Blackcurrant Propagation: Reliable Methods for Your Garden

Last updated: August 29, 2026

1. How Blackcurrant Is Propagated

Blackcurrant is one of the most rewarding berry crops for home propagation. Nature has endowed this plant with an amazing ability to regenerate from many different parts of the bush. It is important for the gardener to understand: all cultivated varieties of currant are propagated only vegetatively—that is, by parts of the mother plant. Seed propagation is not used for varieties because seedlings do not retain the valuable traits of the parent bush (Dankov, 2015).

In gardening practice, several proven methods have developed, each with its own strengths and limitations. Let us briefly review them.

Vegetative Propagation Methods for Blackcurrant

Cuttings—the most common and accessible method. It gives excellent results even for beginning gardeners. Three types of cuttings are used:

Hardwood cuttings (mature current‑year shoots, harvested in autumn or early spring)—the classic that works almost without fail;
Green cuttings (non‑lignified shoots, cut in June)—a more demanding but very effective method for valuable and rare varieties;
Combined cuttings (a cutting with a “heel” of two‑year‑old wood)—a simplified version of green cuttings for open ground.

Layering—a method in which branches are rooted without separating them from the mother bush. It is especially good for varieties that root poorly from cuttings and for regions with short summers (Altai, Siberia, the Urals, the Far East). Horizontal, vertical, and arcuate layering are distinguished (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Tarasov et al., 1981).

Division of the bush—the fastest way to obtain several ready‑to‑plant plants. It is used when transplanting an adult bush to a new location or for rejuvenating an old plantation.

Grafting—is rarely used, mainly for producing standard (tree‑like) forms or in breeding work. For the ordinary gardener, this method is more of theoretical interest.

Which method should you choose? It depends on your goals, the time you have, and the amount of planting material you wish to obtain. If you need 5–10 saplings for your own garden—go ahead with layering or division. If you are planning to establish a small plantation or renew the variety assortment—cuttings will be your main tool. And if you live in a region with a short summer where cuttings do not have time to mature and root well, consider layering—this method was specifically developed for such conditions (Tarasov et al., 1981).

In the following sections we will examine each method in detail, discuss the nuances, and warn you against typical mistakes. For now, remember the key point: success in propagation starts with choosing a healthy mother bush. Select plants without signs of disease or pest damage, with good annual growth and abundant fruiting. Such bushes will give strong and productive offspring.

2. Choosing a Propagation Method

There is no universal answer to “which method is best”—each is good under certain conditions. The choice depends on several factors: how many saplings you need, the characteristics of the variety, the region where you live, and how much time you are willing to devote to caring for young plants.

Key Selection Criteria

1. Quantity of planting material.

If you need 5–10 saplings for your own garden—consider layering or division. These methods give a limited but very high‑quality progeny that establish quickly and begin to bear fruit in the second or third year.

If you plan to establish a small plantation (20–50 bushes) or renew the assortment—your choice is hardwood cuttings: from one adult bush you can cut up to several dozen cuttings, and with proper agrotechnics the yield of standard saplings reaches 70–80 % (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Tarasov et al., 1981).

2. Variety‑specific traits.

Most modern blackcurrant varieties root well from hardwood cuttings. However, there are varieties (especially some forms of Siberian wild currant) whose cuttings produce weak root growth. For such varieties, horizontal layering is preferable—it guarantees strong saplings with a well‑developed root system (Tarasov et al., 1981). If you do not know how a particular variety behaves, ask the seller of the saplings or look up information in local nursery reference books.

3. Climatic conditions.

In regions with a short growing season (Altai Krai, the Urals, Siberia, the Far East), hardwood cuttings often do not have time by autumn to form a strong root system and mature for winter. Here gardeners have long used layering—they root directly on the mother bush, receiving nourishment from it, and by autumn yield ready, well‑developed saplings (Tarasov et al., 1981). In the middle belt and further south, all methods work successfully—the main thing is to provide timely watering and protection from weeds.

4. Time and labour resources.

Cuttings require more attention: the cuttings need to be prepared, properly stored, planted in a nursery bed, regularly watered, loosened the soil, and weeds controlled. This is painstaking work, but it pays off with a large number of saplings.

Layering is less labour‑intensive: it is enough to bend the branches, secure them, cover with soil, and maintain moisture—the plant does the rest.

Division gives an almost instantaneous result—you get large, already formed bushes that can be planted immediately in a permanent place. However, this method is limited in number of divisions and traumatises the mother plant more.

5. Condition of the mother bush.

If you have an old, low‑yielding bush that you are going to remove anyway—use division as a way to rejuvenate it and obtain several young plants. For a young healthy bush that you want to preserve, it is better to use cuttings or layering—they do not weaken the main plant.

Brief Recommendations

Your task	Recommended method
Obtain 3–5 saplings for your own garden, variety roots well	Horizontal layering – simple and reliable
Obtain 10–50 saplings for replanting	Hardwood cuttings – maximum output
Variety is fussy, roots poorly	Vertical or horizontal layering
You live in Siberia or the Far East, summer is short	Layering – a proven method under such conditions
Need to urgently transplant an old bush and propagate at the same time	Division – gives large, ready‑to‑plant plants
Want to obtain saplings of a rare variety in the maximum quantity	Green cuttings (in a mist greenhouse) – but requires special conditions

For the beginner gardener, the safest path is horizontal layering: they forgive small mistakes and almost always give a result. Once you have mastered them, you can move on to cuttings—this is a fascinating and rewarding method that allows you to build your own collection of the best varieties over several years.

3. Cuttings

Cuttings are the most versatile and productive method of blackcurrant propagation. With proper care, you can obtain dozens from one mother bush, and hundreds with mass preparation. Depending on the degree of shoot maturity, three types of cuttings are distinguished: hardwood, green, and combined. Each has its own technology, timing, and care requirements.

3.1. Hardwood Cuttings

This is the simplest, most reliable, and widely used method. It is usually the one with which gardeners begin when learning to propagate currants on their own. It gives good results provided the soil is sufficiently moist and is suitable for most varieties (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Tarasov et al., 1981).

Preparation of Cuttings

For cuttings, choose mature annual shoots (basal, zero‑order shoots) with well‑developed buds. The optimal shoot thickness is at least 6 mm, and the length of the cutting should be 15–20 cm. It is best to use the lower and middle parts of the shoot—they produce stronger roots (Dankov, 2015; Tarasov et al., 1981).

Preparation is carried out during the dormant period of the plant:

Autumn preparation (late September – early October, after leaf fall) is the most preferable. Cuttings are cut immediately before planting, which eliminates storage problems.
Spring preparation – if you did not manage in autumn, shoots are harvested early in spring before bud break. In this case, cuttings prepared in autumn must be properly stored until spring planting.

Storage of cuttings until spring. If you prepared cuttings in autumn but plan to plant in spring, they are stored:

in a snow pile (under a thick layer of snow);
in a trench in the ground (in a place protected from flooding);
in a cellar or basement in damp sand at a temperature around 0…+2 °C (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Important: cuttings must not dry out nor rot. The optimal moisture of the storage substrate is moderate, without waterlogging.

Cutting Rules

The top cut is made 1–1.5 cm above a bud, the bottom cut directly below a bud or anywhere between nodes (Tarasov et al., 1981).
All cuttings should be of equal length—this facilitates planting and subsequent care.
Before planting, the lower part of the cutting can be treated with rooting stimulants (e.g., heteroauxin or root‑forming powder)—this accelerates rooting, although for currants this procedure is not mandatory, but is recommended for fussy varieties.

Planting Cuttings

Timing. Two periods are optimal:

Autumn planting (late September – mid‑October) – cuttings have time before frost to produce small roots and overwinter well.
Early spring planting (as soon as the soil thaws) – also gives excellent results. Autumn cuttings stored in a trench are planted at the earliest possible time (Tarasov et al., 1981; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Site preparation (nursery bed). The bed for cuttings is prepared on fertile, loose soil, cleared of weeds. Light loams or sandy loams with a neutral or slightly acid reaction are best. The soil is dug to a depth of 20–25 cm, adding humus or compost (a bucket per 1 m²).

Planting scheme. Cuttings are planted:

in rows with a spacing of 70 cm between rows and 10 cm between cuttings in the row;
or in strip (multi‑row) planting: distance between strips 80 cm, between lines in the strip 20 cm, and in the row 10 cm. At this density, 100–250 thousand cuttings are planted per hectare (Tarasov et al., 1981).

For the home garden, it is more convenient to make beds 1–1.2 m wide with row spacings of 40–50 cm. Cuttings are placed in furrows 8–10 cm deep.

Planting technique. Cuttings are planted at an angle of 45°, burying them so that 1–2 buds remain above the surface (Kurennoi et al., 1985). This technique promotes better warming of the soil in the rooting zone and creates a favourable air‑water regime. If the soil is heavy, it is loosened before planting, and after planting the soil around the cuttings is pressed firmly.

Watering and mulching. Immediately after planting, cuttings are watered abundantly. Then the bed is mulched with humus, peat, or compost in a layer of 3–4 cm—this protects the soil from drying out and suppresses weed growth (Tarasov et al., 1981; Dankov, 2015). In dry weather, watering is repeated regularly, keeping the soil moisture not lower than 70–80 % of the full water‑holding capacity.

Care of Cuttings in the Nursery Bed

During the growing season, the following are carried out:

Regular watering – especially immediately after planting and in dry weather.
Loosening the soil in rows and between rows – after each watering and rain, to prevent crust formation.
Weed control – they are removed manually or with light hoeing.
Preventive treatments against pests and diseases (if necessary, following local recommendations).

By autumn, the cuttings grow into annual saplings with a single stem 30–40 cm tall and a fibrous root system. With two‑year cultivation, in the second year the above‑ground part is cut at a height of 6–8 cm in spring—this stimulates branching and the formation of a more powerful bush (Tarasov et al., 1981). Such saplings are considered first‑grade.

Standards for Quality Saplings

For the first grade, a sapling must have:

at least two shoots longer than 40 cm;
at least five skeletal roots at least 20 cm long.

For the second grade, the following are acceptable:

shoots longer than 30 cm;
at least three roots at least 15 cm long (Tarasov et al., 1981).

3.2. Green Cuttings

Green cuttings are a more complex but very effective method that allows you to obtain a large number of saplings from valuable and rare varieties. Its main advantage is the high rate of propagation and the ability to use shoots even of those varieties that root poorly in the lignified state.

Timing of Harvest

Cuttings are cut during the semi‑lignification period – when the current year’s shoots have already grown strong but still retain flexibility. For the middle belt (Leningrad region and similar areas), this is the second half of June (Dankov, 2015). In more southern regions, the dates shift to the first half of June, in northern ones to early July.

Cutting Technique

Cut green shoots 7–15 cm long with 2–3 internodes.
The lower cut is made below a node (below a bud), the upper cut 1–1.5 cm above the upper bud.
Lower leaves are removed completely or only the top 1–2 leaves are left to reduce evaporation.

Rooting

Green cuttings require the creation of artificial mist – high air humidity (close to 100 %) combined with good aeration of the root zone. They are usually planted in plastic greenhouses with a misting system, in a substrate of sand and peat (1:1) at a spacing of 7×4 cm, to a depth of 1.5–2 cm (Dankov, 2015).

Under these conditions, rooting occurs on the 10th–20th day. Rooted cuttings are left to overwinter in the rooting place (in the greenhouse or cold frame), and in spring they are planted in a nursery bed for growing on.

For the home garden, simplified options can be used:

Mini‑greenhouse from a plastic bottle or cut transparent container for each cutting.
Cold frame with spraying with water from a sprayer several times a day (morning, afternoon, and evening). Success depends on the frequency of spraying—the more regular, the higher the rooting percentage.

3.3. Combined Cuttings

Combined cuttings are the “golden mean” between green and hardwood methods. They are simpler than green cuttings and do not require misting equipment, but for some varieties they give better results than ordinary hardwood cuttings.

What They Are

A combined cutting is a young green shoot (lateral branch) 10–15 cm long cut together with a part of last year’s (two‑year‑old) wood 3–4 cm long – the so‑called “heel”. Thus, the cutting is two‑tiered: below is mature wood with a reserve of nutrients, above is a young actively growing shoot.

Harvesting

Two‑year‑old branches are cut when their lateral branches (current‑year growth) have reached 10–15 cm (Dankov, 2015). Then each green shoot is separated with a part of the two‑year‑old stem.

Planting

Such cuttings can be planted:

in a greenhouse – under the same conditions as green cuttings, but rooting is more reliable;
in open ground – with regular watering (Dankov, 2015).

Planting depth – so that the heel is completely buried and the green part remains above the surface. Care is the same as for green cuttings – maintaining moisture and shading from direct sunlight.

Advantages

Higher survival rate compared to green cuttings.
Simplified conditions – you do not necessarily need a misting system.
Possibility of planting directly in open ground on a well‑watered bed.

This method is especially convenient for amateur gardeners who do not have a greenhouse with automatic mist but wish to propagate a valuable variety in greater numbers than layering allows.

General Recommendations for All Types of Cuttings

Use only healthy mother material – without signs of viral diseases, infestation by bud mite, or powdery mildew.
Observe the timing – being late or too early drastically reduces rooting.
Provide regular watering – lack of moisture is fatal for young roots. In the nursery bed, keep soil moisture at 70–80 %.
Remove weeds in time – they shade the cuttings, take away moisture and nutrients.
In autumn, inspect – remove weak, diseased, and poorly rooted specimens.

4. Layering

Propagation by layering is one of the most reliable and least labour‑intensive ways to obtain blackcurrant saplings. Its main advantage: rooting takes place on the mother bush without separating the branch from the plant. The layer receives nutrition and moisture from the adult bush, so even with imperfect care it produces strong, well‑developed saplings. This method is especially valuable for regions with a short growing season (Altai Krai, the Urals, Siberia, the Far East), as well as for varieties that root poorly from cuttings (Tarasov et al., 1981; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Three main types of layering are distinguished: horizontal, vertical, and arcuate. All are based on the same principle – covering a shoot with soil to stimulate the formation of adventitious roots.

4.1. Horizontal Layering

This is the most popular and versatile method. It gives the largest number of saplings from one mother bush – up to 10–15 or more. Horizontal layering is good because almost all buds covered with soil produce vertical shoots, each of which forms its own root system (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Selection of Mother Bush and Preparation

For layering, use healthy, well‑developed bushes aged 3–5 years. A year before laying the layers, it is recommended to feed the bush heavily with organic matter and prune it, removing old, broken, and weak branches. In the row spacings, the soil is loosened, and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Timing and Procedure

The best time is early spring, before bud break, or autumn (late September – October). For spring establishment, choose 1–2‑year‑old strong branches (basal shoots) and bend them to the ground.

Technology:

1. Preparation of furrows. In the row spacing, opposite the chosen branch, dig a furrow 6–10 cm deep and as long as the shoot.

2. Laying the branch. Carefully bend the branch and lay it horizontally in the furrow (along the row or in the row spacing). It is important that the branch touches the bottom of the furrow along its entire length.

3. Securing. Pin the branch to the ground with wooden or wire hooks 25–30 cm long in several places (Tarasov et al., 1981). This prevents it from rising.

4. Light covering. Fill the furrow with loose fertile soil to a depth of 2–3 cm, but do not cover the terminal bud – it must remain on the surface. Water, and mulch if necessary.

Care During the Summer

From the lateral buds of the laid branch, vertical shoots begin to grow. When they reach 12–15 cm in length, earth them up for the first time – cover with moist loose soil about half their height (6–8 cm). After 2–3 weeks, repeat the earthing‑up, bringing the soil layer to 20–25 cm (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Earthing‑up induces the formation of adventitious roots at the base of each vertical shoot. For successful rooting, it is very important to keep the soil constantly moist and loose, free of weeds. In dry summers, regular watering is necessary.

By autumn, each vertical shoot has formed its own root system. In late September – the first half of October, the rooted layers are cut off from the mother bush with secateurs, separating them from the main branch, and carefully dug up. Then each vertical shoot (with roots) is cut into individual saplings.

Important: separate the layers only after they have rooted well (usually 2–4 months after laying). When digging, try not to damage the young roots.

4.2. Vertical Layering

This method is used when you need fewer saplings, or when the bush has many vertical basal shoots that are difficult to bend to the ground (e.g., in compact varieties). Vertical layering gives saplings that develop from shoots growing from the base of the bush (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Preparing the Bush

In early spring, the mother bush is cut back hard, leaving stumps 10–15 cm above the ground. This stimulates dormant buds at the base to break and produce many vertical shoots.

When the shoots reach 15–20 cm in height, they are earthed up with moist loose soil to a height of 10–12 cm (about half). After 2–3 weeks, when the shoots have grown again, earthing‑up is repeated, bringing the height of the mound to 20–25 cm. During the summer, the mounds are kept moist and loose.

The vertical shoots covered with soil produce roots in their lower part. In autumn, the soil is carefully raked away, and each rooted shoot is separated from the mother bush together with a piece of the rhizome.

Features

Produces fewer saplings than horizontal layering, but they are more vigorous.
Requires more careful attention to moisture and soil structure in the mound.
Well suited for varieties whose basal shoots grow vertically and are difficult to bend.

4.3. Arcuate (or Arch) Layering

This method is a simplified variant of horizontal layering, where the branch is not bent completely, but only its middle or tip, leaving the end above the ground. Arcuate layering gives 1–2 large saplings per branch.

Technique

1. Choose a strong one‑ or two‑year‑old shoot.

2. Bend it to the ground in an arch so that the middle part of the branch touches the soil, while the tip points upward (above the surface).

3. At the point of contact, dig a shallow hole (5–10 cm), lay the branch in it, pin it with hooks, and cover with fertile soil. The upper part of the shoot remains free.

4. If the tip is too long, it can be cut back slightly to stimulate branching.

5. Care – watering and loosening at the buried spot.

By autumn, roots form on the covered part. The layer is separated from the mother bush, yielding a ready‑to‑plant sapling.

Advantages

Simplicity – no need to dig long furrows.
Minimal labour input.
Gives strong saplings because the upper part remains above ground and continues photosynthesis.

Comparative Characteristics of Layering Methods

Method	Number of saplings per branch	Labour intensity	Application features
Horizontal	5–10 and more	Medium	Most productive, for most varieties
Vertical	3–5	Medium / higher	For compact varieties, shoots hard to bend
Arcuate	1–2	Low	For obtaining a small number of large saplings

General Rules for All Types of Layering

Soil should be fertile, loose, and moisture‑retentive. Before laying layers, it is advisable to add humus or compost.
Constant moisture is a critical factor. In dry weather, water the layers at least 1–2 times a week.
Timely earthing‑up – do not miss the second earthing‑up, as it is this that ensures the formation of a powerful root system.
Autumn digging – carry it out carefully, with a large ball of soil. If the roots are still weak, leave the layers until the next spring.
Mother bush should not be overloaded – it is better to use no more than 3–5 branches from one bush for layering, so as not to weaken it.

Layering is perhaps the most “forgiving of errors” method. Even with imperfect care, most layers take root and give viable saplings. That is why they are recommended for beginner gardeners and for those who live in regions with short summers where cuttings may not give the desired result (Tarasov et al., 1981).

5. Division of the Bush

Division is the fastest way to obtain new blackcurrant plants, requiring almost no waiting time. Unlike cuttings or layering, where saplings have to be grown for one or two years, by division you get mature, ready‑to‑plant bushes with their own root system and above‑ground part in a single day. This method is indispensable when you need to urgently transplant a bush to a new location or rejuvenate an old plantation without spending time on growing‑on.

However, division has its limitations: from one bush you will get only 2–4 (sometimes up to 6) divisions, whereas cuttings yield dozens, and layering up to 15 saplings. Therefore, division is used primarily for renewing your own garden or for propagating particularly valuable varieties where quantity is secondary, and speed and guaranteed results are paramount.

When and Which Bush to Choose for Division

The best time for division is early spring (before bud break) or autumn (after leaf fall, 3–4 weeks before lasting frosts). Autumn division is preferable for the middle belt: plants manage to root before winter and start growing in spring without delay. In regions with severe winters, it is better to divide in spring so that young divisions do not suffer from frost (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

For division, choose a healthy, well‑developed bush aged 4–6 years, with strong annual growth and high productivity. Older bushes (8–10 years) can also be divided, but their root system is often heavily lignified, and divisions establish less well. If the bush is clearly ageing, it is better to use it for layering or cuttings rather than division.

Signs of a good bush for division:

several strong basal shoots growing from the base;
a developed, branched root system;
no signs of disease (swollen buds, powdery mildew, anthracnose) or pests.

Step‑by‑Step Instructions

Step 1. Preparation.

1–2 days before division, water the bush abundantly – this makes digging easier and preserves the root system. Prepare planting holes at the new location (40–50 cm deep, 50–60 cm in diameter) and fill them with a mixture of fertile soil and humus or compost (1–2 buckets per hole).

Step 2. Digging up the bush.

Carefully dig around the bush, stepping back 30–40 cm from the centre. Try to preserve as many roots as possible. Dig to a depth of at least 30–40 cm. Using a spade or fork, lift the bush out of the ground together with the root ball. If the bush is very large, it is convenient to first cut off some of the above‑ground shoots, leaving stumps 20–30 cm high – this makes handling easier.

Step 3. Cleaning and inspection.

Shake off excess soil from the roots so that natural division points become visible. Inspect the root system: remove dry, rotten, or damaged roots. Shorten overly long roots to 20–25 cm – this stimulates the formation of new fine rootlets.

Step 4. Division.

Divide the bush into parts so that each division has:

2–3 strong basal shoots (annual or biennial) with well‑developed buds;
its own root ball with roots at least 15–20 cm long;
a healthy root collar (the transition zone between roots and stems).

Division is carried out with a sharp spade, secateurs, or hatchet – try to make clean cuts without crushing tissues. Naturally separable bushes can sometimes be pulled apart by hand. Treat each division immediately: dust the root cuts with crushed charcoal or treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to prevent rotting.

Step 5. Planting the divisions.

Plant the divisions in their permanent place, burying the root collar 6–8 cm below the soil level (as with ordinary sapling planting). This deepening encourages the formation of additional adventitious roots and rapid recovery of the bush. Shorten the above‑ground part: leave 3–4 well‑developed buds on each shoot (Dankov, 2015; Kurennoi et al., 1985). This balances the aerial and underground parts, reduces evaporation, and helps the plant establish.

After planting, water the divisions abundantly (1–2 buckets of water per bush), and mulch the root zone with peat, humus, or compost in a layer of 3–5 cm to retain moisture and protect the roots from overheating and drying out.

Care of Divisions in the First Season

In the first year after division, the plants are especially needy:

Regular watering – in dry weather at least 1–2 times a week, so that the soil is always moderately moist but without waterlogging.
Loosening – after each watering or rain, to prevent crust formation and allow the roots to breathe.
Weeding – weeds take moisture and nutrients from weakened plants.
Shading – in hot weather, it is useful to shade the divisions for the first 2–3 weeks (e.g., with light fleece or branches) until the root system recovers.
Fertilising – 2–3 weeks after planting, you can give a weak solution of complete mineral fertiliser (e.g., 30–40 g of nitrophoska per 10 litres of water per bush) or manure tea (1:10). This accelerates recovery and growth.

With proper care, divisions will give a small crop the next year, and reach full productivity in the second or third year (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Advantages and Disadvantages

Advantages	Disadvantages
Fastest method – you immediately get large plants	Very few saplings from one bush (2–4, rarely more)
Divisions retain all varietal characteristics	Severe root trauma – requires careful care
No special conditions required (greenhouses, cold frames, mist)	Not suitable for mass propagation
Can be combined with transplanting an old bush to a new location	Requires an adult, well‑developed bush (not for young plants)
Divisions establish quickly and bear fruit early	When dividing an old bush, there is a risk of transferring diseases

When Division Is Particularly Beneficial

Moving to a new plot – if you are transplanting favourite varieties to a new location, divide the bush and plant the parts immediately in permanent positions, obtaining several plants instead of one.
Rejuvenation of an old bush – instead of uprooting an old, low‑yielding bush, divide it into divisions and plant them in prepared places – they will recover quickly and give a crop.
Saving time – if you need to replenish the garden without waiting for cuttings or layers to grow to size.

Important: do not try to divide very old bushes (older than 10–12 years) – their root system is often already lignified and has few viable buds; divisions will be weak and take a long time to recover. In such cases, it is better to use the bush for cuttings or layering (Tarasov et al., 1981).

Mistakes in Division

Too small divisions – leave at least 2–3 shoots, otherwise the bush will take a long time to build up mass.
Too short root pruning – if you leave roots too long, they branch poorly; shorten to 20–25 cm.
Damaging the root collar – during division, try not to tear the transition zone; make clean cuts.
Insufficient watering – in the first month after division, watering is critical; otherwise, divisions may dry out.

Overall, division is the “first aid” for the gardener when you need to quickly obtain a few viable plants. For planned collection expansion or plantation establishment, it is still better to use cuttings or layering – they give more material and do not weaken the mother plant to the same extent.

6. Grafting

Grafting is the most complex and rarely used method of blackcurrant propagation in amateur gardening. Unlike cuttings, layering, or division, grafting requires special skills, sharp tools, and a good understanding of plant physiology. However, in some cases it is the only or most convenient solution.

Why Graft Currants?

In berry‑growing practice, grafting is used mainly for two purposes:

1. Producing standard (tree‑like) forms. By grafting a cutting of a valuable blackcurrant variety onto a high trunk (rootstock) – most often on a seedling of golden currant or on a specially grown standard – a neat “tree” is formed. Such a form is convenient for small gardens, ornamental plantings, and facilitates berry picking. Grafting onto golden currant also improves drought tolerance (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

2. Propagation of varieties that root poorly. For some varieties, especially certain hybrids or old forms, cuttings give a low rooting percentage. Grafting onto a vigorous and well‑compatible rootstock allows such varieties to be preserved and propagated, although this method is labour‑intensive and does not produce mass planting material.

In addition, grafting is used in breeding to create new varieties (e.g., ribelaria – a hybrid of currant and gooseberry), and for preserving rare collection specimens.

Which Rootstocks Are Used

For blackcurrant, the most commonly used rootstocks are:

Golden currant (Ribes aureum) – it gives a vigorous, drought‑tolerant trunk and good compatibility with blackcurrant (Dankov, 2015; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
Blackcurrant seedlings – used less often, usually for obtaining own‑rooted plants, but grafting onto the same species gives good take.
Red currant or gooseberry – compatibility with them is poorer; such variants are used mainly for experimental purposes.

Grafting Methods

In amateur gardening, two main methods are used for currants:

Improved whip‑and‑tongue grafting – when the rootstock and scion are of the same thickness, oblique cuts 2–3 cm long are made, joined, and tightly bound. This method is good for grafting cuttings onto a trunk or onto the root system.
Split grafting – used when the rootstock is thicker than the scion. A split 2–3 cm deep is made in the rootstock, a wedge‑shaped scion cutting is inserted, and bound. This method is used for top‑working adult bushes.

Budding (grafting with a dormant bud) is used extremely rarely for currants, as currants propagate better by cuttings and layering.

Safety and Timing

Grafting is carried out early in spring, before bud break (in the middle belt – April), when both rootstock and scion are dormant. Tools (secateurs, grafting knife) must be sharp and disinfected (with alcohol or a strong solution of potassium permanganate) to prevent infection.

Cuts should be as smooth and even as possible, the cambial layers of rootstock and scion aligned, then the graft union tightly bound with polyethylene tape or special grafting tape, and sealed with grafting wax or wax to prevent drying.

Care of Grafted Plants

After grafting, it is important to:

Remove any rootstock suckers promptly – they take nutrition and may outcompete the scion.
Tie the growing scion shoot to a support to prevent wind breakage.
Water and feed the plant abundantly, especially in the first year after grafting.
Remove the binding once the union has healed completely (usually after 2–3 months) to avoid girdling.

Is It Worth Trying?

For most amateur gardeners, grafting currants is an unnecessarily complex and risky method. It is much simpler and more reliable to obtain saplings by cuttings or layering. However, if you enjoy gardening experiments, have a valuable variety that is difficult to propagate otherwise, or want to create an unusual standard tree on your plot – grafting opens up those possibilities. Remember: success comes with experience, so start with simple methods (e.g., grafting a cutting onto a golden currant seedling) and do not be discouraged by initial failures.

In commercial fruit growing, grafting of currants is hardly used because of its labour intensity and low economic efficiency – it is much more profitable to establish plantations with own‑rooted saplings (Potapov et al., 2000). Therefore, in the next section we will return to more familiar and accessible methods and discuss the specifics of caring for young plants, regardless of how they were obtained.

7. Care of Young Plants

Whichever propagation method you choose – cuttings, layering, or division – the main key to success lies beyond the propagation itself. How you care for young plants in the first months and years of their lives directly determines whether they will become strong, productive bushes or will languish and suffer for a long time. Fortunately, currant is a rewarding crop: with minimal but regular care, it quickly grows (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

In this section, we give universal recommendations that apply to plants of any “age” – from freshly rooted cuttings to large divisions.

7.1. Pruning after Planting

Paradoxically, caring for a young plant starts with shortening it. Immediately after planting (cuttings, layers, divisions), the above‑ground part is pruned to balance it with the root system, which inevitably suffers during transplanting (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Dankov, 2015).

General rules:

For cuttings – they are planted at an angle, leaving 1–2 buds above ground. This is standard and does not need to be changed.
For annual saplings (from layers or divisions) – all shoots are shortened, leaving 3–4 well‑developed buds from the base on each. This usually corresponds to a height of 10–15 cm above the ground.
For large divisions – also prune all shoots, leaving 3–4 buds, regardless of how many shoots the division had. This stimulates the formation of new strong basal shoots and more quickly forms a compact bush.

Pruning is carried out before bud break – in early spring or immediately after autumn planting (Dankov, 2015). If you plant cuttings in autumn, pruning has already been done during preparation; if you plant in spring, shorten them before planting.

7.2. Watering – the Foundation of Young Sapling Life

The root system of young plants is still weak, and evaporation from the leaves (even after pruning) continues. Therefore, regular watering is the main condition for establishment. This is especially important for cuttings in the nursery bed, whose roots are just beginning to form (Tarasov et al., 1981; Potapov et al., 2000).

Recommendations:

In the first 2–3 weeks after planting, water daily in dry weather, using 0.5–1 bucket of water per 1 m² of bed or 1–2 buckets per sapling (for large divisions).
Then switch to watering every 3–4 days in hot summers, and once a week in moderate weather.
A guide – the soil should be moist to a depth of 15–20 cm, but without waterlogging. Over‑watering is as dangerous as under‑watering – roots may rot.
The best time for watering is morning or evening, so that droplets do not cause leaf scorch.
When watering, try not to wash away the soil at the base of the stem. A watering can with a rose or drip irrigation is convenient.

7.3. Loosening and Mulching

Frequent watering compacts the soil, and a hard crust prevents air from reaching the young roots. Therefore, loosening is an essential practice in caring for the nursery bed and young saplings.

Loosen the soil in rows and around saplings after each watering or heavy rain, once it has dried slightly.
Depth of loosening – 5–8 cm in the root zone (to avoid damaging roots) and 10–12 cm between rows (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
Simultaneously with loosening, remove weeds – they are the main competitors of young plants for moisture and nutrients.

Mulching greatly simplifies care: mulch (peat, humus, compost, dry grass, sawdust) in a layer of 3–5 cm retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and protects the roots from overheating and cooling. Mulch the root zone immediately after planting and renew the layer as needed (Dankov, 2015; Tarasov et al., 1981). Important: in autumn planting, mulching helps protect the roots from frost, especially if there is little snow.

7.4. Fertilising – When and What

In the first year after planting, if you have enriched the planting hole or bed with organic matter, additional fertiliser is often unnecessary. Young plants use the reserves placed in the soil. However, if the soil is poor or the saplings are growing weakly, you can carry out 1–2 feedings during the summer.

An approximate scheme:

3–4 weeks after planting – nitrogen fertiliser (10–15 g of urea or ammonium nitrate per 10 litres of water, applied as a bucket per 1–2 m² of bed or per bush). Nitrogen stimulates shoot and leaf growth.
Late June – early July – compound fertiliser (e.g., nitrophoska – 20–30 g per 10 litres of water) or manure tea (1:10) with the addition of wood ash (a glass per bucket). This supports root system development and flower bud formation for the next year.

Important: do not over‑fertilise – excess nitrogen causes vigorous shoot growth that may not mature before winter and freeze. It is better to under‑feed than over‑feed (Potapov et al., 2000).

7.5. Protection against Diseases and Pests

Young plants are more vulnerable than adults. Particularly dangerous for cuttings and rooting layers are:

Powdery mildew – appears in wet summers; spraying with a soda solution (50 g per 10 l) or biofungicides helps.
Anthracnose and leaf spots – prevention: do not overcrowd plantings, remove weeds in time, at first signs treat with copper‑containing preparations (e.g., 1 % Bordeaux mixture).
Bud mite – noticeable by swollen round buds; such buds should be picked and burned. For prevention, spray with colloidal sulphur or acaricides in spring (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).
Aphids – colonies on shoot tips; treatment with soapy water or plant‑based insecticides (tobacco infusion, garlic) helps.

In the first year, try to use biological or gentle methods – young leaves and shoots are sensitive to chemicals. In case of heavy infestation, use approved preparations strictly according to the instructions.

7.6. Preparing for the First Winter

Young saplings (especially annual ones) are less winter‑hardy than adult bushes. Help them survive the winter:

In autumn, after leaf fall, carry out moisture‑charging irrigation (2–3 buckets per bush or water the bed thoroughly) – moist soil conducts heat better and freezes less.
Mulch the root zone with peat, humus, or dry leaves in a layer of 8–10 cm. This protects the roots from freezing in snow‑poor conditions.
In regions with severe winters (little snow, severe frosts), you can additionally bend annual shoots to the ground and cover them with spruce branches, non‑woven fabric (spunbond), or simply cover with snow as soon as it falls (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).
Make sure there is no standing water over the plantings in winter – this causes the root collar to rot.

7.7. Further Shaping of the Bush

Caring for a young sapling does not end after the first year. In the second and third years, continue:

Formative pruning – leave 3–4 of the strongest basal shoots each year, remove weak, crowding, and broken branches. By the fourth year, the bush should have 12–15 branches of different ages (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Dankov, 2015).
Regular watering – especially during drought and during berry filling.
Fertilising – from the second year, apply organic matter (compost or humus) in autumn (2–3 buckets per bush) and mineral fertilisers in spring (nitrogen) and summer (phosphorus‑potassium).
Weed control – keep the root zones clean; this reduces disease risk and improves nutrition.

The Key Rule

A young plant must be seen and heard – inspect it regularly, notice changes in leaf colour, growth rate, the presence or absence of pests. Often problems are easier to prevent than to cure. Do not begrudge spending a few minutes each week inspecting your nursery bed or young plantation – it will reward you with a generous harvest already in the second or third year.

In the final section, we will discuss typical mistakes and answer frequently asked questions that arise for gardeners when propagating blackcurrant. This will help you avoid the most common failures and get exactly the results you expect.

8. Main Mistakes and FAQs

Even when following all the recommendations, something may go wrong. Blackcurrant has high “survivability”, but some mistakes can nullify all efforts. In this section, we have collected the most common blunders of beginners (and not only) and answered the questions that our readers most often ask. We hope this material will help you avoid disappointments and obtain exactly the saplings you intended.

Typical Mistakes

1. Incorrect choice of mother bush

Using old, diseased, or weak bushes for propagation is the main cause of weak offspring. Signs of a good mother plant: annual growth of at least 30–40 cm, absence of swollen buds (bud mite), spots on leaves, and signs of powdery mildew (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Tarasov et al., 1981).

How to avoid: select for propagation only healthy, productive bushes aged 3–6 years.

2. Violation of harvesting and planting dates

Hardwood cuttings taken too early (before leaf fall) or too late (in severe frost) root poorly.
Green cuttings cut after lignification begins lose their rooting ability.
Autumn planting of cuttings in unheated or waterlogged soil leads to rotting (Tarasov et al., 1981; Potapov et al., 2000).
How to avoid:** strictly follow the dates given in the sections. For autumn planting, aim for the end of leaf fall (September – October in the middle belt); for spring planting, when the soil has thawed and warmed to +5…+8 °C.

3. Incorrect planting depth

Too shallow planting of cuttings (more than 2 buds above ground) – roots develop poorly, the sapling is weak.
Too deep planting – rotting of the root collar, especially on heavy soils (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Dankov, 2015).
How to avoid:** when planting cuttings, leave 1–2 buds above the surface. For divisions and layers, bury the root collar 6–8 cm – this is optimal for adventitious root formation.

4. Insufficient watering in the first season

Young plants with undeveloped root systems are especially sensitive to drought. Even a short drying of the topsoil can kill cuttings or slow the growth of layers (Tarasov et al., 1981; Potapov et al., 2000).

How to avoid: water regularly, especially in the first month after planting. Maintain soil moisture not lower than 70–80 % of full water‑holding capacity. Mulching helps retain moisture.

5. Overcrowding in the nursery bed

Too dense planting of cuttings leads to competition for light, moisture, and nutrients. Saplings become elongated, branch poorly, and mature less well (Tarasov et al., 1981).

How to avoid: follow the recommended spacing (70×10 cm, 80+20×10 cm, etc.). Do not skimp on space – the quality of saplings is more important than quantity.

6. Neglect of pruning at planting

Many gardeners are reluctant to prune divisions or annual layers, thinking that the more shoots, the better. As a result, the root system cannot support a large crown, and the plant suffers for a long time (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov et al., 2012).

How to avoid: after planting, always shorten all shoots, leaving 3–4 buds. This stimulates root development and the formation of new strong growth.

7. Ignoring diseases and pests on young plants

Powdery mildew, anthracnose, and bud mite are especially dangerous for immature saplings. Infected planting material can ruin the entire future plantation (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

How to avoid: regularly inspect young plants. At the first signs of disease, use approved fungicides or insecticides (preferably biological). Remove buds infested with bud mite immediately and burn them.

8. Improper winter storage of cuttings

Storing in too warm a place causes premature bud break; in too dry – drying out; in too wet – rotting (Tarasov et al., 1981).

How to avoid: store cuttings at 0…+2 °C in moist sand or under snow. Check their condition periodically.

9. Delaying the digging of rooted layers

If you leave rooted layers over winter without separating them from the mother bush, their roots may become tangled and damaged during spring digging. Moreover, the mother bush continues to feed them, weakening itself (Tarasov et al., 1981).

How to avoid: separate the layers in autumn (late September – October) when they have rooted well, or, as a last resort, early spring before sap flow.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. When is the best time to propagate currants – spring or autumn?

Both times are good. In autumn (late September – mid‑October), cuttings and layers root better because the plants have finished growing and are preparing for dormancy. In spring (before bud break), you can plant cuttings stored over winter and divide bushes. The choice depends on your region and available time. In the middle belt, autumn is preferable; in Siberia and the Urals, spring is better to avoid winterkill (Potapov et al., 2000; Tarasov et al., 1981).

2. How many cuttings can be taken from one bush without harming it?

A healthy adult bush (4–6 years) can give up to 10–15 strong annual shoots for cuttings without detriment to itself. If you take more, leaving the bush with almost no growth, it will weaken and reduce yield. For mass harvesting, use special mother bushes that are not cropped for fruit (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

3. Can currants be propagated by seed?

Yes, but it is not recommended for obtaining varietal plants. Seed propagation is used only in breeding. Seedlings do not repeat the traits of the parent variety, and the harvest will be unpredictable. For the amateur gardener, this is a waste of time (Dankov, 2015).

4. Why do my cuttings fail to root?

Several reasons:

shoots too thin (less than 6 mm);
poor maturation (did not lignify in time);
soil too dry or too wet;
improper storage (drying or rotting);
a variety that roots poorly (then try layering).
eck each point and take these errors into account next season.

5. At what distance should young saplings be planted in their permanent place?

For blackcurrant in the home garden, the optimum is 1.5–2 m between bushes in the row and 2.5–3 m between rows. With denser planting (1.0–1.2 m), bushes will shade each other, yield will decrease, and diseases will spread faster (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov et al., 2012). For intensive commercial plantations, spacings of 2.5×0.6–0.7 m are used, but in the home garden this is only justified with very good care and for a short exploitation period (Potapov et al., 2000).

6. How many years after planting do saplings begin to bear fruit?

Cuttings – give the first berries in the second or third year, full fruiting from the fourth year.
Layers and divisions – often give a small crop the next year, and reach full productivity in the third or fourth year (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Dankov, 2015).

7. Do young saplings need winter protection?

In the middle belt – mulching the root zone with peat or humus in a layer of 8–10 cm is sufficient. In regions with severe, snow‑poor winters (Siberia, the Urals), annual saplings can be bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches or spunbond. Snow is the best insulator, so try to retain it on the site (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

8. How can I tell if a cutting has rooted?

When 2–3 weeks after planting (or in spring for autumn‑planted cuttings) leaves begin to unfold from the remaining buds, this is a sure sign that root formation has started. However, while the roots are still weak, do not rush to transplant – let them strengthen until autumn or the following spring (Tarasov et al., 1981).

9. Can currants be propagated together with other crops (e.g., gooseberries)?

Yes, the technology of cuttings and layering is largely similar for them. Gooseberries can be propagated by the same methods, but layering is often preferred because of the more difficult rooting of cuttings. Do not plant currant and gooseberry cuttings too close together in the nursery bed – they might cross‑pollinate? No, cross‑pollination does not occur as they are different species, but competition for resources will occur. Simply keep the recommended distances (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Trunov et al., 2012).

10. What to do if a division does not establish?

Check whether the root collar is buried too deep, whether there is any rot, whether watering is adequate. If the division begins to wilt, you can try to urgently replant it in looser, moister soil, shade it, and increase watering. In most cases, currants recover well if drying out is prevented.

Conclusion

Propagating blackcurrant is a fascinating process accessible to everyone. Mistakes are inevitable, but it is they that give experience. The main thing is not to be afraid, to try different methods, and to observe the plants. Start with the simplest (horizontal layering or hardwood cuttings), and in a year or two you will have your own planting material of the best varieties. If one method fails – try another. Currant is a grateful crop, and your efforts will certainly be rewarded with tasty, vitamin‑rich berries.

Happy gardening!

References

Даньков, В.Васильевич., Скрипниченко, М.Михайловна., Логинова, С.Федоровна., Горбачёва, Н.Николаевна., Щербакова, Г.Васильевна., Долженко, Т.Васильевна. (2015). ‘Смородина [Currant]’, in Ягодные культуры [Berry crops]. Санкт-Петербург: Лань, pp. 101-111.
Куренной, Н.М. (1985). ‘Культура ягодных растений [Berry plant culture]’, in Плодоводство [Fruit growing]. Москва: Агропромиздат, pp. 337-385.
Потапов, В.А., Фаустов, В.В., Пильщикова, Ф.Н. (2000). ‘Ягодные культуры [Berry crops]’, in Плодоводство [Fruit growing]. Москва: Колос, pp. 408-428.
Тарасов, В.М., Фаустов, В.В., Никиточкина, Т.Д. (1981). ‘Выращивание посадочного материала смородины из одревеспевших черенков [Growing currant planting material from woody cuttings]’, in Практикум по плодоводству [Fruit growing workshop]. Москва: Колос, pp. 189-191.
Трунов, Ю.В., Самощенков, Е.Г., Дорошенко, Т.Н. (2012). ‘Ягодные культуры [Berry crops]’, in Плодоводство [Fruit growing]. Москва: КолосС, pp. 386-412.