Formation and Pruning of Red, White, and Golden Currants

Bush Structure and Types of Shoots

A currant bush consists of branches of different ages, united by a common root system. The above-ground part includes:

1. Basal (zero-order) shoots. These are shoots that grow from the base of the bush from underground buds. They form the framework (skeleton) of the bush. In the first year, they grow intensively, and in subsequent years, they branch, turning into perennial skeletal branches (Tarasov, 1981).

2. Lateral branches. These are branches of the first, second, and subsequent orders that develop from buds on the basal shoots. The main harvest is formed on them.

3. Bouquet twigs (spurs) and ringlets. This is the main difference between red/white currants and black currants. These are short (1–3 cm) perennial fruit formations that live for 3–4 years or longer. On them, at the boundaries of annual growth, flower buds are laid in dense groups. The bulk of the harvest is concentrated here (Tarasov, 1981). Therefore, if you heavily shorten an old branch, you remove these fruit spurs and lose the harvest.

4. Replacement shoots. After fruiting, from mixed buds (which contain primordia of both leaves and flowers), small replacement shoots may develop, supporting the life of the fruit spur. However, full-fledged strong replacement shoots are formed only from buds on strong annual growths 15–30 cm long (Tarasov, 1981). This is important during rejuvenation.

Fruiting Zone

Three zones can be distinguished on the annual growth of red currant (Tarasov, 1981):

• Growth zone (lower part of the shoot). Here, the buds are vegetative; strong growth shoots develop from them, forming the skeleton of the bush.
• Growth and fruiting zone (middle part). Here are both vegetative and generative (flower) buds. This is the most valuable part of the shoot.
• Fruiting zone (upper part). Here, flower buds predominate, but the replacement shoots from them are typically weak.

Thus, the main task of pruning red and white currants is not to stimulate branching by shortening (as with black currants), but to maintain an optimal number of strong basal shoots and regularly remove old, worn-out skeletal branches to make room for new ones.

Golden currant is similar in growth and fruiting characteristics to red currant (Tarasov, 1981). It also fruits on annual growth and on short, durable fruit spurs. Its skeletal branches live for 6–7 years, and the most productive are 2–5-year-olds. The key difference is its tendency to produce a large number of basal shoots, which must be managed to prevent the bush from thickening.

Conclusions for Pruning

Based on biological characteristics:

1. Form the bush with a strong base. We need powerful basal shoots that will become a durable skeleton.

2. Shortening is an exception, not a rule. Unlike black currant, the shoots of red and white currants are not heavily shortened. At most, you can remove the tip if it is weak or frost-damaged.

3. The main technique is thinning. We regularly remove old, unproductive, thickening, and diseased branches, leaving the strongest and best-positioned shoots of different ages.

4. Monitor the basal shoots. Remove excess weak zero-order shoots, especially in golden currant, which tends to produce them excessively.

Optimal Pruning Timing

Currants have two key periods for pruning: the main one (winter-spring) and an additional one (summer).

Main Pruning: Late Winter – Early Spring

This is the most important time. It is performed when the plants are dormant, but before bud break.

• When: In late February, March, or early April, depending on the climatic zone. Aim for an average daily air temperature around 0°C and the absence of severe frosts.
• Why: At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and the wounds from cuts dry out quickly, without causing significant "bleeding" (sap exudation), which weakens the plant. Moreover, it is easy to assess the condition of the bush, as all branches are clearly visible without leaves. All cuts are made "above a bud" – slightly above an outward or inward-facing bud, depending on the desired direction for the future shoot.

Summer Pruning: After Harvest

This pruning is auxiliary and corrective in nature.

• When: Immediately after harvesting the berries, in July-August.
• Why: At this time, the bush begins to lay flower buds for the next year. Removing old, fruited branches during this period frees up resources for young shoots and improves the lighting of the remaining branches, which positively affects the formation of the future harvest (Buckingham, 2010). Additionally, in summer, the entire green mass is clearly visible, making it easier to remove obviously weak and thickening shoots.

Important: Do not prune in late autumn when frosts have already set in. The cuts will take a long time to heal, weakening the plant and increasing the risk of winter damage.

Summary: Understanding that red and white currants bear fruit on perennial wood (bouquet twigs/spurs), not on annual growth, is the foundation of correct pruning. Our task is not to shorten, but to thin and rejuvenate the bush. Perform the main pruning in early spring, and only adjust it in late summer.

Now that we know the biology and timing, it's time to move on to practical techniques. In the next chapter, we'll start from the very beginning – with the formation of a young bush.

Planting and First Pruning

Proper planting is half the success. Saplings are planted in autumn (September-October) or early spring (before bud break). Follow one important rule during planting:

Planting Depth. Unlike black currant, which is planted at an angle and deeper, red, white, and golden currants are planted straight, burying the root collar only 5–7 cm (on light soils, up to 8–10 cm) (Kurennoi et al., 1985). This is done to stimulate the formation of additional roots and new basal shoots that will form the base of the bush.

Immediately after planting, the first, most severe pruning is carried out:

All shoots are shortened, leaving 2–3 well-developed buds on each (Bowling, 2000). This sounds drastic, but it is absolutely necessary. Severe pruning stimulates the awakening of dormant buds at the base of the sapling and the formation of powerful zero-order shoots, from which the future bush will be composed. If this is not done, the sapling will produce weak growth, and the bush will form slowly.

Second Year: Establishing the First Tier

In the second year after planting, in early spring, we begin forming the base of the bush. Over the past season, several strong basal shoots should have grown from the buds at the base of the sapling. Now our task is to select the best among them.

• Selecting shoots. Choose 3–4 of the strongest, best-developed, and well-positioned basal shoots. They will become the main skeletal branches of the first order. These shoots should be directed in different directions to ensure the bush develops evenly in the future.
• Removing excess. Cut out all other basal shoots, as well as weak and thickening branches, at ground level, leaving no stubs.
• Shortening. Shorten the selected shoots by about 1/3–1/2 of their length, cutting above a strong outward-facing bud. This stimulates their branching and the formation of lateral branches, on which bouquet twigs will form in the future. With red and white currants, we do not shorten too heavily to avoid delaying the onset of fruiting, but for forming a compact bush, this is necessary.

Important for golden currant: This species is very prone to producing excessive basal shoots, so already in the second year, you need to actively manage them, leaving only the strongest shoots (Dankov, 2015). Otherwise, the bush will quickly become dense.

Third Year: Adding the Second Tier

By the beginning of the third year, you should have 3–4 strong branches. Now you need to add a few more young shoots to form a full-fledged bush.

• Selecting shoots. From the newly grown basal shoots, select another 3–4 of the strongest and best-positioned ones. These will be second-order branches that will fill the free space and ensure continuous replacement of old wood in the future.
• Removing excess. Cut out all other new shoots, as well as weak and diseased branches, at the base.
• Shortening. As in the previous year, slightly shorten the selected young shoots to stimulate branching. Do not shorten last year's branches that have already begun to bear fruit, to avoid removing the bouquet twigs.

Fourth Year: Completing the Formation

By the fourth year, you should have formed a bush consisting of 10–15 strong, well-developed, and evenly spaced branches of different ages (Tarasov, 1981). This year, you complete the main formation:

• Final selection. Keep only the best shoots. Remember that the bush should not have branches older than 7–8 years, so our task is to ensure their constant replacement. For golden currant, the optimal number of branches per bush is 8–10 (Dankov, 2015), so it is managed slightly more strictly.
• Sanitary pruning. Remove all weak, broken, diseased, and branches that thicken the center. Shorten only young shoots if they stand out too much from the overall shape.

Formation scheme for red currant usually involves maintaining 3–4 branches of each age (one-year, two-year, three-year, and so on up to 7–8 years) (Tarasov, 1981). This is a classic approach that ensures constant rejuvenation of the bush without a sharp drop in yield.

Peculiarity of red and white currants: Because their skeletal branches are long-lived, in the first 3–4 years, we form the base of the bush that will serve for many years. Unlike black currant, there is no need to constantly stimulate strong annual growth. Our goal is to create a well-lit, well-ventilated bush with strong, durable branches that will be abundantly covered with bouquet twigs.

Summary: Forming a young red or white currant bush is a process spanning 3–4 years. Our main goal is to create an open bush of 10–15 strong, properly positioned skeletal branches of different ages. For golden currant, this number is slightly smaller – 8–10 branches – but the principles of selection and shoot management are the same. In subsequent years, pruning will be of a maintenance nature, aimed at rejuvenation and thinning.

Basic Principles of Annual Pruning of a Fruiting Bush

1. Removal of old, unproductive branches. This is the core of maintenance pruning. In red and white currants, skeletal branches maintain good productivity for up to 7–8 years (Kurennoi et al., 1985). However, after this age, their growth slows down significantly, growths become shorter than 15 cm, the yield becomes smaller, and the branch begins to die back from the top. Such branches should be ruthlessly cut out at the very base, at ground level, leaving no stubs. In their place, we keep 3–4 of the strongest young zero-order shoots that grew during the current season.

• For golden currant: this process occurs somewhat faster. Its skeletal branches are productive for up to 5–7 years, so replacement of old branches begins earlier. A golden currant bush should have 8–10 branches of different ages, with branches older than 5–6 years regularly removed (Dankov, 2015).

2. Managing and thinning. In red and white currants, and especially in golden currant, many basal shoots (suckers) grow annually. If they are not removed, the bush will quickly turn into an impenetrable thicket. Each year, we keep only the strongest and best-positioned shoots (usually 3–4 pieces) that will replace old branches in the future. All others – weak, crooked, growing inward – are cut out at the base. This preserves the open structure of the bush, where each branch is well-lit and ventilated.

3. Sanitary pruning. Remove all dry, broken, frost-damaged, and diseased branches. This is a mandatory element of annual care (Hessayon, 1993). It is carried out at any time, but especially carefully in early spring, before sap flow begins.

4. Pruning to a stump (for golden and neglected red currants). In some cases, when a bush is heavily neglected or, for golden currant, to stimulate the formation of new powerful shoots, a radical rejuvenation is applied – cutting the entire above-ground part to a height of 10–12 cm from the soil level. After such pruning, the bush produces powerful shoots, from which a new skeleton is then formed (Dankov, 2015). For red currant, this technique is used less often, but it is effective for rejuvenating very old bushes.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Annual Pruning (Early Spring)

1. Assess the bush. Inspect the bush. Note the old, thick, dark branches with peeling bark and short (less than 15 cm) growths. These are the main candidates for removal.

2. Remove the old. Cut out 2–3 of the oldest branches at ground level. Do not spare them! In their place, new powerful shoots will grow in the future. If a branch is not old but grows inward, shades others, or lies on the ground, remove it as well.

3. Manage the young shoots. From the young basal shoots that grew last year, select 3–4 of the strongest, outward-growing, and evenly spaced ones. Cut out the rest, including all weak ones, at the base.

4. Shortening (selective). Unlike black currant, here we shorten only in special cases:

• If the tip of a young shoot is frost-damaged or weak, cut it back to a healthy bud.
• If you need to direct the growth of a branch in the desired direction, make the cut above an outward-facing bud.
• For golden currant, to stimulate branching, you can slightly shorten overly long (more than 50–60 cm) annual shoots (Dankov, 2015). For red and white currants, this is generally avoided.

5. Sanitary clean-up. Remove all dry, diseased, and broken branches. They are easily identified by their dark, peeling bark or lack of buds.

Summer Pruning (Corrective)

After harvesting (in July-August), you can perform a light corrective pruning (Buckingham, 2010). At this time, all weak, thickening, and unnecessary shoots are clearly visible. Removing them during this period helps the plant direct all its energy into setting flower buds for the next year and improves the lighting of the remaining branches.

What to remove in summer:

• Small, weak shoots at the base of the bush.
• Vigorous, vertical shoots ("watersprouts") that thicken the center of the bush.
• Shoots growing inward.

Summer pruning is not as radical as spring pruning. It is more of a "cosmetic" repair that helps maintain the shape and health of the bush.

Important rule: In any pruning, try to make cuts as close to the ground as possible (when removing an entire branch) or above a bud, leaving no stubs. Stubs are gateways for infection and places for unwanted shoot growth. All cuts should be clean, without torn bark.

Summary: Annual maintenance pruning of red, white, and golden currants is, first and foremost, the regular removal of old branches (older than 7–8 years for red and white, and older than 5–7 years for golden) and the management of young shoots. The main goal is to keep the bush open, ensuring good light and air penetration for each branch. Do not get carried away with shortening shoots – you risk losing the harvest! Perform the main pruning in early spring, and only light adjustments in summer.

Steps for Rejuvenating a Neglected Bush

Step 1: Assessing the Bush's Condition

Before picking up the pruners, carefully inspect the bush. Determine:

• Number and age of branches. Old branches are usually dark grey, with peeling bark, moss, and lichens. They have short (less than 10–15 cm) annual growths. Young branches are light brown or golden, with shiny bark and strong growth.
• Condition of the central part of the bush. If the center is heavily thickened and branches are intertwined, it must be thinned out.
• Presence of diseases and pests. Severely diseased or damaged branches should be removed first.

Step 2: Radical Thinning (First Year)

Proceed to the most important part of rejuvenation. Our goal is to remove everything unnecessary and leave only the promising branches.

1. Removal of old and diseased branches. Cut out all branches older than 7–8 years (for red and white) or older than 5–6 years (for golden). These are branches with dark, peeling bark and weak growth. They should be cut at the very base, leaving no stubs (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Tarasov, 1981).

• Important: Do not cut out all old branches at once if there are many! It is better to spread the process over 2–3 years to avoid shocking the bush too much. In the first year, remove 1/3–1/2 of the oldest branches, in the second – another 1/3, and so on (Tarasov, 1981).
• Thinning out dense areas. Remove all thin, weak, crooked, and branches rubbing against each other. Cut out branches that grow inward or cross each other. Open up the center of the bush so that sunlight and air can penetrate freely.
• Removal of watersprouts. Watersprouts are powerful, vertically growing shoots that often appear at the base of old branches. They do not bear fruit but consume a lot of the bush's energy. They should also be cut out, leaving them only if necessary to replace a removed old branch.

Step 3: Forming a New Skeleton (Second and Third Years)

After the first year of pruning, the bush should have a "base" – a few strong young shoots (1–3 years old) that will become the new skeleton.

1. Selecting new shoots. From the young basal shoots that appear after pruning, keep 3–4 of the strongest and best-positioned ones. They will form the basis of the new bush.

2. Further replacement of old branches. In the second year, remove another 1/3 of the remaining old branches, continuing to replace them with young ones. By the end of the third year, you should have a bush formed from 8–12 strong branches of different ages (for red and white) or 5–7 (for golden).

3. Shortening. After rejuvenation pruning, shoots often produce strong growth. To stimulate branching and the formation of bouquet twigs, slightly shorten the longest young shoots, cutting them above an outward-facing bud.

Special case: Pruning "to a stump"

For heavily neglected or old bushes of golden and red currant (in exceptional cases), the most radical method is used – cutting the entire above-ground part to a height of 10–12 cm from the soil level (Dankov, 2015). This allows the bush to be completely renewed through powerful shoots from the root collar.

• When to apply: The bush is very old (more than 15–20 years), heavily thickened, and practically does not bear fruit.
• How to do it: In early spring, cut all branches at ground level, leaving stubs 10–15 cm high.
• Aftercare: After such pruning, the bush will produce many shoots. From these, you will need to select 5–7 of the strongest and remove the rest. The harvest will appear in 1–2 years.

Important: Pruning "to a stump" is a shock to the plant, so it is performed only as a last resort and on a healthy bush with a powerful root system.

What Not to Do During Rejuvenation

1. Do not leave stubs. Cuts should be as close to the ground as possible. Stubs are gateways for diseases and places for weak shoot growth.

2. Do not shorten old branches. If you shorten an old branch but leave it, the remaining buds will produce weak shoots, and there will still be no berries on it. It is much more effective to remove the branch entirely, making room for a young one.

3. Do not perform heavy pruning in autumn. This weakens the bush before winter. The best time is early spring, or, as a last resort, immediately after harvest (for light correction).

4. Do not be afraid to remove a lot. Remember that 1 strong young shoot will yield more berries than 10 old, weak branches.

Summary: Rejuvenating an old bush is a process spread over 2–3 years. The main goal is to gradually replace all old branches with young, strong shoots. Do not try to do everything in one season – this can kill the plant. Act consistently, choose the most valuable parts, and do not be afraid to remove the excess. A rejuvenated bush will continue to reward you with abundant harvests of large and sweet berries for many years.

Standard Form: The Currant Tree

The standard form is when a currant bush is shaped like a miniature tree with a single straight trunk (standard) 40–80 cm high and a compact crown on top (Buckingham, 2010). Such a plant looks very impressive, especially during flowering and fruiting, and can become a central element of landscape design.

Advantages of the standard form:

• Decorative appeal. A currant on a standard is a true garden decoration for a lawn or patio. It can be planted as a specimen or used to create avenues.
• Easier care. It is easy to cultivate the soil around the tree, apply fertilizer, and control weeds. The berries do not touch the ground, reducing the risk of rot.
• Simplified harvesting. Berries hang from the crown, making them easy to pick without bending over or fighting through thorny branches.
• Space saving. The standard form takes up less space than a spreading bush, which is especially important for small gardens.

Disadvantages:

• Lower yield. Compared to the bush form, a standard tree yields less, as the crown volume is limited.
• Difficulty of creation. Obtaining a standard form requires either grafting (which is complex) or long-term shaping from a single shoot.
• Susceptibility to wind and frost. The standard is less stable, and the crown can be damaged by strong wind or frost if not protected.
• Need for support. Standard plants require a sturdy support (stakes) to prevent the trunk from breaking under the weight of the harvest.

Ways to create a standard:

1. Growing from a single shoot. This is the simplest method. For this, leave one strongest and straightest shoot on a young sapling, and cut out all the rest. Tie the shoot to a stake to keep it growing strictly vertically. Remove all lateral buds on the trunk up to the desired height of the standard (e.g., 60 cm). Shorten the tip of the shoot to stimulate branching. In subsequent years, form the crown similarly to a regular bush, but from 3–4 branches.

• For golden currant: This method is particularly good, as golden currant easily forms a strong trunk and branches well (Dankov, 2015).

2. Grafting. A more complex but effective method. A cutting of the desired red or white currant variety is grafted onto a rootstock (usually golden currant, as the most drought-resistant and long-lived species) (Krivko, 2014). This allows obtaining an ideal standard with a predetermined height. This method is often used in nurseries to produce standard saplings. In the description of Eastern European practice, the use of the "woody" form of currant (Ribes arboreum) as a rootstock is mentioned, allowing for very impressive standard trees (Bowling, 2000).

Care for the standard form:

• Pruning. Annually remove all shoots appearing on the trunk below the crown. Maintain an open structure in the crown of 3–5 main branches, removing old and thickening shoots, just as in a regular bush.
• Support. The standard needs constant support. Drive a sturdy stake next to it and tie the trunk to it in several places.
• Fertilization. Standard plants need regular feeding, as their root system (especially in grafted ones) may be less powerful.

Trellis Form

The trellis form involves growing currants on a vertical support (trellis) made of posts and stretched wire. This is an excellent method for small gardens or for decorating walls and fences (Bowling, 2000).

Advantages:

• Maximum use of space. Shoots are directed vertically or in a fan shape, allowing more plants to be placed in a small area.
• Better lighting. All branches are evenly illuminated by the sun, promoting better ripening of berries and setting of fruit buds.
• Simplified care. Harvesting and pruning are easier.
• Decorative appeal. The trellis form creates beautiful green walls.

Methods of shaping on a trellis:

1. Cordon. This is one or several vertical trunks (single, double, or triple cordon) with short lateral fruit-bearing twigs (Buckingham, 2010). This form is often used for red and white currants.

• How to create: A sapling with one strong shoot is planted near the trellis and tied to the wire. All lateral shoots are shortened in summer to 5 leaves, and in winter – to 1–2 buds, to stimulate the formation of fruit-bearing twigs (Buckingham, 2010). The tip is shortened when the plant reaches the desired height.
• Fan shape. The plant is formed like a fan of 3–5 main branches radiating from the base. This allows covering a wall or fence with a beautiful green fan and ensuring good lighting for each branch.

Care for the trellis form:

• Annual pruning. Regular pruning is required to maintain the cordon or fan shape. In summer, shorten lateral shoots to 5 leaves, and in winter – to 1–2 buds, to maintain compactness and stimulate fruiting (Buckingham, 2010). Remove all shoots growing in the wrong direction.
• Tying. Shoots are regularly tied to the support, directing them in the desired direction.
• Watering and fertilizing. Trellis plants need regular watering and fertilization, especially if their root zone is limited.

Golden currant on trellis and standard:

Golden currant is an ideal candidate for creating standard forms due to its ability to form a straight trunk (Dankov, 2015). Furthermore, it is often used as a rootstock for red and white currants to produce a beautiful standard tree with multi-colored berries. Golden currant is less commonly grown on a trellis, but it also responds well to shaping.

Summary: Standard and trellis forms are not only beautiful but also practical. They allow for easier care, save space, and transform currants into a real garden ornament. Creating them requires more time and attention, but the result is worth it. Standard and trellis plants are particularly good for small gardens, for decorating leisure areas, and for those who value not only the harvest but also the aesthetics of the garden.

When and Why is Sanitary Pruning Performed?

Sanitary pruning is carried out in two main stages:

1. Main stage: early spring (before bud break). This is the most important time. During the dormant period, all damaged and diseased branches are clearly visible. Moreover, early spring cuts dry out quickly, and the risk of infection is minimal.

2. Additional stage: throughout the season. If you notice a diseased, broken, or dried branch in summer, do not wait for spring. It should be removed immediately to prevent the infection from spreading to healthy parts of the bush. This is especially true for branches affected by fungal diseases such as powdery mildew or anthracnose (Bowling, 2000).

Why is sanitary pruning needed?

• Prevention of fungal diseases. Diseased branches are a source of fungal spores (powdery mildew, anthracnose, septoria, various rots). Removing them eliminates the source of infection.
• Pest control. Some pests (e.g., currant clearwing moth, gall midges, certain aphid species) overwinter inside shoots or under the bark. Sanitary pruning allows the removal of infested branches before the pests begin to multiply (Bowling, 2000).
• Improving bush health. Weak, damaged, and dried branches provide no benefit but consume nutrients from the bush. Their removal redirects resources to the development of healthy fruiting shoots.
• Prevention of mechanical damage. Stubs and broken branches are open gateways for infections, especially for wood-decaying fungi such as bracket fungi.

What is Subject to Sanitary Pruning?

What to look for when inspecting the bush:

1. Dried and dead branches. These are the most obvious candidates for removal. They are easily recognized by their dark, peeling bark, lack of buds, and dry, brittle wood. Such branches are often affected by bark diseases (e.g., cytosporosis, nectria canker) and serve as shelter for pests.

• Tip: If a branch has dried up but you are unsure of the cause, cut it off and inspect the cut. Dark rings, cankers, or insect tunnels will indicate what affected the plant (Buckingham, 2010).

2. Branches affected by diseases. Pay attention to:

• Cankers and cracks on the bark. This may be a sign of bacterial canker or fungal diseases.
• Swellings, galls, or thickenings on shoots. This may be caused by gall-forming aphids, gall midges, or other pests.
• Shoots with signs of wilting (e.g., "brown spot" or "grey mould").
• Branches with cracks and frost cracks (especially after harsh winters).

3. Damaged branches. These are branches broken by heavy snow, harvest weight, or wind. They are also "entry points" for infections.

4. Weak and non-viable shoots. These are thin (thinner than a pencil), short shoots with small, underdeveloped buds. They will not produce a worthwhile harvest and will only shade the bush, so they are also removed.

5. Excess basal shoots. Young shoots growing at the very base of the bush, too close to each other, or clearly weak are also removed. Only the strongest and best-positioned ones are kept to replace old branches.

6. Branches growing inward and thickening the bush. Although this is more an element of formative pruning, sanitary pruning also includes removing branches that rub against each other, creating wounds that can become infected.

Sanitary Pruning Rules

1. Remove completely or down to healthy wood.

• Branches that are completely diseased or dried out are cut at the collar – at the very base, leaving no stubs.
• If a branch is partially damaged (e.g., broken), it can be cut back to the nearest healthy outward-facing bud. The cut is made slightly above the bud.

2. Disinfect tools.

• When pruning diseased branches, the tool (pruners, saw) should be disinfected after each cut. This prevents the transfer of infection from a diseased branch to a healthy one.
• For disinfection, use alcohol, a solution of potassium permanganate, or a 10% solution of bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water). The simplest way is to wipe the blades with alcohol wipes (Bowling, 2000; Buckingham, 2010).

3. Remove diseased branches from the site.

• All pruned diseased and dried branches should not be left at the base of the bush or used for mulching. They should be immediately burned or removed from the site to avoid creating additional sources of infection.

4. Protect the cuts.

• All cuts with a diameter greater than 1 cm should be covered with grafting wax, special pastes, or oil paint based on natural linseed oil. This protects the wound from fungal spores and accelerates healing (Hessayon, 1993).

Important: Sanitary pruning should not be just a "clean-up" of the bush. It should be performed in conjunction with maintenance and rejuvenation pruning. Regularly inspect your bushes, remove problematic branches, and your currants will reward you with health and abundant harvests for many years.

Summary: Sanitary pruning is an annual and mandatory care step that includes the removal of all diseased, damaged, dried, and weak branches. It helps prevent the spread of diseases and pests, improving the health and productivity of the bush. The main rules are timeliness, clean cuts, and mandatory tool disinfection when working with diseased plants.

Groups of Varieties by Shoot-Forming Ability

One of the key differences between varieties is their ability to form basal shoots (zero-order shoots). Depending on this, varieties are divided into three groups (Tarasov, 1981), which directly affects the pruning strategy:

1. Varieties with high shoot-forming ability.

• Characteristics: These varieties annually produce a large number of strong basal shoots. Without regular management, bushes quickly thicken, leading to reduced yields and increased disease risk.
• Examples: This group includes, for example, 'Faya Plodorodnaya', 'Versailles' (Tarasov, 1981). Also, according to Dankov (2015), golden currant generally has a high shoot-forming ability.
• Pruning strategy: Special attention is paid to managing the shoots. Annually, in early spring, remove all excess weak and poorly positioned zero-order shoots, keeping only 3–4 of the strongest and correctly oriented ones. Cut out thickening and intertwining branches without mercy. Such varieties require more intensive thinning.

2. Varieties with low shoot-forming ability.

• Characteristics: These varieties produce few basal shoots. Bushes grow slowly and rarely thicken. Their skeletal branches and bouquet twigs retain productivity longer in the center of the bush.
• Examples: This group includes varieties such as 'Novaya Krasnaya', 'Belaya Prozrachnaya' (Tarasov, 1981).
• Pruning strategy: Here, the task is different – not thinning, but stimulating the formation of new shoots. For this, light rejuvenation is used: old (8–10-year-old) branches that have stopped fruiting are cut out at the base, stimulating the awakening of dormant buds and the growth of new shoots. Shortening is done very carefully to avoid losing valuable bouquet twigs.

3. Varieties with average shoot-forming ability.

• Characteristics: This is an intermediate group, to which most zoned varieties belong, for example, 'Dutch Red' (Tarasov, 1981). They produce a moderate number of shoots, are not prone to heavy thickening, but do not require special stimulation.
• Pruning strategy: The standard scheme of maintenance pruning is applied: annual removal of 2–3 oldest branches, replacing them with 2–3 strongest zero-order shoots. Shoot management is carried out in moderate amounts.

Peculiarities of Pruning Golden Currant

Although golden currant is generally similar to red currant in terms of fruiting, it has several important differences regarding pruning (Dankov, 2015; Tarasov, 1981):

1. High shoot-forming ability. As mentioned, golden currant tends to produce a large number of basal shoots. This makes it an ideal candidate for standard forms but requires strict management in bush culture.

2. Shorter longevity of skeletal branches. Unlike red and white, in golden currant, skeletal branches are productive for up to 5–7 years, and the most productive are 2–5-year-olds (Dankov, 2015). Therefore, rejuvenation pruning begins earlier, removing branches older than 5–6 years.

3. Fruiting type. The main harvest is concentrated on annual growth and on 1–2-year-old fruit spurs. This makes it somewhat closer to black currant, but still, the bulk of the berries are on perennial wood. Therefore, heavy shortening is still undesirable, but stimulating strong annual growth is an important task.

4. Reaction to pruning "to a stump". Golden currant tolerates radical pruning "to a stump" (at a height of 10–12 cm from the ground) well. After such pruning, it produces powerful shoots and recovers quickly, entering fruiting in the 2nd year (Dankov, 2015). This is an effective way to rejuvenate old or neglected bushes.

What Else to Consider

1. Variety growth vigor. Vigorous varieties require more careful shoot management and thinning to restrain their spread. Weak-growing varieties, on the other hand, can be formed more compactly.

2. Crown shape. Some varieties have spreading bushes, others – compact, upright. Consider this feature during pruning: for spreading varieties, it is better to leave shoots growing upwards to give the bush a more vertical shape and facilitate care. For upright ones, conversely, you can leave shoots growing outwards to widen the crown and improve lighting.

Practical advice: If you don't know which group your variety belongs to, observe it. If the bush produces many shoots and tends to thicken – it needs more active thinning. If there are few shoots and the bush becomes "bare" at the bottom – pay more attention to stimulating new shoots and rejuvenation.

Summary: Considering varietal characteristics is the next level of skill in currant pruning. Varieties with high shoot-forming ability require more frequent and intensive thinning, while those with low ability require growth stimulation and rejuvenation. Golden currant stands out for its tendency to produce shoots and shorter branch longevity, requiring earlier initiation of rejuvenation pruning. Knowing these nuances will allow you to adapt pruning to each specific variety and get the maximum return from your currant garden.

1. Protecting the Cuts

Any wound on a plant is an open gateway for infections. Fungal spores, bacteria, and viruses can easily penetrate unprotected wood, causing diseases and rot.

When to treat: Immediately after making the cut. Do not postpone this work, especially if the cut is thick (more than 1 cm in diameter) (Hessayon, 1993).

What to use for treatment:

• Grafting wax (Tree wound sealant). This is a classic and proven remedy. It creates a reliable protective film that prevents the cut from drying out and protects against infections (Hessayon, 1993). Apply it in a thin layer to the clean and dry surface of the cut.
• Special pastes and putties. In modern garden centers, you can find many ready-made products (e.g., "RanNet" or other healing pastes). They often contain antiseptics and growth stimulants, which accelerate healing.
• Oil paint. Use only paint based on natural linseed oil. Synthetic paints can "clog" living tissues and hinder healing.

What not to do: Do not cover cuts with clay or soil. This does not protect against infections and can create a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic microorganisms.

2. Fertilization

Pruning stimulates the growth of new shoots, which requires significant expenditure of nutrients from the plant. Therefore, after pruning, the bushes especially need enhanced nutrition.

When and what to feed:

• Early spring (after main pruning): At this time, nitrogen fertilizers are applied (e.g., ammonium nitrate, urea). Nitrogen stimulates vigorous shoot growth and the buildup of green mass. Apply nitrogen according to the recommendations on the package (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000). For an adult bush, 30–50 g of ammonium nitrate or 20–30 g of urea is usually sufficient.
• Summer-autumn period (after summer corrective pruning): At this time, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied (superphosphate, potassium salt, or wood ash). They promote shoot ripening, strengthen immunity, and set flower buds for the future harvest (Potapov et al., 2000). Doses: about 50–60 g of superphosphate and 20–30 g of potassium salt per bush (or a glass of wood ash).

Important: Do not overfeed the bushes with nitrogen in the second half of summer! This will lead to prolonged shoot growth that will not have time to ripen by winter and will freeze.

3. Watering and Mulching

Pruning increases moisture evaporation through wounds, so the bush needs a good water supply for rapid healing.

Watering: Water the bush abundantly immediately after pruning, especially if the spring has been dry. Soak the soil well to the depth of the bulk of the roots (up to 30–40 cm). Continue regular watering during the period of active shoot growth and berry formation (Buckingham, 2010).

Mulching: After watering, mulch the root zone with a layer of organic matter: humus, compost, peat, or mown grass (layer 5–10 cm). Mulch performs several important functions at once (Hessayon, 1993):

• Retains moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering.
• Suppresses weed growth, freeing you from weeding.
• Serves as an additional source of nutrition, gradually decomposing and enriching the soil.

4. Protection from Diseases and Pests

Pruning, especially sanitary pruning, is a disease prevention measure. But remember: all pruned diseased branches that you have removed must be immediately burned or removed from the site (Bowling, 2000; Buckingham, 2010). Leaving them near the base of the bush or using them for mulching is strictly forbidden – it will create a new source of infection.

Also, after pruning, especially if you have removed diseased branches, it is useful to carry out a preventive treatment of the bush and the soil under it with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or other copper-containing preparations to prevent fungal diseases.

5. Recovery (Rehabilitation)

If the pruning was very heavy (rejuvenation), the plant will need more time to recover. In this case, it is especially important to ensure:

• Regular feeding with complex fertilizers (with micronutrients) throughout the season.
• Sufficient moisture.
• Protection from stress: avoid drying out of the soil, sudden temperature changes, and pest attacks.

Summary: Post-pruning care is a set of measures aimed at rapid wound healing, stimulating the growth of new shoots, and preparing the plant for fruiting. It includes protecting the cuts, balanced nutrition (nitrogen in spring, phosphorus and potassium in summer and autumn), abundant watering, and mulching. Do not forget also the timely removal of pruned branches, especially diseased ones, and carrying out preventive treatments against diseases. Proper care will help your currant bushes quickly recover from the "surgery" and prepare for the new season with a bountiful harvest.

We are approaching the end of our practical guide. In the final chapter, we will analyze the most common mistakes made by gardeners and answer popular questions about currant pruning.

Common Pruning Mistakes

1. Heavy shortening of branches (as for black currant).

This is perhaps the most common and dangerous mistake. Remember: in red, white, and golden currants, the bulk of the harvest is formed on bouquet twigs (spurs) located along the entire length of the perennial wood. When you shorten a branch, you remove a significant portion of these fruit formations and deprive yourself of the future harvest (Tarasov, 1981; Potapov et al., 2000).

• How to avoid: Shorten only young, annual shoots, and only to stimulate branching or remove a weak tip. Do not shorten old, formed branches at all! Your main technique is cutting out whole branches "at the collar".

2. Leaving stubs.

By leaving stubs from cut branches, you create a "home" for pests and a "gateway" for infections. Stubs do not heal but begin to rot, allowing infection to penetrate deeper and affect healthy wood (Hessayon, 1993).

• How to avoid: Always cut branches at the very base, leaving no stubs. If the branch is thick, first saw it from below, then from above, to avoid tearing the bark.

3. Pruning at the wrong time (especially in autumn).

Autumn pruning, especially when frost arrives, is very traumatic for the plant. Wounds heal slowly, the bush weakens before winter and may freeze (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

• How to avoid: Perform the main pruning in early spring (in late February–March, before bud break). At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and cuts dry out quickly. Light corrective pruning can be done in summer, after harvest.

4. Neglecting sanitary pruning.

Many gardeners believe that it is enough to perform formative pruning every 2–3 years. However, without annual sanitary pruning, the bush quickly fills with dry, diseased, and damaged branches, which become a source of infection and reduce yield (Bowling, 2000; Buckingham, 2010).

• How to avoid: Annually in early spring, and also during the season, regularly inspect the bush and remove all dry, broken, diseased, and weak branches. Do not wait for the disease to affect the entire bush!

5. Planting too densely and insufficient thinning.

A dense bush is a guarantee of poor lighting, poor ventilation, and consequently, diseases and small berries. Shoots compete with each other for light and nutrition, and the bush "produces" yield only on the periphery (Tarasov, 1981).

• How to avoid: Remember that red and white currant bushes should be open. Do not leave more than 10–15 branches in the bush (for golden currant – 8–10). Annually remove old, weak, and thickening shoots.

Questions and Answers (FAQ)

Question 1: How to determine that a branch is old and needs to be removed?

• Answer: Old branches are easy to identify by their appearance. They are usually dark grey, with peeling bark, and often have mosses and lichens. Growth on such branches is short (less than 15 cm), weak, and thin. The yield on them decreases, berries become small. For red and white currants – these are branches older than 7–8 years, for golden currant – older than 5–7 years (Dankov, 2015; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Question 2: Can currants be pruned in autumn?

• Answer: It is best to avoid autumn pruning, especially in regions with cold climates. Autumn wounds heal slowly, and the bush goes into winter weakened. If there is an urgent need (e.g., a branch broke), pruning is done after leaf fall, when the plant is already dormant, and cuts are necessarily covered with grafting wax (Buckingham, 2010).

Question 3: What to do if the bush is heavily neglected and I don't know where to start?

• Answer: Proceed step by step; do not try to fix everything in one season. In the first year, remove all dry, diseased, and the oldest branches. Also remove all weak and thickening shoots. In the second year, continue replacing old branches with young ones. As a result, the bush will be completely renewed in 2–3 years. This procedure is described in detail in the chapter "Rejuvenation of Old Bushes".

Question 4: Should variety be considered when pruning currants?

• Answer: Definitely! Varieties with high shoot-forming ability require more careful management of shoots and thinning. Varieties with low ability require stimulation of new shoots and rejuvenation. Read more about varietal characteristics in the special chapter.

Question 5: What if I have already made a mistake and heavily shortened the branches?

• Answer: Do not panic. If you removed the bouquet twigs, there will be no harvest on these branches this year. Recovery will take 1–2 years. Compensate for the loss by providing the bush with enhanced nutrition (fertilization, watering) and do not repeat the mistake in the future.

Question 6: Should cuts be treated with grafting wax?

• Answer: Yes, definitely, especially if the cut diameter exceeds 1 cm. This protects against infections and accelerates healing. For small cuts (up to 0.5 cm thick), treatment is not mandatory but recommended. Do not cover cuts with clay or soil (Hessayon, 1993).

Summary: Pruning currants is not just the mechanical removal of branches, but a whole science based on knowledge of the plant's biology. The main mistakes are excessive shortening, leaving stubs, and failing to observe timing. If you follow our advice, consider varietal characteristics, and are not afraid to remove the excess, your red, white, and golden currant bushes will reward you with health and abundant harvests of large, sweet berries for many years.

We hope this guide will help you confidently handle your pruners and grow wonderful currants!