Red, White, and Golden Currants: Site Selection and Soil Preparation

Where currants can be grown

Red, white, and golden currants are surprisingly adaptable crops that can grow in various conditions, but for stable and high yields, follow these recommendations:

1. Sunlight and topography. For red and white currants, choose the sunniest spots on your plot. These shrubs are very light‑demanding (Krivko, 2014). Golden currant also prefers full sun, but is more tolerant of light shade, especially in hot regions (Hill & Perry, 2011).

• On flat land, well‑lit sites are best.
• On slopes, in cold and temperate regions, prefer southern, south‑western, or western exposures for better warming; in hot southern regions, northern slopes protect against overheating and desiccation (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Although red and white currants are among the few fruit crops that tolerate some shade, do not plant them in dense shade. There they may yield less, with smaller and tarter berries (Buckingham, 2010).

2. Wind and frost protection. Currants, especially during flowering, are sensitive to cold winds and frosts. An ideal spot is sheltered from the north or northeast by buildings, fences, or dense shrubs. However, the fence should not be a solid wall that impedes air circulation, as that can promote fungal diseases (Bowling, 2000).

• Avoid hollows and depressions where cold air stagnates. These are "frost pockets" where plants are more likely to suffer from spring frosts and winter heaving (Bowling, 2000; Buckingham, 2010).
• Red currant is more frost‑resistant during flowering than black currant, but its flowers can still be damaged in hollows (Buckingham, 2010).
• Golden currant flowers are highly frost‑resistant, tolerating temperatures down to –4…–6 °C (Krivko, 2014).

3. Water table. This is a critical parameter, especially for red and white currants. They cannot tolerate standing water around their roots.

• The water table should be no higher than 1.5 m below the soil surface (Krivko, 2014; Dankov, 2015).
• For golden currant, this condition is less strict, but it also dislikes prolonged waterlogging. If the water table is too high (above 0.8 m), plant on raised beds or mounds 30–50 cm high (Krivko, 2014).

Where planting is not advisable

To avoid disappointment, do not choose the following sites for currants:

• Low spots with stagnant cold air and meltwater. This leads to bud and bark damage, disease, and plant death (Buckingham, 2010).
• Heavy clay soils prone to slaking and waterlogging. Roots suffer from oxygen deficiency and rot easily.
• Very poor sandy soils. They dry out quickly and do not retain nutrients. Currants will languish.
• Acid soils (pH below 5.5). Plants cannot absorb nutrients well, develop chlorosis, and become more susceptible to disease (Cornell Guide, 2003).
• Sites with a high water table. For red and white currants, this is almost certain death within a few years.
• Sites where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, or other nightshades were previously grown. They can leave behind diseases like verticillium wilt, to which currants are sensitive (Krivko, 2014). Also, avoid planting currants after raspberries or gooseberries due to shared pests and diseases that deplete the soil (Krivko, 2014; Hill & Perry, 2011).

Typical site‑selection mistakes

Amateur gardeners often make these mistakes:

1. Planting in the shade of trees or buildings. This is the most common error. Gardeners think "currants grow well in forests," forgetting that cultivated plants need much more sun for abundant fruiting. The result is green but barren growth.

2. Planting in a low‑lying "free" spot. Often the only free space is in a hollow where cold air and water collect. Currants, especially red, produce little there and often winter‑kill.

3. Ignoring the water table. Gardeners do not check the water table, especially in spring, and plant where roots will be submerged in water within a month. This causes rotting and death.

4. Planting on acid soils. In regions with acid soils (e.g., podzols), gardeners often skip liming, making nutrients like phosphorus and calcium unavailable and stunting plants.

5. Choosing a variety not adapted to the local climate. For example, planting insufficiently winter‑hardy red currants in harsh Siberia, or varieties requiring winter chill in the south (more relevant for apples, but still important for currant fruiting). In southern arid regions, golden currant is a better choice than black or red, which can suffer greatly from heat and dry air (Bowling, 2000). Golden currant also suits saline soils and dry climates (Krivko, 2014).

What are predecessors and why are they important?

A predecessor is the crop that occupied the site in the previous season or years. Proper crop rotation allows:

• Avoiding the build‑up of pests and diseases. Many pests and diseases specialise in particular plant families. If you plant currants after crops of the same family (e.g., gooseberries), pathogens accumulate.
• Rational use of nutrients. Different plants extract different nutrients from the soil. Rotating crops with different root systems and needs helps maintain fertility.
• Improving soil structure. Plants with strong root systems, like perennial grasses, loosen the soil and enrich it with organic matter (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Good predecessors for currants

The best predecessors for red, white, and golden currants are crops that improve soil health and enrich it with organic matter:

• Perennial legumes (clover, alfalfa, sweet clover). These are ideal. Their strong root systems improve soil structure, and nodule bacteria enrich it with available nitrogen. After such crops, the soil becomes loose, fertile, and clean of weeds (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Krivko, 2014).
• Green manure crops (rye, oats, mustard, phacelia). Grown as green fertilisers. Ploughing them in improves soil structure, increases organic matter, and suppresses weeds (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Winter rye is especially good for pre‑planting preparation because it suppresses weeds well and enriches soil with organic matter.
• Bare fallow. A plot kept free of plants during the season with regular tillage. This effectively controls weeds, accumulates moisture, and promotes mineralisation of organic matter (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Vegetable crops (except nightshades). Crops like carrots, beetroot, early potatoes, cabbage, onions, garlic, and dill are acceptable. They do not share major diseases with currants and do not greatly deplete the soil.

Bad predecessors

It is strongly inadvisable to plant currants after the following:

• Currants (especially black) and gooseberries. These belong to the same family (Grossulariaceae). They share diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose) and pests (bud mite, currant borer) that accumulate in soil and plant debris (Bowling, 2000; Krivko, 2014). Replanting currants on an old site after grubbing up old plantations is possible only after 3–4 years.
• Nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, tobacco). These crops are very susceptible to verticillium wilt and nematodes, which also attack currants (Krivko, 2014; Kurennoi et al., 1985). Nematodes are especially dangerous as they can persist in soil for several years.
• Raspberries. Although raspberries and currants belong to different families, they share pests such as the raspberry‑strawberry weevil and diseases like grey mould Botrytis (Hill & Perry, 2011). Raspberries also deplete the soil and leave many root suckers.
• Crops that heavily exhaust the soil. For example, sunflower and maize, which extract huge amounts of nutrients.

Allelopathy and neighbouring crops

Allelopathy is the ability of plants to release chemicals into the environment (soil, air) that can inhibit or stimulate the growth of neighbouring plants. This factor is also relevant for currants.

Good neighbours for currants:

• Onions and garlic. Their phytoncides repel many pests, especially the bud mite.
• Dill, calendula, marigolds. These attract beneficial insects (entomophages) that help control aphids and other pests.
• Honeysuckle (edible). These shrubs coexist well, having different requirements and not competing strongly for resources.
• Perennial grasses. As a background or for inter‑row sodding, many grasses and legumes are acceptable, as they do not inhibit currants and help prevent erosion.

Bad neighbours:

• Black currant. Although related, black and red currants have different moisture needs and can compete strongly. They also share diseases, and close proximity increases the risk of spreading, for example, reversion virus from black to red currants.
• Gooseberries. Neighbouring gooseberries, especially when shared diseases like American powdery mildew are present, is undesirable. Their thorny bushes also hamper currant care.
• Trees with strong root systems (birch, maple, walnut). Their roots compete for water and nutrients, and their canopy creates shade. Walnut is especially dangerous as it releases juglone, a toxic substance that suppresses many plants (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Strawberries. They share a common pest – the strawberry mite – and some diseases (e.g., grey mould), so close planting is not recommended (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Important: When planning plantings, maintain spatial isolation. The distance between currants and potentially dangerous neighbours (trees, fences, other shrubs) should be at least 1.5–2 m to avoid competition for light and nutrients, and to ensure good air circulation, which prevents fungal diseases (Bowling, 2000).

Ideal soil profile

For red, white, and golden currants, the most suitable soils are fertile, loose soils with good air and water permeability (Krivko, 2014). Key characteristics:

1. Texture. Best are light and medium loams, and sandy loams. They have an optimal balance of sand and clay, providing good water‑holding capacity, aeration, and nutrient retention (Bowling, 2000; Kurennoi et al., 1985). Golden currant can tolerate lighter soils, but also prefers fertile loams.

2. Water and air regime. The soil should be well‑drained, not waterlogged or overly dry. Optimal moisture in the root zone (30–40 cm for red and golden, 20–30 cm for white) should be maintained at 70–80% of field capacity (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Waterlogging is as harmful as drought. The soil must be loose so roots can breathe and develop freely.

3. Fertility and organic matter content. All currants, especially red and white, need high humus content. Organic matter improves soil structure, increases water‑holding capacity, and supplies nutrients (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Ideal humus content is at least 2–3%. To achieve this, regularly add organic fertilisers (manure, compost, humus).

4. Acidity (pH). Optimal pH for all currants is slightly acidic to neutral: pH 6.0–6.5 (Bowling, 2000; Cornell Guide, 2003). On acid soils (pH below 5.5), plants suffer; availability of phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and magnesium decreases, leading to chlorosis and stunted growth. Very acid soils require liming (adding lime, dolomite, or ash).

How to assess soil condition yourself

Not every gardener can afford laboratory analysis, but you can evaluate soil visually and with simple methods.

1. Determining texture (by feel):

• Sandy loam: a moist ball crumbles easily. Sand feels gritty. Water drains quickly, soil dries out.
• Loam: a moist ball forms but is not very plastic. When rubbed, it feels like fine dust. It holds moisture and nutrients well.
• Clay: a moist ball is very plastic, easily moulded like plasticine. It drains poorly and forms a crust after rain.

2. Assessing drainage and moisture:

• Dig a hole 20–30 cm deep. If water appears at the bottom within an hour, the water table is too high.
• Take a handful of soil from the top 10–15 cm. Squeeze it. If it crumbles when opened – it is dry. If it holds its shape – moisture is good. If water oozes out – it is waterlogged.

3. Determining acidity (simple methods):

• By weeds. Acid soils favour: field horsetail, field mint, plantain, creeping buttercup, sorrel, and horse sorrel. Neutral to slightly alkaline soils favour: nettle, goosefoot, clover, coltsfoot, and couch grass.
• With litmus paper. This is the easiest and most accessible. Garden centres and pet shops sell pH test kits. Mix a soil sample with distilled water, dip the paper, and compare with the colour chart.
• With vinegar. Drop vinegar onto a handful of soil. If it fizzes and bubbles – the soil is neutral or alkaline. No reaction – acidic. This gives only a rough estimate.

4. Assessing organic matter:

• Note the soil colour. Dark (almost black) indicates high humus. Light (grey, brown) indicates low organic matter.
• Count earthworms. More worms mean better structured and more fertile soil; it also indicates good aeration (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

5. Checking salinity (for southern regions):

• Visually: white salt crusts on the surface indicate salinity. Saline areas often have sparse, stunted vegetation.
• Golden currant is more tolerant of salinity than red and white, but strong salinity harms all.

What to do when deficiencies are found?

Based on your diagnosis, you can correct soil conditions:

• Acid soils (pH < 5.5). Apply dolomite lime or slaked lime 1–2 years before planting under the preceding crop, or in autumn before autumn digging. Rates depend on acidity but average 300–500 g/m².
• Sandy soils. Add plenty of organic matter (up to 5–7 kg/m²) to increase water‑holding capacity. On heavy clay, add sand (1 bucket/m²) and organic matter to improve drainage.
• Poor soils. Definitely add organic and mineral fertilisers during site preparation (see section 5).
• Waterlogged areas. Install drainage ditches or create raised beds 30–50 cm high.

When to start preparation?

The ideal is to start preparing the soil 1–2 years before planting. This approach allows you to effectively fix all problems identified during diagnosis: improve soil structure, adjust acidity, incorporate organic matter, and clear weeds (Kurennoi et al., 1985). If time is short, you can prepare 3–4 months before planting (Krivko, 2014), but then more intensive methods will be needed.

Steps of soil preparation

1. Clearing the site and weed control.

This is a mandatory first step, especially if the site was neglected or overrun by perennial weeds like couch grass, sow thistle, or bindweed. These weeds can literally choke young plantings, stealing moisture and nutrients.

• Mechanical method. Thorough digging with careful removal of rhizomes. Laborious but effective, especially on small plots. Couch grass rhizomes must be removed as completely as possible.
• Chemical method. More effective for large areas. 2–3 weeks before planned digging, treat the plot with a non‑selective herbicide, e.g., Roundup (glyphosate). Apply when weeds are actively growing. After 10–15 days the weeds die completely; they can then be ploughed in or burned (Krivko, 2014; Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Fallow treatment. If possible, keep the plot as bare fallow for a season. Through the summer, periodically dig or cultivate it, destroying emerging weeds. This significantly reduces the weed seed bank.

2. Improving soil structure.

Depending on texture, soil should be optimised:

• For sandy soils. Add large amounts of organic matter: well‑rotted manure, compost, or peat (not acidic!) at 4–6 kg/m². Organic matter binds sand particles, increasing water‑holding capacity and fertility (Bowling, 2000).
• For clay soils. They are heavy, poorly drained, and poorly aerated. Add sand (1–2 buckets/m²) and plenty of organic matter (3–5 kg/m²). Sand and organic matter make clay soil more friable and permeable (Krivko, 2014).
• For loams. This is the best option. Even loams need regular organic additions to maintain fertility.

3. Adjusting acidity (liming).

If your soil is acid (pH below 5.5), it must be limed.

• Applying lime or dolomite flour. Dolomite is preferable because it also supplies magnesium. Rates depend on initial acidity: on strongly acid soils (pH 4.5) apply 500–600 g/m²; on moderately acid (pH 5.0–5.5) – 300–400 g/m².
• Important! Lime 1–2 years before planting, preferably under the preceding crop. Do not apply lime together with organic or phosphorus fertilisers, as it reacts and makes nutrients unavailable (Cornell Guide, 2003). Dolomite can be applied in autumn under digging.
• Ash. A good mild alkaliser, but less effective than dolomite. Ash can be applied in spring, but it is not as potent.

4. Applying fertilisers (base dressing).

This is the most important preparation step, providing bushes with nutrients for the first 3–4 years.

• Organic fertilisers. Apply in large amounts: 4–6 kg of well‑rotted manure or compost per m² (Bowling, 2000; Krivko, 2014). Organics improve soil structure, feed plants, and activate soil microflora.
• Mineral fertilisers. Apply together with organics or separately. Per m² apply (Kurennoi et al., 1985; Krivko, 2014): phosphorus (superphosphate) – 20–30 g, potassium (potassium sulphate, kalimagnesia) – 15–20 g, nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, urea) – 10–15 g.
• Important! Do not use fertilisers containing chlorine (e.g., potassium chloride), as currants are very sensitive to chlorine, which can burn roots and leaves (Bowling, 2000; Hill & Perry, 2011). Use potassium sulphate.

5. Deep digging (ploughing).

After applying all amendments and liming agents, dig the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm (Kurennoi et al., 1985). For red and golden currants, whose roots penetrate deeper (up to 1.5–2 m), deep digging is especially important (Krivko, 2014). During digging, all added materials are evenly mixed with the soil. Fertiliser and organic matter should be incorporated to the depth where most roots will grow. For this, use a plough with a subsoiler (on heavy soils) or perform two‑tier digging.

6. Levelling and final preparation.

After digging, level the site thoroughly to avoid water stagnation and ensure uniform planting. Use rakes or levelling devices (on large areas – a drag harrow). The site should be free of large clods and plant residues.

7. Preparing planting holes.

Dig holes just before planting, but preferably 2–3 weeks earlier so the soil settles. Hole size: 40–50 cm in diameter and depth. This is enough to accommodate the seedling’s roots (Kurennoi et al., 1985). Put the top fertile layer aside and the subsoil separately. Then mix the topsoil with humus (1–2 buckets) and mineral fertilisers (superphosphate – 100–150 g, potassium sulphate – 40–50 g). Mix well and fill the bottom of the hole with this mixture.

Important nuances for different species

• For golden currant. Since it is more drought‑tolerant, deep digging (25–30 cm) and large amounts of organic matter are not strictly necessary. However, on poor sandy soils it will still appreciate organic fertilisers (Krivko, 2014).
• For red and white currants. On heavy, poorly drained soils, definitely add sand. If the water table is high, plant on raised beds 30–40 cm high.

Typical mistakes in soil preparation

1. Planting in unprepared soil.

• Mistake: Gardeners dig a hole, put in the seedling, and simply backfill with the same soil removed.
• Consequences: The bush takes a long time to establish, grows poorly, and yields little. The root system cannot penetrate dense, poor soil.
• Correct: Carry out full site preparation according to the recommendations in section 5: weed removal, structure improvement, liming, adding organic and mineral fertilisers, followed by deep digging (Bowling, 2000; Krivko, 2014).

2. Planting in fresh manure or immature compost.

• Mistake: Adding fresh manure or unfinished compost to the planting hole.
• Consequences: Fresh organics decompose releasing ammonia and heat, burning tender roots. The plant may die (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Correct: Use only well‑rotted manure (2–3 years old) or fully matured compost. Add organics during overall digging or in the hole, but only mixed with soil and not in direct contact with roots.

3. Ignoring soil acidity.

• Mistake: Planting currants on acid soil without prior liming.
• Consequences: Plants suffer calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium deficiencies. Leaves yellow (chlorosis), bushes grow weakly, yields are low, berries small and tart. Susceptibility to diseases increases (Cornell Guide, 2003).
• Correct: Always test the soil and if needed, add lime or dolomite 1–2 years before planting (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

4. Planting the seedling too deep.

• Mistake: Burying the root collar too deep. Some think deeper is better.
• Consequences: The root collar rots, the seedling develops poorly, may die. This is especially critical for red currant (Hill & Perry, 2011).
• Correct: Plant at the same depth as in the nursery (or 5–7 cm deeper for black currant to encourage basal shoots). The root collar should be at soil level or slightly above (Bowling, 2000). For red and white currants, it is optimal to plant at the same depth they grew before.

5. No drainage on heavy soils.

• Mistake: Planting on clayey, waterlogged sites without improving drainage.
• Consequences: Standing water around roots causes rotting, root rot, and plant death (Buckingham, 2010).
• Correct: On heavy soils, add coarse river sand to the planting hole, and place a drainage layer (broken brick, gravel) at the bottom. If the site is permanently waterlogged, create raised beds or plant on mounds (Bowling, 2000; Krivko, 2014).

6. Planting at the wrong time of year.

• Mistake: Planting late autumn during frosts, or in spring when the soil is still cold.
• Consequences: The seedling does not root before frost and dies, or suffers badly from late spring planting (Kurennoi et al., 1985).
• Correct: The best time is early autumn (late September – mid‑October) for southern regions, and early spring for northern regions. In autumn, the seedling establishes before winter.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: Can I plant red currant next to black currant?

A: Yes, but with caution. They have different moisture needs (black currant is more moisture‑loving). They also share some diseases, e.g., reversion virus can spread from black to red. It is better to place them at least 2–3 m apart and monitor plant health (Hill & Perry, 2011).

Q2: What soil does red currant prefer most?

A: Light to medium loams with good drainage, rich in organic matter, with neutral to slightly acidic pH (6.0–6.5). It does not tolerate heavy clay with standing water, nor poor sandy soils (Bowling, 2000; Krivko, 2014).

Q3: Why is deep digging necessary before planting?

A: Deep digging creates a thick root‑zone layer. Red and golden currant roots penetrate to 2 m, so loose, fertile soil to 25–30 cm depth allows them to develop quickly and access nutrients. This ensures rapid growth and abundant fruiting (Kurennoi et al., 1985).

Q4: What if I have a small plot and no room for crop rotation?

A: In that case, it is essential to apply sufficient organic fertilisers (compost, manure) annually, and rotate crops even within a single bed. Also, perform autumn digging with fertiliser addition and keep the soil loose. If soil is greatly depleted, use green manures to restore health (Cornell Guide, 2003).

Q5: Can I skip soil testing?

A: Ideally, no. Simple tests (e.g., pH paper) give acidity data, and visual inspection gives texture. This helps avoid common errors. However, if you can afford a professional agrochemical analysis, it will give precise nutrient data for accurate correction (Bowling, 2000).

Q6: What if the water table is too high?

A: It is not an absolute barrier. The solution is to plant on artificial raised beds or mounds 30–50 cm high. Also, place drainage in the hole and a layer of sand or gravel on the bed bottom to divert water from roots (Bowling, 2000; Hill & Perry, 2011).

Q7: Should I add ash when planting?

A: Ash is an excellent fertiliser containing potassium, calcium, and trace elements. It also reduces acidity. However, ash does not replace full organic and mineral fertilisation. You can add small amounts (200–300 g per hole), mixed thoroughly with soil, but ash should not contact roots directly (Hill & Perry, 2011).