Watering

Tree Age

The need for water and its role in the life of a tree change dramatically with age.

Young saplings: For newly planted trees, water is a matter of survival. Their root system is still very small and located in the upper soil layers, which dry out quickly. The main goal of watering in the first 1–2 years is to ensure establishment and stimulate the development of a powerful root system (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). Unlike adult trees, cherry roots cannot extract moisture from deep layers, so young trees require frequent but moderate wetting of the root zone.

Fruiting trees: A mature tree with a developed root system can tolerate short-term drought, especially if it occurs after harvest. However, during critical periods of the growing season, lack of water for such a tree can cost not only the current yield but also the formation of flower buds for the next year (Westwood, 1993). Long-term observations show that trees with a strong, deep‑penetrating root system (e.g., on Mazzard rootstock) are less sensitive to moisture deficit than trees on dwarfing clonal rootstocks (Long et al., 2021).

Development Phases (Critical Periods)

The highest water demand in cherries occurs during several key development phases. Moisture deficit during these periods leads to the most serious losses.

1. Active shoot growth (late May – June): During this period, the tree’s leaf apparatus—its “factory” for producing carbohydrates—is formed. Water shortage inhibits shoot growth, leaves grow small, reducing future yield potential. It is recommended to water immediately after flowering to support this active growth (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

2. Fruit swelling and ripening (late June – July): This is the most critical period. To form large, juicy, and sweet fruits, the tree requires maximum water. Lack of moisture at this stage leads to smaller fruits, less juiciness, and deteriorated flavour. Generous watering during this period is the key to high fruit quality (Hanson and Proebsting, 1996). However, there is an important nuance, which we will discuss later.

3. Autumn pre‑winter watering (September – early October): After harvest, many gardeners become relaxed, but this is a big mistake. Autumn watering, also known as pre‑winter moisture‑charging irrigation, is crucial for successful overwintering. Moist soil freezes more slowly, protecting the root system. In addition, water accumulated in the soil provides the tree with moisture in early spring, when roots are just beginning to wake up and there are no leaves yet for transpiration (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). This watering is especially important in dry years.

Influence of Climatic Conditions

Naturally, in arid regions the need for watering is higher than in regions with sufficient rainfall. However, two points are important here.

• Drought: In regions with hot and dry summers, especially in southern latitudes, the water requirement can reach 60–70 litres per 1 m² of the root zone per single watering (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).
• Overwatering and fruit cracking: Cherries, and especially sweet cherries, are very sensitive to excess moisture, particularly during fruit ripening. Sharp fluctuations in humidity (drought followed by heavy watering or rain) cause fruits to intensively absorb water and burst. This process is called cracking. Therefore, it is important to maintain soil moisture at a stable level, avoiding sharp fluctuations (Long et al., 2021). Moreover, excess moisture in the soil can cause root asphyxia, lead to the development of fungal diseases, and even tree death (Webster, 1996).

Thus, the main task of the gardener is not just to water the cherry tree, but to do it wisely, taking into account its age, growth stage, and weather conditions, in order to ensure a bountiful harvest of large and healthy fruits.

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Young Trees (first 2–3 years after planting)

In the first two to three years of life, the cherry tree forms a compact root system that lies in the surface soil layer—mainly at a depth of 20–30 cm (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). The roots of a young sapling are not yet able to extract moisture from deeper horizons, so drying of the upper layer is critical. Lack of water during this period can lead to growth arrest, shoot dieback, and even plant death.

Immediately after planting. Watering is necessary at the time of planting. If an irrigation system is not yet installed, it is recommended to pour 11–19 litres of water under each tree to moisten the soil around the roots, ensure good soil‑root contact, and eliminate air pockets (Long et al., 2021). In the first weeks after planting, water regularly, especially in dry and hot weather.

First growing season. During the first year, water the young tree as the topsoil dries out. In the conditions of the central belt, this means about 1–2 waterings per week during dry periods. The main task is to prevent drying of the root zone. In hot weather, more frequent watering may be needed. Control moisture by a simple method: take a pinch of soil from a depth of 10–15 cm. If the soil crumbles in your fingers—it is time to water.

Period of active shoot growth (June). During this period, young trees form their leaf apparatus and skeletal branches. Lack of moisture at this time can irreversibly slow growth and delay the onset of fruiting. Waterings should be especially regular, especially in dry weather (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Autumn period. For better overwintering of young trees, carry out pre‑winter moisture‑charging watering in September – early October, if autumn is dry. This creates a reserve of moisture in the soil and protects the root system from desiccation during winter frosts (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Fruiting Trees

In mature trees, the root system is more branched, but the bulk of absorbing roots (up to 80%) is concentrated in the upper 45‑cm layer of soil (Neilsen et al., 2017; Long et al., 2021). Therefore, timely moistening of this horizon remains decisive for yield and fruit quality.

Seasonal Features and Regional Adaptations

The timing and frequency of watering depend on the climatic conditions of the region.

In arid regions with hot summers and low rainfall, irrigation is necessary almost throughout the entire growing season. Waterings during active shoot growth and fruit development are especially critical. Studies in regions such as Washington (USA) show that cherries can consume up to 750–1000 mm of water per season (Hanson and Proebsting, 1996; Neilsen et al., 2017). In such conditions, regular irrigation with soil moisture monitoring is essential.

In regions with sufficient moisture, the main task is to prevent soil drying during critical periods while avoiding overwatering. During rainy summers, irrigation is reduced or even cancelled. It is important to rely on actual soil moisture rather than a calendar schedule.

In regions with cold winters, autumn pre‑winter watering is mandatory, as it helps trees survive frosts (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). At the same time, watering should be done before persistent frosts set in—usually in September or early October.

How to Determine When to Water

You should rely not on a calendar, but on the condition of the soil and the tree.

The simplest method is to check the soil at a depth of 10–15 cm. If the soil is dry and crumbles—it is time to water. If it is moist and forms a lump—watering can be postponed.

Using moisture meters (tensiometers). For more precise control, it is recommended to install tensiometers at depths of 30 and 60 cm. In loamy or sandy loam soils, irrigation should start when the tensiometer reading at 30 cm reaches 30 kPa (Long et al., 2021). Threshold values vary with soil type: for light loams—20–30 kPa, for clay soils—35–45 kPa (Long et al., 2021).

External signs of moisture deficit in cherry trees: drooping leaves, loss of turgor, small and poorly coloured fruits. However, by the time these signs appear, the tree is already under stress, so it is better to use preventive moisture control methods.

Watering Features Depending on Soil Type

Soil type directly affects the frequency and volume of irrigation.

Sandy and sandy loam soils. Water quickly percolates to deeper layers, so irrigation should be more frequent (1–2 times a week in hot weather) but in smaller amounts. The wetting depth should be 30–40 cm. These soils also require more frequent fertilisation, as nutrients are leached with water (Westwood, 1993; Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Loamy and clayey soils. They retain moisture longer, so watering can be done less often (once every 7–10 days) but more abundantly. However, on such soils overwatering is dangerous, as it can lead to root rot (Westwood, 1993; Webster, 1996). It is important to ensure that water does not stagnate in the root zone.

Understanding when and how much to water is the basis for developing an effective irrigation system, which will be discussed in the following chapters. Properly chosen watering time guarantees that the tree receives moisture exactly when it needs it most, ensuring consistently high yields of large, tasty fruits.

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Watering Rates

The amount of water needed by a cherry tree depends on its age, size, soil type, and weather conditions. There is no universal number, but there are time‑tested guidelines.

For young trees (first 2–3 years after planting). The root system is still forming and lies shallow—mainly at a depth of 20–30 cm (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). In dry weather, 20–30 litres per watering is sufficient for each young tree. In hot summers and on sandy soils, this volume can be increased to 40–50 litres, but water more often—every 5–7 days. Immediately after planting, it is recommended to pour 11–19 litres per sapling to compact the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets (Long et al., 2021).

For mature fruiting trees. The watering rate is significantly higher. On average, a single mature tree (older than 5–6 years) requires 50 to 100 litres per watering. In hot and dry weather, especially during fruit swelling, the volume can reach 150 litres. The literature provides the following guidelines: in the conditions of central Russia, to wet the soil to a depth of 40 cm, an average of 50–60 litres of water per square metre of the root zone is required (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). With a root zone area of about 4–6 m² for a mature tree, this gives 200–360 litres per tree, which is consistent with intensive orchard practice.

A more accurate calculation can be made knowing the soil type and its water‑holding capacity. For example, for loamy soil with field capacity of 24% and wilting point of 12%, available water is 12% of soil weight (Westwood, 1993). To replenish moisture in a 40‑cm layer over 1 m², about 50–60 litres of water are needed—this matches the recommendation of Mikheev and Revyakina (2004).

Pre‑winter autumn watering. The rate for a mature tree is 100–150 litres. This watering is done in dry autumn (September – early October) to create a moisture reserve for winter (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Seasonal requirement. In arid regions with little rainfall, cherries can consume 750–1000 mm of water per season (Hanson and Proebsting, 1996; Neilsen et al., 2017). For comparison: in commercial orchards in Oregon (USA), average monthly irrigation rates are: May — 10 cm, June — 15 cm, July — 20 cm, August — 18 cm, September — 10 cm (Long et al., 2021). In a home garden, these figures can be used as a guide, adjusted for actual rainfall.

Soil Wetting Depth

The depth to which water should penetrate is as important as the volume.

Why this matters. The bulk of cherry absorbing roots is located in the upper 45‑cm layer, although individual roots may go down to 60–90 cm (Neilsen et al., 2017; Long et al., 2021). If only the surface layer (10–15 cm) is wetted, roots will not develop deeper, the tree will become shallow‑rooted, suffer from drought, and tolerate frosts poorly. Moreover, surface watering leads to rapid evaporation, making water use inefficient.

Recommended depth. For cherries, the optimal wetting depth is 40–60 cm. This corresponds to the zone where most active roots are located. In hot summers and on light soils, the depth can be increased to 60–70 cm to create a moisture reserve for several days.

How to check depth. The simplest way is to dig a small hole with a spade or use a soil auger. If the soil is moist at 40 cm, the watering was done correctly. If dry—there was not enough water. You can also use a metal rod: moist soil is easier to penetrate, dry soil offers more resistance.

In practice, this means that in one watering you need to supply enough water to wet the soil to the required depth. On sandy soils, less water is needed (it percolates faster); on clay soils, more, but the infiltration rate is lower, so watering should be longer but with lower intensity to avoid surface runoff.

Soil Moisture Control

To avoid guessing whether there is enough moisture, it is useful to use simple and accessible monitoring methods.

Visual‑tactile method. Take a soil sample from a depth of 10–15 cm and squeeze it in your palm. If the soil is dry and crumbles—it is time to water. If it is moist and forms a lump—watering can be postponed. At a depth of 30–40 cm, the soil should always be moist. This method is simple but requires experience.

Using moisture meters. For more accurate control, it is recommended to install tensiometers or other moisture sensors at depths of 30 and 60 cm (Long et al., 2021). These instruments measure soil moisture in pressure units (kPa) and allow you to determine when to start irrigation.

Threshold values for cherries:

• On loamy and sandy loam soils, irrigation should start when the tensiometer reading at 30 cm reaches 30–40 kPa (Long et al., 2021).
• On light loams — 20–30 kPa, on clays — 35–45 kPa.
• Stop irrigation when readings at 30 cm return to 10–20 kPa (field capacity) (Long et al., 2021).

For amateur gardeners, a good rule of thumb is to maintain soil moisture in the root zone at a level close to field capacity, avoiding a decrease of more than 50% of available water (Long et al., 2021). This means watering should be done when the soil has dried by about half of the maximum possible storage.

Allowable moisture reduction. For cherries, the allowable reduction of available soil moisture is about 50% (Long et al., 2021). That is, water when trees have used half of the water available to roots. This avoids stress and maintains steady growth.

Practical example. If the field capacity of a loamy soil is 24% (gravimetric moisture) and the wilting point is 12%, then available water is 12%. A 50% reduction means watering should start when moisture drops to 18% (24% – 6% = 18%). In practice, this corresponds to tensiometer readings around 30–40 kPa.

Effect of Soil Type on Watering Rates

Soil type determines not only frequency but also the volume of irrigation.

Sandy and sandy loam soils. Water percolates quickly, so irrigation should be more frequent (every 3–5 days in hot weather) but in smaller amounts—30–40 litres for a young tree and 60–80 litres for a mature tree. The wetting depth is reached faster, but moisture retention is poor.

Loamy and clayey soils. Water infiltrates slowly but is well retained. Watering can be done less often (every 7–10 days) but more abundantly—up to 100–150 litres per mature tree. On such soils, it is important to avoid overwatering and waterlogging, as cherry roots are sensitive to oxygen deficiency (Webster, 1996; Westwood, 1993).

Heavy clay and waterlogged soils are not recommended for cherries at all, as roots suffocate. If an orchard is already established on such soils, watering should be minimal and only during the driest periods.

Conclusion

The correct volume of irrigation is not a random number but a calculation based on knowledge of the tree's needs and soil properties. The main rules:

• Wet the soil to a depth of 40–60 cm.
• A mature tree receives 50–100 litres per watering, in hot weather up to 150 litres.
• A young tree — 20–40 litres.
• In autumn — pre‑winter watering of 100–150 litres.
• Control moisture using simple methods or instruments.
• Account for soil type: sand requires more frequent but smaller amounts; clay requires less frequent but larger amounts.

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Basin (Root‑Zone) Watering

This method is the classic of home gardening. Water is applied directly to the zone where the bulk of roots are located, i.e., the root zone of the tree.

Implementation methods. The simplest option is just to pour water from a watering can or hose under the tree. However, water may spread without reaching the required depth. It is much more effective to use techniques that direct moisture to the roots:

• Ring trenches (furrows). Around the periphery of the canopy projection, one or several trenches are made, 15–25 cm deep and 20–30 cm wide. Water is poured into them. The trenches are placed 40–50 cm apart (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). This method ensures even moisture distribution over the entire area of absorbing roots. After water has soaked in, the trenches are levelled or mulched.

• Watering into pits. Around the tree, also at the crown periphery, several pits 20–30 cm deep are dug (usually 4–6). Water is poured into them, which gradually percolates downward. This method is especially good on dense soils where water infiltrates slowly (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

• Flooding the root zone. On level areas, you can simply fill the root zone with water, having first made an earthen roller 15–20 cm high around its boundaries. Water slowly infiltrates, wetting the soil evenly.

Advantages. Simplicity and accessibility. No special equipment is required. Well suited for small orchards (up to 5–10 trees). Allows precise dosing of water under each tree.

Disadvantages. Labour‑intensive—especially with many trees. Requires regular renewal of trenches and pits. Careless watering can wash away soil and expose roots. On slopes, water may run off without reaching its target. With surface watering without depressions, a significant portion of moisture evaporates without penetrating deeply.

Drip Irrigation

Drip irrigation is one of the most efficient and water‑saving methods, widely used in modern orchards (Long et al., 2021; Neilsen et al., 2017). Water is applied in small portions directly to the root zone through special emitters (drippers).

Working principle. The system consists of a main pipeline, filter, pressure regulator, and drip lines (usually thin tubes) laid along the tree rows. Emitters are placed near each tree, typically 2–4 units at a distance of 25–50 cm from the trunk (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021). Water is supplied at low pressure and slowly (1–4 litres per hour) percolates into the soil, forming a wet bulb that corresponds to the active root zone.

Advantages of drip irrigation:

• Water savings. Water goes directly to the roots, with minimal losses from evaporation and runoff (Agustí, 2010). Compared to sprinkling, savings can reach 40–60%.
• Constant moisture. Soil in the root zone is maintained at an optimal moisture level without sharp fluctuations, which is especially important for cherries during fruit growth (Long et al., 2021).
• Fertigation capability. Soluble fertilisers can be easily applied through the drip system directly to the root zone (Neilsen et al., 2017; Agustí, 2010).
• Fewer weeds. Only the root zone is wetted, while row middles remain dry, suppressing weed growth.
• Suitable for any terrain. Drip irrigation is effective even on steep slopes where other methods cause runoff.
• Less disease. Water does not reach leaves and fruits, thus reducing the risk of fungal infections (e.g., moniliosis or coccomycosis).

Disadvantages:

• High equipment cost. Requires pipes, fittings, filters, emitters, and possibly a pump.
• Emitter clogging. Emitters can be blocked by mechanical particles, salts, or algae. A filtration system and regular flushing are needed.
• Limited wetting zone. Roots concentrate in local wet areas. In severe drought, if the system fails, the tree can quickly suffer, as other soil areas remain dry (Agustí, 2010). In rainy periods, excess moisture in the local zone can lead to root rot.
• Sensitivity to pressure fluctuations. Stable pressure and accurate system design are required for uniform operation of all emitters.

Recommendations for amateur gardeners. Drip irrigation pays off in orchards of 10–15 trees or more. For a small garden, ready‑made drip kits can be purchased, which connect to a barrel or water tap. It is important to install a filter (mesh or disc) and regularly (every 2–3 weeks) check the operation of emitters. When planting young trees, place emitters 25 cm from the trunk; as trees grow, move them further away (Agustí, 2010).

Sprinkler Irrigation

Sprinkler irrigation is watering where water is sprayed into the air and falls on plants and soil as droplets, imitating natural rain. Both stationary and portable systems are used in horticulture.

Varieties. In home gardens, sprinkler nozzles connected to a hose or small stationary sprinklers installed between trees are commonly used. In commercial orchards, both over‑canopy and under‑canopy sprinklers can be used (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).

Advantages:

• Uniform wetting. Covers a large area, including row middles, which can be useful for maintaining lawns or cover crops.
• Cooling and frost protection. In regions with spring frost risk, sprinkling can be used to protect flowers: as water freezes, it releases heat (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).
• Washes leaves. Removes dust and some pests.
• Automation. The system can be easily automated with timers and rain sensors.

Disadvantages:

• High water consumption. A significant portion of moisture is lost to evaporation, especially in hot and windy weather.
• Water on leaves and fruits. This can trigger fungal diseases (moniliosis, coccomycosis), especially in cool and humid weather (Agustí, 2010; Webster, 1996).
• Soil compaction. Heavy drops can destroy the structure of the topsoil, forming a crust.
• Wind dependence. Wind can carry droplets, making watering uneven.
• Difficulty on slopes. On steep slopes, water may run off before infiltrating, leading to erosion.

When to apply. Sprinkling is more often used on large areas where other methods are labour‑intensive. In small gardens, it may be justified if the plot is flat, water is cheap, and diseases are not a serious threat. For cherries, which are sensitive to fungal infections, under‑canopy sprinkling—where water is distributed under the canopy without wetting foliage—is preferable (Agustí, 2010). Otherwise, sprinkling is best combined with preventive fungicide treatments.

Subsurface Irrigation

This method involves supplying water directly to the root zone through special pipes or porous hoses laid at a depth of 20–40 cm.

Working principle. Perforated pipes or special porous hoses (e.g., made of foamed polyethylene) are laid along the tree rows at a depth of 30–40 cm. Water under low pressure seeps through the walls and moistens the soil within a radius of 20–40 cm (Long et al., 2021).

Advantages:

• Minimal evaporation losses. Water goes directly to the root zone and is fully used by the plant.
• No contact of water with leaves and fruits. Reduces fungal disease risk.
• Preserves soil structure. No crust formation, no aeration disturbance.
• Fertigation possible. Fertilisers are applied with water directly to the roots.
• Uniform wetting. With a properly designed system, moisture distributes throughout the root zone.

Disadvantages:

• Installation and repair complexity. Requires digging trenches and laying pipes. Repair in case of clogging or damage is very difficult.
• High cost. Especially if pumping equipment and filters are needed.
• Pore clogging. Porous walls can become blocked by salts and mechanical particles, reducing flow capacity. Requires regular system flushing with special solutions.
• Limited applicability. Effective on level areas with uniform soil. Works less well on slopes or heavy clay soils.

Use in a home garden. Subsurface irrigation in its pure form is rarely used in small home gardens due to complexity and cost. However, gardeners may use a simplified version: bury plastic bottles with holes at a depth of 25–30 cm or use pieces of porous hoses. But such homemade systems often clog and require frequent maintenance. Overall, subsurface irrigation is more typical for intensive commercial orchards.

Comparative Table of Watering Methods

Recommendations for Choosing a Method

For most amateur gardeners with 5 to 20 cherry trees, the best choice is a combined approach:

1. Drip irrigation — for regular watering throughout the season, especially during fruit swelling. It saves water and time, providing roots with moisture without disease risk. On small plots, inexpensive drip kits connected to a barrel or tap can be used.

2. Root‑zone watering (trenches, pits) — as a backup or additional method, for example, for applying liquid fertilisers or for pre‑winter watering in autumn. This method requires no equipment and is accessible to everyone.

3. Sprinkling — can be used in emergencies (e.g., frost protection) or for watering lawns in row middles, but not as the main method for cherries due to fungal disease risk.

Important note. Regardless of the chosen method, the key remains compliance with watering rates and wetting depth (40–60 cm). Even the most perfect system will not give results if you water frequently but in small portions, only wetting the surface.

In the next chapter, we will consider how to retain moisture in the soil and reduce watering frequency through mulching and proper soil management.

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Mulching

Mulching is covering the soil surface in the root zone with a layer of organic or inorganic material. This technique is one of the most effective and affordable ways to conserve moisture in amateur horticulture.

How it works. Mulch acts as a physical barrier between the soil and the atmosphere. It interrupts the capillary rise of water from lower layers to the surface, where it could evaporate. In addition, mulch reduces soil heating by sunlight, which also decreases evaporation. Organic mulch additionally absorbs and retains moisture in itself, gradually releasing it to the soil (Westwood, 1993; Agustí, 2010).

Types of mulch and their characteristics.

Organic mulch. This includes straw, hay, mown grass, sawdust, wood chips, bark, leaf litter, compost, peat. Organic mulch not only conserves moisture but also, as it decomposes, improves soil structure, increases humus and nutrient content (Westwood, 1993; Neilsen et al., 2017). However, decomposition consumes nitrogen, so in the first years of using such mulch, additional nitrogen fertilisation may be required (Neilsen et al., 2017; Long et al., 2021).

• Straw and hay — retain moisture well but may contain weed seeds. The layer should be at least 10–15 cm for effective mulching.
• Sawdust and wood chips — decompose slowly, conserve moisture well, but may acidify the soil. It is better to use rotted sawdust or compost them with nitrogen fertilisers.
• Conifer bark and chips — decorative, durable, but decompose slowly and may also acidify the soil.
• Compost and manure humus — not only mulch but also fertilise and improve soil structure. Layer 5–8 cm.
• Mown grass — accessible material, decomposes quickly, but may contain weed seeds. Lay in a 5–7 cm layer after pre‑drying.

Inorganic mulch. This includes black or reflective polyethylene film, geotextile (weed barrier), roofing felt, cardboard. Such materials completely prevent evaporation and suppress weeds but do not improve the soil (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).

• Black polyethylene film — the cheapest option. It effectively retains moisture and suppresses weeds, but does not allow air exchange and can overheat the soil in summer. Not recommended for long‑term use as it disturbs root gas exchange.
• Geotextile (agrofabric) — breathable material, allows air and water to pass, but prevents evaporation and weed growth. Lasts 5–7 years or more. Often used in intensive orchards (Long et al., 2021; Agustí, 2010).
• Reflective films (white, silver) — besides moisture conservation, reflect light into the canopy, improving illumination and fruit colour (Long et al., 2021). Used in commercial orchards.

Rules for laying mulch.

1. Layer thickness for organic mulch — at least 5–8 cm, optimally 10–15 cm. A thinner layer is ineffective, as it dries quickly and does not suppress weeds.

2. Distance from trunk — 5–10 cm. Mulch should not touch the trunk to avoid bark rot and fungal diseases, and to prevent rodent shelter (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).

3. Mulched area — should correspond to the canopy projection, as the bulk of absorbing roots is located there (Westwood, 1993). As the tree grows, the mulched area is expanded.

4. Soil preparation — before laying mulch, loosen and water the soil. Apply mulch on moist soil.

5. Layer renewal — organic mulch decomposes over time, so it is replenished annually or every 2–3 years to maintain the required thickness.

Advantages of mulching. Reduces evaporation by 30–70% depending on mulch type and weather (Agustí, 2010; Westwood, 1993). Suppresses weed growth, reducing competition for water and nutrients. Improves soil structure and biological activity (when using organics). Protects from overheating in summer and freezing in winter. Prevents soil crust formation and erosion.

Disadvantages and risks. Organic mulch can attract rodents (mice, voles), especially in winter, so in cold periods mulch is often removed or pulled away from the trunk (Cornell Guide, 2003; Long et al., 2021). On heavy clay soils, a thick mulch layer may promote waterlogging and root rot in wet years (Cornell Guide, 2003). Organic mulch may introduce weed seeds if using poor‑quality material.

Practical recommendations. For amateur gardeners, the best choice is organic mulch (compost, manure humus, mown grass, bark). It is accessible, improves soil, and effectively conserves moisture. A layer of 8–10 cm, applied in spring after the first watering, provides the tree with moisture for the entire season, reducing the number of waterings by 1.5–2 times. In arid regions and on sandy soils, mulching is practically mandatory.

Soil Management

How the gardener cultivates the soil in the orchard directly affects the soil's ability to retain moisture. There are two main approaches: tillage (black fallow) and sodding (lawn or cover crops). Both have pros and cons.

Tillage (black fallow). This method involves regular loosening and digging of the soil in the root zones and between rows, without plant cover (Agustí, 2010; Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

How it works. Loosening breaks capillaries in the topsoil through which water rises to the surface and evaporates. The upper layer becomes loose, acting as “dry mulch” that prevents further evaporation (Westwood, 1993). In addition, loose soil allows better air penetration to roots and absorbs precipitation and irrigation water more quickly.

Advantages:

• Effective moisture conservation during dry periods.
• Improved root aeration.
• Simplicity and accessibility (no special materials needed).
• Possibility to apply fertilisers during cultivation.

Disadvantages:

• Labour‑intensive — regular loosening requires time and effort.
• Soil structure degradation with frequent deep cultivation.
• Erosion on slopes (bare soil is easily washed away by rain and blown by wind).
• Reduced biological activity and organic matter content in the soil (Agustí, 2010; Westwood, 1993).

Practice. In the first 2–3 years after planting, while young trees have not yet occupied the entire feeding area, the soil in the root zone is loosened to a depth of 8–10 cm after each watering or rain to prevent crust formation. Weeds are removed (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). Mature trees are maintained under black fallow with autumn or spring digging to a depth of 20–25 cm in row middles and no deeper than 10–15 cm near the trunk to avoid root damage (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). Digging is combined with fertiliser application.

Sodding (lawn or cover crops). This method involves maintaining the row middles and even root zones under permanent grass cover (natural or sown). In the row middles, lawn grasses or special mixtures (clover, bluegrass, fescue) are sown (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).

How it works. Grass protects the soil from overheating and direct evaporation, reduces wind speed at the surface. Moreover, grass roots structure the soil, improve water permeability and water‑holding capacity. However, grass itself consumes water and competes with the tree (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).

Advantages:

• Erosion protection.
• Improved soil structure and increased organic matter.
• Machinery can pass in any weather (with dense sod).
• Reduced soil overheating in summer.
• Aesthetic appearance of the orchard.

Disadvantages:

• Competition for water and nutrients. In arid regions this can be critical (Agustí, 2010).
• Requires regular mowing (at least 3–4 times per season).
• Grass may harbour rodents and pests.
• Sodding increases fertiliser requirements (by 1.5–2 times) (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Combined approach (recommended). The most effective is to combine sodding of row middles with mulching or tillage of the root strip (Agustí, 2010; Cornell Guide, 2003). In row middles — lawn or cover crops (this protects against erosion and compaction), and in the root strip, 1.5–2 m wide — mulch (organic or geotextile) or tillage. This approach minimises competition for moisture, preserves soil structure, and saves labour.

Effect on moisture. Sodding in hot summer can increase water consumption by the tree by 10–20% due to grass transpiration (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021). Therefore, in arid regions without irrigation, sodding is not recommended—black fallow is preferred. With drip irrigation, sodding is acceptable, but irrigation rates should be increased.

Reducing Evaporation

In addition to mulching and proper soil cultivation, there are other techniques to reduce moisture losses.

Choosing watering time. This is the simplest and most effective method. Watering in the morning or evening (before 10 am or after 6 pm) significantly reduces evaporation losses compared to daytime watering when the sun is most active (Westwood, 1993). On hot days, even morning watering is more effective than evening, as moisture has time to penetrate deeper during the night.

Shading. In very hot regions, shading nets can be used, or tall windbreak plants (sunflower, maize) can be planted on the west side to create shade in the afternoon. However, care must be taken that shading is not excessive and does not reduce photosynthesis. This technique is rarely used in home gardens.

Proper planting and canopy shaping. A dense canopy shades the root zone, reducing soil heating and evaporation. Therefore, timely pruning aimed at thinning and improving light penetration indirectly helps conserve moisture (Westwood, 1993). In addition, proper formation with a low trunk and spreading canopy creates more shade on the root zone than a tall, compact tree.

Weed control. Weeds are powerful competitors for water. They take not only nutrients but also a significant amount of moisture from the cherry tree. Weeds in the root strip are especially dangerous in the first years after planting. Regular weed removal (tillage, hand weeding, herbicides, mulching) can save up to 20–30% of water (Cornell Guide, 2003; Long et al., 2021).

Improving soil structure. Application of organic fertilisers (compost, manure humus) and use of green manures (cover crops) increase organic matter content in the soil, which raises its water‑holding capacity. Soil with high humus content retains more water and dries more slowly (Westwood, 1993; Neilsen et al., 2017). This technique is especially important on sandy soils.

Integrated Moisture Conservation Strategy

For most amateur gardeners, the optimal moisture conservation strategy is:

1. Mulch the root zone with organic material (compost, bark, mown grass) in a layer of 8–10 cm, with a gap from the trunk. This is the main technique giving the greatest effect at minimal cost.

2. Tillage (or use of geotextile) in the root zone to suppress weeds.

3. Sodding of row middles (lawn) to protect against erosion and improve soil structure, with regular mowing.

4. Water in the morning or evening to minimise evaporation.

5. Add organic matter to increase soil water‑holding capacity.

Such a system can reduce the number of waterings by 30–50% even in hot summers, providing the tree with stable moisture access and reducing the gardener's workload.

In the next, final chapter, we will analyse typical mistakes when watering cherries—what you should categorically avoid to prevent harming the tree.

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Mistake 1. Shallow Watering

What it is. The gardener waters frequently but in small amounts, wetting only the top 5–10 cm of soil. Water does not reach the bulk of roots, which in cherries are located at a depth of 20–45 cm (Neilsen et al., 2017; Long et al., 2021).

Why it is bad. Roots, seeking moisture, develop superficially, becoming more vulnerable to drought and frost. In hot weather, the upper layer dries quickly, and the tree experiences stress even if the gardener waters regularly. Moreover, frequent shallow watering promotes soil crust formation, impairing aeration (Westwood, 1993).

How to avoid. Water rarely but abundantly. A mature tree should receive 50–100 litres per watering so that water wets the soil to a depth of 40–60 cm. Check the wetting depth with a spade or soil auger. Use trenches, pits, or drip irrigation to direct water downward rather than spreading over the surface (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

Mistake 2. Overwatering and Waterlogging

What it is. The gardener waters too often or too abundantly, especially on heavy clay soils where water does not infiltrate quickly and stagnates in the root zone.

Why it is bad. Cherry roots are extremely sensitive to oxygen deficiency in waterlogged soil (Webster, 1996; Westwood, 1993). Stagnant water leads to root rot, development of fungal diseases (e.g., Phytophthora), and can cause tree death. Even short‑term flooding (8–10 days) can be lethal, especially for trees on sensitive rootstocks (Beckman, 1990; cited in Webster, 1996). Furthermore, overwatering during fruit ripening provokes cracking (Westwood, 1993; Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004).

How to avoid. Rely on soil condition, not a calendar. Before watering, check moisture at a depth of 10–15 cm—if the soil is moist, postpone watering. On clay soils, water less often (every 7–10 days) but ensure water does not stagnate. Provide drainage at planting. If the site is prone to waterlogging, plant cherries on mounds or ridges (Webster, 1996). Do not water if heavy rain is expected in the next few days.

Mistake 3. Missing Critical Period Watering

What it is. The gardener skips waterings during key development phases—active shoot growth (June) and fruit swelling (late June – July)—or waters too late, when the tree is already under stress.

Why it is bad. During active shoot growth, lack of moisture limits leaf formation and flower bud initiation for the next year (Westwood, 1993; Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). During fruit swelling, water deficit directly reduces berry size and weight (Long et al., 2021; Neilsen et al., 2017). Delaying watering cannot compensate for the damage already done.

How to avoid. Follow a watering schedule tied to phenological phases. In central Russia, it is recommended to water immediately after flowering (late May – early June), 3–4 weeks after flowering (second half of June), and if necessary—in July (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004). In hot summers, June and July waterings are mandatory. Do not forget about pre‑winter autumn watering (September – early October), especially in dry years.

Mistake 4. Watering with Cold Water

What it is. Using water from a well or borehole that has a temperature below 10–12°C directly for root irrigation.

Why it is bad. Cold water causes root shock, reducing absorption and nutrient uptake. This is especially dangerous on hot days when a sharp temperature contrast can damage fine absorbing roots. Biochemical processes in the soil slow down in cold water, reducing microbial activity (Westwood, 1993).

How to avoid. If possible, allow water to stand in barrels or tanks in the sun for 1–2 days. Water temperature should be close to soil temperature (15–20°C). In extreme cases, cold water irrigation is only acceptable with drip irrigation, where water is applied slowly and warms up along the way to the roots.

Mistake 5. Over‑the‑Canopy Watering in Sunny Weather

What it is. The gardener uses sprinkling in the middle of the day, when water lands on leaves and fruits and then evaporates under direct sunlight.

Why it is bad. Water droplets on leaves act as lenses, intensifying solar radiation and causing leaf and fruit burns (Westwood, 1993). Additionally, wet leaves in warm weather are an ideal environment for fungal diseases (moniliosis, coccomycosis, septoria). Sprinkling during fruit ripening is especially dangerous, as water on berries can trigger cracking (Agustí, 2010; Webster, 1996).

How to avoid. Use root‑zone, drip, or subsurface irrigation—methods that do not wet foliage. If for some reason you must use sprinkling, do it only in the morning or evening when the sun is not active. During fruit ripening, it is best to avoid sprinkling entirely.

Mistake 6. Ignoring Pre‑Winter Watering

What it is. The gardener does not do autumn watering, believing that after harvest the tree no longer needs water, or relying on autumn rains.

Why it is bad. Pre‑winter watering creates a moisture reserve in the soil for winter. Moist soil freezes more slowly, protecting the root system from cold. Moreover, the tree uses moisture even in winter (evaporation through bark, respiration), and in dry autumn may suffer from tissue desiccation (Mikheev and Revyakina, 2004; Westwood, 1993). This watering is especially important for young trees and in regions with harsh, low‑snow winters.

How to avoid. Carry out pre‑winter watering annually in September – early October if autumn is dry. Rate: 100–150 litres per mature tree, 40–60 litres per young tree. Water after leaf fall but before persistent frosts. If autumn is rainy, watering can be reduced or cancelled, but moisture control is mandatory.

Mistake 7. Wrong Choice of Watering Method

What it is. Using a method that does not match soil type, terrain, or tree age. For example, sprinkling on clay soils leading to overwatering; surface watering on slopes where water runs off; drip irrigation without filtration on sandy soils where emitters clog quickly.

Why it is bad. Each method is suitable for certain conditions. The wrong choice leads to inefficient water use, tree stress, disease development, or even plant death (Agustí, 2010; Long et al., 2021).

How to avoid. When choosing a watering method, consider:

• Soil type: sand — drip or frequent pit watering; clay — trenches or infrequent abundant watering with moisture control.
• Terrain: on slopes — drip or subsurface; on flat ground — any method.
• Tree age: young — root‑zone watering; mature — drip or trenches.
• Water availability: if scarce — drip, the most economical.
• r most amateur gardeners, the optimal choice is a combination of drip irrigation (regular seasonal watering) and trench watering (pre‑winter and emergency waterings).

Mistake 8. Ignoring Soil Moisture Monitoring

What it is. The gardener waters “by eye,” without checking how deep the soil has dried and whether the tree received enough water.

Why it is bad. Without moisture monitoring, it is impossible to determine either the required water volume or the watering frequency. This is the main cause of both shallow watering and overwatering. The gardener acts blindly, rather than based on the tree's needs.

How to avoid. Use simple and accessible monitoring methods:

• Visual‑tactile: squeeze a handful of soil from a depth of 10–15 cm—if it crumbles, it is time to water.
• Soil auger or spade: check wetting depth (40–60 cm) after each watering.
• Tensiometers or moisture meters: for more accurate control (especially useful in intensive orchards) (Long et al., 2021).
• Keep records: watering date, volume, wetting depth, weather conditions—this will help develop an optimal scheme for your site.

Conclusion: How to Avoid Mistakes — Practical Rules

To ensure cherry watering is beneficial, not harmful, remember a few simple but important rules:

1. Water rarely but abundantly. Water should wet the soil to 40–60 cm, not just the surface.

2. Consider development phases. The most important periods—shoot growth (June) and fruit swelling (late June – July). Do not skip waterings at these times.

3. Control moisture. Rely on soil condition, not a calendar. Use simple checking methods.

4. Avoid overwatering. On clay soils, water less often; on sandy soils, more often but in smaller amounts.

5. Carry out pre‑winter autumn watering. This is key to successful overwintering.

6. Choose a watering method suitable for your conditions. Drip — for water savings and tree health; trenches — for simplicity and accessibility; sprinkling — only when necessary and with caution.

7. Mulch and loosen. This helps conserve moisture and reduces the number of waterings.

8. Do not water with cold water or over leaves on a sunny day.

By following these rules, you will ensure an optimal water regime for your cherry orchard, guaranteeing tree health, stable yields of large, juicy, and sweet fruits, while saving your time and effort. Remember: proper watering is not difficult—it just requires attention and understanding of plant needs.