Shaping and pruning

Regulating Growth and Creating a Strong Framework

In pears, unlike apples, there is very strong growth at a young age, a pronounced tendency towards central leadership (vertical growth), and a natural inclination to form tall, pyramidal crowns (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). Without intervention, a tree can stretch to 7–8 meters or more, which is extremely inconvenient for care and harvesting.

Pruning solves this problem in two ways. First, through heading back (shortening), we limit the height and volume of the crown, making the tree compact and easy to manage. Second, we form a strong framework of scaffold branches capable of withstanding the load of a heavy harvest. This is achieved through hormonal processes occurring within the plant. For example, changing the angle of a branch (bending it down) or shortening it redistributes the flow of auxins (growth hormones), which weakens the branch's growth in length but stimulates the formation of lateral, stronger, and more fruitful branches (Tarasov, 1981; Jackson, 2003).

Crown Illumination – The Key to Fruit Quality

One of the main goals of pruning is to create a well-lit crown. Light, penetrating all parts of the tree, is essential for photosynthesis – the process by which leaves produce nutrients for growth and fruit development. In a dense, unpruned crown (especially in pears, which tend to thicken), the inner branches and leaves suffer from a lack of light. They become small, weak, their productivity plummets, and they prematurely die off (Tarasov, 1981).

How it works: Regular thinning (removing some branches) improves light and air access to all parts of the crown. This not only stimulates growth and fruiting within the crown but also promotes better fruit coloration, reduces the risk of fungal diseases as moisture evaporates faster, and simplifies the application of protective sprays (Westwood, 1993).

Productivity: From Quantity to Quality

In pears, fruit-bearing structures (spurs, spears, fruit twigs) are laid primarily on short shoots and perennial wood (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). The task of pruning is to stimulate the formation of such highly productive wood.

There are two main pruning methods to increase yield:

1. Thinning: Removing excess, low-productivity, or overcrowding branches. This does not stimulate vigorous growth but redirects nutrients to the remaining fruit-bearing structures, making the fruits larger and of better quality (Tarasov, 1981).

2. Heading Back (Shortening): Stimulates bud break and the growth of new shoots. This is especially important for maintaining a balance between growth and fruiting. In aging trees, heading back to 2-3-year-old wood (rejuvenation pruning) awakens dormant buds, giving rise to new, strong shoots that will bear fruit in future years (Kurennoi, Koltunov, and Cherepakhin, 1985).

Thus, pruning allows us not to chase quantity but to form a regular and high-quality harvest, preventing the periodicity of fruiting where a bountiful harvest is followed by an 'off' year.

Extending the Tree's Lifespan

Timely pruning extends the productive life of the tree. By removing old, diseased, and dying branches, we prevent the spread of infections. Rejuvenation pruning, by awakening dormant buds and stimulating the growth of new shoots, literally 'returns' youth to the tree. As P.G. Schitt noted, competent pruning allows us to manage the age-related periods of a tree, delaying the onset of old age and increasing its useful lifespan (Potapov et al., 2000). In orchards with properly formed and regularly pruned trees, yields remain stable for 25–30 years or more, whereas neglected plantings age and reduce output by 15–20 years.

Central Leader

The central leader is the main, vertical trunk of the tree. In pears, it is very pronounced, and this 'leadership' is one of the key characteristics of the species (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). The leader continues to grow upwards throughout the tree's life if not restricted, which can lead to a tree that is too tall and difficult to manage.

How it works: The leader is a source of hormones (auxins) that suppress the growth of lateral branches. This phenomenon is called apical dominance. The stronger and taller the central leader grows, the weaker the lateral branches grow. The gardener uses this by regulating the leader's growth. In a properly formed pear crown, the leader should dominate the side branches but not completely suppress them. Shortening it stimulates the growth of lateral branches, while removing it (e.g., when forming an open-center crown) transfers dominance to the lateral branches (Tarasov, 1981; Potapov et al., 2000).

Scaffold Branches

These are the large, main branches arising from the trunk that form the 'skeleton' of the crown. They are the primary load-bearing structures that hold the entire harvest. In a pear crown formed using a modified leader system, usually 5–6 first-order scaffold branches are left. They are placed on the leader singly or in small tiers, spaced 25–40 cm apart (Tarasov, 1981).

Key point: The angle of attachment of a scaffold branch to the trunk (the angle between the branch and the central leader) should be at least 45–50° (Westwood, 1993; Potapov et al., 2000). Why is this so important? Branches growing at a sharp angle are significantly weaker. They do not form a proper collar ring at the base, and under the weight of fruit or snow, there is a high risk of breakage. To widen the angles of attachment in young trees, spacers or bending are used (Tarasov, 1981). Narrow forks, where two equally strong branches emerge from the same point, are also considered weak points (Jackson, 2003).

Semi-Scaffold Branches

These are second-order branches that arise from the scaffold branches. They are not as thick and powerful as scaffold branches but perform an important function – they bear the main fruiting wood. The main task during crown formation is not to let semi-scaffold branches outgrow into scaffold branches, i.e., become just as powerful and start competing with the main branches. To do this, their length is limited (usually to 1–1.5 m) by shortening or bending (Tarasov, 1981). Pears are known for their high bud break, so semi-scaffold branches form relatively easily; however, they must be constantly kept under control to avoid crowding (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Bearing Wood (Fruiting Wood)

These are the smallest, shortest, and most numerous twigs that densely cover the scaffold and semi-scaffold branches. It is on these that the main part of the crop is set and matures. The bearing wood of a pear includes:

• Spurs: The shortest formations (from a few millimeters to 3 cm long), having one well-developed terminal bud. On pears, they are typically quite shortened and bear flower buds.
• Spears: Fruit-bearing formations up to 10 cm long with shortened internodes and usually a vegetative terminal bud.
• Fruit Twigs: Longer (up to 60–70 cm) annual growths, along the entire length of which, besides vegetative ones, fruit buds are also set.

Important: Most pear varieties bear fruit mainly on spurs and fruit-bearing structures, i.e., on perennial, old wood (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). This determines the nature of pruning: we cannot mindlessly remove perennial branches, as they hold the future harvest. Our task is to maintain the constant renewal and rejuvenation of this bearing wood so that it does not age and remains productive.

Fruit Buds and Formations

These are modified twigs whose main function is flowering and fruiting. In pears, as in apples, flower buds are mixed. This means that in spring, flowers and a shoot (replacement shoot) develop simultaneously from such a bud. Due to this, on pear fruit-bearing formations after fruiting, a new shoot often grows, which will give rise to a new fruit formation. This cycle can repeat for many years, forming so-called 'fruiting structures' – perennial, branched fruit-bearing formations.

Understanding the type of fruiting of a particular variety helps determine the pruning strategy. In some varieties (e.g., Bere Bosc, Williams, Clapp's Favorite), flower buds are set not only on spurs but also on the ends of annual shoots (twigs) (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). Such varieties are called twig-fruiting (or tip-bearing). If the main part of the crop is formed on spurs and fruiting structures (e.g., Olivier de Serres), it is called spur-fruiting. Knowing this helps the gardener understand which branches to cut and which are best left alone to avoid losing the harvest.

Root System

Although this article focuses on the above-ground part, it is important to remember that the root system is the foundation of the entire tree. The pear root system is typically a taproot or a powerful, deep-penetrating system. This makes the tree more drought-resistant but also influences its growth vigor (Agustí, 2010). The rootstock onto which the pear is grafted (seedling pear or quince) also drastically affects the tree's structure and growth vigor. A pear on a quince rootstock is dwarfing and early-bearing; on a seedling rootstock, it is vigorous and long-lived but late to come into bearing. When forming the crown, the growth vigor determined by the rootstock must always be considered (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

To summarize: Competent pear pruning is a dialogue between the gardener and the tree in the language of its anatomy. We must understand which organ we are shortening, which branch we are removing, and how this will affect the entire tree.

Basic Principles of Formation

Forming the crown of a pear pursues three key goals: to create a strong framework, ensure good illumination of all parts of the crown, and stimulate early fruiting (Potapov et al., 2000). Unlike the apple tree, the pear has a strongly pronounced 'central leadership' and a tendency to form tall, pyramidal crowns (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). Therefore, our main task is to curb this natural growth, forming a compact, easy-to-manage tree with wide angles of attachment for the scaffold branches.

Key principle: In the first years of the tree's life, minimal pruning should be applied. Excessive shortening of branches on young trees weakens them, delays entry into fruiting, and slows down the rate of yield increase (Tarasov, 1981). Instead of aggressive cutting, it is recommended to use branch bending, spacer placement, and other techniques that allow changing the angle without removing a significant portion of wood.

Timing of the First Pruning

There is an important nuance regarding the timing of the first post-planting pruning. In areas with sufficient moisture and a cool spring, the first pruning can be done in the spring of the year following planting. However, in conditions of a dry and hot spring or with a lack of moisture, early bud break can cause desiccation and even death of the sapling. In such cases, pruning is carried out immediately after planting to delay leaf emergence by 5–7 days, thereby increasing the plant's survival rate (Tarasov, 1981).

Choosing a Formation System

For pears, two main formation systems are most common:

1. Modified Leader (Sparse-tiered): This is the most versatile and recommended system for amateur gardens. On the trunk, 5–6 first-order scaffold branches are left, placed singly or in small tiers with an interval of 25–40 cm. The leader is maintained until the required number of branches is formed, and then it is removed above the top scaffold branch, 'opening' the center of the crown (Tarasov, 1981; Westwood, 1993).

2. Open Center (Vase-shaped): Used mainly for dwarf varieties and in regions where it is important to limit tree height. The leader is removed above the first tier of 3–4 branches set from adjacent buds. The main advantage is good illumination of the crown center; the disadvantage is less framework strength (Tarasov, 1981).

For most amateur gardeners, the modified leader system will be the optimal choice, as it provides a good balance between crown strength, illumination, and ease of management.

Formation by Year

Forming Pears on Dwarf Rootstocks

Pears grafted onto quince rootstock or other dwarfing rootstocks have limited growth vigor and come into bearing earlier. Special formation systems have been developed for them, such as the slender spindle (Grusbeck) or free-growing palmette, which allow the creation of a flat crown, convenient for dense planting and intensive care (Tarasov, 1981). When forming such trees, it is important to remember that they are more demanding on soil fertility and moisture, and their scaffold branches have less strength (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). For them, the use of support systems (trellises, stakes) and regular, gentle pruning is particularly relevant.

Tasks of Maintenance Pruning

A mature fruiting pear tree faces two conflicting tasks: it must produce an abundant harvest and simultaneously grow enough vegetative mass for setting fruit buds for the next year. Maintenance pruning helps balance these processes.

The main tasks of this stage are:

1. Maintaining optimal crown dimensions: Limiting the height and width of the tree for ease of care, harvesting, and ensuring good illumination of all its parts.

2. Crown thinning: Removing crowding, rubbing, crossing, and inward-growing branches.

3. Regulating growth vigor: Stimulating the formation of new, strong growths necessary to replace aging fruit wood.

4. Rejuvenating fruiting structures: Removing old, low-productivity spurs, fruiting formations, and twigs, and stimulating the growth of new ones.

5. Crop load regulation: Managing the number of fruit buds and, consequently, the crop load to prevent biennial bearing and fruit size reduction.

Two Main Pruning Methods

In maintenance pruning, as in formative pruning, two main techniques are used: thinning and heading back. However, their application and effect in mature trees have their own characteristics.

Regulating Fruiting

Pears, like apples, are prone to biennial bearing (alternate bearing), where a heavy crop one year is followed by a complete or near absence of fruit the next. This is because, in a 'bumper' year, all the tree's energy goes into forming and ripening fruit, and virtually no fruit buds are set for the next year (Jackson, 2003). Maintenance pruning is one of the key tools for combating this phenomenon.

Crop load regulation through pruning: During winter pruning, when fruit and vegetative buds are clearly visible, the gardener can adjust the tree's load. For varieties that bear mainly on spurs, regulation is achieved by thinning out old, weakened, and congested fruit formations. For varieties that bear on annual shoots (twigs), shortening some of the long shoots stimulates the formation of new fruit buds on the remaining part of the shoot and promotes the formation of replacement shoots for the next year (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

In some cases, chemical thinning of fruitlets is used (e.g., with auxin-based preparations), but for amateur gardens, the main method remains manual pruning and subsequent, if necessary, manual thinning of fruitlets after flowering (Potapov et al., 2000).

The Importance of Annual Pruning

Maintenance pruning should be carried out annually (Westwood, 1993; Tarasov, 1981). Skipping even one season can disrupt the delicate balance between growth and fruiting, leading to crown crowding, reduced yields, and poorer fruit quality. Annual, even minor, pruning helps the tree remain healthy and productive for decades.

Key principle of maintenance pruning: Small, regular interventions are far more effective than infrequent but 'surgical' pruning. It is better to remove a few branches each year than to do a major crown clearance once every 5–7 years.

In the next section, we will look at rejuvenation pruning of old and neglected pear trees:

• How to tell if a tree needs rejuvenation.
• Basic principles and stages of rejuvenation pruning.
• Restoring fruiting in an old tree.

Signs of Tree Aging

A pear tree does not age suddenly. The process occurs gradually, and the gardener needs to notice its first signs in time:

1. Weakening of shoot growth: The length of annual growths decreases to 15–20 cm or less (the optimal length for a mature fruiting tree is 30–40 cm). Young shoots become thin, weak, with short internodes.

2. Bare branches: The internal and lower parts of scaffold branches lose their bearing wood and become bare. The bulk of leaves and fruits shifts to the periphery of the crown.

3. Fruit shrinking: Fruits become small, losing the typical varietal taste and commercial appearance.

4. Increased biennial bearing: Productive years alternate with nearly empty ones, and the intervals between harvests may increase.

5. Massive dieback of fruit structures: Spurs, fruiting formations, and fruit twigs die without producing replacements. This is the most striking sign of tree aging (Potapov et al., 2000; Westwood, 1993).

If you notice at least a few of these signs, it's time to consider rejuvenation pruning. It's important not to delay until the tree begins to die back massively. The optimal time is when shoot growth has just started to decline (growths around 15–20 cm), but the tree still retains sufficient vitality (Tarasov, 1981).

Basic Principles of Rejuvenation Pruning

Rejuvenation pruning is a serious surgical intervention, so it is important to follow a few fundamental rules:

1. Stretched over time: You cannot try to rejuvenate a tree in a single season. Drastic removal of a large volume of the crown causes shock, stimulates rampant growth of water sprouts (vigorous shoots), and can lead to the tree's death. Rejuvenation is carried out in several stages (usually over 2–3 years), starting with the largest and oldest branches (Tarasov, 1981; Westwood, 1993).

2. Pruning to a lateral branch: Rejuvenation pruning is done by cutting old branches back to a well-developed young side shoot (cutting to a side branch). This preserves the direction of growth and provides better support for the young shoot. Cuts should be made as close to the young branch as possible without leaving a stub (Tarasov, 1981).

3. Stimulating dormant buds: The main goal of rejuvenation is to awaken dormant buds located at the base of scaffold branches and on the trunk. They will give rise to new strong shoots (water sprouts), which will become the basis for the new, young crown. This is precisely why branches are shortened back to perennial wood (to 5-10-year-old growths), leaving a section with many dormant buds (Kurennoi, Koltunov, and Cherepakhin, 1985).

4. Combination with enhanced nutrition: Rejuvenation pruning should be carried out against a background of good agricultural practices – watering, fertilization (especially organic and nitrogenous), mulching. Only then will the tree be able to recover quickly and use the resulting water sprouts to build a new crown (Potapov et al., 2000).

Sequence of Actions

Here is a step-by-step plan for rejuvenation pruning of a neglected pear:

Specifics for Pears

The pear has a higher shoot regeneration capacity than the apple tree (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012). This means it responds better to rejuvenation pruning and produces more vigorous water sprouts. However, this is also its weakness: without proper control, water sprouts quickly turn into a crowding 'forest' of vertical shoots that will need annual thinning. Therefore, rejuvenating a pear requires more attentive and regular care in the following years.

Important caveat: Rejuvenation pruning should not be performed on weakened, diseased, or frost-damaged trees. It could be the last straw, after which the tree will not recover. First, strengthen the tree with agricultural practices (watering, feeding, protection from diseases and pests), and after a year or two, begin rejuvenation.

General Principles for Choosing Timing

The main rule to remember is: the bulk of pear pruning is done during the dormant period (Westwood, 1993; Tarasov, 1981). During this time, the tree is 'asleep': sap flow is slowed, and buds have not started to grow. Pruning during dormancy is least traumatic for the plant; wounds have time to dry before the start of active sap flow, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and gum bleeding (which, fortunately, is less pronounced in pears than in stone fruits).

However, the dormant period occurs at different times and has different durations in different climatic zones. Therefore, it is important to adapt pruning times to the conditions of your region. In addition, there are summer operations carried out during the growing season to solve specific tasks.

Winter Pruning

When: In warm southern regions (e.g., the North Caucasus, Crimea, Moldova), pruning can begin in December and continue throughout the winter, up to February, excluding only days with severe frosts (below -5…-8°C) and unfavorable weather (precipitation, strong wind) (Kurennoi, Koltunov, and Cherepakhin, 1985). In regions with harsh winters (central Russia, Urals, Siberia), winter pruning carries risks: frost can damage tissues at the cut sites, leading to branch dieback and disease development.

Advantages:

• The tree is in deep dormancy, minimizing stress.
• The crown structure is clearly visible (without leaves), making it easier to select branches for removal.
• The main volume of work can be done without rushing.

Risks:

• In harsh regions, frost can damage wounds and the surrounding cambium.
• Cuts made in winter heal more slowly.

Recommendation: In regions with cold winters, winter pruning is best done in late winter – early spring (February – March), when the most severe frosts are behind, but the buds have not yet begun to swell. In southern regions, winter pruning is the main and most convenient season for all types of work.

Spring Pruning

When: Late winter – early spring, before the start of sap flow and bud break. In the central belt, this is usually March – early April; in northern regions, April; in southern regions, late February – March.

Advantages:

• You can assess the condition of the buds after winter and adjust the tree's load accordingly.
• The risk of frost damage to cuts is minimal.
• The safest period for pruning in regions with cold climates.

Disadvantages:

• The time for work is limited: you need to finish before sap flow begins.
• During a protracted spring, there may not be enough time to process all the trees.

Important: For pears, spring pruning (as for apples) is considered preferable in zones with harsh winters (Tarasov, 1981). Wounds inflicted in spring are quickly callused over with the onset of active sap flow. However, it should be remembered that pruning cannot be done after sap flow begins – it can cause the tree to 'bleed' (exude sap) and weaken it.

Summer Pruning

When: During the active growing season – from late May to August. However, for pears, summer pruning is of secondary importance.

Tasks of summer pruning:

• Pinching (topping) shoots: Removing the tip of a young green shoot. Carried out to stop its length growth, stimulate branching, and accelerate the formation of fruit buds (Tarasov, 1981). Especially effective for young trees and vigorous varieties.
• Removing water sprouts and vertical shoots: In summer, all vertically growing vigorous shoots (water sprouts) that shade the crown and divert energy from the tree are clearly visible. They can be broken out or cut 'to the collar' while still green, without waiting for winter.
• Crown correction for trained trees: In some formation systems (e.g., for palmettes or trellis forms), summer pruning is a mandatory element of care (Tarasov, 1981).

Important: Summer pruning weakens the tree, as it removes part of the assimilating apparatus (leaves). Therefore, its volume should be minimal. It should not be carried out in hot, dry weather, as this increases stress on the plant.

Autumn Pruning

When: After leaf fall, when the tree has already shed its leaves and entered dormancy, but before the onset of persistent frosts. In the central belt, this is usually October – November.

Advantages:

• In southern regions, autumn pruning allows you to lighten the spring workload.
• In northern regions, only sanitary pruning – removal of dry, diseased, and broken branches – can be done in autumn.

Risks:

• In regions with harsh winters, autumn pruning is dangerous: wounds do not have time to heal before frost, which can lead to branch freezing and disease development (Westwood, 1993).
• A tree weakened by pruning survives winter less well.

Recommendation: In the central belt and further north, it is better not to do autumn pruning of pears. At most, remove dry and diseased branches if necessary to prevent the spread of infection. Leave the main volume of work for spring. In southern regions, autumn pruning is acceptable but should be completed before frost sets in.

Table of Recommended Timing by Region

General Recommendations

1. Main pruning: For most amateur gardeners in regions with cold and temperate winters, the optimal time is early spring, before bud break. This is safe and gives the best results.

2. Sanitary pruning: Dry, diseased, and broken branches can be removed at any time of year, but it's better to do it as soon as they are noticed, without waiting for the seasonal pruning.

3. Summer operations: To restrict growth and improve fruiting, use pinching and removal of water sprouts during the summer months (June – July).

4. During severe frosts: Do not prune trees when the temperature is below -8…-10°C. The wood becomes brittle, cuts are jagged and heal poorly (Kurennoi, Koltunov, and Cherepakhin, 1985).

5. Pear on quince: Trees on dwarf quince rootstocks are more sensitive to frost. For them, it is especially important to avoid late autumn and early winter pruning (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Mistake 1: Excessive Pruning (Overdoing It)

What it looks like: The gardener removes too many branches in one season (more than 30–40% of the crown), severely shortens all scaffold branches, cuts out all 'extra' branches indiscriminately, striving to give the tree an 'ideal' shape. This often happens due to fear that the tree will 'overgrow' or a lack of understanding of the plant's response (Tarasov, 1981).

Why it's bad: The pear, like any fruit tree, perceives severe pruning as a signal for emergency recovery. In response, it launches powerful vegetative growth: vertical vigorous shoots (water sprouts) begin to grow from dormant buds throughout the crown. These shoots quickly crowd the crown, divert energy from the tree, shade the fruit-bearing structures, and, most importantly, do not bear fruit in the first years. As a result, instead of a harvest, you get a 'forest' of useless shoots. In addition, severe pruning weakens the tree, reduces its immunity, and can cause shock from which the tree will take several years to recover (Westwood, 1993).

How to do it right: Follow the golden rule: remove no more than 25–30% of the crown in one season. If the tree is heavily neglected, spread rejuvenation pruning over 2–3 years. Start with sanitary pruning and removal of the largest problematic branches, leaving the rest for next year. With regular maintenance pruning, the volume of wood removed should be even less – 10–15% of the crown. Remember: it's better to under-prune slightly than to over-prune (Potapov et al., 2000).

Mistake 2: Incorrect Cutting Technique

What it looks like: Leaving stubs when removing branches, cutting 'to the collar' with bark damage, cutting at the wrong angle, using blunt or dirty tools. This mistake is one of the most dangerous as it directly affects the health of the tree (Tarasov, 1981).

Why it's bad:

• Stubs: Left stubs (more than 0.5–1 cm) do not heal; the wood on them begins to die, becoming an entry point for fungal infections, including those causing rot and bracket fungi. Over time, a hollow can form at the stub site.
• Incorrect 'collar' cut: If a branch is cut too close to the trunk, the collar ring (the bark swelling at the branch base) is damaged, which contains cells actively dividing to heal the wound. Such a wound heals very slowly, may never heal completely, or lead to bark dieback on the trunk.
• Jagged cut: A blunt tool does not cut but crushes the wood, leaving a jagged, uneven surface that heals poorly and remains open to infections for a long time.
• How to do it right:**
• Removing a branch 'to the collar': Cut the branch along the upper edge of the collar ring at its base, without damaging it. When removing thick branches (thicker than 3–4 cm), first make an undercut from below for about 1/3 of the branch thickness, then cut from above, 3–5 cm farther from the trunk than the bottom cut. Then carefully remove the remaining stub 'to the collar' (Tarasov, 1981).
• Cutting 'to a bud': When shortening an annual shoot, make a cut at a 45° angle to the shoot axis, stepping back 0.5–1 cm from the bud towards the side opposite the bud. The top point of the cut should be level with the tip of the bud. This ensures rapid healing and the correct direction of growth for the new shoot (Westwood, 1993).
• Tools: Use only sharp, clean, and disinfected tools. Secateurs should be well sharpened and adjusted. After each tree (or even after removing diseased branches), wipe the blades with alcohol or a potassium permanganate solution to avoid transferring infection.

Mistake 3: Ignoring the Growth and Fruiting Characteristics of the Pear

What it looks like: The gardener applies the same pruning techniques to the pear as to the apple tree, without considering its biological characteristics. For example, severely shortening all annual growths, cutting out all fruit twigs, laying down too many scaffold branches with sharp angles of attachment (Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Why it's bad:

• Strong apical dominance: The pear tends to grow upward more actively than the apple. If the growth of the leader and scaffold branches is not regulated, the tree becomes too tall, hindering care and harvesting.
• Fruiting on perennial wood: In most pear varieties, the main part of the crop is formed on spurs and fruiting structures (perennial formations). Mindless shortening of these branches deprives you of the future harvest.
• Poor compatibility with some rootstocks: Pear varieties grafted onto quince have limited growth vigor and require gentler pruning. Severe pruning of such trees can lead to their weakening (Westwood, 1993; Trunov and Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Sharp angles of attachment: In pears, branches with sharp angles of attachment to the trunk are particularly weak and prone to breakage.
• How to do it right:** Study the characteristics of your variety. Know which branches bear fruit (on twigs, on spurs, or mixed). When forming the crown, pay special attention to creating wide angles of attachment (at least 50–60°), using spacers and bending. When pruning mature trees, do not remove all fruit twigs – leave some for forming new branches. Consider the growth vigor determined by the rootstock and adjust the pruning intensity accordingly.

Mistake 4: Pruning Only at One Time and Ignoring Summer Operations

What it looks like: The gardener prunes only in winter or early spring and does not perform summer operations, such as removing water sprouts and pinching (Tarasov, 1981).

Why it's bad: Water sprouts that grow after severe winter pruning, if not removed in summer, can severely crowd the crown in one season, diverting nutrients from the fruit structures. By winter, they have time to lignify, and removing them will require more effort, leaving large wounds.

How to do it right: Include summer operations in your care calendar. Regularly (every 2-3 weeks from June to August) inspect the crown and remove vertical vigorous shoots at the initial stage – break them out or cut them while they are still green and tender. Perform pinching (topping) on strongly growing shoots to stop their growth and stimulate branching (Potapov et al., 2000).

Mistake 5: Ignoring Sanitary Pruning

What it looks like: The gardener focuses only on formative or rejuvenating pruning, not paying attention to removing dry, diseased, and damaged branches.

Why it's bad: Dry and diseased branches are a source of infections (fungal diseases, rots). Pests also often settle in dying wood and then move to healthy parts of the tree. By leaving such branches, you expose the entire tree to danger (Westwood, 1993).

How to do it right: Sanitary pruning should be carried out regularly, regardless of the season. If you find a dry or diseased branch, remove it if it is safe (not during strong sap flow). Burn all cut diseased branches to prevent the spread of infection. Cut them back to healthy wood (5–10 cm below the visible lesion) and disinfect the tool after each such cut.

Mistake 6: Improper Wound Care

What it looks like: The gardener does not cover large cuts (diameter more than 2–3 cm) or uses inappropriate materials for it (e.g., oil paint, which is airtight and moisture-proof). Sometimes even small cuts are covered, which gives no positive effect (Tarasov, 1981).

Why it's bad: Large open wounds are entry points for infections. Without protection, they heal slowly, may begin to rot, and serve as shelter for pests. Using oil paint and other airtight materials can, on the contrary, create a greenhouse effect under the protective layer, promoting rot development.

How to do it right: Cover only large cuts (diameter more than 2–3 cm) using a special tree wound dressing (pruning sealer) like grafting wax. The dressing should be plastic, adhere well to the wound, and not crack. Before applying the dressing, clean the edges of the cut with a sharp garden knife to make them smooth. Small cuts (up to 2 cm) usually heal well on their own, without dressing. Remember that the dressing is needed not to accelerate healing, but to protect the wound from diseases and pests until callus begins to form (Westwood, 1993).

Brief Summary: What to Remember to Avoid Mistakes

Pruning a pear is not just about removing branches; it is the art of managing the life of a tree. It requires knowledge, patience, and attention to detail. But when you see a healthy, beautifully shaped tree that annually rewards you with an abundant harvest of juicy and aromatic fruits, all the effort is repaid a hundredfold. Good luck in your garden!