Growing winter garlic

What Is Winter Garlic?

Winter garlic is a form of garlic planted in autumn, before winter. Unlike spring garlic, which is planted in spring, winter garlic undergoes natural vernalisation during the winter dormancy period and produces a crop by mid‑summer (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Garlic is a perennial bulbous plant that is grown in cultivation as an annual. Interestingly, over the course of long evolution, garlic as a cultivated plant has lost the ability to reproduce by seeds. Today it reproduces only vegetatively – by cloves, single‑clove bulbs, or aerial bulbils formed in the inflorescences of bolting plants (Autko et al., 2012; Brewster, 2008).

How Does Winter Garlic Differ from Spring Garlic?

Table compiled from (Torikov and Sychev, 2018; Autko et al., 2012)

It is important to understand: winter garlic is higher yielding and produces larger heads, but it does not store as long as spring garlic. Therefore, winter garlic is more often used for summer consumption and processing, while spring garlic is used for long‑term winter storage.

Why Is Winter Garlic Planted in Autumn?

This is where the key biological feature lies. Winter garlic forms need a period of low temperatures for normal development. This process is called vernalisation.

The roots of winter garlic cloves begin to grow at about 0 °C, and most actively at +5–10 °C. Leaf growth requires +2–5 °C, while clove formation occurs at 15–20 °C. Ripening proceeds at 20–25 °C (Autko et al., 2012).

Autumn planting allows garlic to:

• Root before persistent frosts set in
• Undergo natural vernalisation under snow cover
• Start growing early in spring, using winter moisture reserves
• Form a large head before summer heat arrives

The roots of winter garlic are frost‑hardy and can withstand winter temperatures. Research shows that for normal plant development in spring, at the beginning of growth, lower temperatures are required (Autko et al., 2012).

Bolting and Non‑Bolting Forms

The whole range of garlic varieties is divided into three groups (Torikov and Sychev, 2018; Autko et al., 2012):

1. Winter bolting – form a flower stalk (scape) at the end of which an inflorescence with aerial bulbils is produced

2. Winter non‑bolting – do not form a scape

3. Spring non‑bolting – generally do not bolt

In bolting varieties, the remains of the scape are visible in the centre of the bulb between the cloves. The bulb of such varieties can reach 30–100 g, while in non‑bolting forms it is usually 20–50 g (Autko et al., 2012).

This is important for the gardener to know because:

• Bolting varieties produce larger heads
• Aerial bulbils can be used to rejuvenate planting material
• Scapes must be removed to increase yield (see Chapter 10 for details)

Pros and Cons of Winter Garlic

Advantages:

• Higher and earlier yield
• Large heads and cloves
• Fewer disease problems because plants start growth early
• Use of bulbils for variety renewal (nematode‑free material)

Disadvantages:

• Stores less well than spring garlic (Autko et al., 2012)
• Risk of winterkill if planting time is wrong or in low‑snow winters
• Risk of damping‑off (suffocation under snow) under excessive moisture
• More demanding on soil fertility

As researchers note, winter forms and varieties are distributed mainly in areas with climatic conditions favourable for overwintering of rooted plants. Spring garlic is grown with spring planting dates in almost all geographical regions (Autko et al., 2012).

The Golden Rule: Health First

Only healthy planting material should be used for planting. Even healthy‑looking cloves from diseased bulbs must not be used – the infection is already inside the tissues and will manifest after planting (Autko et al., 2012). This is a key rule that must not be broken.

How to recognise a healthy head:

• Scales are firm, dry, without spots or mould
• Base (basal plate) is clean, without signs of rot or damage
• Cloves are firm to the touch, not flabby
• No suspicious inclusions or blackening
• The bulb is heavier than it looks by size (a sign of good fill)

Why this matters: Diseases (Fusarium, bacterial rots, nematode) are easily transmitted through planting material. Treating diseased plants in the field is practically impossible – it is better to prevent the problem at the start.

Which Cloves Are Best?

For planting, select the largest and medium‑sized bulbs, and from them – large cloves (Autko et al., 2012). Research shows that clove size directly affects final head weight – the larger the planted clove, the larger the bulb will grow (Brewster, 2008; Kemble, 2022).

Optimal clove weight: 4–5 g (Brewster, 2008). This roughly corresponds to a clove from a large head. Cloves weighing less than 1 g are not suitable for planting – they will produce a very small bulb (Kemble, 2022).

Where to take cloves from:

• In bolting varieties, the best cloves are on the periphery of the head – they are larger and more regular in shape
• In non‑bolting varieties, cloves are arranged in a spiral – select the largest outer ones
• Do not use central cloves – they are often small, elongated, and produce weak plants (Kemble, 2022)

Calibration: If you are planting several beds, be sure to separate cloves by size. Small fractions should be planted separately from large ones (Autko et al., 2012). This ensures uniform emergence and the same maturity date, which simplifies care and harvesting.

Why Damaged Cloves Must Not Be Used

Damage is a gateway for infections. Even a small chip or crack on a clove can become an entry point for rot and fungal diseases (Autko et al., 2012).

Cloves with the following are strictly rejected:

• mechanical damage (cracks, chips, tears)
• signs of mould or rot
• dark spots, dents
• a basal plate that is already beginning to rot
• shrivelling or wrinkling

Also, do not use cloves from heads that have started to sprout before planting. Such plants already have a disrupted natural cycle, and overwintering may fail.

When to Use Bulbil Material

In winter garlic, the number of cloves per bulb is not very large, and the multiplication rate using cloves is low. When using aerial bulbils, it increases 10–15 times (Autko et al., 2012).

Why plant bulbils:

1. Rejuvenation of the variety. Since nematodes attack the basal plate but do not affect the inflorescence, material grown from bulbils will be free from this pest (Autko et al., 2012).

2. Saving planting material. If you want to propagate a valuable variety but have few heads, bulbils allow you to quickly obtain a large number of healthy plants.

3. Renewing the variety. Constant use of the same cloves over time leads to degeneration – bulbs become smaller, diseases accumulate. Growing from bulbils (through sets) restores variety characteristics.

How it works:

• In autumn, bulbils are sown (preferably large, well‑developed ones)
• The following year, a set grows – a single‑clove bulb weighing 1–8 g
• The sets are harvested, dried, and planted in autumn as ordinary cloves
• In the second year, a typical multi‑clove bulb develops from the set (Autko et al., 2012)

This method takes an extra year, but allows you to constantly have healthy, productive planting material.

Important: For collecting bulbils, it is better to use varieties with a low scape and a relatively small number of bulbils per inflorescence (up to 100 pieces). In such varieties, the loss of underground bulb weight when inflorescences are left is small (Autko et al., 2012).

Practical Checklist: Checking Planting Material

Before planting, perform a simple check:

The Main Principle: Rooting Without Growth

The golden rule of planting winter garlic is:

Cloves must root, but must not sprout before persistent frosts set in.

Why is this so important? Garlic roots begin to grow at about 0 °C, and actively at +5–10 °C. Leaf growth requires +2–5 °C (Autko et al., 2012). If a clove has rooted but not produced green leaves, it will overwinter safely. If leaves have appeared – the plant will be weakened and will most likely die in winter.

Winter garlic is planted in autumn so that before steady cold weather the planting material roots but does not form leaves. Only in the south is the formation of a few leaves acceptable (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Rooting process: In winter garlic cloves, roots begin to grow at about 0 °C (Autko et al., 2012). Full rooting takes about 3–4 weeks at optimal soil temperature (about +10 °C). During this period, the plant should not expend energy on leaf growth – all resources go to root development.

Temperature Guide: What to Go By

The most reliable guide is soil temperature at planting depth (5–7 cm). The optimal window for planting is:

At this temperature, cloves root within 3–4 weeks, but leaves do not start growing. Once soil temperature drops below +5 °C, root growth slows, and at sub‑zero temperatures it stops completely, and the plant enters dormancy.

In practice this means: plant about 3–4 weeks before the soil begins to freeze. In most regions this is late September – October, but exact dates depend on climate.

Dependence on Region

Since this article is intended for gardeners from different countries and climatic zones, we give general recommendations that can be adapted to local conditions.

Adaptation principle: determine the date when soil freezes persistently in your region and count back 3–4 weeks.

Adaptation through folk signs: In many cultures, garlic planting time is linked to certain natural phenomena, e.g., “after the first frost” or “when leaves begin to fall heavily”. This works because these phenomena are closely related to soil temperature.

The Danger of Early Planting

The main risk is premature sprouting. If planted too early (at temperatures above +15 °C), cloves quickly start growing and produce green leaves. Such plants enter winter weakened and often freeze.

In addition, early planting promotes disease development. In warm, wet autumns, fungal infections (Fusarium, white rot) actively attack cloves, especially if they are damaged.

Consequences of early planting:

• Weakening of the plant before winter
• Winterkill even with moderate frosts
• Disease attack (Fusarium, mould)
• Uneven emergence in spring

The Danger of Late Planting

With late planting (when the soil has already cooled to +5 °C and below), cloves do not have time to root before cold weather. The root system does not develop, and the plant enters winter “unanchored” in the soil.

Consequences of late planting:

• Weak rooting or none at all
• Clove winterkill (especially in low‑snow winters)
• Cloves pushed out of the soil by frost heaving
• Poor overwintering and low yield

As researchers note, in winter forms the roots are frost‑hardy, but only if they have had time to develop. An unrooted clove cannot withstand cold (Autko et al., 2012).

Practical Checklist for Determining Planting Time

1. Watch the weather: when the average daily temperature steadily drops below +10–12 °C.

2. Check the soil: at a depth of 5–7 cm, the temperature should be +8–10 °C.

3. Count back 3–4 weeks from the expected date of soil freezing in your area.

4. Consider the microclimate of your plot: south‑facing slopes and elevated areas have warmer soil, north‑facing and low areas colder – so times shift accordingly.

5. Follow your local gardening calendar – e.g., planting dates recommended by local agronomists for your region.

Examples from Different Countries

Important addition: In regions with mild winters (where the soil does not freeze deeply), planting dates can be more extended. In warm zones (e.g., Israel, Southern California), garlic can be planted from September to December (Brewster, 2008). But even there, avoid early planting to prevent sprouting.

1. Dividing the Head into Cloves

Heads are divided into cloves immediately before planting, but no more than 2–3 days before (Autko et al., 2012).

Why it is so important not to do this in advance:

• Divided cloves lose moisture and dry out faster
• Exposed surfaces become entry points for infections
• The basal plate may dry out, which reduces rooting

Divide heads carefully, trying not to damage the protective scales of the cloves. The old basal plate (the one left from the mother bulb) must be removed. If it is not removed, it acts like a cork, preventing moisture penetration and hindering rooting (Autko et al., 2012). This is a common mistake of beginners – a clove with remnants of the old plate roots poorly and may not root at all.

Technique for dividing:

• Press on the head from the sides – it will fall apart into cloves
• If the head is dense and does not separate, gently help with your fingers or the tip of a knife
• Do not break cloves with force – this damages the basal plate

2. Calibration

After dividing the heads, sort the cloves by size. Small fractions should be planted separately from large ones (Autko et al., 2012).

Why this matters:

• Large cloves produce larger heads
• Cloves of different sizes planted together develop unevenly
• Small cloves are suppressed by large ones, reducing overall yield
• For mechanised planting, calibrated material ensures uniform depth

Practical sizes for calibration:

Cloves weighing less than 1 g are not used for planting – they give weak plants and small bulbs (Kemble, 2022).

3. Disinfection (Seed Treatment)

This is a very important step that many gardeners skip. Treatment protects cloves from fungal diseases that may develop in the soil in autumn and winter.

What specialists recommend (Autko et al., 2012; Kemble, 2022):

Option 1. Soaking in a micronutrient solution (one day before planting):

• 0.01–0.02 % solution of boric acid, zinc sulphate, copper sulphate, and manganese sulphate
• Solution temperature: 14–18 °C
• Soaking time: 18–24 hours
• After soaking, cloves are slightly dried

This method not only disinfects but also gives plants a starter charge of micronutrients for rooting.

Option 2. Fungicide seed treatment (before planting):

• Product TMTD (8–10 L/t) by dipping in a 2–3 % working solution immediately before planting (Autko et al., 2012)
• Alternative: other fungicide preparations approved for garlic
• Treatment time: brief soaking in the solution

Option 3. Folk methods (less reliable, but often used):

• Soaking in a weak potassium permanganate solution (1–2 hours)
• Soaking in wood ash infusion (contains micronutrients and suppresses pathogens)
• Treatment with Fitosporin (biological product against fungal diseases)

What all this is for:

The soil contains pathogens of fungal diseases – Fusarium, Penicillium, white rot. This is especially dangerous in autumn when wet and cool weather favours infection development. Treated cloves are protected and give more uniform emergence in spring.

4. Rooting Stimulants

Although not obligatory, the use of root‑formation stimulants gives a noticeable effect, especially in cold and wet autumns.

Why stimulants work:

• Accelerate root development under low temperatures
• Increase resistance to stress (temperature fluctuations, excess moisture)
• Improve overwintering

What can be used:

• Kornevin (heteroauxin) – soak according to instructions
• Zircon – stimulates root formation and boosts immunity
• Epin‑extra – adaptogen, increases resistance to adverse conditions
• Humic preparations – improve nutrition and root formation

Important: if you have already soaked cloves in a micronutrient solution and fungicide, adding stimulants is not necessary – overloading cloves may have the opposite effect. Choose one of the protection options or combine them judiciously.

5. What NOT to Do When Preparing

1. Do not separate cloves from the head long before planting – they lose moisture and viability (Autko et al., 2012).

2. Do not remove the protective scales – they protect the clove from drying and disease. Remove only those that are already peeling.

3. Do not use damaged cloves – even a small crack is an entry for infection.

4. Do not soak cloves in water for too long – they may rot, especially if the water was warm.

5. Do not leave cloves without drying after soaking – wet cloves are more quickly attacked by mould.

6. Preparing Bulbils (if planting aerial bulbs)

If you decide to propagate garlic through bulbils, preparation is different:

• Scapes are cut when the wrapper cracks and are ripened under cover (Autko et al., 2012)
• After drying, bulbils are rubbed from the inflorescences, winnowed, and calibrated after 25–30 days
• Large, well‑developed bulbils are used for planting
• Small bulbils can also be sown, but they give very small sets

Important: Do not delay harvesting the scapes, as aerial bulbs easily shed, and some of the largest bulbils are lost (Autko et al., 2012).

Practical Algorithm for Preparing Cloves for Planting

Step 1. 2–3 days before planting, divide heads into cloves.

Step 2. Calibrate: sort cloves into large, medium, and small (small ones in a separate bed).

Step 3. 18–24 hours before planting, soak cloves in a micronutrient solution (or weak potassium permanganate solution at home).

Step 4. Immediately before planting, treat with fungicide (dipping in solution) – if you are unsure about the soil quality on your plot.

Step 5. Optionally – treat with rooting stimulant (if you have not used other treatments).

Step 6. Slightly dry cloves until they are not wet to the touch, but not overdried.

Step 7. Proceed to planting immediately.

Planting Depth: Why It Is Critical

The golden rule: planting depth – 3–4 cm from the top of the clove to the soil surface (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018; Kemble, 2022).

What does “depth from the top” mean? The clove is planted strictly vertically, basal plate down. Measure the distance from the highest point of the clove (tip) to the soil level after covering. Not from the basal plate!

Why exactly 3–4 cm:

• Too shallow (less than 2 cm) – the clove may freeze in winter, and in spring it may be pushed out by frost heaving. Also, in a rapidly drying top layer, some cloves fail to germinate (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).
• Too deep (more than 6–7 cm) – the clove has difficulty breaking through in spring, spends a lot of energy, the head forms elongated, and yield decreases. Growth is delayed and bulbs form a more elongated shape (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Adjusting depth to climate:

Clove Orientation: Basal Plate Down

The clove must be planted strictly vertical, basal plate downwards, tip upwards.

Why this matters:

• Roots only grow from the basal plate. If the clove lies on its side or upside‑down, roots grow sideways or upwards, the plant becomes crooked, and the bulb forms incorrectly.
• With mechanised planting (seeders), some cloves may be placed incorrectly, reducing germination by 15–27 % (Autko et al., 2012). For small plots (1–3 ha), hand planting is better – it guarantees correct orientation of every clove.
• If a clove is planted too deep, it may turn during covering, so on large areas special seeders with active shakers are used (Autko et al., 2012).

How to plant by hand: make a hole with your finger or a dibble, insert the clove basal plate down, and gently cover with soil, without firm tamping. Do not press the clove with force – it damages the basal plate and reduces rooting.

Spacing and Planting Scheme

Spacing depends on clove size and growing purpose (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

In‑row spacing:

Why: large cloves need more room to form a large head. Too dense planting (less than 5 cm) leads to competition, and bulbs will be smaller. Too sparse (more than 12 cm) – inefficient use of space.

Row spacing:

• For hand weeding and care – 30–45 cm
• For mechanised care – 50–60 cm between rows (or twin‑row pattern 15+55 cm)
• In twin‑row pattern: 15–20 cm between rows in a band, 50–60 cm between bands (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018)

The twin‑row pattern (15 + 55 cm) is considered best for mechanised care, allowing inter‑row cultivation and providing good light exposure.

Planting density: from 250,000 to 500,000 cloves per hectare (Autko et al., 2012). For the home gardener, roughly:

• Large cloves: 30–40 per m²
• Medium: 40–50 per m²
• Small: 50–60 per m²

Planting material consumption: 800–1200 kg/ha (Autko et al., 2012). For a small plot: about 3–5 kg of cloves per 100 m² under standard spacing.

How Depth Affects Overwintering

Planting depth is one of the main factors for successful overwintering (Brewster, 2008; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Correct depth (3–4 cm):

• Roots reach into the warmer soil layer where temperature is higher than at the surface
• Clove is protected from sharp temperature fluctuations
• In spring, the clove easily emerges to the surface (does not waste extra energy)
• A rooted clove with a good root system tolerates frost better

Too shallow (< 2 cm):

• Clove is in the freezing zone – risk of winterkill
• Spring frost heaving may push the clove out of the soil (it ends up “naked”)
• Root system is poorly developed, plant enters winter weakened

Too deep (> 5–6 cm):

• Clove does not have time to root before frost (roots grow slowly in cold soil)
• In spring, leaf growth is delayed; the clove may rot in wet soil
• The bulb forms elongated and stores poorly

Extra tip: After planting, it is advisable to mulch the bed surface with a layer of peat or compost (1.5–2 cm). This improves overwintering, promotes better soil warming in early spring, preserves daytime heat, prevents crust formation, and retains soil moisture (Autko et al., 2012). More on mulch in the next chapter.

Practical Planting Algorithm

Step 1. Prepare the bed: dig, loosen, add fertiliser if needed.

Step 2. Make furrows or holes at the required depth (3–4 cm). If using a twin‑row scheme, mark the distances.

Step 3. Place the prepared cloves (from Chapter 4) at the required spacing (8–10 cm for large, 6–8 cm for medium).

Step 4. Plant cloves strictly vertically, basal plate down, without pressing hard.

Step 5. Cover with loose soil, level lightly, but do not tamp.

Step 6. If needed, mulch the surface with a 1.5–2 cm layer (peat, compost, dry leaves, straw).

Step 7. If autumn is dry, water (but only if the soil is really dry – excess moisture in autumn is harmful).

Common Planting Mistakes

1. Planting too shallow – the main cause of winterkill.

2. Planting too deep – delayed spring growth and elongated heads.

3. Incorrect orientation – clove on its side or upside down.

4. Tamping soil over cloves – hinders root growth and spring emergence.

5. Planting mixed‑size cloves in the same row – uneven development and suppression of small ones.

6. Planting in unheated soil (too early) – risk of sprouting before winter.

Why Mulch Winter Garlic?

Mulch performs several important functions, each directly affecting winter survival and future harvest.

Mulching Materials

The choice of material depends on climate, availability, and your goals. Here are the most common options.

When and How to Mulch

Mulching time:

• Main mulching is done immediately after planting, before persistent frosts set in (Autko et al., 2012).
• In regions with mild winters, mulching can be delayed until the onset of frost to allow soil to cool and avoid premature sprouting.
• Sometimes two‑layer mulching is used: a main layer in autumn, and an additional thin layer in spring to conserve moisture (but this is more an exception).

Layer thickness:

• Standard: 1.5–2 cm (peat, compost) (Autko et al., 2012)
• For straw, leaves: 5–10 cm (in loose form, not compacted)
• For sawdust and pine needles: 3–5 cm

Technique:

• Mulch is applied after planting, on the bed surface, evenly distributed over the entire area or only along the rows.
• Cover the entire surface, especially between rows, to protect the root system from freezing.
• Do not compact the mulch – it should remain loose and air‑permeable.

Features for different climatic zones:

Spring Work with Mulch

In spring, at the start of field work, mulch must be removed or significantly thinned (Autko et al., 2012). Do this as soon as rows are visible and seedlings appear.

Why this matters:

• Mulch, especially organic, slows soil warming in spring, while garlic needs warmth for active growth.
• A thick layer can create a greenhouse effect, leading to root overheating.
• Wet mulch can become a source of fungal diseases (grey mould, Fusarium) when in contact with leaves.

How to remove:

• Gently rake mulch from the rows with a rake, leaving it between rows (if you want to retain moisture and suppress weeds).
• Or completely remove mulch and use it as compost or for other crops.
• After removing mulch, carry out the first inter‑row cultivation to a depth of 4–5 cm (Autko et al., 2012).

Practical Recommendations

1. Best choice for the home gardener: a mixture of peat and compost (1:1) in a layer of 2–3 cm. This gives optimal protection, nutrition, and does not require spring removal (can simply be worked into the soil during cultivation).

2. In harsh regions, use a two‑layer system: first place cloves, cover with soil, then apply a thick layer of straw or dry leaves on top. Remove straw in spring.

3. Do not use fresh mulch (fresh sawdust, fresh manure, undecomposed organic matter) – it can harm, tying up nitrogen or causing burns.

4. Do not overdo thickness – too thick a layer leads to damping‑off, especially in wet regions. Optimal thickness – 2–5 cm for organic matter and up to 10 cm for loose straw.

5. In arid regions (Southern US, Mediterranean), mulch conserves moisture, but remove it in spring immediately after the soil warms to not hinder growth.

Mulching Bulbils

When planting bulbils (aerial bulbs), mulching is obligatory, as small bulbs are very sensitive to frost and heaving. Rows must be mulched (Autko et al., 2012). Use light, loose mulch (peat, compost, straw) in a layer of 2–3 cm.

Autumn Rooting: The Foundation of Overwintering

Immediately after planting, the most important phase begins – rooting. How well the cloves root before frost determines whether they will survive the winter.

How it happens:

Roots of winter garlic cloves begin to grow at about 0 °C, and most actively at +5–10 °C (Autko et al., 2012). The first roots appear 7–10 days after planting. Initially they are thread‑like, but after 10 days of growth they begin to branch. An adult plant develops more than 100 roots, the bulk of which lie at a depth of 25–30 cm (Autko et al., 2012).

What the gardener should know:

• Rooting takes 3–4 weeks at optimal temperature
• Before steady frosts, garlic must root but not sprout
• In regions with mild winters and warm autumns, formation of a few leaves is possible – this is acceptable only in southern zones (Torikov and Sychev, 2018)

Why rooting is so critical:

• A rooted clove is firmly anchored in the soil – it will not be pushed out by frost heaving
• Roots supply the clove with moisture and nutrients even at low temperatures
• A well‑developed root system is a reserve of strength for the whole winter

Interesting detail: when leaves dry up, old roots die. But at full bulb maturity, new overwintering (so‑called contractile) roots form, which, by contracting, pull the bulb deeper into the soil. Therefore, do not delay harvest, and dig up the plants before the roots die, undercutting them (Autko et al., 2012).

Dormancy: How Garlic Survives Winter

After the soil freezes and temperature drops below 0 °C, garlic enters a state of imposed dormancy. This is not a complete cessation of life activity, but rather a slowdown of all processes to a minimum.

Physiology of dormancy:

In garlic, two types of dormancy are distinguished (Meshkov et al., 2017):

1. Natural dormancy – genetically determined, lasts 1–5 months (depending on origin and variety)

2. Imposed dormancy – caused by unfavourable conditions (cold, drought)

Winter garlic undergoes vernalisation precisely during dormancy. The initiation of flower primordia (in bolting varieties) is associated with passing the vernalisation stage under temperatures of 0…+15 °C (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Research shows that the bulb of onion and garlic can form even in the presence of three true leaves. However, in garlic this process is not as fast as in onion. With moisture deficiency, formation of new leaves stops, but under favourable conditions, clove formation may continue even in winter (Meshkov et al., 2017).

What this means for the gardener:

• In winter, garlic does not grow, but it is not “dead” – biochemical processes occur in tissues
• Vernalisation requires temperatures of 0…+10 °C for several weeks
• Sharp temperature fluctuations disturb dormancy processes

Frost Hardiness: How Much Cold Garlic Can Withstand

Garlic is one of the most cold‑hardy vegetable plants. Roots begin to grow at about 0 °C, and leaves at +2–5 °C (Autko et al., 2012).

In winter, garlic withstands:

• Roots: down to -20…-25 °C (under snow cover or with good mulch)
• Cloves planted at 3–4 cm depth: down to -15…-20 °C depending on variety

What the gardener should know:

• Frost hardiness depends on variety (winter form is more frost‑hardy than spring)
• Plants that have not rooted have sharply reduced frost hardiness
• The most dangerous period is snowless frosts when the soil freezes deeply

Studies on onion and garlic show that onion seedlings tolerate frosts down to -1…-2 °C, and established seedlings of pungent varieties withstand -3…-5 °C and lower (Torikov and Sychev, 2018). Garlic has similar tolerance.

Comparison with other crops:

The Risk of Damping‑Off: What It Is and Why It Is Dangerous

Damping‑off (suffocation under snow) is the death of plants under a thick layer of snow or ice due to lack of oxygen and excess moisture. It is one of the main causes of winter garlic losses in regions with heavy snow cover.

How damping‑off occurs:

1. Heavy snow falls – the layer can reach 50 cm or more

2. Under snow, the temperature stays around 0 °C, the soil does not freeze deeply

3. Meltwater percolates into the soil, creating excess moisture

4. Roots and cloves, in oxygen deficiency, begin to rot (aerobic respiration switches to anaerobic)

5. Especially dangerous when snow falls on unfrozen soil – under it, high humidity and temperature around 0 °C are maintained

Signs of damping‑off in spring:

• Emergence is uneven
• Plants appear weakened, with yellow leaves
• Some plants do not emerge at all
• Bulbs show signs of rot

Risk factors:

• Heavy clay soils with poor drainage
• Thick snow layer (more than 30–40 cm) on unfrozen soil
• Waterlogging on the plot
• Planting in low areas or depressions

How to prevent:

• Choose a site with good drainage, without water stagnation
• Mulch with light, loose organic matter (straw, pine needles), not heavy material
• In heavy snowfall, partially remove snow from beds during thaws (but only if there is a risk of damping‑off rather than freezing)
• In regions with heavy snow cover, use raised beds to improve drainage

The Risk of Winterkill: When and Why Garlic Dies

Winterkill – death of plants from low temperatures. This is the opposite of damping‑off and occurs in low‑snow winters with severe frosts.

How winterkill occurs:

1. Severe frosts set in (below -20 °C) without snow

2. Soil freezes to a depth of more than 10–15 cm

3. Temperature in the root zone drops below critical (about -15 °C)

4. Cells freeze, ice crystals rupture cell walls – tissue dies

Risk factors:

• Low‑snow winter with severe frosts
• Planting too shallow (less than 3 cm)
• Late planting – cloves have not rooted
• Poorly mulched beds
• Light sandy soils that freeze deeper (they have fewer air spaces to insulate heat)

Signs of winterkill in spring:

• Complete absence of emergence on the bed
• When dug up, cloves are softened, dark, often with an unpleasant odour
• If partial, damaged plants lag in growth

How to prevent:

• Correct planting depth (3–4 cm) – critically important
• Mandatory mulching (especially in low‑snow regions)
• Use frost‑hardy varieties adapted to your region
• In areas with severe and low‑snow winters – additional cover (e.g., snow retention)

Frost Heaving of Cloves: An Unexpected Danger

Heaving – pushing of cloves out of the soil by frost heaving. Occurs due to alternating freezing and thawing of the soil.

How heaving happens:

1. In autumn, clove is planted and roots develop

2. Soil is saturated with moisture

3. When frost comes, water in the soil freezes and expands (ice occupies more volume than water)

4. Soil lifts (“heaves”), and the clove is pushed upward with it

5. During a thaw, the soil settles, but the clove does not return to its original depth – it ends up on or very near the surface

6. Roots may be torn

Risk factors:

• Too shallow planting (less than 3 cm)
• Heavy, clayey soils prone to heaving
• Frequent thaws and frosts during winter (cyclic freeze‑thaw)
• Planting in wet autumn followed by early frost
• No mulch or improper (heavy, compacted) mulch

Consequences:

• Clove ends up on the surface and freezes
• Roots, if any, are damaged
• In spring, such cloves either do not emerge or produce weakened plants
• Often leads to loss of 20–50 % of seedlings on problem plots

How to prevent:

• Planting depth – at least 3–4 cm (deeper on heavy soils)
• Mulching with loose materials (straw, compost) – this smooths temperature fluctuations in the topsoil
• Good rolling or firming of soil after planting (but not compaction!)
• Choose a plot with good soil structure

What to do if cloves have heaved:

• In spring, inspect the bed as soon as snow melts
• Gently push heaved cloves back to the correct depth (3–4 cm) with your finger
• Cover with loose soil, press lightly
• Water if soil is dry

What Happens to Bulbils in Winter?

Aerial bulbils, if sown in autumn, undergo the same processes as cloves. But there is a nuance: they are smaller and therefore more vulnerable.

Features of bulbil overwintering:

• Planting depth for bulbils – 5–7 cm in autumn sowing (Autko et al., 2012)
• Rows must be mulched (Autko et al., 2012) – critical for small planting material
• They are more sensitive to heaving than large cloves
• Frost hardiness of bulbils is lower than that of large cloves, so mulching is mandatory

Summary: How to Ensure Successful Overwintering

What to do for garlic to overwinter well:

1. Correct planting time – rooting without sprouting (Chapter 3)

2. Optimal depth – 3–4 cm (not shallower, not deeper) (Chapter 5)

3. Good mulching – protection from frosts, heaving, and temperature fluctuations (Chapter 6)

4. Healthy cloves – no damage or disease (Chapter 2)

5. Correct site – no waterlogging, good drainage

6. Account for regional risks – in low‑snow regions protect from freezing, in high‑snow regions from damping‑off

Three main dangers and their prevention:

Removing Mulch: When and Why

As soon as the snow melts and rows become visible, mulch must be removed or significantly thinned. This is one of the first spring steps (Autko et al., 2012).

Why it matters:

• Organic mulch in spring acts as an insulator: it prevents the soil from warming quickly, whereas garlic needs +10–15 °C for active growth (Autko et al., 2012).
• A thick layer retains moisture, but in wet spring this can lead to rotting of cloves and roots.
• Mulch, especially from previous year, can be a source of fungal spores that become active with warming.
• Mulch hinders the first cultivation, which is critical for root aeration.

How to remove correctly:

• Gently rake mulch from rows with a rake, careful not to damage emerged shoots.
• Mulch can be left between rows – it will serve as a weed barrier and conserve moisture, but no longer hinder row warming.
• In southern regions with early warm springs, remove mulch completely to allow faster soil warming.
• In cold regions with prolonged spring, leave a thin layer (1–2 cm) to protect seedlings from return frosts, but ensure it does not impede warming.

Exception: If you used a thin layer (1.5–2 cm) of peat or compost that has already decomposed over winter, you can leave it and simply work it into the soil during cultivation. But make sure it does not form a dense crust.

First Fertilisation: Nitrogen for a Fast Start

Garlic responds well to nitrogen fertilisers in spring. After winter dormancy, plants need a rapid start to build leaf mass. The more leaves, the larger the head (Torikov and Sychev, 2018; Autko et al., 2012).

When to apply the first fertilisation:

• In spring, at the start of field work, garlic plantings are fed with nitrogen fertilisers at N25–30 (Autko et al., 2012).
• The second nitrogen fertilisation is given when plants reach a height of 15–18 cm (Autko et al., 2012).
• For the gardener: apply the first fertilisation immediately after rows are visible and shoots appear (usually 1–2 weeks after snowmelt), and the second 3–4 weeks later, when plants reach 10–15 cm in height.

Which fertilisers to use:

• Nitrogen: urea, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulphate (contains sulphur, which is beneficial for garlic).
• Compound: complete mineral fertiliser (N:P:K) with a bias toward nitrogen – e.g., 20:10:10 or 15:10:15.
• For garlic in spring, nitrogen should be in readily available (nitrate) form. Ammonium nitrate and urea are suitable.

Approximate rates for the home gardener (per 1 m²):

• Urea: 10–15 g/m² (1–1.5 tablespoons)
• Ammonium nitrate: 15–20 g/m² (1.5–2 tablespoons)
• Compound fertiliser (20:10:10): 20–25 g/m²

Important: nitrogen fertilisers should not be buried deep – scatter them on the surface between rows and incorporate by cultivation (to a depth of 3–5 cm), or water in with solution.

Why nitrogen is so important in spring:

• In early growth, garlic actively builds leaves – the assimilatory apparatus. The larger the leaf area, the more photosynthesis, and the more plastic substances flow to the forming head.
• Nitrogen is a key element for protein and chlorophyll formation. Without it, leaves pale, growth slows, and heads form small.
• Research shows that in garlic, as in onion, bulb and clove formation occurs during the period of rapid leaf growth (Meshkov et al., 2017). The outflow of substances from leaves to cloves is less intense than in onion, so it is especially important to ensure good leaf growth early in the season.

Additional: In Belarus, during clove initiation (II–III decade of May), a foliar fertilisation with compound fertiliser Ecolist RK is carried out at 9 L/ha (Autko et al., 2012). For the gardener, this can be replaced by spraying leaves with a solution of compound fertiliser with micronutrients or humates – this gives a quick effect and improves head quality.

Watering: Regime and Features

Garlic is sensitive to soil moisture, especially during active leaf growth and clove formation (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

When to water in spring:

• If winter was dry and spring is dry, watering is needed from the very beginning of growth.
• Usually the first watering is given immediately after emergence if the soil is dry.
• In regions with sufficient spring rainfall, watering is not needed – excess moisture is harmful.

Watering regime:

• In May–June, if moisture is lacking, water (preferably in the evening) at 150–200 m³/ha (Autko et al., 2012). For the gardener, this is about 15–20 L/m² (one bucket per 1 m²) per watering.
• Frequency depends on weather: in dry spring – once every 5–7 days; in moderate – once every 10–14 days.
• After watering, when the soil has slightly dried, loosen the bed surface with a cultivator or hoe (Autko et al., 2012).

Why garlic is sensitive to moisture:

• The root system of garlic is poorly developed and does not penetrate deeply (the bulk of roots lies at 25–30 cm) (Autko et al., 2012). Therefore, the plant cannot extract moisture from deep layers – it must be in the upper horizon.
• The critical period for winter garlic in spring occurs during intensive leaf growth – at the end of the first month after emergence (Autko et al., 2012).
• Excess moisture at the end of the growing season delays bulb maturity (Autko et al., 2012), so by mid‑summer watering is reduced or stopped.

Signs of moisture deficit:

• Leaves become small, pale, lose turgor (wilt)
• Leaf tips turn yellow
• Growth slows
• Bulb forms small, cloves loose

Signs of excess moisture:

• Leaves become dark green, may yellow at the base
• In wet weather, signs of fungal diseases appear (rust, Fusarium)
• Bulbs may rot

Cultivation: First and Subsequent

Cultivation (loosening) is a mandatory care practice for garlic, as it improves soil aeration, destroys weeds, and conserves moisture.

First cultivation:

• Carry out as soon as rows are visible, immediately after mulch removal or soon after (Autko et al., 2012).
• Depth of inter‑row cultivation – 4–5 cm.
• Can be combined with the first fertilisation by incorporating fertilisers into the soil.

Subsequent cultivations:

• Thereafter, shallow (3–5 cm) inter‑row cultivation and weeding are done (Autko et al., 2012).
• Over the season, 3–5 cultivations are carried out, depending on weediness and crust formation.
• Cultivation is done after each watering or heavy rain, when the soil has slightly dried, to break the crust.

Why cultivation is important:

• Garlic roots require a lot of oxygen. Compacted soil causes oxygen starvation, growth slows, and heads become smaller.
• Cultivation destroys young weeds at an early stage, before they strongly compete with garlic.
• Breaking the soil crust conserves moisture, reducing the need for watering.

Protection from Return Frosts

Spring frosts are a serious threat to winter garlic, especially during active leaf growth. Although garlic is cold‑tolerant (seedlings tolerate frosts down to -3…-5 °C) (Torikov and Sychev, 2018), strong and prolonged frosts can damage leaves and slow growth.

What threatens garlic in spring:

• Young leaves just beginning to grow are most vulnerable to frost.
• Especially dangerous are return frosts after warm weather, when plants are already growing actively.
• Damaged leaves do not recover, reducing photosynthetic productivity and decreasing head size.

How to protect:

• Mulch – a thin layer (1–2 cm) of peat or compost left in spring provides additional insulation for roots and leaf bases.
• Cover with agrofabric (spunbond, lutrasil) – if strong frosts are forecast (below -5 °C), cover the bed with thin agrotextile overnight. Remove during the day to avoid overheating.
• Watering – on the eve of frost, evening watering (sprinkling) can raise the temperature near the soil surface by 2–3 °C due to heat release during condensation. This works with light, short frosts (down to -3 °C).
• Smoke – on small holdings, smoke screens can be used (burning damp material in the morning), but this is effective only with light frosts and calm weather.

Important: after frost, inspect plants. If leaf tips have yellowed or blackened, it is not serious – only the tip is damaged, the plant will recover. If the bases of leaves are damaged, yield loss is inevitable.

Weed Control in Spring

In spring, weeds grow very actively, and garlic in its initial growth phase is still weak and easily suppressed.

Control methods:

• Hand weeding – most effective on small plots, but labour‑intensive. Do when garlic has 2–4 true leaves.
• Inter‑row cultivation – destroys weeds between rows. If using the twin‑row pattern (15+55 cm), wide inter‑rows are easy to work with a hoe or flat cutter.
• Mulching (if you left mulch between rows) – suppresses weed germination. You can additionally mulch between rows with straw or mown grass.
• Herbicides – usually not used by home gardeners or small farmers. But in commercial production, herbicides such as Stomp (2.3–4.5 L/ha) before emergence, or Reglon (2 L/ha) 2–3 days before emergence, are used (Torikov and Sychev, 2018). In amateur gardening, it is better to rely on mechanical methods.

Timing: It is important to remove weeds before they develop strongly and begin competing with garlic for light, moisture, and nutrients. Usually 2–3 weedings per season suffice.

Monitoring Plant Health in Spring

In spring, regularly inspect plantings to detect problems early.

What to look for:

Tip: Keep a small observation diary – it helps to notice deviations in time and take action.

Practical Spring Work Calendar

Head Formation: When and How It Happens

In winter garlic, clove initiation begins in late May – early June, about 1.5–2 months after spring regrowth. In Belarus, for example, this period occurs in the II–III decade of May (Autko et al., 2012).

Stages of head formation:

1. Intensive leaf growth phase – April–May. The plant builds leaf mass; active photosynthesis occurs in leaves, accumulating plastic substances.

2. Initiation of cloves – late May. In the leaf axils (on the basal plate), primordia of future cloves begin to form. At this moment, the number of cloves in the head is set.

3. Bulking and growth of cloves – June – early July. Reserve substances from senescing leaves flow into the developing cloves. The head grows and firms up. In bolting varieties, the scape grows actively during this period.

4. Ripening – mid‑ to late July. Leaves yellow and lodge, covering scales of the head dry and become dense, the head reaches final size.

What the gardener should know:

• Clove formation occurs at 15–20 °C, ripening at 20–25 °C (Autko et al., 2012). If summer is cool, ripening is delayed, and bulbs may not form fully.
• The number of cloves per head is a varietal trait, but it is influenced by growing conditions: nutrition, moisture, temperature, planting time.
• Non‑bolting varieties have more cloves per head (up to 20–30), but they are smaller. Bolting varieties have fewer (6–10) but larger.
• Outflow of substances from leaves to cloves is less intense in garlic than in onion, so it is important to preserve leaf mass as long as possible (Meshkov et al., 2017).

Summer Watering: The Critical Period

Summer watering is the most important for forming large heads. It is in June (during active clove growth) that garlic is most demanding of moisture.

When to water:

• In May–June, if moisture is lacking, water (preferably in the evening) at 150–200 m³/ha (Autko et al., 2012). For the gardener, this is about 15–20 L/m² (1.5–2 buckets per 1 m²) per watering.
• The critical period for winter garlic in summer occurs during intensive clove and scape growth, 10–15 days after their initiation (Autko et al., 2012).
• In dry years, watering may be needed every 5–7 days. In rainy summers – less often or not at all.

When to stop watering:

• Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest. This allows heads to mature, covering scales to dry and become firm, improving storability.
• Excess moisture at the end of the growing season delays bulb maturity (Autko et al., 2012; Brewster, 2008). In wet soil, bulbs may continue to grow, but their scales do not dry in time, leading to rot during storage.
• Also, excess moisture favours fungal diseases (Fusarium, white rot) in the pre‑harvest period.

How to know when to stop watering:

• Lower leaves begin to yellow – the first sign of ripening
• Stems become softer, lose rigidity
• Scapes (if not removed) straighten and begin to open
• Time – about 2–3 weeks before planned harvest

Important: If summer is very dry, do not stop watering abruptly, but reduce volume and frequency gradually over 3–4 weeks. Abrupt cessation in extreme heat causes stress and may crack scales.

Summer Fertilisation: Phosphorus and Potassium for Heads

Unlike spring fertilisation, which emphasises nitrogen for leaf growth, summer focus shifts to phosphorus and potassium – elements responsible for head formation and quality.

When and what to feed:

1. At the start of clove formation (late May – early June):

• Apply complete mineral fertiliser with predominance of phosphorus and potassium (N:P:K = 10:20:20 or 8:20:20).
• For the gardener: 15–20 g/m² of compound fertiliser with N:P:K about 1:2:2.
• Special fertilisers for allium crops can be used.
• In Belarus during this period, a foliar fertilisation with compound fertiliser Ecolist RK is carried out at 9 L/ha (Autko et al., 2012). For the gardener – spray leaves with a solution of compound fertiliser with micronutrients.

2. After 2–3 weeks (during active bulking):

• Second fertilisation – only potassium‑phosphorus (no nitrogen). For example, potassium sulphate + superphosphate.
• For the gardener: 10–15 g/m² potassium sulphate and 15–20 g/m² superphosphate.
• Potassium is especially important for forming dense, well‑storing heads. Phosphorus – for root development and quality ripening.

Why limit nitrogen in summer:

• Nitrogen stimulates leaf growth at the expense of head formation. If you apply too much nitrogen in June–July, garlic will “fatten”: leaves large and green, but heads small and loose.
• Excess nitrogen at the end of the growing season delays ripening, reduces storability, and increases disease risk.
• Therefore, summer fertilisation should have minimal or no nitrogen.

Forms of fertilisers for the gardener:

• It is better to use water‑soluble fertilisers (root drench) – they are absorbed faster.
• Dry fertilisers are incorporated into soil during cultivation, but in dry weather they must be watered in.
• Foliar fertilisation (leaf spraying) gives a quick effect and is recommended under stress conditions (drought, damage).

Cultivation and Weed Control in Summer

In summer, weeds grow particularly vigorously, and if not removed, they compete with garlic for moisture and nutrients, significantly reducing yield.

Frequency and depth:

• In summer, shallow (3–5 cm) inter‑row cultivation is done (Autko et al., 2012). The main goal is to break soil crust and destroy weeds, not deep cultivation which may damage roots.
• Overall, 3–5 cultivations are done per season, depending on weediness and crust formation.
• After each watering or heavy rain, when soil has slightly dried, cultivate to prevent crust formation (Autko et al., 2012).

Features:

• Hilling up garlic is undesirable, as it leads to elongation of bulbs. During inter‑row cultivation, avoid covering plants (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).
• During active growth (May–June), cultivation must be especially careful to avoid damaging the root system, which lies shallow (25–30 cm) (Autko et al., 2012).
• In July, when heads are already formed, cultivation can be stopped, as roots begin to die and cultivation may damage ripening heads.

Alternatives to hand weeding:

• Mulching between rows with straw, mown grass, or compost. This suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, and reduces cultivation needs.
• Using black agrofabric (spunbond) – on small beds this can be justified but requires correct laying and anchoring.

Monitoring Plant Health

In summer, regularly inspect plantings to spot signs of disease or nutrient deficiencies.

Main problems and their signs:

Disease Protection in Summer

In summer, especially in wet weather, garlic is affected by fungal diseases (rust, downy mildew, Fusarium, white rot). It is important for the gardener to know basic prevention and control measures.

Prevention:

• Observe crop rotation – return garlic to the same place no earlier than after 4–5 years (Autko et al., 2012). This reduces pathogen accumulation in soil.
• Remove and burn plant residues after harvest (Torikov and Sychev, 2018). This removes pathogen food sources.
• Avoid excessive watering and dense planting – density creates a humid microclimate favourable for diseases.
• Timely weed removal – many weeds are reservoirs of pathogens.

Biological methods:

• Plant garlic after crops that improve soil health (green manures, legumes, brassicas).
• Use healthy planting material (Chapter 2).
• Apply biological products (Fitosporin, Trichoderma) – they suppress fungal disease development.

If necessary – fungicides:

• For home gardeners and small farmers, copper‑based preparations (Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride) are acceptable for protection against downy mildew and rust.
• Strictly observe waiting periods (PHI) before harvest, as indicated on the label.

Signs of Readiness for Harvest

Knowing when heads are mature helps harvest on time and avoid losses. Main signs of maturity in winter garlic (Autko et al., 2012):

1. Yellowing and drying of leaves – lower leaves yellow and dry, upper begin to lodge. In non‑bolting varieties, leaves lodge (Autko et al., 2012).

2. Cracking of the inflorescence wrapper in bolting varieties – on some plants, the wrapper begins to crack (Autko et al., 2012). This is a reliable sign of ripening. If scapes were removed, rely on leaf yellowing.

3. Change in bulbil colour (if scapes left) – they become characteristic of the variety and detach easily.

4. Dry, firm covering scales of the head – the head is hard to the touch, scales dry and tightly adhering. If unsure, dig up a couple of heads and inspect.

5. Timing: usually 100–110 days after emergence (Autko et al., 2012). Depending on zone and variety, harvest occurs in the II–III decade of July.

Important: Harvest garlic on time. If harvesting is delayed, covering scales break down, especially in wet weather, and bulbs fall apart during digging, leading to losses (Autko et al., 2012). Early harvest is also harmful: immature bulbs store poorly and do not separate easily into cloves, causing difficulties when preparing them for planting (Autko et al., 2012).

Practical Summer Work Calendar

Why Garlic Bolts

Bolting is an evolutionary mechanism preserved in garlic. In the wild, it ensured reproduction: instead of seeds (which garlic lost as a cultivated plant), aerial bulbils form in the inflorescence. They fall, root, and give rise to new plants.

What happens during bolting:

• In bolting varieties, an inflorescence forms at the tip of the scape – a spherical umbel covered with a dense spathe with a characteristic elongated tip (Autko et al., 2012).
• On the surface of the inflorescence, between the pedicels of the buds, vigorous growth of aerial bulbils occurs. The growth of flower buds is suppressed; they dry up without opening and give way to bulbils (Autko et al., 2012).
• The number of bulbils depends on variety and growing conditions – from a few to 350–400 (Autko et al., 2012). The fewer bulbils in the inflorescence, the larger they are.

Botanically: the scape is a generative shoot, on which the plant spends a significant part of accumulated plastic substances. These substances could have gone into the head – increasing the size and weight of cloves.

Effect of Scapes on Yield

Research clearly shows: removing scapes increases garlic yield by 20–30 % (Autko et al., 2012).

Why so significant:

• The scape consumes up to 20–30 % of assimilates (photosynthetic products) that could flow to the bulb.
• Formation of inflorescences and bulbils requires a lot of energy: a garlic inflorescence can contain up to 350–400 bulbils, each needing nourishment (Autko et al., 2012).
• If the scape is removed at an early stage, all resources are directed to clove growth – the head becomes larger, denser, better ripened, and stores better.

Experimental data:

• In Belarus, this practice (removing scapes after they have grown to 10–12 cm) increased yield by 20–30 % (Autko et al., 2012).
• The effect is especially significant on varieties with a tall scape and many very small bulbils (Autko et al., 2012).
• In such varieties, losses of underground bulb weight when inflorescences are left are greater than in varieties with a low scape and few bulbils (Autko et al., 2012).

For the gardener this means: if you are growing garlic for large marketable heads, scape removal is mandatory. If garlic is for greens or if you are propagating a valuable variety via bulbils, scapes may be left.

When to Remove Scapes

Optimal time: after the scape has grown to 10–12 cm, before it curls into a loop (Autko et al., 2012).

Why this timing:

• When the scape is 10–12 cm and not yet looped, it has not yet drawn significant amounts of nutrients from the bulb.
• If you remove too early (when it first appears), you may damage the growing point and slow plant development.
• If removed too late (after looping), a significant portion of assimilates has already been spent on its growth, and the benefit of removal is smaller.

How to determine the moment:

• The scape appears from the axil of the last leaf (usually late May – early June)
• It has grown 10–15 cm above the plant
• It has not yet started to coil into a spiral
• The scape is firm, succulent to the touch

Approximate timing by region:

• Southern regions: late May
• Temperate climate: early – mid‑June
• Cold regions: mid‑late June

How to Remove Scapes

The removal technique is simple but requires care.

Method 1. Breaking (snapping):

• Grasp the scape with fingers at its base (in the axil of the last leaf)
• With a sharp motion, break it sideways
• Do not pull upward – you may damage the bulb and pull it out of the ground
• Work with clean hands to avoid introducing infection

Method 2. Cutting:

• Use a sharp clean knife or secateurs to cut the scape at its base
• Leave a small stub (0.5–1 cm) – do not cut flush with leaves to avoid damaging the false stem
• Cut in dry weather so wounds heal faster

What not to do:

• Do not pull the scape upward – you may uproot the bulb
• Do not break too close to leaves – you may damage the growing point
• Do not leave long stubs – they consume nutrients and may rot
• Do not remove scapes in wet weather – wounds heal slowly and may become infected

What to do with removed scapes:

• Scapes can be eaten – they are succulent, with a mild garlic flavour. They can be fried, pickled, added to salads, soups, used as seasoning.
• Scapes contain the same beneficial compounds as cloves, but with more fibre.
• Young scapes (before looping) are a delicacy. They are often used in Asian cuisine, in the Mediterranean.

When to Leave Scapes

There are situations where scapes are left for specific purposes.

1. To obtain aerial bulbils.

This is the main method of propagation and variety rejuvenation.

Why leave scapes:

• Growing from bulbils allows you to preserve and restore varieties affected by nematodes, since this pest, while attacking the basal plate, does not affect the inflorescence (Autko et al., 2012).
• Bulbils provide healthy planting material, free from many diseases.
• The multiplication rate using bulbils increases 10–15 times compared to cloves (Autko et al., 2012). This is especially important if you want to rapidly propagate a valuable variety.

How to collect bulbils:

• Scapes are cut when the inflorescence wrapper cracks (Autko et al., 2012).
• Cut scapes are ripened under cover (in a dry, ventilated place) (Autko et al., 2012).
• Do not delay harvesting the scapes: aerial bulbs easily shed, and some of the largest bulbils are lost (Autko et al., 2012).
• After drying, bulbils are rubbed from the inflorescences, winnowed, and calibrated after 25–30 days. For planting, use large, well‑developed bulbils (Autko et al., 2012).

2. To propagate a rare or valuable variety when planting material is limited.

Growing from bulbils gives a lot of healthy planting material over two years (first year – sets, second – full heads).

3. If you do not aim to produce large marketable heads (e.g., for greens or personal use where size is not critical).

4. For ornamental purposes – garlic inflorescences are attractive and can beautify the garden (especially in decorative varieties).

What About Non‑Bolting Varieties?

Non‑bolting varieties (both winter and spring) do not produce scapes. These are varieties that have lost the ability to bolt through breeding. They reproduce only by cloves. Such varieties are easier to manage – no need to spend time removing scapes. However, they usually have a lower multiplication rate and do not produce bulbils for rejuvenation.

For the gardener this means:

• If you buy a non‑bolting variety, scape removal is not required (there are none).
• If the variety is bolting, scape removal is mandatory for large heads.
• You can combine: leave some scapes for bulbils and remove the rest to increase yield of main heads.

Practical Table: To Remove or Not?

Practical Summary

1. Remove scapes from bolting varieties if your goal is large marketable heads. This increases yield by 20–30 % (Autko et al., 2012).

2. Remove at the correct time – when the scape is 10–12 cm long, before it loops (Autko et al., 2012).

3. Remove properly – snap or cut at the base, without damaging leaves or pulling the bulb.

4. Do not remove – if you need bulbils for propagation or rejuvenation. In that case, leave a few of the strongest scapes.

5. Use removed scapes in cooking – they are tasty and nutritious, do not throw them away.

6. Remember: non‑bolting varieties have no scapes – that is normal.

Mistake 1. Wrong Planting Time

The most dangerous of all mistakes. Planting time affects not only yield but the very possibility of overwintering.

What is done wrong:

• Planting too early (in September, while still warm) – cloves sprout before winter.
• Planting too late (when soil has cooled below +5 °C) – cloves do not have time to root.
• Planting “by mood”, without considering weather and region.

Why this is a mistake:

• Early planting – garlic starts growing, produces green leaves, enters winter weakened and often freezes (Autko et al., 2012).
• Late planting – cloves do not root, are not anchored in soil, freeze or heave.

How to do it right:

• Plant 3–4 weeks before persistent frosts.
• Rely on soil temperature at 5 cm depth: it should be +8…+10 °C.
• Consider your region’s climate (Chapter 3).

Mistake 2. Using Poor‑Quality Planting Material

Many gardeners skimp on planting material, using small or damaged cloves, or material from questionable sources.

What is done wrong:

• Planting small cloves (less than 1 g) – they produce small heads.
• Using cloves with damage, signs of disease, from diseased heads.
• Taking planting material from varieties not adapted to local climate (e.g., southern varieties in cold regions where they freeze).

Why this is a mistake:

• Large cloves produce large heads – proven by research (Brewster, 2008). Small planting material cannot produce a large bulb.
• Even healthy‑looking cloves from diseased bulbs must not be used – the disease is already inside and will appear after planting (Autko et al., 2012).
• Unadapted varieties may not survive local winters or give low yields.

How to do it right:

• Select the largest and medium‑sized bulbs, and from them large cloves (Autko et al., 2012).
• Carefully inspect each head and reject any with signs of disease.
• Use varieties recommended for your region.
• If in doubt about quality – buy planting material from trusted producers.

Mistake 3. Too Shallow or Too Deep Planting

Depth is the second most important factor after timing. Mistakes here almost always lead to losses.

What is done wrong:

• Planting less than 2 cm deep – too shallow.
• Planting more than 6 cm deep – too deep.
• Not considering soil type when choosing depth.

Why this is a mistake:

• Shallow planting – clove in freezing zone – freezes, and in spring heaves. In quickly drying top layer, some cloves fail to germinate (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).
• Deep planting – clove takes long to emerge, spends energy, head forms elongated and stores poorly (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

How to do it right:

• Standard depth – 3–4 cm from the top of the clove to soil surface (Autko et al., 2012; Torikov and Sychev, 2018).
• On light sandy soils and in cold regions – 4–5 cm.
• On heavy clay soils – 3–4 cm (not deeper to avoid rotting).

Mistake 4. Incorrect Clove Orientation

Clove planted “anyhow” – sideways, basal plate up, or off vertical.

What is done wrong:

• Pressing clove into soil without checking orientation.
• On large areas, relying on a seeder without checking.

Why this is a mistake:

• Roots only grow from the basal plate. With wrong orientation, roots grow sideways or upward, plant distorts, head forms irregularly, and sometimes does not develop at all.
• With mechanised planting, the proportion of wrongly oriented cloves can reach 15–27 %, reducing germination (Autko et al., 2012).

How to do it right:

• Plant cloves strictly vertical, basal plate down, tip up.
• On small plots (up to 1–3 ha), hand planting is better – it guarantees correct orientation of every clove (Autko et al., 2012).

Mistake 5. No Mulching or Wrong Mulch

Many underestimate the importance of mulch, considering it optional.

What is done wrong:

• Not mulching at all.
• Using too thick a layer (more than 10 cm) or too thin (less than 1 cm).
• Using unsuitable materials (fresh sawdust, fresh manure, diseased foliage).

Why this is a mistake:

• Without mulch, garlic tolerates snowless frosts poorly, roots freeze more.
• Too thick a layer leads to damping‑off and rotting in wet regions (Autko et al., 2012).
• Fresh sawdust binds nitrogen, impairing plant nutrition. Fresh manure delays vegetation and prevents ripening (Autko et al., 2012).

How to do it right:

• Mulch plantings with a layer of 1.5–2 cm (peat, compost) or 5–10 cm (straw, leaves) (Autko et al., 2012).
• Use only well‑rotted materials (compost, aged sawdust, dry healthy straw).
• In regions with heavy snow cover, use light, loose mulch (straw, pine needles) to avoid damping‑off.
• In spring, remove or thin mulch (Autko et al., 2012).

Mistake 6. Improper Watering

Unskilled watering is a common cause of diseases and small heads.

What is done wrong:

• Watering too often, creating excess moisture.
• Stopping watering too early (before head formation is complete) or too late (one week before harvest).
• Watering during the day in hot weather, causing leaf burns.

Why this is a mistake:

• Excess moisture at the end of the growing season delays bulb maturity, reduces storability, and promotes fungal diseases (Autko et al., 2012; Brewster, 2008).
• Premature cessation of watering stops bulking – heads form small.
• Watering in heat causes burns from water droplets acting as lenses.

How to do it right:

• In May–June, if moisture is lacking, water at 15–20 L/m² (Autko et al., 2012). Frequency depends on weather (1 time every 5–14 days).
• Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest (Autko et al., 2012).
• Water in the evening or early morning so leaves dry before night.

Mistake 7. Incorrect Fertilisation (Especially Nitrogen in Summer)

Garlic is sensitive to nutrition, and nutrient imbalance strongly affects yield.

What is done wrong:

• Applying nitrogen fertiliser in summer, during head formation.
• Applying fertilisers without considering growth stages.
• Using only one type of fertiliser (only nitrogen or only organics).

Why this is a mistake:

• Excess nitrogen in June–July promotes leaf growth (“fattening”) at the expense of head formation. Bulbs become loose, small, store poorly.
• Deficiency of phosphorus and potassium during bulking leads to small and poorly ripening cloves.
• Organics without mineral supplements do not always provide balanced nutrition.

How to do it right:

• In spring – nitrogen fertilisation for leaf growth (N25–30) (Autko et al., 2012).
• During clove initiation (late May – June) – compound fertilisers with predominance of phosphorus and potassium (N:P:K = 1:2:2).
• During bulking – potassium‑phosphorus fertilisation without nitrogen (potassium sulphate + superphosphate).
• Use micronutrients (boron, zinc, copper, manganese) as foliar applications (Autko et al., 2012).

Mistake 8. Untimely Scape Removal

Many gardeners do not remove scapes or do it incorrectly.

What is done wrong:

• Not removing scapes at all.
• Removing too late (when scape has already looped).
• Removing too early (damaging the growing point).
• Pulling scapes, damaging the bulb.

Why this is a mistake:

• Left scapes reduce yield by 20–30 % (Autko et al., 2012), because inflorescence and bulbil formation consumes up to 20–30 % of assimilates.
• Late removal – benefit is reduced, part of resources already spent.
• Early removal may damage the growing point and slow development.
• Pulling scape may uproot the bulb or damage the basal plate.

How to do it right:

• Remove scapes when they are 10–12 cm long, before they loop (Autko et al., 2012).
• Carefully break or cut at base, without damaging leaves.
• Do not pull – only break or cut.
• If you need bulbils – leave a few of the strongest scapes for propagation (Autko et al., 2012).

Mistake 9. Ignoring Diseases

Garlic is affected by Fusarium, rust, downy mildew, white rot and other diseases. Many do not notice the first signs until it is too late.

What is done wrong:

• Not inspecting plantings regularly.
• Not taking action at first signs of disease.
• Using diseased planting material.
• Violating crop rotation – planting garlic in the same place for years.

Why this is a mistake:

• Fusarium and white rot are soil‑borne diseases that accumulate with continuous garlic cultivation.
• Advanced diseases lead to plant death or total crop loss.
• Treatment at late stages is ineffective.

How to do it right:

• Follow crop rotation – return garlic to the same place no earlier than after 4–5 years (Autko et al., 2012).
• Use only healthy planting material and disinfect before planting (Autko et al., 2012; Kemble, 2022).
• Regularly inspect plantings and at first signs of disease remove affected plants.
• Remove and burn plant residues after harvest (Torikov and Sychev, 2018).

Mistake 10. Wrong Preceding Crops

Garlic grows poorly after certain crops.

What is done wrong:

• Planting garlic after potatoes, onions, garlic.
• Planting after crops treated with herbicides with residual effect (potatoes, maize, peas, sunflower, perennial grasses) (Autko et al., 2012).
• Planting garlic in the same place for several years.

Why this is a mistake:

• Potatoes are a bad predecessor for garlic – after them, garlic is more affected by Fusarium and sometimes nematode (Autko et al., 2012).
• Herbicides with long residual effect can damage garlic seedlings (Autko et al., 2012).
• Continuous cultivation in one place leads to disease accumulation and soil depletion.

How to do it right:

• Best predecessors – winter rye, annual grasses for green forage, cucumbers, early and cauliflower, squash, pumpkin, table root crops (harvested as bunching produce) (Autko et al., 2012).
• Do not plant garlic after potatoes, onions, garlic (Autko et al., 2012).
• Return garlic to the same place no earlier than after 4–5 years (Autko et al., 2012).

Mistake 11. Untimely Harvest

Harvest is the final stage, and mistakes here undo all previous efforts.

What is done wrong:

• Harvesting too early (immature heads).
• Harvesting too late (heads overripe and fall apart).
• Not checking readiness, relying only on calendar.

Why this is a mistake:

• Immature bulbs store poorly, do not separate easily into cloves, causing difficulties in preparing them for planting (Autko et al., 2012).
• If harvesting is delayed, covering scales break down, especially in wet weather, and bulbs fall apart during digging, leading to losses (Autko et al., 2012).

How to do it right:

• Harvest at signs of maturity: yellowing and drying of leaves, lodging of leaves (in non‑bolting), cracking of inflorescence wrapper in bolting (Autko et al., 2012).
• Harvest in dry weather (Autko et al., 2012).
• Do not delay after maturity – harvest within 1–2 weeks.

Mistake 12. Improper Drying and Storage

Even high‑quality garlic can be ruined by improper drying and storage.

What is done wrong:

• Drying garlic in the sun (burns, “tan”).
• Not drying at all (wet heads quickly rot).
• Storing in damp or too warm conditions.
• Storing table and seed garlic together under the same conditions.

Why this is a mistake:

• Wet heads in storage are affected by fungal diseases (rot, mould).
• At high temperature, seed garlic sprouts and loses germination.
• At too low temperature, seed garlic may not undergo vernalisation.

How to do it right:

• Dry garlic in a dry, well‑ventilated shed or under cover (Autko et al., 2012).
• For table garlic: optimal storage temperature 0 °C, humidity 75–80 % (Autko et al., 2012).
• For seed garlic (selected for autumn planting): store at relatively low positive temperatures (about 8–10 °C) and humidity 70–75 % (Autko et al., 2012). At higher temperatures, garlic dries and sprouts, losses reach 50 % or more (Autko et al., 2012).

Final Summary: Ten Commandments of Winter Garlic

1. Plant on time – 3–4 weeks before frost, at soil temperature +8…+10 °C.

2. Choose healthy and large cloves – do not take even healthy‑looking ones from diseased heads.

3. Plant at 3–4 cm depth – not shallower or deeper.

4. Orient clove basal plate down – strictly vertical.

5. Mulch without fail – peat, compost, straw.

6. Give nitrogen in spring – for rapid leaf growth.

7. Give phosphorus and potassium in summer – for large heads.

8. Remove scapes in good time – before they loop (unless you need bulbils).

9. Follow crop rotation – return to the same place after 4–5 years.

10. Harvest on time and dry correctly – do not overripen, do not delay drying.

By following these rules, you will obtain consistently high yields of large, healthy, well‑storing winter garlic, even if you are a home gardener with a small plot.

Happy harvests!