Watering Tomatoes During Prolonged Rains: How to Save Your Crop from Overwatering

Oxygen Starvation of Roots

Tomato roots need oxygen for normal functioning. When soil is overwatered, the pores fill with water, displacing air. The roots begin to suffocate, and their absorption capacity drops sharply. Researchers note that when water and soil temperatures exceed 25 °C, the oxygen content in the solution falls to critical levels (Heuvelink, 2018). If water stagnation lasts more than 12 hours, roots start to die (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). The plant finds itself in a paradoxical situation: there is plenty of water around, but the roots cannot absorb it — physiological drought sets in, and the leaves begin to wilt.

Root and Crown Rot

In waterlogged soil, pathogens of root rot — fungi from the genera Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium — become active. They attack weakened roots and the lower part of the stem. The situation is especially dangerous when water stagnates around the root collar: tissues soften, turn black, and the plant dies. Balashev and Zeman (1981) noted that even short-term flooding causes root death in tomatoes, especially in hot weather when bacteria and fungi multiply most actively.

Late Blight – the Main Threat

Prolonged rains create ideal conditions for the development of late blight (Phytophthora infestans). For spores to germinate and infect the plant, droplet moisture on the leaves is required for several hours (Akhatov, 2010). Rain, fog, and dew are the main allies of this dangerous disease. Spores are spread by water droplets, and within 10–15 days the disease can destroy a significant part of the harvest, especially in film greenhouses and in open ground in cool climates.

Fruit Cracking

Excess water provokes rapid fruit growth. The skin cannot stretch fast enough, and cracks appear — first small ones around the stalk, then radial and concentric (Akhatov, 2010). Through the cracks, pathogens of grey mould, alternariosis, and bacterial diseases enter the fruit. Such fruits do not store well, quickly rot, and become unfit for consumption.

Deterioration of Fruit Quality

With excess moisture during ripening, the fruits become watery, with reduced dry matter and sugar content. Studies show that when soil moisture rises from 70% to 85% of full water capacity, the dry matter content in tomatoes decreases while acidity increases (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). The taste of the fruits deteriorates — they become bland.

Thus, prolonged rains are dangerous due to a combination of factors acting simultaneously. The gardener’s main task during this period is to minimise each of these risks.

When to Stop Watering Completely

If more than 20–30 mm of precipitation falls per day (roughly a bucket of water per square metre) and the rains continue for several days in a row, the soil becomes oversaturated with moisture. In such a situation, watering is not just useless — it is dangerous. It worsens oxygen starvation of the roots and promotes the development of rot (Torikov and Sychev, 2018). Do not water until the topsoil (at a depth of 10–15 cm) has dried out and becomes crumbly.

The same applies to tomatoes in greenhouses, especially if they are covered with film or glass. Rainwater does not get inside, but the high humidity in the greenhouse significantly reduces evaporation. Watering under such conditions only increases humidity and creates an ideal environment for late blight and grey mould (Akhatov, 2010). Therefore, in greenhouses during rainy periods, watering is completely stopped, and the main focus is on ventilation (more on this in Chapter 5).

When Watering Can Be Resumed

There are situations where complete cessation of watering is not required:

• Short-term rains (1–2 days). If the soil dries quickly after rain and the sun returns, you can resume your normal watering schedule, but reduce the volume by 20–30%.
• Rains that only moisten the top layer. If the precipitation was light and did not wet the soil to the depth of the main root mass (20–30 cm), and the forecast predicts dry weather — watering is needed, but the volume should be adjusted (Sweider et al., 1992).
• Signs of wilting. Sometimes in rainy weather, tomato leaves lose turgor and droop. Gardeners mistakenly take this for a lack of water and start watering. In fact, this is a symptom of oxygen starvation of the roots: the roots are suffocating, stop absorbing water, and the above-ground parts suffer from physiological drought (Akhatov, 2010). Watering here will only do harm. The correct action is loosening the soil to restore aeration (see Chapter 3).

How to Check Whether Watering Is Needed

The most reliable method is to manually check soil moisture at a depth of 10–15 cm (the zone of active absorbing roots). If a lump of soil squeezed in your fist releases water or is dense and wet — watering is not needed (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). If the soil crumbles and does not hold its shape — you can water, but moderately.

Quick rule: during prolonged rains — do not water. Give the soil and the plant a "rest". Remember: excess water is more dangerous than a deficit for tomatoes. It is better to underwater than to overwater.

Interactive Indicator: When to Water After Rains

Hover over the coloured zone to see a description of the soil condition and recommended actions. This test will help you make the right decision without error.

Hint: during prolonged rains, focus on the right (red) zone — watering is completely excluded, the main tasks are loosening and ventilation. Resume watering only when the soil returns to the yellow or green zone.

Step 1. Check the Soil

First, assess how deeply the soil has been soaked. Take a handful of soil from a depth of 10–15 cm (where the bulk of the tomato’s absorbing roots are) and squeeze it:

• The lump does not crumble, and water oozes between your fingers — the soil is oversaturated. No watering; wait for it to dry over 3–5 days.
• The lump holds its shape but is not sticky — moisture is high but not critical. Normal watering is not yet needed, but you can start loosening.
• The lump crumbles — the soil is already drying out; you can prepare to resume watering (see Chapter 8).

At the same time, inspect the base of the stems: if you see darkening, "constrictions", or softening of tissues — these are signs of root rot. If you spot them, remove the diseased plants immediately (Sweider et al., 1992).

Step 2. Loosen the Soil – This Is the Most Important Step!

As soon as the soil condition allows (it no longer sticks to the tool), immediately loosen the soil to a depth of 5–8 cm in the root zones and between rows. This is a critically important technique: loosening breaks the soil crust, restores air exchange, and accelerates the evaporation of excess moisture (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). The roots start to "breathe", and leaf turgor returns.

Loosen carefully, trying not to damage the superficial roots, which may be weakened. On heavy clay soils, be especially thorough, as crust forms faster and lasts longer. After loosening, it is helpful to mulch (with dry grass or straw) to prevent the soil from overheating and forming a new crust later.

Step 3. Remove Lower Leaves and Damaged Shoots

The rains have created ideal conditions for fungi, and the lower leaves that lie on or touch the soil are the main route of infection. Remove all leaves that have yellowed, become spotted, as well as the lower leaves up to the first flower cluster (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016). This improves air circulation and speeds up drying of the bush after rain.

Also remove all suckers if you have not done so before — they thicken the canopy, trap moisture, and hinder ventilation. Work in dry morning hours so that the wounds have time to dry by evening — this reduces the risk of grey mould infection (Akhatov, 2010).

Step 4. Ventilate the Greenhouse – Even at the Cost of a Small Draft

For greenhouse tomatoes, this is mandatory. Open all vents, doors, and raise side walls. Humidity in the greenhouse after rain can reach 90–95%, which is catastrophically dangerous for flowering, pollination, and especially for the development of late blight and grey mould (Heuvelink, 2018). Constant air movement is the best defence.

If the greenhouse is equipped with a drip irrigation system, turn it off during rains and increase ventilation. If not, at least leave doors ajar and ventilate throughout the daylight hours, even on cloudy days. Studies show that air over‑humidification in greenhouses for even 7–10 days can cause massive damage by ascochyta blight and other fungal diseases (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).

Bonus: If Rains Continue

If the rains do not stop and the forecast is gloomy, act proactively: stretch transparent film over the beds (as a canopy) to divert at least some of the precipitation. In greenhouses — do not close the doors at night if temperatures allow. Dryness in the root zone and air movement are your main allies.

Main takeaway: after rains, act quickly but without panic. Loosening and ventilation are the two pillars of crop rescue. Delay them for a few days, and late blight will most likely be the first to announce itself.

Why Cracks Appear

Tomato skin is elastic but not infinitely so. When, after a dry period or simply due to excess moisture in the soil, the plant suddenly receives a lot of water, the flesh cells swell rapidly, and the skin cannot stretch fast enough — tears occur.

Main reasons (Balashev and Zeman, 1981; Akhatov, 2010):

• Sharp fluctuations in soil moisture. After a long dry spell, heavy watering or heavy rain causes rapid fruit growth — the skin cracks.
• Prolonged rains without drying. Moisture enters continuously, fruit growth accelerates — the skin experiences excessive pressure.
• Late watering (evening or night). If the soil remains wet after watering and evaporation is minimal at night, the pressure in fruit tissues stays high — increasing the risk of cracks.
• Genetic predisposition. Large-fruited and multi-chamber varieties crack more often than small-fruited and plum‑shaped ones; varieties with thin skin are at higher risk (Sweider et al., 1992).

There are two main types of cracks: radial (spreading from the stalk to the apex) and concentric (ring‑like around the stalk). Both types make the fruit unsuitable for storage and reduce its nutritional value — ascorbic acid is destroyed through the ruptures (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

How to Reduce the Risk of Cracking

It is difficult to completely avoid cracks during prolonged rains, but you can significantly reduce their number and depth.

What to Do If Cracks Have Already Appeared

• Immediately collect cracked fruits — they will not ripen properly and will become a source of infection for neighbours.
• Healthy fruits that have not yet cracked can be lightly shaded (with agro‑fabric, branches) — this reduces sharp temperature and humidity fluctuations on the fruit surface.
• Increase ventilation (especially in greenhouses) — rapid drying of fruits after rain reduces the risk of rot developing in cracks.

Remember: a crack is a wound. The faster its surface dries, the less chance pathogens have to penetrate inside. Dryness and air movement are the best "medicines" for damaged fruits.

Why Air Humidity Is So Dangerous

At relative humidity above 80–85%:

• late blight spores germinate and infect leaves within 4–6 hours (Akhatov, 2010);
• tomato pollen becomes sticky and heavy, pollination worsens — fewer ovaries set, fruits develop poorly (Heuvelink, 2018);
• grey mould (Botrytis cinerea) develops rapidly on wounded tissues, especially in dense plantings (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).

In open ground, air humidity is regulated by nature, but we can influence the microclimate around plants. In greenhouses, however, humidity control is entirely in the hands of the gardener — and that is a major advantage that should not be missed.

How to Reduce Air Humidity in a Greenhouse

How to Reduce Air Humidity in Open Ground

In open fields, possibilities are limited, but there are proven agronomic practices:

When Humidity Becomes Critical

Look for simple signs:

• Condensation on fruits and leaves in the morning — a signal that air humidity exceeds 90–95%. This is a critical level for disease development.
• Fogging of glass or film inside the greenhouse — the first sign that ventilation is insufficient.
• Slow drying of the soil — water does not evaporate, meaning air humidity is high.

If you notice these signs, act immediately: increase ventilation, reduce watering, loosen the soil.

Brief Summary

In rainy weather, the main thing in a greenhouse is air movement. Open doors and vents, ventilate even on cloudy days. In open ground, improve aeration through loosening, pruning, and staking. Dry foliage and good air circulation are the best prevention against fungal epidemics. Remember: late blight "loves" stagnation and stillness; your task is to make it as uncomfortable as possible for the fungus.

Why Remove Leaves in Rainy Periods

Removing some leaves in wet weather serves three purposes (Akhatov, 2010; Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016):

1. Improve ventilation. Dense foliage traps moisture, creates stagnant zones — ideal conditions for late blight, grey mould, and other fungi.

2. Accelerate drying. The fewer leaves, the faster moisture evaporates from the remaining ones — reducing infection risk.

3. Redirect nutrition to fruits. By removing "extra" leaves, we redirect assimilates to ripening fruits, which is especially important when root nutrition is impaired due to over‑wetting (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

But it is important not to overdo it: leaves are "factories" producing sugars and organic substances. If you remove too many, fruits will not receive enough nutrition, become small and sour (Sweider et al., 1992).

Which Leaves Must Be Removed

Which Leaves Should Not Be Removed

When and How to Remove Leaves

• In dry, sunny weather — in the morning or daytime, so that wounds dry by evening. In wet weather, wounds heal slowly and become "entry gates" for infections (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• Remove no more than 2–3 leaves at a time. This does not traumatise the plant. If more need to be removed, spread it over 2–3 days, starting from the bottom.
• Do not tear off, cut off! It is better to use pruners or a knife to avoid bark tears and long‑healing wounds. Disinfect tools (with alcohol or a weak potassium permanganate solution) when moving from one bush to another — especially if you notice signs of disease (Akhatov, 2010).

Common Mistakes

• Removing all lower leaves at once. This is a severe stress for the plant; it may drop ovaries and stop growing.
• Leaving suckers for later. In wet weather, they grow quickly and create "jungle" — an ideal environment for late blight.
• Removing leaves above upper clusters. This deprives fruits of nutrition — they remain small and fail to fill properly.

Main rule: remove foliage so that after pruning the bush remains well‑ventilated and "transparent" when held up to the light. Sunlight should penetrate inside the canopy. If you see that moisture is stagnating inside and there is no air movement — that means there are still too many leaves. But do not rush — it is better to remove a little less than to overdo it. The plant needs to recover, and in rainy periods this happens more slowly.

What Is Breaker‑Stage Ripeness and Why It Matters

Phenology of ripening in truss cherry tomato in open ground

Clusters of cherry tomatoes on one truss, showing successive stages of ripeness from milk‑green to deep red and orange.

Tomatoes have several stages of ripeness: green, mature‑green, breaker (blush), pink, and red (full). Breaker‑stage ripeness is the stage when the fruit has reached full size, started to lighten, but has not yet turned red. Brownish or yellowish spots appear on its surface, the seeds are already formed and surrounded by gelatinous tissue (Sweider et al., 1992).

The main property of breaker fruits is that they can continue ripening after harvest, and the quality of such fruits (taste, aroma, sugar content) is almost as good as that of vine‑ripened fruits (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). This gives us a unique opportunity: to remove fruits from the field or greenhouse at the peak of danger, preserving the harvest, and let them ripen in safe conditions.

Why Now – Five Reasons Not to Delay

1. Breaker fruits are the main target of late blight. Late blight attacks not only leaves but also green and breaker fruits. On breaker fruits, symptoms appear especially quickly — within 5–7 days after infection (Akhatov, 2010). If you harvest them in time, the disease will not have time to spread to them.

2. Reducing the load on the plant. In rainy weather, roots work less effectively, nutrition is impaired. Removing breaker fruits reduces the load on the root system and redirects remaining resources to green fruits that are not yet ready for harvest (Sweider et al., 1992).

3. Stopping the spread of infection. Breaker fruits often already have micro‑damages (insect traces, micro‑cracks) through which infection easily enters. If left on the bush, they become a source of spores for neighbouring fruits.

4. Reducing cracking. Breaker fruits have already slowed their growth but will continue to take up water — and crack. It is better to remove them now than to lose them completely later (Akhatov, 2010).

5. Making room for ventilation. Removing fruits improves air circulation — the bush becomes more open, reducing humidity inside the canopy (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).

When Exactly to Harvest – Guidelines

• At the first signs of late blight on leaves (brown spots with a pale halo) — immediately harvest all fruits that have reached breaker stage.
• If prolonged rains are forecast — if you know that rains will last several days, it is better to pick breaker fruits in advance, even if they have not fully "coloured".
• At temperatures above 25 °C and high humidity — these conditions are maximally favourable for late blight; harvesting must be prompt.

The optimal harvest time is the morning after rain, when fruits have dried but have not yet heated up in the sun. If harvesting is done during rainy periods, the fruits must be dried before being placed for ripening.

How to Harvest – Simple Rules

• With or without the stalk? If the variety separates easily (there is an abscission zone) — harvest with calyxes. If not — carefully break off, trying not to damage the skin. Damaged fruits do not store (Sweider et al., 1992).
• No impacts or squeezing! Breaker fruits are still tender; bruises quickly rot. Use baskets or buckets with a soft bottom (line with cloth). Better to collect in one or two layers, not pile them high.
• Sort immediately. Separate fruits with cracks, spots, or other damage — they will not ripen and should be used immediately for processing.

What to Do with Harvested Fruits – Ripening

Breaker fruits ripen at 20–25 °C and 80–85% humidity. Under these conditions, they turn red in 4–7 days (sooner at 25 °C, later at 20 °C). The main condition — do not store them in plastic bags without air access: rot will start (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Methods of ripening:

• In a dry, warm room (pantry, veranda) — spread fruits in a single layer on shelves or in cardboard boxes, without covering.
• In paper bags — 3–5 fruits per bag. Ethylene released by the fruits inside the bag accelerates ripening (but do not pack too tightly to avoid provoking rot).
• Using ethylene — if possible, place a ripe apple or banana with the breaker fruits; they release ethylene and speed up the process (advanced method).

Important: regularly inspect fruits, remove any that are rotting. The optimal storage temperature for fully ripe fruits is 2–4 °C, but breaker fruits should not be kept in the cold — their ripening will stop (Sweider et al., 1992).

Which Fruits Should Not Be Harvested

• Completely green, underdeveloped fruits. They will not ripen — remain hard and tasteless. Better to leave them on the bush, even if there is a risk of late blight — they may have time to fill and reach breaker stage in 3–5 days of dry weather.
• Fruits with signs of blossom‑end rot (brown, sunken spot at the apex) — they do not ripen and rot quickly. Discard them immediately (Akhatov, 2010).
• Cracked fruits — they can only be used immediately or for processing. They do not store and do not ripen further.

Main Rule

In rainy periods, do not wait for full ripeness. Breaker fruits are your "reserve harvest". Harvest them, let them ripen in a dry place, and save the plant for the fruits that are still growing. During a late‑blight epidemic, this strategy allows you to save up to 70–80% of the crop even in unfavourable years.

The Main Criterion – Soil Condition

Watering can be resumed only when the soil at a depth of 10–15 cm has dried sufficiently. The simplest and most reliable check is by hand:

• Take a lump of soil from a depth of 10–15 cm and squeeze it in your fist.
• If the lump crumbles under light pressure — the soil is ready for watering.
• If it holds its shape but does not stain your hands — there is still enough moisture; watering can be postponed for 1–2 days.
• If water oozes out or the lump is dense and sticky — it is too early to water; wait another 2–3 days (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

On average, after heavy prolonged rains on loamy soils, the top layer reaches the right condition in 4–6 days after the end of precipitation. On light sandy soils — in 2–3 days. The exact timing depends on air temperature, wind, and soil structure.

How to Resume Watering – Gradually, Without Sharp Fluctuations

The main danger when resuming watering is a sudden change in moisture. If, after a long break, you pour a large amount of water, it will trigger rapid fruit growth and massive cracking (Akhatov, 2010). Therefore, you must act carefully.

1. Start with a small amount — about 3–5 litres per bush (instead of the usual 8–10 L) and split this volume into 2–3 applications during the day (morning, midday, evening) so that moisture is absorbed gradually.

2. For the first 2–3 waterings, apply only to the root. Avoid overhead irrigation and wetting the leaves — they have not yet recovered from the high‑humidity period, and wet leaves could trigger a fungal outbreak (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

3. Gradually increase the amount — by 1–2 litres per watering each time until you return to the normal regime.

4. Reduce frequency in the beginning. Instead of watering every other day, water every 2–3 days, allowing the soil to dry between waterings. This stimulates the growth of new absorbing roots and strengthens the plant (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).

What to Know About Water Temperature

Water for irrigation should be warm — not below 20–22 °C. Cold water after a rainy period, when the soil has not yet warmed up, causes stress to the root system, weakens the plant, and promotes root rot (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). If possible, let water stand in barrels in the sun for at least a day before watering.

Specifics for Greenhouses

In greenhouses, returning to watering requires particular caution, because air humidity remains high for a long time even if the soil dries. Therefore, in greenhouses:

• Start watering 1–2 days later than in open ground — give the air time to dry.
• Do the first waterings only in the morning so that excess moisture evaporates by night and plants dry off (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).
• Continue actively ventilating the greenhouse throughout the day after each watering to reduce air humidity.
• Check air humidity: if, when the greenhouse is closed, condensation appears on the film or glass — watering was too abundant or too early; reduce the amount and increase ventilation.

How to Know That Watering Is Needed Right Now

Besides the lump test, look at the plants:

• Leaves begin to lose turgor, slightly droop during hot hours — the first signal that watering is needed.
• Leaf edges dry out, curl — a sign of moisture deficit.
• Slowed growth and fruit filling — another reason to check soil moisture.

But remember: with over‑wetting, leaves may also droop (due to oxygen starvation of roots). So always check the soil first, then decide. Never water just because "it’s time" or "that’s how we always do it" — only based on actual drying (Sweider et al., 1992).

What Not to Do

• Return to normal watering immediately after the rain stops. This provokes cracking and a return of diseases.
• Water "just in case". Being over‑cautious is more dangerous than underwatering.
• Combine watering with fertilising in the first days. Roots are weakened and fertilisers may burn them. Fertilising should be postponed for 7–10 days after resuming watering and start with small doses.
• Loosen and water on the same day. First loosen, wait a day — then water. This improves water and air penetration (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Golden rule: after rains, it is better to underwater than to overwater. Plants recover faster from slight drying than from repeated over‑wetting. Start cautiously, observe the plants’ reaction, and adjust your schedule according to the weather.

Mistake 1. Continuing to Water "on Schedule"

This is the most dangerous and widespread blunder. Many gardeners keep watering tomatoes strictly by the calendar — once every 5–7 days — ignoring heavy rainfall. As a result, the soil becomes oversaturated, roots suffocate, and rot sets in.

Correct approach: check soil moisture by hand before each watering (Chapter 2). During rainy periods, stop watering completely and resume only after the top 10–15 cm of soil has dried (Balashev and Zeman, 1981; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Mistake 2. Waiting for the Rains to "End by Themselves"

Some gardeners assume that plants will "get used to" the dampness and cope on their own. This is a serious misconception. Late blight develops in a matter of days, and lost time results in massive leaf and fruit death.

Correct approach: act as soon as rains persist for 2–3 days. Loosening, removing lower leaves, and ventilating the greenhouse — all must be done without delay (Akhatov, 2010; Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).

Mistake 3. Completely Ignoring Leaf Removal

Fear of "stripping" the bush often leads gardeners not to remove lower and diseased leaves. As a result, the canopy becomes a hothouse — wet, warm, with no air movement. This is ideal for all kinds of fungal diseases.

Correct approach: remove all leaves touching the ground, all yellow and spotted leaves, and suckers that thicken the bush. In rainy periods, do this more actively than usual, but no more than 2–3 leaves at a time (Sweider et al., 1992).

Mistake 4. Removing Too Many Leaves at Once

The opposite extreme. In an effort to "thin out" the bush, gardeners remove 5–6 leaves in one session — the plant suffers severe stress, drops ovaries, and fruits stop filling. This is especially dangerous in wet weather when recovery is slow.

Correct approach: remove no more than 2–3 leaves at a time. Spread the process over several days, starting from the bottom, and only in dry weather (morning or daytime) so wounds can dry (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Mistake 5. Neglecting Greenhouse Ventilation

In rainy weather, many keep greenhouses tightly closed to "keep the plants dry". This leads to air humidity of 90–95% and condensation, which inevitably triggers late blight and grey mould. Even in greenhouses with drip irrigation, humidity remains high due to soil evaporation.

Correct approach: ventilate the greenhouse constantly — open vents, doors, raise side walls. In rainy weather, do this even more often than in dry weather. Dryness and air movement are the best disease prevention (Kotov and Adritskaya, 2016).

Mistake 6. Not Harvesting Breaker Fruits on Time

Some gardeners leave breaker fruits on the bush so they can "ripen naturally", hoping the rains will soon end. As a result, they either become infected with late blight, crack from excess moisture, or rot right on the bush.

Correct approach: harvest breaker fruits at the very beginning of the rainy period. They ripen perfectly in a dry place. The remaining green fruits will receive more nutrition and can grow and ripen after the rains end (Akhatov, 2010).

Mistake 7. Resuming Watering Abruptly with a Large Volume

After a week without watering, gardeners often pour 10–15 litres per bush, trying to "make up for losses". This is guaranteed to cause fruit cracking and may trigger a return of rot.

Correct approach: resume watering gradually: the first 2–3 waterings – 3–5 litres, split into 2–3 applications during the day. Gradually increase the amount by 1–2 litres per watering until you reach the normal regime (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Mistake 8. Not Disinfecting Tools

In rainy periods, infections spread instantly. Pruning leaves or harvesting with contaminated secateurs or knives is a direct way to transfer late blight and bacterial diseases from sick to healthy plants.

Correct approach: after working with each bush, especially if you notice signs of disease, wipe the blades with alcohol, vodka, or a weak potassium permanganate solution. For fruit pickers — wash hands and change gloves when working in wet conditions (Akhatov, 2010).

Mistake 9. Applying Fertiliser Immediately After Rains

Many gardeners think that after rains nutrients have been leached out and they need to "feed" the plants. But the roots are weakened by over‑wetting, they absorb mineral salts poorly, and fertilisers can burn damaged roots.

Correct approach: wait 7–10 days after resuming normal watering, give the root system time to recover. Start fertilising with half the dose and only after you see signs of active growth — new leaves appearing, fruit growth resuming (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Mistake 10. Watering with Cold Water from a Well or Borehole

During rainy periods, the soil often cools down. Watering with cold water sharply lowers root‑zone temperature, inhibits roots, stops water and nutrient uptake. This leads to wilting and may provoke root rot.

Correct approach: use only warm, settled water (temperature not below 20 °C). If possible, keep the water tank in the sun — this is especially important in cool and rainy weather (Sweider et al., 1992).