White cabbage

From a Wild "Sea" Plant to a Garden Crop

The original form for all modern types of cabbage is wild cabbage (Brassica oleracea) (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997). This herb still grows today on coastal cliffs and bluffs of the Atlantic and Mediterranean (Dixon, 2007). Wild cabbage does not form a head but only a rosette of leaves. It is hardy and resistant to salt, wind, and poor soils.

Why should a gardener know this? Understanding its origins helps us realize why modern cabbage is so cold-hardy and prefers a cool, humid climate, yet fears intense heat and drought. Its Mediterranean roots explain why it grows better in regions with mild winters and cool summers (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997).

The Path to Cultivation: From Medicine to Food

Cabbage was domesticated in ancient times. It began to be cultivated more than 3000 years BC (Nonnecke, 1989). The first cultivators were the peoples of the Mediterranean. The ancient Greeks and Romans highly valued cabbage, but initially not so much as food, but as a universal medicine. It was believed to cure many ailments, from headaches to digestive problems (Swiader et al., 1992). "Enquiry into Plants" by Theophrastus and the works of other ancient scholars mention cabbage, indicating its importance even in those times (Dixon, 2007).

However, it was only in the Middle Ages, thanks to the work of monks and breeders, that cabbage turned into a full-fledged food crop. European peasants and gardeners began actively selecting plants with the most valuable traits:

For head cabbage: selection was aimed at thickening the stem and leaves, and then at forming a dense terminal bud, which we now call the head. It was precisely through centuries of selection from a simple leafy form that white cabbage emerged (Nieuwhof, 1969; Startsev, 2021).

Global Distribution

From Europe, cabbage traveled to other parts of the world:

• To North America, it was brought by the first European colonists in the 16th century (Nonnecke, 1989). Cabbage adapted well to the new continent, especially in the northern states and Canada.
• To Asia, including China and Korea, cabbage came via trade routes. In Asia, it gave rise to its own unique forms, although white cabbage itself remained a predominantly European crop.

Today, white cabbage is one of the main vegetable crops in the world. It is grown from tropical highlands to subpolar regions. In terms of gross harvest, it ranks first among vegetable crops in many countries, including Russia (Welbaum, 2015). Such wide distribution is explained by its high yield, good transportability, and, most importantly, its ability to be stored for a long time, providing people with fresh vitamins throughout the long winter.

This is the legacy of our gardener ancestors, who, from a humble coastal plant, created the basis of our winter table, and which we continue to improve on our plots.

Now that we know where our "green friend" comes from, let's move on to its exact "pedigree" and learn how it is classified and who its "relatives" are. We will analyze the taxonomic characteristics of this crop.

The Botanical "Passport" of Cabbage

Here is a clear hierarchy into which our crop fits (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997; Dixon, 2007):

Family: Brassicaceae (Mustard or Cabbage family). In older textbooks, it is often called Cruciferae (Crucifers). Both names are correct, but the second is very descriptive: it comes from the shape of the flower, whose four petals are arranged crosswise.

Genus: Brassica (Brassica or Cabbage). This is one of the most important genera in agriculture. It includes not only vegetables but also oilseed crops (e.g., rapeseed).

Species: Brassica oleracea L. ("Garden Cabbage"). It's important to pause here. The species Brassica oleracea is an amazing "tree" of breeding, from which many completely different-looking vegetables have descended (Welbaum, 2015). They all readily crossbreed with each other, confirming their common origin.

Subspecies/Variety: This is where things get interesting. Our beautiful garden cabbage is Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata L. f. alba DC. (Startsev, 2021). Let's decipher this name:

• var. capitata means "headed" (from the Latin caput — "head"). This indicates the main feature of the group: the formation of a dense terminal bud (head).
• f. alba means "white". This distinguishes white cabbage from its closest relative — red cabbage (f. rubra).

The Amazing World of Relatives (Species Brassica oleracea)

To truly appreciate the scale of breeding work, here is a list of crops that are siblings of our white cabbage (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997; Dixon, 2007; Nonnecke, 1989):

• Savoy Cabbage (var. sabauda): A close relative, but with crinkled, blistered leaves.
• Broccoli (Group Italica): A form where the immature flower heads with buds are eaten.
• Cauliflower (Group Botrytis): Forms a dense "curd" of enlarged flower stalks.
• Brussels Sprouts (var. gemmifera): Has a tall stem, on which small heads form in the leaf axils.
• Kohlrabi (var. gongylodes): Forms an edible swelling of the stem above the ground.
• Kale and Collard Greens (Group Acephala): These are non-heading leafy forms, most similar to the wild ancestor.

Why should a gardener know this? Firstly, it helps understand the principles of crop rotation. All these crops are close relatives, meaning they share common pests and diseases (e.g., clubroot). Therefore, they cannot be planted one after another in the same place. Secondly, knowing the "family tree" helps appreciate the diversity of forms and the enormous work breeders have done.

Not Just Brassica oleracea: Other Important Brassicas

Besides our species, the genus Brassica and the family Brassicaceae include other important vegetables often confused with cabbage:

• Chinese Cabbage (Napa Cabbage) (Brassica rapa subsp. pekinensis): This is a different species. It forms an elongated, loose head and has more tender leaves (Swiader et al., 1992; Welbaum, 2015).
• Pak Choi (Bok Choy) (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis): Also a separate species that does not form a head but produces a bunch of leaves on thick, succulent petioles (Swiader et al., 1992; Welbaum, 2015).
• Turnip and Rutabaga (Brassica rapa and Brassica napus): These are root vegetables, although from the same family.
• Radish and Horseradish (Raphanus sativus): Belong to the same Brassicaceae family but to a different genus.

This taxonomic clarity is your first step to successful cultivation. Now that we know the "pedigree" of cabbage, let's take a closer look at the plant itself. In the next chapter, we will analyze its botanical characteristics — how it is structured and how this affects care.

Plant Structure and Organs

Let's break down the parts of a cabbage plant and what each is responsible for.

4.1. Temperature Requirements (Thermal Regime)

This is perhaps the most important factor for cabbage. Temperature affects not only the growth rate but also the quality of the harvest.

Seed Germination: Cabbage seeds begin to germinate at temperatures of +2…+3 °C (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016; Nonnecke, 1989). However, the optimal temperature for quick and uniform germination is +18…+20 °C. At this temperature, seedlings appear within 3-4 days (Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984).

Growth and Development (Vegetative Period): For growth and head formation, the optimal temperature is considered +15…+18 °C (Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov & Mukhin, 2003). This is the main reason why cabbage grows so well in regions with cool, humid summers.

High Temperatures: Temperatures above +25 °C already negatively affect cabbage (Welbaum, 2015). It slows growth, reduces photosynthesis intensity, and, most importantly, delays heading and head growth. During prolonged heat (above +30 °C), a head may not form at all, and for those already set, density decreases (Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984; Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997).

Low Temperatures and Frost Hardiness: Cabbage is a very cold-hardy plant.

• Seedlings can withstand short-term frosts down to –2…–3 °C (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016; Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984).
• Hardened seedlings with 5-6 true leaves can tolerate frosts down to –5…–6 °C (Welbaum, 2015).
• Mature plants in the heading phase can withstand short-term cold snaps down to –8…–10 °C (Tarakanov & Mukhin, 2003). Interestingly, autumn frosts often improve the taste of cabbage, making it sweeter due to the conversion of starch into sugars.

Practical Takeaways for the Gardener:

1. Sowing and Planting Dates: Transplant seedlings into the open ground when the threat of severe frosts has passed, but don't delay, so the head formation period coincides with cool weather.

2. Heat Protection: In hot climates, use shading nets or plant cabbage between rows of tall crops (windbreaks) to protect it from the scorching sun.

3. Hardening Seedlings: Be sure to harden off seedlings before planting in the ground. Take them outside, gradually increasing the time spent outdoors. Hardened plants tolerate transplanting and spring frosts much better.

4.2. Moisture Requirements (Water Regime)

Cabbage is one of the most moisture-loving garden crops. Its large leaves transpire a huge amount of water, especially during head formation.

Water Requirement: During active growth and head filling, cabbage's water requirement is 1.5–2 times higher than that of potatoes (Tarakanov & Mukhin, 2003). A mature plant can consume up to 10 liters of water per day (Tarakanov & Mukhin, 2003).

Critical Periods: Cabbage is most sensitive to moisture deficiency in two periods:

1. Immediately after transplanting, during the rooting process.

2. During the phase of active growth and head formation. Moisture deficiency at this time drastically reduces yield and head quality (Welbaum, 2015).

Optimal Soil Moisture: For most varieties, soil moisture should be maintained at 70-80% of field capacity (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016). In simple terms, the soil under cabbage should always be moderately moist, but not waterlogged. You can determine this by feel: a handful of soil should form a firm ball.

Air Humidity: Cabbage prefers high air humidity (around 70-80%). In dry, hot weather, it suffers; leaves lose turgor, and growth stops (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997). Under such conditions, refreshing sprinkler irrigation is very effective.

Practical Takeaways for the Gardener:

1. Regular Watering: Remember the "golden rule": water cabbage infrequently but deeply. Watering should moisten the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm — down to the level of the main root mass.

2. Mulching: Use mulch (mown grass, straw, peat) to conserve soil moisture and prevent crust formation.

3. End-of-Season Caution: Stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvest (especially if the cabbage is intended for storage). Excess moisture during this period leads to head cracking and reduced storage ability (Welbaum, 2015; Nonnecke, 1989).

4.3. Light Requirements (Illumination)

Cabbage is a light-loving plant. It prefers open, well-lit areas. With insufficient light:

• Seedlings become leggy and fragile.
• Leaves of adult plants become smaller, and stems elongate.
• Loose, small heads form (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016; Swiader et al., 1992).

Cabbage is a "long-day" plant. This means that when the day length exceeds 12-14 hours, developmental processes accelerate (Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984; Swiader et al., 1992). For us, this means that the largest and densest heads form in the summer months when the day is long and temperatures are in the optimal range.

Practical Takeaways for the Gardener:

1. Site Selection: Choose only the sunniest spots for cabbage. Do not plant it in the shade of fences or trees.

2. Planting Scheme: Maintain recommended distances between plants. Dense planting leads to mutual shading and reduced yields.

4.4. Soil Requirements

Cabbage is a crop demanding in terms of soil fertility. To obtain a high yield, it needs soil rich in nutrients and well-structured.

• Mechanical Composition: The best soils for cabbage are loams (medium and light) and sandy loams rich in organic matter (Welbaum, 2015; Nonnecke, 1989). They retain moisture and nutrients well but are not prone to waterlogging.
• Soil Reaction (pH): The optimal acidity level for cabbage is pH 6.0–6.8 (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016). In more acidic soils (pH < 6.0), cabbage poorly absorbs nutrients, and the risk of clubroot disease increases significantly.
• Structure and Fertility: The soil should be deeply cultivated, loose, with a high humus content (Startsev, 2021). Only in such soil can the cabbage root system develop freely, supplying the above-ground part with water and nutrients.

Practical Takeaways for the Gardener:

1. Liming: If you have acidic soil, be sure to lime it (add dolomite flour or lime) in the autumn before planting cabbage. This will not only raise the pH to the desired level but also serve as a preventative measure against clubroot.

2. Adding Organics: Cabbage responds very well to organic fertilizers. Humus, well-rotted manure, compost — all these create an ideal "feed base" and improve soil structure. Apply them in autumn for digging (Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov & Mukhin, 2003).

3. Deep Topsoil: Since cabbage roots penetrate deeply, the soil in the bed should be deeply and loosely dug. This ensures oxygen access to the roots and allows them to explore a larger volume of soil.

Understanding these basic ecological needs is the key to success. Now, knowing what cabbage loves and tolerates, we can move on to the next, very interesting section: its life cycle and physiology. In the next chapter, we will examine how cabbage develops from seed to head and what factors influence this process.

Life Cycle and Developmental Phases

The development of cabbage in the first year can be roughly divided into several sequential phases, each requiring special attention.

Summary of Cabbage Growth Physiology

In the next chapter, we will discuss the chemical composition of cabbage and understand what we actually grow this remarkable vegetable for. What vitamins and minerals does it contain, and what benefits does it bring to our body?

Main Components and Their Significance

Although cabbage is about 90% water, its "dry residue" is a valuable set of biologically active compounds (Kasynkina & Kudin, 2018). On average, the dry matter content in a white cabbage head is 8-10% (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016; Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984).

Let's break down its composition by main groups.

The Vitamin "Bouquet": A, C, K, and B Group

Cabbage is a recognized source of vitamins, especially vitamin C.

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): This is the main "treasure" of cabbage. The vitamin C content ranges from 30 to 50 mg% and higher (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016; Nonnecke, 1989). For comparison: lemons and tangerines contain less, and carrots contain almost 10 times less (Welbaum, 2015). But the most amazing thing is that this vitamin preserves remarkably well in cabbage during storage and especially during fermentation! Sauerkraut can contain even more vitamin C than fresh cabbage (Kasynkina & Kudin, 2018; Startsev, 2021). This makes sauerkraut a unique "winter" source of vitamin C.

Vitamin U (S-Methylmethionine): This substance was first isolated from cabbage juice and named after the Latin word ulcus — "ulcer." Vitamin U has a powerful anti-ulcer effect, promoting the healing of the gastric and duodenal mucosa (Welbaum, 2015; Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997). Fresh cabbage juice is considered an effective remedy for gastritis with high acidity.

Vitamin K (Phylloquinone): Cabbage is one of the best plant sources of vitamin K, which plays a key role in blood clotting. For example, Brussels sprouts and kale can contain up to 4 mg% (Welbaum, 2015).

B Vitamins and Provitamin A (Carotene): Cabbage contains vitamins B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B3 (PP, niacin), B6 (pyridoxine) and folic acid (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016; Welbaum, 2015). Red cabbage has significantly higher content of provitamin A (carotene) and anthocyanins.

Mineral Composition: Calcium, Potassium, and Trace Elements

Cabbage is rich in mineral salts, especially potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and iron (Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984; Nonnecke, 1989).

• Potassium (K): Important for normal heart function and removing excess fluid from the body. 100 g of cabbage contains about 300-400 mg of potassium.
• Calcium (Ca): Although it is not absorbed from cabbage as well as from dairy products, its high content makes cabbage beneficial for strengthening bones and teeth. Particularly high in calcium are leafy forms and broccoli (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997).
• Trace Elements: Cabbage contains sulfur, iodine, silicon, boron, copper, zinc, cobalt, and even selenium (Welbaum, 2015). These elements participate in metabolism and support the immune system.

"Mustard Oils" and Glycosides — The Distinctive "Signature" of Cabbage

The taste and specific smell of cabbage are due to the presence of glycosides (mustard oils) (Welbaum, 2015). These compounds have bactericidal properties, suppressing the growth of harmful bacteria in the intestines. They also give cabbage its characteristic, slightly "sharp" taste.

Important nuance: In fresh cabbage, glycosides are in a bound, safe form. However, when chewing or damaging tissues, they break down, releasing active substances (isothiocyanates), which not only protect the plant from pests but also, according to modern research, can exhibit anti-tumor activity (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997). It is this property that has generated enormous scientific interest in cabbage and other crucifers in recent decades as potential cancer prevention agents.

What Does This Mean for the Gardener? Why Do We Know All This?

Understanding the chemical composition helps to consciously approach the choice of variety and technology.

1. For Long-Term Storage: If your goal is to provide your family with vitamins for the winter, choose late-maturing varieties. They accumulate more sugars and dry matter, which serve as "fuel" for their respiration during storage.

2. For Fermentation: Mid-late varieties with high sugar content are considered the best, as they ensure proper fermentation and yield the most delicious and crunchy product.

3. For Salads and Fresh Consumption: Early varieties are the most tender, containing less fiber and more vitamin C, making them ideal for spring salads.

In the next chapter, we will move on to the largest and most intricate part — classification and varieties. We will organize this immense diversity of varieties and forms so you can easily navigate endless catalogs and choose exactly what suits you.

7.1. By Maturity Time (Maturity Groups)

This is the most common and gardener-friendly classification. The maturity time determines not only the harvest dates but also the purpose of the cabbage and its storage ability (Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984; Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016).

7.2. By External Appearance and Head Shape

Although they are all white cabbage, their heads can vary greatly in shape (Swiader et al., 1992).

• Round and Round-Flat: The most common and commercially demanded varieties ('Slava', 'Podarok', 'Amager').
• Flat (Depressed): So-called "flat" varieties ('Moscow Late 15'), often very large and productive.
• Conical (Elongated): Traditional forms for some regions ('Winterstadt').

7.3. By Color: White and Red Cabbage

As we already know, these are two related forms of the species Brassica oleracea var. capitata.

• White Cabbage (f. alba): The most common. The head leaves are white, cream, or yellowish due to the lack of chlorophyll. On the cut, it is white (Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016).
• Red Cabbage (f. rubra): Contains the pigment anthocyanin, giving the leaves a red-purple hue (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997). It is more cold-hardy and stores better than white cabbage. Used mainly for salads and pickling, as it often turns an unappetizing blue color when cooked.

7.4. By Leaf Surface: Smooth and Savoy

• Smooth-leaved: Typical for most white cabbage varieties.
• Savoy (var. sabauda): Distinguished by strongly crinkled, "blistered" leaves. Has a more delicate taste and texture, but stores less well (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997; Welbaum, 2015). Although we list it separately, in classification, it goes as a separate variety (var. sabauda) of the species B. oleracea.

7.5. By Product Purpose

This characteristic is closely linked to maturity time and is the main practical selection criterion.

• Salad Varieties: Predominantly early-maturing. Used for fresh consumption. Have a thin, delicate leaf structure.
• Pickling (Fermenting) Varieties: Mostly mid-season and mid-late. They must accumulate enough sugars for fermentation. It is believed that the best varieties for fermentation in Russia are 'Slava 1305', 'Moscow Late 15', 'Podarok', 'Belorusskaya 455' (Kasynkina & Kudin, 2018; Startsev, 2021).
• Storage Varieties: Typically late-maturing. They have high density, a short internal stump, and excellent resistance to diseases during storage. Classics are 'Amager 611' and 'Zimovka 1474' (Welbaum, 2015; Nonnecke, 1989).

7.6. By Cultivation Method: Varieties and F1 Hybrids

Today's market offers both traditional varieties (open-pollinated) and first-generation hybrids (F1).

• Varieties: Their seeds can be collected and planted the next year, and the plants will retain their properties. They are more adaptable but often inferior to hybrids in uniformity and yield (Welbaum, 2015).
• F1 Hybrids: Obtained by controlled crossing. They produce more uniform and vigorous seedlings, are generally more productive, disease-resistant, and stable in head shape and size. Important: Seeds from F1 hybrids are not worth collecting — they do not retain parental traits and must be bought anew each year (Welbaum, 2015; Startsev, 2021).

Gardener's Tip: If you are a beginner gardener, F1 hybrids are often easier to grow. They forgive many mistakes and provide guaranteed results. If you are a principled supporter of tradition and want to prepare your own seeds, choose proven domestic varieties.

7.7. By Cultivation Method: Transplanting and Direct Seeding

Although this is not related to varietal characteristics, this criterion directly affects your choice. Some varieties are universal and suitable for both methods. However:

• Early varieties are more often grown through transplants to speed up production and protect seedlings from spring frosts.
• Mid and late varieties can be sown directly into the ground (direct seeding). In this case, plants form a more powerful root system and tolerate drought better, although for northern regions with short summers, the transplant method remains more reliable (Karataev & Sovetkina, 1984; Kotov & Adritskaya, 2016).

Summarizing this chapter, here is a convenient summary table:

With this classification in mind, you can already estimate what you need. But how to avoid mistakes when faced with a multitude of names in the store? We will answer this question in the next, final chapter.

Step 1. Determine Your Main Goal

Before looking at maturity times and head size, ask yourself: "Why do I need cabbage?" Your answer will determine about 80% of your success.

Step 2. Assess Your Climate and Region

Cabbage is a cold-hardy crop, but different varieties react differently to temperature and day length.

• Northern Regions (Short Summer): Here, early maturity is a priority. Choose early and early-mid varieties that can form a full head before autumn frosts. Transplants are essential. Late varieties in short, cool summers often fail to mature and do not provide good storage (Nonnecke, 1989).
• Temperate Climate (Central Belt, Southern Siberia): There is a choice. You can successfully grow early, mid-season, and even late varieties (with correctly chosen planting dates). Classic scheme: early — for salads, mid-season — for fermentation, late — for storage.
• Southern Regions (Long, Hot Summer): Cabbage does not like intense heat. Under such conditions, preference is given to heat-tolerant varieties and hybrids that can set heads at high temperatures (e.g., 'Yuzhanka 31'). Also optimal are mid-season and early varieties that "escape" the peak of heat. Late varieties can be planted for harvest during winter months (Rubatzky & Yamaguchi, 1997).
• Regions with Unstable Climate: If spring and autumn often have sharp temperature fluctuations, choose varieties resistant to bolting and with good winter hardiness (Startsev, 2021).

Step 3. Consider Your Site's Specifics (Soil and Light)

Ideal cabbage is not only the right variety but also the right place.

• Soil: If you have heavy, cold clay soil, early varieties may "sit" and not start growing for a long time. For such soils, it is better to choose late varieties with a more powerful root system or plant cabbage on raised beds. The best soil is loam.
• Acidity: Don't forget about pH! At pH below 6.0, you risk getting cabbage infected with clubroot. If you have acidic soil, choosing a variety won't help — liming is essential. Some late varieties are more resistant to clubroot (e.g., 'Losinoostrovskaya 8'), but this is not a panacea (Kasynkina & Kudin, 2018).
• Light: Plant cabbage only in full sun. If your site is partially shaded, opt for less light-demanding mid-season varieties.

Step 4. Choosing Between a Variety and an F1 Hybrid

This is a classic dilemma for every gardener.

Variety (Open-Pollinated):

• Pros: You can save seeds; it is more "vigorous" and adaptable to local conditions. Many time-tested varieties ('Slava') remain unsurpassed in taste (Startsev, 2021).
• Cons: Lower yield, less uniform plants, often less resistant to diseases.
• Recommendation: For saving seeds and for the "soul."

F1 Hybrid:

• Pros: Maximum yield, exceptional uniformity of heads, high disease resistance, often excellent storage ability (Welbaum, 2015).
• Cons: Cannot save seeds, more expensive.
• Recommendation: For commercial production, for guaranteed yields, and for beginner gardeners.

Tip: Combine! Start the season with a couple of hybrids for guaranteed yield, and plant one favorite variety "for the soul" and for saving seeds.

Step 5. Pay Attention to Details (Study the Description)

When choosing a specific variety, pay attention to such nuances in the description:

• Disease Resistance: Especially to Fusarium wilt ('yellows') and clubroot. If indicated, take it confidently.
• Crack Resistance: Important for late varieties that may "stay too long" in the garden.
• Taste Qualities: Often given on a score scale (from 4 to 5). Pay attention to this.

Summary Selection Table

I hope this simple, step-by-step guide helps you navigate the vast assortment of seeds and choose exactly the cabbage that will bring maximum benefit and pleasure to your garden. In the following articles of our series, we will detail every aspect of cultivation techniques, from seed preparation to harvest. Good luck!