Planting and establishment

Autumn Planting

For most temperate regions, autumn is considered the optimal time for establishing a plantation. In the central belt, the best window is from late September to mid‑October (Kurennoy et al., 1985). In southern areas, planting can continue into November, while in northern regions it should be completed no later than the first ten days of September.

Advantages of autumn planting:

• Plants have time to root before persistent frosts set in
• Survival rates are higher than with spring planting
• Bushes start growing earlier in spring
• Less irrigation hassle—autumn rains provide natural moisture

It’s crucial to plant 3–4 weeks before the soil freezes solid, so the root system can adapt. In regions with harsh, low‑snow winters, autumn planting is not recommended—plants may freeze before they become established (Potapov et al., 2000).

Spring Planting

Spring planting of blackcurrants should be done early in spring, as soon as the soil thaws and can be worked (usually April to early May). Since currants wake up very early, you must finish before buds break.

When spring planting is preferable:

• In regions with severe, low‑snow winters
• On heavy, waterlogged soils (autumn planting increases the risk of rotting)
• If planting material comes in containers with a closed root system

With spring planting, young bushes need regular watering—especially in dry weather—and mulching around the root zone. However, keep in mind that spring‑planted plants may lag behind autumn‑planted ones in their first year (Buckingham, 2010).

Planting Container‑Grown Plants

Container‑grown plants offer the most flexibility—they can be planted throughout the growing season, weather permitting. Still, the best times remain early spring and autumn. Avoid summer planting during hot, dry spells (Hessayon, 1993; Buckingham, 2010).

General rule: for bare‑root plants, autumn is best. For container plants, timing restrictions are minimal, but spring or autumn remain preferable.

What NOT to Do When Choosing Planting Time

• Do not plant in frozen or waterlogged soil. In the first case, roots cannot establish; in the second, there’s a high risk of rot.
• Do not plant during the hot summer months (July–August). Even container plants struggle to establish in intense heat (Buckingham, 2010).
• Do not delay autumn planting. Plants must root before frost arrives.

Quick Regional Timing Guide

Now that you know when to plant, let’s move on to the next step—choosing high‑quality planting stock.

2.1. Key Selection Criteria

For establishing either a commercial or amateur plantation, it is advisable to use certified (virus‑tested) planting material. In Russia, two categories of currant saplings are recognised: Class A (cleared of viruses and mycoplasmas) and Class B (visually healthy) (Kurennoy et al., 1985). For amateur gardeners, Class B saplings from reputable nurseries that guarantee variety purity are sufficient.

Sapling age. The best planting stock is one‑ or two‑year‑old saplings. Two‑year‑olds bear fruit sooner, but one‑year‑olds, given proper planting and pruning, develop well too. A two‑year‑old sapling should have at least 2–3 shoots; a one‑year‑old, 1–2 shoots (Kurennoy et al., 1985).

2.2. Root System

The root system is the primary indicator of a sapling's viability. During inspection, pay attention to:

• Root length. For first‑grade saplings, roots should be at least 15–20 cm; for second‑grade, at least 10–15 cm (Kurennoy et al., 1985). Roots should be branched, fibrous, free from mechanical damage or rot.
• Colour and condition. Healthy roots are light‑coloured, firm, with living white tips. Dark, brown, dry, or brittle roots indicate drying out or disease.
• Root collar. The transition between roots and stem should be distinct, without cracks or suspicious swellings.

If buying bare‑root saplings, ensure the roots are not dried out and are packed in moist material (burlap, sawdust, clay slurry). Dried roots dramatically reduce survival.

2.3. Above‑ground Portion (Shoots and Buds)

The above‑ground part must also meet certain standards:

• Number of shoots. One‑year‑old saplings should have at least 1–2 well‑developed shoots; two‑year‑olds, 2–3 (Kurennoy et al., 1985). Shoots should be straight, undamaged, with no signs of frost cracks, sunburn, or diseases (e.g., powdery mildew).
• Shoot diameter. At the base, a one‑year‑old should be at least 0.8 cm in diameter; a two‑year‑old, at least 1 cm. Thinner shoots indicate weak plants.
• Shoot length. For first‑grade saplings, shoots should be at least 40 cm; for second‑grade, at least 30 cm (Kurennoy et al., 1985). Very short shoots may indicate poor development.
• Buds. Buds should be large, firm, and not damaged by currant gall mites (sign: swollen, rounded, unnaturally large buds resembling tiny cabbage heads). On healthy saplings, buds lie flat against the shoot.

Important: Saplings must show no signs of pest infestation (galls, tunnels, larvae) or diseases (spots, coatings, necroses). Even minor damage can become a source of infection for the entire garden.

2.4. Container‑Grown (Closed‑Root‑System) Saplings

Container‑grown plants are increasingly popular for good reasons:

• Year‑round planting (except extreme heat and frost)
• High survival rates—roots aren't disturbed during transplanting
• Faster start, as roots have already filled the container

When choosing a container sapling, check:

• It should be well rooted in the container. If the plant slides out easily with a solid root ball and roots have filled the container, that's a good sign.
• Roots should not be protruding through drainage holes (this suggests the plant is pot‑bound and may be stressed).
• The top growth should be healthy, without wilting, with well‑formed shoots and buds.

Container saplings are usually more expensive, but their advantages—convenience and reliability—often justify the cost.

2.5. Where to Buy and Red Flags

Purchase planting material only from specialised nurseries or trusted suppliers who can guarantee variety purity and freedom from disease. Avoid buying from roadside sellers, informal markets, or unverified online shops—the risk of infected or mislabelled plants is too high.

Warning signs to watch for:

• Dried, shrivelled roots
• Mould or rot on roots
• Cracks or bark damage on shoots
• Swollen, rounded buds (gall mite indicator)
• Spots, coatings, or necrotic areas on shoots or leaves (if present)
• Suspiciously low price (usually = low quality)

Remember: a healthy plant is the key to abundant, long‑lasting fruiting. Don't skimp on planting stock; it determines your harvest for the next 10–15 years.

3.1. Choosing a Planting Layout: Amateur vs. Commercial

Start with the golden rule: blackcurrants should not be crowded. In dense plantings, light penetration and air circulation suffer, promoting powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. Berries become smaller and yields drop.

For home and amateur gardens, an optimal layout is:

• Between bushes in a row — 1.2–1.5 m (about 4–5 ft)
• Between rows — 1.5–2 m (about 5–6 ft)

This allows about 30–40 bushes per 100 m² (1 are). Bushes get enough light and nutrients, while row spacing remains comfortable for walking, weeding, watering, and harvesting.

For intensive amateur plantings or limited spaces, you can tighten spacing to 0.8–1 m between plants, provided you ensure good nutrition, irrigation, and regular pruning to prevent overcrowding.

For commercial plantations, denser layouts designed for mechanised cultivation are used:

• Between rows — 2.5–3 m (for machinery access)
• Between bushes in a row — 0.6–0.8 m (sometimes up to 1 m)

Commercial densities reach 5,000–8,000 bushes per hectare. These plantations bear fruit sooner but have a shorter lifespan—typically 6–8 years, whereas more open‑grown bushes can produce for 10–15 years (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

What should an amateur choose? For a typical garden, stick with the more open layout—1.5 × 2 m. It gives high yields, long bush life, and easy maintenance.

3.2. Row Orientation

Row direction matters for sunlight and airflow. In most regions, orient rows north to south. This maximises daily sunlight exposure, with morning and evening sun illuminating both sides evenly.

However, there are nuances:

• On slopes (especially erosion‑prone areas), rows should run across the slope to retain water and prevent soil wash.
• In areas with prevailing winds, orient rows along the wind direction (perpendicular to prevailing winds) for better ventilation and reduced damage (Potapov et al., 2000).

For most flat areas in temperate zones, north–south is the most reliable choice.

3.3. Plant and Row Spacing: Additional Considerations

When choosing distances, consider not only the layout but also the variety's characteristics:

• Vigorous varieties (e.g., European types) need more space—up to 1.5–1.8 m between bushes.
• Compact varieties (e.g., some Siberian varieties and modern types like 'Ben Sarek') can be planted more densely—0.8–1.0 m.

Soil fertility also plays a role: on rich chernozems, bushes grow larger, so increase spacing; on poor sandy soils, you can plant a little closer.

3.4. Access Paths for Maintenance

Even in a small garden, convenient access paths are essential for:

• Watering, fertilising, weeding
• Pruning and shaping
• Harvesting
• Pest and disease control (spraying)

The minimum path width between rows is 1.5 m. That's enough to comfortably walk with a bucket, watering can, or wheelbarrow. If you plan to use garden machinery (tiller, cultivator, sprayer), row spacing should be at least 2–2.5 m (Trunov et al., 2012).

Leave a free strip at least 1 m wide along the outer rows and plot boundaries for machinery turning and access.

3.5. Planning for the Future

Remember, blackcurrants live in one place for 10–15 years. So think ahead:

• Will mature bushes shade other plants (trees, buildings, fences)? Currants need sun, so plant them in open areas.
• Consider possibilities for drip irrigation or installing a trellis (though not essential for bush‑form currants, it can be helpful for some intensive varieties).
• Ensure easy access to rows for harvesting, fertilising, etc.

On small plots, you can use a staggered arrangement or plant bushes along paths to provide access to each bush from both sides.

Quick layout summary:

4.1. When to Start Preparation

It's best to prepare planting sites in advance:

• For autumn planting, prepare holes or trenches 3–4 weeks ahead—usually in late August to early September.
• For spring planting, prepare in autumn so the soil settles and fertilisers partially decompose.

If time is short, you can dig the hole just before planting, but then water it well and let it settle for at least a few days.

4.2. Hole and Trench Dimensions

For blackcurrants, the optimal planting hole is 40–50 cm deep and 50–60 cm in diameter (Buckingham, 2010; Hessayon, 1993). These dimensions allow the root system to spread freely and the root zone to be well‑charged with nutrients.

For mass planting (many bushes at once), it's more convenient to dig trenches 50–60 cm wide and 40–50 cm deep. Trenches allow more even fertiliser distribution and simplify subsequent watering.

Important: on heavy clay soils with poor drainage, increase depth to 60 cm and add a drainage layer (broken brick, gravel, coarse sand) 10–15 cm thick at the bottom to prevent waterlogging (Potapov et al., 2000).

4.3. Filling the Hole with Organic and Mineral Fertilisers

Blackcurrants are heavy feeders, so the hole must be well fortified. The basic rule: organic matter and mineral fertilisers go into the lower and middle parts of the hole, mixed with excavated soil, with a layer of clean soil on top so the sapling's roots don't come into direct contact with concentrated fertilisers.

Typical filling per planting hole (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000):

• Well‑rotted manure or compost — 8–10 kg (about 1–1.5 buckets). This provides organic matter, improves soil structure, and supplies nutrients for 2–3 years.
• Superphosphate — 150–200 g (or double superphosphate 80–100 g). Phosphorus stimulates root development and flower bud formation.
• Potassium sulphate (or potassium magnesia) — 30–40 g. Potassium boosts winter hardiness and berry quality. Important: avoid potassium fertilisers containing chlorine (e.g., potassium chloride), as blackcurrants are highly sensitive to chloride—it can burn roots (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).
• Wood ash — 200–300 g (optional, as an extra source of potassium and trace elements).

If the soil is acidic (pH below 5.5), add 200–300 g of dolomite lime or ground limestone, thoroughly mixed with the soil. The optimal pH for blackcurrants is 6.0–6.5 (Potapov et al., 2000; Buckingham, 2010).

How to layer fertilisers correctly:

1. Divide the excavated soil into two parts: the top fertile layer (usually dark) and the lower (subsoil or clay).

2. Place a 5–7 cm layer of organic matter (compost or manure) at the bottom of the hole.

3. Mix the remaining organic matter, superphosphate, potassium fertiliser, and ash with the top fertile soil layer.

4. Fill the hole two‑thirds with this mixture, mix well, and lightly firm it.

5. Top with a 10–15 cm layer of clean topsoil (without fertilisers) so roots won't touch concentrated nutrients directly.

For trenches, distribute fertilisers evenly along the bottom and mix with the excavated soil over the entire length.

4.4. What If the Soil Is Heavy or Sandy?

• On clay, heavy soils, add coarse river sand (1–2 buckets) to the hole to improve water permeability and looseness.
• On light sandy soils that don't hold moisture well, increase organic matter (compost or manure) to 15–20 kg per hole, and add clay or loam (if available) to boost water‑holding capacity (Buckingham, 2010).

4.5. Watering and Soil Settling

After filling the hole with the soil mixture, water it generously—1–2 buckets per hole. This settles the soil, partially dissolves fertilisers, and distributes them. With advance preparation, the soil settles naturally, so the sapling won't end up too deep at planting.

Just before planting, check the hole depth—it should match the sapling's root system. Ideally, the root collar should be at or slightly below ground level after planting (more on planting depth in the next section).

4.6. Quick Hole‑Preparation Checklist

• [ ] Dig a 50 × 60 cm hole (or trench) 3–4 weeks before planting
• [ ] Add drainage at the bottom (if necessary)
• [ ] Add 8–10 kg well‑rotted manure or compost
• [ ] Add 150–200 g superphosphate and 30–40 g potassium sulphate (chlorine‑free!)
• [ ] For acidic soil, add 200–300 g dolomite lime
• [ ] Thoroughly mix fertilisers with the topsoil layer
• [ ] Fill the hole two‑thirds with the mixture, top with clean soil
• [ ] Water with 1–2 buckets and allow to settle

5.1. Preparing the Sapling for Planting

8–12 hours before planting, if the sapling is bare‑root, soak its roots in water at room temperature, covering all roots but not the shoots. You can add a rooting stimulant (e.g., 'Kornevin' or 'Heteroauxin' according to instructions) to speed new root formation (Potapov et al., 2000).

Before planting, inspect the roots. Cut off any damaged, dried, or broken tips with pruning shears down to healthy tissue. Long roots (over 20–25 cm) can also be shortened slightly to encourage branching.

If roots have dried during transport, dip them in a clay slurry (clay mixed with water to a cream‑like consistency) to prevent further drying until planting (Hessayon, 1993).

5.2. Planting Depth and Angle—The Key Difference for Blackcurrants

This is the crucial point that sets blackcurrant planting apart from many other fruit crops. Unlike red currants or gooseberries, blackcurrants are planted deeper than they grew in the nursery—with the root collar buried 5–7 cm, sometimes up to 10 cm (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Buckingham, 2010).

Why is this necessary?

With deep planting, dormant buds on the buried part of the stem develop additional adventitious roots and—most importantly—strong basal shoots (zero‑shoots). These shoots become the foundation of the future bush, as they carry the main crop. Without deep planting, the bush remains weak, with few branches and low yields (Hessayon, 1993; Kurennoy et al., 1985).

Sapling position in the hole:

Place the sapling not vertically, but at a 45° angle to the soil surface (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000). The angled planting also stimulates basal shoots: buds on the buried part of the angled stem produce strong new shoots, helping form a wide, well‑developed bush. Additionally, the root system spreads better through the fertile topsoil layer.

How to position correctly:

1. Form a small mound of prepared soil mix at the bottom of the hole.

2. Place the sapling on the mound, spreading roots evenly in all directions (they should lie naturally, without bending upward or tangling).

3. The root collar (where stem meets roots) should be 5–7 cm below ground level after final backfilling.

4. Direct the stem at a 45° angle, with the tip pointing roughly south (not critical, but helpful for orientation).

In practice, use the old soil mark on the sapling stem as a guide: after planting, it should be 5–7 cm above the new soil surface—meaning the new soil level is higher than the old mark (Kurennoy et al., 1985).

5.3. Backfilling the Hole

Backfill in two stages:

1. First, cover the roots with the topsoil layer (mixed with fertilisers) to 10–15 cm. Gently shake the sapling so soil fills all gaps between roots.

2. Lightly firm the soil around the roots by hand (not with your feet, to avoid damaging roots) and water with a small amount (about 2–3 litres) to settle the soil around the roots.

3. Then fill the hole completely with the remaining soil (without fertilisers), lightly firm, and form a watering basin around the trunk.

After full backfilling and firming, check that the root collar is at the right depth—5–7 cm below the soil surface. Level the soil around the sapling to confirm.

5.4. Watering After Planting

Immediately after planting, water generously—at least 1–2 buckets (10–20 litres) per bush (Buckingham, 2010; Hessayon, 1993). The water should soak the root zone and ensure good soil‑root contact.

After watering, the soil will settle a little; if the root collar ends up deeper than planned, that's fine—as long as it's not exposed. Top up with a little more soil if needed.

During the first month after planting, water regularly (every 5–7 days if no rain) to keep the soil from drying out. Blackcurrant roots are shallow, and drying of the top layer can seriously delay establishment (Potapov et al., 2000).

5.5. Pruning After Planting—Seems Harsh, but Essential

Immediately after planting, cut back the above‑ground part heavily. This may seem brutal, but it's critically important for the future bush. Pruning stimulates dormant buds at the base to produce strong basal shoots—the building blocks of the future bush (Buckingham, 2010; Hessayon, 1993).

How to prune:

• For a one‑year‑old sapling, shorten all shoots to 2–3 well‑developed buds above ground level (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000). In practice, this means cutting back to 10–15 cm from the ground.
• For a two‑year‑old with multiple shoots, shorten each similarly to 2–3 buds. Remove weak, thin, or damaged shoots entirely at the base.

This severe pruning temporarily reduces moisture loss and redirects nutrients to root development and bud‑break at the base, which will produce strong growth in the very first year.

Important: Don't spare the sapling. An unpruned blackcurrant will be slow to recover, produce weak growth, and bear fruit late. A properly pruned bush can yield a good crop as early as the second year.

5.6. Mulching After Planting

The final step is mulching around the planting hole. Mulch serves several useful purposes:

• Retains soil moisture (especially important in the first year)
• Suppresses weeds
• Protects roots from summer heat and winter frost
• As it slowly decomposes, provides extra nutrients

Use well‑rotted manure, compost, peat, leaf mould, or even grass clippings (Hessayon, 1993; Potapov et al., 2000). Apply a 5–8 cm layer, keeping it 5–10 cm away from the stem bases to avoid bark rotting.

In dry regions, black polyethylene film with slits for the plants is highly effective—it completely suppresses weeds and retains moisture—though organic mulch is still preferred for improving soil structure (Buckingham, 2010).

Quick planting checklist:

6.1. Watering in the First Year

Blackcurrants are moisture‑loving, and young, newly planted bushes have weak roots that can't draw water from deep soil layers. So regular watering in the first season is critical (Potapov et al., 2000).

Key rules:

• The soil around the root zone should be kept consistently moist, but not waterlogged.
• In dry weather, water young bushes 1–2 times a week, using 5–10 litres per plant (Buckingham, 2010).
• Watering is especially important during active shoot growth (May–June) and berry swelling (if fruiting begins in year two).
• Water in the morning or evening to allow water to soak in before heat and leaves to dry before night (reduces disease risk).

Important nuance: avoid both drought and waterlogging. Standing water around the roots is as dangerous as drought—it can cause root collar rot and kill the plant. On heavy clay soils, water less often but more deeply so water penetrates the root zone without pooling on the surface.

6.2. Cultivation and Weed Control

Weeds are the main competitors for moisture and nutrients. They can also harbour diseases and pests. Keeping the root zones and rows clean is essential for a successful start.

What to do:

• Regularly loosen the soil around the planting hole to a depth of 5–8 cm to break crust and improve air access to roots.
• Be careful not to damage shallow roots—blackcurrant roots lie close to the surface (Potapov et al., 2000).
• Remove weeds by hand, especially in the first year when root systems are still weak and deep cultivation could injure them.
• Avoid heavy tools (hoes, mattocks) too close to the stem—use hands or light cultivators.

If you mulched the planting hole with organic matter (see Section 5), cultivation and weeding in these zones are rarely needed—mulch naturally suppresses weeds and maintains soil structure. However, replenish mulch periodically and keep it away from the bark to avoid rot.

6.3. Fertilising in the First Year

If you filled the planting hole properly with organic matter and mineral fertilisers, no additional feeding is needed in the first year—plants have enough stored nutrition (Kurennoy et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

There is one exception: nitrogen fertilisers. Nitrogen stimulates shoot growth, which is especially important in the first year for rapid bush development. But apply it cautiously and only if you see weak shoot growth (less than 20–30 cm per season).

If you notice poor shoot development, you can give a liquid feed with manure tea (1 part manure to 10 parts water) or poultry manure (1:20) in early June, applying 3–5 litres per bush (Hessayon, 1993). Dry options include urea (15–20 g/m²) or ammonium nitrate (20–25 g), worked into the soil during cultivation.

Important: don't over‑feed young plants with nitrogen! Excess nitrogen causes overly lush growth; shoots may not mature before winter and can freeze. Better to under‑feed than over‑feed (Potapov et al., 2000).

6.4. Protection from Pests and Diseases

Young saplings are especially vulnerable to pests. The most dangerous in the first year are:

• Currant gall mite — attacks buds, which swell, become round, and look like tiny cabbage heads. Such buds don't open; shoots don't develop. Remove and burn infested buds (Hessayon, 1993).
• Aphids — especially the green currant aphid, which sucks sap from young leaves and shoots, causing distortion and stunting (Buckingham, 2010).
• Powdery mildew — appears as a white powdery coating on leaves and young shoots. Particularly dangerous in dense, poorly ventilated plantings.

Protection measures:

• Inspect plants carefully every 1–2 weeks.
• At the first signs of aphids or powdery mildew, treat with appropriate products—insecticides for aphids and fungicides for mildew. For amateur gardeners, biologicals (e.g., Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin) or home remedies (garlic infusion, tobacco dust) are suitable.
• If infestation is localised, pinch out and destroy aphid‑affected shoot tips.
• In winter, if saplings were planted in autumn, check for swollen buds (gall mite sign) and remove them before bud‑break in spring.

Regular monitoring and timely treatments will keep young plants healthy and vigorous.

6.5. Winter Preparation (for Autumn Plantings)

If you planted in autumn, helping bushes survive their first winter is especially important. Young, unestablished plants are more sensitive to frost than mature ones.

Winter preparation measures:

• After persistent cold weather sets in, but before the ground freezes solid, mound soil or compost around the base of each bush to a height of 10–15 cm to protect the root collar and lower shoots.
• Apply a 8–10 cm layer of mulch (peat, sawdust, dry leaves) around the planting hole for extra root protection.
• In low‑snow regions, place brushwood around bushes or set up snow‑fencing.
• If a very severe winter is forecast, you can cover bushes with non‑woven fabric (spunbond, agrospan), but not too tightly to avoid greenhouse effects during thaws.

In spring, after the threat of severe frost has passed, remove the mounding and extra covers, and spread the mulch evenly around the planting circle.

6.6. Quick First‑Year Care Checklist

Conclusion

Establishing a blackcurrant garden is a responsible task, but quite achievable even for a beginner gardener. The key is to follow a few core principles:

1. Choose the right timing (autumn for most regions, spring for harsh winters).

2. Buy healthy, certified planting stock with a well‑developed root system.

3. Plant deep and at an angle, and don't forget severe post‑planting pruning.

4. Ensure regular watering in the first year and protect from weeds.

5. Don't skimp on organic matter when filling holes, but avoid chlorine‑based fertilisers.

6. Inspect plants regularly for pests and diseases, especially gall mites and aphids.

By following these guidelines, you'll establish a garden that will reward you with abundant crops of fragrant, healthy berries for many years to come. Good luck!