Pruning and Training

What Are Suckers?

A sucker is a lateral shoot that develops from the leaf axil—the point where the leaf blade attaches to the stem. Each tomato leaf has a bud in its axil that, under favorable conditions, begins to grow and gives rise to a new shoot. These shoots are the suckers (Гавриш, 2005; Ноннеке, 1989).

Distinguishing a sucker from a flower cluster is very simple:

• Sucker – is a stem with leaves that grows from the leaf axil and has its own growing point.
• Flower cluster – is an inflorescence that appears directly from the stem (often in the leaf axil but immediately with buds); it has no leaves (or they are very small, reduced) (Котов и др., 2016).

At the initial stage, a sucker can be seen as a small "sprout" between the main stem and the leaf petiole. If it is not removed, it will turn into a full-fledged stem that will flower, bear fruit, and, in turn, produce its own suckers. This turns the plant into a dense, highly branching bush.

Why Remove Suckers?

The main goal of removing suckers is to redirect the plant's limited resources from growing green mass to the formation and ripening of fruits. Here are four key reasons:

1. Competition for assimilates. Each sucker creates a new growing point (meristem) that consumes sugars produced by the leaves. As a result, the fruits receive less nutrition. The more suckers, the more they "draw" energy to themselves, delaying ripening and reducing fruit weight (Свайдер, 1992; Велбаум, 2015).

2. Delayed ripening. If you don't sucker, the plant spends time and energy growing additional shoots, which pushes back the start of fruiting. In regions with short summers, this is critical. Research shows that when trained to a single stem with 2–4 trusses left, fruits ripen 15–25 days earlier than on un-suckered plants (Котов и др., 2016).

3. Reduced lighting and ventilation. A dense bush creates shade; the leaves of the lower tiers receive little light and stop photosynthesizing efficiently. Additionally, moist air stagnates in the dense canopy, creating ideal conditions for the development of fungal diseases (late blight, gray mold, cladosporiosis) (Хьювелинг, 2018; Кубота и др., 2018).

4. Deterioration of fruit quality. On a plant overloaded with suckers, the fruits become smaller, more watery, and lose sugar content and aroma. The plant simply lacks the resources to "feed" all the fruits to maturity.

When and How to Remove Suckers?

Optimal time: Suckers are removed when they reach 2–5 cm in length, ideally 3–4 cm. At this point, they have not yet begun to actively consume resources, they are easy to remove, and the wound on the stem heals quickly and almost painlessly for the plant (Гавриш, 2005). If you let a sucker overgrow (10–15 cm), it has already "drawn" a noticeable share of nutrition, and its removal will injure the plant more severely—leaving a larger wound that takes longer to heal.

Frequency: Suckering should be done regularly—every 5–7 days, and during periods of active growth (in a greenhouse or hot weather), even 2–3 times a week. Do not let the plants get out of control: in a week, suckers can grow 10–15 cm or more.

Removal technique:

• By hand (fingers). Using your index finger and thumb, grasp the sucker at its very base (next to the stem) and, with a sharp but careful motion, break it off to the side (do not pull it up or down). With this method, the wound is punctate and heals quickly (Котов и др., 2016).
• Using tools (scissors, pruners). If the suckers have overgrown, it is better to use a sharp, disinfected tool. Cut the sucker as close to the stem as possible, being careful not to damage it. Wipe the scissors periodically with alcohol or a potassium permanganate solution to prevent the spread of infections (especially in the greenhouse).

Important: Suckers are removed down to the base, leaving no "stumps." A left stump can rot or produce a new shoot. Also, it is not recommended to break off suckers in wet, rainy weather or early in the morning when the plants are still wet with dew—this increases the risk of fungal infection. The best time is a dry, sunny morning so that the cut sites dry out faster (Ноннеке, 1989).

What to do with removed suckers: Do not throw them in the rows or under the bushes, as they can become a source of disease and attract pests. Collected suckers should be removed from the site or put into compost (provided the plants are healthy). In a greenhouse, it is especially important to remove plant debris immediately to avoid creating sources of infection.

Which Suckers Can Be Left?

In some training schemes (for example, when growing in 2 or 3 stems), we deliberately leave one or two of the strongest suckers—usually those growing from the leaf axils directly below the first truss or just above it. These suckers have the greatest growth energy and can form full-fledged additional stems that will also produce a crop (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

Remember: Suckering is not a one-time procedure but regular care throughout the growing season. Even if you decide to form a bush into several stems, all extra suckers that appear on these stems must be removed promptly. This is the basic rule for obtaining large, sweet, and early fruits.

1. Indeterminate ("Unlimited Growth")

How they grow: The main stem grows continuously, without natural limitation. It ends not with a flower cluster but with a leaf and a new growing point. Flower clusters are set every 3–4 leaves (on average). During the season, such a stem can reach 2–3 meters in height or more. Side shoots (suckers) produce many new stems in the absence of training (Котов и др., 2016; Велбаум, 2015).

Characteristics:

• The first cluster forms high up—after the 9th–11th leaf (sometimes higher).
• Between clusters, there are 3 or more leaves.
• The plant does not stop growing on its own; it must either be pinched or lowered (in greenhouses, lowered along a trellis).
• Most tall greenhouse hybrids are indeterminate.

How to train:

• Train strictly to 1 stem (remove all suckers), less often—with high light levels—leave a second stem to increase yield (but this requires more space and nutrition).
• Pinch the growing point only when the plant no longer has time for the fruits on the upper clusters to ripen (30–40 days before the end of the growing season) or when the plant reaches the height limit in the greenhouse.
• In southern regions and heated greenhouses, indeterminates can produce a crop for 6–8 months or more with continuous lowering of the stem (in greenhouse culture).

For whom: For greenhouses, high tunnels, and southern regions with long summers. For open ground in the middle belt—risky, as fruits on the upper clusters often do not have time to ripen before the cold weather.

2. Determinate ("Limited Growth")

How they grow: The main stem, after forming a certain number of flower clusters (usually 4–6), terminates in a cluster—a terminal inflorescence. After that, the growth of the main stem stops. However, suckers then begin to grow actively, especially from the upper axils, and the bush takes on a characteristic "bushy" form (Гавриш, 2005; Ноннеке, 1989).

Characteristics:

• The first cluster is set relatively low—after the 7th–9th leaf.
• Between clusters, there are 1–2 leaves; clusters often follow almost in succession.
• The plant itself "terminates" the main stem with a flower cluster.
• After this, the suckers produce abundant growth, and without training, the bush becomes very sprawling.

How to train:

• In open ground and low greenhouses, determinates are often grown in 2–3 stems, leaving 1–2 of the strongest suckers directly below the first cluster (or above it). This allows for more clusters and extended fruiting.
• Be sure to pinch all other suckers. Also, pinch second-order side shoots, leaving 1–2 leaves and one cluster on each (the "several stems" training scheme).
• Pinching the apical points on each stem can be done after 4–6 clusters if you need to speed up ripening.
• For determinate varieties, it is not recommended to grow them in a single stem—this will reduce the potential yield, as they have a limited number of clusters.

For whom: For open ground, cold frames, low tunnels, and regions with moderate summers. Determinates are the most commonly recommended for amateur gardeners.

3. Semi-determinate ("Intermediate")

How they grow: This is an intermediate type. The main stem continues to grow longer than determinates but may or may not eventually terminate in a cluster (after 8–10 or more clusters). The first cluster is set high—after the 9th–10th leaf, between clusters there are 2–3 leaves. In terms of growth habit, they are closer to indeterminates but have a weakly expressed limitation (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

Characteristics:

• Stem growth continues for a long time, but there is a tendency for self-termination.
• Clusters are spaced 2–3 leaves apart.
• Suckering is less intense than in determinates.

How to train:

• In open ground and greenhouses, they can be grown in 1 stem (like indeterminates), sometimes leaving 1–2 suckers in the lower part for extra yield.
• Pinching of the growing point is done as needed, similar to indeterminates, but keeping in mind that the plant may stop on its own.
• Important: Semi-determinates are often used as an alternative to indeterminates in short-season conditions, as they can set enough fruit before the cold weather arrives but produce more clusters than determinates.

For whom: For greenhouses and high tunnels, and for regions where the summer is long enough but not year-round. Among modern hybrids for protected ground, many are semi-determinate.

4. Super-determinate (Ultra-early, Dwarf)

How they grow: These are very compact plants that form only 2–3 flower clusters on the main stem, after which it terminates in a cluster. Bush growth occurs mainly through suckers, but overall the plant remains small. The first cluster appears very early—after the 5th–7th leaf, and subsequent clusters often follow almost one after another (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

How to train:

• Super-determinates usually do not require suckering or are suckered only to a limited extent. They are grown in 2–4 stems, using their natural branching.
• Pinching is often not done, or the growing points on the suckers are removed after 1–2 clusters to speed up ripening.
• Important: Super-determinates are an ideal choice for harsh climates with short summers, for windowsills, balconies, and container growing.

For whom: For open ground with a short growing season, for those who want the earliest fruits, and for container growing.

Practical Conclusion: How to Determine the Growth Type from the Variety or Hybrid?

1. Indeterminate – always indicated on the package as "indeterminate," "tall," "for greenhouses," "for extended season." In such varieties, the first cluster is above the 9th–10th leaf.

2. Determinate – often labeled as "determinate," "short," "for open ground," "bush." First cluster – 7th–8th leaf.

3. Semi-determinate – not always clearly labeled, but descriptions like "tall but limited growth," "medium height" indicate it.

4. Super-determinate – "ultra-early," "dwarf," "standard," "for balconies."

Read the description on the seed packet carefully! If the information is insufficient, rely on the plant height and ripening time.

How Does Growth Type Affect the Choice of Training Scheme?

Thus, correctly diagnosing the growth type is the foundation for choosing a training strategy. If you make a mistake, you will either lose a significant part of your harvest (an indeterminate in 2 stems in a short summer simply won't have time to ripen) or create excessive density (a determinate without suckering will turn into a "jungle" with small fruits).

Now that you know how to determine the growth type, let's move on to specific training schemes—how to grow the plant in 1, 2, and 3 stems to maximize yield depending on your conditions. Ready for the next section "5. Training Schemes"?

Basic Principles Common to All Schemes

Before moving on to specific options, remember three universal rules:

1. The first sucker left to form the second stem is the one growing directly below the first flower cluster (in the axil of the leaf located below the cluster). It is the strongest, growing at almost the same rate as the main stem. If you need a third stem, take the next sucker higher up the stem (sometimes above the first cluster) (Ноннеке, 1989; Свайдер, 1992).

2. All other suckers are removed, regardless of the scheme. This is an axiom. The regularity of removal (every 5–7 days) is critically important, especially for indeterminate and semi-determinate forms, where suckers appear constantly.

3. Removal of lower leaves (more details in section 6) is mandatory under any scheme. It improves ventilation, reduces disease risk, and redirects resources upward.

Now—the three main schemes used worldwide.

Scheme 1: Training to 1 Stem

Essence: The plant is grown as a single vertical shoot. All suckers, without exception, are removed. Flower clusters form on the main stem. Fruiting proceeds from the lower clusters to the upper ones.

For which types:

• Indeterminate — this is their "native" scheme in greenhouses and in the south. They are almost always grown in one stem, allowing the stem to grow upward to the ceiling or until the end of the season, lowering it along the trellis (Атертон и Рудич, 1986; Кубота и др., 2018).
• Semi-determinate — in open ground with long summers or in tall greenhouses, they are also often grown in one stem to obtain the maximum number of clusters (up to 8–10 or more).
• Determinate — they are grown in one stem only with very early planting and in short-season culture (for example, to obtain a super-early crop in a greenhouse). However, this reduces the overall yield potential, as the number of clusters in a determinate is limited, and by losing the suckers, you lose potential fruits (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

Advantages:

• Earliest harvest.
• Large and uniform fruits.
• Excellent lighting and ventilation of the bush.
• Ease of care (less work).

Disadvantages:

• Limited total number of clusters (compared to multi-stem schemes).
• Requires constant removal of suckers and support for the tall stem.

How to implement:

Remove all suckers as they appear (length up to 5 cm). Tie the main stem to a support (stake, trellis) every 20–30 cm. When it reaches the top of the support (or 30–40 days before the end of the season), pinch it (see section 8).

Scheme 2: Training to 2 Stems

Essence: Leave the main stem and one strong side shoot (sucker). Both stems are tied and trained vertically. Remove suckers on both stems. The number of clusters approximately doubles compared to one stem.

For which types:

• Semi-determinate — with good lighting and fertile soil, this gives an optimal combination of early and total yield.
• Determinate — this is the most common scheme for them in open ground. It allows you to get more clusters than in one stem but avoids excessive density as with 3 stems (Велбаум, 2015; Ноннеке, 1989).
• Indeterminate — in very sunny, southern regions or in greenhouses with high ceilings, two stems are sometimes practiced, but this requires more space and nutrition, and the harvest ripens later.

When to apply:

• If you have enough space (not dense planting) and the plants receive good nutrition.
• If you want to increase the total yield at the cost of some delay in ripening.

How to implement:

1. Wait for the first sucker to appear below the first flower cluster (in the axil of the leaf below the cluster). This is the strongest sucker.

2. Let this sucker grow to a length of 5–10 cm (so it starts growing strongly), but not later—otherwise it will begin to compete with the cluster.

3. Leave it as the second stem. Remove all other suckers (on both the main and the second stem) regularly.

4. Tie both stems separately to supports (or to a trellis). It is important that they do not intertwine or shade each other (Котов и др., 2016; Свайдер, 1992).

Note: the second stem will lag slightly behind the main one, but this is normal. It will yield its crop 1–2 weeks later.

Scheme 3: Training to 3 Stems

Essence: Leave the main stem and two strong suckers (usually below the first cluster and above it, or in succession). The bush becomes quite sprawling, produces a large number of clusters, but the fruits ripen later and may be smaller.

For which types:

• Determinate — in open ground, in conditions of short but warm enough summers (e.g., in the middle belt). This allows you to get the maximum number of clusters from a compact plant (Гавриш, 2005).
• Super-determinate — often they are not trained at all, and if they are, 3–4 stems are left from the natural suckers, as they are naturally short and bushy.
• Indeterminate — very rarely, only with very sparse planting and a long season (e.g., in the subtropics), but this requires enormous effort for support and pruning.

When to apply:

• When you need to get the maximum possible number of fruits from one plant, even at the cost of their size and ripening time.
• In open ground, where there is no way to increase the planting area, but you need to harvest more.
• For varieties with relatively small fruits (e.g., cherry tomatoes)—the loss in size is less noticeable.

How to implement:

1. Leave the main stem.

2. Leave the first sucker below the first cluster (the strongest) and the second sucker directly above the first cluster (or, if it is weak, take the next sucker located higher up). It is important that all three stems have enough space and light.

3. Remove all other suckers.

4. Tie each stem separately, ensuring they do not intertwine.

5. If necessary (with severe density), you can remove some leaves to improve lighting.

Important: when growing in 3 stems, be sure to increase the feeding area (distance between plants) and increase fertilization, as the load on the root system increases.

Summary Table: Growth Type → Recommended Scheme

Special Cases: Standard and Dwarf Tomatoes

Standard varieties (with thick, erect stems and short internodes) and dwarf varieties (for pots) often do not require suckering at all. They are trained as a "free bush"—remove only lower, yellowed leaves and, if necessary, thin out dense branches. This applies, for example, to varieties like "Balcony Miracle," "Pinocchio," and the like (Гавриш, 2005).

Practical Advice: How to Start Training

Do not wait until the plant reaches its full height. Start training from the moment the first true leaves appear and suckers begin to show (usually 2–3 weeks after planting the seedlings). Regularly walk through the bed, inspecting each plant. Removing a sucker 3–5 cm long takes less than a minute, while removing an overgrown shoot takes several times longer, and the injury to the plant is more severe.

Remember: the training scheme is not dogma. Depending on the weather, the condition of the plants, and your goals, you can adjust it. For example, if the summer is cool and cloudy, it is better to switch to a simpler scheme (fewer stems) to speed up ripening. If it is hot and sunny, you can leave more stems and get a larger yield.

Why Remove Leaves?

1. Improved ventilation. Lower leaves, especially in dense plantings, create a "greenhouse effect"—air stagnates, humidity rises, which promotes the development of fungal diseases: late blight, gray mold, cladosporiosis (brown spot). Removing excess leaves opens access to air for the stems and fruits (Кубота и др., 2018; Хьювелинг, 2018).

2. Improved lighting for the fruits. Fruits that are in the shade ripen more slowly, have less intense color, and fewer sugars. Sunlight hitting the fruits accelerates the synthesis of lycopene (the pigment responsible for red color) and promotes sugar accumulation (Атертон и Рудич, 1986; Свайдер, 1992).

3. Disease prevention. Lower leaves often touch the soil, get splashed with water during watering, age faster, and become "entry points" for infections. By removing them, we deprive pathogens of a convenient breeding ground (Ноннеке, 1989).

4. Redirecting resources. An old or damaged leaf photosynthesizes poorly but continues to respire and consume water and minerals. By removing it, we redirect these resources to younger leaves and fruits—more efficient consumers. Additionally, removing leaves stimulates the growth of new, more productive leaves (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

Which Leaves to Remove?

Use three main criteria:

1. Old, yellowed, or showing signs of aging. Tomato leaves live about 2–3 months. Lower leaves are the first to turn yellow, lose turgor, and become spotted. Such leaves photosynthesize poorly but serve as a "breeding ground" for diseases. Remove them first.

2. Leaves lying on the ground or touching the soil. This is the most "dangerous" tier. Contact with wet soil is a direct path to infection with late blight, alternariosis, and other pathogens. Such leaves are removed immediately after the plant has formed several clusters (Ноннеке, 1989; Свайдер, 1992).

3. Leaves that heavily shade the fruit clusters. This is especially relevant when growing plants in 2–3 stems. Leaves that directly block the fruits from the sun can be removed, even if they are still green. However, moderation is key here: if too many leaves are removed, the fruits may get sunburned (especially in hot climates). Therefore, it is usual to leave 1–2 leaves above each cluster to protect the fruits from direct scorching sun, but not to create continuous shade (Гавриш, 2005; Велбаум, 2015).

When to Remove Leaves?

1. Gradually, as they age. Leaves are not removed all at once, but 1–2 leaves per plant at a time, usually during suckering (every 5–7 days). A sudden removal of a large number of leaves causes severe stress, causing plants to drop flowers and slow growth (Котов и др., 2016).

2. Not before the first cluster has formed. In the first weeks after planting the seedlings, all leaves are needed for building vegetative mass. Removal of lower leaves begins when the fruits on the first cluster have reached the size of a pea or slightly larger (by this time, the lower leaves have already fulfilled their function of setting the cluster) (Гавриш, 2005).

3. In dry, sunny weather. It is best to remove leaves in the morning on a sunny day so that the cut sites dry quickly and there is less risk of fungal infections. In wet weather or before rain, leaf removal is not recommended.

How Many Leaves to Leave?

The number of leaves to leave on the stem depends on the development phase and the training scheme. However, there is a golden rule: the plant should have at least 12–18 full, well-lit leaves for normal photosynthesis and fruit nutrition (Кубота и др., 2018; Хьювелинг, 2018).

In practice, this means:

• Below the first ripening cluster, all leaves are gradually removed. By the time the fruits on the first cluster begin to turn red, there should be no leaves below it. This improves air and light access, accelerating ripening.
• Between clusters, usually 2–4 leaves are left, depending on planting density and lighting.
• Above the top cluster, at least 4–5 leaves are left to ensure nutrition for subsequent fruits (if you plan to continue growth).
• In hot climates (southern regions), more leaves are left to shade the fruits from sunburn. In cool or cloudy climates (north, middle belt), fewer leaves can be left to improve lighting and ripening (Ноннеке, 1989; Свайдер, 1992).

General rule: remove leaves gradually, from bottom to top, as the fruits on the lower clusters ripen. At the same time, ensure that the upper part of the plant always remains well foliated—this is where the future crop is formed.

Special Case: Leaf Removal in the Greenhouse and Open Ground

• In the greenhouse, leaf removal is a mandatory weekly practice. The greenhouse microclimate (high humidity, weak air movement) provokes diseases. Defoliation is carried out regularly, preventing thickening of the lower part of the stem. Often, greenhouse tomatoes are managed by removing all leaves below each ripening cluster, exposing the stem almost to the level of the current ripening cluster (Кубота и др., 2018; Хьювелинг, 2018).
• In open ground – a more gentle regime is used. Here, leaves suffer from wind and rain, but ventilation is also better. Remove only diseased, yellow, and leaves touching the ground. Severe exposure of the stem in open ground is not recommended, as fruits may get sunburned.

Leaf Removal Technique

• Pinching with fingers. Grasp the leaf at its base (near the stem) and, with a careful motion, break it downward, "in the direction of growth" of the petiole. Do not pull the leaf up or sideways—this can damage the stem. Do this sharply so the wound is small and heals quickly (Гавриш, 2005).
• Using pruners or scissors. If the leaf is large and sturdy, you can use a disinfected tool. Cut the petiole as close to the stem as possible, leaving no "stumps." Be sure to disinfect the blade after each plant (or at least after each row) in a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol to prevent the spread of infections (Котов и др., 2016).
• What not to do: do not tear leaves off by pulling them downward—this can strip the bark from the stem, leaving a large wound. Also, do not leave scraps of petioles—they can rot and become a source of disease.

Common Mistake: Too Early or Too Heavy Removal

Novice gardeners often fear density and remove too many leaves too early. This leads to weakened plants, dropping of flowers and ovaries, and slowed growth. Remember: leaf removal is not a goal, but a means. It works only in combination with proper suckering, staking, and adequate nutrition. Do not remove more than 2–3 leaves at a time from one plant and do not touch the young, bright green leaves in the upper part of the stem—they are needed for growth and fruit development (Велбаум, 2015; Свайдер, 1992).

Main Types of Support Structures

The choice of support depends on where you grow tomatoes (open ground, greenhouse, balcony), how many plants, and the growth type and training scheme.

Choosing Material for Tying

Staking Technique: Basic Rules

1. Start staking early. Do not wait until the stem begins to bend or break. The first staking is done when the plant reaches 30–40 cm (about 2–3 weeks after planting). This allows the stem to grow vertically from the start without curvature (Свайдер, 1992; Ноннеке, 1989).

2. Tie the stem with a loose loop. The loop should not constrict the stem, as it will thicken. Leave a gap of 1–2 cm between the loop and the stem. Use a "figure-eight" or a sliding knot that can be loosened as it grows (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

3. Tie below a leaf or a cluster. The best place for the knot is directly below a leaf or a flower cluster. Tomato internodes can be long, and if you tie in the middle of an internode, the stem may slip out or bend.

4. Tie regularly. As it grows (especially for indeterminates), the stem elongates every day by 5–10 cm. Check and tie the stems every 5–7 days, adding new loops higher up. Do not allow the stem to lie on the ground or on neighboring plants.

5. For multi-stemmed schemes, tie each stem separately. If you are growing in 2–3 stems, each stem must have its own support (its own stake or separate rope on the trellis). Do not tie two stems to one stake—they will rub against each other, get injured, and shade each other.

6. In greenhouses with tall varieties, use "lowering" of the stem. When the stem reaches the top wire (or greenhouse ceiling), it is not pinched (if there is still time for ripening) but gradually lowered by loosening the twine, and the lower part of the stem is laid on the ground (or in special gutters). At the same time, the upper part of the stem with the fruiting clusters continues to grow vertically. This method allows fruiting to be extended for several months (Кубота и др., 2018; Атертон и Рудич, 1986).

Staking Features in Open Ground and Greenhouses

• Open ground: staking must be particularly reliable, as wind and rain create additional load. Drive stakes deep (at least 40 cm), tie the twine tightly but without cutting into the stem. It is advisable to install supports before planting or immediately after to avoid damaging the roots.
• Greenhouse: here, staking serves not only for support but also for the correct distribution of plants over the area. Use a vertical trellis with twine for each stem. In modern greenhouses, special staking systems with plastic clips and adjustable tensioners are used, saving time and effort (Хьювелинг, 2018; Кубота и др., 2018).
• Balcony / windowsill: small plastic supports, bamboo sticks, or decorative grids are suitable for dwarf and standard varieties. The main thing is that they are stable and do not tip over under the weight of the fruits.

Common Staking Mistakes

1. Loop too tight – constricts the stem, disrupts sap flow, can lead to constrictions and even death of the upper part of the plant.

2. Tying at the tip of the stem – if you tie the loop at the very top growing point, stem growth may slow down. Tie 1–2 nodes below the tip.

3. Using rough material – rope or twine made from natural fibers (jute, sisal) can get wet, rot, and break under load. It is better to use synthetic twine.

4. Delayed staking – if the stem has already bent, it is difficult to straighten it without injury. It may break or remain crooked, which reduces lighting and nutrition.

5. Tying all stems to one support – when training in 2–3 stems, you cannot tie all stems to one stake or one rope—they will touch, rub, create density, and provoke diseases (Котов и др., 2016; Ноннеке, 1989).

Conclusion on Staking

Proper staking is the foundation on which the entire training process rests. It gives the plant the opportunity to realize its potential without wasting energy fighting its own weight. Invest time and materials in creating a reliable support system—and your tomatoes will reward you with a healthy appearance, large fruits, and an abundant harvest.

Why Pinch Tomatoes?

1. Accelerates ripening. After removing the growing point, the plant stops spending assimilates on forming new leaves and flowers, and all energy is directed to the existing fruits. Ripening accelerates by 7–14 days, which is critical in short-season conditions (Свайдер, 1992; Велбаум, 2015).

2. Increases fruit size. All resources that could have gone into stem growth are redistributed among a limited number of fruits, making them larger and meatier (Атертон и Рудич, 1986).

3. Improves fruit quality. Fruits that receive more sugars and nutrients become sweeter, more aromatic, and store better.

4. Prevents density. The top of the plant, if not pinched, continues to produce new shoots (especially in indeterminates), leading to shading of the lower tiers and reduced ventilation.

Which Tomatoes to Pinch and When?

Pinching Technique: Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Choose the moment. Pinch in dry, sunny weather, in the morning or early afternoon, so the cut site dries quickly.

2. Examine the plant. Identify the top flower cluster that has already set fruit (or at least finished flowering). Above this cluster, leave 2–3 leaves (they are needed to nourish the fruits on the top cluster). Remove everything above these leaves.

3. How to remove. Pinch off the tip with your fingers (like a sucker) or cut it with clean pruners/scissors, leaving a stub 1–1.5 cm long. This stub will dry out over time and prevent infection from entering the stem. The main thing is not to damage the leaves you are leaving.

4. Remove small ovaries and flowers. If there is little time left before the cold weather (less than 30–40 days), flowers and the smallest ovaries on the upper clusters should also be removed—they will not have time to ripen anyway but will consume resources. Leave only those fruits that will definitely have time to ripen (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

Special Cases of Pinching

How to Know When It's Time to Pinch?

Use the season and the appearance of the plants as a guide:

• In open ground in the middle belt – late July – early August (depending on the region). If you know frost starts in mid-September, pinch no later than August 10–15.
• In an unheated greenhouse – can be 1–2 weeks later, as it is warmer there.
• In the south (Kuban, Crimea, southern regions) – pinching is often not done at all, or done very late (in September), as the warm season lasts until November.
• Visual sign: when the fruits on the lower clusters have begun to turn red and the upper clusters have formed and set, pinching can be done. Do not pinch before the fruits on the top cluster have set—this may result in the top cluster producing no fruit at all (Атертон и Рудич, 1986; Свайдер, 1992).

Common Pinching Mistakes

1. Too early pinching. If you pinch before the upper clusters have set fruit, they may remain empty or produce small, deformed fruits. Wait until the ovaries reach the size of a pea (Свайдер, 1992).

2. Too late pinching. A delay of 1–2 weeks can cost you a share of the harvest—the fruits will not ripen in time. It is better to pinch slightly earlier than too late (Гавриш, 2005).

3. Removing too many leaves during pinching. It is important to leave at least 2–3 leaves above the top cluster—they provide nutrition for the fruits. Do not remove all the leaves above the cluster.

4. Pinching without considering the growth type. For example, pinching an indeterminate too early will stop growth, but you will lose part of the potential harvest that could have ripened with a longer season. And pinching a super-determinate is pointless and harmful.

5. Uneven pinching on suckers. If you have left several suckers to form the bush, pinch each of them individually, depending on their development (not all stems are equal in strength and flowering phase) (Котов и др., 2016).

Summary of Pinching

Pinching is the final chord of tomato training. It allows you to "switch" the plant from growth to yielding, which is especially important in short-summer conditions. Proper pinching, done on time and considering the growth type, ensures that even on the upper clusters, the fruits will ripen and be large, sweet, and healthy.

1. Incorrect Determination of Growth Type

Mistake: Confusing determinate and indeterminate varieties. For example, treating an indeterminate as a determinate (pinching too early and training in 3 stems), or vice versa—leaving a determinate without suckering and not pinching it, expecting long growth.

Consequences: An indeterminate pinched too early does not reach its potential, and a significant part of the yield is lost. A determinate without suckering turns into a dense, neglected bush with small, late fruits.

How to avoid: Read the variety description on the package carefully. If in doubt, observe the plant in the first week of flowering: in indeterminates, the first cluster is set high (after 9–11 leaves), with 3 or more leaves between clusters. In determinates, clusters are spaced 1–2 leaves apart, and the plant stops growing on its own (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

2. Delayed or Irregular Suckering

Mistake: Suckers are removed when they have already reached 10–15 cm or more. Or 1–2 weeks are skipped, and then an attempt is made to catch up.

Consequences: Overgrown suckers have already "drawn" resources to themselves, and their removal injures the plant more severely (leaves a large wound). Additionally, a neglected bush shades itself, fruits become smaller, and ripening is delayed (Свайдер, 1992; Велбаум, 2015).

How to avoid: Sucker regularly, every 5–7 days, ideally when the sucker is 3–5 cm long. Remove them with your fingers, breaking them off at the very base, leaving no "stumps" (Гавриш, 2005).

3. Removing Too Many Leaves at Once

Mistake: "Baring" the stem—removing 5–6 or more leaves at a time. Or removing healthy, actively working leaves in the upper part of the plant.

Consequences: A sharp reduction in the photosynthetic surface → growth stops, flowers and ovaries drop, fruits become smaller, and the plant experiences stress. In hot climates, unprotected fruits get sunburned (Кубота и др., 2018; Хьювелинг, 2018).

How to avoid: Remove no more than 1–2 leaves from a plant at a time. Remove only old, yellowed, or diseased leaves, as well as those touching the ground. Always leave at least 12–15 healthy leaves on the plant. In hot regions, leave more leaves to protect the fruits from the sun (Ноннеке, 1989).

4. Too Early or Too Late Pinching (Topping)

Mistake: Pinching before the fruits on the top cluster have set, or being 2–3 weeks late.

Consequences: Early pinching → the upper clusters do not develop, remain empty, or have small ovaries. Late pinching → the fruits on the upper clusters do not have time to ripen before the cold weather (Атертон и Рудич, 1986; Котов и др., 2016).

How to avoid: Pinch 30–40 days before the expected end of the season. Use the appearance of ovaries on the top cluster (pea-sized) as a guide. Always leave 2–3 leaves above the top cluster to nourish it (Свайдер, 1992).

5. Irregular Staking or Too Tight a Loop

Mistake: Staking is done when the stem has already bent significantly. Or the loop is tied tightly, without a gap.

Consequences: The stem may break or become crooked, which impairs sap flow. A tight loop constricts the stem, disrupts nutrient transport, can lead to constrictions, and even the death of the upper part of the plant (Котов и др., 2016; Ноннеке, 1989).

How to avoid: Stake the stems regularly (every 20–30 cm of growth). Use a loose "figure-eight" or a sliding knot, leaving a 1–2 cm gap for stem thickening (Гавриш, 2005).

6. Ignoring Climatic Conditions

Mistake: Applying the same training scheme in different climatic zones. For example, in hot, sunny climates, removing too many leaves, and in cloudy, cool climates, leaving too many stems.

Consequences: In hot climates, fruits get burned and suffer from overheating. In cool climates, they don't ripen in time and become smaller (Кубота и др., 2018; Велбаум, 2015).

How to avoid: Adapt training to your conditions. In hot climates, leave more leaves to shade the fruit and use more open schemes (2–3 stems). In cool climates, remove more leaves to improve lighting and leave fewer stems (1–2) to speed ripening (Атертон и Рудич, 1986).

7. Training All Types by the Same Scheme ("Universal Approach")

Mistake: All tomatoes (both indeterminate and determinate) are trained by the same scheme—for example, in 2 stems with pinching after 5 clusters.

Consequences: The indeterminate loses part of its potential yield; the determinate suffers from density. The plants do not reach their genetic potential (Гавриш, 2005; Котов и др., 2016).

How to avoid: Strictly follow the training recommendations for each growth type. Use the table from section 4. Indeterminates – 1 stem, semi-determinates – 1–2, determinates – 2–3, super-determinates – no training.

8. Leaving Too Many Ovaries on the Cluster (Overloading)

Mistake: Not thinning the number of fruits on a cluster, leaving all ovaries, especially in large-fruited varieties.

Consequences: Fruits become smaller, ripen unevenly, and total yield mass decreases. The plant may drop some ovaries (Свайдер, 1992; Ноннеке, 1989).

How to avoid: For large-fruited varieties (beefsteak, "Bull's Heart"), leave 3–5 fruits per cluster, removing the smallest and deformed ones. For medium and small-fruited varieties, you can leave 5–8 fruits, but regularly inspect the clusters and remove the weakest ovaries (Гавриш, 2005).

9. Removing Leaves and Suckers in Wet Weather

Mistake: Carrying out training operations after rain, early in the morning when there is dew on the plants, or in cloudy, damp weather.

Consequences: The cut sites take a long time to dry, becoming "entry points" for fungal and bacterial pathogens (late blight, gray mold, bacterial canker) (Кубота и др., 2018; Хьювелинг, 2018).

How to avoid: Perform all training operations in dry, sunny weather, in the first half of the day, so that the wounds have time to dry by evening. In the greenhouse, try to maintain ventilation (Ноннеке, 1989).

10. Not Disinfecting Tools

Mistake: Using the same pruners or scissors to prune all plants without disinfection.

Consequences: Transfer of viral and bacterial infections (e.g., tobacco mosaic virus, bacterial canker) from diseased plants to healthy ones. One diseased branch can infect an entire row (Свайдер, 1992; Котов и др., 2016).

How to avoid: Wipe the pruner blades with alcohol, potassium permanganate solution, or chlorhexidine after each plant (or at least after each row). If a plant is clearly diseased, disinfect the tool after each cut (Гавриш, 2005).

Conclusion: Training Is a System, Not a Set of Actions

Tomato training is a comprehensive, interconnected process. Suckering, leaf removal, staking, pinching—each technique affects the others. You cannot, for example, remove all the leaves but forget about the suckers, or stake well but not pinch in time. Success comes when all operations are performed regularly, with an understanding of plant biology and with consideration of specific climatic conditions.

Practical advice: Start small. If you are a beginner, choose one or two varieties, determine their growth type, and strictly follow the recommendations. Keep a journal—record when you suckered, staked, pinched, and what the weather conditions were. Compare results year to year. Mistakes are inevitable, but each one is a lesson that makes you a better gardener.

Remember: nature is generous, but it demands respect and understanding. A trained tomato is not violence against the plant, but help in realizing its genetic potential under the limited conditions of your garden. And the gratitude for this help is an abundant, tasty, and healthy harvest.