Care

1. Main Objectives of Strawberry Care

Caring for strawberries is not a one‑off event but a year‑round process. Its main goal is to create and maintain conditions in which the plants can fully realise their genetic potential. The entire set of measures addresses several key tasks:

1. Creating optimal conditions for root system growth and development. The bulk of strawberry roots lies in the topsoil layer (up to 20–30 cm) (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). This makes the plants extremely sensitive to lack of moisture, air, and nutrients. Care tasks include ensuring soil looseness and aeration, maintaining stable moisture, and preventing soil crust formation. This allows roots to breathe freely, absorb moisture and nutrients, which in turn forms the basis for vigorous leaf growth and flower bud initiation.

2. Providing plants with sufficient light and nutrition. Strawberries are light‑loving; even slight shading by weeds or excessive plant density leads to reduced yields (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). Hence, one task is regular weed control and regulation of planting density. Moreover, strawberries are demanding of soil fertility. Regular fertilisation and mulching help maintain the necessary level of available nutrients (Bianchi, 2018).

3. Protecting plants from diseases, pests, and stress factors. Dense foliage, high humidity, and warm weather create ideal conditions for fungal diseases such as grey mould (Botrytis cinerea) and powdery mildew (Bowling, 2000; Mandal et al., 2021). Many pests, like strawberry mites or aphids, also pose a serious threat. Proper care is, first and foremost, prevention. Thinning plantings, removing diseased leaves, and keeping beds clean are the main measures that help avoid the use of chemical agents.

4. Formation and preservation of the future harvest. Flower buds in strawberries (except remontant varieties) are initiated in the summer‑autumn period when day length shortens to 12–10 hours (Dankov, 2015). This occurs from late July to October. The extent to which the plant is supplied with moisture and nutrition during this critical period directly determines how many flower stalks – and hence berries – we will get in the next season. That is why post‑harvest care is no less important than care during flowering and fruiting.

5. Preparing plants for winter. Although many varieties have sufficient winter hardiness, their root system and growing points (the “crown”) are very vulnerable to low temperatures, especially in snowless winters or during sharp temperature fluctuations (Kurennoi et al., 1985). The main autumn care task is to help plants accumulate nutrients and create reliable cover (snow retention, mulching) that will protect them from freezing and damping off.

Thus, strawberry care is a comprehensive and continuous process, where each action has its reason and is aimed at the final result: healthy, strong plants and a bountiful harvest of tasty berries. In the following chapters, we will examine each of these aspects in detail.

2. Soil Care: Loosening, Crust Control, and Structure Preservation

For strawberries, the condition of the topsoil is crucial, more so than for many other crops. Most of their roots lie at a depth of only 20–30 cm, with only a few roots penetrating deeper (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). This shallow root zone is most susceptible to drying out, overheating, compaction, and erosion. Therefore, the main task of soil care is to keep it loose, moist, and clean, so that roots can breathe freely and absorb moisture and nutrients.

Loosening: Why and How

Loosening, or “dry irrigation”, is one of the most important agronomic practices. It serves several purposes:

1. Destroying soil crust. After rain or watering, a dense crust forms on the soil surface, blocking air access to roots and hindering evaporation of excess moisture, which can lead to rot. Loosening breaks this crust, restoring gas exchange.

2. Retaining moisture. By breaking the capillaries through which moisture rises to the surface and evaporates, loosening helps retain water in the root zone. That is why loosening is called “dry irrigation”.

3. Improving water permeability. Loose soil absorbs rainwater and irrigation water better, preventing runoff and erosion.

4. Weed control. Loosening effectively destroys weed seedlings at early stages.

The first soil treatment is carried out in early spring, as soon as the ground dries and is ready for cultivation. In row spacing, loosening is done to a depth of 8–10 cm, while near the plants – no deeper than 3–4 cm, so as not to damage the shallow root system (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). During the season, it is recommended to carry out 6–7 inter‑row cultivations, especially before harvest (Kurennoi et al., 1985). It is important to remember that loosening should not be done on wet soil, as this leads to clod formation and deteriorates soil structure. The best time is a few hours after watering or rain, when the soil begins to dry.

Preserving Soil Structure

Besides regular loosening, soil structure can be preserved in other ways. For example, using green manures (cover crops) in crop rotation before planting strawberries helps create a loose, organic‑rich layer. Plant root exudates and decomposing green mass improve structure, making the soil more granular and less prone to crusting (Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003).

It is also important to avoid excessive mechanical cultivation, especially in wet weather, and to remove weeds promptly; their roots themselves loosen the soil, and after dying off they enrich it with organic matter. However, the main and most reliable way to preserve and improve soil structure is mulching, which we will dedicate the next chapter to.

At the end of the season, before winter covering, light loosening can be done to aerate the soil, but try not to disturb the roots. In well‑cared‑for soil, the strawberry root system develops more vigorously, which directly affects the quantity and quality of berries. As one of the classics of horticulture rightly noted: “The footprint of the owner is the best fertiliser for the garden” (Hill & Perry, 2011). This principle fits strawberry care perfectly: regular attention to soil condition is the key to a thriving berry patch.

3. Mulching: Organic and Synthetic Materials, Advantages and Limitations

Mulching is one of the most effective and multifunctional techniques in strawberry care. Essentially, it is creating a protective layer on the soil surface around the plants. This seemingly simple method addresses several critically important tasks simultaneously: retaining moisture, suppressing weeds, protecting berries from soiling and diseases, and improving soil temperature and nutrient regimes. Not surprisingly, in modern strawberry growing, mulching is considered an essential agronomic practice (Bianchi, 2018; Sharma et al., 2019). The very name of the crop, according to one version, comes from the English word “straw”, which was traditionally used for this purpose (Sharma et al., 2019).

Main Purposes and Benefits of Mulching

A mulch layer, whether organic or synthetic, creates a special microclimate in the root zone, providing the plant with several important advantages:

1. Moisture retention. Mulch prevents water evaporation from the soil surface, allowing roots to obtain moisture more steadily and evenly. This is especially important for strawberries with their shallow root system. Studies show that mulching significantly improves water use efficiency (Sharma et al., 2019).

2. Weed suppression. Dark or opaque types of mulch (black film, thick layer of straw) block light from reaching weed seeds, drastically reducing their germination and growth. This significantly eases maintenance and saves gardener time (Kour & Charak, 2019).

3. Soil temperature regulation. Mulch acts as a thermal insulator: it protects roots from overheating in summer heat and from freezing in winter cold. Depending on the colour and material, one can even deliberately influence spring soil warming (Sharma et al., 2019).

4. Protection of berries from soiling and diseases. The mulch layer (especially straw or film) creates a barrier between ripening berries and the soil, where pathogens such as grey mould (Botrytis cinerea) and phytophthora reside (Sharma et al., 2019; Bianchi, 2018). This allows harvesting clean berries and significantly reduces yield losses from rots.

All existing mulching materials can be divided into two large groups: organic and synthetic.

Organic Materials

Organic mulches include straw, hay, mown grass, leaf litter, wood shavings, compost, manure, peat, etc. They have their pros and cons.

Advantages:

• Improving soil structure. Decomposing organic mulch enriches the topsoil with humus, making it more loose, aerated, and fertile (Sharma et al., 2019).
• Availability. In many regions (e.g., countries with developed grain farming), straw is the most accessible and inexpensive material.
• Gradual nutrition. Decomposition of organic matter provides plants with additional nutrients in a slow, available form.

Disadvantages and limitations:

• Weed seeds. Low‑quality hay and straw may contain many weed seeds that will germinate and create extra problems (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Fragility and need for renewal. The organic layer eventually compacts, decomposes, and loses its properties, so it must be regularly replenished.
• May be a source of disease. Wet organic matter is a favourable environment for fungi, although at the same time it protects berries from contact with soil.

The ideal organic mulch for strawberries is clean wheat, oat, or rye straw. It is important to use straw rather than hay, as hay contains many weed seeds (Bianchi, 2018; Hill & Perry, 2011). Straw does not compact, allows good air circulation, and does not overheat.

Synthetic Materials (Polyethylene Film)

In commercial and amateur strawberry growing, synthetic mulching films, especially polyethylene, are becoming increasingly widespread. Unlike organics, they do not decompose and can last several seasons (Sharma et al., 2019; Bianchi, 2018).

Main advantages:

• Effective weed control. Opaque black film almost completely suppresses weed growth.
• Moisture retention. Film significantly reduces evaporation.
• Berry cleanliness and disease protection. Berries do not touch the soil, minimising the risk of grey mould and other pathogens.
• Earlier ripening. Dark film promotes faster soil warming in spring, accelerating vegetation and enabling early harvests (Bianchi, 2018).

Limitations and considerations:

• Cost and disposal. Film requires financial outlay for purchase and, more importantly, for disposal, as it does not biodegrade.
• Risk of overheating. In hot climates, black film can overheat the soil, which is harmful for some varieties. In such cases, white or reflective (silver) film is used, which reflects sunlight and prevents overheating (Sharma et al., 2019; Bianchi, 2018).
• Difficulty in applying fertilisers. It is difficult to apply organic or mineral fertilisers under film without a fertigation system (irrigation with fertilisers). However, this limitation is often compensated by drip irrigation, which combines perfectly with film mulching (Bianchi, 2018).

Effect of Film Colour

It turns out that the colour of mulching film plays an important role. This is because plants perceive not only light intensity but also its spectral composition.

• Black film. The most popular and versatile option. It warms the soil well in spring and suppresses weeds excellently (Sharma et al., 2019).
• Clear film. Provides maximum soil warming due to the greenhouse effect, but does not suppress weeds, which may start growing beneath it. Requires herbicides or pre‑treatment (Sharma et al., 2019).
• White or silver (reflective) film. Used in hot climates to reflect sunlight, prevent soil overheating, and repel pests such as aphids, which are deterred by reflected light (Sharma et al., 2019).
• Red or yellow film. These colours can alter the spectrum of reflected light, which, according to some data, stimulates growth and improves berry flavour (Sharma et al., 2019). They reflect more red and far‑red light, to which the plant responds by allocating more resources to fruit development. For example, studies showed that berries grown on red mulch increased in size by 20% and had improved flavour due to higher sugar and aromatic compound content (Kasperbauer, 2000; Kasperbauer et al., 2001).

Choosing the type of mulch is essentially choosing a strategy. Organic mulch offers long‑term benefits for soil health, while synthetic provides maximum control over weeds, moisture, and microclimate for one or several seasons. Often in practice these approaches are combined: black film is used for the row, while the inter‑rows are mulched with straw or other organic materials. This allows obtaining all the benefits of both methods while saving money and labour.

4. Weed Control

Weeds are among the most serious competitors of strawberries. Due to their shallow root system and relatively slow growth in the first year, strawberries tolerate weed presence very poorly. Weeds deprive them of light, water, and nutrients, and may also serve as shelter for pests and disease agents. Research shows that uncontrolled weed growth during the season can reduce strawberry yields by 51% (Kour & Charak, 2019). Therefore, weed control is one of the most important care tasks.

Why Are Weeds So Dangerous?

Strawberries are a low‑growing crop, and tall weeds can shade them. But the main problem lies in the roots. Weeds, especially aggressive ones like couch grass, sow thistle, or bindweed, have powerful and deep root systems. They extract water and nutrients from deeper layers, while actively competing with strawberry shallow roots for moisture and nutrients in the topsoil. Moreover, many weeds are carriers of viruses and fungal diseases (e.g., Verticillium wilt) that can infect strawberries (Kour & Charak, 2019; Bowling, 2000).

Control Strategy: An Integrated Approach

Effective weed control requires an integrated approach that includes preventive, mechanical, and chemical methods (Kour & Charak, 2019). The main principle is not to allow weeds to set seed. One flowering weed can produce thousands of seeds that will contaminate the bed for years.

1. Prevention: The Best Defence

The most reliable way to avoid weed problems is to prevent their emergence. This is achieved by several means:

• Thorough soil preparation before planting. A year before planting strawberries, it is recommended to destroy all weeds by repeated digging or by using non‑selective herbicides (e.g., glyphosate‑based) a few weeks before planting. This helps eliminate rhizomes of perennial weeds like couch grass or sow thistle (Kour & Charak, 2019; Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003).
• Use clean planting material and mulch. Weeds often enter the plot with plants, soil on roots, or mulch. It is crucial to buy seedlings with clean root systems and use high‑quality straw free of weed seeds (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Observe crop rotation. Growing strawberries after cereals (wheat, maize) or green manures that suppress weeds significantly reduces their numbers (Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003).

2. Mechanical Methods: A Reliable Care Foundation

• Hand weeding. This is the most labour‑intensive but also the most precise method. It is especially important in the first year after planting, when plants are still weak. Weeding is best done after rain or watering, when the soil is moist, making it easier to remove weeds with roots (Kour & Charak, 2019).
• Regular inter‑row cultivation. In row spacing, weeds are effectively destroyed by cultivation. It should be done regularly, not allowing weeds to spread. It is important to remember that in rows, cultivation must be shallow (no deeper than 3–4 cm) to avoid damaging strawberry roots (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Mowing. In some cases, e.g., on nursery plantations or in inter‑rows, mowing can be used to prevent flowering and seed production of weeds (Kour & Charak, 2019).

3. Mulching: The Main Weapon

The ideal way to control weeds is mulching. As we discussed in the previous chapter, a thick layer of organic mulch (straw, wood chips) or opaque polyethylene film (especially black) almost completely suppresses weed growth by blocking light from seeds (Sharma et al., 2019; Bianchi, 2018).

4. Chemical Methods (Herbicides)

In large farms or on heavily infested plots, herbicides can be used. However, for the amateur gardener, this is usually a last resort. If you do decide to use chemicals, remember a few rules:

• Use only selective herbicides. There are products that kill weeds but do not harm strawberries. For example, herbicides based on sethoxydim or clethodim effectively control grass weeds (couch grass, millet, etc.) without damaging the crop (Kour & Charak, 2019).
• Strictly follow the instructions. Exceeding dosage or incorrect application timing can lead to suppression or even death of strawberry plants.
• Apply herbicides with caution. Preference should be given to products with short waiting periods and low toxicity. Always use personal protective equipment.

Thus, the weed control strategy is built on several levels: from thorough soil preparation and proper mulching to regular weeding and, as a last resort, spot application of herbicides. Regular observation of the plot and timely weed removal are the keys to the health and high productivity of your strawberries.

5. Runner Removal: When Necessary and When Kept for Propagation

Runners (stolons) are long leafless shoots that strawberries produce in summer. They serve for vegetative propagation: daughter rosettes form at the nodes of runners, which, when in contact with moist soil, root and give rise to new plants (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Dankov, 2015). One plant can produce from 10 to 30 runners with several rosettes each during a season (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). This is a remarkable ability, but it requires proper management, otherwise it can turn into a yield reduction.

Why Remove Runners?

On fruiting plantations, where the goal is to get maximum berries, runners must be removed regularly. There are good reasons for this:

1. Redistribution of plant energy. The formation and growth of runners consume huge amounts of nutrients and moisture. If the plant is allowed to spend resources on reproduction, it will have less energy for berry formation and ripening, as well as for flower bud initiation for the next season (Bianchi, 2018). By removing runners, we direct all the plant’s energy to fruiting.

2. Preventing overcrowding. If runners are not removed, new rosettes root, and plantings quickly turn into a dense “carpet”. Under such conditions, plants compete with each other for light, water, and nutrients. This leads to:

• smaller berries;
• lower total yield;
• poorer air circulation, increasing the risk of fungal diseases, especially grey mould (Bowling, 2000; Hill & Perry, 2011).

3. Easier maintenance and harvesting. In sparse, well‑aerated plantings, weeding, loosening, and, most importantly, berry picking are easier – the berries are larger, cleaner, and more visible (Bianchi, 2018).

When and How to Remove Runners?

Runner removal is not a one‑time operation but a regular process. Runners begin to grow actively after flowering and especially intensively after harvest (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Therefore, it is important to remove them systematically throughout the growing season, especially from June to August. It is recommended to inspect plantings and cut or pinch off runners every 1–2 weeks. Do not let runners grow longer than 5–10 cm – the earlier you remove them, the fewer resources the plant wasted.

It is best to remove runners with secateurs or sharp scissors to avoid damaging the mother plant. Do not simply pull them off by hand, as you might uproot the plant. Cut the runner as close to the base of the plant as possible, leaving a small stub (about 1 cm). If you use mats or dark film, runners often cannot root and dry up on their own, simplifying the task.

When Are Runners Kept for Propagation?

Despite being a nuisance on fruiting plantations, runners are the main and most reliable way to propagate strawberries for planting material. For this, special mother beds are set aside, where the main goal is not to obtain berries but to produce the maximum number of healthy, vigorous rosettes.

On such beds, runners are not removed but rather encouraged. To obtain quality seedlings, several rules are followed:

• use only super‑elite and elite plants, free from viruses and diseases (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003);
• remove flower stalks so that all nutrients go to runner and rosette growth;
• keep only first‑ and second‑order rosettes – they are the strongest and most productive. Subsequent rosettes (third and fourth order) are often weak and unsuitable for establishing productive plantations (Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003);
• peg or guide runners so that rosettes root in the desired place (e.g., in separate containers or in special beds for further growing).

Rosettes separated from the mother plant should have a well‑developed root system (at least 5–7 cm) and 2–3 true leaves (Kurennoi et al., 1985). The best time for rooting runners is the second half of summer (July–August), so that young plants have time to strengthen before winter.

Thus, the approach to runners depends on your goal: on fruiting plantations they are mercilessly removed, saving plant energy for the harvest; in mother beds they are used to obtain healthy, strong seedlings. Understanding this principle is one of the keys to a successful strawberry enterprise.

6. Post‑Harvest Care: Removing Old Leaves, Sanitary Measures, and Plant Recovery

Harvest is not the end of the season but its turning point. After the last berries are picked, a critically important stage begins, which directly determines how abundant next year’s harvest will be. After fruiting, strawberries enter a second wave of root growth and, most importantly, flower bud initiation for the next year (August–October) (Dankov, 2015; Kurennoi et al., 1985). That is why care during this period is aimed at helping plants recover strength, grow healthy foliage, and set the maximum number of fruit buds.

The main tasks of post‑harvest care are:

• rejuvenation and sanitisation of plants;
• restoration of soil nutrient status;
• prevention of diseases and pests.

Removing Old Leaves (Mowing)

This is one of the most effective and common practices, but it has its nuances. Old, exhausted leaves lose their photosynthetic activity, become susceptible to diseases, and can serve as a source of infection (leaf spots, powdery mildew) (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).

When mandatory:

Mowing (or pruning) leaves is strongly recommended:

• when plants are heavily affected by diseases (especially leaf spots and powdery mildew) (Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003);
• when there is significant infestation by strawberry mites, which hide at the bases of young leaves (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012);
• on plantations older than two years, where the leaf apparatus has grown excessively and become dense (Hill & Perry, 2011).

How and when to do it:

Mowing is best done immediately after fruiting ends (in the middle zone – late July to early August). Leaves are mown at a height of 4–6 cm from the soil level, taking care not to damage the crown (apical bud) (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). It is important that after mowing no cut leaves remain on the site – they should be raked and either burned or removed from the plot to destroy pests and disease spores that have accumulated on them (Kurennoi et al., 1985). After mowing, the bed must be watered and, if necessary, fertilised to stimulate the growth of new healthy leaves.

When NOT recommended:

Mowing is contraindicated:

• on mother plantations, where the goal is to obtain runners;
• on weak, poorly developed plantings or after a dry summer;
• too late (in September), because new leaves will not have time to grow before winter, and plants will go into winter weakened (Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003).
• remontant varieties that continue fruiting until autumn should be mown only after fruiting has completely finished.

Important: Mowing is not a mandatory annual procedure for all. If plants are healthy, have strong green foliage, and are not overcrowded, you can limit yourself to removing only old, yellowed, and diseased leaves. The decision to mow should be based on the condition of the plantings.

Sanitary Measures and Plant Recovery

Besides mowing, the post‑harvest complex includes:

1. Loosening and hilling. After harvest, the soil becomes compacted. Loosen the inter‑rows and around the bushes to provide oxygen to the roots. If the root collar has become exposed (common in older bushes), you can lightly hill the plants, but without burying the crown (Bowling, 2000).

2. Fertilising. Strawberries have removed a large amount of nutrients with the crop and leaves. They need to replenish reserves. At this time, nitrogen is especially important for stimulating new leaf growth, but do not forget phosphorus and potassium, which are necessary for flower bud initiation and winter hardiness (Bianchi, 2018). It is recommended to apply complex fertilisers or organics (manure, compost). Application rates: 5–6 kg of complex fertiliser (e.g., 10:10:10) per 100 row metres, or 20–30 t/ha of manure (Bianchi, 2018; Bowling, 2000).

3. Watering. Even after harvest, strawberries need regular watering, especially in dry weather. It is during this period that flower buds are set, and moisture deficit can lead to a sharp reduction in next year’s crop. Water abundantly but infrequently, so that the soil is soaked to a depth of 20–30 cm (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).

4. Pest and disease control. After removing old leaves and fertilising, plants become more vulnerable to pests. At this time, preventive treatments with biological or permitted chemical products (e.g., against strawberry mite or weevil) can and should be carried out (Bowling, 2000; Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003).

Thus, proper post‑harvest care is not just “cleaning up the area” but a whole set of measures aimed at restoring plant strength and shaping the future harvest. Neglecting this stage risks getting weak, diseased plants and a poor crop next season.

7. Preparing for Adverse Conditions: Frost, Heat, Drought, and Heavy Rainfall

Strawberries are a crop that, due to their biological characteristics, are very sensitive to extreme weather conditions. Their shallow root system and delicate leaves, flowers, and berries make plants vulnerable to frost, heat, drought, and waterlogging. Proper preparation for these stress factors is a crucial part of care, helping to preserve plants and obtain a stable yield.

Winter Frosts and Protection

Strawberries are not fully winter‑hardy: their above‑ground parts can die at air temperatures of –15…–18 °C, and unprotected roots at –8 °C in the root zone (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). Reliable protection is a snow cover of 20–25 cm or more, under which plants can tolerate short frosts down to –30 °C (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Basic rules for winter preparation:

1. Autumn moisture‑charging irrigation. If autumn is dry, in October carry out abundant watering (800–1000 m³/ha) to saturate the soil to a depth of 30–40 cm. Moist soil freezes more slowly and retains heat better, protecting the root system (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).

2. Winter mulching. To protect against freezing, use covering materials:

• Straw. A classic and reliable option. A layer of straw 10–15 cm thick (about 4–6 t/ha) holds snow well and protects plants. Use clean straw free of weed seeds (Bianchi, 2018; Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Spruce branches (conifer boughs). An excellent material for snow retention. They do not compact, allow good air circulation, and do not promote damping off.
• Non‑woven cover materials (agrofabric, spunbond). A modern solution. Lightweight, breathable materials provide additional frost protection and allow plants to “breathe”, reducing the risk of damping off (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Leaf litter, peat, manure. Can also be used, but with caution: leaves may harbour diseases, and peat and manure may compact and promote damping off if the layer is too dense.

3. Timing of covering. It is very important not to cover strawberries too early. Plants must go through natural hardening, so covering is done when stable night frosts set in (about –5 °C) and the soil begins to freeze to a depth of 3–5 cm (usually late November – December) (Dankov, 2015). Too early covering can lead to damping off.

4. Spring uncovering. Uncover gradually, as soon as the snow melts and the threat of severe return frosts passes. Delaying uncovering can also lead to damping off and weakening of plants. The removed straw or agrofabric can be used as mulch in inter‑rows during summer (Hill & Perry, 2011).

Spring Frosts

Flowers and young ovaries of strawberries are very sensitive to frost. Flowers are damaged at –1 °C, and ovaries at –2 °C (Bowling, 2000). Damaged flowers have a black centre and do not produce berries.

Protection methods against spring frosts:

1. Cover material. The most reliable method for small plots. At night, cover beds with agrofabric, old sheets, film, or layers of newspaper. Covering creates a temperature difference of 1–3 °C, often saving flowers.

2. Sprinkling. This method is used on an industrial scale. During frost, fine sprinkling is turned on all night. When water freezes, it releases heat (heat of crystallisation), which protects flowers. Turn on water when temperature drops to 0 °C, and turn off only in the morning when ice begins to thaw (Bowling, 2000). For small plots, this method is labour‑intensive but effective.

3. Variety selection. In regions with frequent spring frosts, preference is given to later varieties that flower after the main cold spells have passed.

Heat and Drought

Strawberries tolerate high temperatures and moisture deficit poorly. The optimal temperature for growth and fruiting is 15–20 °C; above 25 °C, growth slows, berries become smaller and lose flavour (Mandal et al., 2021). The root system suffers from overheating, especially on black mulch.

How to help plants in heat:

1. Regular watering. In hot weather, strawberries need frequent watering (at least 1–2 times a week). Water abundantly (30–40 L/m²) so that water penetrates to a depth of 20–30 cm, where the main roots are. Shallow watering only worsens the situation by stimulating root growth near the surface.

2. Mulching. Reflective mulching materials (white, silver, or yellow film) reflect sunlight, protecting soil and roots from overheating. Organic mulch (straw, mown grass) also lowers soil temperature and retains moisture.

3. Shading. In the hottest regions, light shading (agro‑fabric, shading nets) can be used, especially during midday hours.

4. Sprinkling on hot days helps lower air temperature and increase humidity, easing plant respiration. But do this in the morning or evening to avoid leaf sunburn.

Heavy Rainfall and Waterlogging

Strawberries cannot tolerate standing water. Excess moisture leads to root rot and development of fungal diseases, especially grey mould (Botrytis cinerea), which can destroy up to 50% of the crop (Bianchi, 2018; Bowling, 2000).

What to do:

1. Site selection. It is best to plant strawberries on well‑drained, elevated sites. If the soil is heavy clay, make raised beds or mounds to prevent water stagnation around roots (Bianchi, 2018).

2. Drainage. If necessary, dig drainage ditches to divert excess water.

3. Rain protection. In regions with frequent heavy rainfall, use plastic tunnels or high tunnels made of polyethylene or agrofabric, which protect plants from direct rain and thus from the spread of grey mould and other diseases (Mandal et al., 2021).

4. Film mulching. Using film (especially black) protects the soil from waterlogging, as rainwater runs off the surface without penetrating to the roots. However, in severe drought, the soil under film may overheat, requiring additional watering.

Thus, protecting strawberries from adverse weather requires an integrated approach: from correct site and variety selection to timely application of covers, irrigation, and drainage. Regular weather monitoring and proactive actions are the best strategy for preserving the harvest.

8. Seasonal Care Calendar

Caring for strawberries is not a set of isolated activities but a logically structured system that follows the annual development cycle of the plant. To help the gardener not miss anything, we have combined all key practices into a single seasonal calendar. It serves as a handy cheat sheet, but always adjust it according to the weather conditions of your region and the state of your plants.

Spring: Awakening and Start

Spring’s main tasks are to help plants start growing quickly, protect them from return frosts, and create the foundation for yield formation.

Early spring (as soon as snow melts):

• Remove winter cover. Open plants so they do not damp off. Do this in a timely manner, but not too early to avoid freezing flower buds (Hill & Perry, 2011; Dankov, 2015). Use removed straw or agrofabric as mulch in inter‑rows.
• Sanitary cleaning. Collect and burn dry and diseased last year’s leaves – they are a source of infection (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• First loosening. As soon as the soil dries, carry out shallow loosening (3–5 cm) to break soil crust and conserve moisture (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Fertilising. Apply nitrogen fertiliser (e.g., ammonium nitrate or urea) to stimulate green mass growth. Use 10–15 g of urea per 1 m² (Bianchi, 2018).

Budding and flowering period (usually May):

• Frost protection. Monitor weather forecasts closely. If night frosts threaten, use cover material (agrofabric) or, for small plots, cover beds with film, newspapers, or cloth (Bowling, 2000).
• Watering. Water if necessary, especially in dry weather. Try to avoid getting water on flowers and leaves to prevent grey mould. Drip irrigation is best.
• Pest control. Inspect plantings for aphids, weevils, and strawberry mites. If infestation is significant, use approved biologicals or insecticides, but strictly before flowering to avoid harming bees and bumblebees (Bowling, 2000).

Summer: Growth, Fruiting, and Setting the Future Crop

Summer care is divided into two stages: before and after berry picking.

Flowering and berry ripening period (late May – July):

• Watering. Ensure regular and abundant watering (at least once a week). Lack of moisture during this period leads to smaller berries and reduced yield (Bianchi, 2018).
• Harvesting. Pick berries regularly (every 1–2 days), in the morning when they are dry. This prevents overripening and rot development (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Bird protection. Use nets or other deterrents if necessary.
• Runner removal. On fruiting plantations remove runners regularly (every 1–2 weeks) so that all plant energy goes to fruits (Bianchi, 2018). On mother beds keep runners for propagation (Kirtbaya & Shcheglov, 2003).

After harvest (late July – August):

• Mowing leaves (if needed). If plants are heavily overgrown or affected by diseases, mow leaves at 4–6 cm height. After mowing, rake and burn all cut leaves (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Fertilising. Feed plants with a complex fertiliser (nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium) to stimulate new leaf growth and flower bud initiation (Bianchi, 2018).
• Loosening and watering. Continue loosening and watering beds, especially in dry weather. This is when next year’s crop is being set.
• Continue removing runners on fruiting plantations so they do not weaken plants (Hill & Perry, 2011).

Autumn: Preparing for Winter

Autumn tasks are aimed at helping plants accumulate strength for wintering and set as many flower buds as possible.

September–October:

• Apply potassium‑phosphorus fertilisers. To increase winter hardiness and strengthen roots. Do not apply nitrogen at this time, as it stimulates growth (Bianchi, 2018).
• Moisture‑charging watering. If autumn is dry, carry out abundant watering (30–40 L/m²) to saturate the soil to 30–40 cm depth (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Disease prevention. Treat plantings against fungal diseases (e.g., 1% Bordeaux mixture) if necessary.

November–December (after stable cold weather sets in):

• Winter mulching. Cover beds with a layer of straw, spruce branches, or agrofabric. Layer thickness – 10–15 cm. The main thing is to do this before severe frosts but after plants have undergone natural hardening (Dankov, 2015). Do not cover too early to avoid damping off.

Winter: Dormancy

In winter, strawberries are dormant, but there are still a few important tasks:

• Snow retention. If winter is low‑snow, throw extra snow onto the beds. This reliably protects plants from freezing.
• Check cover. Ensure that cover material is not blown away by wind. If necessary, weigh it down with something heavy.
• Planning. In winter, you can calmly analyse the results of the past season, choose new varieties, buy seeds and fertilisers, and plan future plantings.

Cheat Sheet Table: Main Tasks by Month

This calendar is not a rigid plan but a flexible guide. Weather may introduce adjustments, but knowing the key “milestones” in the annual cycle of strawberries and responding promptly to nature’s signals is the main guarantee of plant health and a rich harvest.

References

1. (2003). ‘Strawberries’, in Cornell Guide to Growing Fruit at Home. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Cooperative Extension, pp. 54-64.
2. Awasthi, O.P., Kumar, S. (2019). ‘Special Cultural Practices’, in Strawberries. Boca Raton, FL : CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, 2019.: CRC Press, 359-363.
3. Bianchi, P.G. (2018). ‘Técnicas de cultivo’, in Guía completa del cultivo de las fresas. Ireland: Editorial De Vecchi, S. A., pp. 20-45.
4. Bowling, B.L. (2000). ‘Strawberries’, in The Berry Grower's Companion. London, UK: Timber Press, pp. 57-92.
5. Hill, L., Perry, L. (2011). ‘Seasonal Care of Fruits and Nuts’, in The Fruit Gardener’s Bible. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, pp. 37-45.
6. Hill, L., Perry, L. (2011). ‘Strawberries’, in The Fruit Gardener’s Bible. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, pp. 46-62.
7. Kour, M., Charak, A.S. (2019). ‘Weed Management’, in Strawberries. Boca Raton, FL : CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, 2019.: CRC Press, 269-287.
8. Pramanick, K.K., Kashyap, P. (2019). ‘Protected Cultivation’, in Strawberries. Boca Raton, FL : CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, 2019.: CRC Press, 365-372.
9. Quintero-Arias, G., Vargas, J., Acuña-Caita, J.F., Valenzuela, J.L. (2021). ‘Strawberry’, in Mandal, D., Wermund, U., Phavaphutanon, L., Cronje, R. (ed.) Temperate Fruits. Production, Processing, and Marketing. Burlington, Canada: Apple Academic Press, pp. 449-490.
10. Singh, S.K., Kalal, P., Kumar, P. (2019). ‘Mulching’, in Strawberries. Boca Raton, FL : CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, 2019.: CRC Press, 289-300.
11. Даньков, В.Васильевич., Скрипниченко, М.Михайловна., Логинова, С.Федоровна., Горбачёва, Н.Николаевна., Щербакова, Г.Васильевна., Долженко, Т.Васильевна. (2015). ‘Земляника [Strawberry]’, in Ягодные культуры [Berry crops]. Санкт-Петербург: Лань, pp. 36-51.
12. Киртбая, Е.К., Щеглов, С.Н. (2003). ‘Возделывание земляники [Cultivation of strawberries]’, in Земляника [Strawberries]. Краснодар: Северо-Кавказский зональный НИИ садоводства и виноградарства, pp. 44-77.
13. Куренной, Н.М. (1985). ‘Культура ягодных растений [Berry plant culture]’, in Плодоводство [Fruit growing]. Москва: Агропромиздат, pp. 337-385.
14. Трунов, Ю.В., Самощенков, Е.Г., Дорошенко, Т.Н. (2012). ‘Ягодные культуры [Berry crops]’, in Плодоводство [Fruit growing]. Москва: КолосС, pp. 386-412.