Planting Tomatoes with Deep Burial: Why and How to Do It Right

Increased Root System Volume

When the buried part of the stem produces additional roots, the overall absorptive surface area of the root system significantly increases. The plant gains access to more water and nutrients from the soil. This is particularly important for tomatoes, which are known for their high nutrient uptake (Balashev & Zeman, 1981). Studies show that plants grown from transplants develop relatively shallow root systems (up to 40-45 cm), so the formation of extra roots helps compensate for this limitation (Balashev & Zeman, 1981).

Enhanced Drought Tolerance

A well-developed root system can extract moisture from a larger soil volume. During dry summers or with irregular watering, this becomes a critical factor for plant survival and productivity. Burial increases the root zone, making the plant more resilient to short-term drought (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

Improved Plant Nutrition

More roots mean better access to mineral nutrients. Tomatoes are particularly demanding of potassium and calcium, as well as nitrogen and phosphorus during specific growth stages (Jones, 2008). The additional root system helps the plant utilize both applied fertilizers and the soil's natural fertility more effectively.

Better Anchorage for Tall Plants

A robust root system better anchors tall (indeterminate) and heavily fruiting bushes, reducing the risk of falling over under the weight of the crop, especially during strong winds or after heavy rains. This is crucial for trellis systems and staking (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

Important Limitation

Most other vegetable crops (pepper, eggplant, cabbage, cucumber) do not possess this ability. Burying the stem for them is not only useless but also harmful — it can cause rotting and plant death. This technique is exclusively for tomatoes (and, to a lesser extent, potatoes).

When Burial is Not Mandatory

It is crucial to understand: burial is not a mandatory rule, but a tool. If you have high-quality, stocky seedlings with short internodes, planted in warm, loose soil at the optimal time, additional burial is not required. The plant will develop a sufficient root system on its own.

Burial becomes justified in the following situations:

• The seedlings have overgrown (become leggy).
• The plant has a long, thin stem.
• You want to strengthen the root system to improve drought tolerance.
• You are planting tomatoes in a region with hot, dry summers.
• The plant struggles to stay upright.

Table: When to Bury Tomatoes and When Not To

Key Principle

Burial works as a compensatory technique when a plant has become leggy and needs "saving." If the seedlings are healthy and well-proportioned, it is better to plant them at the same depth they were growing in the pot, or slightly deeper (by 2-3 cm) as a precaution. Forcing burial on quality seedlings is biologically pointless and can only delay their development.

How to Assess Seedling Readiness for Burial?

Take the plant in your hands and inspect it:

• Stem — firm, without dark spots, cracks, or signs of rot.
• Internodes — if the distance between nodes exceeds 3-4 cm, the seedlings are considered leggy.
• Leaves — the lower ones (cotyledon and 1-2 true leaves) should already be removed, and their attachment points should be dry and callused.

Only when these conditions are met can you plan for burial.

What Happens if You Bury When You Shouldn't?

Even in tomatoes, capable of forming adventitious roots, excessive burial under unfavorable conditions leads to:

• Growth retardation — the plant spends energy on healing and forming new roots instead of on vegetation (Jones, 2008).
• Stem rots — if the stem is damaged or soil pathogens are present (Fusarium, Rhizoctonia), the buried section becomes an entry point for infection (Swiader et al., 1992).
• Uneven development — the top part of the plant may "outgrow" while roots lag behind, creating an imbalance in nutrition.

When This Method is Suitable

Vertical burial is chosen in the following cases:

• Seedlings are moderately overgrown (5-10 cm beyond the norm), and the stem remains straight and relatively firm.
• The root ball is well-formed and does not break apart during transplanting.
• The soil on the site is loose, well-aerated, and not prone to waterlogging.
• Planting is done in sufficiently warm soil (temperature at 10 cm depth not below +16°C).

This method is particularly popular when planting seedlings grown in cassettes or peat pots, where the root system is compact and undamaged (Swiader et al., 1992; Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

Planting Scheme

1. Hole Preparation. Dig a hole with a depth equal to the height of the root ball plus the planned stem burial depth. For example, if the ball is 8 cm high and you want to bury the stem 10 cm, the total hole depth should be about 18-20 cm. The hole width should be slightly larger than the diameter of the root ball.

2. Placing the Plant. Place the seedling vertically into the hole, lowering the root ball to the bottom. The buried part of the stem will be within the hole.

3. Backfilling. Fill the hole with soil, carefully firming it around the root ball and stem. It is important that the soil makes good contact with the stem — without air pockets.

4. Watering. Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets (Jones, 2008).

Important: During vertical planting, the upper part of the plant must remain strictly vertical. Do not allow it to tilt, so the stem doesn't bend.

Advantages of Vertical Burial

Disadvantages of Vertical Burial

How Deep is Safe for Vertical Burial

A safe depth for vertical burial depends on seedling condition and soil type:

• For stocky but slightly leggy seedlings — bury 3-5 cm below the root collar.
• For moderately overgrown seedlings (height 25-35 cm) — you can bury the stem 8-12 cm, but no more, if the soil is light and well-warmed.
• Maximum recommended depth for vertical planting — 15 cm (Jones, 2008). Anything deeper is risky, especially on heavy and wet soils.

Remember: The deeper you plant, the more important soil quality becomes — it must be loose, warm, and well-drained.

Practical Tip

If you choose the vertical method, make the hole slightly wider than necessary and fill it with a mix of garden soil and humus or compost (1:1). This improves aeration and nutrition around the buried part of the stem. After backfilling, lightly firm the hole, but do not compact it heavily — the soil around the stem should remain loose.

When Horizontal Planting is Better than Vertical

How to Correctly Place the Plant in a Trench: Step-by-Step Instructions

We'll cover stem preparation (removing lower leaves and drying wounds) in detail in the next part, but a reminder: all leaves that will end up underground must be removed in advance.

Step 1. Trench Preparation. Dig a trench 5-7 cm deep and as long as the part of the stem you plan to cover with soil. This is usually 20-40 cm. Make the trench slightly sloped — deeper at the root ball end and shallower towards the tip.

Step 2. Placing the Root Ball. Place the root ball in the deeper end of the trench at an angle, so the roots are directed downwards and sideways.

Step 3. Laying the Stem. Carefully lay the remaining part of the stem horizontally (or with a slight upward slope) along the trench. The stem should lie freely, without kinks or twisting.

Step 4. Guiding the Tip. Raise the tip of the stem with 3-4 well-developed leaves and guide it vertically upwards. You can make a small hole (or even a vertical well) at the end of the trench for this purpose. The tip should be 5-10 cm above the soil surface.

Step 5. Backfilling. Fill the trench with loose soil, leaving the tip exposed. Lightly firm the soil around the stem, but do not compact it heavily — the stem needs to "breathe." It is important that no air pockets remain, but excessive compaction is also not allowed.

Step 6. Staking. Immediately tie the guided tip to a stake or trellis. The stem lying in the ground cannot hold the plant upright, so staking is mandatory (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

Step 7. Watering. Water the planting thoroughly to settle the soil and make good contact with the stem. Watering also stimulates the formation of adventitious roots (Jones, 2008).

Important: The tip (growing point) and all remaining above-ground leaves must be strictly above the soil surface. Do not cover them with soil — this will cause them to rot and kill the plant.

How to Bring the Tip Out: A Practical Nuance

If the stem is very long, you don't have to bring the tip out vertically right at the end of the trench. You can gradually raise it, laying the stem in an arc. Some gardeners do this: dig the trench, lay the stem, then cover it with soil, leaving the end with leaves on the surface, which is then tied to a vertical support. After a few days, when the stem adapts to its new position, you can add more soil to strengthen it.

Advantages of Horizontal Planting

Disadvantages of Horizontal Planting

Which Method to Choose: Vertical or Horizontal?

Make your choice based on the condition of the seedlings:

• Seedlings up to 25-30 cm tall, straight stem → vertical burial (Part 3) will be optimal and less stressful.
• Seedlings 30 cm or taller, thin or curved stem → confidently choose the horizontal method.
• If you are unsure — you can use a compromise: place the stem at a 30-45° angle, burying it midway. This provides some benefit without fully restructuring the plant.

The Main Rule

You can only bury a stem where all wounds from removed leaves have completely dried and callused.

Fresh cuts are open doors for soil pathogens (causing Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, bacterial rots). Once in moist soil, they almost certainly lead to stem rot (Jones, 2008; Swiader et al., 1992). This is exactly why preparation must start in advance, not right before planting.

Step-by-Step Stem Preparation Algorithm

What NOT to Do During Preparation

Quick Preparation Checklist

• [ ] 3-4 days before planting, remove all leaves that will be underground.
• [ ] Also remove cotyledon leaves and lower true leaves (for better ventilation).
• [ ] Leave plants for 2-3 days in normal conditions to dry the wounds.
• [ ] A day before planting, check that all cuts are dry and callused.
• [ ] Inspect the stem for damage immediately before planting.
• [ ] If unsure about the health of the stem, dust the cuts with ash or treat with a biofungicide.

Why This Works: A Brief Physiological Excursion

Plants, like animals, have protective mechanisms. When tissues are damaged, a process called suberization begins — the formation of a cork layer (periderm) that isolates the wound surface from the external environment. This process takes 1-3 days depending on temperature and humidity. If a fresh wound is placed in moist soil, the protective sealing process is disrupted, and pathogens (fungi and bacteria) gain direct access to living stem tissues, causing rot (Jones, 2008).

This is precisely why time is your greatest ally when preparing the stem for burial.

General Rule

The maximum burial depth for a tomato should not exceed 1/3 of the plant's height for vertical planting. For horizontal planting, the guideline is the length of stem you can lay in the surface layer (no deeper than 7-10 cm).

This rule is based on the fact that adventitious roots actively form in the well-aerated, warm soil layer. The deeper you place the stem, the less oxygen and heat it receives, and consequently, the slower root formation proceeds (Jones, 2008; Swiader et al., 1992).

Recommended Burial Depth Table

Why Excessive Burial is Harmful

Even for tomatoes, capable of forming adventitious roots, there is a physiological limit:

1. Oxygen deficiency. At depths greater than 15-20 cm, soil oxygen content drops sharply, especially in heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils. Roots and stems need to respire, and without oxygen, tissues begin to die, creating conditions for anaerobic bacteria and fungi (Swiader et al., 1992).

2. Low temperature. Soil warms from top to bottom. At 15-20 cm depth, the temperature can be 3-5°C lower than in the surface layer. Below +15°C, the formation of adventitious roots practically stops, and the risk of rot increases (Jones, 2008).

3. Risk of stem rots. If the stem is in a zone with poor aeration and low temperature, even small wounds (from removed leaves) become infection foci. Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, bacterial rot are typical companions of too-deep planting (Swiader et al., 1992).

4. Growth retardation. The plant spends energy maintaining the viability of the buried part under unfavorable conditions, instead of directing resources to developing the top and root system. As a result, growth can be severely stunted for the first 2-3 weeks after planting.

Accounting for Soil Type and Temperature

The same depth figures don't work for all soils. Make adjustments:

Practical "Eyeball" Guide

If you can't measure soil temperature, use visual cues:

• The soil should crumble in your hands, not stick together in a clump.
• At 10-12 cm depth, it should feel noticeably warm (your hand doesn't feel cold).
• There should be no standing water in the bed after rain or watering.

If these conditions aren't met, even the recommended depths should be reduced by 2-3 cm, or burial should be abandoned altogether.

Remember the Main Point

Burial depth is not a goal, but a tool. The shallower the depth at which you achieve the desired effect (correcting legginess, stimulating roots), the safer it is for the plant. Always choose the minimum necessary depth, not the maximum possible.

1. Soil Temperature Below Optimal

• Sign: At 10 cm depth, the soil feels cold to the touch (below +15°C).
• Why it's harmful: The formation of adventitious roots is active only at soil temperatures not lower than +16…+18°C (Swiader et al., 1992). In cold soil:
• Root formation processes practically stop.
• The buried part of the stem remains under stress for a long time, weakening the plant.
• Beneficial microflora activity decreases, while pathogenic fungi (causing rots) become more active (Jones, 2008).
• What to do instead: Plant vertically, without burying (at the same depth as in the pot), and use temporary covers (plastic film, agrofabric) to warm the soil. If the seedlings are overgrown but the soil is cold, it's better to hold them in a cool place and plant later when the ground warms up (Swiader et al., 1992).

2. Heavy, Waterlogged, or Poorly Drained Soil

• Sign: Clayey, slumping soil that stays wet for a long time after rain; water standing in holes; crust forming on the surface.
• Why it's harmful: Such soil has very little oxygen. The buried stem finds itself in an anaerobic environment where root and stem rots develop quickly (Jones, 2008). Even a healthy stem with dried wounds can rot within a few days due to lack of air.
• What to do instead:
• Avoid burial altogether.
• Plant tomatoes on raised beds or ridges — this improves drainage and aeration (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).
• If the seedlings are overgrown and there's no other option, use the horizontal method, but with minimal trench depth (3-5 cm) and only in the very top, drying layer of soil.

3. Fresh Stem Damage (Wounds, Cracks, Cuts)

• Sign: Fresh cuts on the stem (leaves removed less than 24-48 hours before planting), mechanical scratches, cracks, dents, or dark spots (signs of disease).
• Why it's harmful: Any area with broken protective tissues, once in the soil, becomes an entry point for pathogens (Swiader et al., 1992). If the wound hasn't had time to dry and callus (form a protective layer), rot develops almost certainly (Jones, 2008).
• What to do instead:
• If there is damage, but the seedlings need planting, then do not bury the stem — plant vertically at the pot's soil level.
• Give the plant time (3-5 days) to heal in drier conditions before planting.
• Never remove leaves immediately before planting if you plan on burying (see Part 5).

4. High Water Table

• Sign: Water stands in shallow wells; the soil is constantly moist even without rain; there are swampy spots on the plot.
• Why it's harmful: With a high water table, capillary moisture rises close to the surface. The buried stem may end up in a zone of constant waterlogging where there is practically no oxygen. This leads to irreversible root inhibition and the development of rots (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).
• What to do instead: Plant tomatoes without burial on high ridges (30-40 cm high) or mounds so the root system is above the capillary water level (Jones, 2008).

5. Planting in Unwarmed, Early Spring Soil

• Sign: Early season, the soil has just thawed but is still "wet" and cold; night frosts are still possible.
• Why it's harmful: The combination of cold soil and high humidity is ideal for stem pathogen attack. Furthermore, in such conditions, the plant stays dormant for a long time, showing neither top growth nor new roots. As a result, it weakens and may die at the first stress factor (Swiader et al., 1992).
• What to do instead:
• Postpone planting until later when the soil warms to +16°C and above.
• If you can't wait, plant without burial (at the pot soil level) and use temporary covers to retain heat (plastic film, agrofabric). Delay burial until the soil is consistently warm.

6. Burying "Just in Case" Healthy, Stocky Seedlings

• Sign: Seedlings have a thick stem, short internodes, healthy dark green leaves, height not exceeding 20-22 cm.
• Why it's harmful: Such a plant already has a balanced root system matching its top growth. Forced burial forces the plant to rebuild its root system from scratch, delaying growth by 7-10 days. Resource use efficiency decreases, and the potential yield increase is minimal or non-existent (Jones, 2008).
• What to do instead: Plant at the same depth as in the pot, or slightly deeper (by 2-3 cm) as a precaution, but no more. The plant will handle its further development on its own.

How to Quickly Assess if You Can Bury on Your Plot

Before making a decision, ask yourself five simple questions:

1. Is the soil warm enough? (Feel it with your hand at 10-12 cm depth — it should be noticeably warm.)

2. Is the soil loose and well-draining? (Dig a test hole — is water standing in it?)

3. Are there fresh wounds or signs of disease on the stem?

4. Isn't the water table too high?

5. Does the seedling really need burial? (Is it overgrown? Curved? Or do you just want to "strengthen roots"?)

If you answered "yes" (in a negative sense) to at least one of these questions, then it's better to avoid burial or limit its depth as much as possible. The nature of the tomato does not tolerate force — it's better to slightly under-bury than over-bury and kill the plant.

Summarizing Principle

Burial is a forced measure for problematic seedlings and unfavorable conditions, not an annual procedure for all tomatoes. If the plant is strong and the soil is warm and loose — let it grow as nature intended. Don't fix what isn't broken.

In the next part, we will consolidate all the knowledge into a single algorithm for the most difficult case — planting overgrown seedlings, where burial is truly needed and the future harvest depends on the correctness of the actions.

Step 0. Assess How Severely Overgrown the Seedlings Are

Before you start planting, objectively assess the condition of the plants. This will determine the choice of method.

(Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018; Jones, 2008)

Step 1. Remove Lower Leaves (2-3 Days Before Planting)

This is the most important step that cannot be skipped.

• Remove all leaves that will be below the soil level after planting (including cotyledons and 1-2 lower true leaves).
• Use sharp pruners, cut the leaf at its base, leaving a small stub.
• Also remove suckers and flower clusters from the lower part of the stem (Swiader et al., 1992).

Important: Do this 2-3 days before planting so the wounds have time to dry and callus (Jones, 2008).

After leaf removal, the plant may wilt slightly — this is normal. Resume watering and leave it alone until planting.

Step 2. Choose a Planting Method

Based on the assessment of the degree of overgrowth, choose one of three options:

For most cases of overgrown seedlings, the horizontal method is the most reliable. It allows you to maximize the use of stem length without burying it to a dangerous depth (Swiader et al., 1992).

Step 3. Prepare the Planting Site

• For vertical planting, dig a hole with a depth equal to the height of the root ball plus the planned burial depth (not exceeding 15 cm in total). Hole width slightly larger than the ball.
• For horizontal planting, dig a trench 5-7 cm deep and long enough for the free placement of the stem. Make the trench slightly sloped — deeper at the root ball end and shallower towards the tip.

At the bottom of the hole or trench, you can add:

• A handful of humus or compost (for nutrition).
• A handful of wood ash (to improve structure and protect against pathogens) (Jones, 2008).

Step 4. Lay or Bury the Stem

For horizontal planting:

1. Place the root ball in the deeper end of the trench at a 45° angle, roots pointing down.

2. Carefully lay the stem along the trench, straightening it to avoid kinks.

3. Guide the remaining tip with 3-4 leaves vertically upwards, making a small hole at the end of the trench. The tip should be strictly above the soil surface.

4. Fill the trench with loose soil, lightly firming it around the stem. The soil should make good contact but not be compacted.

For vertical planting:

1. Lower the root ball to the bottom of the hole.

2. Fill the hole with soil up to a level that is 5-12 cm above the root collar (depending on the degree of overgrowth).

3. Lightly firm the soil around the stem.

General rule for both methods: At least 3-4 well-developed leaves must remain above the surface. The growing point (tip) must always be outside (Swiader et al., 1992).

Step 5. Tie the Tip to a Support

This is a mandatory step, especially with horizontal planting, where the stem cannot hold the plant upright on its own.

• Place a stake next to the tip (20-30 cm deep in the ground).
• Use a soft tie (cloth strip, twine) to loosely but securely attach the stem to the stake, without constricting it.
• If using a trellis, direct the tip towards it and secure.

Staking is needed immediately after backfilling, as the plant is especially unstable in the first few days (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

Step 6. First Watering

Water generously but carefully.

• Immediately after backfilling, water each plant with warm, settled water (temperature not below +18…+20°C).
• Watering rate: 3-5 liters per plant to settle the soil well and ensure good contact with the stem and roots.
• Water in several stages, allowing it to soak in, to avoid washing away the soil.

Important: Cold water (from a well or borehole) can cause temperature shock and slow root formation. Let the water warm up in the sun (Jones, 2008).

Repeat watering (if no rain) after 3-5 days, as the top layer dries.

Step 7. Further Care in the First Month

First 10-14 days: Don't expect rapid top growth. The plant is building its roots now. This is normal. Your task:

• Water regularly, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged.
• Lightly loosen the surface after watering to prevent crusting.
• Do not fertilize with nitrogen in the first 2 weeks — this stimulates leaf growth at the expense of roots (Jones, 2008). A weak solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (e.g., superphosphate + potassium salt) can be given 10-12 days after planting.
• Stake growing shoots as needed.

After 15-20 days: Visible signs of growth should appear — new leaves, increased height. This signals that the root system is working at full capacity. From this point, you can start a regular fertilization program (focusing on potassium and phosphorus for flowering and fruiting) (Swiader et al., 1992).

What Changes in Plant Nutrition After Such Planting

Checklist for Overgrown Seedlings (Quick Reference)

• [ ] 2-3 days before planting, removed all leaves from the lower part of the stem.
• [ ] Wounds have dried — do not bury fresh cuts.
• [ ] Chosen planting method: horizontal for severely overgrown, vertical for moderate.
• [ ] Dug a trench (or hole) considering the stem length.
• [ ] Laid the stem, leaving the tip with 3-4 leaves above ground.
• [ ] Immediately tied the tip to a stake.
• [ ] Watered with warm water (generously, but without waterlogging).
• [ ] First 2 weeks — only moderate watering, no nitrogen fertilization.
• [ ] Awaiting new leaves and the start of active growth (usually after 15-20 days).

First Week: Adaptation and Healing Period

Immediately after planting, the plant experiences transplant shock. This is a normal physiological reaction to changes in conditions, root damage, and altered stem position (Jones, 2008).

What happens inside:

• Wound healing. Even if you prepared the stem beforehand, micro-traumas inevitably occur during planting. The plant activates protective mechanisms: at the point of stem contact with soil, callus formation begins — a special tissue that seals damaged areas and serves as the basis for future roots (Jones, 2008).
• Root system regeneration. Some of the fine absorbing roots damaged during transplant die off. The plant temporarily reduces its "appetite" — decreasing water and nutrient uptake.
• Resource redistribution. All plastic substances (sugars, amino acids, hormones) are directed not to top growth, but to healing and initiating adventitious root primordia on the buried part of the stem (Balashev & Zeman, 1981).

What the gardener sees:

• The plant may wilt slightly, especially during hot hours.
• Growth of new leaves is barely noticeable.
• Lower leaves may yellow and drop — this is normal, the plant is shedding ballast.

What to do: Do not disturb the plant, water moderately, protect from intense sun (light shading for the first 3-5 days helps reduce stress). Do not fertilize!

Second Week: Adventitious Root Initiation

If the soil is warm (+18…+22°C) and sufficiently moist, the first rudiments of new roots begin to appear on the buried part of the stem (Jones, 2008; Swiader et al., 1992).

What happens inside:

• On the stem surface, in places in contact with moist soil, "dormant" cambium cells awaken. They begin to actively divide, forming root primordia — tiny white dots.
• From these primordia, within a few days, thin white roots 2-5 mm long grow.
• Simultaneously, the damaged root system in the root ball recovers — old roots produce new side branches.

What the gardener sees:

• Top growth is still slow, but leaves stop wilting.
• Upon careful inspection (if you gently move soil away from the stem base), you can notice white dots or tiny roots on the buried part.
• Leaf color becomes richer, with a slight sheen — a sign of turgor recovery (Jones, 2008).

What to do: Continue moderate watering. If the weather is hot, you can do light soil loosening around the plant (but not deeply, to avoid damaging young roots). At the beginning of the second week, a weak phosphorus fertilizer solution (e.g., superphosphate) is permissible — phosphorus stimulates root formation (Swiader et al., 1992).

Third-Fourth Week: Active Development

By the end of the third week, a properly planted plant develops a powerful additional root system that begins to work actively.

What happens inside:

• Adventitious roots reach 5-10 cm in length and begin actively absorbing water and nutrients.
• The total absorptive surface area of the root system becomes significantly larger than that of an unburied plant (Swiader et al., 1992).
• The plant "switches" mode: it can now afford active top growth, as the roots provide sufficient nutrition.
• Active synthesis of hormones (cytokinins) begins in the new roots, stimulating the growth of side shoots and the setting of flower clusters (Jones, 2008).

What the gardener sees:

• New leaves appear — growth accelerates.
• The stem becomes thicker and more powerful.
• New flower clusters set.
• The plant looks healthy, deep green.

What to do: From this point, you can switch to a regular care routine: regular watering, fertilizing (focusing on potassium and phosphorus), shaping the bush, staking as it grows (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

How Plant Nutrition Changes After Burial

This process can be represented in a table for clarity:

(Jones, 2008; Balashev & Zeman, 1981)

What Should Raise Concern: Signs of Problems

Things don't always go smoothly. Here's what to watch for in the first weeks after planting:

(Swiader et al., 1992; Jones, 2008)

The Main Takeaway

Silence in the first two weeks is not a problem, but a stage. The plant is not "sitting still" — it is working on creating a new root system. Your job is to provide it with comfortable conditions for this: warmth, moderate moisture, and peace. Active top growth will begin when the underground work is completed.

By the end of the first month after buried planting, your plant will have a root system 1.5–2 times more powerful than a tomato planted in the usual way. This is the foundation for drought resistance, good nutrition, and ultimately, a bountiful harvest (Balashev & Zeman, 1981; Jones, 2008).

In the final part of the article, we will cover the most common mistakes made when planting with burial — so you can avoid them and grow strong, healthy plants.

Mistake 1. Removing Leaves Immediately Before (or on the Day of) Planting

The mistake: Cutting leaves from the lower stem just minutes before lowering the plant into the ground. Fresh, moist cuts immediately contact the soil.

Why it's harmful: Fresh wounds are open doors for soil pathogens (causing Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, bacterial rots). Once in a moist environment, they almost certainly cause stem rot within the first few days (Jones, 2008; Swiader et al., 1992). Even if rot doesn't appear immediately, the plant will be weakened, and the disease may flare up later, during the fruiting phase.

How to do it right: Remove all leaves that will be underground 2-3 days before planting. During this time, the cut sites will dry, callus, and become resistant to infection (Jones, 2008). This is the most important rule of the entire procedure.

Mistake 2. Planting Too Deep — "Just in Case"

The mistake: Burying the stem 15-20 cm or more, thinking that "the deeper, the more roots," or simply to hide the entire long stem.

Why it's harmful: At depths greater than 12-15 cm, oxygen content drops sharply, especially in heavy soils. The temperature is lower, aeration is worse. Instead of powerful roots, you get stem rot or severe growth inhibition (Jones, 2008; Swiader et al., 1992). The plant stays dormant for a long time, doesn't develop, and may die. Extra depth does not give a proportional increase in roots — on the contrary, root formation there slows down (Swiader et al., 1992).

How to do it right: Follow the table in Part 6. Choose the minimum necessary depth for the specific condition of the seedlings. For severely overgrown plants, use horizontal placement (depth 5-7 cm) rather than vertical burial.

Mistake 3. Planting in Cold or Waterlogged Soil with Burial

The mistake: Planting seedlings with burial early in the season when the soil is still cold (below +15°C), or in heavy, wet soil.

Why it's harmful: In cold soil, adventitious roots do not form (the process practically stops below +15…+16°C). The buried part of the stem finds itself in a "preserving" environment where pathogenic fungi actively multiply (Swiader et al., 1992). In waterlogged soil, oxygen deficiency is added to the cold — the stem suffocates and rots within a few days (Jones, 2008).

How to do it right: Wait until the soil warms to +16…+18°C at 10 cm depth. If you can't wait, plant without burial or at minimal depth (3-5 cm), using temporary covers for warming. On heavy soils, prefer horizontal placement in the top layer (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

Mistake 4. Severe Bending or Twisting of the Stem During Horizontal Planting

The mistake: When laying the stem in the trench, it is severely bent, coiled into a ring, or forced into a trench that is too short.

Why it's harmful: Bending causes mechanical damage to internal tissues (vascular bundles), disrupting the transport of water and nutrients (Jones, 2008). A fracture forms at the bend point, allowing infection to enter, and the stem may break and die. The plant loses connection between roots and tip (Swiader et al., 1992).

How to do it right: Dig a trench long enough (5-10 cm longer than the stem). Lay the stem smoothly, without sharp bends, like an arc. If the stem is very long, make the trench longer or use a gentler arc rather than bending it.

Mistake 5. Watering with Cold Water Immediately After Planting

The mistake: Using water straight from a well, borehole, or tap, with a temperature of +10…+12°C.

Why it's harmful: Cold water causes temperature shock. Roots (and the buried stem) absorb almost no water at low temperatures, and the cold worsens the transplant stress. This can delay root formation by several days and, in cold soils, provoke rot (Jones, 2008).

How to do it right: Use water warmed in the sun to air temperature (+20…+25°C). Fill a barrel or buckets with water in advance and let it warm up. Water abundantly, but with warm water.

Mistake 6. Heavy Compaction of Soil Around the Buried Stem

The mistake: After backfilling the trench or hole, the soil around the stem is heavily compacted by foot or hand to achieve good contact, but going too far.

Why it's harmful: Compacted soil has poor air permeability. The buried stem and young roots need oxygen. In dense, settled soil, root formation is slow, and the risk of anaerobic rots increases (Swiader et al., 1992). Too much pressure can also constrict the stem, damaging its vascular system (Jones, 2008).

How to do it right: Lightly press the soil with the palm to eliminate air pockets, but without excessive force. Watering will naturally settle the soil enough for good contact. For loose soils, you can add more soil after watering if it settles, but do not compact it.

Mistake 7. Ignoring Staking (Especially with Horizontal Planting)

The mistake: Thinking that a stem laid in the ground will eventually straighten itself out, and not staking the tip.

Why it's harmful: A stem laid in a trench has no support and cannot hold the tip upright. Branches and leaves lie on the ground. The growing point may be damaged, photosynthesis is reduced. The plant spends energy trying to stand up instead of growing. Young roots on the buried stem can break if the tip moves in the wind (Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

How to do it right: Immediately after backfilling, place a stake and gently tie the tip in an upright position. Staking is mandatory for all tomatoes with burial, especially with horizontal placement.

Mistake 8. Early Nitrogen Fertilization in the First 2 Weeks

The mistake: Giving nitrogen fertilizer (manure tea, urea, ammonium nitrate) immediately after planting, thinking it will speed up growth.

Why it's harmful: Nitrogen stimulates green mass growth (leaves and shoots) at the expense of root development. In the first weeks, the plant needs to direct resources to root formation and healing, not leaf production (Jones, 2008). With excess nitrogen, the plant stretches, becomes lanky, and less disease-resistant. This can negate the benefits of burial (Swiader et al., 1992).

How to do it right: Avoid any fertilization for the first 10-14 days after planting. The only thing permissible is a weak solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (e.g., superphosphate + potassium salt) after 10-12 days to stimulate roots. A full nitrogen fertilizer should be given no earlier than 3-4 weeks later, when the plant is actively growing (Jones, 2008).

Mistake 9. Choosing the Wrong Planting Method for the Soil Type

The mistake: Using vertical burial at 10-12 cm in heavy clay soil, and conversely, being afraid to bury even overgrown seedlings in light sandy soil, planting them shallowly.

Why it's harmful: In the first case (heavy soil), the stem rots due to lack of oxygen. In the second (sandy soil), the additional root system doesn't develop to the required volume because the stem is too close to the surface, drying out, and the plant doesn't get enough anchorage (Jones, 2008; Santos & Salamé-Donoso, 2018).

How to do it right: Consider the soil texture (Part 6). On heavy soils, use horizontal placement at minimum depth (3-5 cm) or plant without burial. On light sandy soils, you can apply vertical burial at 8-10 cm (as a limit), ensuring irrigation. The optimal choice for overgrown seedlings on any soil type is horizontal planting, as it works in the surface layer where aeration is always better.

Summary: How to Avoid 90% of Problems

1. Prepare the stem in advance — remove leaves 2-3 days before planting.

2. Measure soil temperature — do not bury in cold soil (below +16°C).

3. Choose the minimum required depth (use the table).

4. Prefer horizontal placement for severely overgrown seedlings on any soil.

5. Water only with warm water (warmed in the sun).

6. Stake immediately after planting.

7. Do not fertilize with nitrogen in the first 2 weeks — let the roots develop.

8. Monitor the stem base — at the first sign of softening or darkening, urgently uncover and dry it.

Concluding Words

Planting tomatoes with burial is a powerful agronomic technique that can be your greatest ally if you understand its biological essence and use it wisely. It is not mandatory for all cases, but in situations with overgrown seedlings, hot climates, or tall varieties, it is a reliable way to get a more powerful and productive plant.

Remember the main principle we've carried through the entire article: burial is a tool, not a mandatory rule. Apply it consciously, considering the condition of the seedlings, soil type, and weather. May your tomatoes reward you with a bountiful harvest!