Preparing the Soil

Why Is Cabbage So Demanding? The Link Between Root System and Fertility

The root system of cabbage, especially when grown from transplants, has a particular trait: it is fibrous, highly branched, but rather shallow. The bulk of the roots are concentrated in the topsoil layer at a depth of 20–30 cm (Nonnecke, 1989; Welbaum, 2015). Unlike crops with taproots that can extract moisture and nutrients from deeper layers, cabbage cannot "reach" them. It takes everything it needs from the volume of soil directly beneath it.

At the same time, the plant expends a huge amount of energy and nutrients to form a single dense head. In terms of nutrient uptake, cabbage surpasses almost all other vegetable crops (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). Imagine: to grow an impressive head, cabbage needs to continuously absorb nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients in large quantities. If these are lacking in the topsoil, the plant will starve, and we will get neither a powerful leaf rosette nor a firm head.

The Role of Steady Nutrition and Moisture

Cabbage is a crop of "continuous growth." It does not need pauses. Any stress, whether a lack of nutrients or drying out of the soil, immediately affects the yield.

• Nutrition: As soon as plants begin to actively grow leaves, they require large amounts of nitrogen (N). When head formation begins, phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) come to the fore (Startsev, 2021). Unbalanced nutrition will cause cabbage either to "luxuriate," growing huge leaves at the expense of the head, or fail to form a dense, firm head.
• Moisture: Due to its large leaf surface, cabbage transpires enormous amounts of water — up to 10 litres per day in hot weather (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). It is very demanding of moisture, and stability is critically important. Sharp fluctuations from drought to heavy watering or rain are one of the main causes of head cracking.

Conclusion: The main requirement of cabbage for the soil can be formulated as follows: it must be a fertile, loose, and moisture-retentive "layer cake" in the topsoil, where roots can easily and uninterruptedly obtain nutrients and water throughout the season. Creating such conditions is the primary task of soil preparation for this crop.

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Light and Photosynthesis

Cabbage is a long‑day plant, and for normal growth and development it requires plenty of light. This is one of the key factors determining yield. With insufficient light:

• Plants become leggy, weak, and more susceptible to diseases.
• Photosynthesis slows down, meaning plants cannot accumulate enough carbohydrates to form a dense head.
• Heads form loose, small, and often fail to set at all (Autko et al., 2012).

That is why the cabbage plot must be open and well‑lit by the sun for at least 6–8 hours a day (Nonnecke, 1989; Welbaum, 2015). Do not plant cabbage in the shade of buildings, fences, or under tree canopies. Even light shading during the day, especially in the first half, will significantly reduce the yield.

Protection from Overheating and Desiccation

Although cabbage loves sun, in hot climates excessive heat and scorching rays can become stressful for it. At temperatures above 25–30 °C, cabbage growth slows down, and combined with moisture deficit, it may stop developing altogether. Leaves become coarse, and head formation is delayed (Autko et al., 2012).

Therefore, when choosing a site, prefer areas protected from drying and hot winds. Good protection can be provided by:

• Natural barriers: gentle slopes, especially southern and south‑western, which warm up better while being sheltered from northern winds.
• Windbreaks: rows of tall crops (sunflower, maize) or hedges that will shade the plantings during the hottest hours and reduce wind speed.

Remember that wind protection also reduces moisture evaporation from leaf surfaces, helping cabbage endure dry periods more easily.

Wind Regime

Strong wind not only dries out the soil and plants but can also mechanically damage leaves, especially at the transplant stage. Damaged leaves are open gates for infections. Moreover, on well‑ventilated sites it is harder to maintain stable soil and air humidity, which is crucial for cabbage (Welbaum, 2015). A wind‑protected location is the key to a stable and high yield.

Choosing Predecessors: Crop Rotation Rules

This is perhaps one of the most important agronomic practices. Cabbage and other crops of the family Brassicaceae — broccoli, cauliflower, radish, turnip, kohlrabi — are affected by the same diseases and pests that accumulate in the soil. The main enemies that remain in the ground from season to season are clubroot (caused by the fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae), blackleg, and various bacterioses.

Rule: Return cabbage to the same spot no earlier than after 3–4 years, and if clubroot is detected — no earlier than after 5–7 years (Nonnecke, 1989; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

Suitable and Unsuitable Predecessors

Good predecessors — crops after which the soil remains loose, fertile, and free of weeds:

• Legumes (peas, beans, broad beans) — they enrich the soil with nitrogen.
• Cucurbits (cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin) — they usually receive plenty of organic matter and share no common diseases with cabbage.
• Solanaceous crops (tomato, potato, pepper) — also good predecessors.
• Onions and root vegetables (carrots, beets) — they have different root systems and do not deplete the soil as much as cabbage.

Bad predecessors — any crops from the Brassicaceae family:

• White cabbage, red cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi.
• Radish, turnip, black radish, daikon.
• Leaf mustards and other cruciferous green manures (e.g., white mustard or oilseed radish) — although they are useful for soil health, cabbage cannot be planted after them.

This simple but effective technique (crop rotation) is far more reliable than any fungicides in disease control and allows you to obtain a healthy, high‑quality harvest.

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Optimal Structure: Looseness and Aeration

The cabbage root system is sensitive to soil density. In dense, compacted soil, roots suffocate, develop poorly, and cannot efficiently absorb water and nutrients. The main criterion for good soil is a loose, fine‑crumb structure, especially in the top, arable layer.

Such a structure provides:

• Good aeration — oxygen access to roots, necessary for respiration and nutrient uptake.
• Unhindered root growth — roots easily penetrate the soil, exploring a large volume.
• Normal water regime — loose soil absorbs and retains moisture well but does not become waterlogged (Nonnecke, 1989; Welbaum, 2015).

Ideal Soil Types: Loams and Sandy Loams

The best soils for cabbage are cultivated loamy and sandy‑loam soils. Why these?

• Loams are the golden mean. They are sufficiently fertile, retain moisture and nutrients well, yet have good structure and drainage. On such soils, cabbage develops powerfully and gives high yields.
• Sandy loams are lighter soils. They warm up faster, which is especially valuable for early harvests. However, they have one drawback — they hold moisture and nutrients less well. On sandy loams, especially in dry years, cabbage will need more frequent watering and feeding (Nonnecke, 1989; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

The choice between loam and sandy loam often depends on the region and climate. In areas with cool, wet summers, sandy loams have the advantage because they warm up faster. In arid regions, on the other hand, moisture‑retentive loams are preferable.

Working with Problematic Soils

What if your plot does not have ideal loam but heavy clay or, conversely, light sand? The answer is improvement!

Heavy clay soils have poor structure, tend to crust and compact, warm up slowly, and allow little air through. To improve them, you need to:

• Apply organic matter — compost, manure humus, and green manures (e.g., winter rye). Organic matter "loosens" clay, making it more friable and water‑permeable.
• Add coarse sand or perlite — this creates a framework that improves structure and drainage.
• Deep autumn ploughing — helps break up dense layers, improve aeration, and promote frost loosening in winter.

Sandy soils are the opposite extreme. They are poor in nutrients and hold moisture poorly. To improve them:

• Apply plenty of organic matter (compost, manure humus) — it acts like a sponge, holding moisture and nutrients in the root zone. The more organic matter, the better.
• Add clay or bentonite — increases water‑holding capacity and fertility of sandy soils.
• Use mulching — a mulch layer prevents rapid evaporation from the surface (Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

Lowland peat soils are excellent if cultivated. They are rich in organic matter, moisture‑retentive, and air‑permeable. However, they often have high acidity and a deficiency of micronutrients (especially copper and boron), which requires correction (Autko et al., 2012).

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Optimal pH for Cabbage

Most sources agree that the optimal pH range for white cabbage is between 6.0 and 7.0 (Nonnecke, 1989; Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). Some authors allow a slight spread — from 6.0 to 7.5 (Nonnecke, 1989), but overall cabbage prefers neutral or slightly alkaline soils.

Why Is Acidic Soil Dangerous? The Main Enemy — Clubroot

The main reason cabbage does not tolerate acidic soils is clubroot pathogen (Plasmodiophora brassicae). This dangerous fungal parasite infects the root system of cabbage and other crucifers, causing ugly swellings and galls on the roots. As a result:

• Roots cannot absorb water and nutrients normally.
• Plants appear stunted and lag in growth.
• Leaves lose turgor, wilt even with sufficient watering.
• Heads do not set or form small and loose.

Clubroot develops and multiplies only in acidic environments. Fungal spores germinate at pH below 6.5, and the most favourable conditions for infection occur at pH 5.5–6.0 (Autko et al., 2012; Startsev, 2021). If the soil is acidic, the risk of clubroot disease increases many times over. And this is not just a yield loss — clubroot spores can persist in the soil for up to 7 years, making it impossible to return cabbage to that plot for a long time.

Important: Clubroot affects not only cabbage but also other cruciferous crops (radish, turnip, broccoli, mustard) and many weeds from this family (e.g., shepherd's purse). Therefore, combating acidity is also a prevention of clubroot.

Other Problems of Acidic Soils

Besides clubroot, high acidity directly affects the availability of nutrients to plants:

1. Phosphorus (P): In acidic soils, phosphorus is bound into unavailable compounds (with aluminium and iron). Cabbage begins to experience phosphorus starvation, inhibiting root growth and head formation.

2. Molybdenum (Mo): Molybdenum availability drops sharply at pH below 5.5. Molybdenum deficiency in cabbage manifests as a characteristic symptom — "whiptail": leaf blades fail to develop, and the leaf resembles a thin whip (Nonnecke, 1989; Welbaum, 2015).

3. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg): In acidic soils, these elements are leached and become less available to roots.

4. Aluminium and manganese: In acidic environments, these elements transform into toxic forms for plants and can cause root poisoning.

When and How to Lime

If soil analysis shows pH below 6.0, liming must be carried out — the application of materials containing calcium and magnesium to neutralise acidity.

Optimal timing: Liming is best done in autumn, under the main tillage. Over winter, lime will react with the soil, and by spring the pH will stabilise. If you missed autumn, lime can be applied in spring, but 2–3 weeks before planting (Autko et al., 2012).

Choice of material:

• Dolomite limestone (dolomitic flour) — the preferred option because, besides calcium, it contains magnesium, which is also important for cabbage and often deficient in light soils (Nonnecke, 1989).
• Slaked lime (hydrated lime) — acts faster but requires care during application.
• Ground chalk — also a good option.

Application rates: The exact dosage depends on initial pH and soil type (less is needed on light soils, more on heavy). On average, for sod‑podzolic loams, 2.5–4 t/ha (250–400 g/m²) is recommended; for sandy loams — 2–3 t/ha (200–300 g/m²) (Autko et al., 2012).

How to apply: Lime materials should be evenly spread over the soil surface and thoroughly mixed with the top layer during digging or cultivation.

Important caution: Do not apply lime simultaneously with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones (ammonium nitrate, urea) — this may lead to nitrogen loss as ammonia. First carry out liming, and after 2–3 weeks apply fertilizer.

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Why Does Cabbage Need Organic Matter So Much?

Cabbage is a crop with high nutrient and water consumption. Organic matter performs several critically important functions here:

1. Improving soil structure. Humus is the "glue" that binds fine soil particles into water‑stable crumbs (aggregates). In such structured soil, cabbage roots easily penetrate deeper, receive enough oxygen, and water and nutrients do not stagnate or leach out. This is especially important for loams and clays, which without organic matter tend to crust and compact (Welbaum, 2015).

2. Increasing water‑holding capacity. Organic matter acts like a sponge: it can hold 4–5 times more water compared to its weight. On sandy soils, this helps combat drying; on loams, it creates a moisture reserve that roots can tap during dry periods. This directly relates to cabbage's need for stable moisture (Nonnecke, 1989).

3. Source of slow‑release nutrition. Humus is not just "feed" for plants, but a storehouse of nutrients. Microorganisms gradually decompose organic matter, releasing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients in forms available to roots. This ensures continuous, balanced nutrition throughout the season, avoiding sharp salt concentration spikes that are dangerous for cabbage (Autko et al., 2012; Welbaum, 2015).

4. Improving air regime. Loose, humus‑rich soil is well aerated, promoting the development of a strong root system and activity of beneficial soil microorganisms.

Best Sources of Organic Matter: Compost, Manure Humus, Green Manures

The gardener has several effective ways to increase organic matter content in the soil.

• Compost. This is the "black gold" of the garden — the result of decomposing plant and kitchen waste. It is the safest and most balanced type of organic fertilizer. Compost not only enriches the soil with humus but also improves its structure and activates soil microflora. For cabbage, this is an ideal option (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).
• Manure humus (well‑rotted manure). Manure that has aged for at least 1.5–2 years and turned into a loose, dark, earthy mass without a sharp odour. It is a concentrated source of nutrients, often applied under digging at 40–60 t/ha (4–6 kg/m²). It is manure humus, not fresh manure, that is a reliable and safe fertilizer for cabbage (Welbaum, 2015; Autko et al., 2012).
• Green manures ("green fertilisers"). These are plants sown on the plot and later incorporated into the soil. This is an excellent way to restore fertility without importing organic matter. For cabbage, ideal green manure predecessors are legumes (lupin, vetch, peas) — they enrich the soil with nitrogen. Winter cereals (rye, oats) structure the soil well, but their main advantage is weed suppression. Important: do not use mustard or oilseed radish as green manure before cabbage — they belong to the same family (crucifers) and can accumulate diseases (Nonnecke, 1989).
• Peat. Lowland peat can be used as an organic amendment, especially on light sandy soils, to increase their water‑holding capacity. However, it is poor in nutrients and often acidic, so it should be composted or limed (Autko et al., 2012).

When and How to Apply Organic Matter

• Best time: For white cabbage, organic matter is best applied in autumn, under autumn ploughing or deep digging. Over winter, it will partially decompose, and by spring the soil will be "charged" with nutrients (Welbaum, 2015; Autko et al., 2012).
• Application rates: The usual recommended dose for moderately cultivated soils is 40 to 60 t/ha (4–6 kg/m²) of manure humus or compost (Nonnecke, 1989; Autko et al., 2012). On poor soils, the rate can be increased to 80–100 t/ha. But remember that excess organic matter, especially not fully decomposed, can be harmful.

Caution: Fresh Manure

This is one of the most widespread and dangerous myths. Fresh manure is categorically not recommended to be applied immediately before planting cabbage (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003; Autko et al., 2012). Why?

1. Root burn. Fresh manure contains large amounts of active ammonia and organic acids that can burn young roots.

2. Weed seeds. Fresh manure contains an enormous number of weed seeds.

3. Diseases and pests. Fresh manure is an ideal environment for plant pathogens, including clubroot and root rot pathogens.

4. Nutrient imbalance. During decomposition of fresh manure, nitrogen is actively consumed from the soil, which may be insufficient for plants. This phenomenon is called "nitrogen immobilisation" and leads to cabbage starvation.

Rule: Apply only well‑rotted manure (humus) or compost. Fresh manure may only be applied in autumn under the preceding crop (e.g., cucumber or potato), but not directly before cabbage.

Conclusion: Organic matter is not just "food" for cabbage. It is the basis of a healthy, living soil capable of producing abundant harvests. Regular application of compost, manure humus, and green manures is the main path to maintaining its fertility.

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Autumn Preparation: The Foundation for the Future Harvest

Autumn tillage is the most important and responsible stage. It is in autumn that we lay the foundation of fertility for the next season.

Main tasks of autumn preparation:

1. Application of organic fertilizers. Autumn is the ideal time for applying manure humus, compost, or manure (only well‑rotted!). Over winter, they will partially decompose and mix evenly with the soil. By spring, the organic matter will turn into available humus (Autko et al., 2012; Welbaum, 2015).

2. Deep ploughing or digging. The main tillage for cabbage is done to a depth of 25–30 cm (Nonnecke, 1989; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). Why is this needed?

• Loosening the subsoil layer. Cabbage roots penetrate to a depth of up to 1 metre, and a loose lower layer allows them to grow freely and extract moisture.
• Improvement of water‑air regime. Deep tillage makes the soil more porous, improving root aeration and water infiltration.
• Weed and pest control. Turning the soil buries weed seeds deep (where they will not germinate) and destroys overwintering stages of pests and pathogens (Welbaum, 2015).

4. Perennial weed control. If the plot has couch grass, sow‑thistle, or other rhizomatous weeds, they must be destroyed before main ploughing. An effective method is treatment with non‑selective herbicides (e.g., glyphosate‑based) 2–3 weeks before digging. Double disking with disc harrows to a depth of 6–8 cm and 10–12 cm, followed by deep ploughing, also helps (Autko et al., 2012; Welbaum, 2015).

5. Moisture conservation. In arid regions, it is important to preserve winter and spring moisture in the soil in autumn. For this, after ploughing the surface is not levelled but left ridged — this reduces evaporation and retains snow.

Recommendation: If possible, carry out autumn tillage as early as possible, immediately after harvesting the predecessor, so that the soil has time to settle and "rest" before spring.

Management of problem soils:

• On heavy clay soils, deep autumn digging is especially important because it improves structure and promotes freezing of the soil, breaking dense layers. Application of coarse sand and organic matter is also best done in autumn (Welbaum, 2015).
• On sandy soils, deep digging is not recommended, as it may lead to loss of moisture and nutrients. Shallow tillage to 15–20 cm with mandatory organic matter application is sufficient.

Spring Preparation: Final Touches

Spring tillage is aimed at "awakening" the soil, levelling it, and creating conditions for rapid warming and planting.

Main tasks of spring preparation:

1. Closing moisture (early spring harrowing). As soon as the soil dries slightly and is ready for tillage, shallow loosening of the top layer to a depth of 5–6 cm is carried out. This prevents evaporation of moisture accumulated over winter. This technique is called "closing moisture" (Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

2. Pre‑planting cultivation. 1–2 days before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 12–15 cm. This destroys weed seedlings, levels the surface, and creates a "planting bed" for transplants (Autko et al., 2012).

3. Levelling the surface. For cabbage, it is very important that the bed surface is even. This ensures uniform planting depth, equal access to moisture and heat for all plants. Rakes or special levellers are used for levelling (Welbaum, 2015).

4. Application of starter fertilizers. If not applied in autumn, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, as well as a starter dose of nitrogen, can be added in spring before planting (see Chapter 7).

Important nuances:

• Tillage depth. Spring digging should be slightly shallower than autumn (by 4–5 cm) to avoid bringing to the surface weed seeds buried deep in autumn (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).
• Timing. Tillage should be done at optimal times: when the soil has warmed to 8–10 °C at a depth of 10–12 cm but is still moist enough for planting.

Preparing Beds or Rows

Cabbage can be grown both on a flat surface and on raised beds. The choice depends on the region and soil type:

• In areas with sufficient moisture (northern, central regions), planting on ridges or raised beds is preferable. This ensures better drainage, rapid soil warming, and air access to roots (Nonnecke, 1989). Ridges can be formed in autumn or spring a few days before planting.
• In arid southern regions, cabbage is often planted on a flat surface to conserve soil moisture and reduce evaporation (Nonnecke, 1989).

Practical summary:

1. Autumn: remove weeds, apply organic matter and lime, dig deeply (25–30 cm).

2. Spring: close moisture (harrowing), carry out cultivation (12–15 cm), level surface, form ridges (if needed).

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Phosphorus and Potassium: Foundation for Roots and Quality

These two elements are often applied in advance because they are immobile and slowly absorbed by plants.

Phosphorus (P)

• Role: Phosphorus is critically important for the development of a strong root system. It also participates in energy metabolism, flowering, and setting the future yield. In deficiency, cabbage roots poorly, leaves become small, darken, and sometimes take on a purple tint (Startsev, 2021).
• When and how to apply: Phosphorus fertilizers (e.g., superphosphate) are best applied in autumn under main tillage or in spring under cultivation. This is because phosphorus moves slowly in the soil and needs to be incorporated to the depth of the main root mass. The usual recommended dose of P₂O₅ is from 6 to 15 g/m² (60–150 kg/ha) depending on soil fertility (Autko et al., 2012; Startsev, 2021).

Potassium (K)

• Role: Potassium is the element of quality. It affects head density, storage ability (keeping quality), and also increases plant resistance to diseases and drought. Potassium deficiency causes yellowing and dieback of the edges of lower leaves ("tip burn"), heads form loose and store poorly (Nonnecke, 1989; Startsev, 2021).
• When and how to apply: Like phosphorus, potassium is best applied in autumn because it is also immobile. Potassium chloride is the most accessible fertilizer, but chlorine can be harmful to cabbage. Therefore, it is better to apply it in autumn so that chlorine is washed out of the root zone over winter. The recommended dose of K₂O for cabbage is from 10 to 24 g/m² (100–240 kg/ha) (Autko et al., 2012; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). Some sources recommend slightly reducing the potassium dose for cabbage compared to other crops (Nonnecke, 1989).

Tip: Use complex fertilizers containing both phosphorus and potassium (e.g., autumn fertilizers labelled "autumn" on the packaging). This simplifies the process and ensures balanced nutrition.

Nitrogen: The Engine of Leaf Mass Growth

Nitrogen is the most important element for cabbage, especially in the first half of the growing season. It is the main building material for proteins and chlorophyll, ensuring rapid leaf growth.

• Role: Sufficient nitrogen is the key to rapid formation of a powerful leaf rosette, which will later feed the head. Nitrogen deficiency manifests as pale‑green leaf colour, stunted growth, and small, uneven heads (Nonnecke, 1989).
• Caution: Excess nitrogen is as dangerous as deficiency. Over‑fed cabbage "luxuriates": it grows huge, succulent leaves at the expense of the head, becomes loose and more susceptible to diseases. Moreover, excess nitrogen reduces storage quality and can lead to nitrate accumulation in heads (Nonnecke, 1989; Autko et al., 2012).

Starter nitrogen: A small starter dose of nitrogen is applied in spring, just before planting or in planting holes when transplanting. This helps the plant start growing quickly after transplanting. Usually this is 20–30% of the total nitrogen requirement (Welbaum, 2015; Autko et al., 2012). The recommended rate for starter application is about 5–8 g N/m² (50–80 kg/ha).

Main nitrogen: The remainder of the nitrogen is applied as top‑dressings (see next chapter) during the period of active leaf growth and at the beginning of head formation. The total recommended dose of N for cabbage ranges from 9 to 16 g/m² (90–160 kg/ha) depending on soil fertility (Autko et al., 2012; Startsev, 2021).

Calcium and Micronutrients: Important Details

Calcium (Ca): Cabbage is a calciphile. Calcium is necessary for strengthening cell walls, making heads denser and more resistant to diseases (e.g., tip burn). Usually liming (see Chapter 4) fully covers cabbage's calcium requirement. If the soil is neutral, additional calcium application is not required.

Micronutrients: Cabbage is very sensitive to deficiency of boron (B) and molybdenum (Mo).

• Boron: Boron deficiency leads to hollow stem, cracking of the stalk, and browning of the core (Nonnecke, 1989; Welbaum, 2015). Boron can be applied with micronutrient fertilizers as part of top‑dressings or as foliar sprays.
• Molybdenum: Molybdenum deficiency is especially dangerous on acidic soils and manifests as "whiptail" — leaf deformation (Welbaum, 2015). Molybdenum is also applied with micronutrient fertilizers or by applying ammonium molybdate (Autko et al., 2012).

How to Apply: Local or Broadcast?

• Broadcast application (spreading): Fertilizers (especially phosphorus and potassium) are evenly distributed over the entire surface of the field or bed and then incorporated into the soil during digging or cultivation. This is a good method for "background" nutrition.
• Local application (in rows or holes): A more effective method for starter fertilizers (especially nitrogen and phosphorus). Fertilizers are applied directly to the zone of future root location (in holes when transplanting). This gives the plant quick access to nutrients and reduces fertilizer losses (Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

Practical summary:

1. In autumn (under digging): apply phosphorus (superphosphate), potassium (potassium sulphate or potassium chloride) fertilizers, and, if needed, lime materials.

2. In spring (at planting): use complex fertilizers or apply a starter dose of nitrogen (e.g., ammonium nitrate) in holes or rows.

3. During the growing season: plan nitrogen top‑dressings (and, if necessary, micronutrients) — more on this in future articles.

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Soil Moisture: The "Golden Mean"

Cabbage is a moisture‑loving crop, but waterlogging is harmful to it, especially for young plants. The soil before planting should be moist but not wet. How to check this in practice?

• Simple test: Take a handful of soil from a depth of 10–15 cm and squeeze it in your fist. If the soil crumbles — it is too dry, and watering is needed 1–2 days before planting. If water drips from it — it is waterlogged, and planting should be delayed until the soil dries. The optimal case is when water does not run from the compressed clump, but it retains its shape easily (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003; Welbaum, 2015).

• Why this matters: Moist soil ensures good contact between roots and soil particles, speeding up establishment. Over‑watered soil, especially on heavy soils, may cause root rot and blackleg development. Dry soil, on the other hand, will cause transplants to suffer for a long time and grow poorly.

• Watering before planting: If the soil is dry, 1–2 days before planting carry out abundant watering at the rate of 200–300 m³/ha (20–30 l/m²) (Autko et al., 2012). This creates the necessary moisture reserve in the root zone. If the soil is already moist, additional watering is not needed — it may be harmful.

Soil Temperature: When Cabbage Is Ready to Start

Cabbage is a cold‑hardy crop, but for active root growth it needs sufficiently warm soil.

Optimal temperature: It is best to transplant when the soil at a depth of 10–15 cm has warmed to 8–10 °C (Nonnecke, 1989; Autko et al., 2012). At this temperature, roots grow actively and plants establish quickly.

Can you plant in cold soil? Yes, cabbage can withstand short frosts down to -5...-8 °C, but in cold soil (below 5 °C) its roots barely function. Transplants will sit in place, suffer for a long time, increasing the risk of disease (Welbaum, 2015).

How to speed up soil warming:

1. Forming raised beds: Ridges and raised beds warm up faster than flat surfaces because they have a larger area exposed to sunlight (Nonnecke, 1989).

2. Using black mulch or film: Black plastic film or black mulch material attracts sunlight and significantly accelerates soil warming. This is an excellent technique for early harvests.

Forming Beds: Flat Surface, Raised Beds, or Ridges?

The choice of bed‑forming method depends on the climatic zone and soil type.

• Flat surface: Traditional method for regions with sufficient moisture and good soils. Convenient for mechanised planting and irrigation (Autko et al., 2012).
• Raised beds (wide ridges): Recommended for regions with cool, wet climates (e.g., Non‑Chernozem zone, northern areas). Raised beds ensure better drainage, rapid soil warming, and better air access to roots. Bed width — 1–1.2 m, height — 15–20 cm (Nonnecke, 1989; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).
• Narrow ridges: Used on heavy, compacting soils and in areas with excessive moisture. Ridges allow roots to "breathe" and avoid water stagnation. Ridge height — 10–15 cm (Autko et al., 2012).

Important tip: Raised beds or ridges should be formed 7–10 days before planting so they have time to settle and warm up. If formed immediately before planting, they will be too loose, and transplants may "sink" (Welbaum, 2015).

Preparing Planting Holes

• Planting depth: A very important point. Cabbage transplants are planted at the same depth at which they grew in pots or cassettes. The growing point must not be buried! If the central bud is buried, the plant may become diseased or die (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).
• Hole width: Holes should be wide enough to accommodate the root ball freely.
• Filling the holes: When planting, a small amount of complex fertilizer (starter nitrogen, phosphorus) or a handful of manure humus can be added to each hole, thoroughly mixed with soil. This gives the plant a quick start.
• Spacing between plants: For early varieties — 35–40 cm in the row and 60–70 cm between rows. For late varieties — 50–60 cm and 70–80 cm respectively (Nonnecke, 1989; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003). The larger the feeding area, the larger the head will grow, but it will mature later.

Mulching: Protection and Care

Mulching is covering the soil around plants with a layer of organic material (straw, well‑rotted sawdust, peat, mown grass) or special film.

Why cabbage needs it:

1. Moisture retention: Mulch significantly reduces evaporation from the soil surface, especially important during hot periods.

2. Weed control: A mulch layer (5–10 cm) suppresses growth of most weeds, saving your time on weeding.

3. Temperature regulation: Mulch protects roots from overheating in hot weather and from sharp temperature fluctuations, keeping the soil cooler (Welbaum, 2015; Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).

4. Improving soil structure: Over time, organic mulch decomposes, becoming an additional source of humus and nutrition for plants.

Using black mulching film: This is especially effective in regions with cool climates or for early harvests. Black film:

• Retains moisture and suppresses weeds.
• Significantly accelerates spring soil warming.
• Prevents evaporation and keeps the soil loose.

Practical Summary: Pre‑Planting Checklist

Before transplanting, check:

1. Soil: moist (clump holds shape but is not wet), loose, warmed to 8–10 °C.

2. Beds: formed, levelled, and ready for planting.

3. Holes: prepared (depth matches root ball size).

4. Fertilizers: starter fertilizer in the hole (optional).

5. Mulch: (optional) ready for laying after planting.

Final tip: The best time for transplanting is a cloudy day or evening. This reduces transplant stress because sunlight does not overheat the plants, and they have time to establish before the heat sets in (Tarakanov and Mukhin, 2003).