Caring for Red, White, and Golden Currants

Root System Features and Cultivation

The key rule to remember: the bulk of the absorbing roots of red and white currants lies at a shallow depth. In red currant, the root system is more powerful than in black currant and is mainly concentrated in the 30–40 cm soil layer. However, in both red and white currants, most of the roots are in the topsoil, within the radius of the bush crown (Dan’kov, 2015). In golden currant, the roots go deeper, which makes it more drought‑resistant, but it also actively uses the upper, most fertile layer (Krivko, 2014).

This means that deep loosening or digging in the near‑stem circles and rows is strictly forbidden. Such actions inevitably damage the surface roots, which weakens the plant, reduces yield, and can even kill the bush. Soil cultivation must be carried out with great care.

How and when to loosen correctly:

• Loosening depth in rows and near‑stem circles: Should not exceed 6–8 cm (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). This is only the top layer that breaks the soil crust and destroys weed seedlings.
• Cultivation depth in the row‑spacings: Here, deeper cultivation can be done — up to 10–15 cm (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). This is done in autumn or early spring to improve soil structure and incorporate fertilisers.
• Timing of loosening: The best time for loosening is immediately after rain or watering, when the soil is in a state of physical ripeness (does not stick to the tool and does not dust). In spring, loosening helps retain moisture accumulated over winter. In summer, during dry weather, loosening helps fight soil crust and improves gas exchange. It is recommended to carry out 3–4 loosening operations in the row‑spacings per season, combining them with weeding (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Tools: For loosening in near‑stem circles, it is convenient to use small hoes, mattocks, or flat cutters. In the row‑spacings, cultivators, disc harrows, or rotary tillers can be used (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Combating Soil Compaction

Soil compaction is the main enemy of the root system. It occurs due to frequent watering by sprinkling, walking on wet ground, or if timely loosening is not carried out. In compacted soil, gas exchange is disrupted, roots suffer from oxygen starvation, which inhibits the plant and makes it more susceptible to diseases.

Main measures to combat compaction:

1. Regular surface loosening, as described above, prevents the formation of a dense crust.

2. Use of mulch. A thick layer of organic mulch protects the soil from overheating, wind, and rain, which contribute to compaction.

3. Minimising load on the soil. Try not to walk in near‑stem circles or place heavy objects there.

4. Autumn digging of row‑spacings. Carried out once a year, in autumn, to improve water permeability and aeration of deeper soil layers (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). At the same time, clods of earth are not broken up so that they freeze through in winter, which helps destroy overwintering stages of pests.

Maintaining Cleanliness

The soil under the bushes and in the row‑spacings must be kept free of weeds. Weeds not only compete with currants for moisture and nutrients, but also serve as a breeding ground for many pests and diseases (Hill & Perry, 2011). Perennial rhizomatous weeds, such as couch grass, are especially dangerous, as they are very difficult to remove without damaging the currant roots.

Alternative Strategy: Fallow and Green Manure

On industrial plantations, the soil is often kept under "black fallow" — systematically cultivated and kept clean and loose. In home gardens, it is also possible to mulch the row‑spacings or to grass them down if the plantings are sufficiently spaced.

In some agronomic systems, especially for black currants, but potentially applicable to other species, a strip system of bush management is practiced. In this case, the soil in the rows is kept under black fallow, but after several years, to rejuvenate the bushes, the above‑ground part is mown, and the soil is ploughed with heavy fertiliser application, allowing the plants to "rest" and re‑form (Tarasov, 1981). This method requires deep knowledge and is generally used in intensive horticulture.

For the amateur gardener, the main principles of soil care are carefulness and regularity. Following these simple rules will save you from many problems and provide the bushes with a comfortable life. In the next chapter, we will look at how mulching can greatly simplify soil care and improve growing conditions for currants.

Types of Mulch and Their Features

For currants, both organic and inorganic materials can be used. Each has its own advantages.

Organic mulch is the best choice for a gardener who cares about soil health.

Humus and compost. The ideal option. They not only mulch but also serve as a complete fertiliser that gradually releases nutrients to the roots (Hill & Perry, 2011). Well‑rotted manure can also be used. Before application, compost and humus must be mature so as not to burn the roots.

Peat. An excellent mulching material. It is loose, well permeable to air and moisture. Acidic peat is suitable for currants, which prefer slightly acidic soils (pH 6–6.5) (Dan’kov, 2015). However, peat is poor in nutrients, so it is better to use it mixed with humus or compost.

Sawdust and wood chips. An available material, but with important caveats:

• Sawdust (especially from conifers) can acidify the soil. For currants this is not critical, but in large quantities it may require additional liming (Krivko, 2014).
• Fresh sawdust in the process of decomposition "draws" nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, it is advisable to use them mixed with nitrogen fertilisers or with rotted manure.
• The optimal option is sawdust that has lain for 2–3 years.

Mown grass and straw. They retain moisture well and protect against weeds. However, they decompose quickly, and their layer needs to be renewed. Make sure the grass is free of weed seeds.

Inorganic mulch:

• Black polyethylene film. Reliably suppresses weeds and retains moisture. However, it does not decompose, impairs gas exchange, and does not enrich the soil. Moreover, under black film the soil heats up more, which can be useful in spring but harmful in hot summer (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). In amateur gardening, film is more often used for growing strawberries or for propagating cuttings.
• Light‑permeable black film for weed control is used in industrial horticulture, but in amateur gardening, organic matter is more often used.

Rules for Mulching Currants

To get the most benefit from mulching, follow a few simple rules:

1. Application time: The best time is spring, when the soil has already warmed up and is sufficiently moist. Mulch is spread after loosening and fertilising, while the soil is still wet.

2. Layer thickness: An effective layer of organic mulch is 5–10 cm (Hill & Perry, 2011). Too thin a layer does not retain weeds and dries out quickly. Too thick a layer can impede gas exchange and cause bark rotting, especially on heavy soils.

3. The "step‑back" rule: It is important that the mulch does not touch the stems and the base of the bush directly. Around the base of the bush (within a radius of 10–15 cm from the trunk) there should be no mulch. This prevents bark rotting and infection by fungal diseases (Hessayon, 1993).

4. Renewal: Organic mulch decomposes over time. Its layer needs to be renewed annually by adding fresh material.

5. Autumn mulching: In late autumn, with the onset of persistent cold weather, you can add a layer of mulch to insulate the roots and protect against frost. This is especially relevant in regions with little snow in winter.

In conclusion: mulching is not just "decoration" of the soil, but a crucial element of currant cultivation. It saves your time and effort, preserves bush health, and contributes to stable yields. Organic mulch is your best helper.

Types of Supports and Their Features

The choice of design depends on your goals, available space, and number of bushes.

1. Individual stakes (for single bushes):

The simplest option, used to support young or small bushes. In the centre of the bush, or around the perimeter, one or several wooden or metal stakes are installed. The main branches are tied to them so that they do not fall apart. This method is suitable for bush form and does not require large investments.

2. Circular support (for bushes with a spreading crown):

Several stakes (e.g., 3–4) are placed around the bush and connected with wire or twine to form a ring. The bush branches are laid and tied inside this ring, preventing them from falling apart. This is one of the simplest and most effective ways to support spreading bushes.

3. Trellis (for row plantings):

A trellis is a more complex structure consisting of posts and wire stretched between them. It is ideal for a row of bushes planted in a line. Using a trellis gives many advantages:

• Saving space. Bushes can be formed in a narrow vertical plane, which allows more plants to be placed in a limited area.
• Convenience of care. Branches are evenly distributed along the wire, facilitating pruning, pest control, and harvesting.
• Plant health. Excellent ventilation and illumination of all parts of the bush.

How a simple trellis for currants is constructed:

1. Posts. Strong posts (wooden, metal, or reinforced concrete) are installed at the ends of the row, 1.8–2 m high. If the row is long, intermediate posts are placed every 5–8 metres.

2. Wire. Galvanised wire is stretched between the posts in 2–3 rows. Usually, the first row is at a height of 30–40 cm from the ground, the second at 80–100 cm, and the third at 1.3–1.5 m.

3. Tying. The bush branches are carefully tied to the wire, distributing them in a fan shape so that they do not shade each other. Young shoots are directed vertically and fixed on the upper rows of wire.

4. Trellis for standard and fan forms:

For decorative or high‑yield forms, such as standard currant or cordon, a more thorough support system is required. In this case, an individual support (a post with several levels of wire rings) is used, which fixes the central trunk and the formed branches (Bowling, 2000).

Practical recommendations for installing supports:

• Installation time. Supports are best installed in spring, before active growth begins, when buds have not yet opened. This allows you to carefully direct young shoots in the desired direction.
• Materials. For tying, use soft twine, special garden clips, or strips of fabric. Do not use rigid wire, as it can damage branches and cause them to dry out.
• Regular review. As the bushes grow and the load increases (especially during fruiting), check the condition of the supports and ties. Loose ties should be tightened, and branches that have fallen to the ground should be lifted.
• Do not overdo it. Currant is a shrub, not a vine. The main task of supports is not to forcibly change the shape, but to gently guide it in the right direction to ensure access to light and air (Hill & Perry, 2011).

In conclusion: supports and trellises are not mandatory, but an extremely useful element of currant care. They help maintain bush health, simplify care, and improve the quality and accessibility of the harvest. The choice of a specific design depends on your needs, but even simple individual stakes can significantly ease the life of the gardener and the bush.

1. Protection from Spring Frosts

This is perhaps the most serious weather threat to currants. Red and white currants bloom earlier than black currants, often during the period of return frosts (Hessayon, 1993). Currant flowers and young ovaries are damaged already at temperatures of -2...-3 °C (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). Early‑flowering varieties and plants in lowlands where cold air accumulates are especially vulnerable.

Main protection methods:

• Choosing the right location. This is a preventive measure laid down at planting. Avoid lowlands, closed hollows, and areas with poor air drainage. Cold air should flow freely downwards (Bowling, 2000). South and south‑west slopes warm up faster, but flowering there also begins earlier, increasing the risk of frost. In regions with harsh winters, northern and north‑eastern slopes are preferable, where flowering occurs later (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Smoking (smudging). An old but proven method. Piles of wet straw, sawdust, or peat are laid out on the site, which produce thick smoke when burned. The smoke screen creates a "greenhouse effect", retaining heat near the ground surface. Smoking begins a few hours before the expected frost and continues until sunrise. This method is effective for light to moderate frosts but requires careful monitoring (Hessayon, 1993).
• Sprinkling and overhead irrigation. If frost is forecast, a few hours before it the bushes are abundantly sprayed with water or a fine‑spray sprinkler is turned on. When water freezes, it releases heat that protects the flowers from damage. This method is effective for frosts down to -3...-4 °C. However, it is important that the equipment operates all night, otherwise the plants may die (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Covering materials. Non‑woven covering material (spunbond, lutrasil) is a simple and reliable method of protection. It can completely cover the bushes overnight during frosts. The material is light and does not break branches. It is important to remove the cover during the day so as not to interfere with insect pollination.
• Variety selection. As mentioned in previous articles, choose varieties with late flowering (e.g., 'Red Start', 'Stanza') that avoid spring frosts (Bowling, 2000; Buckingham, 2010).

2. Protection from Summer Heat and Drought

Although currants are considered moisture‑loving crops, excessive heat and drought can also cause serious damage, especially in southern regions.

Main problems in hot weather:

• Overheating and leaf scorch. At temperatures above +30 °C and low air humidity, leaves can get sunburn and fall off prematurely (Dan’kov, 2015). Golden currant is more resistant to heat due to its powerful root system and dense leaf cuticle, but it also suffers in extreme conditions.
• Growth stop. In extreme heat, currants stop shoot growth, as all energy is spent on transpiration (evaporation of water through leaves).
• Deterioration of berry quality. With a lack of moisture and intense heat, berries become small, less juicy, and can "bake" in the sun, losing their marketable appearance (Krivko, 2014).

Measures to protect against heat and drought:

• Regular watering. This is the most important thing. Watering should be deep (soak the soil layer to a depth of 30–40 cm) to stimulate the growth of deep roots. In hot weather, watering is done in the evening or early morning to avoid leaf burn (Buckingham, 2010). Important: try not to use sprinkling in extreme heat to avoid provoking sunburn on leaves. Better to water at the root or along furrows.
• Mulching. As discussed, a thick layer of mulch protects the soil from overheating and retains moisture.
• Shading. On the hottest days, young or weakened plants can be given light shade using tarps, nets, or planting tall windbreak crops (e.g., sunflowers or corn). For golden currant, light shading is recommended in southern regions (Krivko, 2014). It is important not to overdo it, as currants are light‑loving plants.
• Foliar spraying. On particularly hot days, it is useful to carry out refreshing sprays of leaves with water in the morning or evening. This lowers the leaf surface temperature and reduces evaporation.
• Variety selection. For regions with hot and dry climates, it is preferable to grow golden currant, which is better adapted to such conditions. For red and white currants, choose drought‑resistant varieties if possible (Krivko, 2014).

3. Protection from Strong Winds

Winds, especially combined with frost or drought, can cause significant damage to currants:

• Drying out of branches. In winter, drying winds can cause desiccation of wood and buds (so‑called "winter desiccation").
• Branch breakage. Strong gusty winds can break branches, especially during fruiting when the bush is heavy.
• Shedding of flowers and ovaries. Winds during flowering can interfere with pollination and lead to shedding of flowers and ovaries.

Measures to protect against winds:

• Protective plantings. The most effective way is to create shelterbelts, hedges, or install shields on the windward side of the plot (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).
• Supports and trellises. As discussed in the previous chapter, supports help prevent branch breakage under the weight of the crop and gusts of wind.
• Crown shaping. Timely pruning aimed at forming a strong bush skeleton also reduces the risk of damage.
• Site selection. Places protected from prevailing winds (e.g., on the south side of buildings) are more preferable for planting currants (Buckingham, 2010).

Thus, protection from adverse weather factors is a set of preventive measures and operational actions. The right choice of location, variety, timely watering, and the use of covers will help you minimise risks and obtain a stable harvest even in difficult climatic conditions.

Common Mistakes in Currant Care

1. Deep cultivation of soil in the near‑stem circle

Mistake: Digging or deep loosening of the soil directly under the bush, especially with a spade.

Consequences: Damage to the shallow root system, which in red and white currants lies at a depth of 10–40 cm (Dan’kov, 2015). This leads to weakening of the plant, reduced yield, and even death of the bush.

Correct solution: Loosen the soil in the near‑stem circle to a depth of no more than 6–8 cm (Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012). Use flat cutters or small hoes. In the row‑spacings, deeper cultivation can be done — up to 10–15 cm.

2. Insufficient or untimely watering

Mistake: Superficial watering or infrequent watering during drought, especially during berry filling.

Consequences: Berries become small, sour, and lose juiciness. In severe drought, the plant may drop part of the ovary or even leaves (Dan’kov, 2015).

Correct solution: Water abundantly and deeply, soaking the soil layer to a depth of 30–40 cm. In dry periods, water 1–2 times a week (Buckingham, 2010). The greatest need for moisture is during the period of shoot growth and berry filling (Bowling, 2000).

3. Neglecting mulching

Mistake: Refusing to mulch or using too thin a layer of mulch.

Consequences: The soil dries out, overheats, a crust forms, and weeds grow actively. Roots suffer from lack of moisture and air (Hill & Perry, 2011).

Correct solution: Every year in spring and autumn, lay a layer of organic mulch (humus, compost, peat, sawdust) 5–10 cm thick, stepping back 10–15 cm from the base of the bush to avoid bark rotting (Hessayon, 1993).

4. Incorrect or untimely pruning

Mistake: Ignoring pruning, too severe shortening of young growth, or removing the wrong branches.

Consequences: Bush thickening, reduced yield, smaller berries, disease development. In red and white currants, fruiting is concentrated on 2–4‑year‑old wood; old branches (older than 6–8 years) must be removed (Tarasov, 1981).

Correct solution: Carry out annual pruning in early spring, before buds open. Remove all branches older than 6–8 years for red and white currants, and older than 7–10 years for golden currant. Replace them with 3–4 strong zero (basal) shoots (Krivko, 2014). Do not shorten young growth on red and white currants — it is on them that fruit buds will be laid.

5. Incorrect fertiliser application

Mistake: Applying nitrogen fertilisers in the second half of summer or in autumn, as well as a lack of potassium and phosphorus.

Consequences: Nitrogen stimulates shoot growth that does not have time to ripen before winter and freezes. Lack of potassium and phosphorus reduces winter hardiness and yield (Dan’kov, 2015; Krivko, 2014).

Correct solution: Nitrogen fertilisers should be applied only in spring and the first half of summer. Phosphorus‑potassium fertilisers — in autumn (under digging) or early spring. Every year, apply 1–2 buckets of organic matter (humus, compost) and mineral fertilisers under an adult bush, according to recommendations.

6. Ignoring moisture‑charging irrigation and root protection in winter

Mistake: Refusing autumn watering and mulching of the near‑stem circles.

Consequences: Freezing of the root system in a low‑snow winter, drying of shoots in early spring, weakening of the plant, and reduced yield (Hessayon, 1993; Trunov & Samoshchenkov, 2012).

Correct solution: In late September – October, carry out abundant watering (30–50 litres per bush). Mulch the near‑stem circle with a thick layer of peat, humus, or dry leaves (but not from fruit trees). In regions with severe winters, carry out snow retention.

7. Planting in lowlands or in areas with stagnant water

Mistake: Choosing a place with poor air drainage, where cold air and water stagnate.

Consequences: Damage to flowers by spring frosts, root rot during prolonged rains, development of fungal diseases (Bowling, 2000; Dan’kov, 2015).

Correct solution: Choose level areas or gentle slopes where cold air and water do not stagnate. Ensure good soil drainage.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Question 1: Do I need to cover currant bushes for the winter?

Answer: Red, white, and golden currants are winter‑hardy plants that can withstand frosts down to -30...-35 °C (Bowling, 2000; Dan’kov, 2015). Covering the above‑ground part is not required. However, to protect the root system in low‑snow and severe winters, it is recommended to mulch the near‑stem circles with peat, humus, or other organic materials in a layer of 8–10 cm. Young saplings in the first 1–2 years after planting can be additionally covered with spruce branches or non‑woven material to protect against freezing.

Question 2: How does care for red and white currants differ from care for black currants?

Answer: The main differences are related to fruiting and root system features.

• Pruning: In red and white currants, fruiting is concentrated on perennial fruit spurs and 2–4‑year‑old wood, so old branches (older than 6–8 years) are removed, but young growth is not shortened (Tarasov, 1981). In black currants, the crop is formed on annual growth, so its branches are shorter‑lived (3–4 years) and are rejuvenated more often.
• Root system: Red currant roots are more powerful and go deeper than those of black currant, making it more drought‑resistant (Dan’kov, 2015).
• Propagation: Red and white currants root less readily from cuttings than black currants, so they are more often propagated by layering.

Question 3: How often should currants be watered?

Answer: The frequency of watering depends on the weather and soil type. In dry weather, adult bushes are watered 1–2 times a week, using 30–50 litres of water per bush (Buckingham, 2010). Watering is especially important during the period of shoot growth (late May – June), berry filling (July), and after harvest (August). In autumn, before the onset of frost, moisture‑charging irrigation is carried out (30–50 litres per bush) (Hessayon, 1993).

Question 4: Which currant varieties are best for my region?

Answer: The choice of varieties depends on climatic conditions.

• For cold regions (Siberia, North‑West): Winter‑hardy red currant varieties are recommended: 'Dutch Red', 'Pervenets', 'Jonker van Tets' (Dan’kov, 2015). Of white currants — 'Juterborg', 'Versailles White'. Golden currant is also well adapted to Siberian conditions — varieties 'Barnaulskaya', 'Valentina', 'Dar Altaya' (Krivko, 2014).
• For southern regions (hot and dry climate): Golden currant is the best choice. Varieties: 'Venus', 'Lyaysan', 'Shafak', 'Isabella' (Krivko, 2014). Of red currants, choose drought‑resistant varieties, e.g., 'Kubanets' (for southern Russia, although this is rather a gooseberry variety, but the selection principle is similar — look for regionalised varieties).

Question 5: Why does a currant bush not bear fruit or produce few berries?

Answer: There can be several reasons:

1. Too old or incorrectly pruned wood. In red and white currants, 2–4‑year‑old branches bear fruit; old branches (older than 6–8 years) must be cut out (Tarasov, 1981).

2. Lack of light. Currants are light‑loving plants. In dense shade, they bear fruit poorly.

3. Lack of moisture or nutrients. This is especially felt during the formation of ovaries and berry filling (Dan’kov, 2015).

4. Damage to flowers by spring frosts. This is a common reason for the lack of harvest in early‑flowering varieties (Hessayon, 1993).

5. Diseases and pests. For example, infestation by the currant bud mite or powdery mildew weakens the plant and reduces yield.

Question 6: Can currants be grown in standard form, and what are the advantages?

Answer: Yes, it is possible. This is a decorative and practical way of growing, especially popular in Europe (Bowling, 2000). The standard form is a small tree with a crown at a height of 60–80 cm from the ground. Advantages:

• Convenient harvesting.
• Good crown ventilation, which reduces the risk of disease.
• Decorative, can be used in landscape design.
• Space saving, as the crown is compact.

Disadvantage: requires more careful care and protection from frost. To obtain a standard form, grafting onto golden currant is used, or the plant is formed with a single central leader (Krivko, 2014; Hill & Perry, 2011).

Question 7: What should I do if the soil on the plot is very acidic?

Answer: Red and white currants prefer slightly acidic soils with pH 6–6.5. If the soil is acidic (pH < 5.5), it is recommended to carry out liming (apply dolomite flour, lime) (Dan’kov, 2015). This improves the availability of nutrients and has a positive effect on growth and fruiting. However, remember that golden currant can grow on more acidic soils, although neutral pH is also optimal for it (Krivko, 2014).

Question 8: Should I remove root suckers from currants?

Answer: In red and white currants, suckers form less than in black currants, but they still appear. They should be regularly removed so that the bush does not thicken and waste energy on excess shoots (Bowling, 2000). To replace old branches, leave only the strongest zero shoots (3–4 per year), and remove the rest (Tarasov, 1981).

Conclusion

Caring for red, white, and golden currants does not require colossal efforts, but it does require consistency and an understanding of plant biology. Regular loosening, mulching, proper watering, timely pruning, and protection from adverse factors — these are the simple but mandatory steps that will lead you to stable and abundant harvests. Remember that a healthy, well‑groomed bush is not only a guarantee of tasty berries, but also a decoration of your garden for many years.