Establishing a Garden and Planting Red, White, and Golden Currants

Autumn Planting – The Preferred Option

For most regions with a temperate climate, the optimal time for planting currants is autumn (Buckingham, 2010; Kurennoi et al., 1985). In the central belt of Russia and climatically similar regions, the best results are achieved with planting in late September to the first half of October (Potapov et al., 2000).

Advantages of autumn planting:

• Plants have time to establish roots before persistent frosts set in. Even after the above-ground part enters dormancy, the root system continues to develop at positive soil temperatures.
• In spring, at the start of the growing season, the saplings already have a formed root system and begin to grow immediately, outpacing spring-planted plants in development.
• In autumn, the soil is better moistened, reducing the need for frequent watering.
• Nurseries offer the widest selection of high-quality planting material in autumn.

An important condition: autumn planting should be carried out 1.5–2 months before the onset of persistent cold weather, allowing the plant time to adapt to its new location (Krivko, 2014). Approximate timing: for most regions – from late September to mid-October. In southern areas, these dates shift to late October – November.

Spring Planting – An Alternative Option

Spring planting is also possible, especially in regions with harsh, low-snow winters where there is a risk of young autumn saplings freezing (Potapov et al., 2000). However, spring planting has significant limitations.

Characteristics of spring planting:

• It should be done as early as possible – before bud break, as soon as soil conditions allow. Currant buds awaken very early, so any delay in planting sharply reduces survival rates (Hessayon, 1993).
• In northern and north-western regions, and in Siberia, the main planting time is early spring (Krivko, 2014).
• Spring-planted plants require more careful care, especially regular watering in the first month after planting, as spring moisture may be insufficient.
• Spring saplings often lag in growth compared to autumn plantings from the same year.

Experienced gardeners note that with spring planting, plants establish themselves less successfully and develop more slowly, making autumn planting the more reliable option (Hill & Perry, 2011).

Planting Container-Grown Plants

Saplings with a closed root system (grown in containers) have an important advantage: they can be planted throughout the growing season, weather permitting (Buckingham, 2010). The root system of such plants is not damaged during transplanting, ensuring high survival rates.

However, even for container plants, autumn and spring remain the most favourable periods. During hot summer months, planting carries a risk of drying out and requires especially careful care.

Regional Characteristics

There are no universal planting dates – the choice depends on the climatic conditions of a specific region:

• Regions with mild winters and sufficient snow cover (central and southern parts of the temperate zone): Autumn planting is preferred. Plants overwinter well under snow and start growing early in spring.
• Regions with harsh, low-snow winters (Siberia, the Urals, northern areas): Autumn planting is risky – young saplings may freeze. Here, spring planting is more reliable, immediately after the soil thaws (Krivko, 2014).
• Southern regions with hot, dry climates: Autumn planting is preferred, as it allows plants to root before the onset of summer heat. However, it should be noted that golden currant is more drought-tolerant than red and white currants and is better adapted to southern conditions (Krivko, 2014).
• Regions with warm and long autumns: Avoid planting too early (August), as warm weather can trigger the growth of new shoots that will not have time to mature before winter and may freeze.

How to Determine the Optimal Time in Your Region

A universal guideline for autumn planting is the period when the plant has already dropped its leaves and entered dormancy, but there are at least 3–4 weeks left before frost. For most regions, this is the second half of September – early October.

For spring planting, the main guide is the condition of the soil. It should have thawed and warmed enough to be workable, but saplings must be planted before the buds on the plant swell (usually late April – the first half of May in the central belt).

General Requirements for Saplings

For establishing commercial and amateur plantations, one- or two-year-old saplings of the first and second grade are used (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000). In retail, two-year-old plants are most often offered, which already have a developed root system and 2–3 shoots. The main signs of a quality sapling are a healthy appearance, freedom from diseases and pests, and good development of both the root system and the above-ground part.

Here is what to pay attention to when inspecting a sapling:

Root System

The roots of a healthy sapling should be:

• Well-developed and fibrous, with many fine absorbing rootlets. For first-grade currant saplings, at least 4 main roots, 15–20 cm long, are required; for second grade – at least 3 roots, 10–15 cm long (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Fresh and elastic, without signs of drying out, rot, or mechanical damage. When cut, the roots should be light and alive. Dry, brittle, or darkened roots indicate poor-quality material.
• Evenly distributed around the root collar, without being one-sided.

When buying a sapling with bare roots, it is crucial that the roots are protected from drying out – packed in damp moss, sawdust, or clay slurry. If the roots are bare and dried out, the plant's survival rate will be low.

Above-Ground Part (Shoots)

The shoots of a quality sapling should meet the following criteria:

• For one-year-old saplings – presence of one or two well-ripened shoots, at least 30–40 cm long for currants (similar norms apply) (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• For two-year-old saplings – at least two shoots, 40 cm or longer for currants, with a base diameter of at least 0.8 cm for the first grade and 0.6 cm for the second (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Bark should be smooth, without cracks, swellings, signs of pest damage (e.g., scale insects), or fungal diseases (anthracnose, powdery mildew). Buds should be plump, healthy, and without signs of drying.
• Varietal purity – 100%, meaning the sapling must belong to the stated variety. This is particularly important for varietal forms, as seed propagation leads to trait segregation (Krivko, 2014).

It is important to remember that red, white, and golden currants have their own varietal characteristics. In red and white currants, buds are often grouped in "bouquet" clusters at the boundaries of annual growth, whereas in black currants they are more evenly distributed (Potapov et al., 2000). Knowing these features can help verify the correct variety when selecting a sapling.

Container Plants (Closed Root System)

Saplings grown in containers have several advantages:

• Their root system is not damaged during transplanting – all roots are inside the root ball, so survival rates are practically 100%.
• Such plants can be planted throughout the growing season (from spring to autumn), weather permitting (Buckingham, 2010; Hessayon, 1993).
• They start growing faster after planting and suffer less from drought.

When choosing a container sapling, pay attention to:

• The condition of the root ball – it should be firm, and roots should not be excessively protruding or circling (this indicates the plant has outgrown the container).
• The overall condition of the plant – leaves (if present) should be healthy, without spots; shoots should be mature.
• Age – 1–2-year-old plants are preferable.

What to Look for When Buying: Health and Variety

• Absence of disease and pest signs. Particularly dangerous for currants are the bud mite (causing swollen, "round" buds that do not open in spring), aphids, and viral diseases (reversion). Saplings should show no signs of powdery mildew (white coating), anthracnose (brown spots), or pest eggs and larvae (Cornell Guide, 2010; Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Zoned varieties. It is better to choose varieties recommended for your region. They are better adapted to local climatic conditions, more winter-hardy, and resistant to common diseases (Kurennoi et al., 1985). For example, golden currant, with its high drought tolerance, is preferable for southern regions (Krivko, 2014).
• Resistance to white spot (anthracnose) and powdery mildew. Modern varieties often possess genetic resistance to these diseases, significantly easing maintenance.
• Labelling. The label or accompanying documents should specify: the variety name, sapling age, grade (first or second), packaging or shipping date, batch number, and GOST compliance information (for commercial nurseries) (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Where to Buy Saplings

It is best to purchase planting material from specialised fruit nurseries or reliable suppliers who have product certificates and engage in plant health improvement. This guarantees that the saplings are virus-free and true to variety (Hessayon, 1993; Hill & Perry, 2011). Avoid buying from spontaneous markets, where substandard or mislabelled material is often offered.

Site Selection

Before discussing schemes and spacing, it is important to choose the right site. This affects not only productivity but also plant health.

• Lighting. Red, white, and golden currants are sun-loving crops. In the shade, they bear fruit poorly, berries become smaller, and plants are more susceptible to disease (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000). Therefore, the site should be open and well-lit by the sun for most of the day. An exception is southern regions with hot summers, where light shading during the hottest hours is acceptable to prevent overheating and sunburn.
• Wind protection. Currants react negatively to strong winds, which dry out the soil and can damage flowers during blooming. Sheltered locations are desirable – along building walls, fences, or near windbreaks. However, dense plantings and poor air circulation promote powdery mildew, so protection should be breezy, without stagnant air (Cornell Guide, 2010).
• Terrain. Level areas or gentle slopes (up to 5–8°) are best. Avoid lowlands where cold air accumulates and spring frosts are possible (especially dangerous for early-flowering red and white currants). In northern regions, southern and south-western slopes are preferred; in southern regions, northern and north-western slopes (Potapov et al., 2000).
• Soil and Moisture. Currants are demanding in terms of soil fertility and moisture. The best soils are fertile, loose loams and sandy loams with good air and water permeability, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5–7.0). Groundwater should not be closer than 1–1.5 m from the surface (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Hill & Perry, 2011). On heavy, waterlogged soils, plants suffer and fail.

Crop Rotation: Why You Should Not Plant Currants After Currants

An important planning aspect often overlooked is crop rotation. Currants are not recommended for planting on sites where they have grown in the last 5–7 years, or after crops with common diseases and pests (e.g., gooseberries, raspberries). Otherwise, plants will be more severely affected by soil fatigue, disease build-up, and pests, reducing their productivity (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

The best predecessors for currants are clean fallow, green manure crops (lupine, mustard, phacelia), perennial legumes (clover, alfalfa), cereals (winter rye, oats), and vegetable crops, except potatoes, tomatoes, and other nightshades (which are susceptible to verticillium wilt, dangerous for currants) (Potapov et al., 2000). This rule is especially important for establishing commercial plantations, but should also be observed in home gardens.

Choosing a Planting Scheme

The planting scheme depends on the biological characteristics of the crop, soil fertility, equipment used, and the planned lifespan of the plantation. The following options are recommended for red, white, golden currants, and gooseberries.

Traditional (Wide-Row) Scheme

• Row spacing: 2.5–3 m
• Spacing between bushes in the row: 0.7–1 m
• Planting density: 3,300–5,700 bushes per hectare (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000)

This scheme is suitable for amateur gardens and small farms where care (weeding, loosening, pruning, berry picking) is done manually or with small-scale equipment. Row spacings of 2.5–3 m provide good illumination and convenient access.

Dense (Narrow-Row) Scheme

• Row spacing: 2–2.2 m (up to 1.8 m when using high-clearance tractors)
• Spacing between bushes: 0.6–0.7 m
• Planting density: 6,600–8,300 bushes per hectare (Potapov et al., 2000; Kurennoi et al., 1985)

This scheme allows for quicker attainment of full yields, as bushes fill the allocated space sooner. However, it requires more intensive nutrition and watering, as well as the use of machinery for inter-row cultivation. For red and white currants, which produce fewer root suckers than black currants, a scheme of 3 × 0.7 m can be used (Potapov et al., 2000).

For golden currant – as a more vigorous and spreading shrub, row spacing is increased to 2.5–3 m, and between bushes to 1–1.2 m (Krivko, 2014). It forms large bushes and needs more space.

Important: the above schemes are designed for commercial production. In an amateur garden, you can increase the distances for maximum ease of maintenance.

Row Orientation

Row orientation on the site affects plant lighting and inter-row ventilation.

• On level sites, rows should be oriented north-south (or with a slight deviation). This orientation ensures more even illumination of the bushes throughout the day.
• On slopes, rows should run across the slope (horizontally) – this prevents water erosion and promotes better moisture and snow retention (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

Space for Passages and Roads

Even on a small plot, it is necessary to provide roads and passages for maintenance and harvesting.

• Headlands 6–10 m wide are left at the edges of the plot (along the short side of the quarter) for machinery turning (Potapov et al., 2000).
• Inter-quarter roads (if you have several plots) 5–6 m wide.
• Intra-quarter roads (between groups of rows) 3–4 m wide every 100 m – provide access to any part of the site (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• In an amateur garden, it is sufficient to leave passages 0.8–1 m wide between rows to allow free movement with a bucket or cart, and if necessary, a garden wheelbarrow.

Practical Recommendations for the Amateur Garden

Based on biological characteristics and years of experience, the following parameters can be recommended for a small garden:

• Row spacing – 2–2.5 m (this allows comfortable care and harvesting).
• Spacing between bushes in the row – 0.8–1 m for red and white currants, 1–1.2 m for golden currant.
• Bushes can be planted in a staggered arrangement or strictly in a line to ensure even lighting.
• On the south side of the plot, it is recommended to place lower-growing plants, and on the north side – taller ones (if varieties of different heights are available), to avoid shading.

When establishing several rows, it is desirable for the row direction to be north-south or along the slope, as indicated above. This is especially important in regions with a lack of sunlight.

When to Prepare the Holes

Preparation of planting holes or trenches should be done well in advance to allow the soil to settle and the added fertilisers to mix and partially dissolve.

• For autumn planting, holes are prepared 3–4 weeks before planting (Hessayon, 1993). This can be done as early as late August – early September.
• For spring planting, holes are prepared in autumn, allowing them to "winter" so the soil settles and warms up properly in early spring (Buckingham, 2010; Potapov et al., 2000).
• If preparing holes in advance is not possible for some reason, they can be dug immediately before planting, but then the soil must be well compacted after planting and watered abundantly to eliminate voids.

Sizes of Planting Holes and Trenches

The hole size depends on soil fertility and the planting method.

For single planting (bushes placed separately):

• Recommended size: diameter 50–60 cm, depth 40–50 cm (Buckingham, 2010; Hill & Perry, 2011). On poor soils, make the hole wider (up to 70–80 cm) and deeper (up to 60 cm) to improve the root zone. On fertile black earth, a size of 40×40 cm may suffice.

For planting in a row (trench method) – if you are planting many bushes in a single line:

• It is recommended to dig a trench 50–60 cm wide and 40–50 cm deep for the entire length of the row (Krivko, 2014). This simplifies the process, ensures uniform conditions for all plants, and allows better incorporation of organic matter.

On heavy clay soils, the hole size should be increased, and a drainage layer (broken brick, gravel, expanded clay) 10–15 cm thick must be placed at the bottom to prevent water stagnation, which currants tolerate poorly (Hessayon, 1993; Hill & Perry, 2011).

Filling the Planting Hole with Fertilisers

Currants are highly responsive to organic and mineral fertilisers applied at planting. These provide the plant with nutrients for the first 2–3 years. It is important to follow dosages and not overdo the mineral fertilisers.

Basic recipe for filling one planting hole (50×50 cm):

• Organic matter: 8–10 kg of well-rotted manure or compost (can be mixed with peat). Use only well-rotted manure (2–3 years old); fresh manure can burn young roots and cause disease (Potapov et al., 2000; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Phosphorus fertilisers: 150–200 g of superphosphate (double – 80–100 g). Phosphorus promotes vigorous root system development.
• Potassium fertilisers: 40–60 g of potassium sulphate. Red and white currants are sensitive to chlorine, so potassium chloride is not recommended – it can cause chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) and growth inhibition (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Hill & Perry, 2011). Chlorine-free potassium fertilisers are also preferred for golden currant.
• Wood ash: 300–500 g – a good source of potassium and microelements, and it also deacidifies the soil, beneficial on acidic soils.

Important: On fertile soils, the fertiliser rate can be reduced by 30–50%; on poor soils, increased. On acidic soils (pH below 5.5), liming – applying lime or dolomite flour (3–6 t/ha, or 200–300 g per hole) – is recommended 1–2 years before planting (Potapov et al., 2000). At planting, 100–200 g of dolomite flour can be added to the prepared hole.

Mixing: All fertilisers are thoroughly mixed with the top fertile soil layer removed from the hole. The lower, less fertile layer is used to fill the hole, but it should be improved by mixing with organic matter and some of the mineral fertilisers.

Hole Preparation Technique

1. Remove the top fertile soil layer (about 20–25 cm) and set it aside. Place the lower, less fertile layer separately.

2. At the bottom of the hole (if the soil is heavy), place a drainage layer of gravel, broken brick, or expanded clay, 10–15 cm thick.

3. Prepare the nutrient mixture: add organic matter and mineral fertilisers to the top fertile layer and mix thoroughly.

4. Fill the hole with this mixture to about 2/3 of its depth, forming a mound. Cover with the remaining soil (without fertilisers) or just more of the fertilised mixture, mixing well. The soil should be compacted, but not packed to stone hardness.

5. Water the hole thoroughly with 1–2 buckets of water to allow the soil to settle naturally. After settling, add more soil if needed, and leave until planting.

Specifics for Red, White, and Golden Currants

Although all these species belong to the genus Ribes, there are slight differences in their soil and nutritional requirements:

• Red and white currants are less demanding of organic matter than black currants but respond well to phosphorus and potassium. When filling the hole for them, you can slightly reduce the share of nitrogen fertilisers (or omit them entirely, as nitrogen is often present in organic matter) and focus on phosphorus-potassium ones. Excess nitrogen can stimulate excessive shoot growth at the expense of fruiting.
• Golden currant is more drought-tolerant and less demanding of soil. It grows well even on stony and gravelly soils, but filling the hole with organic matter is also done to obtain abundant yields (Krivko, 2014). However, excess moisture is harmful to it, so drainage on heavy soils is mandatory.

Alternative: Preparing Trenches for Planting Many Bushes

If you are planting a long row or several rows, digging a trench of the same depth (40–50 cm) and width (50–60 cm) is more convenient than individual holes. Place organic matter and mineral fertilisers at the bottom of the trench, mix with soil, then cover with the remaining soil and water. Calculate fertilisers per linear metre of trench: about 8–10 kg of compost, 150–200 g of superphosphate, 40–60 g of potassium sulphate per 1 m of length. After the soil settles (in 2–3 weeks), planting can begin.

General Recommendations

• Holes (or trenches) should be prepared in an unshaded, well-lit location.
• If the soil is heavily infested with perennial rhizomatous weeds (couch grass, dandelion, sow thistle), they must be carefully removed manually, or herbicides used a year before planting (at the field preparation stage) (Potapov et al., 2000).
• When preparing holes on poor sandy soils, add clay (2–3 buckets per hole) along with organic matter to improve water-holding capacity. On heavy clay soils, conversely, add sand to improve drainage.

Basic Planting Rules

Saplings with bare root systems (BRS) are planted only during dormancy – in autumn (after leaf fall) or early spring (before bud break). Saplings with closed root systems (container-grown) can be planted throughout the season, but the same timing as for BRS is preferred.

Before planting, carefully inspect the sapling:

• Remove broken, dried, or damaged roots, cutting them back to healthy tissue.
• If the roots are dry, soak the sapling in water for 2–4 hours (or overnight) before planting. A root stimulant (e.g., heteroauxin or rootone) can be added to the water according to instructions (Hessayon, 1993; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• The above-ground part (shoots) should be shortened before planting, leaving 2–3 well-developed buds on each shoot. This stimulates the formation of new basal shoots and better survival. For one-year-old saplings, shoots are cut at a height of 10–15 cm from the soil level (Potapov et al., 2000; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Planting Depth – A Crucial Factor

For red, white, and golden currants, deep planting is recommended – the root collar (the transition point between roots and stem) should be placed 5–7 cm below the soil surface on light soils and 3–5 cm on heavy soils (Buckingham, 2010; Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000). Why is this important?

• Deep planting stimulates the formation of additional adventitious roots on the buried part of the stem. This results in a more powerful, fibrous root system, improving nutrition and plant stability.
• Buds on the buried part of the stem produce strong basal shoots (zero shoots), which help rejuvenate the bush and form a full-fledged bush with several skeletal branches.
• For red and white currants, which produce fewer root suckers, deep planting is especially important – it helps form a more spreading and productive bush.

However, planting should not be excessively deep: too deep planting suppresses shoot growth. The optimal depth is 5–7 cm below the level of the root collar as it was in the nursery (determined by the soil mark on the stem).

Planting at an Angle

For black currants, planting saplings at an angle (45°) is often recommended (Kurennoi et al., 1985). For red, white, and golden currants, this is less critical but still acceptable. Angled planting promotes the formation of additional roots along the buried stem and more active growth of basal shoots. However, many gardeners plant red and white currants vertically – this also gives good results, as long as the planting depth is correct.

Step-by-Step Planting Instructions

1. Mark the planting spots according to the chosen scheme (distances between bushes and rows). Stretch a string along the row line for straight planting.

2. Dig a hole in the prepared pit (or trench) large enough so that the sapling's roots fit freely without bending upwards or sideways. Usually, a hole 15–20 cm deep and as wide as the spread root system is sufficient.

3. Form a mound of fertile soil at the bottom of the hole (without fertilisers at the bottom to prevent roots from contacting concentrated mineral fertilisers, which can burn them). Place the sapling on this mound, spreading the roots evenly downwards and to the sides (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

4. Orient the sapling so that the buds on the stem point upwards. For angled planting, place the sapling at a 45° angle, with the top pointing south (towards the sun) and the root collar north (according to some recommendations). However, the main goal is to ensure even lighting and convenient access.

5. Cover the roots with soil, periodically shaking the sapling so that the soil fills all gaps between the roots. Compact the soil by hand (or foot) in stages to avoid voids. Ensure the root collar ends up 5–7 cm below the soil surface (similar for angled planting).

6. Form a watering basin – a small depression around the sapling, about 30–40 cm in diameter, to prevent water from spreading during watering.

7. Water abundantly – at least 1–2 buckets of water per sapling, even if the soil is moist. Water compacts the soil around the roots and removes air pockets (Buckingham, 2010; Hill & Perry, 2011).

8. After watering, when the water has been absorbed, check the planting depth (the root collar should remain at the correct depth). If the soil has settled, add more soil to the appropriate level.

9. Mulch the root zone with a layer of peat, humus, compost, or dry grass, 5–8 cm thick. This retains moisture, prevents crust formation and weed growth, and protects roots from overheating (Hessayon, 1993; Potapov et al., 2000).

Planting Container-Grown Plants

Container saplings are planted similarly to BRS, but with some differences:

• Water the container before planting to prevent the root ball from falling apart.
• Carefully remove the plant from the container, trying not to damage the root ball. If the roots are heavily circled, make a few vertical cuts on the surface of the ball to stimulate new root growth.
• Place the sapling in the hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface (or slightly lower – by 2–3 cm for slight burying). Deep planting of container plants as for BRS is not recommended, as they already have a formed root system, and excessive burying can lead to stem rot.
• Fill the gaps between the ball and the hole walls with fertile soil, compact, water, and mulch.

Important: When planting container plants in summer (outside optimal times), be sure to shade them for 1–2 weeks and water more frequently to reduce stress.

What to Do with Shoots After Planting

Immediately after planting, the above-ground part of the sapling must be shortened. This is done to balance the volume of roots and shoots. With an insufficient root system, long shoots can desiccate the plant, reducing survival.

• For one-year-old saplings, leave 2–3 buds on each shoot (height 10–15 cm from the soil surface).
• For two-year-old saplings, leave 3–4 buds on each skeletal shoot.
• All weak, thin, and damaged shoots should be removed entirely.

This pruning stimulates the formation of new strong basal shoots from the buried buds, laying the foundation for the future bush (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

Specifics of Planting Golden Currant

Golden currant is distinguished by more vigorous growth and longevity, so consider the following when planting:

• Plant it slightly deeper – by 7–8 cm – to stimulate the formation of additional roots and basal shoots (Krivko, 2014).
• Increase the spacing between bushes to 1–1.2 m (up to 1.5 m for vigorous varieties), as it forms more spreading bushes.
• Post-planting pruning is the same as for other species – leave 2–3 buds per shoot.

In the next chapter, we will discuss care immediately after planting: watering, mulching, weed control, and possible fertilisation in the first year.

Watering: The Foundation of Establishment

Moisture is the most important factor for the sapling's establishment. Even if planting was done in rainy weather, regular watering is necessary.

• Immediately after planting – abundant watering (1–2 buckets of water per bush) is mandatory, even if the soil is moist. This compacts the soil around the roots and removes air pockets (Buckingham, 2010; Hill & Perry, 2011).
• In the first week after planting (especially in dry and windy weather), water every other day or every two days, using 0.5–1 bucket per bush. The main thing is not to let the root zone dry out, but also not to overwater.
• During the first month – water as the top layer of soil dries out, about 1–2 times a week, depending on the weather. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil to a depth of 5–8 cm to prevent crust formation.
• In autumn (if spring planting occurred), especially in dry weather, carry out moisture-charging irrigation (2–3 buckets per bush) before the onset of cold weather. This helps the plant winter better (Potapov et al., 2000).

Important: when watering, try not to wash away the soil at the base of the stem. It is better to make a groove around the bush or use drip irrigation.

Mulching: Retaining Moisture and Suppressing Weeds

Mulching is one of the most effective care techniques after planting. It provides several benefits at once:

• Retains moisture in the soil, reducing watering frequency.
• Prevents weed growth, which competes with the young plant for water and nutrients.
• Protects roots from overheating in summer and from freezing in winter (especially important for autumn plantings).
• Gradually decomposing, it improves soil structure and serves as an additional nutrient source.

What to use for mulching:

• Well-rotted manure, compost, peat, humus – layer 5–8 cm (Buckingham, 2010; Hessayon, 1993).
• Mown grass, straw, sawdust (only well-rotted or with added nitrogen fertilisers, as fresh sawdust binds nitrogen) (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Special black non-woven material (weed fabric) – it suppresses weeds well and allows water and air to pass through.

Apply mulch immediately after watering around the root zone, approximately 40–50 cm in diameter. Leave a gap of 2–3 cm from the stem itself to avoid bark rot. In autumn, increase the mulch layer to protect the root system from frost (especially in regions with low-snow winters).

Loosening and Weed Removal

In the first year after planting, the root zone and row middles should be kept free of weeds.

• Loosen the soil in the root zone to a depth of 5–8 cm, being careful not to damage young roots. It is better to do this manually (with a garden hoe or hand cultivator), especially in the first year.
• In the row middles, cultivation to a depth of 8–10 cm can be used, but with caution to avoid damaging roots that may have spread beyond the planting hole (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Mulching significantly reduces the need for weeding and loosening, so it is especially recommended for busy gardeners.

Fertilisation in the First Year

If the planting hole was filled with organic and mineral fertilisers according to recommendations (see chapter 4), then no additional fertilisation is required in the first year. An excess of nutrients (especially nitrogen) can stimulate overly active shoot growth at the expense of root system development and reduce the plant's winter hardiness (Hessayon, 1993; Potapov et al., 2000).

If planting was done without filling (on poor soils), you can apply:

• In spring (after growth starts) – nitrogen fertiliser: 10–15 g of ammonium nitrate or 15–20 g of urea per bush, dissolved in water (or worked into the soil during loosening).
• At the end of summer (August) – phosphorus and potassium fertilisation for better shoot ripening: 20–30 g of superphosphate and 10–15 g of potassium sulphate per bush (chlorine-free!) (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

However, it is still better to fill the hole properly in advance to avoid fertilisation in the first year.

Protection from Pests and Diseases

Young saplings can suffer from pests, especially aphids and bud mites. They are also more vulnerable to fungal diseases (anthracnose, powdery mildew). However, in the first year after planting, chemical treatments should be kept to a minimum.

• Prevention: Keep the root zone clean, remove affected leaves and shoots.
• If aphids or other sap-sucking pests appear, use a soap solution or garlic/tobacco infusion (folk remedies). From biological preparations – Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin (according to instructions).
• For bud mites – inspect buds in autumn and spring, manually pluck out swollen buds (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• To prevent fungal diseases (especially in wet years), spray bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate (according to instructions) in early spring before bud break.

Protection from Birds and Rodents

• Birds in winter may peck at buds (especially on red and white currants). For protection, use non-woven cover material or fine-mesh netting draped over the bushes for the winter (Buckingham, 2010; Hessayon, 1993).
• Rodents (voles, hares) can damage the bark at the base of the stem. For protection, wrap the stems with spruce branches, special mesh, or use repellents. Tamping down snow around the bushes in winter also helps (Hill & Perry, 2011).

Preparing for Winter (for Autumn and Spring Plantings)

• For autumn plantings: after watering and mulching, additional cover is not required if the winter is snowy. However, in low-snow regions, it is recommended to additionally hill up the base of the bush with soil or humus to a height of 10–15 cm to protect the root collar and lower buds from freezing (Kurennoi et al., 1985). In spring, this soil is removed from the base.
• For spring plantings in the first year, pay special attention to watering during dry periods and shading (if the weather is hot). For winter (in the first year), it is also advisable to mulch the root zone with a thicker layer (up to 10 cm) to protect the young roots.

What Not to Do in the First Year

• Do not allow fruiting – remove all flowers that appear on the sapling in the first year after planting. This allows the plant to direct all its energy towards root system development and bush formation (Hessayon, 1993). If flowers appear in the second year, their number should also be limited, but this is less critical.
• Do not apply large doses of nitrogen fertilisers after mid-summer – this can provoke late shoot growth that will not mature and will freeze in winter.
• Avoid both drying out and waterlogging of the soil – both are detrimental to the young plant.

In the next, concluding chapter, we will cover the most common mistakes when establishing a garden and planting currants, and answer popular gardener questions (FAQ).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Why does the sapling establish poorly, even though I followed all the instructions?

There may be several reasons. The most common is drying out of the roots before planting or insufficient watering afterwards (Hessayon, 1993). Even short-term drying of the fine absorbing rootlets sharply reduces survival rates. A second common reason is planting in unsuitable soil (heavy, waterlogged, or too acidic). Third – burying the root collar more than 8–10 cm deep – this suppresses shoot growth and can lead to stem rot (Potapov et al., 2000). Finally, the sapling may be weakened by diseases or pests that were not apparent at purchase.

2. What should I do if I planted the sapling too shallow or too deep?

If planting was done incorrectly, it can be corrected, but only in the first 1–2 years.

• Too shallow (root collar at or above soil level): carefully hill up the base of the bush with soil or humus so that the root collar ends up 5–7 cm below the soil surface. This stimulates the formation of additional roots. Instead of hilling, the plant can be replanted, but this should only be done in early spring or autumn during dormancy (Buckingham, 2010).
• Too deep (root collar more than 10 cm below): remove excess soil from the base of the stem to expose the root collar to the correct level. Do this carefully to avoid damaging the bark. If the stem has begun to rot, try replanting the plant higher, but chances of success are reduced.

3. Can I plant red and white currants next to black currants? If so, at what distance?

Yes, but with some nuances. All currant species belong to the genus Ribes and can share common pests and diseases (e.g., bud mite, anthracnose, powdery mildew). Therefore, when planting different species together, leave at least 2–2.5 m between rows of different species, and at least 1–1.2 m between bushes (Hill & Perry, 2011). Additionally, different species have different flowering and pollination requirements, so for better pollination, it is recommended to plant at least two varieties of the same species nearby (e.g., two red currant varieties for cross-pollination, although red and white currants are mostly self-fertile) (Potapov et al., 2000; Kurennoi et al., 1985).

4. Should I prune the sapling immediately after planting? And how?

Yes, absolutely. Shortening shoots immediately after planting is a critically important step. It balances the volume of roots and shoots, reduces moisture evaporation, and stimulates the formation of new basal shoots from the buried buds.

How to do it correctly: after planting, leave 2–3 well-developed buds on each shoot. For a one-year-old sapling, this means pruning to a height of 10–15 cm from the soil surface. For a two-year-old, leave 3–4 buds on each skeletal shoot. Remove all weak, thin, and damaged shoots entirely (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Potapov et al., 2000).

5. How many years after planting does a currant start bearing fruit?

Red and white currants come into bearing in the 2nd–3rd year after planting, reaching full production by the 4th–5th year (Buckingham, 2010; Hill & Perry, 2011). Golden currant typically starts fruiting in the 3rd–4th year (Krivko, 2014). However, in the first year after planting, it is recommended to remove all flowers so the plant focuses its energy on rooting and growth. In the second year, a small number of flowers can be left to taste the first berries, but do not overload the young bush.

6. What should be the soil acidity for currants? How to determine and change it?

For red, white, and golden currants, the optimal pH range is 5.5–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Hill & Perry, 2011). pH can be determined using litmus paper, a special tester, or by sending a soil sample to an agrochemical laboratory. If the soil is acidic (pH below 5.5), add lime or dolomite flour 1–2 years before planting at a rate of 3–6 t/ha (or 200–300 g per planting hole). On highly alkaline soils (pH above 7.5), currants grow poorly, suffering from chlorosis – in this case, specific measures are required (adding acid peat, sulphur, using acidic fertilisers).

7. Can I plant currants where an old bush was?

Absolutely not recommended. Currants should not be grown in the same spot for more than 10–12 years, and after removing old bushes, at least 5–7 years should pass before new planting (Potapov et al., 2000; Kurennoi et al., 1985). Otherwise, plants will suffer from soil fatigue, build-up of specific pests (nematodes, gall midges), and diseases (verticillium wilt). If there is no alternative, completely replace the soil in the planting hole with fresh soil from another location, add high doses of organic matter, and adhere to crop rotation thereafter.

Typical Mistakes When Establishing a Garden and Planting

Mistakes that even experienced gardeners can make, and how to avoid them:

Checklist: How to Check You've Done Everything Right

Go through this list after planting to make sure nothing has been overlooked:

• [ ] Sapling bought from a reliable nursery, variety suitable for your region.
• [ ] Roots soaked in water for 2–4 hours before planting (if dry).
• [ ] Planting hole prepared 3–4 weeks in advance, organic and mineral fertilisers applied (chlorine-free).
• [ ] Root collar buried 5–7 cm (for bare root systems) or 2–3 cm (for container plants).
• [ ] Roots spread out in the hole, not bent or tangled.
• [ ] After planting, abundant watering (1–2 buckets of water) and mulching.
• [ ] Shoots pruned, leaving 2–3 buds on each.
• [ ] Root zone mulched, mulch not touching the stem.
• [ ] Spacing to neighbouring plants and structures considered.
• [ ] Row oriented for optimal lighting (north-south or across the slope).

Conclusion

Establishing a currant garden is a sequential process, but not difficult if approached with an understanding of the crop's biological characteristics and adherence to basic agronomic rules. The right choice of timing, quality planting material, competent site planning, thorough hole preparation, and correct planting technique – all this lays the foundation for 8–12 years of productive life for your currant plantation.

Do not be afraid to experiment with varieties, but always consider the recommendations for your climatic region. And remember: even if something goes wrong, currants are resilient plants, and many mistakes can be corrected in the first years after planting. Timely watering, mulching, and attentive care will help the plants recover and reward you with abundant harvests of juicy, healthy berries.

We wish you successful planting and bountiful harvests!