Watering
Water is the main “building material” of the root crop. In beet, water content reaches 83–87% of its mass (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984). That is why even a minor irrigation failure affects yield and root quality.
To understand how to water beet correctly, it is important to know how the plant is built and how it “drinks.”
Root System Characteristics
Beet has a powerful taproot system. In loose soils, its roots penetrate to a depth of up to 2.5 metres and spread up to 50 cm in radius (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984; Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016). Thanks to this, an adult plant can extract moisture from deep soil layers and tolerates temporary drought better than, for example, radish or turnip.
However, this feature works only for adult plants. In early growth, the root system of beet is weakly developed, and it depends entirely on moisture in the topsoil (0–30 cm).
Water and Root Quality
The beet root consists of three parts (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984):
- Head (epicotyl) – forms the leaf rosette
- Neck (hypocotyl) – smooth middle part
- Root proper – lower part with lateral roots
Root thickening occurs due to the activity of cambial rings. Constant moisture is necessary for proper formation of these rings. It is precisely with uniform moistening that a smooth, even, juicy root without cracks or voids is formed.
In addition, water participates in transporting nutrients from the soil to the leaves and into the root. With a lack of moisture, photosynthesis is disrupted, leaves lose turgor, and sugar accumulation slows down. With excess moisture, aeration suffers, and the plant absorbs nutrients less efficiently (Sood, Gupta, 2018).
Water Consumption Rate
On average, beet consumes 120 to 160 m³ of water to produce 1 tonne of marketable roots (Pantelev, 1986). The peak of water consumption occurs during the period of root formation and filling – from midsummer to autumn.
Thus, in different growth phases, beet has different water needs. We will consider this in the next chapter.
2. Critical Periods of Moisture Requirement
Like most root crops, beet has three key stages when water shortage causes the greatest damage to yield and quality. Missing one of them means losing up to 30–40% of marketable roots and getting coarse, bitter, or cracked produce instead of juicy sweet beet (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
2.1. Seedling Stage (sowing – emergence of 1–2 true leaves)
Beet seeds germinate very slowly at +5 °C, and the optimal temperature for germination is +20…+25 °C (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984; Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016). But the main thing is that seeds swell and germinate only when the topsoil has sufficient moisture.
During this period, seeds need constant moisture at a depth of 2–4 cm (seeding depth). If the topsoil dries out even for 2–3 days, the seeds “freeze” and may not emerge at all. If seedlings have already appeared, drought at the cotyledon stage leads to their death.
Why it is critical:
Young roots are still very weak and cannot extract water from deep layers – they work only within 5–10 cm of the surface. Therefore, during this period watering should be regular and shallow, so as not to over-moisten but also not to allow drying out. The optimal soil moisture at this time is about 70–75% of full field capacity (FFC) (Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
How it looks in practice:
Crops are watered every 1–2 days with small rates – about 100–150 m³/ha (roughly 1–1.5 buckets per 1 m²). In hot and windy weather, watering is done more often – once a day, sometimes even twice, but always in small portions so as not to wash away the soil or drag seeds deeper.
2.2. Beginning of Root Formation (phase of 4–6 true leaves – onset of root thickening)
As soon as beet produces true leaves and active photosynthesis begins, the plant moves to laying down storage tissues in the root. It is during this period that the shape and size of the future root are set (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
At this time, the root system has not yet reached great depth (the bulk of roots is in the 20–30 cm layer), but it is already capable of absorbing more moisture. However, water deficiency in this phase results in a small and woody root.
Why it is critical:
Here, active cell division occurs in the cambium – tissues responsible for root thickening. If cells do not receive enough water, they become coarse and lignify. It is then impossible to restore normal juiciness. Moreover, drought in this phase provokes premature formation of flowering shoots (“bolting”) – the plant “decides” that conditions are poor and rushes to produce seeds instead of growing the root (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
Recommended regime:
Soil moisture should be maintained at 70–80% FFC, evenly, without sharp fluctuations. Watering becomes less frequent but more abundant – up to 300–400 m³/ha at a time. Approximate interval – once every 5–7 days in moderate weather and once every 3–4 days in heat.
2.3. Active Root Filling Period (midsummer – harvest)
This is the most critical stage. The root rapidly gains weight, accumulating sugars, dry matter, and pigments (betanin, which gives beet its colour). It is at this time that the final size, juiciness, and sweetness of beet are formed.
Beet requires maximum moisture – 80–85% FFC (Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016). But here a danger arises: excess water after drought, or conversely, sharp drying after heavy watering, leads to root cracking.
Why it is critical:
The root grows quickly; its skin (periderm) is already almost unable to stretch, while internal tissues continue to expand. If moisture suddenly becomes abundant, the cells inside “swell,” and the skin cannot withstand – the root cracks. These cracks are entry points for rot and fungal diseases; moreover, they make beet unsuitable for storage.
What to do:
- Maintain uniform moisture – avoid strong fluctuations.
- In dry weather, water regularly every 5–7 days, without waiting for leaves to wilt.
- When rain is expected, stop watering 3–5 days before it, so that the root “gets used” to the moisture.
- Stop watering completely 3–4 weeks before harvest so that roots dry slightly, are less damaged during harvesting, and accumulate more sugars (Pantelev, 1986; Sood, Gupta, 2018).
Summary of Critical Periods
| Period | Plant age | Optimal soil moisture (FFC) | Danger of deficiency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seedlings | 0–2 true leaves | 70–75% | Seedling death, thin stands |
| Beginning of root formation | 4–6 leaves | 70–80% | Small woody root, bolting |
| Root filling | From formation to harvest | 80–85% | Cracking, coarse flesh, poor storage |
3. When Watering Is Especially Important
Even within one season, beet’s water needs are not constant. Besides the three critical stages described above, there are specific situations where watering becomes a decisive factor for obtaining a quality harvest.
3.1. In Hot and Dry Weather
When air temperatures exceed +25…+30 °C, evaporation from the leaf surface increases sharply. Although beet tolerates heat better than some other root crops (e.g., turnip or rutabaga), during prolonged drought it halts growth and enters a state of forced dormancy (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
What happens:
Leaves lose turgor (become limp), stomata close, photosynthesis slows. The root stops gaining weight, and if heat lasts 2–3 weeks, tissues begin to coarsen and accumulate bitter substances.
Practical advice:
In dry periods, water at least once every 4–6 days (on light soils – more often). Water rate increases to 300–500 m³/ha (3–5 buckets per 1 m²). The best time for watering is early morning or evening, so water does not evaporate instantly and does not cause leaf burns.
3.2. On Light Sandy and Loamy Sand Soils
Such soils hold moisture poorly – water quickly percolates to lower horizons or evaporates. Beet on sand requires 1.5–2 times more frequent watering than on loams (Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
Indicator:
The top layer (5–10 cm) dries out within 1–2 days even without intense heat. Leaves begin to curl slightly by midday.
What to do:
- Water with small rates (150–200 m³/ha), but at intervals of 2–3 days in hot weather and 4–5 days in moderate weather.
- After watering, be sure to loosen the surface (or mulch) to break capillaries and reduce evaporation.
- Drip irrigation works well – it delivers water directly to the roots without over-moistening the inter-rows.
3.3. On Loamy and Clay Soils (with overwatering)
Here the danger is the opposite: water stagnates, displaces air from the soil, and roots begin to suffocate. Under such conditions, beet stops growing, leaves acquire a bluish-purple tint, and roots become watery and store poorly (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
Indicator:
After rain or watering, water does not soak in for several hours, and puddles form on the surface.
What to do:
- Reduce the watering rate but increase frequency – for example, 200 m³/ha every 5–7 days instead of 400 m³ every 10 days.
- Provide drainage or grow beet on raised beds or ridges so excess water drains into the inter-rows.
- During rainy periods, stop watering completely until the top layer dries.
3.4. When Combining Watering with Fertilising
Beet responds well to mineral fertilisers, but without moisture they do not work – roots cannot absorb dry granules. Therefore, fertilising must be combined with watering (Pantelev, 1986).
Practical technique:
- Before applying fertiliser, lightly moisten the soil (150–200 m³/ha).
- Then spread fertiliser (especially nitrogen and potassium) and immediately carry out watering with a small rate (200–250 m³/ha) to “pull” them into the root zone.
- In hot weather, instead of dry fertilisers, it is better to use liquid (dissolved) fertilisers applied through irrigation water (fertigation).
3.5. After a Long Break (if you missed watering)
Sometimes, due to absence or lack of time, watering is missed, and the soil dries out deeply. In this case, you should not give a heavy watering immediately – this will almost certainly cause root cracking (Sood, Gupta, 2018).
Correct algorithm:
1. First watering – moderate (150–200 m³/ha) – just to wet the top layer and “wake up” the roots.
2. After 1–2 days – second watering with a larger rate (300–400 m³/ha) to reach a depth of 30–40 cm.
3. Then resume normal regime.
This approach gives roots time to adapt, and the risk of cracking is reduced.
3.6. One Month Before Harvest
As mentioned, stop watering completely 3–4 weeks before the expected harvest (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984; Sood, Gupta, 2018).
Why:
- Roots become drier and denser, improving storage.
- Sugar concentration increases, as the plant stops diluting them with water.
- Risk of mechanical damage during digging decreases – dry roots are less fragile.
The exception – if autumn is abnormally hot and dry, and the soil dries out so much that roots begin to wilt. In this case, carry out one maintenance watering (no more than 200 m³/ha) 2–3 weeks before harvest, but not later.
Main conclusion: watering beet is not just “give water,” but a fine adjustment to weather, soil, and growth phase. In the next chapter, we will discuss how to determine moisture deficiency by visual signs, so you don’t guess but act precisely.
4. How to Determine Moisture Deficiency
A gardener does not need instruments to know when beet needs watering. The plant itself gives signals. The main thing is to learn to read them. In this chapter, we will look at external signs of water deficit, soil testing methods, and typical assessment errors.
4.1. Signals from Leaves
Beet leaves are the most sensitive indicator of water stress. They react to moisture deficiency earlier than the root.
Early signs (mild deficit)
- Loss of turgor in the middle of the day. Leaves become soft, slightly drooping, but recover by morning. This is a signal: it is time to water, but there is still time.
- Leaves darken and acquire a dull, matte shade instead of bright green gloss.
Moderate deficit
- Leaf edges curling inward or upward – the plant tries to reduce evaporation.
- Slowed growth – new leaves appear less frequently and become smaller.
- Lower leaves begin to yellow and dry out – the plant sacrifices old leaves to save water for young ones and the root (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
Severe deficit (critical)
- Leaves wilt and do not recover even at night.
- Leaf edges turn brown, dry necrotic spots appear.
- With prolonged drought, the plant may prematurely bolt (“flowering”) – an attempt to leave offspring under stress (Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
Important: do not confuse wilting from lack of water with wilting from overheating or disease. If after watering turgor recovers within 2–3 hours, the problem was indeed water.
4.2. Soil Condition – The Main Objective Criterion
Relying only on leaves is risky: they can wilt from excess moisture too (when roots suffocate). Therefore, the best method is checking soil at the depth where the bulk of roots are located (15–30 cm).
Simple Field Test (finger or spade)
1. Top layer (0–10 cm) – dried out? That is normal for midsummer. The main thing is what is below.
2. Layer 10–20 cm – squeeze a handful of soil in your fist:
- If a lump does not form and soil crumbles – moisture is critically low, urgent watering needed.
- If a lump forms but crumbles under light pressure – moisture is at the lower optimum limit, watering is desirable within the next 1–2 days.
- If the lump is plastic, leaving a wet mark on the palm – moisture is sufficient, watering can be postponed.
- If water oozes from the lump – overwatering, no need to water, and if the situation repeats – drainage is needed.
3. Layer 20–30 cm – there should be constant moderate moisture here. If the soil at this depth is dry and dusty, it means watering was too superficial and did not reach the roots.
Spade Test
Dig a hole 20–25 cm deep in the inter-row. Assess soil moisture visually and by touch:
- Dry, dusty – watering needed immediately.
- Slightly moist but not wet – optimum.
- Wet, sticky – overwatering, stop watering.
4.3. Indirect Signs Related to Weather
Experienced gardeners consider not only soil condition but also weather:
- Hot, windy weather – evaporation increases sharply. Even if the soil is still moist, watering may be needed earlier than usual.
- Stable cloudy and cool weather – evaporation decreases, intervals between waterings can be lengthened.
- After heavy rains – skip watering, but be sure to check the wetting depth – sometimes rain wets only the top 5–7 cm, while the soil below remains dry.
4.4. How Often to Check?
In hot weather – check soil every 2–3 days.
In moderate weather – once every 5–7 days.
In rainy periods – checking once every 7–10 days is enough.
Be especially attentive during root filling (see Chapter 2), when even a short-term moisture deficit can cause cracking.
4.5. Typical Mistake: Surface Wetting
Many gardeners water often but little by little – “sprinkling” the surface. As a result:
- Roots do not develop deeply but remain in the top layer.
- At the slightest drought, the plant suffers because the top layer dries out fastest.
- Beet forms a small, weak root.
Rule: it is better to water less often but abundantly than frequently but superficially. An adult plant needs moisture at a depth of 25–40 cm. For this, the single rate should be at least 300–400 m³/ha (3–4 buckets per 1 m²) to allow water to penetrate deeply.
Summary: Your Main Aids
| What to check | Sign of normal | Sign of deficit |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves (turgor) | Firm, glossy | Wilting, dull, curled |
| Soil (lump at 15–20 cm depth) | Forms, does not crumble | Crumbles to dust |
| Depth of moist layer | At least 20–25 cm | Only 5–10 cm |
| Time of day | Recovers by morning | Wilting does not go away even at night |
5. How to Avoid Cracking: The Main Watering Problem
Cracking of roots is the most common and annoying problem when growing table beet. A cracked root loses marketable appearance, stores poorly, becomes coarse, and loses juiciness. In this chapter, we will analyse why this happens and how to prevent it.
5.1. Why Beet Cracks
The main cause is sharp fluctuations in soil moisture (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984; Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
The mechanism is simple:
- During dry periods, root growth slows down, its skin (periderm) becomes less elastic and denser.
- After heavy watering or rain, cells inside the root begin to grow rapidly and swell, absorbing water.
- The skin can no longer stretch, and the root bursts from internal pressure.
The stronger the moisture deficit was, the more active growth after watering and the higher the risk of rupture. In the literature, this phenomenon is described as a result of uneven moisture supply during the growing season (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
Secondary factors:
- Excess nitrogen fertilisers in the filling phase – they stimulate too rapid tissue growth, and the skin cannot keep up (Sood, Gupta, 2018).
- Heavy clay soils – they retain moisture for a long time after watering, then dry out sharply, creating ideal conditions for cracking.
- Late summer rains after prolonged drought – the most common cause of mass cracking precisely during root filling (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
5.2. How to Prevent Cracking: Main Principles
Maintain a Uniform Watering Regime
The most important thing is not to allow long breaks in watering during active root growth (from midsummer to harvest).
Practical regime:
- Water regularly – ideally once every 5–7 days in the absence of rain.
- Water rate should be sufficient to wet the soil to a depth of 30–40 cm (about 300–500 m³/ha per watering).
- In hot weather, shorten the interval to 3–4 days, but reduce the rate slightly.
Do Not Allow Soil to Dry Out
Rely on soil condition at a depth of 20–30 cm (see Chapter 4). If the soil there begins to crumble – you are on the edge. It is better to water a little earlier than later.
Remember: it is safer to slightly overwater (if drainage is available) than to allow drying and subsequent heavy watering.
Gradually Restore Watering After a Break
If for some reason watering was missed and the soil dried out:
Do not do this:
❌ Give the full rate immediately (400–500 m³/ha) – this will almost certainly cause cracking.
Correct algorithm:
1. First watering – reduced rate (150–200 m³/ha) to slightly moisten and “wake up” the roots.
2. After 1–2 days – second watering with full rate (300–400 m³/ha).
3. Then resume normal regime (Pantelev, 1986).
Consider the Weather Forecast
If forecasters promise heavy rains:
- Stop watering 2–3 days before rains so the soil has time to dry slightly.
- During rainy periods, do not water.
- After rains, check wetting depth: if moisture penetrated 20–30 cm, the next watering can be postponed.
Important: summer downpours after prolonged drought are especially dangerous – they most often cause mass cracking. If you know rain is approaching, it is better to slightly moisten the soil 1–2 days before to make the transition less abrupt.
Choose the Site Wisely
- Avoid areas with heavy clay soils prone to cracking with moisture fluctuations (Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
- On such soils, it is better to grow beet on raised beds or ridges – they dry faster and do not hold water.
- If possible, use drip irrigation – it provides the most uniform wetting and minimal moisture variation.
Do Not Overuse Nitrogen
Excess nitrogen during root formation causes too rapid tissue growth, which does not have time to “lignify,” and the skin becomes thin and vulnerable (Sood, Gupta, 2018).
Recommendation: apply the main dose of nitrogen early in growth (before rows close), and during root filling reduce the share of nitrogen fertilisers and increase potassium‑phosphorus nutrition.
5.3. What to Do with Already Cracked Roots
If cracking has occurred:
1. Do not store such roots for long-term storage – pathogens enter through cracks, and they spoil quickly (Pantelev, 1986).
2. Use them first – for processing, boiling, freezing, or canning.
3. If cracks are small, the root can be eaten within a few days, but not stored.
Summary: How to Avoid Cracking – “Golden Rules”
| Rule | Why it works |
|---|---|
| Water regularly, avoiding long breaks | Skin retains elasticity, growth is uniform |
| Restore watering gradually after drought | Avoids a sharp jump in internal pressure |
| Consider rain forecast and adjust watering in advance | Reduces sharpness of moisture fluctuations |
| Use drip irrigation or furrow irrigation | More uniform wetting without overwatering |
| Do not apply excess nitrogen during root filling | Skin becomes stronger, tissues mature gradually |
6. Watering Mistakes: What Not to Do
Even knowing all the rules, it is easy to make a mistake in practice. Some seem insignificant but lead to yield loss, deterioration of taste, or total plant death. In this chapter, we will discuss the most common mistakes when watering table beet and how to avoid them.
6.1. Surface Watering Instead of Deep Watering
This is the most widespread mistake. Gardeners water often (every 1–2 days) but in small amounts – wetting only the top 5–10 cm of soil. As a result:
- Roots do not develop deeply but remain in the surface layer.
- At the slightest drought, the plant suffers because the top layer dries out quickly.
- The root forms small, deformed, with coarse flesh (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984).
How to avoid: water less often but more abundantly. Adult beet needs moisture at a depth of 25–40 cm. Single rate – at least 300–400 m³/ha (3–4 buckets per 1 m²). Check wetting depth with a spade.
6.2. Heavy Watering After a Long Drought
We have already mentioned this in the cracking chapter, but it is so common that we repeat it separately. Wanting to “compensate” for missed waterings, gardeners give a large amount at once. The result – mass cracking of roots (Sood, Gupta, 2018).
How to avoid: after a break, resume watering in two steps – first a small rate (150–200 m³/ha), then after 1–2 days the full rate.
6.3. Watering During the Hottest Part of the Day
Watering at noon, when the sun is at its zenith, leads to:
- A significant portion of water evaporates without reaching the roots.
- Water drops on leaves act as lenses and can cause burns on the leaf blade.
- A sharp temperature change (cold water + hot soil) causes root stress, and growth temporarily stops (Pantelev, 1986).
How to avoid: water early morning (before 8–9 a.m.) or evening (after 5–6 p.m.). In these cases, water is fully absorbed, and plants have time to “drink” before the heat or cool down by night.
6.4. Overwatering and Waterlogging
On heavy clay soils or with too frequent and abundant watering, water stagnates in the top layer, displacing air. Roots “suffocate” without oxygen, and rots develop. Leaves become pale green or yellow, growth ceases (Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
Signs of overwatering:
- Green algae or moss appear on the soil surface.
- Water does not soak in for several hours.
- Plants look depressed even though the soil is wet.
How to avoid:
- On heavy soils, grow beet on raised beds or ridges so water drains into inter-rows.
- Reduce the single watering rate but keep frequency (e.g., 200 m³/ha instead of 400 m³).
- During prolonged rains, stop watering until the top layer dries.
6.5. Watering with Cold Water from a Well or Borehole
Water from deep layers has a temperature of +8…+12 °C, while the optimal soil temperature for beet is +18…+22 °C (Sood, Gupta, 2018). Cold water causes shock to the roots: they stop absorbing water and nutrients, growth slows.
How to avoid: if you use a well or borehole, fill containers (barrels, tanks) and let the water warm up in the sun during the day. Irrigation water temperature should be close to soil temperature – not below +15…+18 °C.
6.6. Sprinkler Irrigation During Flowering or When Humidity Is High
In some regions (especially in central Russia), sprinkling is often used. However, if the air is already humid (fogs, dew) and temperatures are moderate, excess moisture on leaves creates conditions for downy mildew (peronosporosis) and other fungal diseases (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984; Kotov, Adritskaya, 2016).
How to avoid:
- In cloudy and humid weather, use furrow irrigation (between rows) instead of sprinkling.
- If using sprinkling, do it in the first half of the day so leaves dry by evening.
6.7. Stopping Watering Too Early or Too Late
Stopping too early (e.g., 6–8 weeks before harvest) leads to roots not gaining weight and becoming coarse, tough.
Stopping too late (up to harvest) makes roots watery, reduces sugar content, and impairs storage (Pantelev, 1986).
Optimal timing: stop watering 3–4 weeks before harvest. This is a standard agronomic technique approved in vegetable growing textbooks (Karataev, Sovetkina, 1984; Sood, Gupta, 2018). In hot, dry autumn, one maintenance watering is allowed 2 weeks before harvest, but not later.
6.8. Watering Without Considering Soil Type
Many gardeners apply the same watering schedule to all soils. This is a mistake:
- On sands and sandy loams, watering should be more frequent but with smaller rates (water quickly percolates down).
- On loams and clays – less frequent but more abundant (water is retained longer).
How to avoid: see Chapter 3, where watering tactics for different soils are described in detail.
Summary: Main Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
| Mistake | Consequence | Correct approach |
|---|---|---|
| Surface watering | Small coarse roots | Water to depth of 30–40 cm |
| Heavy watering after drought | Cracking | Resume gradually in 2 steps |
| Watering in heat | Evaporation, burns, stress | Water morning or evening |
| Overwatering | Root rot | On heavy soils – ridges, reduce rate |
| Cold water | Shock, growth stop | Warm water to +15…+18 °C |
| Late sprinkling | Fungal diseases | Furrow irrigation or morning sprinkling |
| Stopping too early | Small coarse roots | Stop 3–4 weeks before harvest |
| Same regime for all soils | Water waste or stagnation | Adjust to soil type |
Conclusion
Watering table beet is not just “pouring water,” but a well‑thought‑out system that takes into account plant growth phase, weather, soil type, and even water temperature. Mastering these principles will allow you to obtain smooth, juicy, sweet roots without cracks, which will store well and delight you and your family.
Remember the three main rules:
1. Regularity – do not allow long breaks in watering, especially in midsummer.
2. Depth – water must reach roots at 25–40 cm.
3. Gradualness – do not give sharp changes in moisture, especially after drought and before rains.
Follow these recommendations, and your beet will thank you with a bountiful harvest!
References
- Sood, S., Gupta, N. (2017). ‘Beetroot’, in Rana, M.K. (ed.) Vegetable Crops Science. : CRC Press, 247-260.
- Каратаев, Е.С., Советкина, В.Е. (1984). ‘Столовые корнеплоды [Table root vegetables]’, in Овощеводство [Vegetable growing]. Москва: Колос, pp. 141-171.
- Котов, В.П., Адрицкая, Н.А. (2016). ‘Технологии возделывания овощных культур [Vegetable cultivation technologies]’, in Овощеводство [Vegetable growing]. Санкт-Петербург: Лань, pp. 153-361.
- Пантиелев, Я.Х. (1986). ‘Особенности агротехники овощных культур [Features of agricultural technology of vegetable crops]’, in Сезонные работы в овощеводстве [Seasonal work in vegetable growing]. Москва: Агропромиздат, 159-232.
