old trees (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

How to avoid:

• For bush-type varieties, only head back very long growth (over 50 cm), and no more than 1/4–1/3 of its length.
• For tree-type varieties, focus primarily on thinning, not heading back. Use heading back only for branch subordination.
• General rule: never remove more than 25–30% of the live canopy in a single season. If the tree is severely neglected, spread the pruning over 2–3 years (Potapov et al., 2000).

Signs you've overdone it: appearance of many vertical water sprouts in summer, absence of flower buds on annual growth, excessive gumosis.

7.2. Incorrect Cutting Technique

The mistake: The gardener leaves stubs when removing branches, makes cuts too deep or uneven, and doesn't treat large wounds.

Let's examine each sub-mistake:

7.3. Ignoring the Fruiting Characteristics of Different Cherry Types

This is the most common and most dangerous mistake. The gardener doesn't distinguish between tree-type and bush-type varieties and uses the same pruning techniques for both. But they are different!

Table: Consequences of Incorrect Pruning for Different Cherry Types

How to avoid: Before pruning, determine your cherry type. Tree-type varieties (Anadolskaya, Zhukovskaya, Shpanka) have a clear central leader and are taller. Bush-type varieties (Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya, Molodyozhnaya) have a canopy of several equal stems from the ground and are shorter. Carefully study varietal characteristics.

Sign of the mistake: If you severely head back a bush-type cherry (leaving 2–3 buds) and it produces almost no fruit that year—you removed the fruit buds. Remember: for bush-type varieties, one-year-old growth is almost never heavily headed back! (Tarasov, 1981).

7.4. Incorrect Choice of Pruning Time

The mistake: The gardener prunes the cherry in autumn (in the middle zone or northern regions), or, conversely, too early in winter during severe frost, or too late in spring when sap flow has already started.

Consequences:

• Autumn pruning in cold regions leads to freezing of tissues around cuts; wounds don't heal, and gumosis appears in spring (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).
• Winter pruning at temperatures below –8 °C makes wood brittle, cuts are jagged and heal slowly (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Late spring pruning (when buds have already opened) causes severe gumosis and weakens the tree. The tree "weeps"—sap flows abundantly from wounds, attracting pests and providing a medium for fungi (Potapov et al., 2000).

How to avoid: Strictly follow the timing for your region (see Chapter 6). In the middle zone, this is late March–April, before bud break. In southern regions—February–March. In northern—April–May. If the winter was harsh, wait until the start of the growing season to accurately identify frost-damaged parts.

7.5. Ignoring Sanitary Pruning

The mistake: The gardener removes only "annoying" or old branches but leaves dry, diseased, or damaged ones. Or delays their removal until spring.

Why it's dangerous: Dry and diseased branches are sources of infection. Fungal spores (coccomycosis, moniliosis) and bacteria spread from them by wind, rain, and insects to healthy parts of the tree. The longer such a branch remains on the tree, the higher the risk of infecting the entire canopy (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

How to avoid: Sanitary pruning is done whenever dry, diseased, or broken branches are found, regardless of the season. However, it's best done in early spring as part of the main pruning. Removed branches should be burned (not composted!) to destroy pathogens (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

7.6. Incorrect Canopy Shape Selection

The mistake: The gardener tries to form a high trunk and a tiered canopy with a central leader on a bush-type cherry (like an apple tree), or, conversely, a very low bush form on a tree-type cherry.

Consequences: This contradicts cherry biology. For bush-type varieties, a high trunk causes the main fruit-bearing shoots to shift upwards; the canopy center becomes bare, and the tree becomes inconvenient for harvesting. For tree-type varieties, excessive "bushing" weakens the central leader, the canopy loses strength, and branches break under the weight of fruit (Tarasov, 1981).

How to avoid: Choose the canopy shape that corresponds to the cherry type:

• For tree-type—open-center or improved leader system with a clear central leader.
• For bush-type—multi-stemmed, bush form, with a low trunk (20–35 cm) or none, with 8–15 equal-strength branches originating from the base.

7.7. Removing Root Suckers "By Sight"

The mistake: The gardener cuts the sucker at ground level, leaving a small stub. Or simply breaks it off.

Why it's harmful: In grafted cherries, suckers originate from the rootstock roots. If cut at ground level, even more sucker shoots will grow from the remaining buds on the stub. Additionally, the remaining stub can rot, weakening the main trunk (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

How to do it right: Remove suckers by digging down to their origin point on the root and cutting them off at the very base, "on the ring." Fill the hole with soil. This is best done in spring or early summer while the shoots are young (Tarasov, 1981).

Important: For own-rooted (ungrafted) cherries, suckers can be used for rejuvenation, leaving 2–3 of the strongest shoots to form a new bush. But for grafted ones, remove them completely.

7.8. Ignoring Post-Planting Pruning

The mistake: The gardener thinks the cherry sapling doesn't need pruning at planting to avoid "traumatizing" it. Or prunes it too lightly.

Consequences: Without pruning, the balance between roots and canopy is disrupted. Roots damaged during digging cannot supply all the buds and shoots with nutrients. The tree takes a long time to establish, grows poorly, and fruits late (Potapov et al., 2000).

How to do it right: All saplings (except very weak ones) must be pruned at planting. A one-year-old whip sapling is shortened to 50–70 cm. If it has lateral branches, select 3–5 of the strongest, shorten them by 1/3–1/2, and remove the rest. The central leader should be 15–20 cm higher than the lateral branches. This stimulates root development and the formation of a strong framework (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Chapter summary (checklist of mistakes):

Conclusion

We have traveled the full path from understanding the goals of pruning to correcting mistakes. Remember the main points: cherry is a rewarding crop that responds to proper pruning with stable yields, large and sweet fruit, and a long productive life.

Key principles to remember:

1. Start with formation—establish a strong framework in the first 4–6 years.

2. Maintain annually—thin, remove excess, but don't overdo heading back.

3. Rejuvenate on time—don't wait until the tree is completely weakened.

4. Prune in spring—this is the best time for most regions.

5. Consider the type—tree-type and bush-type cherries require different approaches.

Good luck in your garden! May your cherry tree reward you with abundant harvests for many years.