Harvesting and storing

1. Condition of the Leaves

This is the most noticeable sign. Garlic maturation is accompanied by the translocation of nutrients from the leaves into the bulb, causing them to turn yellow and lodge.

• For winter bolting varieties: Mass yellowing and drying of the leaves. The false stem becomes soft at the base, and the leaves lie down on the ground.
• For spring (non‑bolting) varieties: The leaves also turn yellow and lodge (Balashev and Zeman, 1981; Autko et al., 2012).

However, do not wait until all leaves are completely yellow. The optimal moment is when the lower leaves are fully dried and yellowed, the middle ones are beginning to yellow, and the upper ones are still green. According to some research, the number of green leaves is a very good indicator. Harvest when the plant has about 5‑6 green leaves left. This ensures that enough dense wrapper scales have formed on the bulb (Engeland, 1991).

2. Condition of the Scapes (for Bolting Varieties)

This is the most accurate indicator for winter garlic.

• A scape (flower stalk) develops an inflorescence with aerial bulbils.
• The signal to harvest is the cracking of the spathe (the sheath covering the bulbils) on individual plants.
• At the same time, the scapes themselves begin to turn yellow (Autko et al., 2012; Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

This sign is something of a “gold standard” for bolting varieties. As soon as the spathe has burst and the scape begins to dry, it is time to prepare for harvest.

3. Condition of the Bulb

The most reliable method, but it requires “surgical intervention” – you need to dig up 2‑3 sample bulbs.

• Outer scales: They should be dry, firm, and have the characteristic colour of the variety (e.g., white, purple, or with a pinkish tint) (Brewster, 2008).
• Internal state: Cut a bulb crosswise. In a mature garlic, the cloves are well‑formed, juicy, tightly pressed against each other, and the clove skins fit tightly around them (Engeland, 1991). If the cloves are “falling apart” or the skins come off easily, the garlic is overripe.
• Separation from the basal plate: In mature garlic, the cloves separate easily from each other and from the basal plate.

What Happens if You Get the Timing Wrong?

• Early harvest: Bulbs are small, with thin, loose wrapper scales. They store poorly, quickly shrivel, and are susceptible to diseases.
• Late harvest: The wrapper scales crack, and the bulb “shatters” into individual cloves right in the soil. Moreover, in wet weather, new roots may start growing from the basal plate, which significantly reduces storage life. Such garlic is difficult to clean and is almost unsuitable for long‑term storage (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Remember: it is better to harvest a little early than a little late. Under‑ripe garlic can still be “finished” with proper curing, but overripe garlic cannot be saved.

Great, let’s continue. In the previous chapter we covered the signs by which you can determine garlic maturity. Now we move on to practice and answer the main question of this chapter.

1. Daily Monitoring

About 2‑3 weeks before the expected harvest time (usually late June – July), start inspecting the beds daily. Variety characteristics and weather introduce their own variations, so only regular observation will allow you not to miss the optimal moment.

• Watch for leaf lodging. Mass lodging and yellowing of leaves is a key signal. However, as noted earlier, it is better to rely on the condition of the leaves rather than their complete drying. As soon as you notice that the lower leaves have yellowed and the tips of the middle leaves are starting to turn yellow, it is time to move to the next step (Engeland, 1991).
• Observe the scapes (for winter varieties). This is the easiest and most accurate method. As soon as the spathes begin to crack on 2‑3 plants and the scapes turn yellow, harvesting becomes a top priority (Autko et al., 2012).

2. Sample Digging

The most reliable method is to dig up 2‑3 plants from different parts of the bed every 3‑4 days, starting 2 weeks before the planned harvest. This will help you track the ripening dynamics and not miss the right moment.

• Examine the bulb. Pay attention to the colour and firmness of the wrapper scales. They should easily separate from the top layer of soil and have the characteristic colour of the variety (Brewster, 2008).
• Cut the bulb lengthwise. In mature garlic, the cloves fill their skins tightly. If you see that the cloves are still loose and the skins have not formed, it is not yet time to harvest (Engeland, 1991).

3. Consider Weather Conditions

Weather is the main factor that shifts harvest dates.

• Rainy and cool summers prolong the growing and ripening period. In such a case, it is worth delaying harvest a little, waiting for clear signs of maturity, even if the calendar says otherwise.
• Hot and dry weather, on the other hand, accelerates ripening. In such conditions, garlic can over‑ripen faster, so it is better to start harvesting a little earlier, when the lower leaves are just beginning to yellow, to avoid bulb cracking.
• Humidity is of great importance. If you delay harvesting in wet weather, it promotes the development of rots and re‑rooting of the bulbs, which drastically reduces their storage ability (Brewster, 2008).

4. A Universal Practical Tip

Experienced gardeners often use the following rule: “Start digging when the spathe of the first bolting garlic has burst.” For non‑bolting varieties, the guide is the moment when the lower 3‑4 leaves are fully yellow, while the upper ones are still green.

Why Is It So Important to Catch the Right Moment?

It all comes down to physiology. During maturation, reserve nutrients – carbohydrates, particularly fructans – actively flow from the leaves into the bulb. At this stage, dense wrapper scales form, which protect the bulb from drying out and from the penetration of pathogens during storage (Brewster, 2008). If you harvest too early, this process is not completed, and the bulb will not store long. If too late, the protective scales begin to break down, and the bulb loses its “packaging.”

Thus, the key to success lies in your attentiveness and regular checks. Do not rely on the calendar; trust your eyes and hands.

1. Why Are Scapes the Best Indicator?

In winter bolting garlic varieties, a flowering shoot (scape) forms, on which an inflorescence with aerial bulbils develops. The maturation of the bulbils is directly linked to the physiological maturation of the whole bulb. Once the inflorescence is fully formed, the plant signals the end of the growing season. At this point, the translocation of nutrients from the leaves to the bulb reaches its peak, and the bulb begins to prepare for the dormant period (Brewster, 2008).

2. How Exactly to Use Scapes as a Harvest Signal?

The main and most accurate sign is the condition of the spathe (the sheath covering the bulbils).

• Initial stage: The spathe is still green and tight. This is a sign that harvest is still a while off.
• Critical stage: The spathe begins to turn yellow, dry, and most importantly, crack on individual plants. As soon as you notice that the spathe has burst on at least one scape, it means the garlic has reached full maturity (Autko et al., 2012; Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• Optimal moment: The best time to harvest is when the spathes have burst on about 2‑3% of the plants. This does not mean you should wait until all scapes burst. If you wait until they burst en masse, the bulbs may over‑ripen and start to split into cloves (Engeland, 1991).

3. What to Do with Scapes Before and During Harvest?

There are two main approaches, both related to your goals.

Approach 1: Removing scapes to increase yield.

This is a classic agronomic practice. If you remove the scapes when they first appear (in the “curling” stage), the plant will direct all its energy into forming a large bulb. Yield can increase by 20‑30% (Autko et al., 2012). In this case, you lose the most accurate maturity indicator, and you will have to rely on leaf condition and sample digging.

Approach 2: Leaving scapes as indicators.

Experienced gardeners often leave 2‑3 scapes on the strongest plants in different parts of the bed. These plants are not removed and are used as “living clocks.” They not only serve as indicators but also provide the opportunity to obtain planting material (bulbils) for variety improvement. The yield on these plants will be slightly smaller, but that is a small price for precision.

Important: Some gardeners make the mistake of breaking out the scapes and then, when the leaves begin to yellow, they are at a loss. If you decide to remove all scapes, be sure to note the date when this was done, and use other signs: yellowing of the lower leaves and sample digging.

4. What to Do with Scapes During Harvest?

If you left some scapes as indicators, during harvest you will see that the scapes on these plants have already yellowed and their spathes have burst. This is your main signal to start harvesting the whole crop.

5. What About Non‑Bolting Varieties (Spring Garlic)?

This method does not work for spring garlic, which usually does not form scapes. For such varieties, the guides are solely the condition of the leaves and root system. Signs of maturity in spring garlic are:

• Mass lodging and yellowing of leaves, especially the lower ones.
• Drying and thinning of the false stem neck.
• Sample digging: the bulb should be firm, with dry wrapper scales, and the cloves should separate easily from each other (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Summary

For winter varieties, the scape is your main assistant. Leave a few scapes as indicators and monitor their condition carefully. As soon as the spathe bursts – prepare to harvest. For spring varieties, use a combination of observations of leaves, the neck, and sample digging. These simple methods will help you harvest at the ideal moment and ensure long‑term storage.

1. Choosing the Weather

This is a critically important point. Harvesting is best done on a dry, sunny day.

• If it is raining or the soil is too wet, wait until it dries out. Wet soil sticks to the bulbs, making them difficult to clean and increasing the risk of damaging the wrapper scales. Moreover, wet bulbs dry worse and are more quickly affected by fungal diseases (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• Harvesting in dry weather allows you to leave the garlic on the bed for initial curing, which is an important step in preparation for storage.

2. Tools

It is categorically not recommended to pull garlic out of the ground by hand, tugging on the tops. This often leads to breaking the stem or damaging the basal plate, making the bulb unfit for long‑term storage.

For harvesting you will need:

• A fork or spade. Forks are preferable because they damage bulbs less. A spade can cut the lower part of the bulb.
• Gardening gloves to protect your hands.
• Boxes or baskets for collecting the harvest.
• Plastic sheeting or tarpaulin (optional) for drying on the ground.

3. Technique for Lifting Bulbs

Proceed carefully and methodically.

1. Undercut the bulb. Gently push the fork into the soil 5‑7 cm from the stem to avoid damaging the bulb. Gently rock and lift the clump of soil together with the plant.

2. Extract the garlic. Holding the stem at the base, carefully lift the bulb out of the soil. Avoid jerking abruptly.

3. Clean off the soil. Gently shake off large lumps of soil from the bulbs. Do not knock them against each other or against hard surfaces – this damages the wrapper scales and can cause micro‑cracks (Engeland, 1991). If soil is stuck, do not try to scrape it off – it will come off during curing.

4. Initial Field Treatment

Immediately after lifting from the ground, it is important to organise initial curing properly.

• Spread the garlic on the ground. Do not leave it in heaps. Lay the plants in one or two layers directly on the bed, with the tops covering the bulbs from direct sunlight. This protects them from sunscald, which can spoil the appearance and cause damage (Engeland, 1991; Brewster, 2008).
• Leave for 3‑7 days. In good dry weather, garlic can be left in the field for initial curing for several days. During this time, the leaves will dry and begin to transfer nutrients to the bulb, and the outer scales will dry and become more dense.
• If rain threatens: If rain is forecast, be sure to gather the garlic under cover or in a well‑ventilated area for further curing. Wet garlic left on the bed is almost a guaranteed loss of the crop to rot (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

5. Mechanised Harvesting (for Small Farms)

For small farms, there is specialised equipment, such as potato diggers with conveyors removed, or special garlic harvesters. Such machines undercut the bulbs and lay them in windrows for curing right in the field. However, with any machinery, it is important to minimise mechanical damage to the bulbs, as it leads to significant storage losses (Autko et al., 2012; Brewster, 2008).

Main Harvesting Mistakes to Avoid:

1. Delaying harvest. Overripe garlic shatters into cloves in the ground, and you lose a significant part of the crop. This happens especially quickly in wet weather (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

2. Pulling by the tops. This almost always leads to breaking the stem or damaging the basal plate, making the bulb unfit for storage.

3. Knocking off soil. By hitting bulbs against each other or hard surfaces, you inflict micro‑injuries that later become entry points for infection.

4. Harvesting in rainy weather. Wet bulbs are very difficult to dry properly, and they often rot during storage.

Brief summary: The correct harvesting technique consists of careful lifting, dry weather, and proper organisation of initial curing. Treat this stage with maximum attention – it is the guarantee that your labour will not be wasted and the garlic will store through the winter.

1. Why Is Curing Necessary?

Curing has several critical purposes:

• Completing maturation: After harvest, the flow of nutrients from the leaves to the bulb continues, which helps form dense, dry wrapper scales.
• Sealing the neck: This is the main purpose. During curing, the neck of the bulb (the junction of the stem and the head) dries and “seals,” becoming impermeable to disease pathogens. This prevents neck rot – one of the most common storage diseases (Brewster, 2008).
• Removing excess moisture: Wet bulbs and roots are an ideal environment for fungal growth. Curing removes this moisture.
• Strengthening wrapper scales: Under the action of heat and air, the outer scales become denser and stronger, protecting the bulb from mechanical damage and drying during storage (Engeland, 1991).

2. Two Stages of Curing

Curing is conventionally divided into two stages: initial (field) and final (indoor).

Stage 1: Initial curing (in the field)

Duration: 3‑7 days depending on the weather.

Conditions: Spread the garlic on the bed in one or two layers, with the tops covering the bulbs from direct sunlight. This prevents sunscald, which can spoil the appearance and cause tissue damage (Engeland, 1991). If rain threatens, be sure to bring the crop under cover (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Important: At this stage, do not trim the roots and tops. Moisture from the stems and roots continues to evaporate, contributing to even drying of the bulb.

Stage 2: Final curing (in a building)

After the outer scales have dried and the stems begin to yellow, move the garlic indoors for final curing.

Optimal conditions:

• Temperature: 25‑30 °C (Brewster, 2008; Engeland, 1991). Some sources mention temperatures up to 35 °C, but it is important to remember that too high a temperature (above 30 °C) immediately after harvest may stimulate sprouting and shorten storage life (Brewster, 2008).
• Humidity: Low (25‑35%). At high humidity, the garlic will not dry out and may become mouldy.
• Ventilation: Very important! Air must circulate freely so that moisture is effectively removed. Good places are covered sheds, attics, barns, or specialised driers.

Duration: Usually 2‑3 weeks. During this time, the necks should be completely dry, firm, and rustling. The leaves and roots become dry and brittle (Engeland, 1991; Autko et al., 2012).

3. Methods of Indoor Curing

Hanging in bunches: Tie 10‑15 plants into a bunch and hang them from the ceiling in a dry, ventilated place. This method provides the best air circulation.

On mesh racks: Spread the garlic on racks with mesh bottoms (e.g., wire mesh) in a single layer, so air passes from both below and above.

Floor driers with active ventilation: This method is used in large operations. Garlic is loaded onto a slatted floor, and warm air is blown through it with fans. This ensures fast and even drying even for large volumes of crop (Autko et al., 2012).

4. Determining Readiness for Storage

How do you know when curing is complete? Evaluate several signs:

• Tops and roots: Stems and roots should be dry, brittle, and easily separate from the bulb with light pressure.
• Neck: The junction of the stem and bulb should be completely dry, firm, and tightly closed. If the neck is soft and moist, the bulb is not ready for storage, and there is a high risk of rot.
• Wrapper scales: Outer scales should be dry, rustling, and tightly envelop the bulb.
• Sound: When handling the bulbs, they should produce a characteristic dry rustle.

5. What to Do with Leaves and Roots?

Final trimming of garlic is done after curing is complete. We will discuss this in the next chapter. But remember: do not trim leaves and roots before the garlic is fully dry – this may prevent the neck from “sealing” properly (Engeland, 1991).

Brief summary: Curing is a critically important stage. It requires a dry, warm, and well‑ventilated place. Do not rush; give the garlic time to dry thoroughly. Ideally, the neck should be completely dry and firm. Proper curing is the main condition for garlic to last until the next harvest.

1. When to Trim?

The most important rule: trim only after curing is completely finished.

If you start trimming too early, when the neck is still moist, you may disrupt the sealing process, opening the way for rot pathogens. Moreover, early trimming does not allow the translocation of nutrients from the leaves to the bulb to complete, which worsens the formation of wrapper scales and reduces storage ability (Engeland, 1991; Brewster, 2008).

The right moment comes when:

• The tops are dry and brittle.
• The neck of the bulb is completely dry, firm, and rustling.
• The wrapper scales have acquired the characteristic colour of the variety and tightly envelop the bulb.

2. Tools

You will need a sharp, clean tool for trimming.

• Secateurs or scissors. Ideal for small volumes. The tool should be sharp to make a clean cut, not “crush” the tissues.
• For large volumes (e.g., with machinery), specialised garlic trimming lines are used, such as the CRF‑13 “ERME” (Autko et al., 2012).

Important: The tool must be clean. This reduces the risk of introducing infection through the fresh cut.

3. How to Trim the Tops?

The length of the remaining “tail” depends on the purpose and storage method.

• For long‑term storage in nets, boxes, and containers: Cut the stem, leaving a stub of 1.5‑2 cm above the shoulders of the bulb (Autko et al., 2012; Balashev and Zeman, 1981). This is enough not to damage the neck and yet does not take up much space during storage.
• For braiding into plaits: For storing garlic in braids, do not trim the tops; leave long stems for plaiting (Engeland, 1991).
• Important: Do not cut the stem too short. If you cut it “flush,” you can damage the upper part of the bulb and open access to infection. The remaining stub provides extra protection.

4. How to Trim the Roots?

Trim the roots cleanly and carefully.

• Recommended method: Cut the roots as close to the basal plate as possible without damaging it (Balashev and Zeman, 1981; Engeland, 1991). You can leave a short “bristle” of 2‑3 mm.
• Why it is needed: Long roots are extra moisture and extra surface for mould to develop. Short‑cropped roots do not add moisture and do not interfere with tight stacking of bulbs.
• Important: Do not damage the basal plate itself. Mechanical damage to the basal plate removes protection and makes the bulb vulnerable to disease.

5. Additional Cleaning

During trimming, it is common to remove one or two upper, dirtiest, or damaged wrapper scales. But here it is important not to overdo it. The more scales left on the bulb, the better it will store (Engeland, 1991). Remove only those scales that come off easily, without exposing the cloves.

6. Why Shouldn’t You Trim Everything at Once?

Some gardeners cut leaves and roots immediately after digging, before curing. This is a serious mistake. Early trimming:

• Prevents the neck from “sealing” properly, leading to rot (Brewster, 2008).
• Impairs the translocation of nutrients from the leaves, so the bulb is less dense and stores less well.
• Roots cut before curing often begin to rot, which can affect the basal plate.

Summary:

Trimming garlic is the final stage of preparation for storage. Carry it out only after complete curing, using a sharp tool. Leave a stem stub of 1.5‑2 cm to protect the neck, and cut the roots at the very base of the basal plate. Remember: careful trimming is an investment in the preservation of your crop for many months.

1. Final Sorting

After trimming, carefully inspect each bulb. This is your last chance to cull specimens that will not survive the winter.

Culling: Remove all bulbs with mechanical damage, signs of rot, mould, or spots. Even one diseased bulb can become a source of infection and spoil its neighbours.

Signs of a healthy bulb: It should be firm, hard to the touch, with dry, rustling wrapper scales. The neck should be completely dry and tightly closed. The basal plate should be clean, without signs of rot or damage (Engeland, 1991; Brewster, 2008).

What to do with culled garlic: It can be used for food first, or processed (e.g., dried and ground into powder). It is not suitable for long‑term storage.

2. Sizing (Sorting by Size)

Sorting by size is not just an aesthetic matter. It is an important practical technique.

For what purposes: Large bulbs are better for sale or immediate consumption, medium‑sized for storage and consumption, small for planting in autumn (as planting material) (Autko et al., 2012; Balashev and Zeman, 1981).

Why it works: Large bulbs with many cloves often store less well than medium‑sized and small ones. They have more growing points and higher respiratory activity. By sorting them, you can use them first, leaving the more storable medium bulbs for winter (Engeland, 1991).

How to sort: Divide the bulbs into 2‑3 groups: large (for sale or early use), medium (for long‑term storage), and small (for planting).

3. Selection of Planting Material (Seed Garlic)

If you plan to plant garlic next year, now is the time to select the best bulbs.

Which garlic to choose: For planting, select the healthiest, largest, and well‑matured bulbs of medium or large size. They should be free from mechanical damage and disease symptoms (Engeland, 1991).

Storage of planting material: Seed garlic is stored separately from culinary garlic, at a higher temperature (about 8‑10 °C) and humidity of 70‑75%, to prevent premature sprouting (Autko et al., 2012). More on this in the next chapter.

4. Choosing Containers for Storage

The right container provides air circulation and prevents rotting.

Not recommended: Plastic bags, closed containers, jars with lids. In these, garlic “suffocates,” condensation leads to mould and rot.

Recommended:

• Mesh bags: Provide excellent ventilation. Suitable for hanging storage or on shelves.
• Wooden or slatted crates: With gaps between boards for air circulation. Capacity – no more than 10‑15 kg per crate (Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• Cardboard boxes with holes: Can be used, but you must make many ventilation holes.
• Plaits and bundles: A traditional storage method. Garlic braided into plaits is well ventilated and looks decorative. It is important that the plaits hang freely, not touching walls (Engeland, 1991).

Important: Containers must be clean and dry. Do not use containers that previously held diseased bulbs.

5. Final Check Before Storage

Before placing the garlic in the storage area, check once more:

• Moisture: The bulbs must be absolutely dry. If in doubt, keep them for another couple of days in a dry, ventilated place.
• Temperature: If you dried the garlic in a warm room, allow it to cool to the storage temperature before storing.
• Labelling: If you store different varieties, be sure to label the containers so you do not mix them up in spring.

Summary:

Preparation for storage is not just packaging, but conscious selection. Remove all dubious bulbs, sort by size, select the best for planting, and place in well‑ventilated containers. Remember: healthy, well‑cured, and properly selected garlic is 90% of the success of long‑term storage.

Great, we have come to the culmination – creating the right conditions for storing your harvest. It is at this stage that it is decided how many months the garlic will remain firm, juicy, and tasty.

1. Key Storage Parameters

For successful garlic storage, you need to control three main factors: temperature, air humidity, and air circulation.

Why these parameters?

• Temperature: This is the main controllable factor. Garlic has a distinct temperature optimum for sprouting. At temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, sprouting is most active. Storage at 0 °C slows all physiological processes, including respiration and sprouting, almost to zero. Storage at 8‑10 °C, on the other hand, stimulates flowering (bolting) in the following year, which is necessary for seed garlic (Brewster, 2008; Engeland, 1991).
• Humidity: If humidity is too high (above 80%), mould fungi develop and new roots may grow from the basal plate. If humidity is too low (below 60%), the garlic begins to dry out, lose moisture, and become flabby (Engeland, 1991; Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• Ventilation: Air must circulate continuously to remove excess moisture released by the bulbs during respiration and to prevent pathogen development.

2. Two Storage Regimes: Culinary and Seed

Why does seed garlic require a higher temperature? It is all about physiology. For garlic to flower and produce normal bulbs the next year, it must undergo vernalisation – exposure to certain temperatures. Storage at 8‑10 °C stimulates flower stalk initiation, while storage at 0 °C suppresses it (Brewster, 2008).

Therefore:

• Culinary garlic: Store at 0 °C and 65‑75% humidity. At this temperature, it hardly sprouts and does not lose moisture.
• Seed garlic (for planting): Store at 8‑10 °C and 70‑80% humidity. This ensures friendly emergence and bolting (for winter varieties) in the next season.

3. Where and How to Organise Storage in Domestic Conditions?

Not everyone has professional vegetable stores. Here are some practical options for gardeners and small farmers.

Cellar or basement:

• Pros: Usually stable temperature close to optimal.
• Cons: Often high humidity.
• Solution: Ensure good ventilation (vents, exhaust). Store garlic in mesh bags or crates with gaps, hung or placed on shelves so that air circulates from all sides (Balashev and Zeman, 1981). Do not place crates directly on a concrete floor – use wooden pallets.

Apartment or house:

• Pros: Low humidity.
• Cons: Too warm.
• Solution: Find the coolest spot: a pantry, insulated loggia, hallway. Garlic in plaits or mesh bags can be hung on the wall or under the ceiling. In a cupboard or pantry, you can spread it out in boxes. The main thing is that it is dry and not too warm (Engeland, 1991).

Refrigerator:

• This is not the best option for long‑term storage, as humidity in the refrigerator is usually high (above 80%). But for small volumes it will do. The main thing is to keep garlic in paper bags or special containers with holes to avoid condensation.

Dry, ventilated room:

• Ideal if the temperature stays within 5‑15 °C. For example, a dry attic, unheated veranda, shed.

4. What to Avoid When Storing

• No plastic! In sealed bags, garlic “suffocates” (it needs oxygen), releases moisture, and begins to rot (Engeland, 1991).
• Do not store near potatoes or other vegetables that give off a lot of moisture. This raises the humidity around the garlic and stimulates sprouting (Brewster, 2008).
• Do not allow sharp temperature fluctuations. This causes condensation on the bulbs and provokes sprouting and disease.
• Do not put crates on the floor. Humidity is higher near the floor, and air circulation is poorer. Use pallets or shelves.

5. How to Know If Garlic Is Storing Correctly?

During the first two weeks after storage, check the condition of the garlic. If you notice:

• Mould: Humidity is too high. Improve ventilation, sort the bulbs, remove damaged ones.
• Drying and shrivelling: Humidity is too low. Lightly moisten the room (place a container of water) or transfer the garlic to mesh bags with slightly tighter weave.
• Sprouting: Too warm. Find a cooler place (Engeland, 1991).

Summary:

Successful garlic storage depends on the right balance of temperature, humidity, and ventilation. Remember the main rules:

• Culinary garlic store at 0 °C and humidity 65‑75%.
• Seed garlic store at 8‑10 °C and humidity 70‑80%.
• Ensure constant air circulation.
• Regularly check the condition of the bulbs and promptly remove diseased ones.

By following these simple rules, you can preserve your harvest until spring, and perhaps even longer.

1. Biological Basis of the Differences

The main difference lies in the duration of the dormant period.

• Winter garlic has a shorter natural dormancy period. It is “programmed” for rapid spring awakening, so in warm conditions (above 15‑20 °C) it may begin to sprout as early as 2‑3 months after harvest (Brewster, 2008).
• Spring garlic, on the other hand, has a deeper and longer dormancy period. It can store much longer, sometimes until the next harvest, without losing quality (Engeland, 1991).

2. Differences in Bulb Structure

• Winter garlic: Typically has fewer large cloves (4‑10), arranged in a single row around a central stem (in bolting varieties). Wrapper scales are often denser and thicker.
• Spring garlic: Usually has many more smaller cloves (10‑20 or more), arranged spirally in several layers. Wrapper scales are often thinner, but the bulb as a whole is more compact (Engeland, 1991).

3. Temperature Storage Regimes

Each type of garlic has its own optimal temperatures.

• For spring garlic the optimum is temperature from -1 to 0 °C and humidity 65‑75%. At this temperature, it stores longest, up to 7‑8 months, almost without losing moisture or sprouting (Brewster, 2008; Balashev and Zeman, 1981).
• For winter garlic the optimum is temperature from 0 to +2 °C at the same humidity (65‑75%). If winter garlic is stored at a higher temperature (e.g., room temperature), it may begin to sprout in winter (Brewster, 2008).

Important: Winter garlic is very sensitive to temperatures in the range 4‑10 °C. It is in this interval that sprouting processes are most actively triggered. Therefore, for winter garlic it is critical to avoid storage under such conditions (Engeland, 1991).

4. Differences in Storage Ability

• Spring garlic has better storage ability. Under proper conditions (0 °C, 65‑75% humidity) it can store for 6‑8 months, until the new harvest (Engeland, 1991).
• Winter garlic stores less well. Its maximum storage life under optimal conditions is 4‑6 months. Therefore, winter garlic is recommended for use first, leaving spring garlic for longer storage (Brewster, 2008; Engeland, 1991).

5. Specifics of Storing Seed Garlic

Storage requirements for seed (planting) garlic also differ.

• Seed spring garlic is stored the same as culinary garlic, at 0 °C. This prevents premature sprouting and preserves its germination.
• Seed winter garlic for spring planting is stored at 8‑10 °C (Autko et al., 2012; Engeland, 1991). This is an important agronomic practice. Storage at this temperature stimulates flower stalk initiation (bolting), which is normal for winter varieties and ensures their proper development in the next season.

6. Practical Recommendations

• Sort garlic by type. Store winter and spring garlic separately to avoid mixing them up.
• Use winter garlic first. It is less storable, so it is better to use it for food in autumn and early winter.
• Keep spring garlic for spring. Its high storage ability allows you to preserve it until summer, when fresh garlic is gone.
• Select the best bulbs for planting of each type and store them at the recommended temperatures.
• Pay attention to the variety. Within each group there are varieties with different storage ability. For example, some winter garlic varieties (from the “Rocambole” or “Continental” groups) may store longer than others (Engeland, 1991).

Comparison Table: Storing Winter and Spring Garlic

7. Expert Opinion

Ron Engeland, author of the book “Growing Great Garlic,” a long‑time farmer and garlic expert, emphasises that the differences in storing winter and spring garlic are related to their evolutionary origin. Winter garlic is closer to wild forms, which are “accustomed” to rapid spring growth, so its dormancy period is shorter. Spring garlic is the result of breeding aimed at increasing storage life (Engeland, 1991).

Summary:

The main rule: winter garlic stores less well than spring garlic. Therefore:

1. Winter garlic use for food in autumn and early winter. Store it at 0…+2 °C and avoid temperatures 4‑10 °C.

2. Spring garlic leave for long‑term storage (winter‑spring) at temperature -1…0 °C.

Understanding these simple rules will help you organise storage correctly and provide yourself with fresh garlic all year round.