Watering

1. After Planting

Watering garlic immediately after planting and during the autumn–winter period is perhaps the most important yet most underestimated care step. How you act in the first weeks after setting the cloves into the soil directly determines how well the plant will overwinter and lay the foundation for the future harvest.

The main goal of autumn watering is not to saturate the plant with moisture for months ahead, but to create ideal conditions for root system development. Unlike many crops, garlic roots grow actively not in spring but in autumn, after planting. This process begins when soil temperature is around 0 °C and proceeds most intensively at +5–10 °C (Autko et al., 2012). For the roots to penetrate deeply and develop well before frost sets in, they need moist but not waterlogged soil.

How to do it correctly:

1. Pre‑plant watering. If autumn is dry and the soil at a depth of 10–15 cm has turned to dust, carry out a moisture‑recharging irrigation 2–3 days before planting. This is needed to build up a moisture reserve and ensure close contact between the clove and the soil.

2. Watering after planting. If the soil is already moist or pre‑plant watering was done, there is no need to water immediately after covering the garlic. If the soil is dry, however, water the bed (about 10–15 L per 1 m²) so that the soil settles and firmly surrounds the cloves. This provides moisture for root initiation and prevents air pockets where roots could dry out (Engeland, 1991).

Important to remember: We water to stimulate root formation, not to turn the soil into a swamp. Excess water in autumn is dangerous: in cold, waterlogged soil, roots breathe poorly, the risk of fungal diseases increases, and the cloves themselves may rot. If prolonged rains begin after planting, skip additional watering.

Watering going into winter. As soon as the soil begins to freeze, stop watering entirely. The garlic’s fate then depends on mulch and snow cover. In regions with cold, low‑snow winters, a layer of mulch (e.g., straw or peat) helps retain moisture and protect roots from freezing. But remember: if the mulch is too dense and wet, it may actually encourage rotting. In areas with mild winters and abundant rainfall, mulch can be removed early in spring so that the soil warms up faster (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).

2. In Spring

Spring watering is the period when the future harvest is set. As soon as the snow melts and the first green “needles” of garlic appear, the gardener’s main work begins. At this time, garlic is actively growing leaf mass, and the size of the future bulb directly depends on how well it is supplied with moisture. The key rule for spring watering: moderation and regularity.

When to start watering?

Rely on soil condition. In spring, the soil is often moist from meltwater, and in the first weeks after emergence, watering is usually not needed. Start watering only when the top layer of soil (5–10 cm) has dried noticeably. If the soil is still wet, additional moisture will only harm: roots will lack air, and cold, wet soil increases the risk of fungal diseases. In a dry spring or on light sandy soils, watering may be needed as early as 1–2 weeks after emergence.

How to know when it’s time to water?

The most reliable method is to check the soil at a depth of 5–7 cm. If the soil feels dry and crumbles rather than forming a ball – it’s time to water. This simple “finger test” works in any region and for any soil type (Engeland, 1991). Do not rely solely on the appearance of the plants: garlic may look green and strong even when the soil is already dry.

How often and how much water?

In spring, water garlic less frequently but more deeply. The optimal schedule is one watering per week at a rate of about 10–15 litres per 1 m² (or 1 inch of water, ~25 mm, over the whole area). The aim is to wet the soil to the depth where the bulk of the roots are (20–30 cm). Frequent, light watering only moistens the surface layer, encouraging weed growth and the development of shallow roots that will suffer at the slightest drought.

However, frequency and rate depend on weather and soil type:

• In cool, rainy weather, increase intervals between waterings to 10–14 days, or even skip them.
• In hot, windy weather, water more often – every 5–7 days.
• On sandy and loamy‑sand soils, water drains faster, so water more frequently but with a smaller single dose. On loams and clays, moisture is retained longer, so water less often but more abundantly (Autko et al., 2012).

Water and temperature

In spring, the soil is not yet warm, so cold water from a well can stress garlic and delay growth. If possible, use settled, sun‑warmed water. The best time for watering is morning or evening, so that moisture can soak in before the heat sets in and does not cause sunburn on the leaves.

Connection with mulching

If the beds are mulched with straw or compost, watering can be done less often: mulch retains moisture well and prevents soil overheating. However, in cool, wet springs, it is better to temporarily pull back the mulch so that the soil warms up faster – this stimulates garlic growth (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).

What not to do:

• Water when the soil is still wet, “just in case.”
• Water with cold water in hot weather – this causes stress and disease risk.
• Water over the leaves on a sunny day – water drops act as lenses and cause burns.

The main goal of spring watering is to keep the soil moderately moist, avoiding both drought and waterlogging. Well‑watered garlic in the first half of the growing season will form a powerful leaf rosette – and therefore a large, healthy bulb.

3. During Active Growth

The active growth period extends from spring regrowth to the beginning of bulb formation. For most regions, this falls in May – the first half of June. During this time, garlic builds leaf mass, and in bolting varieties, the flower stalk (scape) appears. It is now that the plant is most demanding of moisture: the amount of water affects not only the size of the future bulb, but also its density and storage life (Engeland, 1991).

Why is this critical?

In the active growth phase, garlic has its maximum leaf surface area and undergoes intense transpiration. At the same time, the root system continues to deepen. In this period, garlic consumes more water than at any other stage of the growing cycle. Even a short drought at this time can reduce yield by 20–30% and lead to the formation of small, loose bulbs that store poorly (Autko et al., 2012).

Main rule: regularity and depth

During active growth, watering should be regular – about once every 5–7 days in temperate zones and up to 2–3 times per week in hot, arid regions. The watering rate increases to 15–20 L per 1 m² (or 1–1.5 inches of water). The key is to wet the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm, where the bulk of the absorbing roots are located. Surface watering that only moistens the top 5–10 cm will not have the desired effect: roots will grow upward, and at the slightest drying, the plant will be stressed.

Adjust to the weather:

• In cool, cloudy weather, intervals can be extended to 7–10 days.
• In hot, dry weather, water more often, but do not increase the single dose to avoid waterlogging.
• On light sandy soils, water more frequently (every 3–4 days) but in smaller amounts; on loams, less often (every 7–10 days) but more abundantly (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).

When is watering especially important?

The critical period for garlic is the phase of intensive leaf growth and the beginning of scape formation. It is then that the number of cloves in the future bulb is determined. If the plant suffers water shortage, clove initiation may be incomplete, and the bulb will be small with few cloves (Engeland, 1991). Therefore, skipping waterings at this time is unacceptable.

Relation to temperature and rainfall

On hot days (above +25 °C), garlic can evaporate up to 2–3 litres of water per square metre per day. If there is no rain at this time, watering becomes vital. However, remember: watering in the heat should be done only in the morning (before 9–10 a.m.) or evening (after 6–7 p.m.) so that water does not evaporate immediately and does not burn the leaves through droplets acting as lenses. Daytime watering in hot weather is not only ineffective but harmful.

How to tell if there is enough water?

The simplest method is to check soil moisture. One day after watering, check the soil at a depth of 10–15 cm: it should be moist, not wet. If the soil sticks to your hands and can be formed into a ball – moisture is sufficient. If a ball does not form – it’s time to water. If water stands at the bottom of a hole – watering was excessive.

What to avoid:

• Watering with cold water (below +10–12 °C) in hot weather – this stresses plants and provokes fungal diseases.
• Watering over leaves on a sunny day – burns and risk of downy mildew.
• Prolonged waterlogging – roots suffocate, bulbs crack and store poorly.

Special case: watering in arid regions

In dry zones (e.g., steppe areas, southern regions), watering during active growth is the foundation of success. Here, drip irrigation systems are recommended, which supply water directly to the root zone, saving water and avoiding wetting between rows. Drip irrigation also reduces the risk of fungal diseases because leaves stay dry (Engeland, 1991).

Connection with fertilising

During active growth, garlic is often fed with nitrogen fertilisers. Watering just before and after feeding helps nutrients reach the roots faster. But remember: excess nitrogen combined with abundant watering can provoke excessive leaf growth at the expense of the bulb, so strictly follow dosages.

The key in this period is not to allow the soil to dry out, but also not to turn the bed into a swamp. Moderate, stable moisture is the key to a large, dense, and well‑storing bulb.

4. During Bulb Formation

This stage occurs about 1.5–2 months after the start of spring growth, when leaf growth slows down and the plant directs all resources to forming and filling the bulb. For most regions, this is late May – June. At this time, garlic is particularly sensitive to both lack and excess of moisture.

What is happening to the plant?

At this point, the growth of new leaves ends, and active division and enlargement of clove cells begins. Moisture is still needed, but in moderate amounts. The root system is already fully developed and reaches a depth of 30–40 cm. The purpose of watering is to support the filling process, but not to cause cracking of bulbs or disease development.

Main rule: gradual reduction

Unlike the previous phase, where watering was abundant and regular, its intensity now begins to be gradually decreased. This helps the plant “realise” that it is time to finish vegetation and stimulates the formation of dense, well‑storing bulbs.

Optimal schedule: water once every 7–10 days, but reduce the rate to 10–12 L per 1 m². The soil should be moistened to a depth of 15–20 cm – enough to support filling but not over‑wet the root zone (Engeland, 1991).

How to know when to reduce watering?

The main signal is the beginning of yellowing of the lower leaves. This is a natural process: the plant transfers accumulated nutrients to the bulb, and the lower leaves start to die off. As soon as you notice that 2–3 lower leaves have yellowed while the top is still green, it is time to switch to a reduced watering regime (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).

Why is excess moisture dangerous at this stage?

Overwatering during bulb formation is one of the main causes of poor storage life in garlic. Here is what it leads to:

• Bulbs become loose, cloves do not fit tightly together – such garlic dries out quickly and spoils in storage.
• The risk of fungal diseases, especially Fusarium and white rot, increases, as these pathogens actively attack the base and cloves in wet conditions.
• Natural maturation is disrupted: the plant continues to stay “green,” the bulb does not ripen in time, and the outer skins remain thin and easily damaged.
• In some varieties, excess moisture causes bulbs to crack right in the soil – such a crop is unsuitable for storage (Autko et al., 2012; Engeland, 1991).

Therefore, in rainy weather during this period, stop watering completely, even if the soil appears dry on top – under mulch, moisture is retained much longer.

How to avoid mistakes?

• Regularly check soil moisture at a depth of 10 cm. If the soil is moist and easily forms a ball – no watering is needed. If it crumbles and does not hold shape – moderate watering is required.
• Water only in the morning, so that the soil surface dries by evening. This reduces the risk of fungal and rot diseases.
• If you use drip irrigation, reduce its runtime to 1–2 hours instead of the usual 4–5 hours.
• Consider the weather: in hot, dry summers (especially in the south), watering may be needed more often, but always with a reduced rate. In temperate regions with frequent rains, watering is often not needed at all during this period.

Special conditions: hot and dry climate

In arid regions (e.g., steppe zone, southern Europe, or California), some watering is unavoidable. But even there, watering should be strictly dosed – for example, drip irrigation once every 7–10 days, with a gradual reduction in water volume. It is important not to let the soil dry out completely, otherwise bulb filling stops, but also to avoid prolonged wetness (Engeland, 1991).

What you absolutely should not do:

• Water with cold water (below +12 °C) – this stresses the plant, delays ripening, and promotes disease.
• Water in the middle of a hot day – water droplets on leaves and bulbs can cause burns and fungal infections.
• Abruptly stop watering if the soil has become dry – this will cause bulb cracking.

Connection with scape removal

In bolting varieties, flower stalks appear at this time. It is recommended to remove them so that the plant channels more resources into bulb formation. Watering after scape removal should be done with caution – excess moisture at this time may trigger the growth of new scapes, weakening the bulb.

The key in this period is to gradually, step by step, reduce watering volumes, preparing the garlic for the end of the growing season. A proper moisture regime during bulb formation is the key to a dense, large, and well‑stored harvest.

5. When to Stop Watering

Stopping watering is not just a final point in garlic care. It is a key agronomic practice that directly affects storage life, bulb density, and resistance to diseases during storage. Proper cessation of watering helps garlic “ripen” in the ground: form firm outer skins, complete filling, and prepare for harvest.

Main indicator: leaf condition

The primary guide for stopping watering is natural leaf senescence. When garlic begins to show widespread yellowing and drying of lower leaves while the top remains green, this signals that bulb filling is nearing completion and the need for moisture drops sharply.

The rule for most varieties and regions: as soon as the plants have 5–6 green leaves left (Engeland, 1991; Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024), watering should be completely stopped. In bolting varieties, an additional indicator is the straightening of the flower stalk. When the scape stops curling and stands upright, this indicates the beginning of bulb maturity.

Timing for stopping watering

In most temperate regions, watering is stopped 2–3 weeks before the expected harvest (Autko et al., 2012). In southern and arid regions, this period may be shorter – 10–14 days. In cool, humid regions, watering can be stopped even earlier to allow the soil to dry well by harvest time.

However, remember: timing is a guideline, not a strict rule. The main signal is plant condition, not the calendar.

What happens if you stop watering too early?

If you stop watering too early, when the bulb has not yet filled, the clove formation process is interrupted. Bulbs will be small, loose, with underdeveloped cloves. Such garlic dries out quickly in storage and loses marketable quality. Varieties with late maturity dates and those grown on light, fast‑drying soils are particularly sensitive to early cessation (Engeland, 1991).

What happens if you water too long?

Watering right up to the end is one of the main reasons for poor storage life.

Excess moisture at the end of the growing season leads to:

• Improper formation of tight protective skins; the bulb remains “naked” with thin, easily damaged outer scales.
• Accumulation of excess moisture in the bulbs, which accelerates respiration and leads to loss of dry matter.
• Cloves become loose and do not separate cleanly.
• Increased risk of fungal diseases, especially white rot, Fusarium, and Botrytis, which in wet soil easily enter through the base (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024; Autko et al., 2012).

As a result, such garlic quickly rots or dries out within the first months of storage, even under proper temperature conditions.

How to stop watering correctly?

Proper cessation is not a sudden cutoff, but a gradual reduction. Use this scheme:

1. Gradual reduction. Starting 3–4 weeks before harvest, increase intervals between waterings and decrease the water amount. The last watering should be 2–3 weeks before harvest, and it should be moderate – enough to moisten the soil but not flood it.

2. Monitor the weather. If rains occur during this period, stop watering immediately, regardless of the maturity stage. Rainwater at the end of the season often does more harm than good, especially if rains are prolonged.

3. Consider soil type. On light sandy soils, where moisture drains quickly, cessation may be more gradual than on heavy clays, where water lingers for a long time.

4. Observe the plants. Regularly check leaf condition – they are your main assistant in determining when to stop watering.

Regional features:

• For regions with hot, dry summers (southern Europe, California, arid areas). In such conditions, stop watering 10–14 days before harvest, but only if the soil is sufficiently moist. If the soil dries out earlier, one light watering can be done to maintain turgor, but 10 days before harvest stop watering completely to allow bulbs to “ripen” and not desiccate (Engeland, 1991).
• For regions with humid, cool climates (northern Europe, northeastern US, coastal areas). Here, stop watering earlier, often 3–4 weeks before harvest, to allow the soil to dry and reduce the risk of fungal diseases. In rainy weather, eliminate watering altogether a month before harvest, otherwise bulbs begin to rot in the ground (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).
• For regions with monsoon climates and heavy late‑season rainfall. In such regions, stop watering 3–4 weeks before harvest and may even use plastic film or temporary cover to protect against rains if they threaten the crop.

How to check if garlic is ready for harvest?

Once watering has stopped, the main indicator of readiness is the number of green leaves. For most varieties, garlic is ready to harvest when 4–5 green leaves remain (Engeland, 1991). If more leaves are present, wait. If only 2–3 green leaves remain, it is time to harvest, otherwise over‑ripening and splitting of bulbs into individual cloves will begin.

Practical summary:

• Watch the leaves – they are your main guide.
• Stop watering when 5–6 green leaves remain.
• Adjust to your region: in dry areas – 10–14 days before harvest; in temperate areas – 2–3 weeks; in cold areas – earlier.
• Adjust to soil type: on loams, stop earlier; on sands, slightly later.
• Do not allow waterlogging at the end of the season – it is your main enemy for good storage.
• Check readiness based on plant condition, not by dates.

Proper cessation of watering is the bridge between a good crop in the field and a high‑quality crop in storage. Give this stage due attention, and your garlic will please you for many months.

6. How Excess Moisture Affects Storage

Many gardeners and farmers, especially beginners, focus on growing large garlic bulbs and often overwater at the end of the season. However, excess moisture during the ripening period is one of the main reasons why hard‑earned harvests begin to spoil just 2–3 months after harvest. Understanding how moisture affects storage life will help avoid this common mistake.

Why is excess moisture so dangerous for storage?

The moisture accumulated in the bulb at the end of the season determines not only its size but also its physiological state. Overwatered garlic is garlic that has not undergone full preparation for dormancy. As a result, processes that directly impair storage occur:

1. Disruption of outer skin formation. In dry soil at the end of the growing season, the outer scales become dense, thin, and strong – they protect cloves from evaporation and pathogen entry. With excess moisture, these scales remain thick, coarse, or, conversely, too thin and easily damaged, failing to perform their protective function. Consequently, the bulb quickly loses moisture during storage (Engeland, 1991; Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).

2. Increased water content in tissues. Overwatered bulbs contain more free water, which accelerates respiration and the consumption of reserve nutrients. Such garlic dries out faster, becomes flaccid, and loses turgor (Autko et al., 2012).

3. Reduced dry matter concentration. Excess water dilutes cell sap, lowering the content of sugars and other compounds that determine not only flavour but also resistance to microbes. Garlic with low dry matter content is more quickly attacked by fungal diseases.

4. Increased risk of mechanical damage. Loose, overwatered bulbs have less tight clove cohesion. During harvest and transport, they are more easily bruised, and pathogens enter through micro‑cracks (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024).

5. Creation of favourable conditions for pathogens. Waterlogged soil at the end of the season is an ideal environment for the development of fungi such as Fusarium, Botrytis, and Penicillium, which cause basal rot, neck rot, and green mould. In dry soil, these fungi develop more weakly; in wet soil, they actively infect bulbs even before harvest (Autko et al., 2012).

6. Disruption of natural “ripening.” In dry soil, garlic completes its vegetation, activating mechanisms that put it into dormancy. With excess moisture, the plant does not receive the signal to stop growth, protective tissues do not form properly, and the bulb remains physiologically immature.

How to recognise “overwatered” garlic in storage?

An experienced eye will notice this even at harvest, but the main signs appear during storage:

• Bulbs feel soft even after drying – cloves do not fill the skins, and the garlic seems “hollow.”
• Outer scales peel off easily and tear, exposing the cloves.
• The base becomes loose, easily damaged, and shows mould spots.
• Cloves sprout after only 2–3 months of storage, instead of the expected 6–7 months.
• Drying is uneven: some cloves become shrivelled, while others remain moist and rot.
• An off‑odour appears – sour or musty, indicating putrefactive processes.

What storage conditions can help compensate?

Even if you overwatered, proper storage can partially remedy the situation (though not completely):

• Thorough drying before storage. Extend the drying period to 3–4 weeks with good ventilation and a temperature of +25…+30 °C. This will remove excess moisture before storage (Engeland, 1991).
• Lower humidity in the storage area. Optimal humidity for garlic storage is 65–70% (Schuh, Rosen & Tong, 2024). For overwatered garlic, keep it at the lower end – 60–65%. Humidity above 70% accelerates root and mould development, especially on weakened bulbs.
• Lower temperature. Store overwatered garlic at +1…+2 °C to slow respiration and microbial growth. Temperatures above +5 °C will accelerate drying and rotting.
• Regular inspection. Check stored garlic every 2–3 weeks and promptly remove suspicious bulbs to prevent the spread of rot.

How to avoid the problem in the future?

The best way to avoid storage issues is to follow a proper watering regime from the start:

• Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest (in dry regions – 10–14 days, in wet regions – 3–4 weeks).
• Rely on leaf condition: as soon as 5–6 green leaves remain, stop watering.
• In rainy weather at the end of the season, eliminate watering completely, even if the calendar says it is still needed.
• Consider soil type: on heavy clay soils, stop watering earlier because they retain moisture longer.
• Use drip irrigation at the end of the season to precisely dose moisture and avoid overwatering.

Connection with seed quality

Special attention should be paid to garlic reserved for seed. Overwatered bulbs, even if well dried, produce weaker, disease‑prone cloves. For planting, always select garlic from plots where watering was moderate and bulbs turned out dense, with well‑formed outer skins (Engeland, 1991).

Practical summary:

• Excess moisture at the end of the season is the main cause of poor garlic storage.
• Overwatered garlic has thin, easily damaged skins, low dry matter content, and high susceptibility to fungi.
• When storing such garlic, it requires lower humidity (60–65%), lower temperature (+1…+2 °C), and regular monitoring.
• The best way to avoid problems is to stop watering at the right time and account for late‑season weather conditions.
• Even if you overwatered, thorough drying and proper storage conditions will help preserve the crop, but not as well as properly grown garlic.

Final thought:

Watering garlic is not just about supplying water; it is about managing growth and maturation. Skillful cessation of watering is a key skill that distinguishes a good harvest from a truly high‑quality one that can be stored for many months. Give this stage as much attention as the others, and your garlic will stay fresh until spring.

References

1. England, R.L. (1991). Growing Great Garlic: The Definitive Guide for Organic Gardeners and Small Farmers. 1st ed., 9th printing, 1998 Okanogan, WA, USA: Filaree Productions.
2. Kemble, J.M., Bertucci, M.B., Jennings, K.M., Meadows, I.M., Rodrigues, C., Walgenbach, J.F., Wszelaki, A.L. (2022). Southeast U.S. Vegetable Crop Handbook. 23rd edition : Great American Media Services.
3. Schuh, M., Rosen, C.J., Tong, C. (2024). Growing garlic in home gardens. UMN Extension, University of Minnesota. Available at: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-garlic. (Accessed: 2 July 2026).
4. Steil, A. (2025). Growing Garlic in the Home Garden. Yard and Garden, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. Available at: https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-garlic-home-garden. (Accessed: 2 July 2026).
5. UMass Extension (2013). Garlic. Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment, UMass Amherst. Available at: https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/es/vegetable/fact-sheets/garlic. (Accessed: 2 July 2026).
6. Аутко, А.А. (2012). ‘Современные технологии выращивания овощных культур [Modern technologies for growing vegetable crops]’, in Современные технологии в овощеводстве [Modern technologies in vegetable growing]. Минск, Белоруссия: Беларус. навука, pp. 93-347.