Growing garlic from bulbs

Why Does a Gardener Need Bulbils? Main Advantages

1. Revitalisation of the variety. This is perhaps the most important reason. Many garlic diseases, including viruses and nematodes, accumulate in cloves and are passed from generation to generation through vegetative propagation. Why does this work? Pathogens typically affect the basal plate and root system of the bulb, but they do not penetrate the flower stalk and the bulbils forming there. Growing garlic from bulbils over 1–2 seasons produces planting material free from many accumulated infections (Autko et al., 2012). It is like rejuvenating your variety.

2. Saving planting material. The multiplication rate using bulbils is 10–15 times higher than with cloves. One plant can produce up to 300 bulbils (Kajimura et al., 2000). This allows you to quickly propagate a new, rare, or particularly valuable variety without spending several years doing so.

3. Preserving the variety. Unlike seeds, which do not retain parental traits due to cross‑pollination, bulbils are exact genetic clones of the mother plant. This guarantees that you will get exactly the garlic variety you planted.

Bulbils and Spring Garlic: What Is the Difference?

It is important to clarify this to avoid confusion. The main method of propagating spring garlic is through cloves. Most spring varieties do not bolt and therefore do not produce bulbils (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Key practical takeaway:

The method of growing from bulbils is primarily a technique for winter (bolting) garlic. It is in winter varieties that we cut the stalks with bulbils to grow from them large, healthy single‑clove bulbs (or small multi‑clove bulbs in the case of spring types), which will become elite planting material the following year.

For spring garlic, which does not produce bulbils, this method is not applicable. However, understanding the nature of bulbils is critical for any gardener, as it underlies the understanding of the life cycle of all garlic forms, including its evolution and domestication.

Historical note: Research by Dr. T. Eto (Kagoshima University) showed that fertile (seed‑producing) garlic clones collected in Central Asia often produce more than 200 bulbils per inflorescence (Eto, 1986). These findings confirm that the ability to form bulbils is an ancient evolutionary survival mechanism that humans have harnessed for their own purposes.

Thus, bulbils are not just “babies” but a powerful agronomic tool for revitalising and rapidly propagating winter garlic. In the next chapter, we will examine in detail how to properly harvest, store, and prepare them for planting to achieve the best results.

---

1. Revitalisation of Planting Material (the Main Reason)

This is the most compelling reason why experienced gardeners switch to bulbils. With many years of vegetative propagation (by cloves), pathogens accumulate in garlic tissues: viruses, fungi, and nematodes. They are not always visible to the naked eye, but they gradually reduce yields, shrink bulbs, and shorten storage life.

Why do bulbils solve this problem? Pests and disease agents usually attack the basal plate of the mother bulb and the root system, but they do not penetrate the flower stalk and the bulbils forming within it (Autko et al., 2012). Thus, material grown from bulbils turns out to be free from most accumulated infections. This allows you to “rejuvenate” the variety in 1–2 seasons and restore its original vigour and large‑fruitedness. In essence, it is the only accessible method of sanitation for garlic without using complex laboratory techniques.

2. Rapid Propagation of Valuable Varieties

If you have a rare variety that produced only a few large heads, propagating it by cloves would take years. Bulbils provide a multiplication rate 10–15 times higher than cloves (Autko et al., 2012). One plant can produce from 100 to 300 bulbils (Kajimura et al., 2000). This means that in one season you get hundreds of healthy “babies” that will turn into full‑fledged planting material after a year. The method is ideal for those who want to quickly “scale up” a favourite variety or renew their collection.

3. Obtaining Uniform and Large Planting Material

When bulbils are sown, the first year produces a single‑clove bulb (garlic set) — a small but dense and healthy bulb consisting of a single clove. It is these single‑clove bulbs, planted in autumn, that produce the largest and most uniform multi‑clove heads the following year. This is especially important for commercial growing, but it is also convenient for home use: the heads come out the same size, store better, and are easier to peel.

Additional Bonuses:

• Saving storage space. Bulbils take up very little space compared to cloves; they are easier to sort, treat, and store until planting.
• Possibility to restore a variety after freezing or disease. If winter garlic has been frost‑damaged or affected by rots, you can still preserve the variety by collecting bulbils from healthy surviving stalks.

Comparison with the Traditional Method

Using cloves year after year is the simplest but also the riskiest path. Over time, the variety inevitably degenerates due to the accumulation of viruses and other pathogens (Block, 2010). Growing from bulbils is a kind of “reset” of your garlic’s genetic material, allowing it to regain the health and vigour inherent in nature.

Important clarification: This method is primarily applicable to winter bolting garlic, as it is the one that forms bulbils. Spring varieties generally do not bolt, so this method is unavailable for them. But if you grow winter garlic, using bulbils is the most reliable way to always have elite, healthy planting material at hand.

---

When to Cut the Stalks: Determining the Optimal Time

The main guideline is the condition of the inflorescence wrapper (the sheath containing the bulbils).

• Do not rush. If you cut the stalks too early, the bulbils will be underdeveloped, small, and have low germination.
• Do not be late. If you wait too long, the wrapper will start to crack, and the largest bulbils may simply fall to the ground and be lost (Autko et al., 2012).

Practical rule: The best time for cutting is when the inflorescence wrapper begins to crack and the bulbils inside become clearly visible and acquire the characteristic colour of the variety. This usually occurs in late July – early August, about 1–1.5 weeks after you have cut the stalks for culinary purposes (if you do that).

How to check? Select a few “control” plants and carefully cut or tear the wrapper on one stalk. If the bulbils inside are firm, well‑formed, and beginning to colour, it is time to start harvesting.

Harvesting Technique: Cutting and Drying Properly

1. Cutting. It is better not to pull the stalks but to cut them with pruners or a sharp knife, leaving a “tail” (flower stalk) 15–20 cm long. This makes it easier to tie them into bundles and hang for after‑ripening. Cut stalks in dry weather, preferably in the first half of the day after the dew has dried.

2. After‑ripening (drying). This is a key step. Freshly cut stalks with bulbils must be after‑ripened in a dry, well‑ventilated place under cover. To do this, tie them into small bundles of 10–15 and hang them upside down (inflorescences downward). The drying process takes 20–30 days (Autko et al., 2012). During this time, the bulbils finally mature, and the wrapper dries and becomes brittle, facilitating their separation.

Why is this important? Fresh stalks contain a lot of moisture, and if threshed immediately, the bulbils may become mouldy during storage. Slow after‑ripening allows them to reach full condition and preserves them better.

Processing and Calibration: Preparing for Planting

After the stalks are completely dry, the bulbils must be separated from the flower stem. This is done by hand: simply rub the dry inflorescences between your fingers, and the bulbils easily fall out.

The resulting material should be cleaned of plant debris (scales, stalk remnants). This can be done by winnowing: pour the bulbils in a breeze or in front of a fan — light debris blows away, while heavy bulbils settle.

The most important step — calibration (sorting by size).

• Select for planting only the largest and firmest bulbils. They contain a greater reserve of nutrients, will produce more vigorous shoots, and ultimately larger single‑clove bulbs (Autko et al., 2012).
• Small bulbils are better not used or sown separately, as they produce weak plants.
• Carefully inspect the material and discard any bulbils showing signs of mould, damage, or soft, shrivelled skins.

Storing Bulbils until Planting

Proper storage is the key to good germination.

• For autumn sowing, bulbils are stored in a dry, cool, well‑ventilated room. They can be kept in paper bags or cloth sacks.
• If you plan a spring sowing (this method will be discussed later), bulbils should be stored in warmer conditions (at room temperature) to prevent premature growth. The optimal temperature for long‑term storage is about 18–20°C (Kajimura et al., 2000). At this temperature, bulbils do not sprout until planting.

Brief summary of the chapter:

1. Cut stalks when the inflorescence wrapper begins to crack.

2. Be sure to after‑ripen them hanging in a dry place for 20–30 days.

3. Separate the bulbils, clean them of debris, and calibrate, selecting only the largest and healthiest.

4. Store in a dry place; for spring planting, keep at 18–20°C.

---

Regime 1. Storage for Autumn Sowing (overwintering)

If you decide to sow bulbils in autumn, simultaneously with winter garlic cloves, your task is to keep them dormant until planting time, preventing premature awakening.

• Temperature: The optimal range is 0°C to +5°C (Autko et al., 2012). At this temperature, metabolic processes in the bulbils are minimal; they neither sprout nor dry out.
• Humidity: Maintain relative air humidity at 70–75%. If humidity is higher, bulbils may become mouldy or prematurely start growing. If lower, they may dry out and lose germination.
• Ventilation: The storage area must be well ventilated. It is best to use cloth sacks, paper bags, or mesh boxes that allow air circulation. Do not store bulbils in tight plastic bags — they will suffocate and rot.

Where to create such conditions? A cellar, basement, or unheated garage with stable temperatures is ideal. If you do not have such a space, you can store bulbils in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator, placing them in a paper bag.

Regime 2. Storage for Spring Sowing

Spring sowing of bulbils is less common but has its advantages (we will discuss it in the next chapter). However, spring sowing requires a fundamentally different storage regime.

• Temperature: Bulbils should be stored at warm temperatures, around 18–20°C (Kajimura et al., 2000). Why is this needed? The fact is that bulbils, like winter garlic cloves, require a cold period (vernalisation) for normal development. If you kept them warm all winter and then plant them in spring, they will not have time to undergo vernalisation and will not bolt; instead, they will form large single‑clove bulbs by the end of the season. This is exactly what we need to obtain large planting material. If the bulbils experience cold during winter and are planted in spring, they may bolt and not produce good single‑clove bulbs.
• Humidity and ventilation: The same as for autumn storage: 70–75% humidity and good air circulation. It is important not to let the bulbils dry out during warm storage — they may lose moisture and shrivel.

Where to store warm? In a dry pantry, on a top kitchen shelf, or another place where the temperature stays around 20°C.

Main Causes of Quality Loss during Storage and How to Avoid Them

1. Mould. Occurs with excessive humidity and lack of ventilation. Solution: store bulbils in a dry place in breathable containers and periodically check their condition.

2. Drying out. Happens when humidity is too low (below 60%). Solution: if storage is too dry, place a container of water to humidify the air, but ensure water does not touch the bulbils.

3. Premature sprouting. Most often occurs during autumn storage if the temperature rises above +5°C. Solution: strictly control the temperature regime.

4. Mechanical damage. Bulbils are very small and fragile. When handling, try not to damage their protective skin, otherwise they become vulnerable to infections.

Practical Advice

Before planting, be sure to sort through the bulbils, removing any suspicious ones (with mould, shrivelled, soft). Even if you stored the material perfectly, there is always a small percentage of natural loss — this is normal. Select only firm, plump bulbils with intact skins for planting.

Chapter summary:

• Autumn sowing: store at +0…+5°C.
• Spring sowing: store at +18…+20°C.
• In both cases, maintain humidity at 70–75% and ensure good ventilation.
• Do not keep bulbils in plastic; use cloth or paper.
• Always sort the material before planting.

Now we have properly harvested and stored bulbils. It is time to understand exactly how to sow them to achieve excellent results. This will be the subject of the next chapter.

---

Autumn Sowing: The Classic Method

This method is closest to the natural development cycle of garlic and is most commonly used in practice.

Timing: Bulbils are sown at the same time as winter garlic cloves, i.e., 3–4 weeks before the onset of persistent cold. In the temperate zone, this is usually late September — the first half of October (Autko et al., 2012). In more southern regions, dates shift to October–November; in northern ones, to early–mid September.

Planting depth: In autumn sowing, bulbils are planted deeper than in spring — 5–7 cm (Autko et al., 2012). This is done to protect them from winter freezing. Deeper planting ensures better overwintering.

Mulching: After sowing, beds must be mulched with a layer of peat, humus, or compost 1.5–2 cm thick (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018). Mulch serves several functions:

• Protects bulbils from freezing in snowless winters.
• Prevents soil crust formation in spring.
• Retains soil moisture.
• Promotes faster soil warming in early spring.

What do we get as a result? By the end of the following summer, the bulbils produce set — a single‑clove bulb weighing from 1 to 8 grams (Autko et al., 2012). This set is dug up, dried, and stored until autumn, then planted the next year as full planting material, which will produce large multi‑clove bulbs.

Spring Sowing: An Alternative Method

Spring sowing is less common but has its advantages. It is especially relevant in regions with harsh winters, where autumn sowing carries a risk of freezing.

Timing: Bulbils are sown early in spring, as soon as the soil permits, usually in the first–second decade of April (Autko et al., 2012). It is important not to delay, so the plants have enough time to complete their development cycle during the season.

Pre‑sowing preparation: For spring sowing, bulbils are stored warm (18–20°C), as discussed in the previous chapter. Warm storage prevents premature sprouting and ensures even emergence after planting. Before sowing, bulbils can be soaked in warm water for a day to accelerate germination.

Planting depth: In spring sowing, bulbils are planted shallower — 3–5 cm (Autko et al., 2012). This allows them to warm up faster and start growing.

Mulching: Beds are also mulched, but mainly to retain moisture and protect against weeds.

What do we get as a result? By the end of summer, bulbils also produce a single‑clove bulb. However, unlike autumn sowing, this single‑clove bulb may be somewhat smaller because the plants had less time to develop. Nevertheless, it is quite suitable for autumn planting and will yield a full harvest the next year.

Comparison Table: Autumn vs. Spring Sowing

Which Method to Choose?

The choice depends on your region and goals:

• Autumn sowing is the preferred option for most temperate‑climate regions. It is more reliable, produces larger and more uniform sets, and is closest to the plant’s natural cycle.
• Spring sowing is a good alternative for regions with harsh winters where there is a risk of freezing. It is also suitable if you missed the autumn sowing. However, it requires more careful control of winter storage conditions for the bulbils.

Practical advice: If you are just starting to learn this method, try both options on small plots and see what works best in your conditions. This way, you will find the optimal strategy for your garden.

---

Planting Scheme Options: From Simple to Advanced

For home gardeners and small farmers, two main approaches are suitable.

Seeding Rate: How Many Bulbils per Square Metre

The seeding rate varies greatly depending on the size of the bulbils. Large bulbils are sown less densely, small ones more densely.

• For large bulbils (diameter over 5–7 mm): the seeding rate is about 50–100 kg/ha (Torikov and Sychev, 2018). In terms of 100 m², that is about 0.5–1 kg. Per 1 m², you will need about 200–400 large bulbils (depending on exact size and weight).
• For small bulbils (diameter less than 5 mm): the seeding rate may be higher, but such bulbils often produce weak sets, so it is better not to use them at all or sow them separately on a small bed to obtain small single‑clove bulbs (which can also be used but will produce smaller heads).

Practical advice: It is easier to go by number rather than weight. Spread the bulbils on a flat surface and visually assess the density. Ideally, the space between them should be roughly equal to their diameter. This prevents overcrowding and ensures the formation of large single‑clove bulbs.

Planting Depth: Why It Matters So Much

We have already mentioned depth in the previous chapter, but here we provide a more detailed explanation.

• Spring sowing (3–5 cm): Shallower depth is needed so the soil warms up faster and the bulbils start growing. In cold, unheated soil, they may rot.
• Autumn sowing (5–7 cm): Greater depth protects bulbils from freezing. The topsoil freezes faster and deeper than the lower layers, so deeper planting ensures better overwintering (Autko et al., 2012).
• General rule: Do not plant bulbils too deep — it delays emergence. But do not sow too shallow, especially in autumn — they may freeze or dry out.

Mulching after Sowing

After sowing (especially autumn sowing), beds must be mulched.

Material: Peat, humus, compost, or chopped straw.

Layer thickness: 1.5–2 cm (Autko et al., 2012).

Purpose:

• Protects from freezing (autumn).
• Retains soil moisture (spring and summer).
• Suppresses weed growth.
• Prevents soil crust formation.
• Promotes better soil warming in spring.

Practical Recommendations for the Gardener

1. Make furrows. On the prepared bed (dug and levelled), cut furrows to the required depth. You can use a hoe or the edge of a board.

2. Place the bulbils. Carefully place the bulbils along the bottom of the furrow at the required spacing. Try not to damage their skin.

3. Cover with soil. Cover the furrows with loose soil and lightly firm the surface (pat with your palm or a board) to ensure good contact between bulbils and soil.

4. Mulch. Immediately after sowing, mulch the bed, especially if sowing in autumn.

5. Watering. If the soil is dry, gently water the bed with a watering can with a fine rose to avoid washing away the soil. In autumn, if the soil is moist, watering is not needed.

Brief summary of the chapter:

• Wide‑row sowing (30–45 cm between rows, 2–5 cm between bulbils) is a simple and reliable option.
• Band sowing (8–10 cm between rows, 40–50 cm between bands) makes more efficient use of space.
• Sowing depth: spring 3–5 cm, autumn 5–7 cm.
• Mandatory mulching after sowing is the key to good overwintering and uniform emergence.

---

Growth Characteristics: What Happens to the Bulbil after Sowing

In the first year, from a bulbil grows not a multi‑clove bulb but a single‑clove bulb — a round, dense bulb consisting of a single clove. This is a normal stage of development. Throughout the season, the plant builds green mass and by the end of summer forms this single, large clove.

• Autumn sowing: Bulbils have time to root before winter and start growing very early in spring as soon as the soil warms up. This gives them an advantage — they use spring moisture and quickly build green mass (Autko et al., 2012).
• Spring sowing: Plants start developing later, but with proper care, they also manage to form a full‑sized single‑clove bulb by the end of the season.

Crop Care: Three Main Rules

Caring for bulbil sowings is much like caring for onion sets, but with its own nuances.

Harvesting and Preparing Single‑Clove Bulbs for Storage

Harvesting of sets begins when the leaves start to yellow and lodge. In the temperate zone, this is usually the first–second decade of August (Autko et al., 2012).

• How to harvest: Pull the plants out of the soil by hand or lift with a fork if the soil is compact.
• Drying (after‑ripening): The dug‑up sets are tied into small bundles or spread in a single layer on racks in a dry, well‑ventilated place (under cover, in a shed, or in the attic). Dry for 2–3 weeks, turning occasionally.
• Trimming: After complete drying, cut off the leaves, leaving a stub of 1.5–2 cm, and remove the roots. The outer scales should be dry and firm.

Storing Single‑Clove Bulbs until Autumn Planting

Proper storage of the set is the key to ensuring it does not spoil and yields a good crop the next year.

• Conditions: Sets are stored in a dry, cool, well‑ventilated place at 0…+2°C and air humidity 70–75% (Autko et al., 2012). Under such conditions, they do not sprout before autumn planting and keep well.
• Containers: Store sets in mesh bags, boxes, or on racks in a thin layer to ensure good air circulation. Do not store in tight plastic bags — they may rot.
• Before planting: 2–3 days before planting, calibrate the sets, selecting the largest, firmest, and healthiest for planting. Small sets can also be planted, but they will produce smaller bulbs.

What to Do with the Sets Next?

The grown and stored sets are used as planting material to obtain a full harvest of multi‑clove garlic in the next season.

• Autumn planting: Plant the sets on beds at the same time as winter garlic cloves (September–October). Planting depth — 4–6 cm (Autko et al., 2012).
• Result: The following year, from the planted sets, large multi‑clove bulbs grow. These are harvested as the main commercial garlic crop.

Thus, the cycle “bulbil → single‑clove bulb → multi‑clove bulb” takes two years. However, the result is worth it — you get healthy, uniform, and large planting material that guarantees an excellent harvest.

Brief summary of the chapter:

• In the first year, a single‑clove bulb grows from a bulbil.
• Care includes regular loosening, weeding, moderate watering, and 2–3 fertilisations.
• Watering is stopped 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow bulbs to mature.
• Harvest when leaves yellow; dry in a dry, ventilated place for 2–3 weeks.
• Store sets at 0…+2°C until autumn planting.
• The next year, the sets produce a full harvest of multi‑clove garlic.

Now you have a complete picture of how to grow your own elite planting material from bulbils. This method may seem lengthy, but it pays off handsomely in the health and productivity of your garlic.

---

Why Transplant Single‑Clove Bulbs?

A single‑clove bulb is a small but very dense and healthy bulb consisting of a single clove. It contains significantly more nutrients than a bulbil and has a powerful root system. When planted in autumn, it roots quickly and gives a strong start in spring, allowing the formation of a large, multi‑clove bulb.

Why does this work? Transplanting single‑clove bulbs is essentially the same technology as planting onion sets. A small but well‑developed bulb (set), when planted, produces larger and better‑quality produce than sowing seeds. For garlic, this principle works similarly: the single‑clove bulb is much larger and stronger than a bulbil, so the bulb that grows from it is also larger (Autko et al., 2012).

Preparation of Planting Material: What to Do before Planting

Before planting, single‑clove bulbs must be carefully prepared.

Timing for Planting Single‑Clove Bulbs: When to Plant

Single‑clove bulbs are planted in autumn, at the same time as winter garlic cloves. The main rule is 3–4 weeks before the onset of persistent cold, so that the plants have time to root but not start active growth.

• In the temperate zone: Optimal dates are late September — the first half of October (Autko et al., 2012).
• In southern regions: Dates shift to October–November.
• In northern regions: Dates are earlier — early to mid‑September.

If planting is delayed, the sets will not have time to root before frost and may freeze. If planted too early, they may start growing and be damaged by winter frost.

Planting Scheme: How to Properly Space Single‑Clove Bulbs

The planting scheme for single‑clove bulbs is essentially the same as for winter garlic cloves.

Special Considerations for Planting Single‑Clove Bulbs

1. Orientation during planting. Always plant sets with the base down and the tip up. If planted upside down, the plant will waste energy trying to turn around, delaying growth and possibly deforming the bulb (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

2. Soil firming. After planting, lightly firm the soil (press down) to ensure good contact between the set and the soil. This promotes rapid rooting.

3. Mulching. After planting, mulch the beds with a layer of peat, humus, or compost 1.5–2 cm thick. Mulch protects against freezing, retains moisture, and prevents soil crust formation (Autko et al., 2012).

Care after Planting

In autumn, after planting, no special care is required. The main thing is that the plants root before frost. If autumn is dry, you can water to improve rooting.

In spring, care for plants grown from sets is the same as for ordinary winter garlic:

• Loosening between rows after snow melts.
• Fertilisation with nitrogen fertilisers in early spring, then with complex fertilisers during active growth.
• Watering in dry weather, especially during bulb formation.
• Removing flower stalks in bolting varieties (if they appear) to channel all nutrients into forming a large bulb.

Harvesting

Harvesting is done when the leaves begin to yellow and lodge — usually in late July to early August (Autko et al., 2012). Signs of maturity:

• Yellowing and drying of lower leaves.
• Softening and lodging of the false stem.
• In bolting varieties — cracking of the inflorescence wrapper.

Harvest in dry weather, pulling or digging up the plants. Then dry (after‑ripen) the garlic in a dry, well‑ventilated place for 2–3 weeks, cut off the leaves and roots, and store.

Result

Properly grown from single‑clove bulbs, the plants yield large, healthy, multi‑clove bulbs that store well and possess all the varietal characteristics.

Brief summary of the chapter:

• Transplanting single‑clove bulbs is the final stage of the two‑year cycle.
• Sets are planted in autumn, at the same time as winter garlic cloves.
• Planting depth — 4–6 cm, distance between sets — 4–6 cm.
• Mandatory mulching after planting.
• Spring and summer care is the same as for winter garlic.
• Harvest when leaves yellow in late July – early August.

Now you have a complete picture of the two‑year cycle of growing garlic from bulbils. This method allows you to obtain elite planting material and consistently high yields, and it is also an excellent way to renew the variety and eliminate accumulated diseases.

---

What Do We Get in the End?

From the transplanted single‑clove bulb grows a full‑fledged multi‑clove bulb. This is the garlic we use for food, preserving, cooking, and for further propagation (although to maintain the health of the variety, it is better to use bulbils again).

Comparison with the Conventional Propagation Method

For clarity, let us compare the results of the two approaches:

How to Know When Garlic Is Ripe and Ready for Harvest?

The signs of maturity for garlic grown from sets are the same as for ordinary winter garlic (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018):

1. Yellowing and drying of leaves. Lower leaves turn yellow and dry, upper leaves begin to lodge. This signals that the bulb is mature.

2. Softening and lodging of the false stem. At the base of the bulb, the stem becomes soft and easily bends.

3. In bolting varieties: Cracking of the inflorescence wrapper (on stalks that you did not remove). This also indicates bulb maturity.

Optimal harvest time: In the temperate zone, this is usually late July – early August (Autko et al., 2012). It is important not to delay harvest, otherwise bulbs may over‑ripen, outer scales may crack, and storage quality will suffer.

How to Harvest and Store the Crop?

1. Harvesting: Pull garlic out of the ground by hand or lift with a fork (if the soil is compact). Do this in dry weather.

2. Drying (after‑ripening): Tie the dug plants into bundles or spread them in a single layer on racks in a dry, well‑ventilated place (under cover, in a shed, or in the attic). Dry for 2–3 weeks. During this time, nutrients move from the leaves into the bulb, making it denser and more storable (Autko et al., 2012).

3. Trimming: After complete drying, cut off the leaves, leaving a stub of 1.5–2 cm, and remove the roots. The outer scales should be dry and firm.

4. Storage: Store garlic in a dry, cool, well‑ventilated place. Optimal temperature — 0…+2°C, humidity — 70–75% (Autko et al., 2012). You can store in mesh bags, boxes, or on racks, ensuring good air circulation.

Why Is This Method Worth It?

Growing garlic from bulbils may seem lengthy, but it offers undeniable advantages:

1. Variety renewal. This is the best way to restore health and vigour to your garlic, especially if you have noticed that heads are getting smaller or more prone to disease.

2. Economy. By investing time once in collecting and planting bulbils, you obtain your own elite planting material for many years to come.

3. Self‑sufficiency. You no longer depend on purchased planting material, which may be infected or not match the stated variety.

Brief summary of the chapter:

• From the transplanted single‑clove bulb grows a large, healthy multi‑clove bulb.
• Harvest when leaves yellow and stems lodge (late July – early August).
• After harvest, dry garlic for 2–3 weeks, trim leaves and roots, and store at 0…+2°C.
• This method ensures consistently high yields, plant health, and excellent storage.

With this, our two‑year cycle is complete. You have travelled the path from a tiny bulbil to a full‑sized garlic head, having mastered a method that allows you to maintain variety health and obtain excellent harvests. This approach requires patience and attention, but it pays off in the health and quality of your garlic.